2.  ,5.  8".  / 


^^^    .. X 


PRINCETON,  N.  J. 


'^ 


RV    3705     .M7    A3    1851 
Mn^ter      W.    1808-1891. 

TH   Africa   and   the 


Memon 
labours 


EUGENE     L. 


Oriental  &  Afrk 


39,     MUSEUII 


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MIEY^  WJr..U.MJir  MOTBTER, 


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MEMOEIALS 

OP  ^^' 

MISSIONARY  LABOURS 

IK 

WESTERN  AERICA,  THE  WEST  INDIES, 

AKD  AT  THE 

CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE : 


WITH  HISTORia^L  AND  DESCRIPTIVE  OBSERVATIONS,  ILLUSTRATIVE  OF 

NATURAL  SCENERY,  THE  PROGRESS  OF  CMLIZATION,  AND  THE 

GENER.VL  RESULTS  OF  THE  MISSIONARY  ENTERPRISE. 


¥< 


WILLIAM  MOISTEE, 


NEARLY  THIHTY  YEARS  A  MISSIONARY  TO  THOSE  COUNTHIES,  AND  LATE  GENERAL 

SUPERINTENDENT   OF  WESLEYAN   MISSIONS  IN  THE  CAPE  OV 

GOOD  HOPE  DISTRICT. 


THIRD  EDITION,  REVISED  AND  ENLARGED. 
WITH  A  PORTRAIT  OF  THE  AUTHOR. 


LOI^DON^  : 
SOLD  AT  66,  PATERNOSTER  ROW; 

AI^D   BY   ALL   BOOKSELLEES, 

1866. 


LONDON : 

PBINTED   BY  WILLIAM   NICHOLS^ 

46,  HOXTON  SQUARE. 


TO 

THE  REV.  ELIJAH  HOOLE,  D.D., 

FORMERLY   A   ZEALOUS,   LABORIOUS,  AND  SUCCESSFUL 

MISSIONARY   IN   INDIA, 

AND     NOW 

THE    SENIOR   SECRETARY  OF  THE   WESLEY  AN -METHODIST 

MISSIONARY     SOCIETY, 

THIS  VOLUME 

BY  THE  AUTHOR, 

IN   ADMIRATION   OF  HIS  LONG-CONTINUED,  ABLE, 

AND     FAITHFUL    SERVICES    AT    HOME    AND    ABROAD, 

AND   ALSO 

IN    GRATEFUL  REMEMBRANCE  OF  AGREEABLE   FRIENDLY 

AND   OFFICIAL   INTERCOURSE   DURING  A  PERIOD 

OF  MORE   THAN   THIRTY-FIVE   YEARS. 


High  on  a  rock,  in  solitary  state, 
Sublimely  musing,  pale  Britannia  sate ; 
Her  awful  forehead  on  her  spear  reclined, 
Her  robe  and  tresses  streaming  with  the  wind  ; 
ChiU  through  her  frame  foreboding  tremors  crept ! 
The  mother  thought  upon  her  sons,  and  wept ; 
***** 

Shame  flush'd  her  noble  cheek,  her  bosom  burn'd, 
To  helpless,  hopeless  Africa  she  tui-n'd ; 
She  saw  her  sister  in  the  mom-ner's  face, 
And  rush'd  with  tears  into  her  dark  embrace ; 
"  All  hail !  "  exclaim 'd  the  empress  of  the  sea, 
"  Thy  chains  are  broken,— Africa,  be  free  ! ' 

MONiaOMEEY. 


PREFACE 


Notwithstanding  the  frequency  with  which  a  similar 
apology  has  been  made  for  appearing  in  print,  the  author  of 
the  following  pages  may  be  allowed  to  say  that  they  have  been 
committed  to  the  press  in  deference  to  the  olt-expressed  opinion  of 
his  friends,  that  he  might  further  serve  the  cause  of  Christian  Mis- 
sions, by  the  publication  of  a  complete  narrative  of  his  personal 
labours  in  foreign  lands,  with  some  account  of  the  respective 
countries  where  he  had  been  called  to  sojourn.  The  general 
favour  with  which  his  "  Memorials  "  were  received,  a  few  years 
ago,  both  in  England  and  in  America,  as  well  as  in  several  of 
the  British  Colonies,  has,  moreover,  encouraged  him  to  proceed 
with  the  present  volume,  on  which  he  has  been  engaged 
since  the  failure  of  his  health  obliged  him  once  more  to  return 
to  his  native  land. 

Although  this  is  called  a  third  edition  of  the  Missionary 
Memorials,  it  is  substantially  a  ne^c  work;  the  whole  having  been 
rewritten  and  greatly  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  many  items 
of  information  with  reference  to  the  history  of  slavery  and  the 
slave  trade,  the  results  of  emancipation,  the  geography  and 
natural  scenery  of  Africa  and  the  "West  Indies,  as  well  as  by  a 
continuation  of  the  personal  narrative  during  the  author's  ten 
year's  Mission  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

The  writer  has  not  hesitated  to  avail  himself  of  every  acces- 
sible source  of  information,  with  a  view  to  test  the  facts,  inci- 
dents, and  dates  with  which  he  has  had  to  deal,  and  to  render 
the  historical  sketches  as  accurate  and  interesting  as  possible.  It 
would  have  been  exceedingly  inconvenient  to  make  a  separate  re- 
ference to  every  work  to  which  he  has  been  indebted;  but  he  desires 
to  express  his  general  obligation  for  the  information  which  he 
has  received  by  the  perusal  of  the  missionary  publications  of 


-Vl  PREFACE. 

the  following  esteemed  brethren  and  fellow-labourers  in  the 
Lord's  vineyard : — Eevs.  William  Shaw,  President  of  the 
Conference  for  the  current  year,  Barnabas  Shaw,  Thornley 
Smith,  William  C.  Holden,  John  Morgan,  W^illiam  Fox, 
Peter  Samuel,  Bichard  Sergeant,  and  Dr.  Horsford.  He 
wishes  also  to  express  his  grateful  acknowledgment  to  other 
friends  and  brethren  who  have  kindly  furnished  him  with  valu- 
able information  and  suggestions  by  letter,  especially  to  the 
Eevs.  William  D.  Goy,  George  Eanyell,  John  Mann,  James 
Bickford,  and  Benjamin  Eidsdale.  In  a  work  embracing  such  a 
"wide  range  of  topics,  and  such  a  number  of  statistics,  dates,  and 
proper  names  of  places  and  persons,  it  will  not  be  surprising  if 
some  errors  or  omissions  should  be  found  to  have  escaped  detec- 
tion, especially  as  it  has  required  a  constant  aim  at  compres- 
sion to  keep  the  work  within  the  limits  of  a  portable  volume. 
Should  any  thing  of  the  kind  be  discovered  by  his  friends,  the 
author  would  feel  obliged  by  its  being  pointed  out  to  him,  with 
a  view  to  correction,  in  the  event  of  a  future  edition. 

The  preparation  of  this  work  for  the  press  has  indeed  been 
a  "  labour  of  love ; "  and  often  has  the  heart  of  the  writer 
thrilled  with  emotion,  and  overflowed  with  gratitude  to  God, 
whilst  reviewing  the  way  in  w^hich  the  Lord  has  led  him  these 
many  years  in  the  wilderness,  and  whilst  marking  once  more 
the  many  interpositions  of  Divine  Providence  w^hich  he  has 
experienced. 

Should  the  perusal  of  these  Memorials  tend  to  increase  the 
reader's  sympathy,  love,  zeal,  and  benevolence  in  the  cause  of 
Christian  Missions,  the  design  of  the  author  w^ill  be  answered^ 
^nd  God  alone  shall  have  all  the  praise.  W^.  M, 

Elm  Grove,  Newport, 
Isle  of  Wight,  March  IQth,  IS 66. 


&m\Unh. 


PAET  I. 

WESTEEN  AFEICA. 

CHAPTEE  I.  Page 

The  Character  of  the  Country    1 

CHAPTEE  II. 
The  native  Population 22 

CHAPTEE  III. 

African  Slavery  and  the  Slave  Trade 48 

CHAPTEE  IV. 

European  and  American  Settlements 70' 

CHAPTEE  V. 

English  Settlements  and  Missions  87 

CHAPTEE  VI. 
Commencement  of  Personal  Labours  118 

CHAPTEE  YII. 
First  Voyage  up  the  G-ambia 142 

CHAPTEE  Vni. 
Second  Voyage  up  the  Gambia 160 

CHAPTEE  IX. 

Third  Voyage  up  the  Gambia    178 

CHAPTEE  X. 
Miscellaneous  Incidents 200 

PAET  II. 

THE  WEST  INDIES. 

CHAPTEE  I. 
Description  of  the  Islands    227 

CHAPTEE  II. 
The  Colony  of  Demekara    251 


Till  CONTE>'TS. 

CHAPTEE  III.  p^sE 

The  Island  of  Baebadoes    276 

CHAPTER  lY. 
The  Island  of  St.  Vincent 302 

CHAPTEE  y. 

The  Island  of  Grenada  329 

CHAPTEE  VI. 

The  Island  of  Tobago  353 

CHAPTEE  VII. 
The  Island  of  Trinidad  367 

CHAPTEE  Vin. 

SuPPLEilENTAPvT   INCIDENTS 394 

PART  III. 

THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

CHAPTEE  I. 

Topographical  Survey  417 

CHAPTEE  n. 

Native  Tribes  and  Colonists 443 

CHAPTEE  III. 
Wesletan  Missions 462 

CHAPTEE  rV. 

Entrance  on  Personal  Mission 486 

CHAPTEE  V. 
PiRST  Journey  to  the  Interior 510 

CHAPTEE  VI. 
Second  Journey  to  the  Interior 526 

CHAPTEE  VII. 
Third  Journey  to  the  Interior    546 

CHAPTEE  VIII. 
Concluding  Incidents  and  Observations    567 


MEMORIALS 


MISSIONARY  LABOURS, 


PART  I. 
WESTERN    AFRICA. 

CHAPTER  I. 

THE  CHAP^ACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

Geographical  Boundaries — General  Aspect — Modes  of  Travelling — AFonn- 
tains  and  Rivers — Fertile  Soil — Natural  Productions — Palm  Oil — Gum- 
Arabic — Bees'  Wax — Ivory — Gold — Vegetables — Fruits — Mode  of 
Cultivation — Sowing  and  Reaping — Threshing — Winnowing — Natural 
History —  Climate — Tornadoes — Noxious  Insects — Fevers — Practical 
Suggestions. 

Throughout  the  entire  range  of  ancient  and  raodern  geo- 
graphy, no  country  has  been  brought  to  the  notice  of  British 
Christians  possessing  stronger  claims  to  their  sympathy  and  aid 
than  "Western  Africa.  The  very  name  of  that  extensive  but 
injured  portion  of  the  globe  is  associated,  in  the  mind  of  the 
genuine  philanthropist,  with  everything  which  is  shocking  and 
revolting  to  the  feelings  of  humanity,  as  well  as  derogatory  to 
the  boasted  dignity  of  our  nature.  So  far  as  it  has  yet  been 
made  known,  its  history  has  been  written  in  characters  of 
blood  ;  and  unfolds  to  us  a  tale  of  cruelty,  oppression,  and  wrong, 
such  as  the  annals  of  crime  have  scarcely  equalled  in  any  other 
country  in  the  darkest  ages.  And,  although  the  claims  of  our 
sable  brethren  have,  of  late  years,   been  urged  upon  us  more 

B 


2  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

frequently  than  in  former  times,  it  is  nevertheless  still  necessary 
ta  keep  the  subject  before  the  Christian  public,  and  to  reiterate 
the  plea,  which  has  already  found  a  response  in  so  many 
benevolent  hearts,  "  Pity  poor  Africa  !  " 

Having  spent  the  best  portion  of  his  life  in  direct  efforts  to 
promote  the  temporal  and  spiritual  welfare  of  the  sable  sons  of 
Ham,  the  writer  has  sincere  pleasure  in  presenting  to  the 
friends  of  Missions  this  humble  contribution  to  the  history  of 
the  noble  enterprise  in  which  they  are  engaged.  But  before 
entering  upon  the  narrative  of  his  personal  labours  and  mission- 
ary experience,  it  has  been  thought  desirable  to  give  a  brief 
account  of  the  character  of  the  country  in  which  he  was  first 
called  to  sojourn,  with  such  notices  of  the  natives,  their 
manners,  customs,  and  superstitions,  as  may  be  most  likely  to 
interest  the  reader,  and  stimulate  to  still  further  exertions  on 
their  behalf. 

The  geographical  boundaries  of  Western  Africa  cannot  be 
defined  with  precision ;  but  a  description  of  the  extent  of  the 
country  sufficiently  definite  for  our  purpose  may  be  given.  The 
name  is  generally  applied  to  that  portion  of  the  vast  continent 
which  lies  between  the  Great  Desert  on  the  north,  the  Equator 
on  the  south,  the  Atlantic  on  the  west,  and  the  river  Niger  on 
the  east ;  embracing  the  regions  of  the  Senegal,  Gambia,  Sierra 
Leone,  Liberia,  Guinea,  and  the  island  of  Fernando  Po.  As 
thus  employed,  the  term  serves  to  distinguish  this  extensive 
territory  from  the  colonies  and  settlements  of  Southern  Africa, 
connected  with  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  en  the  one  hand,  and 
from  the  states  of  Barbary,  includhig  Morocco,  Algiers,  Tunis, 
and  Tripoli  in  Northern  Africa,  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean, on  the  other;  whilst  it  leaves  the  Portuguese  settlements, 
and  the  extensive  regions  of  Central  Africa,  recently  explored  by 
Dr.  Livingstone,  Dr.  l^arth,  and  others,  as  distinct  and  sepa- 
rate portions  of  the  great  continent,  to  be  classified  under  their 
appropriate  denominations. 

When  we  consider  the  vast  extent  of  that  portion  of  the 
globe  now  under  review,  embracing  as  it  does  not  less  than 
1,000,000  square  miles,  we  are  not  surprised  to  find  that  the 


CHAP.    I. — CHA.KACTEU    OF    THE    COUNTRY.  3 

topographical    aspect    and    general    appearance    of     different 
localities  vary  considerably.     In  some  places  we  meet  with  arid, 
sandy  deserts,  where  not  a  blade  of  grass  or  a  drop  of  water  is 
to  be  found   for   scores  of  miles,  and  where  the  caravans   of 
travellinoj  merchants  and  slaves   suffer   much  in  the  course  of  a 
Ions:  journey  from  various  causes,   but   especially  from  thirst. 
Again  we  meet  with  extensive  tracts  of  fertile  land,   teeming 
with  the  most  luxuriant  vegetation,  and  abounding  with  exten- 
sive forests  of  valuable  timber.     These  more  favoured  districts 
are  generally  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  numerous  rivers,  and 
their  tributary  creeks,  with  which  the  country  abounds.     They 
sometimes  present  the  appearance  of  a  gently  undulating   sur- 
face ;  reminding  one  of  an  English  park  or   meadow,  with   here 
and  there  a  beautiful  hill  or  a  rocky  towering  mountain  of  con- 
siderable altitude.     With  the  exception  of  Cape  Yerd,  however, 
the  neighbourhood  of  Sierra  Leone,  the  Cameroons,  and  some 
other  localities,  with  a  few  inconsiderable  hills  and  promon- 
tories, the  land  on  the  coast  is  generally  level.     It  is  not  till  we 
proceed  a  considerable  distance  into  the  interior,  that  we  meet 
wiih  elevations  worthy  of  the  name  of  mountains.     The  dis- 
tricts bordering  on  the  rivers,   creeks,   and  lagoons  are,  more- 
over,  generally  low  and   swampy.     At  the  close  of  the  rainy 
season,  thousands  of  acres  of  land  are  laid   under  water,   and 
present  the  appearance  of  interminable  lakes  or  inland   seas. 
These  extensive  inundations,  laden  as  they  are  with  decaying 
vegetable  and  animal  matter,  being  exposed  to  the  powerful  rays 
of  a  tropical  sun  till  the  moisture  gradually  evaporates,  soon 
become  the   prolific   source  of  the  marsh  miasma,  so  fatal   to 
Europeans  resident  in  the  country. 

Travelling  in  Western  Africa  is  frequently  attended  with 
difficulties  and  dangers  unknown  in  more  highly  favoured  lands. 
The  country  is  not  only  destitute  of  railroads,  those  wonderful 
inventions  of  modern  times,  but  also  of  common  carriage  roads  ; 
for  no  wheel  vehicles  are  used  by  the  natives  in  any  place  we 
have  visited,  or  of  which  we  have  heard.  The  best  roads  are 
mere  footpaths  across  the  deserts  or  through  the  forests,  on 
which  the  people  \v^\k  in  single  file ;  each  man  carrying  in  his 
hand  a  gun  or  a  cutlass  to  defend  himself  against  the  attacks  of 

B  2 


4  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

serpents,  or  beasts  of  prey,  to  which  he  is  constantly  exposed. 
In  some  of  the  more  open  districts,  horses  are  occasionally  used 
for  the  saddle ;  but  they  are  not  generally  employed  as  beasts 
ol  burden,  or  for  long  journeys.  Indeed,  on  some  parts  of  the 
continent,  as  Cape  Coast,  Ashanti,  and  other  places,  from  some 
peculiarity  in  the  herbage  or  in  the  climate,  horses  cannot  live. 
As  often  as  they  are  introduced  from  otlier  places,  they  decline 
in  their  condition,  and  ultimately  dwindle  and  die.  Camels 
even  share  the  same  fate,  although  horned  cattle  thrive  pretty 
well.  When  long  journeys  have  to  be  performed  over  land, 
Europeans  are,  in  some  places,  carried  by  the  native  bearers  in 
hammocks  or  chairs,  according  to  the  plan  adopted  in  India, 
whilst  others  follow  with  the  baggage  and  provisions  of  the 
traveller.  In  some  parts  of  the  country,  however,  we  travel 
chiefly  by  water.  The  mighty  rivers  which  wend  their  way  in 
various  directions  towards  the  sea  supply,  to  some  extent,  the 
want  of  public  roads ;  and  appear  to  have  been  designed  by 
Providence  as  so  many  highways  to  the  interior  of  Africa  ;  for 
which  purpose  they  are  already  used,  to  a  considerable  extent, 
in  many  places. 

The  native  tribes  living  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  prin- 
cipal streams,  lakes,  lagoons,  and  creeks,  employ  vessels  of 
various  kinds  to  transport  themselves  and  their  merchandise 
from  place  to  place  ;  and  it  is  almost  as  common  to  meet  boats 
or  canoes  on  some  of  the  rivers,  as  you  sail  along,  as  it  is  to 
meet  horses  and  carriages  on  the  public  roads  in  England- 
Some  of  the  canoes  used  by  the  natives  are  large  and  handsome 
vessels.  Eor,  although  the  hulk  is  made  of  the  trunk  of  a 
single  tree,  hollowed  out  with  great  skill,  it  is  frequently  sixty 
or  seventy  feet  long,  and  six  or  seven  feet  broad,  being  occa- 
sionally raised  at  the  sides  with  planks,  and  beautifully 
ornamented  with  carved  work.  A  canoe  of  the  largest  class  is 
generally  manned  with  twenty-four  Negroes,  who  sit  on  the 
edge  or  gunwale  of  the  vessel,  twelve  on  each  side,  and  propel 
it  forward  at  a  rapid  rate,  with  paddles  about  three  feet  long, 
which  they  ply  with  remarkably  dexterity,  beating  time  to  a 
tune  which  they  sing  with  much  spirit  to  some  extempora- 
neous  song   made   to   suit   the  occasion.     Thus  the  scene  is 


CHAP.  I. — CHAEACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY.         5 

rendered  quite  lively  and  aniraated  when  a  fleet  of  these  native 
craft  are  sailing  in  company  ;  for  they  make  the  surrounding 
forest  ring  with  their  merry  songs,  as  they  dash  along  through 
the  placid  water. 

The  principal  rivers  of  Western  Africa,  to  which  allusion  has 
just  been  made,  are  the  Niger,  Gambia,  Senegal,  Sierra  Leone, 
Yolta,  Mesurado,  Bonny,  Calabar,  Nunez,  Pongas,  and  the  liio 
Grande.     Most  of  these  majestic  streams   take  their  rise  in  a 
range  of  mountains  in  the  interior,  which  runs  nearly  parallel 
with  the  coast,  usually  called  the  Kong  Mountains ;  and,  after 
watering  extensive  and  fertile  regions,   empty  themselves  into 
the  Atlantic  at  various  points  on  the  coast.     The  source  and 
termination  of  the  river  Niger  were,  for  a  long  time,  unknown  ; 
and  their   discovery  was  in  vain  attempted,  until  the  successful 
researches  of  the  celebrated   Mungo   Park,  and   the   intrepid 
Landers,    who   ultimately   solved    the   grand    problem.      The 
former  ascertained  that  it  took  its  rise  in  the  mountains  to 
which   we   have   referred ;    and   the   latter   found   that,    after 
flowing  in  a  winding  course  about   two  thousand  miles  through 
Central  Africa,  it  discharged  its  mighty  volume  of  waters  by  a 
number  of  large  estuaries  into  the  Bight  of  Benin.     These  real 
mouths   of    the   Niger    were   formerly   regarded   as    so    many 
separate  rivers ;  and  were  known  as  the  Brass  river,  the  Nun 
river,   the  Old  Calabar,  the  New  Calabar,   &c.     But  now  it  is 
evident  that  a  vessel  may  ascend   by  any  one  of  these  to   the 
very  heart  of  Africa ;   and,  at  the  proper  season  of  the  year, 
arrive  at  Rabba,  Sego,  or  Timbuctoo,  on  the  banks  of  the  Niger. 
The  Gambia  may  be  fairly  classed  among  the  largest  and 
most  important  rivers  of  Western  Africa;    and  it  justly  stands 
next  in  rank  to  the  majestic  Niger.     The  banks  and  islands  of 
this  truly  noble  river  were  the  scene  of  the  writer's  missionaiy 
labours  and  travels,  whilst  resident  in  that  country  :    a  more 
particular  account  of  this  locality  may,  therefore,  be  naturally 
expected.     But,  such   is    the   similarity   both   of  the    general 
aspect  of  the  country,  and  of  the  character  and  habits  of  the 
people  throughout  the  principal  portion  of  Western  Africa,  that 
the  account  here  given  of  them  may  be  regarded  as  of  general 
application. 


6  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFEICA. 

The  river  Gambia  takes  its  rise  at  the  northern  extremity  of 
the  Kong  Mountains,  not  far  from  the  sources  of  the  Niger  and 
the  Senegal ;  and,  after  watering  a  beautiful  and  fertile  country, 
through  which  it  wends  its  serpentine  course  for  nearly  a  thou- 
sand miles,  it  empties  itself  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  the 
south  of  Cape  Verd,  in  latitude  13°  30'  north,  and  longitude 
15°  west.  It  is  about  twelve  miles  wide  at  the  mouth  ;  but  on 
proceeding  upwards  we  soon  iind  its  width  contracted  to  about 
three  miles.  Thus  it  continues  to  vary  from  one  to  three  miles 
in  width  for  a  considerable  distance ;  sometimes,  however, 
extending  itself  so  as  to  present  the  appearance,  after  the  rainy 
season,  of  a  vast  inland  sea.  It  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  fifty 
or  sixty  tons'  burden  for  upwards  of  four  hundred  miles,  at 
which  point  further  progress  is  interrupted  by  a  series  of  rapids 
known  as  the  Palis  of  Baraconda.  In  the  dry  season,  the 
influence  of  the  tides  is  felt  to  a  distance  of  more  than  three 
hundred  miles  from  the  sea ;  and  the  larger  vessels  of  the 
European  merchants  avail  themselves  of  this  circumstance  in 
navigating  the  stream,  as  the  breeze  is  frequently  rather  feeblcj 
being  impeded  by  the  surrounding  forests.  On  ascending  an 
eminence,  in  the  upper  parts  of  the  river,  the  prospect  pre- 
sented to  the  view  is  frequently  of  a  charming  character.  On 
tlie  right  hand  and  on  the  left  extensive  forests  of  the  richest 
foliage  may  be  seen  waving  in  the  wind,  with  here  and  there  a 
native  town  with  its  clearings  of  cultivated  ground  ;  whilst,  on 
looking  towards  the  sea,  we  behold  the  majestic  Gambia  glitter- 
ing in  the  sun,  like  a  silvery  thread,  as  it  silently  flows  in  its 
tortuous  course  towards  the  mighty  ocean.  When  sailing  on 
the  river  itself,  the  scenery  is,  in  many  places,  very  interesting. 
The  margin  of  the  water  is,  for  more  than  a  hundred  miles, 
lined  with  dense  masses  of  the  mangrove  tree, — a  beautiful 
evergreen,  with  shining  leaves  of  deep  green,  not  unlike  the 
laurel  of  our  own  country.  These  mangroves  flourish  only 
where  the  ground  is  low  and  swampy,  and  saturated  with  salt 
water,  at  the  flow  of  each  successive  tide ;  but,  as  every  tree 
sends  down  a  number  of  branches,  each  of  which  in  time 
becomes  a  tree,  the  whole  forms  an  impenetrable  mass  of 
jungle.     On  ascending  further  into  the  interior,  the  banks  of 


CHAP.    I. — CHARACTER    OF    THE    COUNTRY.  7 

the  river  are  found  to  be  more  elevated,  and  the  ground  drier, 
and  frequently  eovered  with  forest  trees  of  gigantic  stature. 
Throughout  its  entire  length,  the  Gambia  is  studded  with  beau- 
tiful islands,  on  two  of  which,  St.  Mary's  and  Macarthy's, 
British  settlements  have  been  formed.  Of  these,  and  some 
other  important  places  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  an  account 
will  be  given  in  a  future  chapter. 

With  the  exception  of  the  sandy  deserts  and  rocky  mountains 
already  referred  to,  and  which  occupy  a  comparatively  small 
portion  of  the  vast  continent,  the  soil  of  Western  Africa  is 
generally  rich  and  fertile.  At  the  close  of  the  rainy  seasouj 
vegetation  of  every  description  springs  up  with  amazing 
rapidity ;  and,'  with  the  application  of  ordinary  skill  and 
industry,  the  land  would  be  remarkably  productive.  Perhaps 
we  should  not  greatly  err,  if  we  were  to  assert  that  no  country 
in  the  world  surpasses  this  in  the  abundance  of  its  natural 
resources.  The  vast  alluvial  plains  on  the  banks  of  the  nume- 
rous rivers  and  creeks  near  the  coast  appear  well  adapted  for 
the  cultivation  of  hemp,  indigo,  cotton,  coffee,  ginger,  arrow- 
root, sugar,  rice,  and  other  articles  peculiar  to  the  tropics ; 
whilst  the  uplands,  in  the  interior  districts,  produce  the 
finest  specimens  of  timber  from  the  mahogany  to  the  famous 
camwood.  There  also  may  be  seen  the  cocoa-nut  and  the 
palm,  with  their  lofty  plumes  gracefully  waving  in  the  breeze. 
The  palm  tree  is  a  great  favourite  with  the  natives,  inasmuch  as 
it  yields  the  refreshing  wine  of  which  they  are  so  passionately 
fond.  They  also  extract  from  the  pulp  of  the  nut  the  cele- 
brated palm  oil,  which  has,  of  late  years,  become  a  prime  article 
of  export,  upwards  of  20,000  tons  having  been  exported  to 
England  in  one  year.  The  value  of  palm  oil  now  exported 
from  West  AMcsi  amounts  to  £l,hOO,000  per  ammm.  Large 
quantities  of  gum-arabic  are  collected  annually  in  the  country 
which  extends  between  the  Senegal  and  the  Gambia,  and  on  the 
borders  of  the  Great  Desert.  This  valuable  article  is  found 
exuding  from  the  branches  of  a  small  shrub,  not  larger  than  the 
mulberry  tree,  and  is  gathered  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  for 
exportation  to  Europe.  The  natives  are  also  in  the  habit  of 
ranging  the  forests  in  search  of  bees'  nests,  which  they  take, 


8  PART    I. "WESTERN    AFRICA. 

not  so  much  for  the  sake  of  the  honey,  as  for  the  wax,  which 
has  become  an  important  article  of  barter  with  the  merchants 
on  the  coast,  who  collect  it  for  exportation.  Another  valuable 
article  of  merchandise  is  ivory,  which  is  brought  down  from  the 
interior  in  considerable  quantities,  and  exchanged,  by  the 
natives,  for  various  items  of  British  manufacture. 

In  directing  attention  to  the  native  productions  and  natural 
resources  of  Western  Africa,  we  must  not  omit  to  advert  to  the 
probable  mineral  wealth  of  the  country.  Some  districts  appear 
to  be  literally  impregnated  with  the  precious  metal ;  ^nd  we 
have  seen,  in  the  possession  of  one  person,  several  pounds' 
weight  of  pure  gold,  collected  and  prepared  for  the  British 
market.  The  hills  on  the  banks  of  the  upper  Gambia,  more- 
over, contain  iron  and  copper  ores,  which  are  smelted  and 
worked  up  by  the  natives  into  various  useful  and  ornamental 
articles.  We  are  aware  that,  hitherto,  these  mineral  pro- 
ductions have  been  only  obtained  in  small  quantities,  and  by  a 
slow  and  laborious  process,  the  gold  being  generally  collected 
in  single  grains  in  the  beds  of  periodical  rivers  ;  but  by  the 
application  of  improved  modes  of  mining,  crushing,  and  smelt- 
ing the  ore,  it  is  probable  that  important  results  would  be 
realized. 

Notwithstanding  the  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  the  numerous 
advantages  possessed  by  the  country  generally,  very  little  has, 
as  yet,  been  done  to  open  up  its  numerous  resources.  The 
land,  to  a  considerable  extent,  lies  waste,  only  very  small 
portions  having  been  brought  under  cultivation.  The  imme- 
diate wants  of  the  natives,  in  their  present  uncivilized  state,  are 
few,  and  they  literally  "  take  no  thought  for  the  morrow."  In 
the  vicinity  of  each  town  or  village  may  be  seen  the  gardens 
and  fields  of  the  people,  sometimes  laid  out  with  a  degree  of 
neatness  and  taste  truly  commendable,  but  always  on  a  limited 
scale,  considering  the  abundance  of  land  available  for  culti- 
vation. The  most  common  articles  of  produce,  and  those  on 
which  the  natives  chiefly  subsist,  are  yams,  corn,  rice,  manioc, 
plantains,  pumpkins,  melons,  onions,  cucumbers,  ocroes,  beans, 
and  ground-nuts,  with  a  few  other  vegetables  of  minor  con- 
sequence.    Fruit  is  also  abundant,  and  of  great  variety  ;  as  the 


CHAP.  I. — CHAEACTEE  OF  THE  COUNTRY.        9 

orange,  banana,  sour-sop,  guava,  pineapple,  papwa,  and  mango 
plums.  Most  of  these  fruits,  especially  the  guava  and  the  pine- 
apple, grow  wild  in  the  woods  at  Sierra  Leone. 

The  native  mode  of  cultivating  the  ground  is  somewhat 
peculiar,  and  deserves  a  passing  notice.  The  low  swampy 
land  on  the  banks  of  the  Gambia  appears  best  adapted  for  the 
cultivation  of  rice,  which  is  grown  in  large  quantities.  The 
ground  is  prepared  by  the  women  and  slaves,  before  the  waters 
of  the  river  have  retired  into  their  usual  channel,  after  the 
annual  rains.  When  engaged  in  this  branch  of  native  agri- 
culture, they  may  be  seen  wading  up  to  the  knees  in  mud  and 
water,  tramping  the  ground  with  their  feet,  and  breaking  the 
clods  with  their  hoes,  till  they  have  reduced  the  whole  to  a 
proper  consistency.  The  seed  is  then  literally  "  cast  upon  the 
waters ; "  and  as  evaporation  takes  place,  it  settles  in  the  mud, 
germinates,  springs  up,  and  produces  an  abundant  harvest. 
The  appearance  of  a  field  of  rice,  as  it  advances  to  maturity,  is 
not  dissimilar  to  that  of  one  sown  with  wheat  or  barley  in  our 
own  country  ;  and  the  grain  is  gathered  in,  and  stored  up,  in  a 
similar  manner. 

The  drier  land,  in  more  elevated  situations,  is  selected  for 
Indian  and  Guinea  corn,  both  of  which  are  produced  with  very 
little  labour.  After  the  ground  has  been  cleared  of  weeds,  and 
becomes  moistened  with  the  first  showers  of  rain  which  fall  after 
the  dry  season,  the  labourer  passes  along,  merely  grazing  the 
earth  with  a  hoe,  at  intervals  of  two  or  three  feet,  drops  in  the 
seed,  covers  it  up  with  the  foot,  and  thus  the  work  of  sowing  is 
accomplished.  As  the  green  blade  springs  up,  it  only  requires 
weeding  occasionally,  and  a  plentiful  crop  is  generally  secured 
as  the  result  of  this  trifling  labour.  The  Guinea  corn  is  of  two 
or  three  kinds.  When  freed  from  the  husk,  one  sort  has  the 
appearance  of  very  small  peas ;  and  the  other,  which  is  a  kind 
of  maize,  has  a  striking  resemblance  to  the  common  canary 
seed.  All  kinds  of  corn  in  Western  Africa  grow  to  a  great 
height,  varying  from  eight  to  twelve  feet ;  and  each  stem  being 
strong  and  stout,  the  process  of  reaping  resembles  that  of 
felling  small  trees.  When  the  grain  is  ripe,  the  husbandman 
strikes  at  the  root  of  the  tall  corn  stalk  with  his  bill  or  cutlass. 


10  PAUT  I.  —  WESTERN  AFRICA. 

and  it  falls  to  the  ground.  The  large  bushy  ears  are  carefully 
collected  into  the  granary,  and  the  stems  are  used  for  fuel, 
fencing,  and  other  domestic  purposes. 

The  mode  of  threshing  adopted  by  the  natives  is  also  pecu- 
liarly rude  and  simple.  They  carry  the  corn  to  an  elevated 
place  in  the  field,  cleared  for  the  purpose,  and  merely  beat  out 
the  grain  with  large  sticks.  The  process  of  winnowing  is 
equally  simple ;  for,  selecting  a  windy  day  for  the  purpose,  they 
throw  up  the  corn  into  the  air,  the  breeze  blows  away  the  chaft", 
and  the  pure  grain  is  collected  and  stored  up  for  mercantile 
purposes,  or  for  home  consumption.  The  native  granaries  are 
circular  buildings,  formed  of  wattled  canes,  and  covered  with 
thatched  roofs.  They  generally  stand  on  posts  eight  or  ten  feet 
high,  and  are  reached  by  a  moveable  ladder.  This  arrangement 
is  considered  necessary  to  preserve  the  grain  from  the  depre- 
dations of  the  various  kinds  of  vermin,  with  which  the  country 
abounds,  as  well  as  to  make  it  less  accessible  to  the  two-footed 
animals  ^Ahich  might  be  otherwise  tempted  to  help  themselves 
to  their  neighbours'  property  without  permission. 

But  the  yam  is  the  most  highly  prized  by  the  natives  of 
Western  Africa.  At  this  we  are  not  surprised,  when  we  call  to 
mind  its  nutritive  qualities,  and  the  ease  with  which  it  is 
produced  in  a  climate  so  well  adapted  to  its  e;rowtli.  It  is  cul- 
tivated by  planting  cuttings  after  the  manner  of  potatoe 
planting  in  England ;  only,  the  yam  being  much  larger  than  the 
potatoe,  it  requires  a  deeper  soil.  One  yam  sometimes  weighs 
eighteen  or  twenty  pounds,  and  would  furnish  a  meal  for  a  con- 
siderable family.  In  substance  this  root  is  more  like  the 
turnip  than  the  potatoe ;  but  in  taste  it  resembles  neither,  par- 
taking more  of  the  nature  of  bread.  In  shape  it  bears  a 
striking  resemblance  to  the  ginger  root,  frequently  branching 
out  in  finger-like  projections,  and  other  fantastic  forms.  The 
sweet  potatoe  is  also  a  valuable  edible,  somewhat  smaller  than 
the  yam ;  and  although  totally  unlike  any  vegetable  in  domestic 
use  in  Europe,  it  is,  nevertheless,  eaten  with  relish  when  the 
taste  for  it  is  once  acquired.  It  is  cultivated  by  planting  slips 
of  the  top,  which  run  along  the  surface  of  the  ground,  or  climb 
up  a  pole  like  a  vine.     On  this  account,  it  is  an  economical 


CHAP.  I. — CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY.       11 

article  of  diet,  being  produced  with  little  labour,  and  still  less 
expense  for  seed  ;  and  it  is  in  high  repute  among  the  natives. 
The  sea  coast  and  the  rivers  abound  with  excellent  fish;  as  the 
dolphin,  pilchard,  and  mullet ;  and  the  market  is  occasionally 
supplied  with  mussels,  cockles,  and  oysters.* 

It  does  not  come  within  our  province  to  dwell  at  length  here 
on  tl;e  natural  history  of  Western  Africa ;  but  we  may  briefly 
observe,  that  no  part  of  the  world  affords  greater  variety  or 
richer  specimens  of  the  wonderful  works  of  God  in  each  respec- 
tive kingdom  of  nature.  We  have  already  adverted  to  the  indi- 
cations of  mineral  wealth  which  appear  in  different  parts  of  the 
country,  as  uell  as  to  the  luxuriant  vegetation  of  the  coast, 
which  piesents  such  an  extensive  field  for  the  researches  of  the 
botanist.  The  lamented  Bowdich  did  much  to  elucidate  these 
branches  of  science ;  and  had  he  lived  to  complete  his  investi- 
gations in  the  interior,  still  clearer  light  would,  no  doubt,  have 
been  throw^n  upon  the  subject.  The  wild  animals,  which  haunt 
the  rivers  and  roam  about  the  forests,  are  very  numerous.  The 
most  prominent  of  these  are  the  lion,  leopard,  hyaena,  elephant, 
hippopotamus,  crocodile,  baboons,  and  monkeys  of  various 
kinds,  from  the  savage  gorilla  to  the  smallest  species,  so 
easily  domesticated  in  dwelling-houses.  A  great  variety  of 
serpents  might  also  be  enumerated,  from  the  gigantic  boa-con- 
strictor to  the  smallest  snake  that  glides  among  the  grass.  The 
specimens  of  the  feathered  tribe  are  likewise  numerous  ;  for  we 
have  seen  in  Western  Africa  the  ostrich,  maraboo,  crown  bird, 
guinea  fowl,  vulture,  wild  turkey,  partridge,  dove,  kingfisher, 
canary,  mocking-bird,  humming-bird,  and  parrots  and  paro- 
quets of  various  kinds,  with  an  almost  endless  variety  of  small 

*  There  is  a  curious  circumstance  connected  with  African  oysters  which 
may  be  mentioned  here,  for  the  edification  of  the  youthful  reader.  They 
grov)  vj)on  trees ;  and  we  have  seen  a  fine  crop  brought  to  market,  the 
oysters  still  adhering  to  the  branches  on  which  they  had  grown.  Be  not 
iucredulous,  and  we  will  explain.  There  are  no  rocks  to  which  the  young 
oysters  can  adhere  ;  but  there  are  the  roots  and  branches  of  mangrove  trees 
in  abundance,  which  are  submerged  by  every  flowing  tide :  to  these  the 
young  oysters  attach  themselves,  and  on  these  they  live  and  grow  till  they 
are  matured,  when  the  natives  come  and  chop  of  the  branches,  throw  them 
into  their  canoes,  and  offer  them  for  sale,  as  already  stated. 


12  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA.. 

birds  of  the  most  splendid  plumage,  exhibiting  every  colour  of 
the  rainbow.  It  is  remarkable,  however,  that  these  exquisitely 
beautiful  birds,  with  the  exception  of  the  canary,  are  generally 
not  birds  of  songs.  In  travelling  through  the  woods  a  few 
pleasant  chirping  notes  may  be  heard,  but  nothing  to  be  com- 
pared with  the  continuous  cheerful  warbling  of  the  blackbirds, 
thrushes,  larks,  and  linnets,  of  our  own  highly  favoured'  country. 
But  the  most  annoying  creatures  in  Western  Africa  are  those 
belonging  to  the  insect  tribe.  With  care  one  may  manage  to 
keep  out  of  the  way  of  the  larger  animals,  or,  if  an  encounter  be 
inevitable,  the  enemy  may  be  vanquished,  and  there  is  an  end  of 
the  contest ;  but  it  is  utterly  impossible  to  escape  from,  or  to  van- 
quish, the  endless  hosts  of  centipedes,  scorpions,  flies,  cockroaches, 
ants,  and  innumerable  other  foes,  not  to  be  mentioned,  by  which 
one  is  constantly  assailed.  As  several  of  the  above-named 
living  creatures  have  come  across  the  writer's  path  in  the  course 
of  his  travels,  they  may  be  more  particularly  noticed  in  the 
chapters  devoted  to  his  personal  narrative. 

But  the  greatest  drawback  to  our  pleasure  in  contemplating 
Western  Africa  as  a  country  is  the  character  of  the  climate. 
The  seasons  are  divided  into  dry  and  rainy,  which  are  marked 
with  a  distinctness  not  known  in  other  parts  of  the  world. 
With  a  slight  variation  on  ditferent  parts  of  the  coast,  the  dry 
season  commences  about  the  month  of  September,  and  con- 
tinues till  May  following.  During  these  nine  months  not  a 
shower  of  rain  is  seen  to  fall,  and  the  ground  becomes  parched 
and  dry  ;  but  during  the  remaining  three  months  of  the  year  the 
rain  descends  in  torrents,  day  and  night,  with  scarcely  any  inter- 
mission.*   The  principal  rivers  now  overflow  their  banks  like  the 

*  The  following  comparison  may  serve  to  give  a  clearer  view  of  the 
quantity  of  rain  which  falls  in  the  course  of  the  year  in  Western  Africa. 
It  is  compiled  from  the  best  available  sources.  The  Senegal  estimate  is  from 
the  pen  of  Dr.  Lind,  and  that  for  Sierra  Leone  is  furnished  by  Dr. 
Winterbottom ;  whilst  the  one  for  the  Gambia  is  from  our  own  obser- 
vations : — 

INCHES 

Senegal,  Western  Africa,  in  three  months 115 

Gambia,           do.                do.            101 

Sierra  Leone,  do.                do.            S6 

Kingston,  Jamaica 83 


CHAP.  I. — CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY.       13 

Nile,  and  the  low  lands  are  completely  inundated  for  scores  of 
miles.  When  the  rains  in  the  interior  begin  to  subside,  the 
waters  gradually  retire  into  their  usual  channels  ;  but  they  leave 
large  tracks  of  country  still  partially  submerged,  and  presenting 
to  the  view  a  succession  of  pestilential  swamps.  The  sun  now 
pours  his  fiery  rays  upon  these  extensive  marshes  ;  the  waters  of 
which  soon  become  stagnant,  as  evaporation  takes  places ;  and, 
charged  as  they  are  with  vast  accumulations  of  putrid  animal 
and  vegetable  matter,  they  emit  effluvia  almost  unbearable. 
The  fatal  matsh  miasma,  thus  generated,  is  borne  on  the  wings 
of  the  wind  over  the  country  at  large,  and  frequently  carries 
fever,  desolation,  and  death  to  the  habitations  of  thousands. 
After  many  years'  experience  in  other  tropical  countries,  we 
regard  this  peculiarity  in  the  climate  of  Western  Africa  as  the 
real  cause  of  its  pre-eminent  unhealthiness. 

The  rainy  season  is  ushered  in  by  the  appearance  of  sheet 
lightning,  which  is  seen  flickering  on  the  horizon  at  short  inter- 
vals for  several  successive  nights,  and  which  sometimes  illumi- 
nates the  whole  heavens.  Then  follow  a  succession  of  tornadoes. 
These  are  violent  thunderstorms,  accompanied  by  circumstances 
of  an  alarming  character.  The  sky,  which  has  so  long  been 
bright  and  cloudless,  begins  to  assume  a  sombre  aspect.  Dense 
masses  of  clouds  are  seen  to  gather  in  the  east,  till  the  whole 
heavens  are  overcast  as  with  a  sable  mantle.  Now  the  lightning 
begins  to  flash  with  fearful  vividness,  and  the  thunder  roars  in 
awful  peals,  resembling  the  crashing  noise  produced  by  the  dis- 
charge of  numerous  fields  of  artillery.  These  fearful  manifes- 
tations are  followed  by  the  sudden  rushing  forth  of  the  wind, 

Calcutta,  India 81 

Kendal,  Westmoreland  56 

Rome 39 

Liverpool    33 

Edinburgh 24 

London   21 

Berlin 20 

Petersburg 16 

Thus  it  appears  that  a  larger  quantity  of  rain  falls,  on  au  average,  in  three 

months  in  "Western  Africa  than  in  England  in  three  years,  although  we 

sometimes  regard  this  as  a  rainy  country. 


14  PART    I. WESTERN    AFRICA.. 

like  a  prisoner  bursting  loose  from  his  chains.  Then  the  rain 
pours  down  in  torrents,  as  if  the  windows  of  heaven  were 
opened;  and  the  elements  of  nature,  including  earth,  sky,  and 
sea,  appear  mingled  in  fearful  conflict !  As  the  tornado  is  seen 
to  approach,  it  is  necessary  to  secure  windows  and  doors,  and 
everything  about  the  house  which  is  likely  to  be  affected  by  the 
tempest ;  but,  notwithstanding  every  precaution,  considerable 
damage  is  frequently  done,  in  the  unroofing  of  houses,  the  up- 
rooting of  trees,  and  the  destruction  of  fences.  But  the  vessels 
in  the  rivers  and  on  the  sea  fare  the  worst  on  these  occasions, 
being  sometimes  completely  capsized  by  the  suddenness  with 
which  the  gale  sets  in  before  the  men  on  board  have  time  to 
shorten  sail,  or  prepare  for  the  emergency. 

The  heat  is  frequently  intense  during  the  dry  season,  the 
thermometer  sometimes  rising  as  high  as  from  95°  to  105°  in  the 
shade.  For  several  months,  however,  the  heat  on  the  coast  is 
tempered  by  a  gentle  sea-breeze,  which  rises  every  morning  and 
blows  during  the  day  with  tolerable  regularity.  At  the  opposite 
season  of  the  year,  when  the  land-breeze  prevails  for  a  short 
time,  and  the  harmattan  winds  blow  across  the  sandy  deserts  in 
the  interior,  the  heat  is  very  oppressive,  reminding  one  of  the 
hot  air  which  proceeds  from  the  mouth  of  a  furnace.  This  we 
have  found  so  intense  as  to  produce  extreme  dryness  of  the  skin, 
with  parched  lips,  as  well  as  to  damage  sundry  articles  of  fur- 
niture in  thb  house,  cracking  the  glass  and  china  ware  on  the 
sideboard,  &c.  But  this  most  unpleasant  wind  soon  passes 
away,  and  we  hail  with  joy  the  return  of  the  refreshing  sea- 
breeze.  On  the  other  hand,  the  rainy  season  is  marked  by  a 
state  of  the  atmosphere  the  very  reverse  of  that  which  we  have 
just  described.  The  ground  being  everywhere  completely  satu- 
rated, and  in  many  places  inundated,  the  fierce  rays  of  the  sun, 
which  occasionally  burst  through  the  clouds,  rapidly  accelerate 
the  process  of  evaporation,  and  the  exhalations  which  arise  are  so 
dense  that  a  thick  nii:>t  is  frequently  seen  to  prevail,  and  the 
air  is  rendered  peculiarly  humid.  We  have  often  seen  the  walls 
of  the  interior  of  the  house  steaming  with  water,  from  the  con- 
densation of  the  vapours  which  prevailed  ;  and  we  have  some- 
times been  obliged  to  light  a  fire  in  the  stove  in  our  bed-room, 


CHAP.  I. — CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY.       15 

even  when  the  weather  was  hot  and  sultry,  simply  to  rarefy  the 
air,  and  dispel  the  damp,  before  we  could  retire  to  rest  with 
safety. 

The  year  is  further  subdivided  by  the  natives  into  lunar 
months,  or  "  moons,"  as  they  terra  them  ;  and  the  time  of  the 
day  is  noted  by  the  altitude  of  the  sun  in  the  heavens,  clocks 
and  watches  being  out  of  the  question.  The  day  varies  only 
about  an  hour  in  length  during  the  whole  year,  the  country 
being  situated  entirely  within  the  tropics.  The  twilight  is  of 
short  duration  ;  for  no  sooner  does  the  sun  descend  beneath  the 
western  horizon,  tiian  night  begins  to  spread  her  sable  mantle 
over  the  earth.  This  is  very  pleasant  in  the  dry  season, 
especially  when  it  is  moonlight ;  for  now  the  air  is  comparatively 
cool,  and  all  nature  is  tranquil.  But  in  the  wet  season  the 
case  is  very  different.  At  this  period  of  the  year,  no  sooner 
have  the  last  rays  of  daylight  departed,  than  the  reptile  and 
insect  tribes  begin  their  nightly  song.  The  discordant  noise 
produced  by  the  croaking  of  the  frogs,  the  chirping  of  the 
crickets,  cockroaches,  and  beetles,  the  flapping  and  screaming 
of  bats,  and  the  buzzing  of  myriads  of  mosquitoes,  is  almost 
deafening.  Multitudes  of  these  noxious  creatures  are  attracted 
into  the  house  by  the  light,  and  sometimes  cover  the  walls  of 
the  room  in  which  you  are  sitting  ;  even  extinguishing  the 
candle  or  lamp  by  crowding  around  it,  regardless  of  the  conse- 
quences. It  is  at  this  season  of  the  year  that  the  mosquitoes 
especially  are  so  troublesome ;  for,  notwithstanding  the  precaution 
of  providing  net  curtains  to  the  beds,  and  other  means  of 
defence,  they  still  penetrate,  and  by  their  perpetual  buzzing 
and  their  poisonous  stings  they  frequently  deprive  one  of 
sleep  for  several  nights  in  succession. 

It  is  towards  the  close  of  the  annual  rains,  when  the  exhala- 
tions from  the  swampy  ground  are  so  sensibly  felt,  that  the 
sickly  season  is  considered  to  commence.  JNow  the  natives 
themselves  are  frequently  attacked  with  sickness ;  and  among 
the  Europeans  the  "  old  hands "  expect  the  usual  attacks  of 
ague  and  fever,  whilst  the  "  new  comers  "  have  to  pass  through 
their  "  seasoning."  This  process  is,  undoubtedly,  more  painful 
and  hazardous  than  the  ordinary  attacks  of  fever,  which  may  be 


16  FART  T. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

expected  to  follow  at  intervals,  and  from  which  none  need 
hope  to  escape.  At  first,  the  patient  is  attacked  with  severe 
headache,  followed  by  a  fit  of  shivering,  which  frequently  con- 
tinues for  several  hours,  notwithstanding  the  additional  covering 
which  may  be  applied  to  his  person.  Then  comes  the  hot 
stage,  during  which  the  skin  is  dry  and  bm-ning,  whilst  the 
action  of  the  pulse  is  quick  and  violent.  The  actual  heat  of  the 
body  at  this  stage  of  the  disease  is  almost  incredible ;  a  person 
in  health  hardly  being  able  to  bear  his  hand  in  contact  with  the 
forehead  of  the  sufferer.  The  time  which  this  dry  burning  fit 
continues  varies  in  different  persons,  according  to  the  nature  of 
the  attack,  or  the  constitution  of  the  patient.  If  everything 
proceeds  favourably,  it  may  be  expected  to  terminate  in  two  or 
three  days ;  but  if  it  continue  longer,  danger  may  be  appre- 
hended, as  few  have  survived  the  fifth  day  without  any 
remission  of  fever.  When  the  fever  breaks,  the  dry  burning- 
stage  is  followed  by  copious  perspiration,  when  the  dangerous 
crisis  is  considered  to  be  past,  and  a  speedy  recovery  is  antici- 
pated. The  fever,  however,  frequently  assumes  the  intermittent 
form,  and  returns  every  alternate  day,  with  a  regularity  which 
is  surprising ;  but  these  periodical  attacks  are  trifling,  and  of 
short  duration,  compared  with  the  "  seasoning ; "  and  the 
patient  can  frequently  move  about  on  the  day  which  intervenes 
between  them,  which  he  calls  his  "  good  day." 

As  all  West  African  fevers  are  more  or  less  of  the  bilious  type, 
the  mode  of  treatment  has  generally  been  simple  and  uniform. 
Calomel,  in  combination  with  rhubarb  or  jalap,  is  freely 
administered  immediately  on  a  person  being  attacked,  and 
Dover's  Powder  has  been  found  useful  in  aiding  perspiration. 
During  the  intermission,  the  sulphate  of  quinine  is  resorted  to, 
as  an  infallible  remedy  against  the  return  of  fever ;  and  it 
scarcely  ever  fails,  if  a  sufficient  quantity,  say  twenty-five  grains 
can  only  be  received  into  the  system  in  the  interim,  by  taking 
it  in  small  quantities  every  two  or  three  hours.  As  soon  as  the 
patient  becomes  convalescent,  careful  nursing  and  constant 
attention  to  diet  are  of  the  greatest  possible  importance. 

There  is  nothing  very  alarming  in  the  common  country  fever 
to  a  person  with  a  good  sound  constitution,  and  of  temperate 


CHAP.  I.  —  CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY.        17 

habits  ;  but  we  are  occasionally  visited  on  the  coast  with  an 
epidemic  in  the  form  of  yellow  fever.  From  continued  observa- 
tion, it  has  been  found  that  this  fearful  scourge  visits  Western 
Africa  every  six  or  seven  years.  It  is  impossil)le  to  say  through 
what  medijun  it  comes  :  whether  it  is  conveyed  by  the  filthy 
state  of  the  slave  ships,  or  by  American  vessels  coming  from 
the  West  Indies,  or  through  the  atmosphere,  like  the  mysterious 
cholera,  none  can  tell.  When  this  extraordinary  epidemical 
disease  makes  its  appearance,  considerable  alarm  is  excited, 
inasmuch  as  it  is  infectious  and  contagious  in  a  manner  quile 
diflferent  from  the  annual  remittent  and  intermittent  fevers 
already  described.  It  has,  moreover,  proved  much  more  fatal 
than  any  other  disease  known  on  the  coast,  spreading  with 
fearful  rapidity,  and  sometimes  cairying  off  one  half  of  a  whole 
community.  The  "yellow  fever"  is  easily  distinguished  from 
fevers  of  the  common  bilious  type,  not  only  by  the  yellow  or 
jaundice-like  complexion  which  it  gives  to  the  sufferer,  but 
especially  by  the  aggravated  ibrm  of  the  attack,  and  by  the 
circumstance  that  it  is  invariably  attended  with  the  "  black 
vomit,"  which  generally  occurs  just  before  the  patient  expires. 
It  is  worthy  of  remark,  however,  that  this  awful  pestilence  is 
unknown  in  the  interior  of  the  country  ;  and,  we  believe,  it  has 
never  yet  made  its  appearance  so  far  east  as  the  coast  of 
Guinea. 

The  writer  is  aware  that  very  different  and  conflicting 
accounts  have  been  given  by  diflerent  persons  as  to  the  real 
character  of  the  climate  of  Western  Africa  ;  and  he  is  anxious  to 
present,  as  far  as  possible,  an  impartial  view  of  the  subject, 
without  going  to  either  of  the  extremes  into  which  he  conceives 
some  others  have  been  betrayed.  It  has  sometimes  occurred 
that  a  naval  or  military  officer  has  visited  the  coast,  in  the 
middle  of  the  dry  season,  when  everything  wore  the  appearance 
of  health  and  activity ;  and,  being  charmed  with  the  natural 
scenery,  he  has  returned  to  England,  after  a  brief  sojourn,  and 
published  an  account  of  his  travels,  eulogizing  the  country  in 
the  most  unqualified  terras,  and  scouting  the  idea  of  the  un- 
healthiness  of  the  climate.  Had  such  a  transient  visitor 
remained  on  the  coast  all  the  year  round,  his  views  might  have 

c 


18  PARTI. — WESTERIS-    AFRICA. 

been  considerably  modified.  Oa  the  other  hand,  a  traveller 
visits  the  coast  at  the  most  sickly  season  of  the  year,  and  is 
naturally  appalled  at  the  scenes  of  sickness  and  death  which  he 
beholds.  lie  narrowly  escapes  with  his  life,  and  brings  an  evil 
report  of  the  land ;  declaring  that  the  country  is  not  fit  for 
Europeans  to  inhabit ;  and  that  all  the  Missions,  and  even  the 
British  settlements  themselves,  ought  to  be  at  once  and  for  ever 
abandoned.  After  many  years  of  personal  experience  in  this 
and  other  tropical  countries,  and  after  having  had  the  fever 
scores  of  times,  we  are  of  opinion  that  whilst  the  climate  of 
"Western  Africa  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  worst  in  the  world,  it 
is  not  so  bad  as  to  render  hopeless  our  best  efi'orts  to  neutralize, 
in  some  degree,  its  baneful  influence,  and  to  grapple  success- 
fully with  the  difficulties  with  which  we  have  to  contend  in  our 
endeavours  to  extend  the  blessings  of  Christian  civilization  to 
this  interesting,  but  long-neglected,  country. 

The  following  facts  and  figures  are  respectfully  submitted,  as 
illustrative  of  the  true  character  of  the  climate  of  Western 
Africa.  In  the  course  of  twenty  years,  from  ISO!  to  1824,  the 
Church  Missionary  Society  sent  out  to  Sierra  Leone  eighty-five 
Missionaries,  and  during  this  period  fifty-four  died,  and  fourteen 
returned  to  England  with  shattered  health.  In  1835,  theie 
remained  on  the  station  only  three  Missionaries  and  two  Cate- 
chists,  out  of  one  hundred  and  nine  labourers  who  had  been 
sent  out  durintr  the  preceding  thirty  years.  The  experience  of 
the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  is  not  very  dissimilar.  During 
t  venty  years,  from  1824  to  1844,  this  institution  sent  out  to 
Sierra  Leone,  Cape  Coast,  and  the  Gambia,  eighty-six  labourers ; 
and  during  this  period  forty-two  were  removed  by  death,  whilst 
several  were  compelled  to  return  home  on  account  of  the 
fcdlure  of  their  health.  Thus  it  will  be  seen  that  the  loss 
sustained  by  each  of  these  great  Societies  in  a  course  of  years 
was  above  fifty  per  cent.,  or  rather  more  than  one-half  of  the 
whole  that  were  sent  out.  In  1823,  from  January  to  June, 
seventy-seven  Europeans  died  at  Sierra  Leone ;  and  in  the  same 
colony  four  Governors  died  in  seven  years,  from  1825  to  18B2. 

If  we  were  in  a  position  to  give  the  statistics  of  the  army 
and  navy  connected  with  the  coast  of  Africa,  we  h.ave  reason  to 


CHAP.  I. CHARACTER  OF  THE  COUNTRY.        19 

fear  that  the  result  would  be  still  more  appalling.  We  have 
known  a  large  number  of  raw  recruits  in  the  army  carried  off 
by  fever  during  the  first  rainy  season  after  their  arrival.  Since 
it  was  found  that  such  awful  mortality  occurred  among  European 
troops  in  former  years,  the  plan  has  been  adopted  of  raising  and 
employing  regiments  of  native  soldiers,  commanded  by  Euro- 
pean officers  :  and  it  seems  to  answer  well,  as  the  officers  are  in 
a  position  to  adopt  precautionary  measures  for  the  preservation 
of  their  health  which  are  not  always  within  the  reach  of 
privates,  to  say  nothing  of  the  recklessness  with  which  the 
course  of  a  common  sohlitr  is  too  fretpientl}^  distinguished.* 
Sailors  on  board  Her  Majesty's  ships  of  war  on  the  coast  are 
seldom  allowed  to  go  on  shore,  and  great  attention  is  paid  to 
their  health  and  comfoit.  British  seamen  in  the  raercantile 
service  fare  much  worse.  They  are  frequently  employed  in  hard 
labour,  loading  or  unloading  their  vessels,  during  the  day;  and 
at  night  they  are  unable  to  sleep  from  the  intense  heat  and  the 
attacks  of  the  mosquitoes.  Being  often  worn  out  for  want  of 
rest,  they  soon  become  a  prey  to  fever,  and  many  have  sunk  to 
rise  no  more.  We  have  known  the  whole  of  a  ship's  crew 
carried  off  in  a  few  days.  When  inquiry  was  made  as  to  the 
time  when  a  certain  vessel  would  sail  for  England,  that  letters 
might  be  sent  by  her,  the  answer  was,  "  The  '  Ann  Grant '  has 
been  laden  for  some  time,  but  she  cannot  come  down  the  river, 
all  hands  being  dead  !  "  It  is  not  without  reason  that  this 
country  has  been  called  "  the  white  man's  grave." 

But  the  question  has  frequently  been  put :  "  Has  not  the 
climate  of  Western  Africa  improved  of  late  years  ?  "  After 
attentive  observation  and  much  thought  upon  the  subject,  the 
writer  is  of  opinion  that  a  decided  improvement  has  taken 
place  ;  the  mortality  among  European  residents  being  much  less, 

*  From  statistical  returns  which  have  been  published  by  Governmeut,  it 
appears  that,  in  the  year  IS'H,  283  European  troops  were  seut  to  Western 
Africa,  making  the  total  number  on  the  coast  346;  of  whom  301  died  the 
same  year.  In  !  825,  1,154  European  troops  were  sent  out,  making  a 
total  on  the  coast  of  1,193  :  of  these  621  died.  In  the  most  favourable 
years  tlie  loss  by  death  in  the  regiments  composed  of  British  soldiers  has 
seldom  been  less  than  one  half  the  whole  number,  whilst  in  those  composed 
of  native  troops  the  deaths  have  only  averaged  about  one  in  twenty-six, 

C    JJ 


20  PART    I. — WESTERN   AFRICA. 

in  proportion  to  the  number,  than  formerly.  The  cause  of  this 
improvement  is  to  be  found,  not  in  any  actual  chan^^e  in  the 
seasons,  but  in  the  purer  state  of  the  atmosphere,  occasioned 
by  the  clearing  and  draining  of  the  ground,  which  has  taken 
place  in  the  neighbourhood  of  some  of  the  settlements.  It 
must  also  be  noted  that  African  fevers  are  now  better  under- 
stood than  formerly,  and  consequently  treated  with  greater  skill, 
and  more  general  success.  As  experience  and  observation  are 
further  extended,  we  may  hope  that  still  greater  improvement 
will  be  realized,  till  a  sojourn  in  Western  Afiica  will  no  longer 
be  regarded  with  serious  apprehension  as  to  the  life  or  health  of 
those  whom  it  concerns. 

When  we  contemplate  the  difficulties  arising  from  the  un- 
healthiness  of  the  climate,  and  are  tem])ted  to  regard  them  as 
calculated  to  discourage,  if  not  to  paralyse,  Christian  effort  on 
behalf  of  the  country  as  a  whole,  we  must  not  forget  that 
hitherto  our  experience  in  these  matters  has  been  chiefly  con- 
fined to  the  coast;  and  that  it  is  a  well  auihenticated  fact  that, 
as  we  proceed  further  into  the  interior,  where  the  land  is  more 
elevated  and  dry,  the  liability  to  disease  and  death  is  not  near 
so  great  as  in  the  low  swampy  districts  bordering  on  the 
Atlantic.  This  circumstance  would  seem  to  point  to  the  possi- 
bility of  forming  interior  stations  in  high  and  comparatively 
healthy  situations,  to  which  Missionaries  and  others  might 
resort,  to  avoid  the  fatal  influence  of  the  epidemic,  which 
appears  in  the  form  of  yellow  fever,  as  well  as  to  recruit  their 
strength  when  worn  down  by  sickness,  when  a  change  of  air  is 
of  so  much  importance.  Thus  we  see  there  is  no  room  for 
despair,  but  ample  reasons  why  the  missionary  enterprise  should 
be  prosecuted  with  unabated  zeal  and  earnestness.  Perhaps 
there  was  never  a  Missionary  sent  to  Western  Africa,  who  ever 
regretted  for  one  moment,  in  life  or  in  death,  that  he  had  left 
his  native  land  in  this  good  work.  One  noble-minded  man, 
whom  we  knew,  said  to  his  most  intimate  friend  when  leaving 
home,  "  I  go  to  the  land  of  death  ;  but,  if  I  die,  you  must  come 
and  wa'ite  my  epitaph  !  "  It  was  asked,  "  What  shall  I  write?  " 
"  Write,"  said  the  Missionary,  "  '  Thour/h  a  thomand  fall,  let 
NOT  Africa  be  forgotten  ! '  "     Many  have  fallen,  and   have 


CHAP.    I. — CHARACTER    OF    THE    COUNTRY.  21 

found  a  grave  in  African  soil ;  but  the  work  of  evangelizing 
Africa  will  never  be  relinquished.  As  Abraham  took  formal 
possession  of  Canaan,  when  he  committed  to  the  silent  grave 
the  remains  of  the  dear  departed  ones,  so  have  we,  in  a  sense, 
taken  formal  possession  of  Africa  for  Christ,  by  committing  to 
the  silent  dust  the  remains  of  so  many  of  our  dear  brethren  and 
sisters,  who  have  fallen  a  sacrifice  to  the  climate.  "  i'recious 
in  the  sight  of  the  Lord  is  the  death  of  His  saints." 

This  chapter  may  be  appropriately  concluded  with  a  few 
practical  observations,  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  may  proceed 
to  Western  Africa  as  Christian  Missionaries,  or  in  any  other 
capacity.  During  the  voyage  it  will  be  found  necessary  to 
resort  to  the  light  clothing  generally  provided  for  warm  cli- 
mates ;  and  we  strongly  recommend  tfiat  flannel  be  always  worn 
next  to  the  skin.  By  its  absorbing  qualities,  the  flannel  vest  is 
the  best  safeguard  against  those  sudden  checks  of  perspiration, 
which  are  so  damaging  to  health  in  tropical  climates.  On 
arriving  in  Africa,  all  unnecessary  exposure  to  the  night  air 
should  be  carefully  avoided,  as  the  dews  and  fogs  are  most  per- 
nicious. Jt  may  be  desirable,  also,  to  take  a  little  aperient 
medicine  on  landing  ;  but  the  best  mode  of  regulating  the 
bowels,  and  keeping  the  system  cool  and  regular,  is  by  careful 
attention  to  diet.  It  will  be  well  to  observe  what  agrees  best 
with  the  stomach,  and  to  avoid  as  much  as  possible  every  thing 
which  is  difficult  of  digestion,  heating,  or  astringent ;  as  pastry, 
cheese,  and  pickles,  &o.  With  regard  to  the  beverages  which 
are  best  adapted  to  meet  the  requirements  of  man,  in  a  country 
where  thirst  is  such  a  frequently  recurring  circumstance,  we 
feel  some  difficulty  as  to  what  is  really  the  best  course  to  pur- 
sue. From  many  years'  personal  experience  of  the  advantages 
of  total  abstinence  from  all  intoxicating  drinks,  even  in  tropical 
climates,  and  amid  arduous  labours,  we  should  be  inclined  to 
recommend  the  adoption  of  this  principle  fully  in  Western 
Africa,  did  we  not  call  to  mind  the  vile  character  of  the  water 
in  that  country.  We  have  no  hesitation,  however,  in  giving  our 
opinion,  that  the  less  of  alcoholic  mixture  is  used,  even  in  a  medi- 
cinal form,  to  counteract  the  pernicious  eflect  of  bad  water, 
the  better.       Tea  and   coflee   will  be  found  more   refreshing 


22  PART    I. WESTERN    AFRICA. 

and  less  injurious  than  any  kind  of  intoxicating  drink  in  com- 
mon Vise. 

To  Christian  Missionaries  g:oing  forth  to  AVestern  Africa,  we 
would  say,  above  all  thinsfs  guard  against  fear  !  Trust  in  God, 
and  cherish  an  unwavering  confidence  in  His  ever  watchful 
Providence.  A  high  degree  of  sanctified  moral  courage  is  the 
])est  pre^rvative  against  fever,  disease,  and  death,  in  all  their 
diversified  forms.  Many  have  died,  it  is  true,  but  many  have 
lived.  Prepare  for  the  worst,  and  hope  for  the  best.  Yea, 
believe  for  the  best ;  and  say,  with  David,  "  I  shall  not  die,  but 
live  to  declare  the  wonderful  works  of  the  Lord." 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE  NATIVE  POPULATION. 

Jalloffs — Manclinsroes  —  Foolas — Moors — Fellatas — Yarribaus — Asliantis 
— Fantis  —  Dahomans — M  inor  Tribes — Goverumeut  —  Penalties — ■ 
IMumbo  Jumbo — Marriages — Polygamy — Houses — Furniture — Food  — 
Dress — Commerce — Currency — Manufactures — Religion — Moliamnied- 
auism — Paganism — Superstitions — Greegrees — Fetish — Human  Sacri- 
fices— Devil  Worship— Cannibalism. 

However  great  the  pleasure  with  which  we  trace  the  cha- 
racter and  natural  features  of  a  foreign  land,  if  we  have  learned 
to  appreciate  the  blessings  of  Christian  civilization,  we  shall 
regard  with  feelings  of  still  greater  interest  the  condition, 
habits,  and  manners  of  the  people  by  whom  the  country  is  in- 
habited ;  especially  if  we  cherish,  as  we  ought  to  do,  an  earnest 
desire  to  aid  in  extending  to  them  the  blessings  of  the  Gospel 
which  we  ourselves  enjoy. 

Western  Africa  is  inhabited  by  various  tribes  of  the  Negro 
race,  resembling  each  other  in  many  respects,  and  yet  possess- 
ing traits  of  character  sufficiently  distinctive  to  render  a  brief 
description  of  each  desirable.  It  would  be  difficult  to  describe 
every  nation  and  tribe  of  people  inhabiting  those    extensive 


CHAP.    II. THE    NATIVE    POPULATION.  23 

regions;  for  they  are  very  numerous.  Whilst  resident  there,  we 
obtained  specimens  of  thirty  different  langnages  spoken  in  the 
country;  and  many  more  might,  no  doubt,  have  been  procured. 
J3ut  we  shall  endeavour  to  give  some  account  of  those  only 
which  are  most  prominent,  and  then  proceed  to  notice  some 
particulars  relating  to  the  manners  and  customs  which  may  be 
regarded  as  common  to  nearly  all  the  tribes  which  have  come 
under  our  observation. 

If  we  spread  before  us  the  map  of  Western  Africa,  and  com- 
mence our  survey  at  the  north,  we  first  meet  with  the  Jalloffs,  a 
numferous  people,  inhabiiing  a  considerable  portion  of  the 
country  lying  between  the  Senegal  and  the  Gambia.  They  are 
generally  tall  of  stature,  but  not  remarkably  robust.  They  are 
a  hardy,  daring,  warlike  race  of  men,  however ;  industrious  in 
their  habits,  sociable  in  their  manners,  and  more  intelligent  than 
most  of  the  other  Negro  tribes.  The  Jallofi'  language  is  some- 
what harsh  and  gutteral  in  its  tones  ;  but,  when  brought  into 
the  service  of  the  sanctuary  by  converted  natives,  as  we  have 
had  the  pleasure  of  hearing  it,  it  is  remarkably  pathetic  and 
impressive.  Our  first  translation  into  this  dialect  was  the 
Wesleyan  Conlerence  first  Catechism,  which  we  have  heard  the 
Mission  School  children  repeat  in  a  delightful  manner. 

The  next  tribe  we  come  to  is  that  of  the  Mandingoes,  who 
are  found  on  both  banks  of  the  Gambia,  as  well  as  in  tiie  king- 
doms of  Manding  and  Bambarra,  through  which  the  celebrated 
Mungo  Park  travelled  in  his  journeys  to  the  Niger.  These 
]>eopie  are  almost  invariably  tall,  muscular,  and  well  formed, 
with  features  somewhat  shai'per  than  their  neighbours  the 
Jalloffs.  Their  disposition  is  generally  friendly  and  hospitable  ; 
and,  when  travelling  alone  and  unprotected  among  them,  we 
have  always  been  treated  with  civility  and  respect,  and  never 
felt  the  slightest  fear  of  molestation.  Altogether  we  regard  the 
JNTandingoes  as  the  noblest  specimens  of  the  African  race  that 
we  have  met  with  ;  and  the  few  that  have  been  brought  under 
the  influence  of  the  Gospel,  have  been  remarkable  for  their  zeal 
and  earnestness  in  the  cause  of  God.  The  Mandingo  language 
is  peculiarly  soft  and  mellow  in  its  tones  ;  and  on  hearing  it 
spoken  we  have  been  reminded  of  the  Italian.     It  is  said,  how- 


24;  PART   I. WESTERN    AFRICA. 

ever,  to  be  somewhat  cramped  and  confined,  when  applied  to 
reh'o'ious  purposes.  This  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  when  it  is 
remembered  that,  till  the  arrival  of  the  Missionaries,  it  had 
never  been  reduced  to  (grammatical  form,  or  employed  in  any 
way  in  the  service  of  God.  With  the  aid  of  some  intelligent 
natives,  the  Kev.  E.  M.  MacBrair  succeeded  in  translating  the 
Gospel  according  to  St.  Matthew  into  Mandingo,  as  well  as  in 
forming  a  short  Grammar  of  the  language. 

In  immediate  contact  with  the  tribes  just  mentioned,  we  have 
tlie  Pastoral  Foolas.  As  they  are  found  in  the  regions  of  Sene- 
gambia,  these  are  a  simple,  inoffensive  people.  They  make  no 
pretentions  to  a  right  in  the  soil,  but  live  by  mere  sufferance 
among  the  Jalloflfs  and  Mandingoes,  to  whose  Kings  or  Chiefs 
tliey  pay  tribute  for  the  privilege  of  pasturing  their  cattle.  By 
these  petty  despots  they  are  often  severely  oppressed,  and 
sometimes  robbed  of  all  they  possess ;  yet  they  seldom  com- 
plain, but  travel  from  place  to  place  with  their  herds,  as  occa- 
sion requires,  subsisting  entirely  on  the  milk  of  their  flocks. 
The  Pastoral  Foolas  have  a  tradition  among  themselves,  that 
they  originally  sprang  from  a  white  man,  who  settled  in  their 
country ;  and,  whether  there  be  any  real  foundation  for  this 
tradition  or  not,  it  is  a  remarkable  fact  that  they  have  a  striking 
resemblance  to  Europeans,  not  only  in  their  complexion,  which 
is  comparatively  fair,  l)ut  also  in  their  general  aspect  and 
features  ;  being  destitute  of  the  flat  nose,  thick  lips,  and  retirhig 
forehead,  which  distinijuish  most  of  the  other  African  tribes. 
These  people  never  pray,  neither  are  they  addicted  to  many 
pagan  superstitious  rites,  so  common  among  the  Negroes  gene- 
rally ;  and  their  highest  idea  of  virtue  is  to  refrain  from  fighting, 
and  to  live  in  peace  with  all  men.  A  laudable  and  well-meant 
attempt  to  extend  the  blessings  of  Christian  civilization  to  this 
singular  people  was  made  several  years  ago,  which  will  be 
noticed  in  the  course  of  our  narrative. 

We  may  here  mention  the  Teucolars  and  the  Loubies,  who 
are  generally  regarded  as  petty  tribes  of  Foolas,  in  consequence 
of  their  speaking  the  same  language,  though  ditt'ering  entirely  in 
many  respects  from  them.  The  first-named  people  resendjle 
the   Mandingoes  in  appearance,  character,  and  prowess.     They 


CHAP.  II. — THE  NATIVE  POPULATION.         25 

are  not  a  wandering  people  like  the  Pastoral  Poolas,  but  have 
established  themselves  in  several  powerful  states,  the  principal 
of  which  are  Foota-Toro,  on  the  south  of  the  Senegal ;  Foota- 
Jallon,  adjacent  to  Sierra  Leone  ;  Foota-Doo,  or  Country  of  the 
Foolas,  VVassela,  and  Missina.  The  Teucolars  are  Mohammedans, 
and  are  frequently  designated  learned  Foolas.  The  Loubies 
are  a  degenerate  race,  stunted  in  growth,  and  haggard  in  ap- 
pearance ;  and  yet  they  speak  the  Foola  tongue.  They  possess 
neither  towns  nor  cattle,  but  wander  about  from  place  to  place 
with  wooden  bowls  and  other  utensils,  which  they  manufacture 
at  their  leisure,  and  sell  to  the  Mandingoes.  From  their  appear- 
ance, character,  and  habits,  the  Loubies  may  be  regarded  as  the 
Gypsies  of  Western  Africa.  The  Foola  language  is  somewhat 
peculiar  in  its  structure,  and  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  the 
Kaffir  of  South  Africa,  with  the  exception  of  the  clicks,  which 
some  think  have  been  borrowed  from  the  Hottentots,  in  com- 
paratively recent  times.*  It  would  be  interesting  to  pursue  the 
subject,  if  our  space  and  the  design  of  this  work  permitted  us 
to  do  so,  as  there  appear  to  be  many  circumstances  which  point 
to  an  identity  of  origin  of  African  tribes  so  far  apart  from  each 
other  as  the  Foolas  of  the  West  and  the  Kaffirs  of  the  South. 
Some  learned  men  are  of  opinion  that  both  these  tribes  have 
had  an  eastern  or  Malay  origin ;  but  the  question  seems  involved 
in  profound  mystery. 

♦  The  following  are  specimens  of  the  languages  spoken  by  the  three 
principal  native  tribes  with  which  we  came  in  contact  on  the  banks  of  the 
Gambia  :  — 


ENGLISH. 

JALLOFF. 

MAKDINGO. 

FOOLA. 

One 

Ben 

Kil-ing 

Go 

Two 

Ni-ar 

Fu-la 

Ui-da 

Three 

Ni-at 

Sa-bi 

Tut 

Tour 

Ni-an-at 

Na-ni 

Na-i 

Five 

Dur-rom 

Lu-lu 

Je-i 

Six 

Dur-rom- 

ben 

Uoru 

Je-ga 

Seven 

Uur-roui- 

•ni-ar 

Uo-ru-la 

Je-di 

Eight 

Dur-rom- 

■ni-at 

Se-i 

Je-tut 

Kine 

Dur-rom' 

■ni-an-at 

Ko-nun-to 

Je-ua-i 

Ten 

Fuk 

Tong 

Sap-o 

26  PAKT    I. — WESTEllN    AFRICA. 

We  must  now  direct  the  attention  of  the  reader  to  the  Moors 
of  Western  Africa  ;  for,  although  this  is  not  their  original  home, 
here  they  are  in  vast  numbers,  and  in  superior  power  and  force. 
Among  these  people  are  to  be  found  the  principal  native  mer- 
chants or  traders  of  the  country,  who  travel  extensively  in  the 
prosecution  of  their  special  vocation.  They  may  be  seen  cross- 
ing the  sandy  deserts  in  caravans,  with  their  camels  laden  with 
merchandise,  and  drivir;g  flocks  of  poor  hapless  slaves  to  the 
market.  Those  who  are  more  settled  in  their  habits  have 
established  themselves  in  the  far-famed  city  of  Timbuctoo,  and 
other  large  towns  on  the  banks  of  the  Niger.  The  Moors  are 
not  of  pure  Negro  l)lood,  but  a  mixture  of  the  Arab  and  African 
races.  Tiiey  are  rigid  Mohammedans,  and  use  the  Arabic  lan- 
guage in  their  ordinary  intercourse  with  each  other,  as  well  as 
in  their  religious  exercises.  In  feature  and  complexion  the 
Moors  have  a  strong  eastern  cast,  and  are  generally  more  intel- 
ligent than  their  neighbours.  This  superiority  they  make  known 
in  an  unmistakeable  manner  by  their  acts  of  cruelty  and  oppres- 
sion. Not  only  have  the  feebler  tribes  of  Western  Africa  suf- 
fered much  from  the  tyrannical  conduct  of  the  Moors ;  but 
inoffensive  travellers  have  also  been  the  subject  of  their  treachery. 
Mungo  Park  was  long  kept  a  prisoner  by  them,  and  was  not 
only  cruelly  treated,  but  robbed  of  all  that  he  possessed. 
Major  Houghton  met  with  his  death  at  their  hands;  and, 
although  Dr.  Barth  in  his  recent  journey  gained  access  to 
Timbuctoo,  tlie  Moors  took  care  that  he  should  see  as  little  as 
possible  of  the  place  ;  so  that  his  account  of  the  mysterious  city 
is  necessarily  brief  and  imperfect. 

On  proceeding  southward,  down  the  river  Niger,  we  meet 
with  the  Eellatas,  a  numerous  and  powerful  tribe  of  people, 
whose  locality  cannot  be  accurately  defined,  as  they  are  perpetu- 
ally on  the  move.  Some  travellers  assert  that  the  Fellatas  are 
identical  Avith  the  Foolas,  and  that  their  warlike  character  and 
general  superiority  to  that  soft  and  effeminate  people  is  owing 
entirely  to  difference  of  circumstances.  Be  this  as  it  may,  it  is 
evident  that  the  Fellatas  on  the  banks  of  the  Niger  have  for 
many  years  pushed  forward  in  aggressive  and  successful  warfare 
on  the  less  powerful  tribes,  till  they  now  occupy  an  influential 


CHAP.    II. — THE    NATIVE    POPULATION.  27 

and  commnndint^  position  in  many  districts,  where  their  name 
was  formerly  unknown.  They  have  carried  their  victories  as 
far  as  Yarriba  and  Borgoo,  and  established  tliemselves  in  many 
important  native  towns  and  cities,  reducing  the  people  every- 
where to  a  state  of  abject  slavery,  after  the  example  of  the 
Moors  in  the  northern  districts  of  the  vast  continent.  In  the 
opinions  of  the  Landers,  the  Pellata  females  are  generally  pos- 
sessed of  peculiar  charms,notwithstanding  their  sable  complexion; 
and,  in  their  intelligence,  carriage,  and  demeanour,  they  are 
much  superior  to  those  of  any  other  tribe  in  Western  Africa. 
The  same  travellers  give  a  favourable  report  of  the  men  also. 
"When  not  actually  engaged  in  war,  they  describe  them  as 
•'  active,  intelligent,  mild,  and  humane."  The  Fellatas  entertain 
a  high  opinion  of  their  own  prowess,  and  boldly  declare  that 
"they  ccuid  conquer  the  whole  world,  if  the  salt  water  did  not 
prevent  them." 

The  next  people  that  claim  our  attention  are  the  Yarrilmns. 
This  numerous  and  powerful  tribe  of  native  Africans  inhabit  an 
extensive  plain,  the  western  border  of  which  is  within  a  hundred 
miles  of  the  coast,  and  extends  eastward  nearly  to  the  river 
Niger.  The  land  is  described  as  remarkably  fertile,  and  tole- 
rably well  cultivated,  producing  Indian  corn,  millet,  yams,  rice, 
cotton,  and  indigo.  The  capital  of  Yarriba  is  Eyeo,  which 
Clapperton  describes  as  a  large  and  populous  city,  fifteen  miles 
in  circumference,  and  supplied  with  seven  large  markets.  But 
when  we  read  of  African  towns  and  cities  embracing  within 
their  walls  such  large  tracts  of  ground,  it  must  always  be 
remembered  that  extensive  fields  and  gardens  are  generally 
included  in  these  vast  enclosures,  to  enable  the  people  to  endure 
a  long  siege  in  the  event  of  war ;  so  that  the  amount  of  popula- 
tion, though  frequently  large,  is  not  always  in  proportion  to  the 
space  occupied  by  the  town  in  which  they  live.  The  King  of 
Eyeo  gave  to  Clapperton  a  grand  reception  in  his  mud-built 
palace.  His  sable  majesty  was  seated  on  a  mat,  surrounded  by 
his  councillors  and  a  host  of  his  wives,  which  the  traveller 
endeavoured  in  vain  to  number.  The  King  inquired  how  many 
wives  the  King  of  England  possessed,  with  a  view  to  form  a 
proper  estimate  ol  his  power  and  greatness ;  but  when  informed 


28  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

that  he  had  only  one,  the  whole  company  gave  themselves  up  to 
a  lon<^  and  ungovernable  tit  of  laughter.  The  Monarch  of 
Yarriba  could  boast  that  his  wives,  linked  hand  in  hand,  would 
reach*  across  his  kingdom.  Queens  in  Africa  are,  however, 
applied  to  various  uses  of  which  Europeans  have  little  idea. 
For  example  :  in  Yarriba  some  of  them  formed  a  band  of  body- 
guards to  the  King ;  while  others  were  observed  in  various 
parts  of  the  kingdom  acting  as  traders  and  as  porters,  bearing 
on  their  heads  enormous  burdens.  Hence  they  might  be  more 
properly  called  slaves  than  Queens.  The  Yarribans,  like  all  the 
other  purely  Negro  tribes  that  we  have  met  with,  are  totally 
unacquainted  with  letters  or  writing  in  any  form  :  they  are 
nevertheless  remarkably  clever  in  the  composition  of  extempo- 
raneous songs,  which  they  recite  and  sing  with  great  spirit  on 
special  occasions.  They  pride  themselves  in  not  being  addicted 
to  the  horrid  bloody  customs  of  the  neighbouring  nations,  in 
putting  to  death  a  large  number  of  people  in  connexion  with 
the  funeral  ceremonies  of  departed  Chiefs  ;  but  they  admit  that 
on  these  solemn  occasions  it  is  usual  for  several  councillors  and 
wives  of  the  deceased  voluntarily  to  take  poison,  that  they  may 
accompany  the  royal  personage,  and  attend  upon  him  in  the 
invisible  world. 

The  most  numerous,  powerful,  and  warlike  people  with  vvhich 
we  are  acquainted  in  Western  Africa,  are  the  Ashantis.  They 
may  be  called  a  nation  rather  than  a  tribe ;  for,  although  en- 
tirely unacquainted  with  European  civilization  when  they  were 
first  brought  to  our  notice,  they  had  attained,  by  dint  of  their 
own  native  energy,  to  a  position  as  to  arts,  agriculture,  com- 
merce, and  war,  far  above  the  most  advanced  native  tribes  on 
the  continent.  The  Ashantis,  who,  according  to  the  estimate 
of  some  travellers,  amount  to  four  millions,  occupy  a  vast  tract 
of  country  in  the  interior  regions  of  the  coast  of  Guinea,  of  not 
less  than  sixty  thousand  square  miles,  commencing  at  the  river 
Volta,  and  extending  over  four  degrees  of  longitude,  with  an 
equal  breadth  inland  from  the  borders  of  the  Fanti  territory. 
The  first  mention  which  we  find  of  this  remarkable  people  is 
early  in  the  last  century,  when  the  traveller,  Mr.  Lucas,  whilst 
at  Tripoli,  heard  of  Kumasi,  the  capital  of  x\.shanti,   as  the 


CHAP.  II. — THE  NATITE  POPULATION.         29 

destination  of  the  caravans  which  were  leaving  that  city 
during-  his  sojourn  there.  Being  separated  from  the  mari- 
time districts  of  the  coast  of  Guinea  by  Aguambo,  Dinkira, 
and  other  powerful  states,  the  Ashantis  did  not  come  in  contact 
with  the  European  settlements  till  the  commencement  of  the 
present  century.  About  this  period  these  tribes  were  obliged 
to  give  way  before  the  growing  power  of  the  Ashanti  empire, 
whose  mighty  host  of  warriors  carried  all  before  them,  till  they 
reached  the  borders  of  the  country  occupied  by  the  Fantis,  the 
principal  tribe  of  natives  on  the  Gold  Coast.  The  whole  terri- 
torv  having  been  laid  waste  by  the  invaders,  the  timid  Fantis 
made  a  stand  at  Anamabo  with  nine  thousand  men  ;  but  these 
were  completely  vanquished  by  the  King  of  Ashanti,  who  came 
upon  them  with  fifteen  thousand  of  his  choice  warriors.  The 
Fantis  were  routed  and  put  to  death  at  the  first  onset,  with 
the  exception  of  a  few  who  sought  protection  in  the  British 
fort. 

]t  is  not  our  purpose  to  pursue  in  detail  the  history  of  the 
Ashanti  wars  which  followed,  and  in  which  England  figured, 
alas  !  too  prominently.  Suffice  it  to  say,  that  in  one  of  these 
contests  Sir  Charles  Macarthy,  the  esteemed  Governor  of  Cape 
Coast  Castle,  lost  his  life,  having  under-estimated  the  strength 
of  the  enemy,  and  rushed  into  the  heat  of  the  battle,  hoping  to 
bring  it  to  a  speedy  conclusion.  It  was  not  till  the  arrival  of 
the  British  embassy  at  the  capital  of  Ashanti,  to  make  pacific 
arrangements  with  the  King,  in  1817,  that  the  real  character 
and  power  of  this  remarkable  people  were  ascertained.  The 
narratives  published  by  Bowdich,  Dupuis,  and  others,  are  of 
fearful  interest.  These  gentlemen  were  struck  with  the  barbaric 
pomp  and  splendour  of  the  sable  Monarch.  They  found  his 
numerous  attendants  profusely  laden  with  ornaments  of  gold, 
whilst  the  most  common  articles  in  daily  use  were  made  of  the 
precious  metal.  They  saw  the  royal  executioner  with  his  hatchet 
on  his  breast,  and  the  fatal  stool  stained  with  blood  before  him, 
ready,  at  the  sound  of  the  death-drum,  to  do  his  fearful  work  ; 
and  they  ascertained  that  the  King  had  recently  immolated  on  the 
grave  of  his  mother  three  hundred  victims,  two  hundred  of  whom 
were  Fanti  prisoners  taken  in  the  recent  war.     At  the  death  of 


30  PART   I.— WESTERN    AFRICA. 

a  late  Sovereign,  tlie  sacrifices  were  continued  weekly  for  three 
months,  consisting,  each  time,  of  two  hundred  slaves. 

The  statements  of  the  British  Ambassadors  to  the  King  of 
Ashanti  have  been  amply  confirmed  by  a  more  intimate  acquaint- 
ance with  the  people  and  the  country  since  the  establishment  of 
peace,  and  the  appointment  of  Christian  Missionaries  to  labour 
in  the  capital.  And,  although  no  very  marked  results  have  as 
yet  followed  the  benevolent  efforts  which  have  been  put  forth  to 
evangelize  these  barbarous  but  interesting  jieople  ;  we  cannot 
but  hope  for  ultimate  success,  when  we  remember  that  the  King 
has  been  so  far  impressed  in  favour  of  the  English,  as  to  send 
two  of  his  nephews  to  be  educated  in  this  country,  one  of 
whom  has  already  returned  to  his  native  land  as  a  messenger  of 
the  Gospel  to  his  fellow-countr^/men. 

The  Fantis,  although  far  inferior  in  courage  and  power  to 
their  neighbours  the  Ashantis,  are,  nevertheless,  a  numerous 
and  important  tribe  of  natives,  and  are  supposed  to  number 
about  one  million.  They  owe  their  very  existence  to  the  kindly 
influence  of  tlie  English  at  Cape  Coast  Castle,  which  is  situated 
in  their  territory  ;  for,  had  they  been  left  to  themselves,  they 
must  have  perished  long  ago,  as  did  many  other  tribes,  before 
their  barbarous  and  powerful  enemies.  The  country  occupied 
by  the  Eantis  extends  along  the  Gold  Coast  for  nearly  two 
hundred  miles,  and  reaches  inland  to  the  river  Prah,  on  the 
southern  frontier  of  the  Ashanti  country.  The  land  is  generally 
fertile,  and  in  many  places  well  cultivated.  Populous  and 
thriving  villages  are  met  with  in  every  direction,  most  of  which 
have  of  late  years  been  supplied  with  Christian  instruction  by 
the  agency  of  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society.  A  marked 
improvement  in  the  condition  of  the  people  has,  in  many  places, 
already  appeared  ;  and,  by  means  of  the  fostering  care  of  the 
British  Government,  and  the  zealous  labours  of  the  INIission- 
aries,  we  may  reasonably  anticipate  still  greater  good  in  time  to 
come. 

Immediately  bordering  on  the  countries  already  mentioned,  we 
find  another  powerful  and  important  tribe  of  native  Africans, 
the  Didiomans;  and  for  warlike  aggression  and  ferocious  cruelty, 
they  may  be  classed  with  their  still  more  powerful  neighbours 


CHAP.  II.— THE  NATIVE  POPULATIOX.  31 

the  Asliantis  The  savag-e  character  of  this  people  was  first 
brought  to  the  notice  of  Europeans  by  Mr.  Norris,  who  took  a 
journey  tlirouo^h  the  country,  and  paid  a  visit  to  the  King  of 
Dahorai,  at  Abomi  his  capital,  for  the  purpose  of  extending' 
trade  and  coraraerce,  in  the  year  1772.  This  gentleman,  as 
well  as  Mr.  Dalzel  and  others,  who  afterwards  visited  Abomi, 
describe  scenes  of  cruelty  and  blood  similar  to  those  which  were 
witnessed  by  the  Ambassadors  and  the  Missionaries  at  Kumasi. 
Dalzel  informs  us  that  the  King's  body  guard  consists  of  a 
troop  of  armed  women.  "  Within  the  walls  of  the  different 
royal  palaces  in  Dahomi  are  immured  not  less  than  three  thou- 
sand women ;  several  hundreds  of  these  are  trained  to  the  use  of 
arms,  under  female  generals  and  officers,  appointed  by  the  King. 
These  female  warriors  are  regularly  exercised,  and  go  through 
their  evolutions  with  as  much  expertness  as  the  male  soldiers." 
The  King's  palace  at  Abomi  is  surrounded  by  a  substantial  clay 
wall,  about  twenty  feet  high,  the  top  of  which  is  ornamented 
with  human  skulls  elevated  on  small  wooden  stakes.*  Access 
to  the  interior  of  the  palace  is  generally  denied  to  Europeans  ; 
but  Mr.  Dalzel  once  visited  the  King  during  illness,  and  was 
admitted  to  his  bed-chamber,  a  detached  room  surrounded  by 
a  low  wall,  the  top  of  which  was  ornamented  with  human  jaw- 

*  Concerning  this  strange  ornamentation  of  the  walls  of  the  palace,  we 
find  the  following  awful  incident  recorded  in  Dalzel's  "  History  of  Dahomi." 
"  The  person  to  whom  the  mauageinent  of  this  business  was  committed, 
having  ntgltcted  )o  make  a  ])roi,tr  calculation  of  his  materials,  had  pro- 
ceeded too  far  in  his  work  when  he  found  that  there  would  not  be  a  suffi- 
cient number  of  skulls  to  adorn  the  whole  palace.  He  therefore  requested 
permission  to  begin  the  work  anew,  that  he  might,  by  placing  them  further 
apart,  complete  the  design  in  a  regular  manner.  But  the  King  would  by  no 
means  give  hisconsent  to  this  proposal,  observing  that  he  should  '  soon  find 
a  sufficient  number  of  Badagiy  heads  to  render  the  plan  perfectly  uniform.' 
The  operator,  therefore,  proceeded  with  the  work  till  the  skulls  were  all 
expended,  when  the  defective  part  of  the  wall  was  measured,  and  calculation 
made,  by  which  it  a])peared  tliat  one  hundred  and  tvjenty-seven  was  the 
number  w^auted  to  finish  this  extraordinary  embellishment.  The  prisons 
where  the  wretched  ca])tives  had  been  confined  \^ere  accordingly  thrown 
open,  and  the  requisite  number  of  victims  dragged  forth,  to  be  slaughtered 
in  cold  blcod  for  this  horrid  purpose." 


32  PART    I.  —  WESTERN    AFRICA. 

bones,  nnd  the  path  which  led  to  the  door  ^Yas  paved  with 
human  skulls. 

The  successive  King's  of  Dahomi  have  for  many  years  been 
the  cliief  promoters  of  the  accursed  slave  trade.  By  wagini^ 
perpetual  wars,  and  the  practice  of  kidnapping;,  they  have  been 
enabled  to  send  thousands  of  their  fellow  creatures  to  Whydah 
every  year,  for  shipment  to  foreign  countries,  notwithstanding 
tlie  vigilance  of  British  cruisers.  As  the  present  King  of 
Dahomi  has  recently  permitted  Missionaries  to  visit  him,  and  to 
introduce  Christianity  into  some  parts  of  the  country  ;  and  has 
even  hinted  that  he  might  be  induced  to  relinquish  the  slave 
trade,  if  he  were  sure  that  it  would  be  succeeded  by  legitimate  cou)- 
merce  ;  we  may  entertain  the  hope  that  these  habitations  of 
cruelty  will  ultiuiately  be  visited  with  the  light  of  the  Gospel. 
Our  anticipation  of  better  days  for  Dahomi  has  been  much 
encouraged  in  consequence  of  the  purchase  recently  made  l)y  the 
British  Government  of  a  small  territory  for  a  settlement  at 
Lagos,  a  port  and  island  in  the  Bight  of  Benin.  By  means  of 
this  arrangement,  a  salutary  check  will  be  imposed  upon  the 
inhuman  and  warlike  propensities  of  the  Daliomans  ;  whilst,  at 
the  same  time,  legitimate  commerce  and  missionary  labours  will 
receive  protection  and  encouragement  at  Abbeokuta,  Badagry, 
Lagos,  and  other  important  places  on  the  Slave  Coast. 

Besides  the  large  and  powerful  native  tribes  alieady  men- 
tioned, there  are  in  Western  Africa  many  other  separate  and 
independent  clans,  as  the  Feloops,  Egbas,  Cromantees,  Tim- 
mauees,  Loosoos,  Sarrawoollies,  Suliraas,  Kurankoes,  Krumen, 
&c. ;  a  description  of  which  miglit  be  interesting,  if  our  prescribed 
limits  allowed  the  attempt.  The  people  wdio  reside  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  coast,  and  have  been  frequently 
brought  into  contact  with  European  traders,  are  generally 
marked  by  superior  intelligence ;  and,  we  regret  to  add,  that 
they  are  too  frequently  distinguished  by  the  depravity  of  their 
morals.  They  soon  pick  up  a  few  sentences  of  broken  English, 
Spanish,  or  Portuguese  ;  but  the  first  wonis  that  they  learn  are 
often  nothing  better  than  oaths  and  curses.  The  prevalence  of 
the  slave  trade  in  the  Bight  of  Benin,  and  indeed  along  the 
whole  coast,  has  had    a    most  demoralizing  effect  upon  the 


CKAP.    II.  —  THE    NATIVE    POPULATION.  33 

natives ;  and  it  is  to  be  feared  that  those  of  our  countrymen 
who  have  been  enLJ:aged  in  shipping  pahn  oil,  and  in  other 
branches  of  legitimate  commerce,  have  not  taken  much  pains 
to  improve  the  character  of  those  with  whom  they  have  come  in 
contact. 

Many  amusing  incidents  might  be  related  of  the  native 
Chiefs  or  Kirgs,  at  the  principal  trading-places  on  the  coast, 
illustrative  of  the  ready  wit  and  pompons  display  of  these  semi- 
civilized  dignitaries.  As  a  specimen,  we  may  give  the  follow- 
ing from  the  "  West  African  Herald,"  of  February  8th,  1862, 
a  newspaper  printed  and  edited  entirely  by  native  Africans  at 
Cape  Coast : — "  In  pur  issue  of  the  24th  of  October  last,  we 
animadverted  with  some  severity  on  the  conduct  of  Peppel, 
King  of  Bonny,  who  had  recently  returned  to  that  place  in  a 
brig  called  the  'Beulah,'  from  England,  accompanied  by  some 
English  ladies  and  gentlemen,  whom  he  had  engaged  as  secre- 
taries and  ladies  of  honour,  &c.  All  these  persons  have  been 
nnder  the  necessity  of  finding  their  way  back  to  England  in  the 
best  manner  they  could.  There  were  nine  of  thera  altogether ; 
two  ladies  and  seven  gentlemen.  The  Secretary  to  his  Majesty, 
Mr.  Halcome,  was  to  have  £1,000  per  annum,  and  apartments 
in  the  palace  ;  and  the  others  were  to  receive  remnneration  for 
their  services  in  proportion.  These  unhappy  persons,  after 
arriving  at  Bonny,  finding  that  no  preparation  had  been  made 
for  their  accommodation,  remained  on  board  the  '  Beulah '  in 
the  river,  till  the  master  of  the  vessel.  Captain  Le  Marquand, 
declared  that  he  really  could  not  afford  to  feed  them  any  longer. 
They  then  applied  to  King  Peppel  for  some  of  their  pay,  when 
his  Majesty  coolly  offered  them  two  yams  each,  saying  that  this 
was  all  he  could  do  for  them.  As  it  now  became  plain  that  the 
whole  thing  was  a  delusion,  these  persons  proceeded  to  shift  for 
themselves,  in  the  best  way  they  could.  One  gentleman,  with 
his  wife,  found  a  home  with  Dr.  Ward,  agent  of  Messrs.  Per- 
cival  Brothers.  They  lived  three  months  with  this  gentleman, 
and  then  left  for  England  in  the  '  Star  of  the  Seas.'  Another 
gentleman  and  lady  went  home  per  '  Golden  Age,'  in  November. 
The  medical  officer.  Dr.  Munro,  went  to  Eernando  Po,  in  search 
of  occupation ;  and  the  rest  of  the  suite,  after  passing  some 

D 


34  PART    I. — "WESTERN    AFRICA., 

weeks  in  the  river,  subsisting  on  charity,  have  now  returned  to 

England  by  the  mail  steamer  '  Athenian.'  " 

This  strange  narrative  can  scarcely  be  read  without   a  feeling 

of  surprise  at  the  bold  audacity  of  the  sable  Monarch  in  making 

such  arrangements  for  his  mud-built  palace,  on  his  recent  visit 
to  England  ;  nor  less  so  at  the  simplicity  and  ignoiance  of  the 
parties  concerned,  in  allowing  themselves  to  be  thus  duped, 
under  the  impression  that  they  Avere  securing  lucrative  situa- 
tions at  an  African  court.  They  have  no  doubt  learned  a 
lesson  which  will  teach  them  to  consider  v/ell  the  character  of 
their  next  engagement. 

Such  is  a  brief  sketch  of  a  few  of  the  principal  tribes  of 
people  inhabiting  the  various  countries  of  Western  Africa, 
united  under  different  Chiefs,  and  speaking  different  dialects, 
and  yet  possessing  many  phases  of  character  in  common  with 
each  other.  Many  more  illustrations  might  have  been  given, 
but  perhaps  these  are  sufficient,  as  specimens  of  the  heterogeneous 
materials  of  which  the  population,  as  a  whole,  is  composed ; 
broken,  divided,  and  scattered  as  it  has  been  by  frequent  wars 
and  dissensions.  We  now  proceed  to  notice  some  particulars 
of  interest  concerning  the  people  generally. 

We  may  first  offer  a  few  remarks  respecting  the  kind  of 
government  that  generally  prevails  in  AVestern  Africa.  The 
people  are  in  a  barbarous  state,  it  is  true  ;  but  they  are  not 
entirely  without  rule  and  law  of  some  kind.  The  whole 
country  being  divided  into  a  number  of  independent  states,  the 
government  is  almost  invariably  of  the  most  despotic  character. 
The  will  of  the  King-  or  Chief  is  the  law  of  the  tribe  ;  and  woe 
to  those  who  dare  to  thwart  or  oppose  his  sable  Majesty. 
But,  notwithstanding  the  absolute  despotism  which  universally 
prevails,  there  are  forms  of  law  which  are  sometimes  resorted  to. 
Not  only  has  each  tribe  its  Chief,  but  each  town  has  its  Head- 
man or  Alcaide,  who  is  empowered  to  hear  and  settle  cases  of 
minor  consequence.  Each  town  has  also  its  hentang\  or  "  talking- 
place."  This  is  a  platform  of  wattled  bamboo-cane,  raised 
about  two  feet  high  from  the  ground,  and  is  generally  erected 
under  the  shade  of  an  umbrageous  tree  called  "  the  palaver  tree." 
Here  the  men  of  the  town  meet  together  and  lounge,  especially 


CHAP.    II. — THE    NATIVE    POPULATION.  35 

in  the  eveninoj,  to  talk  over  tlie  news  of  the  day.  Here,  also, 
the  people  assemble  when  cases  of  dispute  or  disagreement 
have  to  be  settled.  This  is  the  place  of  judgment,  and  answers 
the  purpose  of  the  court-house,  or  "  gate  of  the  city,"  of 
eastern  countries,  as  it  existed  in  ancient  times.  The  Chief,  or 
Alcaide,  having  taken  his  seat,  attended  by  his  councillors,  the 
case  is  stated  in  all  its  particulars,  witnesses  are  cited,  and  evi- 
dence is  taken  in  due  form.  Then  the  pleadings  commence  ;  when 
displays  of  native  oratory  are  sometimes  made,  which  one  would 
hardly  expect  among  such  a  people,  practised  hands  being 
employed  on  each  side  to  conduct  the  proceedings.  When  all 
has  been  said  that  can  be  said  upon  the  subject,  the  Chief  or 
Alcaide  presiding  gives  his  dictum,  and  states  in  a  few  words 
what  is  to  be  done.  If  the  case  at  all  affects  the  interests  of 
the  Chief,  it  may  be  foreseen  how  it  will  terminate  ;  or  he  may 
prevent  its  coming  to  trial  in  any  form  ;  for,  with  a  word  of  his 
mouth,  or  a  nod  of  his  head,  he  can  inflict  the  severest  punish- 
ment upon  those  who  have  incurred  his  displeasure,  even  to 
the  taking  away  life  itself.  Indeed,  human  life  is  very  lightly 
esteemed  by  these  barbarians.  "  If  a  black  man  had  brought 
me  this  message,"  said  the  King  of  Ashanti  in  a  rage  to  the 
British  Ambassadors,  "  I  would  have  had  his  head  cut  off  before 
me."  The  people  are  taught  to  regard  the  King  with  pro- 
found and  superstitious  veneration  ;  and  not  only  the  common 
people,  but  even  the  Chiefs  and  Caboceers  prostrate  themselves 
in  the  most  abject  manner  before  his  Majesty;  and,  when  per- 
mitted to  do  so,  actually  crawl  into  his  presence  upon  their 
hands  and  feet,  throwing  handfuls  of  dust  upon  their  heads. 
The  people  often  show  a  spirit  of  devotion  truly  Spartan,  and 
worthy  of  a  better  cause,  even  to  the  sacrifice  of  life  itself. 
"  My  head  belongs  to  the  King,  and  not  to  myself,"  said  one 
of  the  Daboman  warriors  to  Mr.  Norris :  "if  he  please  to  send 
for  it,  I  am  ready  to  resign  it ;  or  if  it  be  shot  through  in 
battle,  I  am  satisfied,  since  it  is  in  his  service." 

Although  we  have  adverted  to  courts  of  law  and  judicial 
process,  as  practised  in  some  parts  of  Western  Africa,  it  must 
not  be  supposed  that  there  exists  anything  of  this  kind 
analogous  to   what    we   have  in  England  and  other  civilized 

D  2 


36  PAllT    I. — TVESTERN    AFRICA. 

countries.  It  is  but  very  occasionally  that  we  meet  with 
anything  like  rational  investigation  for  the  discovery  of  guilt, 
with  a  view  to  meet  the  claims  of  justice.  E-ecourse  is  more 
frequently  had  to  witchcraft,  and  to  various  superstitious  rites 
and  ceremonies,  when  parties  are  suspected  of  crimes.  The 
sickness  of  a  Chief  often  causes  the  death  of  many  persons. 
It  is  ascribed  to  magic,  and  a  professed  sorcerer  is  summoned 
to  find  out  the  culprit.  This  he  does  by  inspecting  the  inside 
of  a  mystic  fowl,  which  has  been  killed  and  split  into  two  parts. 
Blackness  or  blemish  about  the  wing  is  supposed  to  denote 
treachery  in  children  or  kinsmen  ;  in  the  backbone  it  convicts 
mother  and  grandmother ;  in  the  tail  it  accuses  the  wives,  and 
in  the  thiglis  the  concubines  :  in  the  shanks  or  feet  it  condemns 
the  common  slaves.  When  a  class  has  thus  been  fixed  upon  as 
criminals,  its  members  are  collected  by  the  sorcerer  or  witch- 
doctor, who,  after  various  incantations,  throws  up  a  living  fowl, 
drugged  for  the  occasion,  and  singles  out  as  the  culprit  the 
person  on  whom  it  alights.  Confession  of  guilt  is  extorted  by 
torture,  and  instant  death  is  the  punishment.  Men  are  speared, 
clubbed,  beheaded,  or  have  their  heads  crushed;  and  w^omen 
are  generally  impaled.  If  the  Chief  be  long  in  recovering  or 
in  dying,  many  victims  are  thus  sacrificed,  as  the  "  custom  "  is 
continued  till  the  crisis  arrives.  Persons  suspected  of  adultery 
are  required  to  drink  poison  water,  or  to  walk  with  bare  feet 
over  plates  of  red-hot  iron  ;  either  of  which,  it  is  alleged,  will 
prove  harmless  to  the  innocent,  whilst,  if  guilty,  the  parties 
will  be  deservedly  punished.  Minor  crimes,  as  petty  thefts  and 
other  misdemeanours,  are  generally  punished  by  heavy  fines 
imposed  on  persons  possessing  property,  or  the  loss  of  personal 
liberty, "if  the  culprit  happens  to  be  poor.  To  drag  a  poor 
fellow  creature  into  perpttual  slavery,  is  the  most  common  mode 
of  demanding  atoucijieut  for  transgression  in  Western  Africa, 
as  it  atfords  the  most  certain  mode  of  replenishing  the  coffers 
of  the  despot. 

On  some  occasions,  however,  the  people  are  allowed  to  take 
the  law  into  their  own  hands.  This  is  particularly  the  case 
with  regard  to  an  institution  which  we  found  in  existence  in 
the  native  towns  on  the   banks  of  the   Gambia ;    and    which 


CHAP.    II. — THE    NATIVE    POPULATION.  37 

appears  to   be  known  on  various  parts  of  tlie  coast.      It  is 

terjned  jMimibo   Jumbo,  and   is   called  into  operation  for  the 

purpose  of  curinf^  domestic  squabbles,  and  punishing-  rebellious 

wives.     The  Negroes  who  are  in  circumstances  to  do  so,  being 

in  the  habit  of  multiplying  their  consorts,  are  not  unacquainted 

with  "family  jars;"  but  when  a  serious  breach  of  the  peace 

has  taken  place,  and  the  master  of  the  house  has  failed  to  put 

matters    right     by     friendly     remonstrance,    Mumbo    Jumbo 

interposes  his  authority.     This  is  a  person  unknown,  with  a 

mask  on  liis  face,  a  stall"  in  his  hand,  and  robed  in  a  singular 

dress,  made  of  the  bark  of  a  tree.     When  he  is  seen  entering 

the  village  in  the  dusk  of  the  evening,  and   approaching  the 

hentang,    where    the    people    are    assembling   for    their   usual 

amusement,  great  is  the  curiosity  which  is  excited   as  to  the 

])artie3   who  may  have  occasioned  the  visit  of  the  mysterious 

personage.     There  are  many  palpitations  and  heart-searchings 

among  the  ladies,  whose  consciences  tell  them  that  they  have 

not  been  remarkably  loving,  mild,  or  pacilic,  in  their  respective 

families.      At     length    Mumbo    Jumbo;    with    unerring   aim, 

seizes  upon   the    unfortunate    vixen    to    be  punished   for  her 

misconduct.      He   strips  her  nak^d,  ties   her  to  a  post,   and 

severely   beats  her  with  his  rod,  till  she  cries   for  mercy,  and 

promises  not   to  olfend   again  ;  whilst  the   bystanders  of  both 

sexes  look  on  with  derisive  bursts  of  laughter,  and  shouts  of 

savage  joy,  forgetting  that  their  turn  to  be  punished  may  soon 

come.     This    Mumbo    Jumbo    may    be    the   husband    of   the 

lady  thus  chastised,  or  he  may   be  his  friend,  whose  services 

have   been  engaged   for  the  occasion.      Having   executed    his 

office  in  perfect  disguise,  he  retires,  in  the  darkness  of  the  night, 

takes  off  his  dress,  and  hangs  it  up  in  a  tree  near  the  village, 

where  it  remains  suspended,  in  terrorem,  as  a  standing  warning 

to  unruly  wives.     Some  of  the  African  ladies  think  there  ought 

to  be  instituted  a    Mumbo  Jumbo  for  naughty  husbands    as 

well  as  for  disobedient  wives  1 

The  sacred  ordinance  of  marriage,  as  instituted  by  the 
Almighty,  and  as  acknowledged  in  civilized  and  Christian 
countries,  is  unknown  among  the  barbarous  tribes  of  Western 
Africa.     Both  Mohammedans  and  Pagans,  so  far  as  we  have 


38  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

observed,  are  remarkably  licentious  in  their  conduct  ;  and 
indulge  their  sensual  passions  without  restraint.  When  a 
younj?  man  desires  to  take  to  himself  a  wife,  the  first  question 
that  occurs  to  him  is,—  Has  he  the  means  of  paying  the  price  that 
the  parents  of  the  damsel  on  whom  he  has  fixed  his  eye  will 
expect  or  demand  for  their  daughter?  This  having  been 
settled,  and  a  present  of  the  mystic  kola  nuts  presented,  a 
bargain  is  made  with  the  old  people,  irrespective  of  the  views 
and  feelings  of  the  young  lady  on  the  subject ;  the  day  of  the 
wedding  is  fixed,  friends  are  invited,  and  a  feast  is  prepared. 
When  the  auspicious  day  arrives,  and  the  wedding  guests 
are  assembled,  about  sunset  the  bride  is  introduced,  dressed 
in  a  white  robe ;  and,  having  taken  her  seat  in  the  centre  of 
the  hut,  a  number  of  old  matrons  surround  her,  and  give  her 
earnest  and  serious  lectures  as  to  her  future  behaviour  as  a 
wife.  In  the  mean  time  a  number  of  young  girls  enter  the  hut 
singing  and  dancing ;  and  finally  conduct  the  timid  bride  to 
the  hut  appointed  for  her  future  residence ;  and  the  night  is 
spent  by  the  assembly  in  feasting,  drinking,  drumming,  and 
dancing,  without  any  legal  or  religious  ceremony  whatever. 

Polygamy  is  allowed  both  by  Mohammedans  and  Pagans,  and 
is  generally  practised  by  all  the  native  tribes  with  which  we  are 
acquainted.  The  Koran  does  indeed  impose  some  limitation 
to  the  number  of  a  man's  wdves,  and  requires  that  they  shall 
not  exceed  four.  But  in  many  professedly  Mohammedan  countries 
the  principles  of  the  false  prophet  have  such  a  slender  hold 
on  the  masses  of  the  people,  that  this  rule  is  totally  disregarded  ; 
whilst  among  the  Pagan  tribes  no  restraint  whatever  is  recog- 
nised, the  only  limit  to  the  number  of  a  man's  wives  being  his 
means  to  purchase  them.  We  have  met  with  instances  in 
which  native  Africans  have  had  ten,  twenty,  or  thirty  wives, 
whilst  Kings,  Chiefs,  and  Caboceers  are  known  to  niimber  them 
by  hundreds  and  thousands.  It  is  said  that  the  King  of 
Ashanti  rejoices  in  the  mystic  number  of  three  thousand  three 
hundred  and  thirty-three  wives  1 

In  the  present  barbarous  state  of  African  society,  it  is  unne- 
cessary for  the  husband  to  calculate  the  means  of  supporting 
his  wife  or  wives  ;  for,  when  once  procured,  they  are  the  prin- 


CHAP.    II. — THE    NATIVE    POPULATION.  39 

cipal  means  of  supporting  hiin  and  his  children.  It  is  the 
wives  who  cultivate  the  ground,  and  do  all  the  heavy  work  and 
drudgery  about  the  place,  in  common  with  the  domestic  slaves ; 
whilst  their  lazy  lords  are  lounging  at  home  in  their  huts  or  at 
the  bentang.  The  result  of  this  fearful  system  may  be  readily 
imagined.  According  to  Major  Gray,  "  polygamy  is  the  fruit- 
ful source  of  jealousy  and  distrust ;  it  contracts  the  parental 
and  filial  affections ;  it  weakens  and  disjoints  the  ties  of 
kindred,  and  totally  unhinges  the  frame  of  society.  The  father 
has  many  wives ;  the  wives  have  many  children ;  favouritism, 
in  its  most  odious  forms,  sets  in  ;  jealousy  is  soon  aroused,  and 
revenge  uusheaths  the  sword  which  deals  forth  destruction." 

The  houses  or  huts  of  the  natives  are  generally  of  a  rude  and 
simple  character.  Where  the  bamboo  flourishes,  as  on  the 
banks  of  the  Gambia,  they  are  made  of  neat  cane  wattled  work, 
as  are  also  the  fences  which  enclose  the  yard  or  compound  of 
each  fcimily.  In  other  places  they  are  built  of  mud,  which 
rapidly  dries  in  the  sun  ;  and  when  due  care  is  taken  in  the 
construction,  a  substantial  dwelling  may  be  erected  in  this  way. 
In  some  places  the  clay  or  mud  is  mixed  with  grass,  and  forms 
a  strong  compact  vvdU  called  "  swish."  The  usual  form  of  the 
African  huts  is  circular  or  beehive-shaped  ;  and  being  thatched 
with  long  grass,  they  appear  at  a  distance  like  so  many  hay- 
ricks in  a  farmyard.  It  is  not  unusual,  however,  to  find  in 
some  towns,  as  in  Abomi  and  Kumasi,  the  dwellings  of  the 
more  opulent  natives  built  of  a  square  shape;  and,  whether 
constructed  of  mud  or  wood-work,  they  are.  in  these  cases, 
substantially  built,  and  formed  with  neat  verandahs  or  open 
sitting-rooms  in  front ;  the  whole  being  finished  with  elaborate 
carved  work.  The  place  for  cooking  is  invariably  apart  from 
the  main  dwelling,  as  are  also  the  apartments  of  the  wives  ; 
hence,  when  a  man  has  a  large  family,  his  domestic  establish- 
ment presents  the  appearance  of  a  small  village  within  an 
enclosure.  The  domestic  wants  of  the  Negroes,  in  a  climate 
which  admits  of  their  spending  most  of  their  time  out  of  doors, 
are  {e,\w  and  simple :  consequently,  we  find  their  huts  not 
encumbered  with  much  furniture.  On  entering  the  rude  dwell- 
ing  of   the   African,    you    may    observe   on   one    side    of  the 


40  PART  I. WESTERN  AFRICA. 

principal  apartment  a  narrow  platform  of  wattled  cane-work, 
covered  v.ith  mats,  and  raised  about  half  a  yard  from  the 
ground.  This  is  the  sleeping-place,  and  answers  the  purpose  of 
a  bedstead.  One  or  two  iron  or  earthenware  pots,  in  which 
they  cook  their  food,  a  few  wooden  bowls  and  calabashes,  in 
which  it  is  served  up,  and  a  wooden  raorlar  and  ])estle,  with 
which  they  pound  the  corn  in  making  cus-cus,  with  a  lamp,  and 
sometimes  a  copper  kettle,  complete  the  list  of  household 
utensils  required  by  this  simple  people. 

Having  adverted  to  the  domestic  arrangements  of  the  Negro 
race,  this  may  be  the  proper  place  to  make  a  few  remarks  on 
their  mode  of  living.  In  every  part  of  Western  Africa  with 
which  we  are  acquainted,  the  natives  are  in  tlie  habit  of  taking 
only  two  meals  a  day,  the  one  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  the  other  about  six  o'clock  in  the  evening.  These 
generally  consist,  with  but  little  variation,  of  manioc,  yams,  sweet 
potatoes,  and  other  roots,  pounded  corn,  called  cus-cus,  and 
boiled  rice,  served  up  with  milk,  or  with  soup,  together  with 
fish,  flesh,  or  fowl,  according  to  their  means,  taste,  or  f;incy. 
The  whole  mess,  when  cooked,  is  poured  into  a  large  calabash 
or  wooden  bowl,  which  is  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  hut, 
around  which  the  whole  family  assembles  to  eat :  first  the  lords, 
and  then  the  ladies  and  the  children  ;  for  an  African  never  eats 
with  his  wives  or  little  ones.  It  is  a  novel  sight  to  a 
European,  this  domestic  meal  of  the  Negro  at  his  own  liome, 
especially  when  the  family  is  large,  as  they  make  use  of  their 
hands  only,  whether  the  contents  of  the  wooden  bowl  be  solid 
or  liquid  ;  knives,  forks,  and  spoons  being  out  of  question. 
We  have  sometimes  been  rather  perplexed,  w-hen  travelling  far 
from  the  abodes  of  civilization,  to  conform  to  this  primitive 
mode  of  satisfying  the  cravings  of  nature.  It  is  a  remarkable 
circumstance  that  we  never  saw  bread  of  any  kind  made  or  used 
in  the  interior  of  Western  Africa. 

In  personal  appearance  the  natives  are  generally  far  superior 
to  what  many  would  suppose.  In  some  of  ttie  tribes,  we  have 
found  the  men  tall  and  athletic,  and  the  women  well  formed 
and  good-looking;  and  whether  of  jet  black  or  bronze  com- 
plexion,  then*  skins  are   smooth  and  shining,  being  frequently 


Cn\P.    II. — THE    KATIVE    POPULATION.  41 

anointed  with  palm  oil.  The  dress  of  those  who  do  dress  is 
very  simple,  and  differs  little  throiig-hout  the  country  ;  fashions 
ai^d  modes,  as  ])ractised  by  civilized  nations,  being  entirely 
unknown.  The  most  common  garb  consists  of  two  oblong 
cloths  of  native  manufacture,  called  "pangs,"  one  of  which  is 
thrown  round  the  lower,  and  the  other  over  the  upper,  part  of 
the  person.  The  men,  however,  sometimes  wear  wide  panta- 
loons, and  a  loose  robe  reaching  down  to  the  feet,  over .  their 
under  garments,  and  a  turban  or  cotton  cap  on  the  head. 
Ladies  of  rank,  when  in  full  dress,  appear  with  splendid  head- 
dresses, of  a  conical  form,  resembling  the  shape  of  a  sugar  loaf; 
and  are  frequently  laden  with  ornaments  of  gold  and  silver  in 
the  form  of  massive  ear-rings,  bracelets,  manilias,  or  heavy 
metallic  rings  round  the  wrists  and  ancles,  with  a  profusion  of 
beads  of  various  kinds  and  colours.  Their  favourite  domestic 
slaves,  however  scanty  their  clothing,  are  also  frequently 
adorned  with  ornaments  of  gold,  the  whole  of  which,  as  well  as 
the  wearers,  belong  to  their  owners.  All  classes,  except  slaves, 
wear  sandals  of  stained  leather,  beautifully  ornamented,  instead 
of  shoes.  But,  although  we  have  thus  described  the  usual 
dress  of  those  who  do  dress,  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that 
children  of  both  sexes  may  be  everywhere  seen  running  about 
entirely  destitute  of  clothing ;  and  that  adults,  free  persons  as 
well  as  slaves,  wear  next  to  nothing  when  pursuing  their  daily 
avocations  There  has  been  an  improvement  in  this  respect  of 
late  years,  both  in  the  European  settlements  and  on  the  Mission 
stations.  The  native  females  at  the  Gambia  were  highly 
amused  wiien  they  first  saw  the  Missionary's  wife  cutting  out 
dresses,  and  instructing  the  Negro  girls  how  to  make  garments. 
They  laughed  heartily  ;  declaring  English  ladies  to  be  the  most 
foolish  people  in  the  world  for  "  cutting  the  cloth  into  little 
pieces,  and  then  taking  the  trouble  to  sew  them  together 
again  ! " 

The  people  of  Africa  have  everywhere  a  strong  passion  for 
trade  and  commerce  ;  and  a  person  has  no  sooner  the  means  at 
his  command,  than  he  engages  in  some  kind  of  traffic  with 
characteristic  earnestness,  according  to  his  opportunity.  This 
propensity  is  manifested  by  all  classes,  from  the  King  to  the 


42  PAKT    I. — WESTERN    AFHICA. 

meanest  slave ;  and  fairs  and  markets  have  been  established  in 
various  parts  of  the  country,  where  thousands  of  people  attend 
to  interchange  property,  their  trade  beinoj  invariably  conducted 
on  the  principle  of  barter.  Money  coin  is  unknown  among  the 
natives  of  the  interior.  That  which  approaches  nearest  to  it, 
as  a  circulating  medium,  is  cowrie  shells.  These  are  strung 
together  in  hundreds  in  some  districts,  and  then  they  are  easily 
counted ;  but  in  other  places  they  are  put  up  in  bags  contain- 
ing 20,000  each,  which  have  all  to  be  reckoned  off  separately, 
wdiich  is  a  very  tedious  process.  Some  idea  of  the  cumbrous 
and  inconvenient  character  of  this  kind  of  currency  may  be 
formed,  when  it  is  stated  that  so  small  is  the  nominal  value  of 
the  cowrie  that  50  of  them  go  to  a  penny,  and  12,000  to  a 
pound  sterling.  As  100,000  are  reckoned  a  load  for  a  camel, 
twelve  camels  would  be  required  to  carry  £100  in  cowries; 
whilst  £2,  in  this  cumbrous  African  currency,  form  an  ample 
burden  for  a  man  to  carry  on  his  head.  Although  cowries  are 
the  most  common  kind  of  currency  in  Western  Africa,  and  will 
generally  serve  the  purpose  of  the  traveller,  when  he  can 
procure  them,  this  is  not  always  the  case.  In  some  districts 
bars  of  iron,  bundles  of  native  cloth,  or  shirts,  are  recognised  as 
the  smaller  currency,  ai;d  slaves  or  gold  as  the  larger;  and 
without  these  articles  nothing  that  is  required  can  be  procured. 
Rude  and  barbarous  as  the  native  Africans  are  in  many 
respects,  they  have  made  a  degree  of  progress  in  some  branches 
of  manufacture  which  is  quite  surprising,  considering  their 
slender  resources.  In  almost  every  part  of  the  country,  the 
people  are  in  the  habit  of  weaving  a  coarse  but  strong  cotton 
cloth.  It  is  made  in  very  narrow  webs  of  about  six  or  eight 
inches  wide,  which  are  sewed  together,  so  as  to  form  the  oblong 
garments  called  "  pangs,"  already  mentioned.  The  cotton  used  in 
this  fabrication  is  grown  on  the  spot,  and  is  spun  into  threads  for 
warp  and  wett  with  the  fingers,  without  any  machinery;  whilst 
the  loom  for  weaving  is  of  a  rude  and  simple  construction. 
The  art  of  dyeing  is  also  generally  known.  Difierent  colours 
are  used  to  ornament  their  garments;  but  the  most  common  is  a 
permanent  blue  obtained  from  indigo,  which  is  an  indigenous 
plant  on  the  banks  of  the  Gambia,  and  in  other  places.     In 


CHAP.    II. — THE    NATIVE    POPULATION.  43 

earthenware,  they  maimfacture  coarse  dishes,  pots,  and  jars  ; 
some  of  which  are  ornamented  with  various  devices,  as  are  also 
the  cahibaslies  which  they  prepare  and  use  lor  various  domestic 
purposes.  Mats  used  for  sitting  and  sleeping  on  are  also 
staple  articles  of  manufacture  in  many  parts  of  Western 
Africa  ;  whilst  the  art  of  tanning  and  working  in  leatlier  is  gene- 
rally practised  :  some  of  the  articles  thus  made,  as  sandals, 
greegrees,  pouches,  &c.,  are  sometimes  beautifully  ornamented. 
But  the  best  specimens  of  native  art  which  we  have  seen,  are  those 
which  exist  in  different  kinds  of  metal.  Iron,  copper,  and  gold 
are  found  in  various  parts  of  the  country.  These  the  natives 
smelt,  and  work  up  into  a  variety  of  articles  with  wonderful 
ingenuity,  with  tools  of  the  rudest  description.  The  gold 
rings,  chains,  and  bracelets,  which  we  have  seen  manufactured, 
in  Western  Africa,  might,  in  some  instances,  have  been  taken 
for  the  work  of  English  goldsmiths,  so  delicate  were  both  the 
designs  and  the  workmanship. 

We  would  now  call  the  attention  of  the  reader  to  the  moral 
and  religious  condition  of  the  numerous  tribes  inhabiting 
Western  Africa.  And  here  a  dark  and  gloomy  picture  presents 
itself  to  our  view ;  for  what  can  we  expect  in  a  land  where  the 
Christian's  Bible,  and  Sabbath,  and  Saviour,  are  unknown? 
Truly  "  darkness  covers  the  earth,  and  gross  darkness  the 
minds  of  the  people." 

The  entire  population  of  Western  Africa  was  no  doubt  pagan 
at  no  very  remote  period  ;  but  in  modern  times  the  religion  of 
the  false  prophet  has  extensively  prevailed,  having  been  zealously 
propagated  with  fire  and  sword  by  the  northern  tribes  of  Arab 
descent.  But  there  is  not  so  much  difference  between  the 
Mohammedanism  and  the  Paganism  of  the  Negroes  as  many  sup- 
pose. The  distinction  is  rather  nominal  than  real,  so  far  as  the 
moral  conduct  of  the  people  is  concerned.  All  profess  to  believe 
in  the  existence  of  God,  if  a  very  confused  notion  of  a  higher 
power  may  be  so  designated ;  but  all  are  entirely  ignorant  of 
the  character  of  the  Divine  Being,  and  exceedingly  superstitious. 
This  is  evident  from  the  earnestness  with  which  they  resort  to 
their  greegrees  and  fetish,  in  times  of  difficulty  and  danger,  and 
the  confidence  which  they  place  in  their  ability  to  procure  for 


44  PAUT    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

them  every  j^ood  which  they  require,  and  to  defend  them  against 
every  kind  of  evil.  The  followers  of  the  false  prophet  are  gene- 
rally fatalists. 

Greegree,  or  sapJiie,  is  the  name  given  by  Mohammedans  to  the 
charms  or  amulets  which  they  wear  upon  their  persons,  and  sus- 
pend in  their  dwellings.  They  generally  consist  of  a  few  sen- 
tences in  Arabic,  extracted  from  the  Koran,  written  on  slips  of 
paper  by  the  Priest,  or  Maraboo,  who  carries  on  a  profitable 
trade  in  this  branch  of  his  profession  ;  a  high  price  being  fre- 
quently paid  for  one  of  them.  When  they  are  to  be  worn  on 
the  person  as  ornaments,  these  scraps  of  writing  are  enclosed  in 
small  pieces  of  red  cloth,  or  leather,  neatly  stitched  up,  and 
stained  in  various  colours,  with  thongs  attached,  with  which  to 
suspend  them  from  the  neck,  or  bind  them  to  the  arms.  One 
of  these  greegrees  will  be  worn  to  preserve  the  person  from 
being  pierced  with  a  spear  or  musket-ball  in  battle  ;  another,  to 
prevent  drowning,  by  the  upsetting  of  the  canoe;  whilst  a  third 
\vill  be  suspended  open,  as  an  inscription,  in  the  hut  or  store,  to 
secure  prosperity  in  trade,  &c.  So  numerous  are  the  purposes 
for  which  these  foolish  charms  are  used,  that  we  have  frequently 
seen  the  superstitious  natives  almost  covered  with  them  from 
head  to  foot ;  and  we  have  witnessed  some  affecting  instances 
of  the  implicit  confidence  which  is  placed  in  them  on  occasions 
of  emergency.  To  show  that  the  Mohammedan  Negroes  are  not 
very  particular  as  to  the  construction  of  their  amulets,  and  to  prove 
the  superstitious  regard  which  they  pay  to  any  thing  belonging  to 
white  men,  it  may  be  stated  that,  on  one  occasion,  on  a  greegree 
being  cut  open,  it  was  found  to  contain  nothing  more  than  a 
square  of  white  man's  soap,  with  the  mark,  clear  and  legible, 
*'  Genuine  Brown  Windsor  !  " 

The  little  incident  just  mentioned  may  serve  to  show  the 
intimate  relationship  which  exists  between  the  greegree  and  the 
fetish,  in  the  confused  and  ignorant  mind  of  the  degraded 
Negro.  Whilst  the  greegree  of  the  Mohammedan  consists  of  a 
written  charm,  as  already  stated,  the  fetish  of  the  Pagan  is  made 
of  almost  any  thing  consecrated  by  the  Priest  for  the  purpose  ; 
the  stranger  the  matter  employed,  the  greater  confidence  appears 
to  be  placed  in  it.     The  most  common  articles  used  in  the  con- 


CHAP.    II. — THE    NATIVE    POPULATION.  45 

struction  of  fetishes,  to  be  worn  on  the  person,  or  liung  np  in 
the  house,  are  the  heads,  claws,  and  bones  of  various  kinds  of 
birds,  animals,  or  serpents.  These  are  enclosed  in  the  horns  of 
sheep,  deer,  or  other  animals,  or  encased  in  cloth  or  leather, 
and  suspended  by  thongs,  like  tlie  Mussulman's  greegree.  We 
have  known  instances  in  which  the  Negroes  have  obtained  a 
kck  of  a  white  man's  hair,  or  the  parings  of  his  finger-nails,  for 
the  purpose  of  fetish,  having  a  high  opinion  of  their  power  to 
preserve  them  from  evil. 

In  addition  to  the  superstitious  confidence  which  the  degraded 
African  exercises  in  these  foolish  things,  he  is  in  tiie  habit  of 
noting  luckv  and  unlucky  days,  and  of  performing  numerous 
silly  rites  and  ceremonies,  on  going  to  war,  or  on  commencing  a 
journey,  which  partake  of  the  nature  of  witchcraft.  When 
questioned  on  the  subject,  we  have  never  known  them  give  any 
reason  for  their  strange  conduct,  beyond  that  which  they  have 
always  at  hand,  and  which  they  make  use  of  on  almost  every 
occasion ;  namely,  they  do  so  "  because  their  forefathers  did  so, 
and  they  are  quite  satisfied  to  tread  in  the  steps  of  their  forefathers." 

Some  of  the  superstitious  rites  and  ceremonies  of  the  Negro 
race  partake  more  of  the  nature  of  open  idolatry,  than  any  of 
those  which  have  yet  been  mentioned.  For  instance,  they  pay 
homage  to  certain  lakes,  rivers,  and  mountains,  which  they 
regard  as  sacred,  believing  them  to  be  the  abode  of  their  gods. 
They  also  adore  various  animals  and  reptiles,  which  they  con- 
sider 10  be  inspired  by  spiritual  beinss.  At  Dix  Cove  a  large 
crocodile  constantly  receives  Divine  honours.  It  is  kept  in  a 
large  pond,  near  the  fort ;  and  any  person  going  on  shore  at 
that  place  may  have  a  sight  of  it,  at  the  expense  of  a  white  fowl 
and  a  bottle  of  rum.  The  fetish-man  takes  the  fowl  and  the 
spirits,  and,  proceeding  to  the  pond,  makes  a  peculiar  whistling 
noise  with  his  mouth ;  on  which  the  crocodile  comes  forth  and 
receives  the  fowl  as  his  share  of  the  present,  whilst  the  priest 
appropriates  the  liquor  to  himsdf.  Some  years  ago,  Mr.  Hutch- 
inson and  Captain  Leavens  were  exposed  to  considerable  risk, 
on  paying  a  visit  to  this  place  ;  for,  the  fowl  having  escaped 
from  the  fetish-man  into  the  bush,  the  crocodile  made  towards 
them,  and  pressed  them  so  closely  that,  had  not  a  dog  crossed 


46  PART    I. — WESTEEN    AFRICA. 

their  path,  of  which  the  animal  made  his  repast,  one  of  them 
would  most  probably  have  fallen  a  victim  to  his  rapacity. 

But  not  only  does  creation,  animate  and  inanimate,  furnish 
objects  of  adoration  to  this  deluded  people  ;  they  have  also 
recourse  to  artificial  devices,  in  the  form  of  rudely  carved  images, 
clumps  of  stones,  bundles  of  sticks,  and  other  thino;s  equally 
absurd.  In  many  places  the  people  avowedly  worship  the 
devil  himself,  declarinp^  that  nothinp^  can  harm  them  but  Satan, 
and  that  if  they  cultivate  friendship  with  him  all  will  be  well. 

In  common  with  many  other  heathen  nations,  the  Africans 
offer  sacrifices  to  their  deities.  Fowls,  oxen,  sheep,  goats,  and 
dogs,  are  slain  for  this  purpose ;  as  the  deluded  natives  are 
strongly  impressed  with  the  idea  that  their  gods  delight  in 
blood.  But  the  most  awful  circumstance  which  has  come  under 
our  notice,  in  connexion  with  African  superstitions,  is  that  of 
the  offering  human  sacrifices ;  which  prevails  to  an  alarming 
extent,  especially  in  the  kingdoms  of  Ashanti  and  Dahonii.  If 
a  King  or  a  nobleman  wishes  to  convey  a  message  to  a  departed 
friend  in  the  world  of  spirits,  he  whispers  the  message  in  the 
ears  of  a  slave,  and  immediately  has  his  head  struck  off.  And 
at  the  death  of  persons  of  distinction  hundreds  and  thousands 
of  hapless  human  beings  are  cruelly  slaughtered,  that  their  spirits 
may,  in  the  unseen  world,  attend  upon  that  of  the  distinguished 
person  deceased,  in  honour  of  whom  they  are  slain.  On  the 
death  of  the  King  of  Dahomi,  a  few  years  ago,  two  hundred  and 
eighty  of  his  wives  fell  victims  to  the  sanguinary  superstitions 
of  the  country  ;  and  still  larger  numbers  have  fallen  in  Ashanti 
on  similar  occasions. 

This  dark  account  of  the  African  cruelties  and  superstitions 
may  be  appropriately  closed  by  a  brief  extract  from  the  most 
recent  missionary  communications  which  have  reached  this 
country.  The  Kev.  A.  Bushnell  says :  "  After  visiting  the 
principal  Chiefs,  I  w^ent  to  see  several  of  their  jiiju,  or  '  devil- 
houses.'  The  principal  one  is  a  rude,  thatch-roofed  edifice; 
upon  entering  the  door  of  which,  I  saw^  grinning  at  me  four  or 
five  hundred  human  skulls,  with  which  the  pillars  and  walls  were 
lined  ;  and,  as  I  crossed  the  room,!  walked  upon  a  pavement  of 
Human  skulls.     The  sight  was  the  most  ghastly  and  horrid  I 


CHAP.    II. — THE    >'ATIVE    POPULATION.  47 

have  ever  seen.  As,  with  trepidation,  I  retreated  from  this 
habitation  of  devils,  my  attention  was  called  to  a  scaffold  eight 
or  ten  feet  hi^rh,  in  the  yard  near  the  door,  on  which  were  a 
large  quantity  of  human  bones,  some  of  which  seemed  fresh  and 
new.  Upon  inquiry,  I  learned  that  these  were  the  bones  of 
enemies  taken  or  killed  in  war,  or  for  witchcraft ;  and  some  of 
the  flesh  had  been  eaten,  and  the  blood  drunk,  in  horrid  fetish 
orgies.  To  this  temple  the  sick  are  brought  to  sleep,  and  to 
liave  incantations  performed  over  them.  From  this  charnel- 
house  I  went  to  call  upon  Juju  Jack,  '  the  arch-priest,'  or  '  chief 
devil-man.'  I  found  him  sitting  in  the  porch  of  his  dwelling, 
with  emblems  of  his  craft  on  either  side.  He  conducted  me 
through  a  room  in  which  were  skulls  and  fetishes,  and  through 
a  dark  passage,  into  a  back  apartment,  where  I  was  furnished 
with  a  chair,  and  offered  palm  wine.  He  is  a  fiendish- 
looking  elderly  man,  and  seems  capable  of  any  work  of  cruelty 
and  blood." 

From  the  statements  which  we  have  now  made  with  reference 
to  the  moral  degradation  in  which  the  Mohammedan  and  pagan 
tribes  of  Western  Africa  are  involved,  the  reader  is  no  doubt 
satisfied  that  a  country  where  such  scenes  are  witnessed  as  those 
which  we  have  described,  may  with  i)ropriety  be  called  a  "  land 
of  darkness."  But  we  have  still  a  darker  shade  to  give  to  the 
picture.  To  the  long  list  of  abominations  practised  by  the 
people,  as  wars,  slavery,  superstition,  idolatry,  human  sacrifices, 
and  devil-worship,  we  must  now  add  the  awful  crime  of  canni- 
balism. VYe  were  long  since  aware  that,  in  the  furious  and 
fiendish  triumphs  of  the  battle-field,  the  Ashanti  warriors  and 
other  native  soldiers  were  in  the  habit  of  drinking  the  blood 
and  eating  tlie  hearts  of  their  vanquished  enemies,  from  a  super- 
stitious notion  that  they  would,  by  doing  so,  imbibe  the  courage 
and  warlike  spirit  of  those  whom  they  had  slain  ;  but  we  were 
not,  till  recently,  prepared  to  admit  that,  in  any  part  of  the  vast 
continent,  Africans  could  be  found  who  would  deliberately  slay 
and  devour  each  other.  But  from  well-authenticated  accounts 
which  have  lately  come  to  hand,  it  appears  to  be  even  so. 

For  fearful  illustrations  of  African  cannibalism,  we  might 
refer  the  reader  to  the  Travels  of  Du  Chaillu,  and  other  pub- 


48  PAUT    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

lications ;  but  the  most  recent  iaformation  which  we  have 
received  on  the  subject,  is  tliat  brought  by  the  "  Armenian/' 
mail  steamer,  which  arrived  at  Liverpool  on  the  13tli  of  ]\Iarch, 
1S62.  Wlien  that  vessel  was  in  the  Bonny  River,  on  the  19th 
of  January,  a  report  was  circulated  that  a  cannibal  feast  was 
about  to  be  made  in  the  town  ;  but  no  one  gave  credit  to  the 
rumour.  A  party  went  on  shore,  however,  on  the  1st  of  Feb- 
ruary, and  were  horrified  to  see,  when  walking  through  the 
place,  no  less  than  five  human  heads,  arranged  in  the  most  sys- 
tematic order  on  the  grass,  with  a  fire  close  to,  and  a  large  pot 
ready  for  cooking.  At  another  spot  close  by,  lay  arms,  legs, 
&c.,  in  course  of  being  prepared  for  the  pot ;  while  an  old  black 
woman  was  engaged  in  slicing  up  a  human  liver  for  the  "  stew  !  " 
But  we  must  turn  away  from  the  sickening  sight,  confessing, 
with  feelings  of  shame  for  poor  degraded  human  nature,  that 
"  the  dark  places  of  the  earth  are  "  still "  full  of  the  habitations  of 
cruelty ;  "  and  with  an  earnest  prayer  that  the  light  of  the 
glorious  Gospel  of  Christ  may  soon  shine  on  every  portion  of 
that  benighted  country  I 


CHAPTER  III. 

AFRICAN  SLAVERY  AND  THE  SLAVE  TRADE. 

Prevalence  of  Slavery — Sources — \Var — Famine — Insolvency — Crime — ■ 
Uses — Condition — Slave  Trade — Discovery  of  America — Portuguese — 
Spaniards — Abolition  Labourers — Friends — \^  esley — Sharp — Clarksou 
— Wilberforce — British  Slave  Trade  abolished — Further  Efforts — 
British  Slavery  abolished — Slave  Trade  continued  by  others — Extent 
— Cruelty — Mortality — Little  Benonie. 

Tt  may  be  truly  said  of  Western  Africa,  that  it  is  a  land  of 
slaves  ;  and  no  one  acquainted  witli  the  state  of  society  in  that 
unhappy  country  will  for  a  moment  doubt  the  truth  of  this 
startling  declaration.  On  this  painful  subjf^ct  we  have  received 
our  ovni  impressions  from  personal  observations  on  the  spot ; 


CHAP.    III. — SLAVERY    AND    THE    SLAVE    TRADE.  49 

but  it  appears  desirable,  on  this  occasion,  to  advert  to  the 
testimony  of  others,  that  in  the  mouth  of  two  or  three  wit- 
nesses every  word  may  be  verified.  Every  traveller  who  has 
visited  the  coast,  or  passed  through  the  interior,  testifies  to  the 
general  prevalence  of  slavery.  When  he  appeared  before  the 
AVest  African  Committee  of  the  House  of  Commons,  Colonel 
Nicholls  said,  "  I  know  no  other  characters  in  Africa  than 
master  and  slave."  And  j\Ir.  M'Queen,  on  a  similar  occasion, 
said,  "  Slavery  and  the  slave  trade  form  the  general  law  of 
Africa.  These  two  evils  reign  acknowledged,  sanctioned,  known, 
recognised,  and  submitted  to,  by  her  population  of  every  rank 
and  degree,  throughout  all  her  extended  borders."  According 
to  the  computation  of  Park,  three-fourths  of  the  entire  popula- 
tion are  in  a  state  of  bondage.  In  his  first  journey  to  Kanu, 
Captain  Clapperton,  estimating  its  inhabitants  at  40,000, 
records  his  opinion  that  at  least  one-half  of  the  population  were 
slaves.  At  a  subsequent  visit  to  the  same  place,  however, 
he  ascertained  that  his  first  impression  had  been  too  favourable ; 
for  he  was  now  informed  that  there  were  no  fewer  than  thiity 
slaves  for  every  free  man.  The  same  traveller  incidentally 
mentions  a  village  in  the  neighbourhood  of  iSakatu,  where  only 
one  in  seventy  of  the  inhabitants  was  free.  As  illustrative  of 
the  number  of  slaves,  and  the  manner  in  which  they  were  some- 
times employed.  Major  Denham  states  that  tlie  Sultan  of  Bomu 
had,  at  one  time,  in  his  service  thirty  thousand  armed  slaves  as 
native  soldiers. 

The  testimonies  here  given  of  the  prevalence  of  slavery  in 
"Western  Africa  have  a  reference  chiefly,  if  not  exclusively,  to 
Mohammedan  states.  Now,  when  we  remember  the  fact  that, 
according  to  the  laws  of  the  Koran,  a  Moslem  may  enslave  a 
Kaffir  or  unbeliever,  but  cannot  hold  in  bondage  one  of  his  own 
faith,  we  are  led  to  infer  that  in  those  districts  which  are  purely 
Pagan,  slavery  is  still  more  predominant.  This  inference  is 
fully  borne  out  by  a  careful  examination  of  the  facts  of  the  case. 
According  to  Clapperton,  the  whole  population  of  Yariba  may 
be  considered  in  a  state  of  slavery,  either  to  the  King  or  his 
Caboceers.  And  it  is  said  that  in  Ashanti,  Fanti,  and  Dahomi, 
in  addition   to   th^   large    numbers    kept  in   bondage  by  the 

£ 


50  PART   I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

respective  Kings,  each  Caboceer  or  nobleman  possesses  thousands 
of  sLives,  whilst  the  inferior  Chiefs  and  Captains  own  a  propor- 
tionate number.  It  is  therefore  highly  probable  that  the  esti- 
mate of  Park  is  much  too  low,  if  applied  to  Western  Africa  as  a 
whole ;  and  that  there  are  considerably  more  than  three-fourths 
of  the  entire  population  in  a  state  of  bondage. 

Let  us  now^  glance  at  the  means  by  which  this  gigantic  evil 
is  sustained,  or  the  sources  from  which  the  slaves  are  supplied. 
As  slavery  is  everywhere  hereditary,  all  children  born  in  this 
state  are  doomed  to  a  life  of  perpetual  bondage.  But  there  are 
other  sources  from  which  the  supply  is  kept  up,  which  are 
deserving  of  notice.  The  principal  of  these  ars  w^ar,  famine, 
insolvency,  and  crime. 

When  the  nations  or  tribes  of  Western  Africa  go  to  war  with 
each  other,  even  on  political  grounds,  the  victors  invariably 
reduce  the  vanquished  to  a  state  of  slavery,  even  if  they  have 
been  free  before.  This  practice  has  prevailed  in  other  lands ; 
but  in  Africa  we  have  the  fearful  spectacle  exhibited  to  our  view 
of  wars  waged  for  the  avowed  purpose  of  supplying  the  demand 
for  slaves  created  by  a  foreign  slave  trade,  to  the  enormities  of 
which  we  shall  have  occasion  to  refer  hereafter. 

People  previously  in  a  state  of  freedom  are  sometim  -  reduced 
to  slavery  by  famine.  In  a  country  where  the  soil  is  remarkably 
fertile,  and  the  necessaries  of  life  are  produced  with  little  labour, 
it  may  appear  strange  to  some  that  famine  should  ever  be 
known.  It  must  be  remembered,  however,  that  the  seasons 
favourable  for  cultivation  are  sometimes  very  irregidar,  and  the 
people  are  proverbial  for  their  improvidence  and  recklessness  as 
to  the  future ;  consequently,  when  the  crop  has  failed,  the 
natives  are  reduced  to  great  straits,  and  are  induced  to  sell 
their  children  as  slaves  for  food  to  eat.  Park  gives  an  affecting 
instance  of  this  kind,  which  came  under  his  own  notice  after  he 
had  left  the  Gambia.  He  says,  "The  scarcity  of  provisions 
was  felt  at  this  time  most  severely  by  the  poor  people,  as  the 
following  circumstance  most  painfully  convinced  me.  Every 
evening  during  my  stay,  I  observed  five  or  six  women  come  to 
the  mansas  house,  and  receive  each  of  them  a  quantity  of  corn. 
As  I  knew   how  valuable  this  article  was  at  this  juncture,  I 


CHAP.    III. SLAVERY    AND    THE    SLAVE    TRADE.  51 

inquired  of  the  niansa  whether  he  maintained  these  poor  women 
from  pure  bounty,  or  expected  a  return  when  the  harvest  should 
be  gathered  in.  '  Observe  that  boy,'  said  he,  pointing-  to  a  fine 
child  about  five  years  of  age ;  '  his  mother  has  sold  him  to  me 
for  forty  days'  provision.  I  have  bought  another  boy  in  the 
sa-ne  manner.'  1  could  not  get  this  melancholy  subject  out  of  my 
mind ;  and  the  next  night,  when  the  women  returned  for  their 
allowance,  I  desired  the  boy  to  point  out  to  me  his  mother, 
which  he  did.  She  was  much  emaciated  ;  and  when  she  received 
her  corn,  she  came  and  talked  to  her  son  with  as  much  cheerful- 
ness as  though  he  had  been  still  under  her  care." 

Another  common  source  of  African  slavery  is  insolvency.  A 
Negro  trader  contracts  debts  on  account  of  some  mercantile 
speculation,  either  by  purchasing  from  his  neighbours 
such  articles  as  will  sell  to  advantage  in  a  distant  market, 
or  by  obtaining  goods  from  the  European  traders  on  the 
coast,  with  the  promise  of  making  payment  at  a  given  time. 
If  he  succeeds,  he  gains  a  large  profit  on  the  enterprise ; 
but  if  he  fails,  all  his  remaining  property,  and  his  person,  his 
fauiily,  and  services,  are  at  the  disposal  of  another;  for  in 
Western  Africa  not  only  the  effects  of  the  insolvent,  but  even 
the  insolvent  himself  and  his  children,  are  sold  to  satisfy  the 
demands  of  his  creditors.  There  is,  moreover,  a  modified  kind 
of  slavery  on  the  coast,  under  the  name  of  "  pawns,"  which, 
we  regret  to  say,  has  been  to  a  considerable  extent  sanctioned 
by  British  merchants.  This  subject  has  attracted  the  notice  of 
the  English  Government,  who  have  decided  that  the  system  is 
totally  at  variance  with  the  Acts  of  Parliament  abolishing 
slavery  and  the  slave  trade  throughout  the  British  dominions. 
To  show  the  real  identity  of  the  "  pawn  system  "  with  the  spirit 
of  slaveiy,  we  need  only  remark  that  in  the  investigations  which 
v.ere  made  on  the  subject,  one  witness  said,  "A  pawn  is  a  man 
who  runs  into  debt,  and  who,  in  order  to  discharge  the  debt, 
pawns  himself  until  he  redeems  himself."  Another  described 
pawns  as  persons  who  had  "sold  themselves  into  bondage,  from 
which  they  can  only  be  emancipated  by  pecuniary  payments  ; 
and  if  not  so  emancipated,  they  must  live  and  die  iii  servitude." 

E  2 


52  PART    I. WESTERN   AFRICA. 

This  witness  acknowledg-ed  that  he  had  "  known  both  slaves 
and  pawns  sold  at  public  auction." 

In  addition  to  the  means  already  mentioned,  people  in  Western 
Africa  are  liable  to  lose  their  freedom  by  the  commission  of 
crime.  Almost  every  kind  of  offence,  whether  theft,  witchcraft, 
adultery,  or  murder,  is  punished  by  the  sentence  of  perpetual 
bondage.  Sometimes,  however,  the  criminal  is  allowed  to 
redeem  himself  by  offering  to  the  King  or  the  offended  party,  or 
both,  a  certain  amount  of  property,  or  a  number  of  other  slaves. 

The  enormous  extent  to  which  man  holds  his  brother  man  in 
bondage,  regarding  him  as  hond  fide  property,  in  Africa,  will 
still  more  fully  appear,  if  we  consider  the  various  uses  to  which 
slaves  are  applied  in  Africa. 

Slaves  have,  in  many  parts  of  the  country,  become  the  prin- 
cipal articles  of  barter,  and  are  regarded  in  the  light  of  *'  current 
money  with  the  merchant."  Many  kinds  of  merchandise  can  be 
purchased  with  slaves,  and  with  nothing  else ;  other  articles  of 
produce,  as  an  equivalent,  being  positively  refused.  A  poor 
Negro,  who  had  passed  through  the  hands  of  several  masters  on 
his  way  to  the  coast,  related  in  all  simplicity  how  he  was  first 
sold  for  a  single  hoe,  then  for  some  salt,  and  then  again  for 
some  cloth,  when  he  finally  passed  into  the  hands  of  the 
European  merchant.  Major  Denham  states  that  the  Sultan  of 
Sakatu  received  tribute  from  his  dependent  states  chiefly  in 
slaves. 

When  the  country  remains  for  a  time  in  a  comparatively 
quiet  and  settled  state,  the  slaves  are  the  artisans  and  agricul- 
tural labourers  of  Western  Africa.  Hired  servants  and  persons 
voluntarily  working  in  any  department  for  pay  are  unknown  ; 
every  free  man  possessing  his  establishment  of  domestic  slaves. 
It  is  quite  common  to  hear  an  African  of  consequence  summing 
up  the  wealth  which  he  possesses,  as  consisting  in  "  gold,  slaves, 
herds,  and  horses."  Slaves  are  also  the  marriage  bonus  with 
which  he  purchases  each  additional  wife,  and  frequently  the 
only  inheritance  which  he  leaves  to  his  children. 

Such  are  some  of  the  uses  to  which  African  slavery  is  applied  by 
the  few  who  are  free  in  their  own  country,  as  domestic  property  ; 
but  w^hen  they  are  set  apart  as  offerings,  or  to  be  sent  to  other 


CHAP.    III. — SLAVERY    AND    THE    SLAVE    TRADE.  53 

lands,  their  fate  is  most  deplorable.  Tens  of  thousands  of  poor 
slaves  are  collected  to  be  offered  up  as  human  sacrifices,  in  the 
performance  of  bloody  superstitious  rites,  as  we  have  already 
seen  ;  and  millions  more  have  been  dragged  away  from  the  land 
of  tlieir  birth,  and  doomed  to  wear  out  their  lives  in  helpless 
bondage,  for  the  benefit  of  others,  as  we  shall  yet  have  to  relate 
more  particularly. 

But  we  cannot  dismiss  tiie  subject  of  slavery  in  Africa  with- 
out a  few  remarks  on  the  condition  to  which  slaves  are  there 
reduced,  and  the  treatment  which  they  generally  receive  at  the 
hands  of  their  masters. 

The  apologists  of  Negro  slavery  have  frequently  expatiated  on 
the  real  or  supposed  instances  of  kind  treatment  on  the  part  of 
slave  owners  ;  and  we  are  free  to  admit  that,  in  the  course  of 
our  missionary  experience,  we  have  met  with  such  cases.  Even  in 
Africa  itself  there  is  a  marked  difference  between  the  condition 
of  domestic  slaves,  that  is,  those  who  have  been  born  and 
brought  up  in  the  families  of  their  masters,  and  those  who  have 
been  taken  in  war,  or  purchased  with  money.  It  is  the  general 
rule  not  to  sell,  or  otherwise  dispose  of,  the  former ;  but  the 
latter  are  regarded  as  so  much  stock  on  hand  for  the  purpose  of 
barter.  Domestic  slaves  are,  moreover,  usually  treated  with 
CQusiderable  leuity,  and  sometimes  even  advanced  to  stations 
of  confidence  and  authority,  as  was  Joseph  in  Egypt. 

But  in  its  mildest  form  slavery  is  s/ayer^;  and  wherever  it 
exists,  and  under  whatever  circumstances,  it  exhibits  the  same 
moral  deformity,  and  ought  to  be  viewed  with  detestation,  and 
reprobated  with  boldness,  by  every  one  who  bears  the  Chris- 
tian name.  However  mildly  treated,  it  must  be  remembered 
that  the  poor  slave  has  no  real  property  in  himself,  nor  in  any- 
tliing  which  he  may  be  said  to  possess.  His  goods,  his  wife, 
his  children,  his  body,  bones,  flesh,  blood,  and  sinews,  are  not 
his  own.  They  belong  to  his  master,  and  are  entirely  at  his 
disposal.  He  lives,  and  breathes,  and  moves  not  for  himself, 
but  for  the  pleasure  and  profit  of  a  fellow  mortal ;  and  is  liable 
to  the  most  unkind  and  cruel  treatment,  at  the  whim  and 
caprice  of  his  owner. 

Whilst  domestic  slaves  in  Africa  are  in  general  exempt  from 


54  PART  I, — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

harsh  treatment,  it  is  otherwise  with  those  who  are  literally 
held  as  merchandise  for  the  purpose  of  traffic.  These  are  not 
only  torn  away  from  everything;  which  is  dear  to  them  on  earth, 
— separated  from  parents,  brothers,  sisters,  and  friends, — but 
they  are  confined  in  chains,  flogged,  driven  from  place  to  place, 
as  sheep  for  the  market.  Listen  to  the  sorrowful  words  of  one 
who  had  himself  tasted  the  bitter  cup  of  bondage.  "  When 
we  came  to  that  place,  1  was  quite  faint ,  for  I  had  been  without 
food  some  time.  I  began  to  weep,  and  fell  to  the  ground. 
My  master  lifted  his  hand  and  knocked  me  about  the  head, 
saying  he  would  kill  me  and  eat  me.  I  thought  then  all  was 
over.  I  expected  that  the  dagger  would  be  driven  into  my 
bowels  every  moment."  In  that  land  of  darkness,  cruelty, 
and  blood,  a  master  may  take  away  the  life  of  his  slave  with 
impunity ;  and,  what  is  still  worse,  in  some  districts  the  female 
part  of  the  slave  population  are  commonly  and  systematically 
let  out  for  hire  for  the  purpose  of  prostitution,  and  are  liable  to 
the  grossest  abuses  to  which  their  savage  masters  may  choose  to 
subject  them. 

Such  is  slavery  in  Western  Africa,  its  own  original  home ;  but 
we  have  a  still  darker  page  to  turn  over.  AYe  have  to  consider 
the  slave  trade,  properly  so  called, — the  traffic  in  which  Africa 
was  induced  to  engage  with  foreign  countries  for  the  flesh  and 
blood,  the  bodies  and  souls,  of  her  own  sons. 

Upwards  of  four  hundred  years  ago  several  attempts  were 
made  by  enterprising  Portuguese  navigators  to  explore  the 
coast  of  Africa.  At  length  th-ey  succeeded  in  passing  the 
Canary  Islands,  Cape  Verd,  and  along  the  coast  of  Guinea. 
The  third  or  fourth  of  these  attempts  brought  them  into  contact 
with  the  Negroes.  As  early  as  1434,  Antonio  Gonzales,  a 
Portuguese  Captain,  landed  on  the  Gold  Coast,  and  carried 
away  with  him  some  Negro  boys,  whom  he  sold  to  one  or  two 
Moorish  families  in  the  south  of  Spain.  This  act  seems  to  have 
excited  some  criticism  at  the  time ;  but  from  that  day  it  became 
customary  for  the  Captains  of  vessels  visiting  the  coast  of 
Africa  to  carry  away  a  few  young  Negroes  of  both  sexes.  The 
labour  of  these  Negroes,  whether  on  board  the  ships  which 
carried  them  away,  or  in  the  ports  to  which  the  ships  belonged, 


CHAP    III. — SLAVERY    AND    THE    SLAVE    TRADE.  55 

being  found  valuable,  the  practice  soon  grew  into  a  regular  traffic ; 
and  Negroes,  instead  of  being  taken  away  in  twos  and  threes, 
as  mere  curiosities,  soon  came  to  form  a  part  of  the  regular 
cargo,  as  well  as  gold,  ivory,  and  gum.  The  ships  no  longer 
went  on  voyages  of  discovery,  but  for  valuable  cargoes;  and 
the  inhabitants  of  the  Negro  villages  along  the  coast,  delighted 
with  the  beads,  buttons,  knives,  and  other  trinkets  which 
they  got  in  exchange  for  gold,  ivory,  and  slaves,  took  care  to 
have  these  articles  ready  for  the  vess{4s  when  they  arrived. 
Thus  the  slave  trade  was  commenced  by  the  Portuguese,  but 
the  Spaniards  soon  after  joined  them  in  the  infamous  traffic. 

Perhaps  this  strange  and  iniquitous  species  of  mercantile 
trade  would  never  have  become  very  extensive,  had  not  a  circum- 
stance occurred  which  gave  it  a  great  impetus.  This  was  the 
discovery  of  America  and  the  West  Indies  by  the  celebrated 
Columbus,  in  the  year  1493.  When  the  Spaniards  first  took 
possession  of  the  islands,  they  em})loyed  the  natives,  or  Indians, 
as  they  called  them,  to  do  all  their  heavy  kinds  of  work,  as 
cultivating  the  ground,  carrying  burdens,  and  digging  for  gold. 
In  fact,  these  Indians,  ere  long,  becauie  the  slaves  of  their 
Spanish  conquerors  ;  and  it  was  customary,  in  assigning  lands  to 
a  person,  to  make  over  to  him  at  the  same  time  all  the  natives 
residing  upon  them. 

It  was  soon  evident,  however,  that  these  poor,  timid,  listless 
aborigines  of  the  West  Indies,  accustomed  only  to  hunting  and 
■fishing,  were  not  only  indisposed,  but  totally  unfit  for  arduous  toil. 
Under  the  united  influence  of  hard  labour,  cruel  treatment,  and 
disease  introduced  by  the  strangers,  they  melted  away  in  the 
presence  of  their  conquerors,  with  a  rapidity  truly  alarming.  In 
a  few  years  after  the  arrival  of  the  Spaniards,  tens  of  thousands 
perished.  When  Albuquerque  entered  upon  his  office  as 
Governor  of  St.  Domingo,  in  1515,  he  found  that,  whereas  in 
1508  the  natives  numbered  60,000,  they  did  not  then  amount 
to  14,000 ;  and  there  appeared  nothing  in  prospect  but  the 
ultimate  extinction  of  the  entire  race  of  Indians,  if  the  same 
system  of  cruelty  and  oppression  should  be  continued. 

Under  these  circumstances  the  enterprising  but  avaricious 
colonists  Avere  led  to  consider  what  could  be  done  to  meet  the 


56  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

emergency.  Labourers  must  be  had  from  some  quarter ;  and 
the  idea  was  sugo-ested  that  African  Negroes  woukl  be  best 
adapted  for  the  purpose.  As  early  as  1503,  a  few  Negroes 
had  been  carried  across  the  Ath^ntic ;  and  it  was  found  not  only 
that  each  of  these  Negroes  could  do  as  much  work  as  four  Indians, 
but  that,  while  the  Indians  were  fast  becoming  extinct,  the 
Africans  were  thriving  wonderfully,  and  even  increasing  in 
number.  It  was  now  resolved  to  import  Negroes  as  fast  as 
possible,  which  was  accordingly  done.  The  old  Spanish 
historian  Herrera  informs  us  that,  "in  the  year  1510,  the  King 
of  Spain  ordered  fifty  Negro  slaves  to  be  sent  to  Hispaniola,  to 
work  in  the  gold  mines ;  the  natives  being  looked  upon  as  a 
weak  people,  and  unfit  for  much  labour."  This  was  but  the 
beginning  of  the  accursed  slave  trade  ;  for,  notwithstanding  the 
remonstrances  of  some  of  the  Romish  Priests  and  Cardinals,  who 
felt  the  wrong  that  was  being  inflicted  upon  the  poor  Negroes, 
cargo  after  cargo  was  carried  in  rapid  succession  to  this  and 
other  islands  of  the  West  Indies.  In  the  records  of  this  dark 
period  we  find  Charles  V.  giving  one  of  his  Flemish  favourites 
the  exclusive  right  of  shipping  four  thousand  Negroes  to  the  New 
World;  but  this  large  number  fell  far  short  of  meeting  the  rapidly 
increasing  demand  for  labourers,  and  it  was  soon  followed  by 
the  importation  of  tens  of  thousands  into  the  new  colonies. 

The  African  slave  trade,  thus  inaugurated  by  the  Spaniards, 
was  not  long  left  entirely  in  their  harids.  At  first  the  Spaniards 
had  all  America  and  the  West  Indies  to  themselves  ;  and  as 
it  was  in  these  countries  that  African  labourers  were  in  the 
greatest  demand,  the  Spaniards  alone  possessed  large  numbers 
of  Negroes.  But  other  nations  soon  came  to  have  colonies  in 
the  New  World ;  and  as  Negroes  were  found  to  be  invaluable  in 
the  foundation  of  a  new  colony,  other  nations  came  to  participate 
in  the  guilt  of  this  new  traffic.  The  firat  recognition  of  the 
slave  trade  by  the  English  Government  was  in  1562,  in  the 
reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  vvhen  an  Act  was  passed  legalizing 
the  purchase  of  Negroes.  This  was  to  meet  the  demand  antici- 
pated by  the  planting  of  the  first  British  colonies  on  the  conti- 
nent of  America.  But,  these  early  eft'orts  at  colonization  being 
unsuccessful,  it  was  not  till   1616  that   the  first  Negroes  were 


CHAP.    III. — SLAVERY    AND    THE    SLAVE    TRADE.  57 

imported  into  Virginia ;  and  these  were  brought  over,  not  by  an 
English  slave  ship,  but  by  a  Dutch  vessel  which  touched  at  the 
coast,  with  a  cargo  of  Negroes  for  the  Spanish  colonies.  After 
this,  however,  the  English  were  no  longer  indebted  to  foreign 
ships  for  this  kind  of  service  ;  but,  with  a  view  to  the  large 
profits  which  were  to  be  realized,  they  launched  into  the  slave 
trade  with  characteristic  zeal  and  earnestness,  carrying  on  an 
extensive  trade  with  the  coast  of  Africa  for  slaves,  gold,  ivor}', 
and  bees-wax.  The  French,  Dutch,  and  all  other  nations  of 
any  commercial  importance,  soon  became  involved  in  the 
traffic  ;  those  who  had  colonies,  to  supply  the  demand  there  ;  and 
those  who  had  none,  to  make  money  by  assisting  to  supply  the 
demands  of  other  countries.  Before  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  the  African  slave  trade  was  in  full  vigour ;  and  all 
Europe  was  implicated  in  the  buying  and  selling  of  Negroes.  It 
is  stated  by  Macpherson,  in  his  "  History  of  Commerce,"  that 
"the  number  of  Africans  shipped  in  1768,  by  all  nations,  for 
America  and  the  West  Indies,  was  estimated  at  97,000;  that 
of  these  the  British  shipping  took  60,000,  and  the  French 
23,000;  the  remainder  being  divided  in  small  portions  among  the 
ships  of  other  nations,  the  Portuguese  at  that  time  only  taking 
1,700."  In  succeeding  years  the  slave  trade  became  still  more 
extensive  ;  and  it  has  been  estimated  that  in  the  course  of  a 
single  century  2,130,000  Negroes  were  imported  into  the 
British  West  Indies  alone,  independent  of  the  vast  multitudes 
enslaved  by  other  nations.  As  far  back  as  1732,  Liverpool 
alone,  in  one  year,  procured  22,720  slaves;  the  net  profits  being 
£214,617. 

The  effects  produced  in  Africa  itself,  by  this  wholesale  traffic 
in  her  own  children,  may  be  more  readily  imagined  than  de- 
scribed. It  stamped  with  a  tenfold  curse  that  system  of 
slavery  which  had  previously  existed  for  so  many  years  in  that 
dark  benighted  land.  The  demand  for  slaves  was  now  so  greats 
and  the  prices  offered  by  the  Captains  of  slave  ships,  in  red 
cloth,  knives,  looking  glasses,  beads,  and  other  trinkets,  were  so 
tempting  that  all  kinds  of  means  w^re  adopted  to  procure  the 
required  number  of  victims.  Domestic  slaves,  who  had  hitherto 
been  a  privileged  class,  were  now  frequently  sold  and  sent  olf 


58  PAKT  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

for  the  most  trifling  ofiences.  Petty  wars  were  waged  for  the 
express  purpose  of  seizing  and  dragging  into  hopeless  bond- 
age young  Negroes  of  both  sexes ;  the  old  people  and  infants 
being  frequently  put  to  death  as  not  available  for  the  purpose. 
Wicked  men  were  perpetually  prowling  about  with  a  view  to  kid- 
nap and  carry  off  those  who  came  within  their  reach ;  and  it 
was  not  an  unusual  circumstance  for  a  friend,  a  brother,  a  sister, 
or  a  child,  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  the  "  man-stealer,"  who 
thus  stood  related  to  his  helpless  victim  by  the  tenderest  ties  of 
nature.  This  state  of  strife  and  enmity,  and  earnest  desire  to 
enslave  each  other  for  the  sake  of  paltry  gain,  was  not  confined 
to  the  immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  coast,  but  extended  to 
the  interior  of  the  vast  continent.  In  this  way  Central  Africa 
came  to  be  the  great  mother  of  the  slaves  required  for  expor- 
tation ;  and  tlie  Kegro  villages  on  the  coast,  under  the  control 
of  petty  interested  native  Chiefs,  were  converted  into  so  many 
nurseries  or  warehouses,  where  the  Negroes  were  kept  till  the 
ships  of  the  white  men  came  to  carry  them  across  the  Atlantic. 

As  the  slave  trade  became  fully  organized,  means  were  adopted 
by  the  European  merchants  to  secure  greater  constancy  and 
regularity  in  the  supply  of  Negroes.  At  first  the  slave  vessels 
only  visited  the  coast  of  Africa  in  a  casual  way,  and  bargained 
with  the  native  Chiefs  and  head  men  for  such  slaves  or  other 
produce  as  they  happened  to  have  on  hand.  But  this  was 
found  to  be  an  inconvenient  and  clumsy  mode  of  conducting 
the  business.  The  ships  had  to  sail  along  an  extensive  tract  of 
coast,  picking  up  a  little  ivory  at  one  place,  and  a  few  slaves  at 
another,  and  were  thus  often  delayed  till  the  sickly  season  set  in, 
when  all  hands  were  prostrated  by  fever,  and  many  removed  by 
death.  As  an  improvement  on  this  m.ethod  of  trading,  the  plan 
was  adopted  of  organizing  African  trading  companies,  and  of 
planting  a  number  of  European  settlements  at  intervals  along 
the  coast,  with  regular  agents,  whose  business  it  should  be  to 
negotiate  with  the  native  traders,  stimulate  them  to  activity  in 
their  slave  hunting  expeditions,  and  purchase  slaves  and  other 
produce,  in  order  that  the  cargoes  might  be  ready  when  the  ships 
arrived  at  the  proper  season.  These  settlements  were  called 
slave  factories.     Establishments  of  this  kind  were  planted  all 


CHAP.    HI.  —  SLAVERY    AND    THE    SLAVE    TEADE.  59 

along  the  Western  Coast  of  Africa,  from  Cape  Yerd  to  the 
Equator,  by  English,  Dutch,  and  Portuguese  companies,  or  indi- 
vidual traders.  Their  appearance,  the  character  of  the  men 
employed  in  them,  their  internal  arrangements,  and  their  mode 
of  carrying  on  the  traffic,  are  vividly  described  by  Howison,  in 
his  boo^  on  "  European  Colonies,"  and  by  other  writers  who 
were  engaged  *in  the  controversial  discussion  of  African  affairs 
about  the  beginning  of  the  present  century  ;  but  into  these 
particulars  we  cannot  here  enter. 

The  junior  factors,  who  are  spoken  of  as  penetrating  into 
the  interior,  and  forming  branch  establishments  for  the  carrying 
on  of  the  slave  trade,  exerted  a  fearfully  demoralizing  influence 
upon  the  people.  To  say  nothing  of  the  lives  of  dissipation  and 
sensuality  which  they  led,  and  the  example  which  they  set 
before  the  natives,  they  were  the  direct  means  of  calling  into 
existence  a  vast  number  of  slave  markets  in  various  parts  of 
the  country ;  and  of  giving  to  the  abominable  traffic  a  character 
of  horror  and  cruelty  unknown  before.  To  recite  the  testi- 
monies of  individual  travellers  who  occasionally  visited  the 
country,  and  to  dwell  on  the-  instances  of  suffering  which  they 
witnessed,  as  the  poor  Negroes  were  being  driven  from  the  land 
of  their  birth,  would  be  to  tell  a  tale  of  woe  which  might  well 
arouse  the  feelings  of  the  most  obdurate  heart.  Hence  we  are 
not  surprised  that,  in  process  of  time,  attention  should  have 
been  directed  to  the  enormities  of  this  wholesale  system  of 
man-stealing  and  murder  ;  or  that,  in  highly  favoured  England, 
even  in  an  age  of  comparative  darkness,  means  should  have 
been  devised  to  put  an  end  to  it. 

Having  thus  briefly  traced  the  rise,  progress,  extent,  and 
character  of  the  African  slave  trade,  we  would  now  direct  the 
attention  of  the  reader  to  the  circumstances  which  led  to  its 
nominal  abolition,  and  to  the  real  state  of  the  question  as  it 
exists  at  the  present  day. 

As  early  as  the  year  1512, — when  the  importation  of  Negroes 
to  the  West  Indies  began  to  assume  the  character  of  a  regular 
trade,  to  supply  the  place  of  the  poor  Indians,  who  were 
fast  passing  away, — Cardinal  Xiraenes  protested  against  the 
thing  as  a  sin  against  God  and  man  ;  but  such  was  the  cupidity 


60  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

of  the  parties  interested  that  his  pious  remonstrance  was  disre- 
garded. In  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth  century,  the  Rev. 
Morgan  Godwyn,  an  English  Clergyman,  who  had  himself  wit- 
nessed the  horrors  of  slavery  in  the  island  of  Barbadoes, 
broached  the  subject  by  writing  upon  it  in  a  book  called  "  Tne 
Negro  and  Indian's  Advocate  ;"  and  about  a  century  lafer  John 
Woolinan  and  Anthony  Benezet,  two  members  of  the  Society  of 
Friends  in  America,  were  fully  possessed  with  the  abolition 
spirit.  Woolman  travelled  far  and  near  among  the  people  of 
his  own  persuation,  trying  to  get  them  to  relinquish  all  con- 
nexion with  the  traffic  in  Negroes  ;  and  Benezet  founded  and 
taught  a  Negro  school  in  Philadelphia,  whilst  at  the  same  iiiue 
he  denounced  the  slave  trade  in  various  publications.  So 
powerful  was  the  effect  produced  by  the  united  labours  of  these 
two  men,  especially  upon  the  religious  community  to  whicli  they 
belonged,  that  in  the  year  1754  the  "Friends,"  in  America 
came  to  a  resolution,  declaring  "  that,  to  live  in  ease  and  plenty 
by  the  toil  of  those  whom  fraud  and  violence  had  put  into  their 
power,  was  consistent  neither  with  Christianity  nor  with  common 
justice."  This  declaration  was  followed  up  by  the  abolition  of 
slave  labour  among  the  "  Friends," — the  penalty  of  keeping  a 
slave  being  excommunication  from  the  Society.  From  this 
time  the  Society  of  Friends,  as  a  religious  community,  dis- 
tinguished themselves  by  unwearied  efforts  to  ameliorate  the 
condition  of  the  poor  Negro  ;  and  the  first  petition  ever  pre- 
sented to  the  British  Parliament  on  the  subject  of  slavery, 
emanated  from  them. 

A  committee  of  benevolent  gentlemen  was  at  length  organized, 
for  the  express  purpose  of  procuring  the  abolition  of  the  African 
slave  trade,  and  public  feeling  was  aroused  to  a  state  of  great 
excitement  on  the  subject.  Several  talented  aiid  powerful 
writers  also  appeared  on  the  stage  of  action,  at  an  early  period, 
as  the  friends  and  advocates  of  the  Negro  race.  Amongst  these 
may  be  mentioned  Eiciiard  Baxter,  Bishop  Porteus,  James 
Eamsay,  Joseph  Woods,  George  VVhitefield,  and  John  Wesley. 
Some  of  these  honoured  Ministers  of  the  Gospel  were  able  to 
speak  and  write  from  experience,  having  witnessed  the  abomi- 
nations   of  slavery   in   America   and   the    West   Indies.     Mr. 


CHAP.    III. — SLAVEEY    AND    THE    SLATE    TRADE.  61 

Wesley,  especially,  took  up  the  subject  with  characteristic  zeal 
and  earnestness.  In  his  masterly  tractate,  entitled  "  Thoughts 
on  Slavery,"  he  denounced  the  traffic  in  human  beinos  as  the 
"  sum  of  all  villauies,"  and  placed  the  subject,  in  all  its  bearings, 
in  a  most  convincing  and  impressive  light  before  the  British 
public.  The  interest  of  the  venerable  founder  of  Methodism 
in  the  oppressed  Negro  race  continued  unabated  to  the  end  of  his 
useful  life ;  and  it  is  an  interesting  fact  that  the  last  letter  that 
he  ever  wrote  was  addressed  to  Mr.  Wilberforce  on  the  subject 
a  few  days  before  his  death,  urging  the  philanthropist  to  proceed 
in  his  "  glorious  enterprise"  of  seeking  the  entire  abolition  of 
the  accursed  traffic.  "  Go  on,"  he  writes,  "  in  the  name  of 
God,  and  in  the  power  of  His  might,  till  even  American  slavery 
(the  vilest  that  ever  saw  the  sun)  shall  vanish  away  before  it." 

In  every  historical  sketch  of  the  anti-slavery  movement  in 
England,  however  brief,  honourable  mention  must  be  made  of 
three  other  noble-minded  and  philanthropic  gentlemen  who 
took  a  prominent  part  in  the  political  struggle  with  which  it 
was  attended.  We  allude  to  Granville  Sharp,  Thomas  Clark- 
son,  and  William  Wilberforce.  These  were  the  three  brightest 
stars  of  the  moral  hemisphere,  during  the  age  in  which  they 
lived,  around  which  other  labourers  in  the  cause  of  emancipation 
revolved  as  mere  satellites. 

About  the  year  1765,  the  case  of  a  poor  Negro,  whom  his 
master  had  cast  adrift  in  a  state  of  disease  in  London,  attracted 
the  notice  of  the  benevolent  Mr.  Sharp,  and  induced  him  to 
espouse  the  cause  of  the  suffering  Negroes  in  general.  He  per- 
severed in  exposing  every  case  of  sale  or  seizure  of  slaves  in 
England ;  and  finally,  by  an  action  at  law,  to  prevent  a  Negro 
named  Somerset  from  being  forcibly  taken  away  by  his 
master,  procured  from  the  bench,  in  1772,  that  famous  decision 
that,  "when  a  slave  puts  his  foot  on  English  ground,  he  is  free." 
It  was  this  circumstance  which  elicited  from  Cowper  the  fol- 
lowing beautiful  lines  : — 

"  Slaves  cannot  breathe  iu  England :  if  their  lungs 
Imbibe  our  air,  that  moment  they  are  free: 
They  touch  our  country,  and  their  shackles  faU. 
That's  noble,  and  bespeaks  a  nation  proud 


62  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

And  jealous  of  the  blessing.     Spread  on,  then, 
And  let  it  circulate  through  every  vein 
Of  all  our  empire  :  that  where  Britain's  power 
Is  felt,  mankind  may  feel  her  mercy  too." 

In  1785  the  Vice-Chancellor  of  the  University  of  Cambridge 
proposed  "  the  slave  trade,"  as  the  subject  of  a  prize  essay. 
This  prize  was  gained  by  the  philanthropic  Mr.  Clarkson,  then  a 
young  man  of  twenty-four.  The  study  of  the  subject,  in  con- 
nexion with  the  preparation  of  his  Essay,  made  such  a  powerful 
impression  upon  the  mind  of  the  young  studerjt  that  he  was 
induced,  from  that  time,  to  consecrate  all  his  powers  of  body 
and  mind  to  the  cause  of  abolition.  He  visited  every  person 
that  he  could  find,  in  and  arouud  London,  who  had  been  in 
Africa  or  the  West  Indies,  or  in  any  situation  which  gave  them 
an  insight  into  the  slave  trade.  He  boarded  vessels  that  had 
been  engaged  in  the  traffic,  and  inspected  the  wretched  apart- 
ments in  which  the  slaves  had  been  confined  during  their 
passage  across  the  Atlantic.  In  one  word,  he  devoted  his  whole 
life  to  waging  an  implacable  war  against  slavery  and  the  slave 
trade  in  all  their  horrid  forms. 

The  evidence  collected  by  Clarkson  on  the  subject  of  the 
slave  trade,  attracted  the  attention  of  Wilberforce,  and  secured 
his  valuable  co-operation.  On  Sunday,  the  28th  of  October, 
1787,  Mr.  Wilberforce  made  this  striking  entry  in  his  Journal : 
"  God  Almighty  has  placed  before  me  two  great  objects, — the 
suppression  of  the  slave  trade,  and  the  reformation  of  manners." 
The  reformation  of  manners  he  did  not  accomplish,  but  the 
suppression  of  the  slave  trade  he  did  ;  and  just  before  he  passed 
away  from  this  world,  he  was  cheered  with  the  delightful  intel- 
ligence that  the  royal  assent  had  been  given  to  the  Bill  entirely 
abolishing  slavery  from  the  British  dominions.  This  was  the 
result  of  a  long  and  arduous  struggle,  however;  audit  required 
the  united  and  constant  eftbrts  of  Wilberforce,  Clarkson,  and 
Sharp,  together  with  others  of  the  pov;erful  confederacy  which 
they  organized  to  carry  on  the  campaign. 

Por  twenty  years  did  this  noble  band  of  Christian  philanthro- 
pists labour,  before  the  first  great  object  at  which  they  aimed 
was  fully  accomplished.     Information  on  the  extent  and  abomi- 


CHAP.    III. — SLAVERY    AND    THE     SLAVE    TRADE.  63 

nations  of  the  slave  trade  was  carefully  collected  and  zealously 
circulated ;  Parliament  was  urged  by  petitions  to  interpose  on 
behalf  of  the  poor  Neg-roes  :  but,  although  some  minor  measures 
were  adopted,  professedly  to  abate  some  of  the  cruelties  of  the 
traffic,  for  seven  years  in  succession  was  Mr.  VViJberforce's 
annual  motion  for  its  abolition  thrown  out.  Such  was  the 
result  of  the  influence  exercised  by  interested  parties  both  in 
England  and  in  the  colonies.  Still  the  friends  of  freedom  per- 
severed in  their  noble  work  ;  and,  by  the  blessing  of  God,  their 
efforts  were  at  length  crowned  with  complete  success.  The  Bill 
for  the  total  abolition  of  the  British  slave  trade,  on  and  after 
tlie  1st  of  January,  1808,  passed  both  Houses  of  Parliament, 
received  the  royal  assent,  and  was  left  to  take  its  course 
accordingly. 

Perhaps  it  may  be  necessary  here  to  remind  the  reader  of 
the  difference  between  the  slave  trade  and  slavery.  By  the 
first  we  are  to  understand  traffic  in  human  beings,  when  they 
are  torn  away  from  their  country  and  their  homes ;  and  by  the 
second  is  meant  that  state  of  servitude  and  bondage  to  which 
they  are  thereby  reduced.  The  slave  trade,  so  far  as  England  was 
concerned,  was  now  abolished  by  law  ;  and  it  was  made  criminal 
for  any  one  to  purchase  and  take  away  slaves  from  the  coast  of 
Africa,  or  from  any  other  country.  But  notwithstanding  the 
achievement  of  this  great  object,  slavery  itself  still  continued  in 
the  British  colonies  with  unabated  rigour,  and  the  accounts 
which  were  received  from  time  to  time  ol'  the  sufferings  of  the 
Negroes  wei-e  truly  appalling. 

The  friends  of  the  oppressed  Negro  race,  encouraged  by  the 
result  of  their  past  labours,  now  re-organized  their  forces,  and 
commenced  a  vigorous  crusade  against  slavery  itself,  as  they  had 
before  done  against  the  slave  trade.  They  openly  avowed  their 
intention  to  agitate  without  ceasing,  till  slavery  should  be 
utterly  abolished  from  the  British  empire.  They  nobly  kept 
their  word  ;  but  it  was  not  till  after  another  twenty-six  years  of 
arduous  toil  that  their  object  was  fully  gained.  This  interval  is 
crowded  with  the  most  interesting  incidents  connected  with  this 
philanthropic  movement ;  but  our  limited  space  will  only  admit 
of  a  verv  brief  outline. 


64  PART.  I. ^^ESTERN  AFRICA. 

As  years  rolled  on,  several  of  the  earlier  labourers  in  the 
cause  of  emancipation  were  removed  by  death  ;  but  their  places 
were  supplied  by  others  who  were  raised  up  in  the  order  of 
Divine  providence.  The  venerable  Wilberforce  himself  felt  the 
influence  of  age  and  debility  creeping  upon  hira  ;  and  being  less 
able  than  formerly  to  plead  the  cause  of  the  oppressed,  both  in 
and  out  of  Parliament,  he  began  to  look  around  for  some  one 
who  would  be  able  and  willing  to  take  his  place  as  the  acknow- 
ledged leader  of  the  movement.  His  eye  fell  upon  the  late  Sir 
Fowell  Buxton,  then  in  the  prime  of  life ;  and  he  solemnly 
urged  him  to  come  to  his  aid,  and  to  take  his  place  when  his 
strength  should  fail.  After  mature  deliberation  the  weighty 
charge  was  accepted ;  and  henceforth  the  name  of  Buxton 
became  prominently  identified  with  the  struggle  for  the  entire 
abolition  of  slavery. 

The  Anti-Slavery  Society  was  now  formed ;  and  the  most 
strenuous  efforts  were  made  to  procure  and  circulate  authentic 
information  on  the  treatment  of  the  Negroes,  and  other  matters 
connected  with  the  question  at  issue,  as  well  as  in  holding 
public  meetings  in  various  parts  of  the  country,  to  bring  the 
subject  fully  before  the  people  of  the  United  Kingdom.  The 
effect  produced  by  these  measures  upon  the  planting  interest  at 
home  and  abroad,  maybe  readily  imagined.  A  strong  feeling  of 
hostility  and  opposition  was  excited  against  all  who  professed  to 
be  the  friends  of  freedom,  and  especially  against  the  Missionaries 
in  the  West  Indies,  who  were  very  improperly  considered  as 
identified  with  the  Abolition  movement  in  England.  These 
unoffending  servants  of  the  Lord  Jesus  were  cruelly  persecuted. 
In  many  instances,  they  were  maltreated  and  imprisoned ;  and 
their  dwellings  and  places  of  worship  were  laid  in  ruins  by 
ruthless  mobs,  who  knew  not  what  they  did.  These  apparently 
untoward  circumstances  were  overruled  for  good.  They  tended 
to  arouse  the  nation  to  a  feeling  of  righteous  indignation 
against  a  system  which  was  capable  of  such  atrocities ;  for  it 
was  well  understood  that  slavery  was  at  the  root  of  all  these 
things. 

At  length  the  nation  arose  cu  wasse,  and  demanded  of  the 
Government  that   the  slaves  should  be  emancipated.     In  the 


CHAP.    III. — SLAVERY    AND    THE    SLAVE    TRADE.  65 

year  1831,  upwards  of  five  thousand  petitions  were  presented  to 
Parliament ;  and  two  years  subsequently,  after  the  most  ani- 
mated debates  upon  the  subject,  a  Bill  was  passed,  by  an 
overwhelming  majority,  securing  the  freedom  of  all  the  slaves 
in  the  British  empire,  on  the  1st  of  August,  1834  ;  and  award- 
ing twenty  millions  of  pounds  sterling  to  be  divided  among  their 
proprietors,  as  compensation  for  the  loss  which  they  were  sup- 
posed to  sustain  by  the  arrangement.  It  was  stipulated, 
however,  that  only  the  children  of  six  years  of  age,  and  under, 
were  to  be  fully  free  at  once.  Domestic  slaves  were  to  serve 
an  "  apprenticeship  "  for  four  years,  and  field  Negroes  for  six 
years,  professedly  to  prepare  them  for  entire  freedom.  This 
was  a  great  mistake,  as  the  apprenticeship  turned  out  to  be 
nothing  better  than  a  modified  form  of  slavery,  and  was 
attended  with  many  peculiarly  aggravating  circumstances.  But 
time  passed  away ;  and  at  the  end  of  four  years  the  slaves  were 
found  to  be  so  well  prepared  for  the  boon  of  freedom,  and  the 
apprenticeship  was  w^orking  so  badly  for  all  parties,  that  the 
respective  local  legislatures  resolved  to  remit  the  remaining  two 
years  of  servitude  to  the  field  labourers,  and  all  were  fully 
emancipated  on  the  1st  of  August,  1838.  Thus  were  800,000 
poor  slaves  delivered  from  the  galling  yoke  of  bondage  in  the 
British  colonies,  by  the  united  efforts  of  Christian  philan- 
thropists and  Christian  Missionaries,  by  whose  unwearied 
labours  they  were  raised  to  the  position  of  men  and  brethren. 
The  day  of  freedom  was  everywhere  observed  with  solemn 
religious  services,  and  thanksgiving  to  God;  and  the  writer 
will  never  forget  with  what  earnestness  the  assembled 
thousands  sang  the  praises  of  Jehovah  in  His  sanctuary,  and 
with  v/hat  attention  they  listened  to  the  exhortations  and  coun- 
sels which  were  given  them,  in  reference  to  their  future  conduct, 
on  the  memorable  occasion. 

After  this  brief  sketch  of  the  early  history  of  the  slave  trade, 
its  abolition  by  the  British  Government,  and  the  abolition  of 
slavery  itself  throughout  the  British  empire,  the  question  may 
be  very  properly  asked,  "Has  the  African  slave  trade,  then, 
ceased  to  exist  ?  "  Would  to  God  we  could  answer  in  the 
affirmative  !     But,  alas  !  this  is  not  the  case.     We  grieve  to  say 

1" 


66  PAKT   I. — WESTERN   AFRICA. 

that  altliougli  England  lias  washed  her  hands  from  the  foul 
stain  of  being  connected  with  the  accursed  traffic  in  human 
beings,  it  is  still  carried  on  by  people  of  other  nations  to  as 
great  an  extent,  if  not  greater,  than  ever. 

The  efforts  made  by  the  British  Government  to  put  a  final 
termination  to  the  African  slave  trade,  are  deserving  of  all 
praise.  By  mutual  treaties,  and  diplomatic  influence,  other 
nations  were  not  only  induced  to  join  in  the  general  protest 
against  the  nefarious  traffic,  but  they  also  agreed  to  punish  as 
pirates  all  who  might  henceforth  be  found  engaging  in  it. 
England  has,  moreover,  spent  hundreds  of  thousands  of  pounds 
in  well-meant  endeavours  to  prevent  this  crying  evil,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  twenty  millions  of  compensation  money  paid  to  the 
planters,  when  slavery  itself  was  finally  abolished  in  the  British 
colonies.  A  large  number  of  armed  vessels  have  been  kept  for 
many  years  cruising  off  the  coast  of  Africa,  and  in  other  seas, 
Avith  a  view  to  intercept  slavers,  to  liberate  the  poor  slaves,  and 
to  bring  to  justice  the  incorrigible  offenders.  But,  notwith- 
standing the  severity  of  the  penalty,  and  the  vigilance  of  British 
cruisers,  such  are  the  inducements  offered,  in  the  shape  of  large 
profits,  that  scores  of  vessels  are  still  employed  in  carrying  on  a 
smuggling  traffic  in  slaves.  These  smugglers  employ  fast- 
sailing  vessels  of  small  tonnage ;  and,  watching  their  oppor- 
tunity, steal  off  with  a  cargo  of  slaves  when  they  think  there  is 
no  man-of-war  near  at  the  time.  Occasionally,  these  daring 
adventurers  are  overtaken  and  captured;  but  for  this  the  slave 
dealers  do  not  care  much,  because  they  calculate  that  if  they 
can  get  clear  away  with  two  cargoes  out  of  every  three  which 
they  take  on  board,  the  traffic  will  pay  very  well. 

With  regard  to  the  extent  to  which  the  slave  trade  still 
prevails,  we  would  merely  observe  that  competent  persons,  with 
ample  means  of  information  within  their  reach,  have  estimated 
the  number  of  Africans  annually  torn  away  from  their  homes 
into  abject  slavery,  at  the  astonishing  number  of  500,000.  Of 
these  it  is  calculated  that  300,000  perish  on  their  march 
down  to  the  coast,  on  the  fearful  middle  passage,  and  during 
their  seasoning  in  the  land  of  bondage  to  which  they  are  taken. 
It  is,  moreover,  a  melancholy  fact  that  since  rigorous  means 


CHAP.  III. — SLAVERY  AND  THE  SLAVE  TRADE.     67 

have  been  adopted  to  prevent  the  slave  trade,  its  horrors  have 
been  increased  tenfold.  The  space  allowed  for  the  Negroes 
on  board  the  slave  vessels  is  so  limited,  and  the  number  put  on 
board  is  so  large,  that  they  are  literally  packed  in  the  hold  like 
bales  of  goods  ;  which  circumstance,  together  with  ill  treatment 
and  deficiency  of  food,  is  the  cause  of  the  fearful  mortality 
which  generally  takes  place. 

In  bringing  to  a  close  his  observations  on  tin's  painful 
subject,  so  intimately  connected  with  the  weal  or  woe  of 
Western  Africa,  the  writer  wishes  he  could  enlist  the  kindly 
feelings  of  his  readers  on  behalf  of  the  long  oppressed  Negro 
race.  If  they  could  only  have  seen  for  themselves  what  he  has 
witnessed  of  the  abominations  of  slavery  in  both  hemispheres  of 
the  globe,  surely  they  would  not  be  wanting  in  sympathy, 
prayer,  and  effort,  on  behalf  of  the  still  oppressed  and  down- 
trodden sable  sons  of  Ham. 

Erom  a  long  list  of  instances  which  have  come  under  our 
own  observation,  showing  the  cruelties  of  slavery  on  the  one 
band,  and  the  capabilities  of  the  Negro  children  to' receive 
instruction  on  the  other,  we  select  the  case  of  little  Benomc, 
one  of  our  own  domestic  servants  for  several  years  in  the  AYest 
Indies.  When  this  little  Negro  girl  was  first  placed  under  our 
care,  she  had  been  but  recently  rescued  from  the  hold  of  a  slave 
ship ;  and  was,  consequently,  very  ignorant,  and  somewhat 
timid  in  her  disposition.  She  had  not  been  long  with  us, 
however,  before  she  became  more  open  and  confiding.  She 
would  sometimes  sit  down  on  the  floor  by  the  side  of  her 
mistress,  who  was  teaching  her  the  use  of  her  needle ;  and 
when  questioned  about  her  country,  and  the  history  of  her 
capture,  with  tears  starting  in  her  eyes,  she  would  tell  her 
afi'ecting  story,  which  was,  in  substance,  as  follows  : — 

Little  Benome  was  born  in  the  interior  of  Africa,  at  a  place 
called  Eadda ;  and  when  she  was  about  seven  years  of  age,  a 
report  was  brought  that  a  neighbouring  village  had  just  been 
attacked  by  a  slave-hunting  party,  and  the  inhabitants  carried 
off  into  bondage.  The  people  of  Eadda,  knowing  what  to 
expect,  fled  into  the  woods ;  and,  during  the  night,  they  saw 
■their   own   village   in  flames.     Early   the   next   morning  the 

p  2 


68  PAET   I. — WESTERN   AFRICA. 

fugitives  were  overtaken  in  their  retreat,  when  little  Benomc, 
with  her  mother,  a  brother,  and  an  elder  sister,  and  several 
others,  were  captured,  tied  together  two  and  two,  and  marched 
towards  the  coast,  like  a  flock  of  sheep  for  the  market ;  whilst 
nothing  was  heard  but  weeping,  mourning,  lamentation,  and 
woe.  On  coming  to  a  large  river  which  crossed  their  path,  the 
sister  of  Benome  was  the  last  to  ford  the  stream,  being  occupied 
by  a  child  which  she  carried  in  her  arms.  Annoyed  at  the 
delay,  the  cruel  monster  in  charge  of  the  slaves  snatched  the 
infant  from  the  arms  of  its  mother,  and  threw  it  into  the  jungle, 
where  it  was  left  to  perish,  and  urged  the  poor  captives 
onwards  in  their  march !  Having  travelled  for  several  weeks, 
they  at  length  came  in  sight  of  "  the  great  salt  water,"  which 
they  beheld  with  trembling  awe,  knowing  that  they  were  to  be 
carried  aci'oss  the  foaming  billows.  After  remaining  for  a 
length  of  time  at  Abbeokuta,  Badagry,  and  other  places,  a  slave 
ship  arrived  at  the  coast ;  and  the  poor  slaves  were  taken  on 
board,  and  left  their  native  land  for  ever. 

Long  before  the  period  of  embarkation  arrived,  little  Benome 
had  been  separated  from  her  mother,  her  sister,  and  her 
brother,  whom  she  was  never  again  permitted  to  behold  in  this 
world ;  and  the  account  which  she  gave  of  the  last  glance 
which  she  obtained  of  her  dear  mother,  as  she  was  driven  past 
the  slave  barracoon,  of  the  number  of  slaves  that  were 
drowned  as  they  were  being  taken  on  board,  and  of  the  horrors 
of  the  middle  passage,  was  truly  heartrending.  When  the 
slaver  had  been  at  sea  about  three  weeks,  they  heard  one  night 
a  tremendous  noise  on  deck,  the  trampling  of  feet,  and  the 
firing  of  guns  ;  and,  when  the  hatches  were  removed  next  morn- 
ing, the  slaves  looked  up  and  saw  several  strangers,  "gentle- 
men with  fine  coats  and  caps,  shining  with  gold."  These  were 
the  officers  of  a  British  man-of-war,  which  had  captured  the 
slaver  after  a  severe  contest,  and  who  now  called  upon  the  poor 
Negroes  to  come  up  on  deck,  assuring  them  that  they  were  now 
free !  On  ascending  from  the  hold  of  the  vessel,  they  beheld 
the  deck  covered  with  blood ;  and  the  captain  and  sailors 
belonging  to  the  slaver  sitting  side  by  side,  bound  in  irons. 
There  had  been  a  dreadful  struggle,  but  victory  was  on  the  side 


CHAP.    III. — SLAVERY    AND    THE    SLAVE    TRADE.  69 

of  mercy.  The  cargo  of  Africans  thus  captured  by  British 
valour  were  brought  to  the  island  of  Trinidad  for  emancipation. 
The  adults  were  employed  as  free  labourers ;  and  the  little 
people  were  placed  under  the  care  of  such  persons  as  were 
willing  to  engage  with  the  Government  by  indenture,  to  train 
them  up  in  habits  of  industry,  and  in  religious  knowledge ;  and 
under  this  arrangement  little  Benomc  came  into  the  family  of 
the  writer  in  the  manner  already  mentioned. 

This  little  Negro  girl  lived  with  us  for  nine  years,  and  grew 
up  to  be  a  fine,  intelligent  young  woman.  Having  been  duly 
instructed  in  the  knowledge  of  God,  and  of  His  Son  Jesus 
Christ,  and  having  given  evidence  of  a  work  of  grace  upon  her 
heart,  she  was  solemnly  baptized  into  the  Christian  faith,  and 
voluntarily  united  herself  in  church  fellowship  with  the  people 
of  God.  She  soon  learned  to  read  the  Scriptures  with  con- 
siderable fluency,  and  became  a  valuable,  industrious,  and 
attached  domestic  servant.  Her  temper  was  naturally  violent ; 
but  she  struggled  against  it  in  the  strength  of  the  Lord,  and 
the  grace  of  God  was  triumphant.  On  our  first  removal  from 
Trinidad,  feeling  reluctant  to  take  Benomc  away  from  the  few 
friends  she  had,  whom  she  called  her  "  ship  sisters,"  from  their 
having  been  brought  from  Africa  in  the  same  slaver,  and  her 
"class  sisters,"  united  with  her  in  church  fellowship,  we 
obtained  for  her  a  comfortable  situation,  and  left  her  behind; 
but,  a  few  weeks  afterwards,  she  actually  engaged  a  passage  in 
a  vessel  bound  for  Grenada,  whefi'e  we  then  resided,  and,  to  our 
surprise,  presented  herself  one  morning  at  the  door  of  the 
Mission  house,  declaring  that  she  could  not  live  without  us. 
After  this  she  continued  with  us  till  our  departure  for  England, 
when  she  manifested  the  most  genuine  and  heartfelt  grief  at 
our  separation  from  her. 

Thirteen  years  afterwards,  we  received  a  letter  from  this 
liberated  African  girl,  a  brief  extract  from  which  may  serve  to 
show  the  strength  of  her  affection,  and  the  injustice  of  the 
disparaging  assertions  which  have  often  been  made  with 
jeference  to  the  Negro  race  : — "  I  have  been  so  overjoyed  from 
hearing  of  you,  that  I  actually  cannot  keep  my  eyes  from  tears. 
Ton  are  constantly  in  my  thoughts,  and  I  am  often  speaking  of 


70  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

your  kindness  to  me.  Putting  aside  my  complexion,  you 
treated  me  as  your  child,  and  brought  me  up  in  the  fear  and 
love  of  God;  and  in  the  same  path  I  have  endeavoured  to 
walk,  since  your  departure.  I  am  now  married  to  a  respect- 
able and  pious  young  man,  one  of  my  own  country  people,  and 
the  precentor  at  the  chapel.  We  have  three  children,  Jane, 
William,  and  Samuel.  The  first  and  second  are  named  after 
my  dear  master  and  mistress.  We  live  in  our  own  house,  and 
have  a  small  portion  of  land ;  for  which  we  feel  indebted  to 
your  kindness,  as  we  purchased  them  with  the  money  I  received 
from  you.  O  how  I  wish  you  were  near  to  me  !  Still  remem- 
ber me  at  your  family  altar.  If  you  should  receive  this  letter, 
I  trust  I  may  be  spared  to  hear  from  you  again.  My  endea- 
vour is  to  live  to  the  glory  of  God ;  and  I  trust,  if  we  never 
meet  here  on  earth  again,  we  may  meet  in  heaven,  to  part  no 
more  for  ever.  This  is  the  prayer,  dear  master  and  mistress,  of 
your  true  and  loving  servant."  Such  is  a  specimen  of  the 
gratitude,  atfection,  and  piety,  which  we  have  found  to  charac- 
terize hundreds  of  poor  Africans,  who  have  been  rescued  from 
the  horrors  of  slavery  by  British  liberality;  and  who  have 
also  been  brought  into  "  the  glorious  liberty  of  the  children  of 
God,"  through  the  instrumentality  of  Christian  Missions. 


CHAPTER  lY. 

EUROPEAN  AND  AMERICAN  SETTLEMENTS. 

Eakly  Discoveries — Portuguese — Dutch — French — English — Travellers — 
Mungo  Park — Settlements — St.  Paul  de  Loando — Fernando  Po — 
Baptist  Missions — Christianbui'g — Basle  Missionary  Society — EIinina> 
— Senegal — Goree — Liberia — Methodist  Episcopal  Church. 

Prom  a  very  early  period,  Northern  Africa  has  figured  on  the 
page  of  history ;  the  Mediterranean,  by  which  it  is  bounded, 
being  the  Great  Sea  of  the  ancients,  by  means  of  which  a  con- 


CHAP.   IV. — EUROPEAN    AND    AMERICAN    SETTLEMENTS.     71 

slant  intercourse  was  kept  up  between  the  flourishing  states  of 
Greece,  Eome,  Egypt,  and  Carthage.  Herodotus,  the  earliest 
and  the  best  of  the  Greek  historians,  gives  an  interesting  account 
of  the  principal  cities  and  states  of  Northern  Africa,  which 
appear  in  his  time  to  have  advanced  to  a  pleasing  point  of  civi- 
lization. But  this  was  not  the  case  with  Western  Africa. 
Between  the  two  countries  lies  the  Great  Sahara,  a  vast  sandy 
desert,  which  can  only  be  passed  by  several  weeks  of  toilsome 
travelling,  with  caravans  of  patient  camels,  scarcely  a  blade  of 
grass  or  a  drop  of  water  being  found  for  days  together.  This 
circumstance  may  serve  to  explain  the  reason  wliy  Western 
Africa  derived  so  little  benefit  from  that  portion  of  the  conti- 
nent so  highly  favoured  and  celebrated  in  times  of  old. 

The  earliest  European  discoveries  on  the  AVestern  coast  of 
Africa  were  made  by  the  Portuguese  navigators,  Fernandez  and 
Lancelot ;  the  first  of  whom  ascended  the  river  Senegal  in  the 
year  144; 7,  and  explored  the  surrounding  country  to  a  consider- 
able extent.  From  this  place,  a  Jalloif  Prince,  named  Bemoy, 
was  taken  to  Lisbon,  where  he  was  received  with  much  enthu- 
siasm, both  by  the  King  and  the  people.  He  was  partially 
instructed  in  the  Christian  religion,  and  baptized  with  solemn 
ceremony ;  but,  on  the  voyage  back  to  his  own  country,  some 
altercation  took  place  between  Bemoy  and  the  commander  of 
the  ship  in  which  he  sailed,  when  the  latter  stabbed  the  Negro 
Prince  on  board  his  vessel.  It  is  doubtful  whether  the  Portu- 
guese formed  any  permanent  settlement  on  the  Senegal  at  this 
early  period  ;  but,  in  the  year  1471,  we  find  they  had  pushed 
their  discoveries  as  far  as  the  Gold  Coast,  where  they  built 
Elmina,  and  made  it  their  capital  in  those  parts.  They  also 
took  formal  possession  of  several  other  places  ;  the  principal  of 
which  was  Congo,  where  they  formed  a  settlement,  and  intro- 
duced Eoman  Catholic  Missionaries,  with  a  view  to  convert  the 
natives  to  their  form  of  Christianity.  But,  although  it  is  stated 
that  one  old  Friar  baptized  700,000  Africans,  and  another 
300,000,  the  new  religion  seems  to  have  made  but  little  im- 
pression upon  the  people  generally.  We  do  not  know  at  what 
period  the  Portuguese  Missionaries  were  expelled,  or  abandoned 
their  work  at  the  Congo ;  but  we  can  trace  their  connexion  with 


72  PART   I. — WESTERN   AFRICA. 

tlie  country  for  upwards  of  two  hundred  years.  During  this 
long-  period,  a  profession  of  Christianity  existed  ;  but  it  was  in  a 
form  little  better  than  heathenism  itself ;  and  for  many  years 
past  not  a  vestige  of  the  "  holy  Catholic  faith  "  has  been  found 
on  the  banks  of  the  Zaire,  or  in  any  part  of  the  Coast  of 
Guinea. 

In  the  course  of  time,  the  Portuguese  were  superseded,  in  a 
great  measure,  by  the  Dutch ;  who,  having  become  a  powerful 
maritime  people,  took  possession  of  Elmina,  and  other  import- 
ant places  on  the  Western  Coast  of  Africa.  But  the  Dutch  did 
not  long  continue  masters  of  the  sea,  or  the  sole  possessors  of 
settlements  in  this  part  of  the  world.  They  soon  found  powerful 
rivals  in  the  English  and  the  French,  who  now  began  to  be 
more  than  ever  alive  to  the  profitable  nature  of  the  African 
trade  in  slaves,  gold,  and  ivory.  The  most  flattering  and 
extravagant  accounts  reached  Europe  of  the  extent  of  the  gold 
trade  carried  on  in  the  interior,  and  a  spirit  of  mercantile  enter- 
prise was  awakened,  such  as  had  never  been  known  before. 
There  was  a  general  desire  to  penetrate  at  once  to  the  source  of 
the  amazing  wealth  which  was  said  to  exist ;  and,  if  possible,  to 
get  access  to  the  gold  mines,  which  were  supposed  to  be  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Timbuctoo,  and  the  mysterious  Niger. 

In  the  year  1618,  a  Company  was  formed  in  England,  for  the 
purpose  of  exploring  the  River  Gambia,  with  a  view  to  the 
objects  we  have  just  named.  They  sent  out  the  same  year 
Eichard  Thompson,  a  person  of  considerable  spirit  and  enter- 
prise. He  was  put  in  charge  of  a  vessel  called  the  '*  Catherine," 
of  a  hundred  and  twenty  tons'  burden,  with  a  cargo  of  mer- 
chandise, of  the  value  of  JB2,000,  that  he  might  trade  with  the 
natives  in  the  course  of  his  expedition.  In  the  month  of 
December  he  entered  the  river,  and  proceeded,  with  little  diffi- 
culty, as  far  as  Kassan,  a  considerable  native  town,  about  two 
hundred  and  fifty  miles  from  the  sea.  Here  he  left  a  party  in 
charge  of  his  ship,  and  pushed  on,  with  a  few  men,  in  open 
boats,  to  explore  the  Upper  Gambia.  The  Portuguese,  who 
were  still  numerous  in  this  part  of  Africa,  being  filled  with  rage 
and  jealousy  at  the  arrival  of  the  British  strangers,  fell  upon 
Thompson's  men,  in  his  absence,  and  massacred  a  considerable 


CHAP.    lY. — EUROPEAN    AND    AMERICAN    SETTLEMENTS.     73 

number  of  tliem.  Although  unable,  Avith  his  remaining  force, 
to  avenge  this  outrage,  our  adventurer  maintained  his  courage, 
and  sent  home  a  flattering  account  of  his  prospects.  The  Com- 
pany was  induced,  by  his  representations,  to  dispatch  another 
vessel  to  join  him  ;  but  unfortunately  she  arrived  at  the  most 
unhealthy  season  of  the  year,  and  lost  most  of  her  men  by  fever, 
soon  after  she  entered  the  river.  Still  the  Company  was  not 
discouraged  by  this  disaster ;  but  immediately  fitted  out  a  third 
and  larger  expedition,  consisting  of  two  vessels,  the  "  Sion,"  of 
two  hundred  tons,  and  the  "  St.  John,"  of  fifty.  The  command 
of  the  whole  was  given  to  Richard  Jobson,  who  engaged  in  the 
enterprise  with  becoming  zeal  and  earnestness.  We  are  indebted 
to  this  gentleman  for  the  earliest  and  the  best  accounts  of  the 
river  districts  of  Western  Africa. 

Jobson  and  his  party  entered  the  Gambia  in  November,  1620  ; 
but,  to  their  sm-prise  and  dismay,  they  soon  lieard  that  Thomp- 
son had  perished  by  the  hands  of  his  own  men.  As  if  the  dan- 
gers arising  from  the  character  of  the  climate,  the  hostility  of 
the  natives,  and  the  enmity  of  the  Portuguese  was  not  sufficient, 
these  hardened  wretches  mutinied  against  their  commander,  and 
put  him  to  death,  for  what  cause  does  not  appear ;  and  thus  fell 
the  first  of  many  victims  in  the  cause  of  African  discovery. 
The  enterprising  Jobson,  having  recovered  in  some  measure  from 
the  shock  occasioned  by  the  melancholy  fate  of  his  predecessor, 
proceeded  to  Kassan.  Most  of  the  Portuguese  had  fled  before 
his  arrival ;  and  the  few  who  remained  professed  entire  ignorance 
and  great  horror  at  the  massacre  of  Thompson,  already  noticed. 
The  commander,  however,  gave  little  credit  to  their  professions; 
for  he  had  reason  to  believe  that  they  were  already  secretly 
endeavouring  to  stir  up  the  natives  against  him.  With  some 
difficulty,  Jobson  procured  a  pilot,  and  pursued  his  course  up 
the  river  as  far  as  the  Palls  of  Baraconda ;  but  above  this 
point  he  found  the  navigation,  even  with  boats,  almost  imprac- 
ticable, at  this  season  of  the  year.  In  addition  to  the  impedi- 
ment occasioned  by  the  strong  downward  current  of  the  stream, 
the  channel  was  found  to  be  frequently  interrupted  by  hidden 
rocks  and  sand-banks.  It  was  sometimes  necessary  to  drag  the 
boats  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  for  a  mile  or  two,  to  avoid 


74  PAET  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

the  shoals  and  the  rapids,  and  then  to  launch  them  again  in 
deep  water.  Notwithstanding  every  difficulty,  the  expedition 
pushed  on  to  Tenda,  where  it  arrived  in  January,  1621.  Here 
they  met  with  Buckar  Sano,  the  chief  native  merchant  on  the 
Gambia,  who  introduced  them  to  the  King.  His  sable  Majesty 
was  highly  pleased  with  the  presents  which  were  spread  before 
him,  and  allowed  the  strangers  to  remain  in  his  country,  to 
trade  with  his  people,  as  long  as  they  pleased.  They  might 
have  carried  on  their  traffic  on  a  large  and  profitable  scale,  had 
they  not  neglected  to  take  with  them  a  sufficient  supply  of  salt, 
an  article  always  in  great  demand  in  the  interior  of  Africa.* 

As  the  dry  season  advanced,  the  stream  became  more  and 
more  shallow,  so  that  our  voyager  found  it  impossible  to  proceed 
any  further  up  the  river.  He  returned  with  the  full  intention 
of  renewing  his  attempt  to  explore  the  country  when  the  season 
should  be  more  favourable.  His  purpose  was  never  accom- 
plished, however;  for  both  he  and  the  Company  with  which  he 
was  connected  became  involved  in  quarrels  with  the  Garpbia 
merchants,  which  resulted  in  the  breaking  up  of  the  expedition, 
and  the  cause  of  African  discovery  again  languished. 

The  next  attempt  to  explore  the  interior  of  Africa  by  way  of  the 
Gambia  was  made  in  the  year  1723,  when  the  African  Company 
was  organized  under  the  directorship  of  the  Duke  of  Chandos 
and  other  gentlemen  of  rank  and  influence.  Captain  Sibbs  was 
the  person  intrusted  with  the  command  of  this  expedition ;  and 
being  fui'nished  with  the  usual  means  of  navigating  the  river,  on 
the  7th  of  October  in  the  same  year,  he  arrived  at  James' 
Island,  situated  about  thirty  miles  from  the  sea,  on  which  had 
been  previously  formed  a  small  English  settlement.  On  finding 
that  Mr.  Willy,  the  Governor,  was  from  home,  on  a  voyage  up 

*  The  natives  of  Africa  will  eat  salt  \Yitli  as  great  a  relish  as  children  in 
England  wiU  eat  sugar  ;  and  it  is  usual  for  Negroes  of  some  respectability 
to  cany  pieces  of  rock-salt  in  leathern  pouches  suspended  from  the  neck,  to 
be  constantly  at  hand  when  required.  When  two  persons  meet,  who  are 
thus  provided  with  the  precious  article,  they  will  offer  each  other  their  piece 
of  salt  to  suck,  whilst  they  hold  a  conversation  ;  just  in  the  same  way  that 
persons  in  civilized  countries  will  produce  the  box,  and  offer  each  other  a 
pinch  of  snuff  or  a  piece  of  tobacco.  Such  is  the  etiquette  of  Westera 
Afnca. 


CHAP.    IV. — EUROPEAN   AND    AMERICAN    SETTLEMENTS.     75 

the  river,  Sibbs  wrote  to  liiin ;  but,  before  any  arrangements^ 
could  be  made,  intelligence  was  received  of  tbe  Governor's  death, 
and  his  body  was  brought  down  for  interment  in  the  fort.  With 
a  crew  of  eighteen  white  men  and  thirty  Negroes,  the  Captain 
began  to  ascend  the  river.  The  natives  were  everywhere  friendly ; 
but  he  experienced  the  same  difficulties  in  navigating  the 
stream  as  his  predecessors.  On  the  22nd  of  Pebniary  he  found 
himself  sixty  miles  above  the  Falls  of  Baraconda ;  and,  the  season 
being  unfavourable,  he  was  unable  to  proceed  to  Tenda,  the 
point  which  Jobson  had  reached  before  him.  Disappointed 
with  the  general  appearance  of  the  country,  and  fully  convinced 
that  the  Company  was  proceeding  in  error  in  their  attempts  to 
find  the  far-famed  land  of  gold,  Captain  Sibbs  abandoned  the 
undertaking ;  and  no  other  attempt  was  made  to  explore  this  part 
of  the  African  continent  for  several  years. 

Whilst  the  English  were  thus  engaged  in  exploring  the 
Gambia,  the  Trench  had  been  directing  their  attention  to  the  Se- 
negal, a  similar  river,  to  the  north ;  which  was,  according  to  their 
geographers,  one  of  the  mouths  of  the  Niger,  and  the  stream 
which  was  to  lead  them  to  Timbuctoo  and  the  regions  of  gold. 
The  respective  expeditions  of  the  French  resulted  in  the  same  dis- 
appointment which  had  attended  the  eflbrts  of  the  English,  and 
were,  consequently,  productive  of  no  permanent  good. 

After  slumbering  again  for  nearly  a  century,  the  cause  of 
African  discovery  was  once  more  revived  by  the  organization  of 
the  *'  African  Association."  Lord  Kawden,  Sir  Joseph  Banks, 
the  Bishop  of  Landaif,  Mr.  Beaufoy,  and  Mr.  Stewart,  were- 
nominated  managers  of  this  institution ;  the  object  of  which  was 
to  explore  the  interior  of  Africa,  not  by  means  of  large  maritime 
expeditions,  but  by  equipping  and  sending  forth  individual 
travellers.  With  this  view  they  raised  subscriptions,  and  looked 
out  for  proper  persons  to  employ  in  their  service;  and  it  is 
a  remarkable  fact  that,  notwithstanding  the  hazardous  nature  of 
the  undertaking,  a  larger  number  of  candidates  presented  them- 
selves than  was  required,  although  the  Association  only  offered 
to  pay  their  travelling  expenses. 

A  number  of  courageous  and  intrepid  travellers  now  went 
forth  in  rapid  succession,  to  explore  the  interior  of  Africa  ia 


76  PART   I. — WESTERN   AFRICA. 

various  directions.  We  may  mention  the  names  of  Ledyard,  Lucas, 
Houghton,  Clapperton,  Park,  the  brothers  Lander,  Horneman, 
^Nicholls,  Peddie,  Campbell,  Gray,  Laing,  Warrington,  Laird, 
Oldfield,  Eitchie,  and  Lyon.  Several  of  these  daring  adventurers 
fell  a  sacrifice  to  the  climate  before  they  had  been  long  in  Africa ; 
whilst  others  were  spared  to  return  to  their  native  land,  and  to 
favour  the  public  with  interesting  accounts  of  their  travels. 

Perhaps  the  most  favoured  and  successful  of  these  early 
African  travellers  was  the  celebrated  Mungo  Park ;  and  having 
been  personally  acquainted  with  several  places  which  he  visited 
on  the  banks  of  the  Gambia,  the  writer  has  pleasure  in  bearing 
his  testimony  to  the  general  accuracy  and  truthfulness  of  the 
descriptions  given  by  him,  in  his  interesting  volumes,  of  the 
-country  through  which  he  passed,  and  of  the  manners  and  habits 
•of  the  respective  native  tribes  with  which  he  came  in  contact. 
This  circumstance  must  be  our  apology  for  a  brief  notice  of  this 
distinguished  and  lamented  individual. 

On  hearing  of  the  death  of  Major  Houghton,  the  African 
Association  accepted  of  the  services  of  Mr.  Mungo  Park,  a 
native  of  Scotland,  educated  for  the  medical  profession,  and  just 
returned  from  a  voyage  to  India.  He  sailed  from  Portsmouth 
on  the  22nd  of  May,  1795,  for  the  Gambia  ;  up  which  river  he 
proceeded  to  Pisania.*     From  this  point  he  pushed  forward 

*  It  was  oa  this  journey  that  Park  met  with  the  following  affecting 
incident,  so  truly  characteristic  of  Negro  hospitality.  Having  reached  au 
African  village  late  in  the  evening  of  a  stormy  day,  weary  and  hungry,  he 
sat  down  under  a  tree.  Au  old  woman,  returning  from  the  labours  of  the 
(field,  cast  an  eye  of  compassion  on  the  lonely  stranger,  and  desired  him  to 
follow  her.  She  led  him  to  her  hut,  procured  a  fine  fish,  and  cooked  it  for 
■liis  supper,  and  spread  a  mat  on  the  floor,  on  which  he  might  recline  his 
weary  head  for  the  night.  Her  maideus  were  busily  engaged  spinning 
cotton  ;  and,  as  usual,  they  accompanied  their  labour  with  a  song,  which  must 
have  been  composed  impromptu  for  the  occasion,  as  the  traveller  observed 
ithat  it  had  reference  to  himself.     It  said,  in  strains  of  affecting  simplicity, — 

"  The  winds  blew,  and  the  rain  fell : 

The  poor  white  man,  faint  and  weary. 
Came  and  sat  under  our  tree. 

He  has  no  mother  to  bring  him  milk, 
Nor  wife  to  grind  his  corn. 


CHAP.    IV. — EUEOPEAN   ASD    AMEEICAX    SETTLEMENTS.    7T 

into  the  interior ;  and,  after  passing  through  unparalleled  diffi- 
culties and  suiferings,  during  the  two  years  and  a  half  occupied 
by  his  travels,  he  returned  to  England  in  December,  1797  ;  and 
surprised  and  delighted  the  people  with  a  thrilling  narrative  of 
his  journey,  and  his  discovery  of  the  source  and  character  of  the 
mighty  Niger.  About  seven  years  afterwards,  Mr.  Park  again 
engaged  in  African  exploration.  This  time  he  went  out  at  the 
head  of  a  large  expedition,  supported  by  Government,  which 
left  Portsmouth  on  the  30th  of  January,  1805.  The  traveller 
pursued  the  same  route  as  before,  touching  at  Goree  on  his  way 
to  the  Gambia.  Before  the  expedition  had  penetrated  far  into 
the  interior,  it  Avas  overtaken  by  the  rainy  season  ;  and  most  of 
the  men,  as  well  as  the  animals,  perished  in  the  wilderness. 
Park  pushed  on,  however,  through  every  difficulty ;  and,  at 
length,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Anderson,  his  brother-in-law,  and 
two  or  three  others  who  still  survived,  he  reached  the  banks  of 
the  Niger.  With  amazing  labour  they  built  a  small  vessel,  and 
launched  it  on  the  mighty  river,  hoping  to  reach  the  Atlantic,, 
and  thus  prove  the  truth  of  the  theory  which  Park  had  espoused. 
All  went  well  till  they  came  to  a  place  called  Eoussa,  where 
they  were  attacked  by  a  party  of  natives,  and  the  remnant  of 
the  expedition  perished ;  with  the  exception  of  a  Negro,  who 
by  some  means  escaped,  and  who,  a  long  time  afterwards, 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  coast  with  the  sad  tidings  of  the 
disaster. 

Having  thus  briefly  traced  the  progress  of  the  earliest 
attempts  which  were  made  to  explore  the^  interior  of  Western 
Africa,  Ave  would  now  direct  the  attention  of  the  reader  to  the 
permanent  settlements  which  have  been  formed  by  European 
and  other  nations  on  various  parts  of  the  coast.  We  are  the 
more  anxious  to  do  this,  because  most  of  these  establishments 
have  been  connected  with  philanthropic  and  praiseworthy  efforts 
to  civilize  and  evangelize  the  long  oppressed  and  neglected 
inhabitants  of  the  African  continent. 

Many  changes  have  taken  place  since  the  Western  Coast  of 

Chorus.  Let  us  pity  the  poor  white  man  : 

No  mother  has  he  to  bring  him  milk. 
Nor  wife  to  airincl  his  corn." 


78  PAET   I. WESTERN   AFETCA. 

Afiica  was  first  visited  by  the  vessels  of  different  European 
nations.  Some  of  those  powers,  which  were  once  so  potent, 
have,  by  degrees,  dwindled  down  to  a  mere  nominal  existence ; 
whilst  others  have  risen  to  a  position  of  proud  pre-eminence. 
The  only  colonial  possessions  with  which  we  are  acquainted,  are 
those  of  the  Portuguese,  the  Spaniards,  the  Danes,  the  Dutcli, 
the  French,  the  Americans,  and  the  English. 

The  Portuguese  settlements  are  chiefly  confined  to  Benguela, 
Angola,  and  Congo;  the  capital  of  their  possessions  in  these 
parts  being  St.  Paul  de  Loando.  But  these  places  being  situ- 
ated on  that  part  of  the  continent  which  may  properly  be  deno- 
minated the  South-\Yestern  Coast  of  Africa,  they  scarcely  belong 
to  the  portion  of  country  now  under  consideration.  Nothing  is 
being  done,  so  far  as  we  know,  in  connexion  with  these  colonies, 
for  the  civilization  of  the  native  tribes  in  their  vicinity ;  the 
attention  of  the  colonists  being  confined  almost  exclusively  to 
mercantile  pursuits.  Many  private  establishments,  belonging 
to  individual  Portuguese  merchants,  may  be  found  on  other 
parts  of  the  coast ;  but  these  are  generally  formed  on  lands 
belonging  to  the  native  Chiefs,  and  exist  for  the  avowed  pur- 
pose of  carrying  on,  by  stealth,  the  infamous  slave  trade.  This 
TDcing  the  case,  they  cannot  be  acknowledged  and  protected  by 
the  Portuguese  Government,  with  whom  the  English  have 
formed  a  compact,  disallowing  the  traffic  in  human  beings. 

The  Spanish  possessions  in  Western  Africa  are  limited  to 
Fernando  Po,  a  small  island  in  the  Gulf  of  Guinea,  about  ten 
miles  from  the  main  land,  inlat.  3"*  6'  north,  and  long.  7°  30'  east. 
The  island  is  about  thirty  miles  long,  and  twenty  broad  ;  and, 
rising  to  a  considerable  elevation  in  the  centre,  it  is  highly 
esteem-ed  for  the  comparative  salubrity  of  its  climate.  It  has  a 
native  population  of  its  own,  of  a  wild  and  barbarous  character, 
called  Boobees,  besides  a  number  of  Negroes  belonging  to 
different  tribes  on  the  continent,  who  have  been  drawn  thither 
by  the  profitable  employment  afforded  by  the  ships  which  fre- 
quently put  in  to  the  harbour.  The  principal  town  was  formerly 
called  Clarence,  but  now  is  styled  Santa  Isabel,  and  is  situated  on 
the  east  side  of  the  island.  During  a  long  course  of  years, 
Fernando  Po  was  held  by  the  English,  under  a  special  agree- 


CHAP.    IV. — EUEOPEA^^   AND    AMEBIC  AX    SETTLEMENTS.      79 

ment  with  the  Government  of  Spain ;  but,  a  few  years  ago,  this 
arrangement  terminated,  when  the  Spaniards  resumed  possession 
of  it,  and  proceeded  to  form  a  permanent  settlement.* 

Whilst  Pernando  Po  was  in  the  possession  of  the  English, 
the  Baptist  Missionary  Society  commenced  a  Mission  in  the 
island,  for  the  benefit  of  the  native  population  of  all  classes. 
Having  surmounted  most  of  the  difficulties  incident  to  the  for- 
mation of  a  new  station  among  a  heathen  people,  the  Mission- 
aries were  soon  favoured  with  a  pleasing  measure  of  success. 
A  small  Christian  church  was  organized,  of  the  few  natives  who 
had  been  hopefully  converted  to  God,  and  every  thing  wore  a 
promising  aspect,  when  the  establishment  was  entirely  broken 
up  by  the  stringent  and  persecuting  measures  adopted  by  the 
Spanish  Government,  on  resuming  possession  of  the  place. 
The  Governor  required  the  whole  of  the  population,  without 
exception,  to  conform  to  the  Eoman  Catholic  religion :  and 
every  thing  like  toleration  was  totally  ignored.     The  Mission- 

*  The  following  item  of  intelligence,  recently  received  from  Fernando 
Po,  may  serve  to  illustrate  the  state  of  society  in  that  place,  and  the  feelings 
which  exist  between  the  natives  and  the  colonists  : — "  On  Sunday,  the  1st 
of  September,  1861,  Mr.  Thomas  B.  Lee,  formerly  Secretary  to  the  British 
Consul  at  Fernando  Po,  and  lately  in  the  employ  of  Mr.  Lynslager,  the 
principal  merchant  of  that  island,  went  out  for  a  walk  in  the  direction  of  the 
interior,  starting  from  Santa  Isabel,  the  capital.  He  seems  to  have  lost  his 
way,  and  to  have  fallen  in  with  some  of  the  aborigines  of  the  place.  These 
entertain  hostile  feelings  towards  the  Spaniards,  to  whom  the  island  belongs  ; 
and  probably  mistaking  Mr.  Lee  for  one  of  the  Spanish  officials,  they  led 
him  to  a  bye-path,  and  there  seized  him,  and  made  him  take  off  his  clothes. 
Mr.  Lee  implored  them  to  spare  his  life,  promising  them  a  handsome  reward 
if  they  would  conduct  him  safely  to  the  town.  But  the  ruffians  had  resolved 
to  sacrifice  to  one  of  their  gods,  named  Oumorh,  some  Spaniard,  as  they 
believed  that  their  deities  refused  to  send  rain  on  account  of  the  presence  of 
these  Europeans.  They  bound  Mr.  Lee,  and  murdered  him  in  the  most 
horrible  manner.  His  remains,  frightfully  disfigured,  were  discovered  a  few 
days  afterwards,  iu  a  lonely  spot  by  the  sea-side,  between  three  stones,  his 
clothes  being  found  near  the  same  place.  On  the  30th  of  September,  the 
Chiefs  of  the  principal  Boobee  towns  were  seut  for  to  Santa  Isabel,  and 
brought  the  supposed  murderer  with  them ;  who,  on  being  questioned,  on 
his  oath,  as  to  whether  he  was  guilty  or  not,  and  replying  in  the  negative, 
was  allowed  to  go  free  by  the  Spanish  authorities." — "  West  African  Herald," 
October  25th,  1861. 


80  PART   I. — TVESTERl^  AFRICA. 

aries  were  therefore  obliged  to  remove  to  the  continent,  with 
such  of  their  people  as  were  able  to  accompany  them  ;  where, 
after  a  considerable  period  of  trial  and  suffering,  from  the 
unhealthiness  of  the  climate  and  other  difficulties,  they  were 
again  blessed  with  fruit  to  their  labours.  The  loss  to  the 
Society,  both  temporal  and  spiritual,  occasioned  by  these  un- 
toward circumstances,  was  very  serious ;  and  it  was  not  till 
several  years  afterwards,  when  the  British  Government  had 
interfered,  that  some  compensation  was  awarded  by  the  Spaniards 
for  the  buildings  and  other  property,  which  were  necessarily 
sacrificed,  on  the  breaking  up  of  the  Mission. 

The  Danes  established  themselves  at  an  early  period  in 
Western  Africa ;  and  they  still  possess  several  small  settlements 
on  the  coast  of  Guinea.  The  principal  of  these  is  Christian- 
burg,  or  Danish  Akra ;  situated  in  lat.  37°  5'  north,  and  long. 
15°  5'  east,  close  to  the  sea  shore.  Besides  the  castle  or  for- 
tress in  which  the  Governor  and  principal  officials  reside,  the 
town  does  not  contain  many  houses  of  consequence.  There  are 
a  number  of  Negro  huts,  however,  and  a  considerable  mixed 
population. 

In  the  year  1828,  encouraged  by  the  Danish  Government, 
the  Basle  Missionary  Society  sent  out  five  Missionaries  to 
Christianburg ;  but  they  soon  experienced  the  debilitating 
and  fatal  influence  of  the  climate.  Mr.  Wulf  died  shortly  after 
his  arrival ;  Mr.  Hegele,  suffering  from  a  dangerous  illness, 
returned  to  Germany,  and  Mr.  Sessing  accompanied  him  y 
whilst  Mr.  Handt,  having  had  repeated  attacks  of  fever,  was  a 
wreck  both  in  body  and  mind.  Mr.  Kipling  alone  remained 
effective,  and  he  accepted  the  office  of  Colonial  Chaplain ;  so  that 
the  Mission  to  the  natives  was  for  a  time  virtually  relinquished. 
In  1832,  Mr.  Sessing  returned  to  Christianburg,  accompanied 
by  three  new  Missionaries,  the  whole  of  whom  were  called  away 
by  death,  soon  after  they  landed  on  the  shores  of  Africa.  Mr. 
Kipling  and  Mr.  Sessing  had  soon  afterwards  to  leave  for 
Europe,  with  their  health  completely  shattered ;  and  the  colony 
was  once  more  left  without  a  Christian  teacher. 

When  the  Basle  Missionaiy  Society  re-commenced  its  labours 
on  the  coast  of  Africa,  a  new   station  was  formed,  at  a  place 


CHAP.    IV. — EUEOPEAN   AND    AMERICAN    SETTLEMENTS.     SI 

called  Akropong,  a  few  miles  to  tlie  north-east  of  Akra ;  but  no 
improvement  in  the  climate  seems  to  have  been  experienced. 
In  1835,  we  find  Mr.  Eus  left  a  solitary  labourer  at  this  place ; 
the  two  Missionaries  who  had  gone  out  with  him — one  of  whom 
was  a  medical  man — having-  both  died  shortly  after  their  arrival 
in  the  country.  Several  other  Missionaries  followed  in  rapid 
succession,  none  of  whom  survived  long  enough  to  allow  of 
their  engaging  in  active  labour.  In  1843,  a  small  colony  of 
twenty-four  Christian  Negroes  were  brought  from  Jamaica  by 
Mr.  Eus,  and  his  colleague,  Mr.  Wildman,  with  a  view  to  aid 
in  the  work  of  evangelization,  and  to  give  the  natives  a  speci- 
men of  living  Christianity,  in  the  family,  the  workshop,  and  the 
field.  These  colonists  soon  gave  the  Missionaries  more  anxiety 
than  the  natives,  being  evidently  dissatisfied  with  their  lot,  and 
desirous  of  returning  to  the  West  Indies.  Notwithstanding  the 
fearful  mortality  among  their  agents,  and  other  difficulties,  the 
Society  still  persevered  in  their  labours ;  and  it  would  appear 
that  a  measure  of  success  has  crowned  their  endeavours,  as  they 
have  now  three  principal  stations  on  the  Gold  Coast,  namely, 
Christianburg,  Akropong,  and  Ussu. 

The  Dutch  possessions  in  \Vestern  Africa,  once  so  numerous 
and  influential,  are  now  limited  to  Elmina,  or  Dutch  Akra,  in 
latitude  5°  10'  north,  and  longitude  2°  80'  west.  This  place  was 
built  by  the  Portuguese  in  14  81,  and  taken  from  them  by  the  Dutch 
in  1637,  and  afterwards  secured  to  them  by  treaty.  Elmina 
stands  on  a  peninsula,  formed  by  a  small  river,  which  runs  for 
some  distance  almost  parallel  with  the  sea.  The  castle  is  a  respect- 
able edifice,  and  has  two  approaches  ;  one  from  the  town,  where  it 
is  strengthened  by  a  double  ditch,  over  which  are  draw-bridges ; 
the  other  adjoining  the  river,  where  there  is  a  small  gate,  at  an  ele- 
vation of  twelve  feet, to  which  an  ascent  is  formed  by  a  steep  ladder. 
A  fort  is  also  built  on  an  adjoining  eminence ;  so  that  the  place  is 
well  defended  against  an  enemy.  In  1781,  it  repulsed  a  respect- 
able English  force  ;  but  this  was  attributed  to  a  want  of  concert 
between  the  British  commanders.  The  town  is  large,  but  dirty 
and  unwholesome ;  and  the  river,  though  small,  is  navigable  for 
vessels  of  one  hundred  tons'  burden  at  high  water.  The  population 
is  estimated  at  15,000,  and  consists  of  merchants,  artizans,Vad 

G 


83  PAPvT    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

fisliermen ;  raany  of  whom  are  respectable  persons  of  colour,  and 
possessed  of  considerable  wealth .  The  standard  of  morality  at 
Elmina,  as  at  most  of  the  settlements  on  the  Western  Coast  of 
Africa,  is  said  to  be  very  low ;  and  we  are  not  aware  of  any 
efforts  made  in  connexion  with  this  colony  for  the  evangelization 
of  the  natives. 

The  French  have  several  small  settlements  in  Western  Africa, 
the  principal  of  which  are  situated  on  the  river  Senegal.  On  a 
small  island,  called  St.  Louis,  in  latitude  16<*  north,  and  longi- 
tude 16°  east,  about  thirty  miles  from  the  sea,  stands  the  capital 
of  their  possessions.  The  town  consists  of  a  fort,  a  hospital,  a 
Boman  Catholic  church,  and  about  thirty  dwelling  houses,  built 
of  brick,  with  a  large  number  of  Negro  huts.  The  population 
is  estimated  at  10,000,  and  the  principal  trade  is  in  gold,  ivory, 
gum,  and  bees'-wax.  Although  convenient  for  traffic  with  the 
native  tribes  of  the  interior,  the  settlement  is  rendered  difficult 
of  access  by  a  shifting  bar  of  sand  at  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
which  requires  the  greatest  care  and  skill  on  the  part  of  the 
pilot  in  charge  of  the  vessel  bound  for  St.  Louis.  For  the 
distance  of  seventy-five  miles,  the  river  Senegal  is  separated 
from  the  sea,  with  which  it  runs  nearly  parallel,  only  by  a  ridge 
of  sand,  when  it  takes  a  sudden  turn  towards  the  interior  of 
the  country.  This,  like  most  of  the  other  settlements  on  the 
coast,  has  passed  through  various  vicissitudes.  In  1758,  it  was 
taken  by  the  English ;  and,  although  it  was  confirmed  to  them 
by  the  treaty  of  peace  in  1763,  it  was  restored  to  the  French, 
by  mutual  agreement,  in  1783  ;  from  which  period  it  has  ever 
since  remained  in  their  possession. 

The  island  of  Goree  also  belongs  to  the  French.  This  is  a 
romantic  little  island,  about  eighty  miles  to  the  north  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Gambia,  and  only  about  a  league  from  the  shore 
of  Cape  Verd.  Its  chief  importance  is  derived  from  its  com- 
manding situation  as  a  place  of  resort  and  protection  for  the 
commerce  of  the  neighbouring  coast.  On  a  sandy  point  of  land, 
at  the  foot  of  a  rocky  eminence,  stands  the  town,  which  contains 
some  good  buildings,  including,  as  usual,  a  hospital  and  a 
Eomish  church.  Towering  above  the  whole  may  be  seen  the 
Fort  of  St.  Michael,  ready  to  open  its  fire  upon  any  enemy  which 


■CHAP.    IV. — EUROPEAN    AND    A:MERICAN    SETTLEMENTS.     83 

may  dare  to  approach.  The  popuhition  is  estimated  at  seven 
thousand,  six  thousand  of  the  inhabitants  being  slaves  at  the 
time  of  emancipation.  A  considerable  trade  is  carried  on  with 
the  natives  on  the  mainland,  who  give  hides,  gold,  ivory,  and 
bees'-wax  for  various  articles  of  European  manufacture.  In  the 
jear  1800,  Goree  was  surrendered  to  the  British;  but  it  was 
retaken  by  the  French  in  January,  1804,  who  were  obliged  to 
surrender  it  again  in  March  following.  It  was  finally  restored 
to  the  French,  however,  at  the  general  peace  of  1814. 

In  addition  to  the  settlements  already  mentioned,  the  French 
claimed,  and  held  for  many  years,  a  small  trading  establishment 
on  the  northern  bank  of  the  river  Gambia,  called  Albreda,  which 
seems  to  have  been  reserved  by  them  at  the  time  that  St. 
Mary's  was  given  up  to  the  English,  and  Goree  ceded  to  the 
French.  It  was  always  a  subject  of  annoyance  to  the  English 
merchants  trading  on  the  Gambia,  as  a  spirit  of  jealousy  and 
rivalry  was  constantly  maintained.  This  difficulty  was  finally 
settled,  however,  a  few  years  ago,  by  a  mutual  arrangement 
between  the  two  Governments.  In  1857,  Queen  Victoria  and 
the  Emperor  of  the  French  concluded  a  treaty  to  prevent  mis- 
understandings with  regard  to  trade  in  Western  Africa.  By 
this  treaty  the  Queen  relinquished  the  right,  hitherto  enjoyed  by 
her  subjects,  of  trading  along  that  part  of  the  coast  which 
extends  from  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  John  to  the  bay  and 
port  of  Portendic,  inclusively ;  and  the  French  Emperor  ceded 
to  her  Britannic  Majesty  the  French  factory  at  Albreda,  on  the 
river  Gambia,  together  with  all  possessions  and  rights  pertaining 
to  the  said  factory. 

We  now  come  to  notice  those  settlements  which  have  been 
formed  on  the  Western  Coast  of  Africa,  not  merely  for  the 
prosecution  of  trade  and  commerce,  but  avowedly  for  philan- 
thropic and  religious  objects, — to  promote  the  civilization  and 
the  evangelization  of  the  deeply  injured  and  neglected  native 
tribes. 

LIBERIA. 

This  is  the  name  given  to  a  district  on  the  coast  of 
•Guinea,  in  consequence  of  its-  having  first  been  colonized  by 

G  2 


84  PAET  I. — WESTERN  AFEICA. 

liberated  slaves  and  free  people  of  colour  from  America.  It 
embraces  an  extent  of  about  six  hundred  miles,  from  Grand 
Cape  Mount  to  tlie  Gulf  of  Guinea ;  the  capital  of  the  settle- 
ment being  situated  in  latitude  6°  north,  and  longitude  lO"^ 
■west.  Under  the  auspices  of  the  *'  American  Colonization 
Society,"  the  first  settlers  proceeded  to  Africa  in  1822,  when  a 
tract  of  land  was  purchased  from  the  natives,  including  Cape 
Mesurado  and  the  neighbouring  plains.  The  plan  of  a  town, 
called  Monrovia,  was  now  formed,  and  dwelling  houses  of 
various  kinds,  according  to  the  means  of  the  colonists,  began  to 
rise  in  rapid  succession.  As  fresh  emigrants  arrived,  from  year 
to  year,  additional  lands  were  secured  from  the  neighbouring 
native  tribes,  to  the  extent  already  mentioned.  The  greater 
part  of  the  early  settlers  were  men  of  decided  piety,  who  sought, 
in  the  land  of  their  forefathers,  a  refuge  from  the  indignities  to 
which  they  were  exposed  in  America  on  account  of  their  com- 
plexion. By  their  just,  humane,  and  benevolent  policy,  they 
have  gained  an  astonishing  influence  over  their  heathen  neigh- 
bours, which,  it  is  to  be  hoped,  may  ultimately  result  in  an 
extensive  dissemination  of  the  Gospel  of  Christ. 

"When  we  contemplate  the  American  settlement  of  Liberia  as 
a  grand  experiment  in  Christian  colonization,  we  must  bear  in 
mind  the  fact  that  it  is  not  a  colony  dependent  upon,  and 
governed  by,  the  parent  states;  but  a  distinct  and  separate- 
commonweallh.  The  people  elect  their  own  Presidents  and 
Eepresentatives  in  Congress,  according  to  a  regular  constitution,, 
framed  on  republican  principles ;  and  display  a  degree  of  intelli- 
gence in  managing  their  affairs  highly  creditable  to  their  ability, 
and  calculated  to  rebut  the  insinuations  which  have  sometimes 
been  put  forth  by  the  enemies  of  freedom,  as  to  the  supposed 
mental  inferiority  of  persons  of  African  descent.  Many  diffi- 
culties had  to  be  encountered  on  the  first  commencement  of  the 
settlement ;  but  most  of  these  have  now  been  surmounted,  and 
the  infant  republic  bids  fair  to  answer  the  benevolent  designs  of 
its  founders.  In  Monrovia  a  number  of  good  substantial 
buildings  have  been  erected,  including  the  Government  house. 
Court  house,  and  churches  and  schools  belonging  to  difl'erent 
denominations   of    Christians.      Other   towns  have  also  been 


CHAP.  IV. — EUROPEAN  AND  AMERICAN  SETTLEMENTS.   85 

erected  in  different  parts  of  the  countiy,  and  a  large  quantity  of 
land  has  been  brought  under  profitable  cultivation.  The  land 
is  said  to  be  remarkably  fertile,  and  well  adapted  for  all  kinds 
of  tropical  produce.  The  sugar-cane,  as  well  as  the  coffee 
plant,  thrives  well  here  ;  and  there  is  a  fair  prospect  of  a  good 
supply  of  cotton,  specimens  of  which  have  recently  been  sent  to 
England,  and  pronounced  of  fine  quality  by  the  Manchester 
Chamber  of  Commerce.  There  are,  moreover,  exported  every 
jTar  from  this  place  considerable  quantities  of  palm  oil,  ivory, 
tortoise-shell,  dye  woods,  gold,  hides,  and  wax;  whilst  the 
imports  consist  of  the  manufactures  and  products  of  the  four 
quarters  of  the  woi'ld.  INIechanics  of  nearly  every  trade  may 
be  seen  carrying  on  their  respective  professions  ;  and,  altogether, 
the  new  little  Christian  empire  wears  an  aspect  of  industry  and 
progress  which  may  well  encoiu-age  the  brightest  anticipations 
of  the  genuine  philanthropist. 

It  is  a  pleasing  fact  that  the  spiritual  interests  of  the 
colonists  and  of  the  neighbouring  native  tribes  have  not  been 
neglected.  The  American  Board  of  Missions,  the  Episcopalians, 
the  Baptists,  and  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  have  all  formed 
Mission  stations  in  different  parts  of  Liberia ;  and  the  results 
of  their  united  labours,  in  establishing  Christian  schools  and 
evangelizing  the  people,  have,  on  the  whole,  been  encouraging. 
The  Missionary  Committee  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church 
have  organized  their  stations  in  Liberia  into  a  separate  Con- 
ference, and  ordained  a  coloured  Minister  as  Bishop,  to  preside 
over  the  work,  which  is  said  to  be  in  a  pleasing  state  of 
prosperity.  This  body  now  numbers  about  twenty  ordained 
Ministers,  two  thousand  church  members,  and  three  thousand 
scholars  in  the  respective  Mission  schools. 

In  common  with  other  similar  philanthropic  enterprises,  the 
settlement  of  Liberia  has  had  its  enemies.  It  was  inaugurated 
in  the  midst  of  a  fiery  controversy,  which  raged  for  a  length  of 
time  in  the  United  States  of  America,  in  the  course  of  which  its 
founders  were  charged  with  entertaining  sentiments  directly  at 
variance  with  the  best  interests  of  the  Negro  race ;  and  the 
members  of  the  American  Colonization  Society  were  denounced 
.as  the  friends  of   slavery.     But  the   prosperity  of  the  infant 


S&  PAET   I. — WESTERN   AFRICA. 

commonwealth  has  long  since  silenced  these  slanderous 
insinuations ;  and  the  whole  undertaking  has  been  proved  to  be 
in  favour  of  freedom. 

From  the  Keports  Avhich  have  been  published  of  the  said 
Colonization  Society,  it  appears  that  the  expenditure  involved 
in  the  purchase  of  land,  and  the  sending  of  emigrants  to 
Liberia,  from  1820  to  1850,  was  about  1,250,000  dollars. 
With  this  comparatively  small  sum,  six  hundred  miles  of  sea- 
coast  have  been  redeemed  from  slavery  and  the  slave  trade ;  and 
a  flourishing  Christian  state  founded,  with  a  population  of  about 
150,000,  chiefly  natives,  who  seem  willing  to  conform  to  the 
arrangements  of  their  more  enlightened  brethren  who  have  come 
from  America.  The  total  number  of  emigrants  sent  to  Liberia, 
by  the  Free  Colonization  Society,  and  its  respective  auxiliaries, 
during  the  period  above  named,  was  6,816.  Of  the  whole 
number  sent  from  America,  2,315  were  born  free,  165  pur- 
chased their  own  freedom,  and  3,636  were  emancipated,  with 
the  view  of  their  going  to  Liberia.  The  expense  of  sending 
each  colonist,  and  supporting  him  for  six  months  after  his- 
arrival,  together  with  a  homestead  of  five  acres  of  land,  is  from^ 
sixty  to  eighty  dollars.  The  Colonization  Society  gives  the 
passage,  furnishes  provisions  and  medical  aid,  with  a  comfort- 
able house,  for  the  first  six  months,  to  each  emigrant  going  to 
Liberia,  besides  the  gift  of  the  homestead. 

It  is  impossible  to  say  what  effect  the  conclusion  of  the  civil 
war  in  America,  and  the  general  emancipation  of  the  slaves,  will 
have  upon  the  future  history  of  Liberia.  If  a  considerable 
number  of  the  recently  freed  men  of  the  United  States  should 
wish  to  go  out  and  join  their  brethren  in  Africa,  they  will  now 
have  facilities  for  doing  so  which  they  never  possessed  before ;. 
and  may  be  the  means  of  strengthening  the  settlement,  if  they 
prove  to  be  emigrants  of  sober,  industrious,  steady  habits.. 
Whatever  events  may  occur  in  the  future,  the  genuine  Christian 
philanthropist  must  feel  interested  in  the  welfare  of  a  settlement 
which  is  so  intimately  connected  with  the  cause  of  freedom,  and. 
with  the  general  welfare  of  the  Western  Coast  of  Africa. 


CHAP.   V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.         87 


CHAPTER  V. 

ENGUSH  SETTLEMENTS  AND  3IISSI0XS. 

England's  true  Glory — Sierra  Leone — Design  of  the  Settlement — Early 
Difficulties— Commencement  of  Missions —Great  Mortality — Progress 
of  the  Work — Blessed  Results — Capr  Coast  Settlement— The 
Castle — "War  with  Native  Tribes — Missionary  Labours — Death  of 
Missionaries — Difficulties  overcome — Native  Assistants — Present  State 
of  the  "Work — The  Gambia — Description  of  St.  Mary's — Commeuce- 
meut  of  the  Mission — Discouragements — Native  Converts — Death  of 
Missionaries. 

Every  enlightened  and  patnotic  Briton  must  rejoice  in  the 
contemplation  of  England's  true  glory.  "We  refer  not  now  to 
England's  mighty  army,  her  powerful  navy,  or  her  extensive 
commerce,  but  to  England's  Christianity.  It  is  a  grand 
thought,  that  the  sun  never  sets  on  Queen  Victoria's  vast 
dominions,  that  the  British  flag  floats  in  every  sea  ;  but  it  is  a 
grander  thought  still,  that  the  name  of  England  is  everywhere 
associated  with  liberty,  justice,  and  humanity ;  and  that  she 
stands  first  among  the  nations  in  her  ettbrts  to  extend  the 
blessings  of  Christian  civilization  to  other  lands  less  favoured 
than  herself. 

We  have  seen  how  the  British  Government  acted  in  the 
matter  of  slavery  and  the  slave  trade  ;  and  how  individual 
philanthropists,  as  well  as  associations  of  Christian  men,  exerted 
themselves  to  wipe  away  the  stain  which  so  long  marred  the 
fair  fame  of  our  national  character,  in  common  with  that 
of  other  countries.  We  are  now  to  contemplate  the  philan- 
thropic labours  of  England  and  English  associations,  on 
behalf  of  the  long  enslaved  and  down-trodden  sons  and 
daughters  of  Ham,  as  they  have  been  developed  in  the  perma- 
nent  settlements   and    Christian   Missions   which    have   been 


88  FART    T. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

establislicd  on  the  Western  Coast  of  Africa.  We  are  aware  tliat 
these  institutions  have  had  their  enemies  and  slanderers  ;  but 
we  feel  persuaded  that  if  their  beneficial  influence  could  have 
been  witnessed  by  all  as  we  have  seen  it,  all  would  be  con- 
strained to  acknowledge  that  they  are  well  calculated  to 
disseminate  the  l)lessings  of  spiritual  light,  and  knowledge,  and 
liberty,  throughout  tlie  length  and  breadth  of  the  vast  continent 
which  has  been,  alas  !  so  long  involved  in  midnight  darkness. 


SIERRA  LEONE. 

The  first  British  settlement  formed  on  the  "Western  Coast 
of  Africa,  the  avowed  object  of  which  was  the  suppression 
of  the  slave  trade,  and  the  religious  and  moral  improve- 
ment of  the  natives,  received  the  name  of  Sierra  Leone  from 
a  river  so  called,  on  the  southern  bank  of  which  the  first 
town  was  built,  in  latitude  8°  30'  north,  and  longitude  11°  10' 
west.  'For  hundreds  of  miles  on  either  hand,  the  coast  is 
generally  low  and  swampy;  but  here  the  land  rises  into 
mountains  of  considerable  altitude,  and  there  is  a  bold  penin- 
suhi  stretching  out  into  the  sea,  and  forming  an  excellent 
natural  harbour  for  shipping  in  the  mouth  of  the  river,  which  is 
navigable  for  vessels  of  moderate  burden  to  a  considerable 
distance  up  the  country.  These  natural  advantages  soon 
attracted  the  attention  of  Europeans ;  and  as  early  as  1463,  the 
Portuguese  established  themselves  for  a  time  at  this  place. 
The  notorious  Sir  J.  Hawkins,  the  first  Englishman  who 
embarked  in  the  African  slave  trade,  also  landed  here ;  and 
made  unsparing  use  of  fire  and  sword  in  capturing  the  poor 
natives,  to  drag  them  into  hopeless  slavery.  But  the  time  came 
when  this  locality  was  to  be  the  scene  of  a  very  different 
enterprise;  and  when  the  long  degraded  Negro  race  were  to 
know  that  there  were  white  men  who  felt  for  them  as  men  and 
brethren. 

On  the  21st  of  July,  1783,  Dr.  Smeatham,  wdio  had  spent 
several  years  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  addressed  a  letter  to  Dr. 
Knowles,  suggesting  the  idea  of  a  free  Negro  settlement  at 
Sierra  Leone,  for  the  purpose  of  checking  and  putting  down  the 


CHAP.    V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.  S9 

«lave  trade,  and  of  diffusing  the  principles  of  the  Christian 
religion  among  the  natives.  The  same  subject  seems  to  have 
been  occupying  the  mind  of  the  benevolent  Mr.  Sharp  at  the 
very  same  time  ;  for  on  the  1st  of  August  of  the  same  year,  he 
sketched  the  outline  of  the  plan  of  such  a  settlement,  which,  he 
observes  in  the  first  paragraph,  "  will  deserve  all  encourage- 
ment, if  the  settlers  are  absolutely  prohibited  from  holding  any 
kind  of  projjerfy  m  the  persons  of  men  as  slaves,  and  selling 
either  man,  woman,  or  child."  The  necessity  for  such  a  settle- 
ment was  rendered  the  more  urgent,  in  consequence  of  a  large 
number  of  Negroes  having  obtained  their  freedom  by  deserting 
from  their  master,  and  joining  the  British  in  the  American 
war ;  and  for  whom  it  was  necessary  to  provide  a  permanent 
home.  Some  of  these  had  been  sent  to  Nova  Scotia,  others  to 
the  Bahama  islands,  and  many  more  had  come  to  England  with 
the  British  army  at  the  close  of  the  war.  Those  who  crowded 
the  streets  of  the  metropolis  were  in  a  wretched  condition  of 
misery  and  starvation.  As  many  as  four  hundred  applied  to 
Mr.  Sluirp  and  other  benevolent  gentlemen  at  one  time ;  and  it 
was  found  necessary  to  organize  a  Committee  for  relieving  the 
black  poor. 

The  number  of  Negro  mendicants  in  and  about  London  being 
now  so  large,  they  w^ere  regarded  as  a  public  nuisance  ;  and  the 
Government  interfered,  by  providing  temporary  relief  for  the 
poor  sufferers,  and  by  furnishing  transports  to  take  out  as 
many  as  were  willing  to  go  to  the  coast  of  Africa ;  at  the  same 
time  engaging  to  provide  rations  for  the  settlers  during  the  first 
six  months  after  their  arrival.  Everything  being  arranged,  at 
length  the  little  fleet  sailed  under  convoy  of  the  "  Nautilus  " 
sloop  of  war,  on  the  Sth  of  April,  1787  ;  having  on  board  up- 
wards of  four  hundred  Negroes  and  sixty  Europeans,  chiefly 
-women  of  very  doubtful  character. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  vessels  at  Sierra  Leone,  Captain  Thomp- 
son, who  had  been  placed  at  the  head  of  the  expedition,  pur- 
chased from  the  paramount  native  Chief  of  the  country  a  fine 
tract  of  land  about  twenty  miles  square,  well  watered,  and  in 
every  respect  suitable  for  tlie  purpose  of  a  settlement.  He  then 
fixed  upon  a  beautiful  eminence  on  the  southern  bank  of  the 


90  PART   I. WESTERN   AFRICA. 

river  for  the  site  of  the  new  township.  About  three  hundrecl: 
and  sixty  town  lots  of  one  acre  each  were  marked  out  in  streets; 
and  the  lots  were  drawn  for  and  appropriated  on  the  13th  of 
June,  1787.  But,  notwithstanding  these  favourable  circum- 
stances, the  commencement  of  the  settlement  was  extremely 
inauspicious.  The  Negroes  had  become  thoroughly  demoralized 
during  their  residence  in  London ;  and,  if  possible,  still  more  so 
during  the  passage  out, — a  large  quantity  of  ardent  spirits  having 
been  consumed  on  board  the  ships.  They,  moreover,  arrived  at 
Sierra  Leone  at  the  most  sickly  season  of  the  year,  in  a  spirit  of 
general  murmuring  and  discontent,  and  the  mortality  from  the 
commencement  was  fearful.  When  the  "  Nautilus  "  left  the 
settlement,  about  three  months  after  the  arrival  of  the  fleet, 
there  remained  in  the  colony  only  two  hundred  and  seventy-six 
persons  :  so  that,  by  desertions  and  deaths,  the  settlers  had  been 
reduced  in  this  short  space  of  time  to  little  more  than  one  half 
the  original  number.  In  March,  1788,  the  Eev.  Mr.  Eraser, 
who  had  gone  out  as  colonial  Chaplain,  was  obliged  to  return  to 
England,  on  account  of  illness;  and,  at  the  time  of  his  departure, 
the  number  of  colonists  had  been  reduced  to  one  hundred  and 
thirty.  Apprehensive  that  the  infant  settlement  might  become 
entirely  extinct,  Mr.  Sharp  hastened  to  its  relief,  by  sending  out 
the  brig  "Myro,"  laden  with  stores,  and  conveying  thirty-nine 
additional  settlers,  including  two  medical  men  and  other  persons 
of  respectable  character.  This  timely  relief  encouraged  the  few 
surviving  colonists ;  but  now  they  were  doomed  to  experience 
another  sad  calamity.  A  neighbouring  African  Chief,  feeling 
aggrieved  by  the  conduct  of  some  of  the  settlers,  first  gave 
notice  of  his  intention,  and  then  came  down  with  his  warriors, 
and  burnt  the  town  to  ashes. 

In  the  year  1791  another  Association  was  formed  for  the 
management  of  the  settlement ;  by  whose  eiforts  a  few  of  the 
dispersed  colonists,  to  the  number  of  sixty-four,  were  again 
collected,  and  encouraged  to  make  another  attempt  to  fonn  a 
permanent  establishment.  About  the  same  time  twelve  hundred 
of  the  free  Negroes,  before  alluded  to,  were  brought  over  in  six- 
teen vessels  from  Nova  Scotia,  and  also  one  hundred  Europeans 
from  England ;  who  arrived  just  in  time  to  put  down  a  party  of 


CHAP.  V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMEjS'TS    A:N'D    MISSIONS.        91 

rebellious  Negroes.  With  this  large  reinforcement  of  settlers,  a 
fresh  commencement  was  made,  and  a  new  town  began  rapidly 
to  rise  on  a  better  site  than  the  former  one,  which,  by  the  in- 
structions of  the  Directors,  was  called  Free  Town.  During  the 
following  two  or  three  years  the  infant  colony  made  rapid  ad« 
vancement;  but  in  1794  the  town  was  entirely  destroyed  by  a 
French  squadron.  By  this  untoward  circumstance  a  large 
amount  of  private  property  was  sacrificed,  and  the  loss  of  the 
Company  was  estimated  at  £50,000. 

Disappointed  and  discouraged  by  the  frequent  reverses  which 
they  had  experienced,  in  ]808  the  Company  transferred  th& 
entire  settlement  to  the  British  Government.  From  that  period 
it  has  continued  to  prosper,  notwithstanding  the  difficulties  which 
it  has  had  to  encounter  from  the  imhealthiness  of  the  climate, 
and  the  political  enemies  by  whom  it  has  frequently  been 
assailed.  Most  of  the  slaves  liberated  by  the  British  cruisers 
stationed  along  the  coast  for  the  suppression  of  the  slave  trade, 
having  been  brought  to  Sierra  Leone,  the  population  has 
rapidly  increased,  and  is  noAV  estimated  at  upwards  of  fifty 
thousand,  including  about  one  hundred  Europeans,  some  of 
whom  are  engaged  in  public  offices,  and  others  in  mercantile 
speculations.  Many  of  the  liberated  Africans  have  arisen  to  a 
position  of  intelligence  and  wealth;  and  carry  on  business  on  an 
extensive  scale,  importing  their  merchandise  direct  from  whole- 
sale houses  in  England. 

Free  Town,  the  capital  of  the  colony,  is  beautifully  situated 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river  or  estuary,  on  a  gentle  slope  at 
the  foot  of  a  hill,  about  six  miles  distant  from  the  point  of  the- 
peninsula,  in  latitude  8"  30'  north,  and  longitude  13°  30'  west. 
It  presents  a  charming  aspect,  when  viewed  from  the  sea ;  many 
of  the  buildings  being  of  a  substantial  character,  and  inter- 
spersed with  cocoa  nut  and  other  umbrageous  trees  of  the 
freshest  green.  The  Government  House,  barracks,  hospital, 
and  the  Wesleyan  Mission-House  and  chapel,  are  prominent 
objects  in  the  landscape,  in  consequence  of  the  elevated  posi- 
tions which  tliey  occupy  in  the  rear  of  the  town.  There  are 
also  many  other  towns  and  villages  in  different  parts  of  the 


92  PART    I. — TVESTEEN    AFRICA. 

colony,  some  of  wliicli  are  situated  among  tlie  mountains,  and 
others  by  the  sea  shore,  surrounded  by  native  farms  and 
gardens.  The  principal  of  these  are  Wilberforce,  Wellington, 
Waterloo,  York,  Eegent,  Kissey,  Kent,  Charlotte,  Leicester, 
Gloucester,  Bathurst,  xVllen  Town,  and  Grassfield.  In  these 
places  the  liberated  Africans  are  located,  and  may  be  seen 
engaged  in  various  industrial  pursuits  ;  some  as  agriculturists, 
and  others  as  merchants  or  mechanics.  Having  been  originally 
stolen  from  various  parts  of  the  vast  continent,  they  speak  a 
great  variety  of  dialects  among  themselves ;  but  they  soon 
learn  English,  and  become,  with  proper  instruction,  intelligent 
and  useful  members  of  society.  Altogether,  the  settlement  wears 
a  pleasing  aspect ;  and  bids  fair  to  fulfil  the  most  sanguine 
expectations  of  its  friends  and  patrons.  The  population  of 
Free  Town  is  estimated  at  15,000,  and  that  of  the  whole 
colony  at  50,000. 

The  most  pleasing  feature  in  the  colony  of  Sierra  Leone  is, 
however,  its  rapid  advancement  in  religion  and  morals.  At  an 
early  period  of  the  settlement,  colonial  Chaplains  were  appointed, 
several  of  whom  were  pious  and  devoted  men  :  some  of  these 
were  soon  removed  by  death,  whilst  others  had  to  return  to 
Europe  on  account  of  the  failure  of  their  health.  The  agents  of 
the  Church  Missionary  Society  have  also  laboured  with  indefati- 
gable zeal  and  considerable  success,  notwithstandhig  the 
difficulties  with  which  they  have  had  to  contend.  They 
commenced  their  operations  in  this  country  in  the  year  1804- ; 
and  although  the  Missionaries  and  teachers  employed  were 
chiefly  Germans,  and  of  strong  constitution,  and  inured  to 
hardship,  in  the  course  of  fifteen  years  thirty  of  them  fell  a 
sacrifice  to  the  climate.  In  1816,  the  Mission  was  favoured 
■with  a  visit  from  the  Eev.  Edward  Bickersteth,  as  a  deputation 
from  the  parent  Society,  whose  wise  counsels  and  judicious 
arrangements  gave  a  new  impulse  to  the  work.  Erom  that 
time  to  the  present,  the  cause  of  God  has  continued  to  advance ; 
and  the  churches  which  have  been  erected,  and  the  schools 
which  have  been  established,  in  connexion  with  this  Institution, 
not  only  in  the  colony,  but  beyond  its  boundary,  have  been 
made  a  general  blessing  to  the  people. 


CHAP.    V. ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.        93 

The  Baptist  Missionary  Society  sent  out  two  Missionaries  to 
Sierra  Leone  in  the  year  1795  ;  but  owing  to  indiscretion  on 
the  part  of  one,  and  the  failure  of  health  on  the  part  of  the 
other,  the  Mission  was  speedily  abandoned.  In  the  following 
year  a  united  attempt  was  made  by  the  Scottish,  the  Glasgow, 
and  the  London  Missionary  Societies,  to  form  a  station ;  but, 
owing  to  sickness  and  dissension  among  the  agents,  this  effort 
was  attended  by  no  better  success. 

We  w^ould  now  direct  attention  more  especially  to  the  labours 
of  the  AVesleyan  Missionary  Society  in  this  part  of  the  Lord's 
vineyard.  As  early  as  1769,  the  venerable  Dr.  Coke,  the  father 
of  Wesleyan  Missions,  devised  a  scheme  for  the  civilization  of 
the  Foolas,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Sierra  Leone.  This  under- 
taking, which  originated  in  motives  so  purely  benevolent,  proved 
an  entire  failure,  chiefly  from  the  want  of  adaptation  in  the 
agents  employed.  The  persons  sent  forth  by  the  good  Doctor 
on  this  important  IMission  were  a  band  of  mechanics,  with  a 
surgeon  at  their  head,  who  were  intended  to  teach  the  Foolas 
the  arts  of  civilized  life.  On  arriving  in  the  colony,  they 
became  discontented,  and  were  soon  dispersed.  Some  died, 
others  absconded,  and  the  rest  returned  home,  without  having 
reached  the  scene  of  their  intended  labours  in  the  interior  of  the 
country. 

The  next  attempt  made  by  the  ATesleyans  to  benefit  this 
deeply  degraded  people  was  based  upon  more  judicious  and 
evangelical  principles.  In  the  year  1811,  the  Rev.  G.  Warren 
and  three  school  teachers  were  sent  out  to  Sierra  Leone,  for  the 
express  purpose  of  preaching  the  Gospel,  and  establishing* 
schools  for  the  training  up  of  the  rising  generation  in  the 
knowledge  of  the  truth.  They  opened  their  commission  under 
the  most  promising  circumstances,  and  were  favoured  by  the 
great  Head  of  the  Church  with  almost  immediate  fruit  to  their 
labours.  On  the  arrival  of  this  first  real  missionary  party  of 
"Wesleyan  labourers  in  the  colony,  on  the  12th  of  November, 
they  found  about  a  hundred  persons  who  were  in  the  habit  of 
meeting  together  for  religious  worship,  and  who  called  them- 
selves "Methodists."  These  w^ere  chiefly  free  blacks  from 
Nova-Scotia,  who  had  received  the  Gospel  from  the  Missionaries 


^4  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA, 

there,  and  wlio  had  thus  brought  with  them  a  knowledge  of  the 
good  news  of  salvation  to  the  land  of  their  adoption.  They 
had  already  built  a  chapel,  and  written  to  England  for  a  ISIis- 
sionary.  By  these  simple-hearted  people  the  Missionary  was 
received  with  the  liveliest  feelings  of  gratitude  and  joy,  and  his 
public  ministrations  were  made  a  blessing  to  their  souls.  His 
labours  were  also  blessed  to  other  classes  of  the  community. 
The  very  afflictions  through  which  the  liberated  Africans  had 
passed,  in  being  torn  away  from  their  homes  into  slavery, 
before  they  were  taken  from  their  oppressors  by  the  British 
cruisers,  seemed  to  have  humbled  their  minds,  and,  in  some 
degree,  to  have  prepared  them  for  the  reception  of  the 
Gospel. 

The  missionary  career  of  Mr.  Warren,  so  auspiciously  com- 
menced, was  but  of  short  duration.  He  finished  his  course  on 
the  23rd  of  July,  IS  12,  about  eight  months  after  his  arrival  in 
the  colony;  being  the  first  of  the  large  number  of  Wesleyan 
labourers  who  have  fallen  a  sacrifice  to  the  climate  of  Western 
Africa.  Tor  more  than  two  years  the  station  had  remained 
vacant  for  want  of  a  suitable  Missionary  to  occupy  the  post  of 
danger,  when  the  Kev.  William  Davies  and  his  wife  were  sent 
out,  and  arrived  safely  in  Sierra  Leone  on  the  13th  of  February, 
1815.  The  following  rainy  season  was  unusually  severe ;  and 
among  those  who  were  carried  off  by  fever  was  the  Captain  of  the 
*'  Wilding,"  the  vessel  by  which  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Davies  had  sailed 
to  Africa ;  but  the  Missionary  and  his  wife  passed  through  their 
"  seasoning  "  favourably,  and  pursued  their  useful  labours  with 
gratitude  and  joy.  Towards  the  close  of  the  year,  however, 
both  the  Missionary  and  his  wife  were  prostrated  by  fever  at  the 
same  time;  and  on  the  15th  of  December,  ten  months  after  her 
arrival  in  Africa,  Mrs.  Davies  breathed  her  last.  On  the  morn- 
ing of  the  day  on  which  she  expired,  Mr.  Davies,  being  very  ill 
himself,  "  crawled  to  see  her,"  and  was  much  affected  at  the 
change  which  had  passed  upon  her  emaciated  frame ;  but,  in 
answer  to  the  question,  "  Is  Jesus  precious  ?  "  she,  with  a  faint 
voice  and  a  gentle  pressure  of  the  hand,  said,  *'  Yes,  yes  !  " 
soon  after  which  her  redeemed  and  sanctified  spirit  passed  away 
to  be  for  ever  with  the  Lord.     This  was  the  first  female  labourer 


CHAP.   V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.        95 

ihat  fell ;   and  the  striking  motto  on  her  tombstone  is,  "  Not 

LOST,  BUT  GONE  BEFORE  !  " 

The  lonely  Missionary,  on  recovering  from  his  illness,  was 
soon  found  at  the  post  of  duty,  being  encouraged  and  comforted 
by  his  beloved  brethren  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society,  as 
well  as  by  his  Excellency  the  Governor,  Sir  Charles  Macarthy, 
-who  never  failed  to  sympathize  with  the  afflicted  and  bereaved. 
Mr.  Davies  laboured  with  much  success  during  the  following 
year  ;  and,  on  the  26th  of  December,  1816,  he  had  the  pleasure 
of  receiving  the  Kev.  Samuel  and  Mrs.  Brown,  who  were  sent 
out  by  the  parent  Society  to  his  aid,  or  to  relieve  him,  if  neces- 
sary. Mrs.  Brown  had  only  lived  in  Africa  seven  months  and 
two  days,  when  she  was  cut  down  in  the  prime  of  life,  and  in 
the  midst  of  her  useful  labours.  She  died  in  the  Lord  on  the 
28th  of  July,  1817.  The  two  Missionaries,  thus  bereaved, 
toiled  on  together  in  the  work  of  their  Divine  Master,  encou- 
raged by  His  presence  and  blessing  till  the  end  of  the  year ;  but 
repeated  attacks  of  fever  rendered  it  necessary  for  Mr.  Davies  to 
embark  for  England  early  in  1818,  and  Mr.  Brown  was  left 
entirely  alone. 

The  next  reinforcement  consisted  of  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Baker 
and  Gillison,  two  single  young  men,  who  were  sent  out  to 
relieve  Mr.  Brown,  who,  in  consequence  of  failure  of  health  and 
the  loss  of  his  wife,  needed  a  change.  The  new  Missionaries 
landed  in  Sierra  Leone  on  the  morning  of  the  14  th  of  Eebruaiy, 
1819.  It  was  the  holy  Sabbath  day,  and  they  proceeded  from 
the  ship  to  the  chapel,  where  they  opened  their  commission 
without  delay ;  one  of  them  preaching  in  the  morning,  and  the 
other  in  the  evening,  to  crowded  and  delighted  congregations. 
Soon  after  the  arrival  of  the  new  brethren,  Mr.  Brown  embarked 
for  England ;  but,  before  his  departure,  he  thus  gives  expression 
to  his  feelings  in  a  letter  to  the  Missionary  Committee,  alluding 
to  the  prosperity  with  which  it  had  pleased  the  Lord  to  bless 
his  labours,  one  hundred  new  members  having  been  added  to 
the  society  during  the  year :  "  I  have  sown  in  tears,  but  now 
we  reap  in  joy.  Thank  God  !  this  is  an  ample  recompense  for 
€very  sigh,  eveiy  tear,  every  shaking  ague,  every  burning  fever, 
every  bereavement,  eveiy  restless  and  sleepless  night,  I  have. 


96-  PAET    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

had  to  endure  since  I  came  to  Africa.  This  makes  me  veiy 
reluctant  to  leave.  I  feel  willing  to  spend  and  be  spent  for 
the  welfare  of  the  Church  and  the  honour  of  my  adorable 
Eedeemer."  * 

In  the  mean  time,  the  brethren  Baker  and  Gillison  had  entered 
upon  their  work  in  the  true  spirit  of  their  Lord  and  Master ; 
but  they  were  soon  to  experience  the  truth  of  that  saying : 
*'  Then  shall  two  be  in  the  field ;  the  one  shall  be  taken,  and  the 
other  left."  (Matt.  xxiv.  40.)  Mr.  Gillison  had  not  been  in 
Africa  quite  six  months  when  he  was  carried  off  by  the  fever 
peculiar  to  the  country,  on  the  10th  of  August,  1819.  Mr. 
Baker  was  himself  ill  at  the  time  that  his  beloved  colleague 
died ;  but  as  soon  as  he  was  a  little  better,  he  preached  the 
funeral  sermon  of  his  dear  departed  brother,  and  endeavoured  to 
nerve  himself  for  his  important  work,  in  which  he  was  both 
happy  and  useful.  He  thus  expresses  his  sentiments,  when 
writing  to  the  Committee  in  the  month  of  November  following : 
"I  can  assure  my  dear  fathers,  notwithstanding  these  try- 
ing dispensations  of  Providence,  I  feel  happy  in  my  w^ork,  and 
am  satisfied  I  am  in  my  providential  place.  The  Lord  makes 
me  happy  by  the  continual  manifestation  of  His  favour,  and 
many  of  these  dear  people  make  me  happy  by  their  unblam- 
able life  and  conversation.  Glory  be  to  God  !  unworthy  as  I 
am  of  such  an  honour,  he  is  pleased  to  make  me  useful.'* 

During  the  year  1820,  a  gracious  outpouring  of  the  Holy 
Spirit  was  experienced  at  Sierra  Leone ;  and,  as  the  result  of 
the  revival,  upwards  of  two  hundred  new  members  were  added 
to  the  Society,  making  the  total  number  four  hundred  and 
seventy.     With  reference  to  the  genuineness  of  this  work,  Mr. 

*  On  leaving  Western  Africa,  the  Rev.  Samuel  Brown  was  appointed  to 
the  West  Indies,  where  he  continued  four  years.  He  subsequently  laboured 
in  seventeen  different  Circuits  in  England,  till  the  year  1851,  when  failing 
health  obliged  him  to  retire  as  a  Supernumerary.  In  1857,  notwithstanding 
his  age  and  infirmity,  he  felt  it  upon  his  heart  to  re-visit  the  scenes  of  his 
earliest  missionary  efforts,  and  he  went  out  to  Sierra  Leone  forthwith,  of 
his  own  accord.  There  he  spent  three  years,  assisting  the  Missionaries  in 
their  work,  as  his  strength  would  permit ;  and  then  returned  to  Liverpool, 
where  he  died  in  peace  on  the  5th  of  October,  1861, — a  noble  instance  of 
true  devotedness  to  the  great  missionary  enterprise. 


CHAP.    Y. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.         97 

Baker  says  :  "  I  do  not  hesitate  to  say,  of  nearly  all  those  who 
have  been  added,  I  have  no  more  doubt  of  their  conversion  than 
of  my  own.  The  work  has  produced  a  general  reformation." 
On  the  Sth  of  November,  just  one  week  after  these  delightful 
sentiments  were  penned,  the  Eev.  John  and  Mrs.  Huddleston 
arrived  from  England,  and  were  much  pleased  with  the  kind 
reception  which  they  received,  as  well  as  with  the  state  and 
prosperity  of  the  Mission.  They  were  soon  joined  by  Mr. 
Lane,  who  sailed  for  Sierra  Leone  in  January,  1S21 ;  and  now 
IMr.  Barker  was  at  liberty  to  proceed  to  the  river  Gambia,  to 
commence  a  new  Mission,  to  which  service  he  had  been  appointed 
by  the  preceding  Conference. 

Messrs.  Huddleston  and  Lane  had  laboured  together  in  har- 
mony and  love  for  several  months,  when  the  latter  was  called  to 
the  Gambia,  to  supply  the  place  of  a  deceased  Missionary.  He 
returned  to  Sierra  Leone,  however,  in  the  course  of  the  following- 
year;  but  never  fully  recovered  from  a  severe  attack  of  fever 
which  he  had  at  the  Gambia.  He  died  in  peace  at  Free  Town, 
on  the  16th  of  April,  1823.  The  loss  of  Mr.  Lane  was  severely 
felt  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Huddleston,  as  well  as  by  the  members  of 
society  and  other  friends ;  but,  painful  as  this  bereavement  was,  it 
was  soon  followed  by  another  mysterious  dispensation  of  Divine 
Providence.  Scarcely  had  three  months  passed  away,  when 
Mr.  Huddleston  himself  was  called  to  pass  through  the  valley 
of  the  shadow  of  death.  He  died  of  yellow  fever  on  the  20th 
of  July,  1823,  having  laboured  successfully  for  nearly  three 
years,  with  little  interruption  from  sickness  till  the  time  that 
he  was  attacked  with  the  fatal  malady.  Mrs.  Huddleston  em- 
barked for  England  soon  after  this  painful  bereavement :  and  the 
members  of  the  Society  at  Sierra  Leone  were  once  more  left  as 
sheep  without  a  shepherd. 

But  the  station  was  not  long  left  vacant.  Two  noble-minded 
and  heroic  young  men,  who  "  counted  not  their  lives  dear  unto 
them  "  in  comparison  with  the  salvation  of  soids,  volunteered 
their  services  for  this  post  of  danger  and  of  honour.  These 
were  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Piggott  and  Harte,  who,  aftei*  a  passage 
of  five  weeks,  landed  in  Sierra  Leone  on  the  19th  of  March, 
1824.     The  new  Missionaries  were  received  as  the  angels  of 


98  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

God,  and   commenced   their   evangelical   labours   in  excellent 
health  and  spirits ;  but  they  were  destined  soon  to  be  separated. 
Mr.  Harte  sickened  and  died,  of  the  "  country  fever,"  on  the 
18th  of  December,  after  a  sojourn  in  Africa  of  only  nine  months ; 
and  his  colleague  was  left  to  proceed  with  his  work  alone.     On 
the  26th   of  May,  1826,  the  Eev.  Samuel  and  Mrs.  Dawson 
landed   at    Sien-a  Leone,  on  their  way  to  the  Gambia,  their 
appointed  station ;  but,  before  an  opportunity  offered  for  pro- 
ceeding to  that  place,  they  were  both  seized  with  the  African 
fever;  and  Mrs.  Dawson  died  on  the  1st  of  August,  only  two 
months  and  five  days  after  her  arrival.    Mr.  Dawson  himself  was 
mercifully  raised  from  the  verge  of  the  grave  ;  and,  after  labour- 
ing at  Sierra  Leone  for  some  time,  he  proceeded  to  his  appoint- 
ment at  the  Gambia,  with  a  heavy  heart,  but  fully  resolved  to 
spend  and  be  spent  in  the  service  of  God.     He  was  accom- 
panied by  his  friend  Mr.  Piggott,  who  now  returned  to  England 
by  this  route,  having  been  relieved  by  the  arrival  of  the  Rev. 
Messrs.  Courties  and  May,  who  reached  Sierra  Leone  on  the 
2Sth  of  November,  1826.     These  two  brethren  pursued  their 
beloved  work  for  two  years  without  much  interruption  from 
sickness,  preaching  the  Gospel  of  Christ  in  the  respective  towns 
and  villages  of  the  colony  with  great  success.     The  term  of 
their   appointment    having  expired,  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Munro 
and  Peck  were  sent  out  to  relieve  them ;   and  the  hope  was 
entertained  that  they  would  reach  England  in  safety,  and  be  long 
spared  to  labour  in  other  parts  of  the  Mission  field.    But,  alas  1 
it  was  otherwise  ordained  by  Him  whose  "  wisdom  is  unsearch- 
able, and   whose  ways  are  past  finding  out."     The  two  new 
Missionaries  arrived  in  Sierra  Leone  on  the  16th  of  November, 
1828  ;   and  the  first  intelligence  which  they  received  from  the 
pilot,  before  they  landed,  was,  that  Mr.  May  had  died  of  fever  on 
the  4th  of  October,  whilst  in  the  midst  of  his  preparations  for 
his  expected  voyage   to  England.     Mr.  Courties  was  also  fre- 
quently prostrated  by  fever  ;  and  when  he  embarked  for  Europe, 
he  was  so  weak  that  his  brethren  had  to  support  him  to  the 
boat  which  was  to  convey  him  to  the  ship.    The  Captain  seemed 
confident  that  he  would  speedily  rally  when  they  got  out  to  sea. 
But  it  was  not  so.     The  poor  Missionary  became  weaker  and 


CHAP.    V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.        9^ 

weaker,  and  finislied  his  course  three  days  after  the  ship  left  the 
coast  of  Africa.  His  body  was  committed  to  the  great  deep, 
till  that  day  when  the  "  sea  shall  give  up  her  dead."  The 
Lord,  no  doubt,  took  His  servant  from  the  evil  to  come ;  for  the 
vessel  in  which  he  sailed  was  wrecked  six  days  after  his  death, 
when  every  thing  on  board  was  lost,  the  Captain  and  crew  saving 
their  lives  with  great  difficulty.  In  the  mean  time,  INIessrs. 
!Munro  and  Peck  continued  to  labour  with  zeal  and  diligence, 
till  they  were  both  cut  down  by  an  epidemic  fever  which  visited 
the  colony.  Mr.  Peck  died  on  the  3rd,  and  Mr.  Munro  on  the 
8th,  of  July,  1829.  The  intelligence  of  this  afflictive  and 
mysterious  dispensation  of  Divine  Providence  was  communicated 
to  the  Committee  by  the  Missionaries  of  the  Church  Society, 
who  manifested  the  greatest  sympathy  and  kindness  towards  their 
beloved  brethren  in  their  dying  hours.  The  Wesleyan  Societies 
and  Congregations  in  Sierra  Leone  were  now  once  more  left 
without  a  single  Missionary  to  minister  to  them  the  word  of  life. 
The  sudden  removal  of  Messrs.  Munro  and  Peck,  so  soon, 
after  the  death  of  Messrs.  May  and  Courties,  produced  a  deep 
and  gloomy  impression,  not  only  on  the  minds  of  their  personal 
relatives,  but  upon  the  minds  of  the  friends  of  ^lissions  generally. 
Seme  went  so  far  as  to  question  the  propriety  of  continuing  to 
send  European  Missionaries  to  a  country  so  unfriendly  to  health. 
It  is  a  pleasing  fact,  however,  that,  although  the  Wesleyan 
Missionary  Committee  send  to  Western  Africa  only  such  as 
freely  volunteer  their  services  for  that  post  of  danger,  they 
have  never  long  wanted  suitable  men  to  fill  up  the  vacancies 
which  have  so  frequently  occurred.  It  was  so  in  this  case.  No 
sooner  had  the  melancholy  intelligence  reached  England  of  the 
painful  bereavement  which  the  Sierra  Leone  Mission  had 
suffered,  than  a  personal  friend  of  Mr.  Peck  offered  himself  as 
his  successor.  The  Eev.  John  Keightley  embarked  for  Africa 
before  the  end  of  the  year,  and  landed  in  Eree  Town  on  the 
27th  of  January,  1830.  On  the  ISth  of  March  in  the  following 
year  he  was  joined    by  the  Eev.  William  Eitchie.*      These 

*  The  name  of  this  honoured  servant  of  Christ  recalls  to  the  memory  of 
the  writer  many  affecting  incidents  of  missionary  Hfe.  We  were  personally 
acquainted  with  each  other  from  the  commencement  of  our  eventful  course ; 

H    2 


100  PAKT  I. — WESTERN  AFEICA. 

honoured  and  devoted  Missionaries  laboured  in  Sierra  Leone 
for  upwards  of  two  years  with  much  success ;  and  they  both 
lived  to  return  home,  and  to  serve  the  church  efficiently  for 
many  years,  both  in  the  West  Indies  and  in  Englaud.  Mr.. 
Keightley,  who  still  survives,  is  the  only  Missionary  that  we 
have  ever  heard  of,  who  laboured  in  Western  Africa  for  three- 
years  without  ever  having  a  regular  attack  of  the  country^ 
fever. 

Before  leaving  Sierra  Leone,  early  in  1833,  Mr.  Eitchie  had' 
the  pleasure  of  receiving  the  Eev.  Edw^ard  Maer,  who  had  been 
sent  out  as  his  successor ;  and,  towards  the  close  of  the  same- 
year,  Mr.  Maer  was  joined  by  the  Eev.  Isaac  Clarke.  These 
two  brethren  laboured  together  earnestly  and  successfully, 
extending  their  visits  to  several  villages  which  had  not  been 
reached  by  former  Missionaries.  Then*  labours  were  soon  inter- 
rupted, however;  for  Mr.  Clarke,  whose  lungs  were  affected 
before  he  left  England,  never  fully  recovered  from  the  effects  of 
his  seasoning  fever,  and  died  in  peace,  of  pulmonary  consumption, 
on  the  4th  of  November,  1834,  about  twelve  months  after 
his  arrival  in  the  colony.  The  Eev.  Benjamin  Crosby  had 
embarked  for  Africa  before  the  intelligence  of  Mr.  Clarke's  death 
had  reached  England,  and  on  his  arrival  in  Sierra  Leone  he 
united  with  Mr.  Maer  in  the  work  of  the  Mission  with  all  his 
heart.  These  two  faithful  Ministers  of  Christ  did  good  service 
in  Western  Africa ;  but  they  never  saw  their  native  land  again. 
Mr.  Maer,  having  continued  at  Sierra  Leone  longer  than  the 
appointed  time,  embarked  for  England  on  a  visit,  fuUy  intend- 
ing to  return ;  but  he  died  at  sea  three  days  after  leaving  the 

and  after  several  years  of  affectionate  correspondence  in  Western  Africa  and 
other  countries,  we  were  favoured  to  labour  together  as  colleagues  in  the 
same  Circuit  in  the  "VYest  Indies.  A  more  affectionate,  kind-hearted, 
generous,  and  devoted  Missionary  never  crossed  the  sea  than  "William 
Ritchie.  After  twenty-five  years  of  faithful  ministerial  labour,  chiefly  in 
Africa  and  the  West  Indies,  he  died  in  peace  at  Ashby-de-la-Zouch,  on  the 
29th  of  Mar,  1S57.  He  had  come  to  England  a  few  T^-eeks  before,  in  hope 
of  recruiting  his  health,  which  had  been  much  impaired  by  his  long  resi- 
dence in  tropical  chmates.  But  his  Master  saw  fit  to  release  him  from  his 
labour  and  suffering  before  he  could  return  to  his  family  and  Ms  flock  in 
the  West  ludies. 


CHAP.   V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS   AND   MISSIONS.      101 

shores  of  Africa,  on  the  27th  of  March,  1837  ;  and  Mr.  Crosby 
finished  his  useful  course  of  labour  at  Sierra  Leone  on  the  24tli 
of  the  following  month.  The  Eev.  William  Sanders  had  set 
out  in  the  interim  to  strengthen  the  ^Mission.  He  arrived  in 
Free  Town  on  the  4tli  of  December,  1835  ;  and,  having  laboured 
with  success  for  more  than  two  years,  he  w^as  spared  to  return 
to  England  early  in  the  year  1838,  and  to  be  afterwards  usefidly 
employed  in  the  home  w^ork.  The  Eev.  James  and  Mrs. 
Patterson  were  also  sent  out  the  year  following,  and  landed  in 
Sierra  Leone  on  the  10th  of  October,  1836  ;  but  Mr.  Patterson 
was  carried  ofP  by  fever,  on  the  21st  of  May,  1837,  before  he 
had  been  in  the  colony  eight  months ;  and  his  bereaved  wddow 
soon  afterwards  returned  to  England.  This  year  was  remark- 
ably unhealthy  on  the  whole  coast,  the  yellow  fever  being  very 
prevalent.  The  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  lost  by  death,  on 
their  respective  stations,  six  Missionaries  and  two  excellent 
wives  of  Missionaries  in  less  than  nine  months. 

This  unprecedented  mortality  on  the  Western  Coast  of  Africa 
did  not  damp  the  spirit  of  missionary  zeal  which  animated  the 
hearts  of  those  wdio  felt  interested  in  the  welfare  of  the  poor 
Negroes.  Hence  it  appears,  that  before  Mr.  Sanders  left  Sierra 
Leone  he  was  cheered  by  the  arrival  of  the  Rev.  Thomas  and 
Mrs.  Dove,  and  the  Ptev.  Henry  Badger,  on  the  19th  of  Xovember, 
1837.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Dove  had  previously  spent  three  years 
at  the  Gambia,  and  were  considered  in  some  measure  inured 
to  the  climate.  But  notwithstanding  this  advantage,  Mrs.  Dove 
was  cut  down  by  fever  on  the  7th  of  June,  1840.  Mr.  Dove  and 
Mr.  Badger  pursued  their  useful  labours  for  more  than  four 
years,  and  were  spared  to  return  to  England  together  in  the 
month  of  May,  1842,  other  brethren  having  been  sent  out  to 
relieve  them.  This  interval,  however,  had  not  been  a  period 
of  uninterrupted  health  to  the  Mission  families.  The  Eev. 
Thomas  Edw^ards,  who  arrived  at  Sierra  Leone  on  the  1 5th  of 
December,  1838,  had  been  brought  to  the  verge  of  the  grave, 
and  obliged  to  return  to  England  in  June,  1840.  The  Eev. 
Henry  Fleet,  who  arrived  in  Free  Town  on  the  7th  of  January, 
1839,  finished  his  course  on  the  30th  of  May  following ;  having 
lost  his  beloved  wife  by  death  on  board  the  ship  three  days 


102  PART  I. — WESTEEN  AFKICA. 

before  lie  readied  tlie  shores  of  Africa.  The  Rev.  David  Jehu, 
who  had  reached  Sierra  Leone  on  the  23rd  of  December,  1839, 
had  also  been  called  away  by  death  on  the  2nd  of  July,  1840. 
Thus  severely  was  the  j^ilission  afflicted. 

Por  some  time  after  this  eventful  period  the  good  work  at 
Sierra  Leone  was  less  frequently  interrupted  by  the  inroads 
of  death  among  the  Missionaries.  The  Eev.  Messrs.  Easton 
and  Annear  anived  in  January,  1842,  and  both  were  mercifully 
spared  to  return  to  England  for  a  season ;  IMr.  Annear  in  May, 
1843,  and  Mr.  Baston  in  February,  1845.  The  Eev.  William 
A.  and  Mrs.  Quick  and  the  Eev.  Richard  Amos  arrived  at 
Sierra  Leone  in  February,  1843  ;  and  the  entire  party  were 
spared  to  return  home  in  due  season;  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Quick  in 
May,  1844,  and  Mr.  Amos  in  September,  1845.  The  Eev. 
Messrs.  Dove  and  Badger,  with  their  excellent  wives,  returned 
to  Sierra  Leone  in  July,  1843.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Dove  were 
spared  to  return  home  in  May,  1846  ;  Mr.  Dove  having  been 
connected  with  the  Missions  in  Western  Africa  for  nearly 
thirteen  years.  Mrs.  Badger  died  on  the  28th  of  January, 
1844;  but  Mr.  Badger  continued  his  useful  labours  some  time 
longer,  notwithstanding  his  bereavement,  and  was  favoured  to 
return  to  England  in  May,  1848.  On  the  1st  of  December, 
1845,  the  Mission  at  Sierra  Leone  was  reinforced  by  the  arrival 
of  the  Eev.  Thomas  and  Mrs.  Easton,  and  the  Eev.  Messrs. 
Wayte  and  Griffiths,  after  a  perilous  voyage.  Mrs.  Easton 
was  called  aw^ay  by  death  on  the  27th  of  December,  1845  ;  and 
Ml*.  Wayte  finished  his  course  a  few  weeks  afterwards,  on  the 
16th  of  January,  1846.  Mr.  Easton  retmmed  to  England  in 
March,  1847  ;  and  Mr.  Griffiths  followed  him  in  the  month  of 
September  in  the  same  year,  having  been  relieved  by  the  arrival 
of  other  Missionaries.  On  the  7th  of  December,  1846,  the 
Eev.  Eichard  and  Mrs.  Wrench,  and  the  Eev.  John  Lewis, 
arrived  in  Sierra  Leone,  but  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wrench  returned  in 
the  month  of  June,  1847,  on  account  of  the  failure  of  their 
health.  Mr.  Lewis  continued  his  labours  for  some  years  longei-j 
and  was  spared  to  return  to  England  in  May,  1850. 

In  tracing  the  history  of  missionary  operations  in  Sierra 
Leone,  and  in  contemplating  the  painful  afflictions  and  bereave- 


CHAP.   Y. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.      103 

ments  whicli  present  themselves  to  our  view,  it  is  pleasing  to 
find  that  several  devoted  IMissionaries  who  had  laboured  there 
were  willing  to  return  to  the  scene  of  their  former  labours  so 
soon  as  their  health  was  recruited.  We  have  a  striking  instance 
of  this  in  the  case  of  Mr.  Kaston,  who,  with  Mrs.  Kaston,  landed 
in  Free  Town,  for  the  third  time,  on  the  8th  of  December, 
1847,  accompanied  by  Messrs.  Hart  and  Purslow.  Mr.  Purs- 
low's  race  was  soon  run.  He  died  triumphantly  happy  in  God 
on  the  2nd  of  October,  1848 ;  but  the  rest  of  the  party  were 
spared  to  return  to  England  after  fidfilling  their  appointed 
period  of  service  in  Western  Africa.  They  afterwards  sailed  for 
Australia,  where  they  have  since  laboured  with  acceptance  and 
success.  In  1849,  the  Eev.  Walter  P.  Garry,  a  native  of  the 
West  Indies,  having  finished  his  studies  at  Eichmond  College, 
was  sent  out  to  Sierra  Leone,  where  he  laboured  for  three  years, 
and  on  his  return  to  England  received  an  appointment  to  the 
West  Indies,  where  he  has  since  been  usefully  employed  in 
different  islands. 

The  next  Mission  party  sent  out  to  Sierra  Leone  consisted  of 
the  Eev.  James  and  Mrs.  Edney,  Mr.  Gilbert,  and  Mr.  Eletcher, 
towards  the  close  of  1850,  all  of  whom  were  mercifully  spared 
to  labour  successfully  for  several  years ;  and  on  their  return  to 
England  were  appointed  to  West  India  stations.  Eor  a  few 
years  about  this  period  the  sickness  and  mortality  among  the 
Missionaries  were  much  less  than  formerly  ;  and  several  Native 
Ministers  were  raised  up  to  take  a  part  in  the  good  work. 
In  1852,  the  Eev.  Lionel  D.  Eeay  was  appointed  to  Sierra 
Leone;  and  in  1854  he  was  joined  by  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Teal 
and  Dillon,  all  of  whom  were  spared  to  return  to  England,  after 
labouring  in  Africa  for  more  than  three  years.  This  was  not 
the  case,  however,  with  the  Eev.  William  Barrowclough,  who 
died  of  the  country  fever  at  Eree  Town,  on  the  3rd  of  April, 
1856,  three  months  after  his  arrival  on  the  coast. 

On  the  return  to  England  of  the  Eev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Edney 
in  1857,  the  Eev.  John  and  Mrs.  Weatherston  were  appointed 
to  Sierra  Leone.  Mrs.  Weatherston  soon  sank  under  the 
influence  of  the  climate ;  and  her  bereaved  husband  afterwards 
returned  home.     The  Eev.  Messrs.  Champness  and  Coe  were 


104  PAET   I. — "VYESTERIf   AFRICA. 

sent  out  in  the  interim,  towards  the  latter  end  of  1858,  and  were 
both  spared  to  return  to  their  native  country,  where  they  con- 
tinue to  labour  with  acceptance  and  success.  In  1859  the  Eev. 
John  and. Mrs.  Bridgart,  who  had  laboured  successfully  for 
several  years  at  the  Gambia,  proceeded,  by  direction  of  the  Com- 
mittee, from  that  station  to  Sierra  Leone,  where  they  were  soon 
afterwards  joined  by  the  Eev.  James  J.  and  Mrs.  Wray,  and  Mr. 
Hulbert,  from  England,  and  thus  the  Mission  was  once  more 
efficiently  reinforced.  But  this  noble  band  of  labourers  was 
soon  broken  by  sickness  and  death.  Mrs.  Bridgart  and  Mr. 
Hulbert  were  both  removed,  after  short  periods  of  illness,  to 
their  heavenly  rest,  whilst  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Wray  were  obliged  to 
return  to  England  on  account  of  affliction.  Mr.  Bridgart  also 
embarked  for  Europe  after  his  painful  bereavement ;  but  his 
health  and  constitution  were  so  completely  shattered  by  what  he 
had  passed  through,  that  he  sank  before  the  voyage  was  com- 
pleted, and  never  saw  his  native  land  again.  The  number  of 
labourers  was  thus  reduced,  when  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Berry  and 
Blanshard  arrived  in  Sierra  Leone  in  January,  1860,  both  of 
whom  were  spared  to  return  to  England.  These  excellent 
brethren  were  joined  by  the  Eev.  James  W.  Berrie  on  the  10th 
of  November,  1861,  w^ho  returned  home  in  1865  ;  the  Eev. 
Joseph  Hall  having  gone  out  in  the  interim  to  strengthen  the 
Mission.  For  several  years  after  the  removal  of  the  Eev.  James 
Edney  to  the  West  Indies,  the  Sierra  Leone  District  had  been 
left  without  a  General  Superintendent,  when,  in  1864,  the  Eev. 
Benjamin  Tregaskis  was  appointed  to  that  important  office, 
having  nobly  offered  his  services  for  Western  Africa,  after 
labouring  in  the  West  Indies  for  nearly  thirty  years. 

Notwithstanding  the  interruptions  occasioned  by  the  sickness 
and  death  of  so  many  of  the  Missionaries,  it  is  delightful  to 
contemplate  the  rapid  progress  of  the  Sierra  Leone  Mission. 
Several  substantial  chapels  have  been  erected,  both  in  the 
capital  of  the  colony  and  in  the  country  towns  and  villages, 
which  are  crowded  with  attentive  hearers  on  the  Sabbath.  A 
number  of  schools  are  in  active  operation  for  the  training  up  of 
the  rising  generation,  and  a  Theological  Institution  has  been 
established  for  the  education  of  young  men  as  teachers  and 


CHAP.    V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS     A.ND    MISSIONS.        105 

Preacliers,  wliicli  Las  abeady  been  productive  of  much  good.* 
Since  the  Mission  was  commenced  a  large  number  of  Africans, 
chiefly  liberated  slaves,  have  been  brought  to  a  saving 
knowledge  of  the  truth,  many  of  whom  have  died  in  the  faith 
and  hope  of  the  Gospel ;  and  there  are  now  about  six  thousand 
church  members  on  the  respective  stations,  and  upwards  of  four 
thousand  scholars  under  instruction  in  the  Mission  schools, 
■whilst  eight  Missionaries  are  usefully  employed  in  the  work,  five 
of  whom  are  native  African  Ministers,  themselves  the  fruit  of 
missionary  labour.  On  the  occasion  of  the  celebration  of  the 
Jubilee,  the  largest  chapel  was  crowded,  and  the  contributions 
promised  amounted  to  more  than  four  hmidred^pounds. 

CAPE  COAST  SETTLEMENT. 

This  place  is  situated  in  that  part  of  Guinea  called  the  Gold 
Coast,  in  latitude  5**  6'  north,  and  in  longitude  1"  10'  west.  It 
is  chiefly  remarkable  for  its  castle,  an  extensive  and  strong 
fortress,  which  was  erected  by  the  African  Company  for  the 
protection  of  their  trade,  at  an  early  period  of  their  organiza- 
tion. The  castle  stands  upon  an  elevated  point  of  land,  about 
twenty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  and  forms  a  striking 
object,  as  seen  from  the  ships  at  anchor  in  the  roads.  It  is  not 
only  of  sufl[icient  magnitude  to  aflbrd  accommodation  for  the 
troops,  but  it  also  includes  within  its  massive  walls  the  residences 
of  the  Governor  and  other  public  functionaries ;  and  the  whole 

*  Dr.  Pool,  a  Clergyman  of  the  Church  of  England,  bears  the  follow- 
ing testimony  to  the  excellent  character  of  the  ■\A'esleyan  Institution 
for  the  training  of  native  Missionaries  and  teachers  at  King  Tom's 
Point,  Sierra  Leone :— "  It  has  a  good  library,  and  the  pupils  are 
boarded  and  lodged  in  the  Institution.  The  education  is  not  confined  to 
theological  subjects,  but  embraces  general  knowledge.  I  know  that  the 
lectures  delivered  to  these  youug  people  are  extremely  creditable  to  those 
who  have  to  prepare  them ;  and  that  every  care  is  taken  by  the  Tutors  and 
Ministers  to  fulfil  their  duties  efficiently.  No  place  could  have  been  selected 
better  adapted  to  the  pm-pose  of  such  an  estabhshment.  The  situation 
itself, — close  upon  the  sea, — at  a  short  distance,  scarcely  a  mile,  from  the 
town,  is  everything  that  could  be  desired.  The  buildings  afford  ample 
accommodation,  and  are  enclosed  within  extensive  grounds." — Fool  s 
Narrative. 


106  PAET   I. — WESTERN   AFEICA. 

Britisli  population  liave  taken  refuge  in  it  when  attacked  by  an 
invading  foe.  The  town  is  situated  behind  the  fort,  and 
consists  of  a  few  good  stone  buildings,  belonging  to  about  a 
dozen  European  merchants  and  respectable  natives.  The  rest  of 
the  houses  are  built  of  '•'  swish,"  a  composition  of  mud  and  grass, 
which  is  durable  so  long  as  it  is  protected  from  the  rain  by  a  pro- 
jecting roof.  The  population  is  estimated  at  five  thousand,  and 
is  of  that  mixed  character  which  is  so  common  in  all  the  West 
African  settlements. 

The  promontory  on  which  Cape  Coast  Castle  stands  was 
originally  settled  by  the  Portuguese ;  but  the  Dutch  dispossessed 
them  in  a  few  years,  and  took  great  care  to  strengthen  the 
fortifications  as  much  as  possible.  Admiral  Holmes  captured  it 
in  1661,  since  which  time  it  has  remained  in  the  possession  of 
Great  Britain,  having  been  confirmed  to  us  by  the  treaty  of 
Breda.  There  are  several  other  minor  forts  on  the  line  of  coast 
included  within  the  boundaries  of  the  settlement,  which  are  the 
centres  of  a  considerable  trade,  carried  on  by  the  natives,  in 
gold  dust,  ivory,  palm  oil,  dye  woods,  and  ground  nuts,  for 
which  are  given  articles  of  European  manufacture.  In  former 
times,  this  settlement  used  frequently  to  be  at  war  with  the 
neighbouring  tribes ;  and  it  was  in  a  sanguinary  contest  with 
the  Ashantis  that  Sir  Charles  Macarthy  lost  his  life.  A  better 
understanding  had  existed  for  many  years,  when  another  rupture 
took  place  between  the  British  authorities  and  the  King  of 
Ashanti,  in  1864,  which  is  much  to  be  deplored,  as  the  whole 
country  was  beginning  to  feel  the  benign  influence  of 
Christianity. 

Although  the  English  have  been  so  long  dominant  on  this 
part  of  the  coast,  comparatively  little  was  done  till  a  few  years 
ago  for  the  moral  elevation  of  the  natives.  As  early  as  1751, 
a  Clergyman  of  the  Chm'ch  of  England,  in  connexion  with  the 
Society  for  the  Propagation  of  the  Gospel  in  Foreign  Parts,  was 
appointed  to  labour  at  Cape  Coast  Castle.  He  continued  in  the 
capacity  of  Colonial  Chaplain  for  four  years ;  but  very  little 
impression  seems  to  have  been  made  on  the  minds  of  the 
natives.  His  health  failing,  he  returned  to  England,  and  took 
with  him  three  native  boys  for  education.    One  of  these,  named 


CKAP.    V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.        107 

Quaqiie,  was  aftervvards  sent  to  the  University  of  Oxford  ;  and 
being  subsequently  ordained  to  the  sacred  office,  he  was 
appointed  Chaplain  to  Cape  Coast  Castle.  This  post  he  con- 
tinued to  occupy  for  more  than  fifty  years ;  but  it  does  not 
appear  that  he  was  instrumental  in  turning  any  of  his  fellow- 
countrymen  to  the  faith  of  the  Gospel.  Nor  is  this  matter  of 
surprise,  when  it  is  known  that,  on  his  death-bed,  he  had  at 
least  as  much  confidence  in  the  influence  of  the  Fetish  as  in  the 
power  of  Christianity.  Several  English  Chaplains,  who  were 
sent  out  after  the  death  of  Quaque,  successively  died  soon  after 
their  arrival  in  the  settlement,  and  the  country  was  left  in  a 
state  of  fearful  moral  destitution  for  many  years. 

It  was  not  till  the  year  1834  that  the  Wesleyan  Missionary 
Society  commenced  its  labours .  at  Cape  Coast.  The  way  was 
opened  for  this  enterprise  by  a  particular  providence.  A  few 
native  youths  had  learned  to  read  the  Bible  in  the  Government 
school  established  at  that  place,  and  their  minds  became  so  deeply 
impressed  \vith  the  contents  of  the  sacred  volume,  that  they 
formed  themselves  into  a  society,  for  the  more  careful  reading 
and  study  of  the  Holy  Scriptui'es.  As  their  supply  of  the 
precious  book  was  very  limited,  they  agreed  to  send  to  England 
for  a  number  of  copies  of  the  New  Testament.  They  made 
their  case  known  to  Captain  Potter,  the  master  of  a  merchant 
vessel  from  Bristol.  The  heart  of  this  noble-minded  man  was 
so  impressed  in  their  favour,  that  he  not  only  procured  the 
necessary  supply  of  Scriptures,  but  also  called  at  the  Wesleyan 
JMission  House,  in  London,  and  generously  offered  to  take  out  a 
Missionary  to  Cape  Coast  free  of  expense  to  the  Society, 
engaging,  at  the  same  time,  to  bring  him  back  to  England,  if 
the  attempt  to  introduce  the  Gospel  should  prove  a  failure. 

The  Society  gladly  availed  themselves  of  this  benevolent 
offer,  recognising  the  hand  of  God  in  the  whole  affair  ;  and  the 
Kev.  Joseph  Dunwell  was  appointed  to  commence  the  ^Mission 
on  the  Gold  Coast.  He  accordingly  sailed,  with  Captain  Potter, 
towards  the  close  of  the  year,  and  landed  at  Cape  Coast  Castle 
on  the  1st  of  January,  1835.  He  was  received  v»-ith  every 
mark  of  kindness  by  his  Excellency  Governor  M'Lean.  and  with 
feelings  of  rapture  by  the  native  youths  who  were  so  anxious  to 


108  PAET  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

be  instructed  in  tlie  knowledge  of  tlie  sacred  Scriptures.  The 
young  !Missionaiy  opened  his  commission  to  preach  the  Gospel 
in  Africa  under  circumstances  peculiarly  encouraging,  and  was 
soon  favoured  with  e\'ident  tokens  of  the  Divine  presence  and 
blessing,  not  only  in  Cape  Coast  Town,  but  in  other  places  in 
the  settlement  which  he  visited,  to  make  known  the  glad  tidings 
of  salvation.  His  career,  however,  was  soon  terminated.  He 
was  cut  down  by  fever  on  the  24th  of  June,  1835,  in  the  midst 
of  his  usefulness ;  and  thus  rested  from  his  labours,  in  less 
than  six  months  after  his  arrival  in  the  country. 

Some  time  after  the  lamented  death  of  Mr.  Dunwell,  two 
other  [Missionaries  and  their  wives,  the  Bev.  George  0.  and 
Mrs.  Wrigley,  and  the  Eev.  Peter  and  Mrs.  Harrop,  were  sent 
out  to  occupy  the  vacant  station ;  the  party  first  named  arriving 
in  Africa  on  the  15th  of  September,  1836,  and  the  others  on  the 
15th  of  January,  1837.  They  laboured  with  gi'eat  success 
during  the  short  time  they  were  permitted  to  live ;  but  within 
the  short  space  of  fifteen  months  the  whole  of  this  noble  band 
were  numbered  with  the  dead,  having,  like  many  others,  fallen  a 
sacrifice  to  the  climate.  Indeed,  both  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Harrop, 
died  in  three  weeks  after  their  arrival !  They  finished  their 
course,  and  were  called  to  their  reward,  in  the  following  order  : — 
Mrs.  Harrop  on  the  5th  of  Eebruary,  !Mr.  Harrop  and  Mrs. 
Wrigley  on  the  8th  of  Tebruary,  and  Mr.  Wrigley  on  the  16th 
of  November,  1837.  We  may  imagine  the  feelings  of  the  poor 
afflicted  and  bereaved  Missionary,  Mr.  Wrigley,  the  last  sur- 
vivor of  the  four,  when  he  was  called  to  close  the  eyes  of  his 
beloved  wife  and  those  of  his  dear  colleague  in  the  same  hour, 
and  that  within  three  days  of  the  death  of  the  first  victim.  In 
writing  to  the  Committee  shortly  afterwards,  he  says,  "  Life, 
indeed,  in  my  circumstances,  has  no  charms ;  nor  could  I 
support  myself  beneath  the  weight  of  such  a  stroke,  were  it  not 
for  the  hope  of  ere  long  joining  the  glorified  spiiit  of  my 
devoted  partner,  and,  in  the  mean  time,  of  following  up  those 
victories  of  the  cross  of  our  Emmanuel,  which  together  we 
have  been  enabled  to  achieve  to  His  glory  since  we  arrived  on 
these  inhospitable  shores."  This  hope  of  meeting  in  heaven  the 
glorified  spirits  of  the   departed  was  soon  realized;  but  the 


CHAP.   V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.       109 

members  of  the  infant  church  were  left  in  the  wilderness,  as 
sheep  without  a  shepherd. 

Notwithstanding  this  mysterious  and  afflictive  dispensation  of 
Divine  Providence,  the  Society  could  not  reconcile  the  idea  of 
relinquishing  such  an  important  Mission  with  a  sense  of  duty, 
so  long  as  willing  labourers  were  found  to  occupy  the  post  of 
danger ;  and  towards  the  close  of  the  same  year  the  Eev.  T. 
B.  and  Mrs.  Preeman  were  sent  out  to  supply  the  vacant 
station.  They  arrived  at  Cape  Coast  on  the  3rd  of  Januaiy, 
1838  ;  and  on  the  20th  of  February  following  Mrs.  Preeman 
was  cut  down  by  fever,  after  a  few  hours'  illness.  On  the  13th 
of  January,  18-iO,  the  Eev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Mycock  and  Mr. 
Brooking  arrived  at  Cape  Coast  to  reinforce  the  Mission,  and  to 
enable  Mr.  Ereeman  to  visit  England.  This  party  were  all 
mercifidly  spared  to  return  home,  after  fulfilling  different  periods 
of  service  in  Africa.  Early  in  the  year  1841,  Mr.  Ereeman 
with  Mrs.  Ereeman  (second)  returned  to  the  Gold  Coast,  accom- 
panied by  ]Mi'.  and  Mrs.  Hesk,  ]\Ii'.  and  Mrs.  Shipman,  and 
Messrs.  Watson,  Thackwray,  and  Walden ;  but  j\Ii's.  Ereeman 
died  on  the  25  th  of  August  following,  and  ]\Ii*s.  Hesk  was 
called  to  her  reward  three  days  afterwards.  Two  of  the 
brethren  belonging  to  this  party  were  also  called  to  rest  from 
their  labours  soon  after  their  arrival ;  Mr.  Thackwray  on  the  4th 
of  May,  and  Mr.  Walden  on  the  29th  of  July.  Thus  four  out 
of  the  nine  died  within  seven  months  after  the  date  of  their 
landing  on  the  shores  of  Africa  ;  and  the  fifth,  ]\Ir.  Shipman, 
finished  his  course  on  the  22nd  of  Eebruary,  1843,  after 
labouring  with  success  for  two  years.  Mr.  Hesk  and  Mrs. 
Shipman  retui-ned  to  England  almost  immediately  after  their 
respective  bereavements ;  and  Mr.  Watson  was  also  spared  to 
return  home,  after  fulfilling  his  appointed  period  of  service  in 
Western  Africa.  In  January,  1842,  the  Eev.  William  Allen 
arrived  at  Cape  Coast,  and  was  spared  to  retui-n  to  England, 
after  labouring  efficiently  for  two  years.  This  was  not  the  case, 
however,  with  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Wyatt  and  Eowlands,  who 
arrived  a  few  weeks  afterwards.  Mr.  Wyatt  died  on  the  6th  of 
April,  when  he  had  only  been  about  three  months  in  the 
country;  and  Mr.  Eowlands  was  called  away  on  the  10th  of 


110  PART   I. — WESTERN   AFRICA. 

July,  after  a  residence  of  about  six  months.  On  the  23rd 
of  January,  1S43,  the  Eev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Watkins,  and  the 
Bev.  Mr.  Chapman,  landed  at  Cape  Coast,  to  strengthen  the 
Mission ;  but  Mrs.  Watkins  only  lived  thirty-nine  days  after  her 
arrival,  being  called  away  on  the  1st  of  March,  after  a  short  but 
painful  illness.  About  thirteen  months  afterwards  she  was 
followed  to  a  better  world  by  her  beloved  husband,  who  finished 
his  earthly  course  on  the  7th  of  February,  184-i.  Mr.  Chapman 
■was  spared  to  return  to  England,  and  was  afterwards  usefully 
employed  as  a  Missionary  in  South  Africa. 

The  next  Missionary  party  sent  out  to  the  Gold  Coast  con- 
sisted of  the  Eev.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Annear,  who  had  previously 
laboured  at  Sierra  Leone,  and  the  Eev.-  ^lessrs.  Martin  and 
Greaves.  They  arrived  on  the  12th  of  December,  1843.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Annear  and  Mr.  Martin  were  spared  to  return  to 
England  ;  but  Mr.  Greaves  fell  a  sacrifice  to  the  climate,  on  the 
14th  of  July,  1844,  about  seven  months  after  his  arrival.  On 
the  20th  of  March,  1844,  the  Eev.  E.  Brooking  landed  at  Cape 
Coast  Castle,  for  the  second  time,  accompanied  by  Mrs. 
Brooking.  They  were  both  spared  to  return  to  England,  and 
were  afterwards  usefully  employed  in  Canada  and  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Territories. 

On  the  28rd  of  June,  1S45,  the  Eev.  T.  B.Ereeman  returned 
to  Cape  Coast,  for  the  third  time,  accompanied  by  the  Eev. 
Henry  Wharton,  a  native  of  the  West  Indies,  and  himself 
the  fruit  of  missionary  toil,  who  still  continues  to  labour 
efficiently  in  Western  Africa.*     On  the  30th  of  December,  in 

*  The  writer  would  here  record  bis  gratitude  to  almighty  God  for  His 
mercy  aud  goodness  in  the  preservation  of  this  zealous  Missionary  for  so 
many  years.  He  had  the  honour  of  directing  Mr.  Vfharton's  studies  in 
early  life,  aud  of  recommending  him  for  the  Christian  ministry ;  and  when 
fully  engaged  in  the  work,  Mr.  Wharton  was  his  colleague  on  a  West  India 
station  for  two  years,  up  to  the  time  of  his  nobly  offering  himself  for 
Western  Africa.  From  this  period,  he  had  faithfully  laboured  on  the  Gold 
Coast  for  nineteen  years,  without  ever  being  absent  from  his  post  of  duty, 
when  in  1864  he  paid  a  pleasant  visit  to  England,  the  incidents  of  which  will 
long  be  remembered.  To  show  the  character  of  the  work  in  which  Mr. 
Wharton  was  engaged  immediately  on  his  arrival  in  Africa,  we  here  quote  a 
sentence  or  two  from  a  letter  received  from  him,  dated  Kumasi,  capital  of 


CHAP.    V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.        Ill 

the  same  year,  the  Eev.  TVilliam  Allen  arrived  at  Cape  Coast, 
for  the  second  time,  accompanied  by  Mrs.  Allen,  and  the  Eev. 
Messrs.  Findlay  and  Addison.  They  were  spared  to  return  to 
England,  after  labouring  efficiently  for  two  or  three  years,  with 
the  exception  of  !Mr.  Findlay.  This  pious  young  Missionaiy 
fell  a  sacrifice  to  the  climate  on  the  10th  of  March,  1846,  about 
eight  weeks  after  his  arrival.  On  the  7th  of  January,  1847, 
the  Rev.  Messrs.  Thomas,  Harrop,  and  Hillard  arrived  at  Cape 
Coast,  and  were  all  spared  to  return  to  England,  after  labouring 
successfully  for  two  and  three  years  respectively.  In  the  month 
of  March,  1849,  the  Rev.  F.  Hart  arrived  at  Cape  Coast,  and 
towards  the  close  of  the  year  1850  he  was  followed  by  the  Rev. 
Messrs.  Gardener  and  Richards.  Messrs.  Hart  and  Richards 
were  obliged  to  return  to  England  at  an  early  period,  on  account 
of  the  failure  of  their  health ;  but  ^Mr.  Gardener  continued  to 
labour  on  different  stations   in  the  Gold  Coast  District,  with 

Ashauti,  August  1st,  1846  : — "  On  the  occasion  of  my  being  presented  to 
the  King,  there  could  not  have  been  an  assemblage  of  less  than  9,000  or 
10,000  souls,  all  immersed  in  the  grossest  ignorance  and  superstition, 
hterally  '  without  God  and  without  hope  in  the  world.'  One  incident  1 
must  not  omit  to  mention ;  and  being  the  first  of  the  kind  I  had  ever 
witnessed,  I  shall  not  easily  forget  it.  "Whilst  waiting  to  pay  my  respects 
to  the  King  and  his  Councillors,  two  men,  about  to  be  sacrificed,  were 
marched  along  near  where  I  sat.  They  were  in  a  state  of  complete  nudity. 
Their  arms  were  closely  tied  behind  their  backs.  Long  spear-knives  were 
thrust  through  their  cheeks,  from  which  the  blood  flowed  copiously,  and 
curdled  on  their  breasts.  The  moans  of  one  of  the  victims  in  particular 
were  heart-rending.  Never  till  that  moment  did  I  fuUy  realise  my  position 
as  a  Missionary  in  miserable,  degraded,  pitiless  Africa.  Eight  human  beings 
fell  under  the  sacrificial  knife,  in  honour  of  the  deceased  Queen  of  Jabin,  in 
Kumasi  alone.  The  number  slaughtered  in  Jabin  itself  must  have  been 
immense.  I  have  since  seen  a  Captain  from  there,  who  was  present  at  the 
custom,  and  who  informed  me  that  upwards  of  300  were  sacrificed  in 
that  town.  Human  sacrifices  are  almost  of  daily  occurrence  in  Kumasi.  I 
have  witnessed  several  decapitations  already,  and  I  have  seen  as  many  as 
twelve  headless  human  bodies  scattered  along  the  public  streets.  The 
constantly  witnessing  such  cold-blooded  mm'ders  has  almost  paralysed  my 
efforts  ;  and  I  am  sometimes  led  to  think  that  human  sacrifices  will  never  be 
done  away  in  Kumasi.  Then,  again,  my  gloomy  thoughts  are  dispelled, 
when  I  remember  what  has  been  done  in  other  lands  by  the  regenerating 
power  of  the  Gospel." 


112  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

great  acceptance  and  efficiency,  for  the  long  term  of  nine  years  ; 
and  since  his  return  to  England  he  has  been  usefully  employed 
in  the  home  work. 

Several  Native  Ministers  having  been  raised  up  to  take  a 
part  in  the  good  work,  some  years  now  elapsed  before  any  more 
Missionaries  were  sent  from  England.  Towards  the  close  of 
1856,  however,  the  Eev.  William  and  Mrs.  West,  w^ho  had  long 
and  usefully  laboured  in  the  West  Indies,  proceeded  to  Cape 
Coast,  where  they  arrived  on  the  18th  of  November.  The 
Mission  was  further  strengthened,  in  the  following  year,  by  the 
arrival  of  the  Eev.  John  A.  Gurney  from  the  Gambia.  In  the  in- 
terim, the  circumstances  of  the  Cape  Coast  District  appearing  to 
require  such  a  measure,  the  Committee  sent  out  the  Eev.  Daniel 
W^est  as  a  special  deputation  to  examine  into  the  state  of  the 
work ;  and,  had  he  lived  to  report,  in  person,  the  result  of  his 
observations,  the  benefit  to  the  future  operations  of  the  Mis- 
sions would,  no  doubt,  have  been  considerable;  but,  in  the 
order  of  Divine  Providence,  he  was  not  permitted  to  see  his 
native  land  again.  He  died  at  the  Gambia,  where  he  had 
called  on  his  homeward  passage,  on  the  24th  of  Eebruary,  1857. 

The  next  Missionary  sent  out  to  the  Cape  Coast  w^as  the 
Eev.  William  H.  Mil  ward  in  1859  ;  but  he  w^as  soon  obliged  to 
return  on  account  of  the  failure  of  his  health.  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
West,  and  Mr.  Gurney,  also  returned  this  year,  having  more 
than  completed  the  term  of  their  appointment.  After  these 
departures,  there  was  not  one  European  Missionary  remaining 
in  the  District.  The  labourers  were  generally  natives  of 
Western  Africa,  with  Mr.  Vvliarton,  a  native  of  the  West  Indies, 
at  their  head.  In  1860,  however,  the  Eev.  Thomas  and  Mrs. 
Champness,  who  had  previously  laboured  at  Sierra  Leone,  and 
the  Eev.  Messrs.  Morris  and  Sharp,  were  sent  out  to  the  Gold 
Coast  District,  where  they  arrived  in  the  month  of  December ; 
but  Mr.  Morris  was  soon  obliged  to  return  home,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  failure  of  his  health ;  and  he  was  succeeded  by 
the  Eev.  Alfred  Taylor,  who  arrived  at  Cape  Coast  on  the  ISth 
of  Januar}^  1862,  accompanied  by  the  Eev.  W.  West,  who  now 
went  out  to  Western  Africa,  as  General  Superintendent,  for  the 
second  time.     In  1863,  the  Gold  Coast  Mission  was  reinforced 


CHAP.    Y. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.        113 

by  the  appointment  of  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Davis,  Gardiner,  and 
Sykes ;  the  "Rev.  Mr.  Champness  having  been  obliged  to  return 
to  Enghand,  in  consequence  of  the  faihire  of  his  health,  and  the 
loss  of  his  beloved  wife  at  Abbeokuta.  The  number  of  Mis- 
sionaries necessary  for  the  efficient  working  of  this  extensive 
District  having  been  reduced  by  the  return  to  England  of  the 
Rev,  Messrs.  Gardiner,  Taylor,  and  Sharp,  the  Rev.  Messrs. 
Richmond,  Robinson,  and  Cuthbert  were  sent  out  in  1864.;  but 
Mr.  Cuthbert  was  cut  down  by  fever  at  Lagos,  a  few  weeks 
after  his  arrival.  The  Mission  also  suffered  a  serious  loss,  this 
year,  in  the  death  of  the  Rev.  Edward  Bickersteth,  an  excellent 
and  useful  Native  Minister. 

Amid  the  various  changes  and  privations  through  which  the 
Missions  on  the  Gold  Coast  and  in  other  parts  of  Guinea  have 
.had  to  pass,  they  have  been  favoured  l)y  a  measure  of  prosperity 
w-hich  is  really  astonishing.  The  work  has  not  only  taken  deep 
root  in  Cape  Coast  Town ;  but  it  has  also  been  extended  to 
Dix  Cove,  Elmina,  Anamabu,  Domonasi,  James  Town,  (Akrah,) 
AYinnibah,  Lagos,  Badagry,  Whydah,  Abbeokuta,  and  other 
places  ;  including  Kuraasi,  the  blood-stained  capital  of  Ashanti. 
In  these  places  Christian  congregations  have  been  gathered, 
Mission  schools  established,  and  a  large  amount  of  real  spiritual 
good  effected.  It  is  pleasing  to  record  that  in  the  Gold  Coast 
District  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  has  e'lghleen  chapels, 
fourteen  Missionaries,  {nine  of  wlioni  are  natives  of  Africa,) 
nearly  three  thousand  church  members,  and  about  fifteen  hundred 
children  in  the  Mission  schools,  whilst  upwards  of  eight  thousand 
natives  have  been  brought  under  the  sound  of  the  Gospel. 

THE   GAMBIA. 

Although  the  navigation  of  the  river  Gambia  had  been  left, 
for  many  years,  almost  entirely  to  the  English,  it  was  not  till 
after  the  restoration  of  the  Senegal  and  Goree  to  the  French  in 
1816,  that  a  permanent  settlement  was  form.ed  for  the  encou- 
ragement of  legitimate  commerce,  and  the  suppression  of  the 
slave  trade.  The  place  selected  for  this  purpose  was  an  island 
called  St.  Mary's,  four  miles  long,  and  one  broad,  situated 
about  ten  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  separated  from 

I 


114  PART  I. — WESTEEN  AFRICA. 

the  main  land  towards  the  south  by  a  narrow  creek  called  the 
"Oyster  Creek."  The  island  is  generally  low  and  swampy; 
but  it  was  considered  the  most  eligible  place  for  a  settlement 
from  its  commanding  position,  and  the  excellent  anchorage 
which  the  river  aftcrds,  at  this  point,  for  vessels  of  almost  any 
burden.  The  principal  town  is  Bathurst,  which  stands  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  island,  facing  the  main  branch  of  the  river, 
in  latitude  13°  north,  and  longitude  17°  west.  It  contains  a 
number  of  excellent  houses,  among  which  may  be  noted  the 
Government  House,  the  Wesleyan  Mission-House  and  chapel, 
the  barracks,  the  hospital,  and  the  prison.  The  town  is  laid 
out  with  wide  streets  at  right  angles ;  and  the  one  which  runs 
parallel  with  the  river  contains  a  number  of  excellent  stone 
buildings,  with  verandahs  in  front,  which  not  only  afford  a  most 
delightful  prospect  to  the  inhabitants,  but  give  to  the  place 
a  beautiful  appearance  when  viewed  from  the  shipping  in 
the  harbour.  The  back  part  of  the  town  is  occupied  chiefly* 
with  native  huts,  formed  of  wattled  cane,  thatched  with  long 
grass,  and  neatly  plastered  and  whitewashed.  Soldiers'  Town, 
Melville  Town,  Goderich  Town,  Jollar  Town,  and  Moka  Town, 
are  mere  villages  in  different  parts  of  the  island.  The  popu- 
lation of  the  colony  may  be  estimated  at  about  fifty  Europeans, 
and  three  thousand  natives  ;  of  whom  a  more  particular  account 
will  afterwards  be  given. 

No  provision  had  been  made  for  the  moral  and  religious 
instruction  of  the  colonists,  or  of  the  native  tribes  of  this  part 
of  Africa,  when  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  commenced  its 
labours  in  the  year  1821.  The  first  Missionary  sent  out  was 
the  Eev.  John  Morgan,  who  arrived  at  St.  Mary's  on  the  8tli 
of  February.  He  was  soon  afterwards  joined  by  the  Rev.  John 
Baker  from  Sierra  Leone,  when  the  two  devoted  brethren  began 
to  look  about  for  the  most  eligible  site  for  a  Mission  station. 
Their  object  being  chiefly  to  benefit  the  surrounding  native 
tribes,  they  were  anxious,  if  possible,  to  establish  themselves  on 
the  main  land ;  and  Tentabar  having  been  recommended  as  a 
suitable  place,  Mr.  Morgan  went  there  alone  on  a  visit  of 
observation,  as  Mr.  Baker  was  suffering  from  indisposition. 
The  King  of  that  part  of  the  country  readily  granted  permission 


CHAP.    V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.       115 

for  the  Missionaries  to  settle  on  liis  land,  but  signified  his 
inability  to  afford  them  protection  in  case  they  should  be 
molested  by  the  people ;  so  the  idea  of  going  there  was 
relinquished.  On  the  partial  recovery  of  INIr.  Baktr,  the 
Missionaries  went  together  on  a  visit  to  the  King  of  Combo, 
on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Gambia.  Having  offered  their 
presents,  they  were  graciously  received  by  his  sable  Mcijesty, 
who  signified  his  consent  for  the  strangers  to  settle  in  any  part 
of  the  country  which  they  might  select.  They  ultimately  fixed 
upon  a  place  called  Mandanaree,  about  eight  miles  from  St. 
Mary's,  and  commenced,  soon  afterwards,  to  fell  the  trees,  and 
to  build  a  house  to  live  in,  which  they  completed  in  a  few 
weeks,  with  the  help  of  the  natives.  During  the  erection  and 
subsequently,  the  Missionaries  alternately  visited  St.  Mary's 
once  a  week  to  preach  to  the  people,  and  sometimes  they  went 
together.  On  the  14th  of  June,  their  temporary  dwelling 
house  was  so  far  advanced  as  to  admit  of  their  occupying  it, 
which  they  found  a  great  relief,  having  hitherto  lodged  with  a 
Negro  in  his  hut  amid  many  discomforts.  Although  consider- 
ably elevated,  the  place  selected  for  a  Mission  station  at  Man. 
danaree  was  far  from  healthy;  and  wlien  the  rainy  season 
com'menced,  both  the  Missionaries  were  prostrated  with  fever, 
and  were  obliged  to  be  removed  to  St.  Mar)''s,  where  they  could 
have  medical  aid.  Before  the  end  of  the  year,  however,  ^Ir. 
Baker  proceeded  to  the  West  Indies,  by  direction  of  the  Com- 
mittee, his  health  being  so  impaired,  by  his  long-continued 
kbours  on  the  coast  of  Africa,  as  to  require  a  change. 

Mr.  Morgan  had  recovered  from  his  first  attack  of  fever,  and 
was  proceeding  in  his  beloved  work,  when  he  had  the  pleasure 
of  receiving  the  Kev.  Mr.  Bell  on  the  28th  of  January,  1822, 
who  had  been  sent  from  England  to  his  assistance.  This 
devoted  young  Missionary  appeared  well  adapted  for  the  enter- 
prise in  which  he  had  embarked  ;  but  he  was  soon  called  away 
to  a  better  country.  He  died  of  fever  at  St.  Mary's,  on  the 
15th  of  March,  forty-six  days  after  his  arrival.  Mr.  Morgan 
was  thus  left  once  more  alone;  and  the  brethren  at  Sierra 
Leone,  being  aware  of  his  circumstances,  sent  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Lane  to  his  assistance.     This  arrangement,  though  well-meant, 

I  2 


116  PAKT    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

was  not  of  mucli  advantage  to  the  Gambia,  as  the  young  Mis- 
sionary was  soon  disabled  from  active  duty  by  affliction,  and 
obliged  to  return  to  Sierra  Leone,  where  he  soon  afterwards 
rested  from  his  labour.  On  hearing  of  the  loss  which  the 
Mission  had  sustained,  the  Committee  sent  out  the  Rev.  Robert 
and  Mrs  Hawkins,  who  arrived  at  St.  Mary's  on  the  14th  of 
April,  1824.  This  valuable  accession  to  the  strength  of  the 
Mission  enabled  Mr.  Morgan  to  undertake  a  voyage  to  Macar- 
thy's  Island,  about  three  hundred  miles  up  the  Gambia,  Avith  a 
view  to  commence  a  Mission  there.  He  had  visited  this  place 
the  year  before,  in  company  with  Major  Grant,  the  Governor, 
when  it  was  selected  as  a  suitable  locality  for  a  settlement ;  and 
he  had  ever  since  cherished  the  hope  of  planting  the  standard 
of  the  cross  on  that  advanced  post  in  the  interior.  The  enter- 
prising Missionary  embarked  accordingly ;  and  reached  Macar- 
thy's  Island  on  the  28th  of  April :  but  he  found  the  difficulties 
so  numerous,  the  heat  so  intense,  and  his  state  of  health  so 
feeble,  that  he  was  obliged  to  return  to  St.  Mary's  without 
having  organized  a  Mission  station,  which  he  so  much  desired. 
In  the  early  part  of  1825,  Mr.  Morgan  was  under  the  necessity 
of  returning  to  England,  with  his  health  and  constitution  much 
impaired,  having  diligently  and  successfully  laboured  at  the 
Gambia  upwards  of  four  j^ears. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hawkins  had  the  seasoning  fever  very  severely  ; 
but  were  mercifully  restored  to  a  moderate  state  of  health  in  a 
short  time,  and  proceeded  in  their  beloved  work  with  evident 
tokens  of  the  Divine  presence  and  blessing.  The  attempt  to 
establish  a  station  at  Mandanaree  had  now  been  entirely 
relinquished,  and  the  labours  of  the  Missionary  were  confined 
to  St.  Mary's,  where  there  was  abundance  of  w^ork,  and  a  much 
better  prospect  of  success.  The  first  Missionaries  had  not 
preached  many  times  in  Bathurst,  when  they  were  encouraged 
by  witnessing  two  or  three  clear  instances  of  conversion.  These 
first-fruits,  with  other  inquirers,  were  gathered  into  a  class, 
for  further  instruction ;  and  a  small  Native  Christian  Church 
was  formed  at  an  early  period,  which  was  constantly  receiving 
accessions  to  its  number  of  members.  A  Mission  school  had 
also  been  established ;  and  now  the  girls  as  well  as  the  female 
members  of  society  had  the  advantage  of  the  oversight  and 


CHAP.    V. — ENGLISH    SETTLEMENTS    AND    MISSIONS.      117 

care  of  the  Missionary's  excellent  wife.  The  religious  services 
were  at  first  conducted  in  the  open  air,  and  afterwards  in  a 
hired  house;  but  now  a  substantial  stone  building  had  been 
erected,  which  answered  the  double  purpose  of  chapel  and 
school-roora,  with  arrangements  also  for  a  Mission-House,  the 
Missionary's  residence  being  on  the  second  floor,  and  the 
meeting-house  in  the  basement  story.  Thus  was  the  Mission 
fairly  established  on  a  permanent  basis;  and  the  good  work 
progressed  in  a  very  pleasing  manner. 

In  1826  the  Kev.  Samuel  and  Mrs.  Dawson  were  sent  out 
from  England,  to  relieve  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hawkins,  wdio  had  fulfilled 
the  term  of  their  appointment ;  but  as  no  opportunity  off"ered  for 
the  Gambia  direct,  they  embarked  for  Sierra  Leone.  Whilst 
they  were  detained  in  that  colony,  they  had  their  seasoning 
fever,  under  which  Mrs.  Dawson  sank,  as  already  stated ;  and 
her  bereaved  husband,  on  his  recovery,  had  to  proceed  to  his 
appointment  at  the  Gambia  alone,  where  he  only  arrived  on  the 
12th  of  February  in  the  following  year.  In  the  month  of  May 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hawkins  embarked  for  England,  where  they 
arrived  in  safety,  after  a  short  and  pleasant  passage ;  and  were 
subsequently  appointed  to  the  West  Indies,  where  they  laboured 
long  and  successfully  in  the  work  of  the  Lord. 

The  next  Missionary  to  the  Gambia  was  the  Rev.  Eichard 
Marshall,  who,  with  Mrs.  Marshall,  arrived  at  St.  Mary's  on 
the  18th  of  November,  1828;  and  Mr.  Dawson,  being  thus 
relieved,  was  spared  to  return  to  England,  having  fulfilled  his 
appointed  period  of  service  in  Western  Africa.  The  following 
rainy  season  was  one  of  peculiar  sickness  and  mortality  all 
along  the  coast;  but  the  newly  arrived  Missionary  and  his 
wife  at  the  Gambia  passed  through  their  seasoning  fever  as 
well  as  they  could  have  expected,  having  taken  a  voyage  to 
Goree  for  a  change  of  air  in  the  mean  time,  and  were  thus 
spared  to  prosecute  their  work  with  comfort  and  success.  This 
was  not  tlie  case,  however,  the  following  year.  Mr.  Marshall 
was  suddenly  cut  down  by  malignant  fever,  after  five  days' 
illness,  on  the  19th  of  August,  1830.*     Two  days  after  her 

*  The  resuler  will  find  an  interesting  memoir  of  the  Rev.  Richard  Marshall, 
by  the  Rev.  J.  E.  Coulson,  in  the  Wesleyan  Methodist  Magazine,  for  1833, 
page  1, 


118  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

painful  bereavement  Mrs.  Marshall  embarked  for  England, 
with  her  infant  son,  and  an  African  nurse.  She  arrived  in 
Bristol  on  the  1st  of  October,  in  a  state  of  great  mental  and 
bodily  suffering ;  and,  being  seized  with  convulsions,  she  expired 
about  forty-eight  hours  after  she  landed,  and  before  she  had  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  any  of  her  friends. 

It  was  under  these  painful  and  afflictive  circumstances  that 
the  writer  and  his  dear  partner  were  appointed  to  St.  Mary's 
on  the  river  Gambia,  as  the  successors  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Marshall,  who  were  so  mysteriously  called  to  a  better  world, 
in  the  midst  of  their  usefulness.  In  the  preceding  pages  we 
have  been  obliged  to  confine  ourselves  to  a  mere  outline  of  the 
respective  stations  which  have  passed  under  review ;  but  in  the 
following  chapters  we  propose  to  give  a  personal  narrative  of 
missionary  labour  at  the  river  Gambia,  detailing  such  facts  and 
incidents  as  appear  likely  to  give  the  reader  a  correct  idea  of 
the  character  of  our  work  in  Western  Africa. 


CHAPTER  YL 

COMMENCEMENT  OF  PEESONAL  LiBOUES. 

The  Providence  of  God — Missionary  Orphan  Boy — Appointment  lo  Africa 
— Farewell  to  England — Reception  by  the  Natives — Interview  with 
the  Governor — First  Sabbath — Arrangement  of  Labour — Preaching — 
Schools — Juvenile  Prayer -Meeting — Marriage  Ceremonies — Birth  of 
Children — Puneral  Rites — Burial  Ground — Mohammedan  Training — 
Kative  Labourers — John  Cupidon — Pierre  SaUah. 

The  doctrine  of  a  particular  providence  is  frequently  recog- 
nised by  the  humble  Christian,  in  his  own  experience ;  and, 
speaking  of  the  Almighty,  an  inspired  writer  has  said,  "  In  all 
thy  ways  acknowledge  Him,  and  He  shall  direct  thy  paths." 
(Prov.  iii.  B.)  We  sometimes  find,  that  the  most  important 
events  of  our  lives  depend  upon  incidents  and  circumstances 
which  in  themselves  appear  trifling  and  insignificant.     This  I 


CHAP    VI. — COMxMENCEMENT    OF    PERSONAL    LABOURS.    119 

have  frequently  observed,  and  regard  it  as  very  important  for 
all,  and  especially  for  young  persons,  on  commencing  the 
journey  of  life,  that  they  should  watch  for  the  "  moving  of  the 
cloud  "  before  they  advance,  and  seek  for  Divine  direction,  by 
earnest  prayer,  in  every  step  they  take.  On  reviewing  the  past, 
and  retracing  all  the  way  in  which  the  Lord  has  led  me  these 
many  years  in  the  wilderness,  I  cannot  but  regard  my  appoint- 
ment to  labour  as  a  Christian  Missionary  among  the  sable  sons 
of  Ham,  as  peculiarly  providential. 

Having  been  brought  to  a  knowledge  of  the  truth  in  early 
life,  chiefly  through  the  instrumentality  of  pious  parents,  and 
Sabbath-school  instruction,  I  soon  felt  it  upon  my  heart  to 
proclaim  the  Gospel  of  Christ  to  my  perishing  fellow  men,  as 
the  Lord  enabled  me.  Eor  some  time  I  was  employed  as  a 
Local  Preacher  in  the  neighbourhood  of  my  native  place  ;  and, 
from  the  success  which  attended  these  humble  efforts,  and  the 
longing  desire  which  I  felt  to  promote  the  interests  of  the 
Redeemer's  kingdom,  I  was  induced  to  believe  that  the  Lord 
had  a  still  greater  work  for  me  to  do  in  His  vineyard.  At 
length  the  way  seemed  to  open;  and,  urged  by  my  spiritual 
advisers,  and  constrained  by  "  the  love  of  Christ,"  I  was  led 
to  offer  myself  as  a  candidate  for  the  Christian  ministry,  having 
for  some  time  previously  pursued  a  course  of  study,  with  a 
view  to  a  more  full  preparation  for  the  sacred  office;  the 
responsibilities  of  which,  even  in  prospect,  pressed  heavily  upon 
my  spirits.  After  passing  the  usual  examinations,  I  was 
cordially  received  as  a  probationer  for  the  Christian  ministry 
by  the  Wesleyan  Conference  of  1830.  Believing,  however, 
that  I  was  more  particularly  called  to  preach  the  Gospel  in 
heathen  lands,  I  gave  expression  to  this  feeling  at  the  District 
Meeting,  and  was  soon  afterwards  directed  to  proceed  to  London 
for  a  further  examination  before  the  Missionary  Committee, 
with  reference  to  adaptation  to  the  foreign  department  of  the 
work.  Here  I  met  with  several  young  men  who  had  come  up 
to  the  great  metropolis  for  the  same  purpose,  and  with  whom 
I  formed  an  agreeable  acquaintance,  and  whose  names  are  still 
dear  to  me,  although  I  may  never  be  permitted  to  meet  them 
again  in  this  world.     Having,  with  several  others,  been  fully 


130  PAllT    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

accepted  for  foreign  missionary  service,  we  were  pursuing  our 
studies  under  the  direction  of  the  celebrated  Eichard  Watson, 
and  prayerfully  awaiting  our  appointments,  when  circumstances 
occurred  which  soon  fixed  the  sphere  of  my  future  labours. 

It  was  on  a  cold  morning  in  the  month  of  October,  1830,  that 
a  Negro  girl  presented  herself  at  the  door  of  the  old  Mission- 
House  in  Hatton  Garden,  carrying  in  her  arms  a  poor  sickly- 
looking  white  child.  This  little  inftmt  was  the  orphan  son  of 
the  late  Eev.  Eichard  Marshall,  who  had  died  at  the  river 
Gambia,  in  Western  Africa,  of  malignant  fever,  on  the  19  th  of 
August  in  the  same  year,  as  stated  in  the  last  chapter.  Mrs. 
Marshall  embraced  the  first  opportunity  which  presented  itself, 
and  embarked  for  England  two  days  after  the  funeral  of  her 
dear  husband,  bringing  with  her  their  infant  son,  and  the 
African  girl  Sally,  to  take  care  of  thera  during  the  passage. 
When  they  arrived  in  Bristol,  Mrs.  Marshall  found  herself  in  a 
state  of  great  bodily  weakness,  as  well  as  extreme  mental  suffer- 
ing ;  and  being  otherwise  in  a  peculiar  condition,  she  was  anxious 
to  proceed  at  once  to  her  friends  at  Newcastle-upon-Tyne.  But, 
in  the  order  of  Divine  Providence,  this  was  denied  her.  She 
became  worse,  being  seized  with  convulsions ;  all  hope  of  life 
now  vanished,  and  she  expired,  about  forty-eight  hours  after  she 
had  landed  on  the  shores  of  her  native  country,  leaving  her 
helpless  orphan  and  his  African  nurse  as  "  strangers  in  a  strange 
land."  Sally  had  been  faithful  to  her  precious  charge  ;  and 
having  proceeded  to  London  immediately  after  the  funeral  of 
her  beloved  mistress,  they  both  now  appeared  before  us.* 

This  little  incident  was  peculiarly  affecting  to  the  missionary 
candidates,  who  w^ere  expecting  soon  to  leave  their  native  land. 
We  all  felt  deeply  interested  in  the  Missionary's  orphan  boy, 
and  we  were  delighted  to  observe  the  mutual  attachment  which 
subsisted  between  him  and  his  African  nurse.  Sally's  love  for 
little  Eichard  seemed  excessive  ;  and  whilst  she  carefully  folded 
him  in  her  sable  arms,  and  bedewed  him  with  her  tears,  she 
would  tell  of  her  country,  and  of  her  master  and  mistress,  with 

*  The  pious  Negro  girl  Sally  returned  to  Africa,  after  she  had  takea  little 
Richard  to  the  friends  of  his  parents  in  Newcastle-upon-Tyne  ;  and  she  died 
happy  in  God  at  St.  Mary's,  in  the  year  1836. 


CHAP.    VI.  —  COMMENCEMENT    OF    PERSONAL    LABOURS.     121 

an  energy  and  pathos  that  were  truly  affecting,  and  especially  so 
to  a  number  of  ardent  young  men  in  our  circumstances. 

It  was  stated  by  the  ^lissionary  Committee  that  a  Missionary 
was  required  immediately  to  succeed  the  late  Mr.  Marshall  at 
the  Gambia  station  ;  and  many  inquiries  were  made  among  the 
young  men  as  to  who  felt  disposed  to  engage  in  such  a 
perilous  enterprise.  In  consequence  of  the  great .  mortality 
among  the  Missionaries  in  Western  Africa  for  several  years  past, 
the  Society  had  resolved  in  future  to  send  none  but  those  who 
voluntarily  offered  their  services  for  that  arduous  and  dangerous 
sphere  of  labour.  I  had.  felt  disposed  from  the  first  to  offer 
myself  for  Western  Africa ;  but  still  more  so  when  the  General 
Secretaries  directed  my  attention  to  that  department  of  tlie 
Mission  field,  from  an  impression  that  my  type  of  constitution 
was  well  adapted  for  the  climate.  After  sincere  prayer  to 
Almighty  God  for  Divine  direction,  and  consulting  with  my 
friends  on  the  subject,  I  felt  it  upon  my  heart  to  make  the 
voluntary  offef  which  was  required,  and  to  say  with  the  prophet, 
*'  Here  am  I,  send  me;"  and  I  was  at  once  appointed  to  St. 
Mary's,  on  the  river  Gambia,  as  the  successor  of  the  lamented 
Mr.  Marshall. 

Then  came  the  painful  hour  of  separation.  On  those  scenes 
of  sorrow  I  dare  not  dwell,  though  they  left  upon  my  memory 
an  impression  never  to  be  effaced.  To  be  severed  from  the 
companions  of  our  childhood,  and  the  friends  of  our  riper  years, 
who  have  become  entwined  around  our  hearts  by  the  tenderest 
ties  of  affection ;  to  say  farewell  to  those  with  whom  we  have 
taken  "  sweet  counsel,  and  walked  to  the  house  of  God  in  com- 
pany;"  and  to  bid  adieu,  perhaps  for  ever,  to  parents,  brothers, 
sisters,  home,  and  country,  are  trials  of  no  ordinary  character, 
and  must  ever  be  accompanied  with  feelings  of  the  tenderest 
emotion.  The  inward  conflict  which  is  experienced  by  a  sensi- 
tive mind  on  such  occasions  can  be  fully  understood  by  those 
only  who  have  endured  the  painful  struggle,  and  who  have 
literally  "  left  all  to  follow  Christ,"  in  embarking  for  foreign 
unhealthy  climes,  to  carry  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  to  the 
perishing  heathen.  Under  such  circumstances,  how  necessary 
to  feel  assured  that  we  are  in  the  path  of  duty,  and  that  our 


122  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

motives  are  pure ;  so  that  we  may  realize  the  fulfilment  of  that 
gracious  promise,  "As  thy  days,  so  shall  thy  strength  be." 

Having  been  solemnly  ordained  and  set  apart  for  the  great 
work  of  the  Christian  ministry,  and  also  united  in  marriage  to 
one  who  was  willing  to  share  with  me  the  dangers  and  toils  of 
missionary  life,  we  lelt  London  Bridge  for  Gravesend,  in  a 
steamboat,  on  Saturday,  the  12th  of  February,  1831,  accom- 
panied by  our  dear  friend,  the  Eev.  Elijah  Hoole,  D.D,  It  was 
with  peculiar  feelings  that  we  took  leave  of  this  gentleman,  and 
of  the  Revs.  T.  Edwards,  J.  James,  E.  Watson,  Dr.  Townley,  and 
their  respective  families,  who  had  showed  us  no  small  kindness 
during  our  stay  in  the  great  metropolis,  at  a  time  when  kindness 
and  sympathy  were  most  required.  As  the  vessel  in  which  we 
were  to  sail  had  not  yet  come  down  the  river,  we  spent  the 
Sabbath  at  Gravesend.  At  the  request  of  the  Eev.  W.  Hinson, 
the  resident  minister,  who  was  suffering  from  indisposition,  I 
preached  both  morning  and  evening  to  good  congregations  ;  and 
I  felt  it  a  great  privilege  to  be  thus  engaged  on  the  last  Sabbath 
that  I  expected  to  spend  in  my  native  land.  In  the  afternoon  I 
conducted  a  lovefeast,  at  which  several  of  the  members  spoke 
with  much  feeling ;  and  many  fervent  prayers  were  offered  to 
God  for  His  blessing  both  on  us  and  our  Mission.  Such  was 
the  gracious  influence  that  attended  the  services  of  this  day, 
that  we  felt  as  if  we  were  baptized  afresh  with  the  Holy  Spirit 
for  our  important  work  ;  and  we  were  not  only  encouraged, 
but  stimulated,  to  go  forward  in  the  strength  of  our  Divine 
Master. 

On  Monday  morning,  the  14th,  we  embarked  on  board  the 
brig  "  Amelia,"  commanded  by  Captain  M'Taggart.  We  were 
accompanied  to  the  vessel  by  Mr.  Hinson,  Miss  Hinson,  and 
Mrs.  Eedman,  of  Gravesend.  After  these  dear  friends  had  left 
us,  we  weighed  anchor,  and  proceeded  on  our  eventful  voyage. 
A  gentle  breeze  springing  up,  and  the  tide  being  in  our  favour, 
we  proceeded  rapidly  down  the  river;  but,  on  reaching  the 
Downs,  the  breeze  had  stiffened  into  a  gale,  and  we  were  tossed 
about  for  several  hours  on  the  restless  waves.  Although  blow- 
ing rather  strong,  the  wind  was  favourable,  and  we  had  ulti- 
mately a  fine  run  down  the  Channel ;  and  I  shall  never  forget 


CHAP.    YI.  —  COMMENCEMENT    OF    PERSONAL    LABOURS.     123 

with  what  feelings  I  gazed  upon  the  distant  blue  mountains  of 
dear  old  England,  as  they  now  appeared  to  be  rapidly  receding 
from  our  view.  From  the  peculiar  nature  of  our  Mission,  and 
the  character  of  the  country  to  which  we  were  going,  we  could 
scarcely  indulge  the  hope  of  ever  again  beholding  our  native 
land.  But  our  confidence  was  in  God ;  and  dear  to  us  as  were 
our  country  and  friends,  the  cause  of  Christ  was  dearer  still. 
The  following  lines,  written  by  the  late  Rev.  Eobert  Newstead, 
and  handed  to  me  by  my  honoured  father  just  before  I  left 
home,  are  expressive  of  my  feelings  at  that  trying  moment : — 

FAREWELL  TO  ENGLAND. 

"England,  farewell !  a  happier  land  than  thee 
I  have  not  seen,  nor  e'er  expect  to  see ; 
So  fair  thy  beauties,  and  thy  faults  so  few ; 
So  sweet  thy  comforts,  and  thy  sous  so  true. 
There  mighty  rivers  roll  their  ample  tide, 
There  fruitful  rills  adorn  the  green  vale  side ; 
Majestic  rocks,  for  ornament  and  shield. 
And  graceful  furrows,  which  full  plenty  yield. 
Thou  fairest  land  of  my  nativity, 
I  bless  the  Hand  that  cast  my  lot  in  thee. 
I  love  thy  temples,  and  thy  God  adore. 
Who  made  my  cup  of  bliss  in  thee  run  o'er. 
,»  I  love  thy  happy  myriads  who  embrace 

The  joyful  tidings  of  a  Saviour's  grace ; 
And  thou  hast  those  who  twine  around  my  heart, 
Erom  vvhora  't  was  only  less  than  death  to  part. 
But  God  has  called,  and  I  must  speed  away, 
In  other  lands  to  point  the  living  way, 
Which  leads  io  fairer  climes,  to  heavens  eternal  day.' 

^Ye  soon  found  ourselves  tossing  on  the  wide  ocean,  endea- 
vouring to  trust  in  Him  who  said,  "  Go  ye  therefore,  and  teach 
all  nations,  baptizing  them  in  the  name  of  the  Father,  and  of 
the  Son,  and  of  the  Holy  Ghost :  teaching  them  to  observe  all 
things  whatsoever  I  have  commanded  you  :  and,  lo,  /  am  with 
yon  alway,  even  unto  the  end  of  the  world. '^  (Matt,  xxviii.  19,  20.) 

We  were  favoured  with  a  "  prosperous  voyage  by  the  will  of 
God;"  and  when  we  had  become  in  some  measure  accustomed 
to  the  sea,  we  enjoyed  the  fine  weather  with  which  we  were 


124  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

favoured,  and  especially  the  beautiful  mooiilio-ht  nights,  during 
which  we  paced  the  deck  of  the  vessel  for  many  an  hour,  con- 
templating not  only  the  grandeur  of  the  ocean,  but  the  great 
work  which  was  before  us,  and  lifting  up  our  hearts  in  prayer  to 
God  for  His  guidance  and  blessing.  On  the  evening  of  the 
16th,  we  beheld  the  distant  blue  mountains  of  Portugal,  gilded 
by  the  departing  rays  of  the  setting  sun ;  and  on  the  3rd  of 
March  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  celebrated  Peak  of  Tenerilfe, 
rearing  its  lofty  head  above  the  clouds  which  floated  around  it. 
On  the  9th  we  passed  Cape  Verd  and  the  island  of  Goree, 
which  we  saw  at  a  distance ;  and  on  the  morning  of  Thursday, 
the  10th,  we  took  a  Negro  pilot  on  board  from  Bird  Island, 
entered  the  mouth  of  the  Gambia,  and  in  a  few  hours  came  to 
anchor  off  St.  Mary's,  with  the  coast  of  Africa  stretching  itself 
before  our  view. 

It  was  on  the  afternoon  of  a  beautiful  day  for  the  tropics, 
although  the  sun  poured  down  his  fiery  rays  upon  us,  that  we 
stood  upon  the  deck  of  the  "Amelia,"  as  she  rode  at  anchor 
before  the  neat  little  town  of  Bathurst,  on  the  island  of  St. 
Mary.  While  the  sailors  were  preparing  the  boats  for  our 
landing,  I  observed  a  number  of  Negroes  assembling  on  the 
beach,  and  watching  our  movements  with  apparent  interest. 
These  were  natives  connected  with  the  Mission,  who  had  heard 
that  a  Missionary  and  his  wife  were  on  board  the  brig  from 
England ;  and  such  was  their  anxiety  to  welcome  our  arrival, 
that  several  of  them  actually  plunged  into  the  water  to  meet  the 
boat  as  it  approached  the  land ;  and  they  carried  us  on 
shore  in  triumph  in  their  arms.  This  they  did  to  express  their 
joy  at  our  arrival,  as  well  as  to  save  us  from  being  wet  with  the 
surge  which  was  dashing  violently  against  the  sandy  beach. 
We  bad  no  sooner  set  our  feet  on  the  shores  of  Africa  than  we 
were  surrounded  with  a  large  concourse  of  natives,  some  of 
whom  had  received  the  Gospel  at  the  hands  of  former  Mission- 
aries,— those  dear  men  of  God,  some  of  whom  had  fallen  a 
sacrifice  to  the  climate  at  an  early  period  of  their  labours.  The 
people  wept  for  joy  at  our  arrival.  They  kissed  our  hands 
again  and  again  ;  and,  bedewing  them  with  their  tears,  ex- 
claimed, "  Tank  God  !  Tank  God !     Mr.  Marshall  die  :  but  God 


CHAP.    VI.  —  COMMENCEMENT    OF    PERSONAL   LABOURS.    125 

send  us  nuder  Minister."  With  some  difficulty  we  passed 
throuffh  the  crowd,  and  were  conducted  to  the  residence  of 
Charles  Grant,  Esq.,*  a  respectable  merchant,  to  whom  we  had 
letters  of  introduction  from  the  Eev.  Dr.  Townley,  one  of  our 
General  Secretaries.  Mr.  Grant  received  us  with  much  cordi- 
ality and  kindness,  and  at  once  invited  us  to  make  his  house 
our  home  till  the  IMission-House  should  be  prepared  for  our 
reception.  After  dinner  we  had  an  opportunity,  at  family 
worship,  of  returning  our  sincere  thanks  to  Almighty  God  for 
having  brought  us  in  peace  and  safety  across  the  mighty  deep 
to  the  appointed  scene  of  our  missionary  labours. 

On  the  morning  after  our  arrival  in  Africa  we  were  surprised 
and  delighted  with  all  we  beheld ;  scenes  of  great  variety  and 
interest  constantly  arresting  our  attention.  Every  thing  appeared 
strange  and  new,  and  totally  unlike  what  we  had  been  accus- 
tomed to  in  our  native  land.  The  houses,  having  no  glass 
windows,  and  constructed  without  either  fire-places  or  chim- 
neys; black  servants,  wlio  were  bustling  about  with  apparent 
intelligence,  and  in  great  numbers ;  the  frail  texture  and  peculiar 
shape  of  the  native  huts, — were  all  objects  of  singular  curiosity ; 
while  the  beautiful  scenery,  enriched  by  the  luxuriant  branches 
of  the  majestic  palm  and  cocoa-nut  trees,  gracefully  waving  in 
the  wind,  excited  our  admiration,  and  prompted  us  to  lift  our 
hearts  in  gratitude  and  praise  to  that  Being  whose  power  and 
beneficence  were  so  profusely  displayed  in  the  works  of  nature 
around  us. 

After  breakfast  we  gladly  accepted  the  kind  offer  of  Mr.  Grant 
to  walk  with  us  as  far  as  the  Mission-House.  As  we  passed 
along  the  outskirts  of  the  town  new  objects  an*ested  our  atten- 

*  This  kind-hearted  Christian  gentleman  was  for  many  years  connected 
with  the  Gambia  settlements  ;  and  every  surviving  Missionary  who  laboured 
there  during  that  period  will  unite  with  me  in  a  respectful  tribute  to  his 
memory  as  the  Mhsionanf  s  friend.  His  counsel  and  his  kindness,  in  times 
of  trial  and  affliction,  were  above  all  praise.  Never  shall  I  forget  the  kind 
attentions  of  dear  Mr.  Grant  to  me  and  mine,  and  his  patient  watchings  over 
the  bed  of  sickness,  when  almost  all  hope  of  life  was  taken  away,  and  the 
comfort  which  it  afforded  in  a  land  of  strangers.  Finding  his  health  much, 
impaired  by  the  climate,  he  returned  to  Europe,  and  peacefully  finished  his 
course  in  Scotland,  in  the  year  1848. 


126  PAUT    I. — WESTEKN    AFRICA. 

tion  at  every  turn ;  the  most  striking  of  whicli  was  an  African 
market.  Under  a  large  thatched  shed,  which  served  to  screen 
them  from  the  piercing  rays  of  the  sun,  were  squatted  upon  the 
ground  two  or  three  hundred  natives,  men,  women,  and  child- 
ren, half  naked,  engaged  in  various  kinds  of  traffic.  Fruit  and 
vegetables,  in  great  variety,  were  exposed  for  sale;  among 
which  I  observed  rice,  corn,  yams,  oranges,  bananas,  papaws, 
mango-plums,  and  ground-nuts,  besides  beef,  pork,  fowls,  and 
eggs.  These  articles  were  arranged  in  small  lots  with  consider- 
able taste,  and  placed  on  mats  spread  upon  the  ground.  The 
adjoining  beach  was  covered  with  canoes,  chiefly  belonging  to 
the  Mandingo  traders,  who  had  brought  many  of  these  com- 
modities across  the  river  from  the  main  land.  People  from  the 
town  were  constantly  coming  and  going;  and  the  noise  occa- 
sioned by  the  loud  and  boisterous  conversation  of  the  natives 
was  literally  deafening.  The  scene  altogether  baffles  descrip- 
tion. It  forcibly  reminded  me  of  the  confusion  of  tongues  at 
the  building  of  the  tow^er  of  Babel ;  for  I  w^as  informed  that  the 
persons  comprising  this  heterogeneous  mass  of  human  beings 
were  actually  conversing  in  more  than  a  dozen  different  lan- 
guages. 

On  turning  the  corner,  from  the  square  in  front  of  the 
barracks,  to  enter  one  of  the  streets  in  the  back  part  of  the 
town,  Mrs.  Moister  observed,  "  The  house  before  us,  with  the 
verandah  in  front,  surrounded  by  native  huts,  stands  in  a  nice 
situation.  "  I  am  glad  you  think  so,"  said  Mr.  Grant ;  "  for 
it  is  to  be  your  residence ;  it  is  the  Mission-House."  We  soon 
entered  the  yard,  and  at  the  foot  of  the  steps  leading  to  the 
dwelling  grew  a  beautiful  wild  flower,  a  kind  of  jessamine. 
"  There,"  said  T,  "  that  little  flower  seems  to  smile  upon  us,  and 
to  welcome  our  arrival.  If  I  were  inclined  to  be  superstitious, 
I  should  say  it  is  a  good  omen."  "  Let  us  take  it  for  a  good 
omen,  at  any  rate,"  said  Mrs.  Moister;  "but  let  us  not  forget, 
at  the  same  time,  that  its  very  situation  shows  that  the  hand  of 
death  has  been  here ;  for  had  not  the  house  been  unoccupied  for 
several  months,  the  pretty  little  intruder  could  not  have  retained 
its  place  overhanging  the  steps."  In  the  interior  of  the  house 
every  thing  wore  a  gloomy  aspect,  and  we  were  naturally  led  to 


CHAP   VI. — COMMENCEMENT    OF    PERSONAL    LABOURS.     127 

speak  of  the  fate  of  poor  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Marshall.  AYhile  thus 
engaged,  a  feeling  of  sadness  stole  over  our  spirits  at  the  thought 
that  we  also  might  soon  be  laid  in  the  silent  dust  by  the  side  of 
those  dear  servants  of  God  who  had  so  nobly  fallen  in  the  work 
of  their  Divine  Master  in  this  unhealthy  climate.  We  strove  to 
suppress  this  melancholy  train  of  thought,  changed  the  subject 
of  conversation,  and  lifted  up  our  hearts  in  silent  prayer  to  God 
for  His  protection  and  blessing.  After  giving  directions  to  the 
persons  engaged  in  cleaning  and  whitewashing  the  house,  we 
returned  with  Mr.  Grant  to  his  residence,  where  we  spent  the 
remainder  of  the  day. 

Having  called  upon  Lieutenant-Governor  Eendal,  to  pay  our 
respects,  and  to  show  my  credentials,  his  Excellency  not  only 
received  us  most  cordially,  but  kindly  invited  us  to  dine  with 
him  in  the  evening,  in  company  with  a  select  party  of  merchants 
and  officers.  Considering  all  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  we 
felt  it  to  be  our  duty  to  comply  with  this  invitation.  On  arriv- 
ing at  the  Government-House,  at  the  appointed  time,  we  met 
with  a  cordial  welcome  from  all  present ;  and  whilst  surrounded 
with  much  that  was  not  altogether  congenial  to  our  tastes  and 
feelings,  we  were  careful  not  to  lose  sight  of  our  character  and 
position.  In  the  course  of  the  evening,  when  required  to 
acknowledge  some  compliment  paid  to  myself  and  to  the  Mis- 
sionary Society  with  which  I  was  connected,  I  embraced  the 
opportunity  of  announcing,  most  distinctly,  the  object  of  my 
Mission,  and  of  soliciting  the  co-operation  of  all  who  felt  an 
interest  in  the  welfare  of  Africa.  After  a  few  hours  spent  in 
rational  and  interesting  conversation,  we  retired  early  ;  and  I 
thus  obtained  a  vantage  ground  in  civil  society  at  St.  Mary's, 
which,  by  the  blessing  of  God,  I  never  sacrificed.  It  may  be 
proper  to  add  here  that,  although  I  had  frequently  occasion  to 
speak  in  the  language  of  admonition  and  reproof,  from  the  low 
state  of  morals  which  prevailed  in  the  colony,  the  European 
residents  at  the  Gambia  always  contributed  liberally  towards  the 
support  of  the  Mission,  and  regarded  us  personally  with  marked 
consideration  and  respect,  during  the  entire  period  of  our 
residence  among  them. 

The  first  Sabbath  we  spent  in  Africa  was  a  day  never  to  be 


128  PAET  I. — "WESTERN  AFRICA. 

forgotten.  At  morning  dawn  the  native  prayer-meeting  was 
held,  in  which  public  thanks  were  presented  to  Almighty  God 
for  our  safe  arrival,  and  His  special  blessing  was  implored  upon 
our  future  labours.  In  the  forenoon  I  read  prayers,  and  opened 
my  commission  by  preaching  from  that  delightful  text,  "  This 
is  a  faithful  saying,  and  worthy  of  all  acceptation,  that  Christ 
Jesus  came  into  the  world  to  save  sinners."  (1  Tim.  i.  15.) 
The  people  heard  with  marked  attention,  and  the  appearance  of 
the  congregation  was  truly  pleasing.  It  afforded  an  interesting 
proof  that  the  labours  of  my  revered  predecessors  had  not  been 
in  vain,  though  some  of  them  had  been  called  hence  at  an  early 
period  after  their  arrival.  The  Negroes  who  had  been  brought 
to  a  knowledge  of  the  truth,  both  male  and  female,  together 
with  their  children,  appeared  in  the  house  of  God  neatly  clothed, 
and,  in  their  general  aspect,  they  presented  a  striking  contrast 
to  their  sable  brethren  who  still  remained  in  heathen  darkness. 
They  sang  the  praises  of  God  most  delightfully,  and  the  im- 
pression made  upon  our  minds  by  the  first  public  service  in 
which  we  worshipped  with  this  people,  was  of  a  very  pleasing 
character.  Another  service  in  the  evening,  conducted  partly  in 
the  language  of  the  natives,  by  the  aid  of  an  interpreter,  and 
partly  in  English,  closed  the  exercises  of  this  memorable  day. 

On  examining  into  the  state  of  the  Mission,  I  was  happy  to 
find  that  the  few  members  who  had  been  united  in  church- 
fellowship,  about  forty  in  number,  had  been  kept  together  by 
the  native  Exhorters,  since  the  death  of  Mr.  Marshall ;  and  that 
whilst  they  had  been  left  as  sheep  without  a  shepherd,  their 
meetings  for  prayer  and  supplication  had  been  regularly  held  in 
the  chapel  from  week  to  week,  in  confident  expectation  that 
God  in  His  providence  would  remember  them  in  mercy, 
and  dispose  their  friends  in  England  to  send  them  another 
Missionary. 

On  becoming  in  some  measure  settled  in  our  new  and  interest- 
ing sphere  of  labour,  the  arrangement  for  our  weekly  services  in 
the  chapel  at  Bathurst  was  nearly  as  follows  : — Every  Sabbath 
morning  I  read  prayers  and  preached  in  English,  for  the  benefit 
of  the  European  residents  and  intelligent  persons  of  colour,  who 
used  to  attend  our  chapel  in  considerable  numbers.     In  the 


CHAP.    VI. — COMMENCEMENT    OF    PERSONAL    LABOURS.     129 

afternoon  we  held  a  Sabbath  school  for  both  children  and  adults. 
On  the  Sabbath  evening  I  delivered  a  short  discourse  in  English, 
which  was  afterwards  repeated  in  Jalloff  by  one  of  the  native 
exhorters.  For  this  purpose  we  generally  fixed  upon  a  subject 
beforehand,  and  made  it  a  matter  of  special  conversation  and 
study.  On  Wednesday  night  I  preached  by  an  interpreter, 
every  sentence  being  rendered  into  Jalloff  as  it  was  advanced. 
On  other  evenings  of  the  week  we  had  prayer-meetings  and 
class-meetings,  in  which  the  English,  Jalloff,  or  Mandingo  lan- 
guage w^as  used,  according  to  circumstances.  The  congregations 
were  generally  good,  and  a  Divine  influence  frequently  rested 
upon  the  people. 

I  had  not  laboured  long  before  several  natives  were  awakened 
to  a  sense  of  their  danger,  and  brought  to  a  saving  knowledge  of 
the  truth.  Two  new  classes  were  formed,  and  the  number  of 
members  united  in  church-fellowship  was  more  than  doubled. 
I  have  sometimes  observed  the  Negroes,  while  passing  the  chapel 
on  the  Sabbath,  with  loads  on  their  heads,  attracted  by  the 
singing  ;  some  of  whom  have  halted,  put  down  their  burdens, 
listened,  entered,  and  ultimately  embraced  the  Gospel  with  all 
their  hearts.  At  an  early  period  of  our  residence  in  Africa,  we 
were  moreover  much  encouraged  by  witnessing  the  happy  and 
triumphant  death  of  two  or  three  of  the  converted  natives,  wdio 
died  in  the  faith  and  hope  of  the  Gospel.  Thus  were  we  cheered 
and  graciously  supported  in  the  prosecution  of  our  beloved 
work,  having  good  reason  to  hope  that  our  labour  was  not  in 
vain  in  the  Lord. 

But  the  most  delightful  and  interesting  part  of  our  mis- 
sionary labour  was  that  of  training  up  the  children  in  the  know- 
ledge and  love  of  God.  Erom  the  beginning  we  had  felt  tiie 
importance  of  this  department  of  the  w^ork,  and  we  had  not  been 
many  days  in  Africa  before  we  set  about  it  in  good  earnest, 
though  we  had  many  difficulties  to  contend  with. 

There  had  formerly  been  a  Mission  school  at  St.  Mary's ; 
but  it  was  given  up  on  the  death  of  the  ^Missionary  ;  and  the 
coloured  young  man  who  had  been  engaged  as  teacher  had 
obtained  other  employment.  I  was  about  to  secure  his  services 
again,  however,  when  a  messenger  came  and  said,  "  Eobert  is 

K 


130  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFJIICA. 

sick."  I  went  to  see  him.  He  was  in  a  high  fever,  but  in  a 
happy  state  of  mind.  The  next  day  the  messenger  came  again, 
and  said,  "  Eobert  is  dead  ! "  So  uncertain  is  human  life  in 
Western  Africa  !  As  there  was  no  other  person  in  the  colony 
suitable  for  a  teacher,  whose  services  were  available,  we  were 
obliged  to  undertake  the  instruction  of  the  children  ourselves,  in 
addition  to  our  other  duties ;  but  this  did  not  discourage  us, 
as  we  were  yet  young  and  in  good  health,  and  had  gone  out 
expecting  and  intending  to  labour  with  all  our  might.  We 
therefore  collected  the  children,  and  opened  the  school  at  once. 
I  took  charge  of  the  boys,  and  Mrs.  Moister  taught  the  girls. 
The  bell  was  rung  every  morning  at  six  o'clock,  and  the  school 
continued,  with  a  short  interval  for  breakfast,  till  two  in  the 
afternoon.  By  this  arrangement,  we  got  something  done  before 
the  heat  of  the  day  was  fairly  set  in,  which  we  soon  found 
rendered  both  scholars  and  teachers  incapable  of  close 
application. 

I  rejoice  to  say,  that  our  humble  labours  among  these  dear 
African  children  were  not  in  vain.  Notwithstanding  the  state- 
ments which  we  had  sometimes  heard  to  their  disparagement,  we 
found  them  capable  of  receiving  instruction  ;  and  many  of  them 
learned  to  read,  write,  and  cipher  very  nicely.  They  could  also 
sing  many  beautiful  little  hymns,  and  repeat  the  "  Conference 
Catechisms,"  both  in  English  and  in  JallofF;  for  we  had  by 
this  time  succeeded  in  translating  this  excellent  little  work  into 
the  native  language  of  the  people,  as  well  as  some  portions  of 
the  sacred  Scriptures,  When  they  first  entered  the  school, 
many  of  the  children  were  totally  destitute  of  raiment ;  but  we 
clothed  them  with  the  garments  which  our  friends  in  England 
had  given  us  for  the  purpose.  Several  of  the  girls  soon  learned 
to  sew,  as  well  as  to  read  and  write ;  and  the  school  shortly 
presented  a  most  interesting  appearance,  being  attended  by 
nearly  a  hundred  little  black  children. 

From  the  beginning,  the  grand  object  we  uniformly  sought 
to  accomplish,  in  reference  to  these  dear  little  ones,  was  to 
lead  them  to  Christ ;  and  we  were  tlierefore  delighted  beyond 
measure  to  observe  evidences  of  a  work  of  grace  on  the  hearts 
of  several  of  our  youthfid  charge.     This  was  more  particularly 


CHAP.    VI. —  COMMENCEMENT    OF    PEESONAL    LABOURS.     131 

the  case  with  five  or  six  boys  and  girls,  whom  we  had  taken  to 
live  with  us  at  the  Mission-House.  Some  of  these  were  poor 
orphans,  and  they  were  all  more  or  less  destitute.  They  were 
employed  in  various  domestic  duties  in  the  intervals  of  school 
hours ;  and  they  required  the  constant  exercise  of  patience  and 
perseverance  on  our  part ;  but,  on  the  whole,  they  gave  us  great 
satisfaction. 

One  night,  some  time  after  we  had  retired  to  rest,  we  heard  a 
noise  in  the  cl^ildren's  room,  which  was  some  distance  from  our 
own.  We  approached  the  door,  and  listened ;  and  with 
peculiar  feelings  ascertained  that  it  was  the  voice  of  prayer. 
These  dear  African  children  were  holding  their  own  little 
prayer-meeting  before  they  retired  to  rest.  The  eldest  girl, 
whose  name  was  Matty,  appeared  to  be  conducting  the  exer- 
cises. She  first  prayed  herself  in  broken  English,  and  then 
called  upon  John,  who  said,  "  Matty,  me  no  sabby  pray 
English."  "  Then  pray  in  Jalloff,"  said  Matty  ;  "  God  knows 
every  language."  He  prayed  in  Jalloff.  She  then  called  upon 
Petty,  wdio  also  prayed  in  Jalloff.  The  next  boy  on  whom  she 
called  was  Gabriel,  who  replied,  "  Matty,  me  no  sabby  pray 
English  ;  me  no  sabby  pray  Jalloff."  "  Then,"  said  Matty, 
"say,  'Our  Eather.'"  The  poor  boy  repeated  the  Lord's 
Prayer  in  a  solemn  tone,  after  which  the  juvenile  prayer-meeting 
was  concluded  ;  and  we  returned  to  our  room  unobserved, 
thanking  God  in  our  hearts  that  He  had  thus  begun  to  work 
upon  the  minds  of  our  dear  Negro  children  ;  for  they  were 
evidently  sincere  in  what  they  did. 

Our  adult  school  on  Sabbath  afternoons  also  afforded  us 
great  encouragement.  It  was  a  most  interesting  sight  to 
behold  a  number  of  converted  natives,  and  others  far  advanced 
in  life,  poring  over  the  sacred  volume ;  and,  with  considerable 
difficulty,  spelling  out  words  whereby  they  might  be  saved. 
Some,  of  course,  entirely  failed  in  their  attempts,  complaining 
that  their  "  mouths  were  now  too  hard,"  and  resolving  to  be 
more  than  ever  careful  to  afford  their  children  an  opportunity  of 
learning  while  their  "  mouths  were  soft,"  and  able  to  pronounce 
the  difficult  English  w^ords.  Others  succeeded' admirably,  and 
had  cause  to  bless  God  in  the  evening  of  life  that  they  were 

K  2 


132  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

able  to  peruse,  for  themselves,  the  records  of  eternal  trath. 
Among  these  was  a  poor  old  Negro  woman,  with  a  head  as 
w^hite  as  wool,  who  learned  to  read  easy  portions  of  Scriptures 
when  she  was  upwards  of  sixty  years  of  age.  I  shall  never 
forget  how  she  rejoiced  when  she  first  made  out  the  word 
".Tesus."  With  a  countenance  radiant  with  holy  joy  she 
exclaimed,  "  0  my  dear  Minister,  I  can  read  the  name  of  my 
Saviour !  " 

The  various  rites  and  ceremonies  of  the  peopl?  among  whom 
our  lot  was  cast,  soon  became  matters  of  curious  observation 
and  inquiry.  We  had  not  been  long  in  Africa,  when  our  atten- 
tion was  attracted  by  a  large  concourse  of  people  passing  the 
Mission-House  with  singing  and  music.  We  were  informed,  on 
inquiry,  that  it  was  a  marriage  procession.  A  Mandingo  or 
Jalloff  young  man,  after  paying  the  stipulated  price  of  his  bride 
to  her  parents,  conducts  her  to  his  own  hut,  accompanied  by  a 
number  of  their  friends,  with  music,  singing,  dancing,  clapping 
of  hands,  &c.,  where  the  night  is  spent  in  drinking,  feasting, 
and  revelling,  without  any  religious  service  whatever.  What  a 
painful  exhibition  of  human  depravity  is  here  presented  to  our 
view  !  On  witnessing  the  barbarous  and  iniquitous  practices  of 
these  deluded  heathens,  how  powerfully  were  our  minds 
impressed  with  the  fact,  that  "  God  is  not  in  all  their 
thoughts!  " 

The  birth  of  a  child  in  an  African  family  is  an  event  attended 
not  only  with  much  merriment  and  great  rejoicing,  but  by  the 
observance  of  various  superstitious  rites  and  ceremonies. 
Instead  of  being  carefully  nursed,  and  nicely  dressed,  as  in 
England,  the  poor  little  stranger  is  first  held  up  by  the  feet 
and  severely  shaken,  to  make  it  "  stand  good,"  as  they  say ;  and 
then  laid  upon  a  goat's  skin  spread  upon  the  floor,  with  a  piece 
of  native  cloth  thrown  lightly  over  it,  to  preserve  it  from  the 
stings  of  the  mosquitoes.  Among  most  of  the  tribes,  when  the 
infant  is  a  few  weeks  old,  it  has  to  undergo  the  cruel  and 
painful  operation  of  tattooing,  in  which  deep  incisions  are  made 
in  the  flesh  with  a  knife,  generally  on  both  cheeks,  and  on  each 
side  of  the  forehead.  The  scars  thus  made  continue  through 
life ;  and  clearly  denote,  by  their  number  and  form,  the  parti- 


CHAP.    VI.  —  COMMENCEMENT    OF    PERSONAL    LABOURS.      133 

cular  tribe  to  which  the  individual  belongs.  While  young,  the 
chiklren  are  generally  carried  on  the  back  of  the  mother  or 
nurse,  and  scarcely  ever  in  the  arms.  It  is  quite  common  to 
see  women  pursuing  their  ordinary  work  about  the  house,  or 
in  the  tield,  with  their  children  tied  on  their  backs ;  and,  owing 
to  this  careless  method  of  nursing,  the  poor  little  creatures  fre- 
quently receive  such  injuries  in  their  legs,  that  they  remain 
crippled  as  long  as  they  live.  But  the  worst  feature  in  the 
circumstances  of  African  children  is  their  bondage.  Most  of 
them  are  born  slaves  ;  and  those  who  are  nominally  free  when 
they  come  into  the  world,  are  always  liable  to  be  torn  from 
their  friends  and  home ;  and  doomed  to  drag  out  a  miserable 
existence  as  slaves  about  the  establishment  of  their  masters,  or 
in  a  foreign  land,  without  any  hope  of  freedom,  or  probability 
of  escape. 

One  day  we  witnessed  a  native  funeral.  As  the  procession, 
if  such  it  may  be  designated,  was  passing  the  Mission-House,  I 
called  Mrs.  Moister  to  come  and  see  the  strange  spectacle.  No 
coffin  concealed  the  loathsome  corpse.  It  was  merely  laid  upon 
a  few  pieces  of  bamboo  cane,  fastened  together  in  the  form  of  a 
bier,  partially  covered  with  a  piece  of  native  cloth,  leaving  the 
head  and  feet  entirely  exposed,  and  the  outline  of  the  whole 
body  distinctly  visible.  The  bearers  carried  the  corpse  shoulder 
high,  and  proceeded  towards  the  place  of  burial  at  a  running 
pace.  A  considerable  number  of  people  followed,  witliout  the 
least  attention  to  order  or  regularity;  some  of  whom  carried 
muskets,  which  they  fired  into  the  air  at  intervals,  to  drive 
away  wicked  spirits,  which  they  suppose  to  be  hovering  about 
on  these  occasions.  As  soon  as  any  one  dies,  the  people  light  a 
fire  in  the  hut,  with  the  same  object  in  view,  having  a  strange 
notion  that  evil  spirits  cannot  endure  smoke ;  and  that  if  Satan 
comes  in  search  of  the  soul  of  the  departed,  he  will  thus  be 
foiled  in  his  attempts  to  seize  upon  his  prey.  Several  persons, 
chiefly  females,  attend  native  funerals  for  the  purpose  of  mourn- 
ing and  lamentation.  They  sometimes  howl  in  a  most  dreadful 
manner ;  and  chant,  in  a  doleful  tone,  the  supposed  excellencies 
of  the  dead.  On  returning  from  the  funeral  they  make  a  great 
feast,  sometimes  killing  and  cooking  an  ox  ;  and  then  spend  the 


134  PART   I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

whole  night  in  drinking,  feasting,  drumming,  and  dancing,  in  a 
manner  shocking  to  contempLite.  They  have  also  a  custom  of 
making  feasts  for  the  dead,  long  after  the  funeral  ceremonies 
have  terminated.  On  these  occasions,  they  carry  portions  of 
food  to  the  grave  of  the  deceased ;  and  leave  them  there  with 
the  fooli&h  idea  that  the  departed  spirit  returns,  in  tiie  night,  to 
l)artake  of  them.  Foolish  and  ridiculous  as  these  practices  may 
appear,  they  are  innocent  and  harmless  compared  with  the 
horrid  funeral  rites  and  ceremonies  observed  by  the  pagan  tribes 
farther  down  the  coast.  There,  as  observed  in  another  chapter, 
hundreds  of  human  beings  are  sometimes  sacrificed  in  honour 
of  distinguished  individuals,  when  they  die,  from  a  strange 
notion  that,  in  the  world  of  spirits,  they  will  be  attended  by  all 
who  are  thus  cruelly  put  to  death. 

It  is  a  pleasing  fact,  however,  that  the  converted  natives,  in 
connexion  with  our  Mission  stations  in  Western  Africa,  soon 
learn  the  forms  and  nsages  of  civilized  life.  They  conduct  their 
funerals  with  a  solemnity  and  seriousness  suited  to  the  occasion. 
They  not  only  make  use  of  coffins,  and  proceed  with  the 
remains  of  their  departed  friends  to  the  "  house  appointed  for 
all  living,"  with  order  and  decorum  ;  but  they  also  listen  with 
devout  attention  to  any  address  which  may  be  given,  and  to  the 
funeral  service,  which  we  invariably  read  on  such  occasions. 
The  native  Africans  are,  nevertheless,  remarkable  for  excessive 
grief,  when  bereaved  of  their  friends ;  and  1  have  frequently  had 
occasion  to  remonstrate  with  them  on  this  subject,  and  to 
remind  them  of  that  eternity  of  bliss  which  awaits  those  who 
die  in  the  faith  of  the  Gospel,  and  that  Christian  people  should 
sorrow  not  as  those  who  have  no  hope. 

Soon  after  our  arrival  in  Africa,  I  was  called  upon  to  officiate 
at  the  funeral  of  one  of  our  own  people ;  and  I  had  thus  an  oppor- 
tunity for  the  first  time  of  visiting  the  burial-ground.  The 
cemetery  of  St.  Mary's  is  situated  about  a  mile  from  the  town 
of  Bathurst,  adjoining  an  extensive  sandy  beach,  which  is 
washed  by  the  waters  of  the  Gambia.  The  place  was  in  a  wild 
and  neglected  state,  being  without  any  kind  of  fence  or  railing, 
and  all  grown  over  with  weeds  and  bushes.  The  grave  of  my 
revered  predecessor  was  pointed  out    to   me.     It  was  distin- 


CHAP.    VI. — COMMENCEMENT    OF   PERSONAL   LABOURS.     135 

guished  by  a  plain  pile  of  brick  and  mortar,  without  any  stone 
or  inscription.  I  sought  in  vain,  however,  for  the  graves  of  Mr. 
Bell  and  others,  there  being  no  person  present  acquainted  with 
their  locality.  I  saw  some  splendid  monuments  which  had 
been  erected  to  perpetuate  the  fame  of  Governors,  Captains,  and 
merchants,  who  had  found  a  grave  in  African  soil ;  and  I  could 
not  but  regret  that  no  tablet  had  been  put  up  to  preserve  the 
names,  and  show  the  resting  place,  of  those  who  had  fallen  in 
the  service  of  the  "  King  of  kings,  and  Lord  of  lords."  But 
I  remembered  with  pleasure  that  these  dear  departed  servants  of 
Christ  had  more  enduring  monuments  of  their  zeal  and  fidelity, 
in  the  persons  of  those  who  had  been  brought  to  a  knowledge 
of  the  truth  through  their  instrumentality.  I  thought  also  of 
the  probability  that  I  myself  might  soon  find  a  resting-place  in 
this  desolate  spot ;  and  after  musing  for  some  time,  in  a  some- 
what melancholy  train  of  reflection,  I  endeavoured  to  lift  up  my 
heart  in  prayer  to  God  for  His  protection  and  blessing  ;  and 
returned  home  fully  resolved  to  "  work  while  it  is  day ;  for  the 
night  Cometh  when  no  man  can  work." 

Among  the  pagan  and  Mohammedan  tribes  around  us  we  could 
find  nothing  deserving  the  name  of  education  for  the  young ; 
the  only  children  taught  to  read  being  those  intended  for  the 
priesthood.  The  teacher  is  generally  himself  a  Priest  or  a 
Marahoo ;  and  if  he  has  to  travel  a  journey,  he  takes  his  school 
with  him.  The  very  idea  of  a  travelling  school  will,  no  doubt, 
be  somewhat  amusing  to  the  youthful  reader ;  but  such  is  the 
fact.  I  remember  once  having  a  visit  from  a  school  of  this 
kind.  It  consisted  of  about  ten  or  twelve  fine  little  black  boys, 
at  the  head  of  whom  w^as  a  learned  Maraboo,  their  teacher. 
They  had  travelled  a  distance  of  several  hundred  miles  ;  and  as 
they  moved  forward  by  short  stages,  they  had  been  six  weeks  on 
the  road,  learning  their  Arabic  lessons  at  intervals  every  day. 
Tlieir  object  in  visiting  the  colony,  they  said,  was  to  see  white 
men  and  their  houses,  which  they  had  never  before  beheld,  and 
to  purchase  a  supply  of  WTiting  pa^jcr.  Both  teacher  and 
scholars  were  much  interested  with  every  thing  they  saw  on  our 
station.  They  were  surprised  and  delighted  with  a  view  of  my 
librarv,  as  well  as  with  a  musical  box,  an  alarum  clock,  and 


136  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

other  articles  of  European  manufacture  which  we  showed  them. 
Again  and  again  they  clapped  their  hands  in  joyful  astonish- 
ment, exclaiming,  "  White  man  has  got  a  good  head  ;  white 
man  knows  everything."  When  we  had  talked  to  them  about 
the  great  God  that  made  them,  and  Jesus  Christ  who  came 
into  the  world  to  save  sinners,  and  made  them  a  few  trifling 
presents,  they  left  the  Mission-House,  apparently  well  pleased 
with  their  visit. 

Amidst  the  numerous  difficulties  under  which  the  first  Mis- 
sionaries to  the  river  Gambia  pursued  their  useful  labours,  it  is 
a  pleasing  fact  that,  as  already  stated,  many  were  brought  to  a 
knowledge  of  the  truth  through  their  instrumentality.  Among 
these  were  a  few  who  ultimately  rendered  important  services  to 
the  Mission  by  taking  a  part  in  the  instruction  of  their  fellow 
countrymen  in  the  things  pertaining  to  their  peace.  As  two  of 
these,  John  Cupidon  and  Pierre  Sallah,  were  employed  in  the 
work,  under  my  direction,  at  an  early  period  of  our  labours,  a 
brief  account  of  their  early  life  and  conversion  to  God  may  be 
interesting  to  the  reader ;  especially  as  these  may  be  regarded 
as  specimens  of  the  manner  in  which  hundreds  of  others 
have  been  turned  "  from  darkness  to  light,  and  from  the  power 
of  Satan  unto  God." 

John  Cupidon  was  born  in  the  island  of  Goree,  near  Cape 
Yerd.  His  parents  were  slaves ;  consequently  he  was  not  free 
born.  His  master,  however,  observing  his  fidelity  and  general 
good  conduct,  treated  him  with  greater  kindness  than  those 
who  are  in  bondage  usually  receive.  In  early  life  John  accom- 
panied his  master  to  England ;  and  I  have  often  been  amused 
with  his  owh  simple  account  of  what  he  saw  in  "  white  man's 
country."  The  splendid  buildings,  the  fine  shop  windows,  and 
the  gay  carriages  of  London  filled  him  with  Avonder  and  delight. 
His  visit  was  in  the  winter  season ;  and  one  morning  when 
he  arose  he  was  surprised  to  see  the  ground  covered  with 
snow,  and  the  water  frozen.  He  had  never  before  witnessed 
these  phenomena  ;  and  at  first  he  thought  the  snow  was  salt, 
till  convinced  of  his  error  by  tasting  the  strange  white  sub- 
stance which  lay  at  his  feet.  The  beautiful  transparent  ice  so 
interested  him,  that  he  resolved  to  take  a  piece  of  it  home,  that 


CHAP.    YI. — COMMENCEMENT    OF    PERSONAL    LABOrRS.     137 

he  might  give  to  liis  countrymen  ocular  demonstration  of  some 
of  the  wonders  of  England.  For  this  purpose,  he  carefully 
packed  a  quantity  of  ice  in  his  trunk ;  but  as  the  ship  pro- 
ceeded on  her  voyage  out,  the  temperature  increased  ;  and  John 
one  day  discovered,  to  his  utter  dismay,  that  his  treasure  had 
vanished,  leaving  his  clothes  well  saturated  with  water,  as  the 
only  recompence  for  all  his  trouble. 

Shortly  after  this  voyage,  his  master  retired  from  business, 
leaving  John  in  the  care  of  Charles  Grant,  Esq.,  by  whom  he 
was  taught  to  read  and  write,  and  under  whose  guardianship  he 
learned  the  trade  of  a  carpenter.  He  was  afterwards  employed 
as  a  storekeeper;  and  such  were  his  habits  of  industry  and 
perseverance,  that  he  saved  a  little  money ;  and,  in  the  course  of 
a  few  years,  with  the  kind  aid  of  his  benefactor,  he  w^as  enabled 
to  remit  the  price  of  his  ransom  to  his  old  master,  who  was 
living  in  London,  and  thus  he  became  a  free  man.  As  Mr. 
Grant  and  his  fcunily  attended  the  preaching  of  the  Missionaries, 
John  accompanied  them  ;  and  ere  long  became  deeply  convinced 
of  his  state  and  danger  as  a  sinner  in  the  sight  of  God.  He 
continued  in  great  mental  distress  till  the  month  of  May,  1822, 
when  he  obtained  "  peace  with  God  through  our  Lord  Jesus 
Christ,"  and  was  enabled  to  "  rejoice  in  hope  of  glory."  I  have 
often  heard  him  speak,  with  tears  in  his  eyes,  of  the  great 
change  which  he  experienced,  when  he  was  enabled  to  cast  his 
helpless  soul  by  simple  faith  on  the  merits  of  the  Redeemer. 

Being  well  acquainted  with  the  Jalloff  language,  and  having 
made  some  proficiency  in  English,  John  frequently  acted  as 
interpreter  for  the  Missionaries ;  and  he  manifested  much 
earnestness  and  zeal  in  these  his  earliest  efforts  in  the  cause  of 
God.  When  he  beheld  the  sad  condition  of  his  fellow  men, 
who  were  sitting  in  darkness  and  in  the  shadow  of  death,  his 
heart  was  moved  with  feelings  of  the  tenderest  sympathy 
towards  them  ;  and  he  longed  to  declare  unto  them  more  fully 
the  love  of  God  in  Christ  Jesus  to  a  perishing  world.  This 
laudable  feeling  the  Missionaries  encouraged ;  and  requested 
him  to  give  an  occasional  word  of  exhortation  in  Jalloff.  Such 
were  his  attainments  in  piety,  and  his  progress  in  the  knowledge 
of  Divine  things,   and  so  evident  was  the    success  which  had 


138  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

already  attended  his  labours,  that  he  M-as  ultimately  considered 
eligible  to  be  wholly  employed  in  the  work  of  teaching  and 
preaching  the  Gospel.  He  was  accordingly  recommended  to 
the  Missionary  Committee ;  and  having  been  accepted,  be  was 
employed  as  an  Assistant  Missionary,  from  the  time  of  my 
arrival  in  Africa.  I  may  further  add  that  by  his  consistent 
deportment,  fervent  zeal,  and  diligence  in  his  work,  he  con- 
tinued to  give  the  greatest  satisfaction  to  all  parties  concerned, 
during  the  whole  period  of  my  residence  at  the  Gambia,  and 
my  connexion  with  him  in  the  work  of  the  Mission. 

Pierre  Sallah  was  born  at  a  considerable  native  town  in 
the  interior,  between  the  Gambia  and  the  Senegal.  His  early 
days  were  spent  in  attending  his  father's  cattle ;  and,  being 
born  of  free  parents,  he  was  a  stranger  to  the  miseries  of  slavery 
for  several  years.  His  father  appears  to  have  been  a  respectable 
native,  and  was  sometimes  employed  in  the  service  of  the  King 
of  the  country.  On  one  of  these  occasions,  being  sent  to  a 
neighbouring  town  to  collect  the  customs  or  taxes,  he  took 
his  son  and  daughter  with  him.  On  arriving  at  the  end  of 
their  journey,  the  children  left  their  father  for  a  short  time,  and 
joined  a  party  of  boys  and  girls  who  were  going  into  the  woods 
to  gather  wild  fruit.  After  a  while,  Pierre  began  to  think  that 
his  father  might  want  him,  and  proposed  that  they  should  all 
return ;  but  to  this  the  other  children  did  not  consent.  In 
attempting  to  find  his  way  back  alone,  he  lost  himself  in  the 
forest ;  and,  in  the  midst  of  his  fright  and  perplexity,  he  was 
overtaken  by  three  men,  and  carried  oS  as  a  slave.  The  prac- 
tice of  kidnapping  was  then  so  common  in  that  part  of  the 
country,  that  the  poor  boy  was  quite  aware  of  his  fate,  and 
wept  bitterly  at  the  thought  that  he  should  see  his  father  and 
mother  no  more,  but  be  banished  to  a  strange  land,  where 
nothing  awaited  him  but  the  miseries  of  perpetual  bondage. 

For  three  days  and  three  nights,  Pierre,  with  several  other 
children  who  had  been  captured  in  the  same  way,  was  marched 
across  the  desert,  with  very  little  to  eat  or  drink.  On  arriving 
at  a  native  town  on  the  main  land,  opposite  the  island  of  Goree, 
then  a  French  settlement,  he  was  purchased  by  a  black  man  for 
a  coloured  lady  residing  in  the  colony ;  and,  in  about  a  fortnight 


CHAP.    VI. — COMMENCEMENT    OF    PERSONAL   LABOURS.       139 

afterwards,  he  was  safely  lodged  in  the  custody  of  his  mistress. 
Being  an  active,  energetic  bov,  he  was  soon  afterwards  sent  to  learn 
the  business  of  a  stonemason,  that  his  labour  might  be  more  pro- 
fitable to  his  owner  when  he  should  arrive  at  the  age  of  manhood. 

Some  time  after  this,  the  island  of  St.  Mary's,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Gambia,  was  settled  by  the  English,  and  there  was  a 
great  demand  for  masons  and  carpenters;  in  consequence  of 
which,  a  number  of  slave  workmen  were  sent  over  from  Goree 
by  their  respective  owners.  Among  these  came  Pierre  Sallah, 
who,  with  other  slaves,  attended  the  Wesleyan  chapel,  and  was 
thus,  for  the  first  time,  brought  under  the  sound  of  the  Gospel. 
While  the  Missionary  was  preaching,  the  word  came  with  power 
to  the  young  Negro's  heart,  and  he  felt  miserable  on  account  of 
his  sins.  Having  no  longer  any  confidence  in  the  false  religion 
of  his  country,  he  burned  his  greegrees,  and  abandoned  the 
foolish  Mohammedan  superstitions,  in  which  he  had  been  trained 
up  from  his  infancy.  He  now  sought  communion  with  the  people 
of  God,  that  he  might  be  directed  in  the  way  to  heaven.  As 
the  language  of  his  heart  was,  "  What  must  I  do  to  be  saved  ?" 
he  was  cxliorted  to  "believe  on  the  Lord  Jesus  Christ;"  and, 
wliile  seeking  in  humble  prayer  to  cast  his  burdened  soul  on 
Jesus,  he  obtained  a  sense  of  the  favour  of  God,  and  went  on 
his  way  rejoicing.  From  that  hour  he  endeavoured,  by  all  pos- 
sible means,  to  induce  his  fellow  workmen  to  forsake  their  sins, 
and  give  themselves  to  the  Lord  with  purpose  of  heart. 

At  tliis  early  period  of  his  Christian  career,  PieiTe  had  a 
severe  trial  to  experience.  The  work  of  building  at  St.  Mary's 
being  nearly  completed,  his  owner  required  him  to  return  to 
Goree,  where  he  would  be  deprived  of  the  means  of  grace,  and 
of  the  society  of  those  who  had  been  instrumental  in  his  con- 
version. In  the  fear  of  the  Lord,  however,  he  resolved  to  obey 
the  order  without  murmuring.  Having  acquired  a  little  know- 
ledge of  reading,  the  Missionary  gave  him  a  copy  of  the  holy 
Scriptures,  and  commended  him  to  God  in  prayer,  and  he 
embarked  for  Goree.  On  his  arrival,  he  recommended  the 
Gospel  by  a  holy  walk  and  conversation,  and  by  advising  his 
fellow  slaves  to  break  oif  their  sins  and  serve  the  Lord.  Un- 
aided and  alone,  this  young  disciple  soon  formed  a  little  meet- 


140  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

ing,  for  the  religious  instruction  of  any  who  would  attend. 
This  circumstance  gave  great  umbrage  to  the  people  of  the 
colony,  who  were  all  either  Mohammedans  or  Eoman  Catholics. 
Complaints  were  consequently  made  about  these  meetings  to 
the  French  Governor.  The  youthful  offender  was  brought 
before  his  Excellency,  when  he  made  "  a  good  confession  before 
many  witnesses ;  "  but  he  was  strictly  forbidden  to  hold  any 
meetings  among  the  slaves  in  future. 

God,  in  His  providence,  soon  opened  a  way  for  the  more 
extensive  usefulness  of  this  promising  young  convert.  His  case 
was  represented  to  the  Missionary  Committee  in  London  ;  and 
it  was  stated  that  if  his  freedom  could  be  obtained,  he  might  be 
usefully  employed  as  an  Assistant  Missionary.  The  funds  of 
the  Society  not  being  available  for  such  an  object,  the  circum- 
stance was  mentioned  by  the  Rev.  John  James,  one  of  the 
General  Secretaries,  at  a  Missionary  Meeting,  in  Abbey  Street 
Chapel,  Dublin,  when  such  an  interest  was  excited  that  a  sub- 
scription for  the  special  object  of  Pierre's  emancipation  was 
made  at  once.  A  little  boy  was  so  affected  with  the  account 
which  he  had  heard,  that,  in  the  warmth  of  his  juvenile  zeal,  he 
cried  out,  "  I  '11  give  sixpence  !  "  This  small  contribution  was 
followed  by  the  cheerful  announcement  of  larger  sums,  and  a 
shower  of  money  literally  fell  upon  the  platform,  exhibiting  such 
a  display  of  missionary  zeal  and  liberality  as  is  seldom  surpassed. 
Fifty  pounds,  the  amount  required,  were  soon  raised,  when  a 
rosy  son  of  "green  Erin"  exclaimed,  "Pierre  Sallah's  freedom 
is  purchased  with  Irish  gold,  and  he  shall  be  an  Irishman  for 
ever  !  "  On  my  arrival  at  the  Gambia,  I  had  to  perform  the 
pleasing  duty  of  negotiating  for  the  freedom  of  this  intelligent 
Negro  slave ;  and,  by  proceeding  with  care,  I  accomplished  that 
object  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  parties.  When  I  had  paid  down 
his  ransom  price,  and  the  necessary  documents  were  executed,  I 
informed  Pierre  that  he  was  now  a  free  man.  His  eyes  over- 
flowed with  tears  of  joy  ;  and  when  told  who  were  his  benefac- 
tors, he  fervently  prayed  that  God  might  bless  them,  and  reward 
them  for  their  kindness.  In  after  years  he  often  referred  with 
grateful  emotion  to  the  good  white  peo])le  on  the  other  side  of 
the  "great  sal t  water,"  who  had  manifested  such  kindness  to 


CHAP.    Yl. —  COMMENCEMENT    OF    PERSONAL   LABOURS.     J 41 

his  country  in  sending  the  Gospel ;  and  especially  to  the  people 
of  Ireland,  who  had  taken  up  his  case  with  such  characteristic 
zeal  and  earnestness.  When  told  of  the  humorous  observation 
of  one  of  his  friends,  that,  as  his  freedom  was  purchased  with 
Irish  gold,  he  should  henceforth  be  an  "  Irishman,"  he  was 
much  amused,  and  laughed  heartily  at  the  idea  of  his  future 
nationality* 

Pierre  Sallah  was  now  placed  entirely  under  my  care,  and 
resided  in  a  small  cottage  which  I  built  for  him  on  the  Mission 
premises  ;  so  that  I  had  an  opportunity  of  directing  his  studies, 
and  w\^s  favoured  with  his  assistance  in  the  Mission  school. 
His  ardent  desire  to  acquire  knowledge,  and  to  be  usefully 
employed,  was  a  pleasing  indication  of  his  future  success :  and 
such  was  the  affection,  diligence,  and  zeal  which  characterized 
his  humble  labours,  whilst  resident  with  me  at  St.  Mary's,  that 
he  greatly  endeared  himself  to  me  and  mine,  and  to  all  with 
whom  he  had  to  do. 

These  first-fruits  of  native  agency  in  a  climate  so  trying  to 
the  health  of  Europeans  were  hailed  with  gratitude  and  joy ; 
and,  in  future  years,  they  were  followed  by  other  pleasing 
instances  of  native  piety  and  talent  consecrated  to  the  service 
of  the  church,  leading  us  to  hope  that  the  regeneration  of 
Africa  may  ultimately  be  effected,  to  a  large  extent,  through 
the  instrumentality  of  her  own  sons.  , 

*  On  the  2a(i  of  April,  1849,  when  on  a  missionary  deputation  to  Ireland* 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  attending  a  most  iuteresting  Missionary  Meeting  in  the 
Centenary  Chapel,  Dublin.  In  the  course  of  my  address,  I  made  reference 
to  the  ransom  of  Pierre  Sallah  by  Irish  benevolence,  when  the  Rev.  W. 
Stewart  rose,  and  corroborated  the  facts  of  the  case ;  stating  that  he  was 
present  at  the  meeting  alluded  to,  and  that  he  never  before  beheld  such  a 
manifestation  of  Christian  sympathy  and  liberality.  The  large  assembly 
responded  heartily,  and  rejoiced  that  they  were  permitted  to  see  and  hear 
the  Missionary  who  was  the  instrument  of  carrying  out  their  benevolent 
design  for  the  more  extensive  diffusion  of  the  Gospel  in  Africa,  by  means  of 
native  agency,  in  this  instance  redeemed  from  bondage.  It  may  be  proper 
to  add  that  after  John  Cupidon  and  Pierre  Sallah  had  laboured  as  Assistant 
Missionaries  for  seventeen  years,  they  retired  from  the  regular  work ;  but  I 
am  imacquainted  with  the  circumstances  which  led  to  this  step. 


1^3  PART   I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 


CHAPTER  VIL 

FIRST  YOYAGE  UP  THE  GAMBIA. 

Extension  of  the  Work— Embarkation  for  Macarthy's  Island — James's 
Eort — Albreda — Jillifree — Tankerwall — Spinning  and  "Weaving— Teri- 
tabar — Badamy — The  first  Tornado — Cower — Macarthy's  Island — 
Lieutenant  W.  Shaw — John  Asar — First  Sabbath — Mohammedan  Fes- 
tival— British  Authority — Native  Doctors — Second  Sabbath — Bateda 
— Return  to  St.  Maiy's — Progress  of  the  Mission  at  Bathurst. 

The  friends  of  Missions  generally  regard  with  peculiar  in- 
terest the  circumstances  connected  with  the  first  planting  of  the 
Gospel  in  the  "  regions  beyond,"  where  the  worship  of  the  true 
and  living  God  has  never  before  been  established.  At  an  early 
period  of  my  missionary  labours  in  Western  Africa,  I  was  called 
to  engage  in  a  work  of  this  kind,  the  particulars  of  which  I  will 
now  proceed  to  relate.  I  had  heard,  with  feelings  of  deep 
emotion,  of  the  dark  benighted  state  of  the  Mohammedan  and 
Pagan  tribes  in  the  interior  of  the  country ;  and  I  felt  an 
anxious  desire  to  extend  to  them  "  the  light  of  the  glorious 
Gospel  of  Christ.",  In  the  order  of  Divine  Providence,  facilities 
were  now  afforded  for  such  an  undertaking,  which  were  not 
available  at  an  earlier  period.  Through  the  blessing  of  God 
upon  the  labours  of  His  servants,  a  few  native  labourers  had 
been  raised  up,  who  were  in  course  of  training  to  take  a  part  iji 
the  good  work,  and  were  both  able  and  willing  to  go  forth 
and  proclaim  to  their  deluded  fellow  countrymen,  in  their  own 
language,  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation,  with  all  the  advantage 
of  constitutions  accustomed  to  the  climate,  which  might  screen 
them  from  the  dangers  to  which  European  Missionaries  are 
exposed.  It  is  true  that  these  native  converts  were  as  yet  but 
children  in  knowledge  and  experience,  and  required  much 
instruction  and  oversight ;  but  they  were  daily  improving ;  and 
I  regarded  the  fact  of  their  having  been  providentially  raised 
up,  in  connexion  with  other  circumstances,  as  a  clear  provi- 


CHAP.    VII. — FIRST   VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.  1-13 

dential  intlication  that  we  ought  now  to  extend  our  labours,  if 
possible,  to  the  interior  parts  of  this  land  of  darkness. 

A  small  British  settlement  had  been  already  formed  at 
Macarthy's  Island,  for  the  protection  of  trade  with  the  natives 
of  the  upper  river ;  and  I  considered  this  the  most  favourable 
point  at  which  to  commence  our  labours,  inasmuch  as  we  should 
not  only  have  a  few  liberated  Africans  to  begin  with,  who  under- 
stood something  of  the  English  language,  but  we  should  also 
have  the  protection  of  our  own  Government,  iu  case  of  intestine 
commotions  among  the  native  tribes.  With  these  views,  and 
under  these  circumstances,  I  resolved  upon  a  tour  of  observa- 
tion, to  explore  the  banks  of  the  Gambia,  to  visit  Macarthy's 
Island,  and  to  make  arrangements  for  the  permanent  extension 
of  our  Mission,  should  suitable  openings  present  themselves. 

Having  regulated  the  affairs  of  our  infant  church  at  St. 
Mary's,  renewed  the  quarterly  tickets,  administered  the  sacra- 
ment of  the  Lord's  Supper,  and  given  directions  to  the  Native 
Teachers  how  to  proceed  in  my  absence,  on  Saturday,  the  14th 
of  May,  1831,  I  embarked  on  board  Mr.  Grant's  sloop  bound 
for  Macarthy's  Island.  It  was  not  without  a  painful  struggle 
that  I  took  leave  of  my  dear  partner  on  this  occasion,  having  to 
leave  her  a  comparative  stranger  in  circumstances  so  new  and 
untried,  in  a  climate  so  unhealthy,  neither  of  us,  as  yet,  having 
had  the  seasoning  fever.  It  was,  however,  necessary  for  her  to 
remain  behind,  not  only  on  account  of  the  danger  and  difficulty 
of  travelling,  but  especially  as  her  presence  and  labours  were 
required  daily  in  the  Mission  schools.  To  this  arrangement 
she  nobly  agreed,  notwithstanding  the  sacrifice  which  it  involved 
on  her  part.  Our  dear  people  felt  deeply  interested  in  this 
undertaking,  and  I  was  followed  by  their  fervent  prayers  to  God 
for  His  blessing  upon  my  journey.  On  contemplating  the 
prospect  before  me,  the  arduous  nature  of  the  undertaking,  the 
perils  to  which  I  should  be  exposed  from  the  extreme  heat  and 
unhealthiness  of  the  climate,  and  the  approaching  rains,  to  say 
nothing  of  wild  beasts  and  savage  men,  I  felt  ray  mind  for  a 
short  time  somewhat  depressed  ;  but,  on  casting  my  burden 
upon  the  Lord,  and  calling  to  mind  the  promised  presence  of 
my  Divine  Master,  the  cloud  was  dissipated,  and  I  was  enabled 


144  PART    I. WESTERN    AFRICA. 

to  say,  with  the  Apostle,  "  None  of  these  things  move  me, 
neither  count  I  my  life  dear  unto  myself,  so  that  I  might  finish 
my  course  with  joy,  and  the  ministry,  which  I  have  received  of 
the  Lord  Jesus,  to  testify  of  the  Gospel  of  the  grace  of  God." 
(Acts  XX.  24.) 

During  the  night  w^e  passed  James'  Fort,  a  slave  factory  in 
ruins,  on  a  small  island  in  the  centre  of  the  river.  This  was  a 
celebrated  place  in  times  of  old,  when  African  merchants  traded 
chiefly  in  the  flesh  and  blood  of  the  poor  degraded  Negroes. 
It  is  now  quite  abandoned,  and  known  only  as  a  favourite 
haunt  of  owls  and  bats ;  a  more  legitimate  commerce  having 
long  since  taken  the  place  of  the  slave  trade.  Just  above  this 
place,  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  river,  is  Albreda,  a  small 
settlement  long  held  by  the  French,  and  the  only  possession 
which  they  claimed  in  these  parts.  It  seems  to  have  been 
reserved  at  the  time  that  St.  Mary's  was  given  up  to  the  Eng- 
lish, and  Goree  ceded  to  the  French.  The  alleged  arrangement 
being  at  variance  with  the  terms  of  the  treaty,  it  was  for  a  long 
time  a  subject  of  considerable  annoyance  to  the  English,  till  the 
matter  was  compromised  between  the  two  Governments,  and 
the  whole  of  the  Gambia  was  given  up  to  Great  Britain,  accord- 
ing to  the  letter  of  the  original  compact.  Jillifree  is  a  populous 
Mandingo  town  in  the  same  neighbourhood,  the  inhabitants  of 
which  keep  up  a  constant  intercourse,  for  the  purpose  of  trade 
and  commerce,  with  the  European  colonists  at  St.  Mary's. 

On  Sunday  morning  I  went  on  shore  at  Tankerwall,  a  con- 
siderable native  town  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river.  Before 
we  landed,  and  as  our  canoe  approached  the  shore,  I  observed 
some  of  the  natives  climbing  the  trees,  and  watching  our 
approach  with  curious  interest,  as  if  anxious  to  ascertain 
whether  we  were  friends  or  foes.  And  this  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at,  as  they  had  known  white  men  visit  their  country  to 
steal  away  their  children ;  but  they  had  never  before  seen  a 
Christian  Missionary  or  a  white  man  come  with  a  message  of 
peace  and  good-will.  On  landing,  in  company  with  a  trader, 
we  soon  succeeded  in  gaining  their  confidence,  however ;  and  the 
women  and  children,  who  had  fled  at  our  approach,  returned  and 
surveyed  us  with  marked  curiosity.     At  length  some  of  the 


CHAP.    Til. — FIRST   YOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.  145 

children  approached  near  enough  to  touch  my  hand,  the  white, 
smooth  surface  of  which  they  examined  most  minutely.  Then 
arose  a  discussion  among  them  as  to  whether  the  "  white  man 
was  altogether  white,"  or  whether  "  his  hands  and  face  only 
were  of  that  complexion."  I  soon  settled  the  matter  by  turning 
up  my  coat  sleeve,  when  they  clapped  their  hands  in  ecstasy, 
exclaiming,  "  He  is  every  bit  white  ;  we  never  saw  such  a  fine 
white  man!"  On  entering  the  town  I  found  the  people  pur- 
suing the  ordinary  avocations  of  life,  in  total  ignorance  of  the 
Christian  Sabbath.  Some  were  spinning .  cotton  with  their 
fingers,  without  any  wheel  or  other  machinery ;  and  others  w^ere 
weaving  narrow  pieces  of  cloth,  about  five  inches  wide.  Their 
mode  of  weaving  was  remarkably  rude  and  simple.  The  looms 
consisted  of  two  upright  pieces  of  wood  planted  in  the  ground, 
on  the  top  of  which  rested  a  transverse  beam,  from  which  the 
slaie  was  suspended.  Beneath  this  a  hole  was  dug  in  the 
ground,  in  which  the  weaver  placed  his  feet  as  he  worked  the 
rude  machinery,  while  he  sat  upon  the  earth,  and  passed  the 
shuttle  from  hand  to  hand.  The  warp  was  not  wound  round  a 
beam,  as  in  the  case  of  an  English  hand-loom,  but  extended 
along  the  ground  a  distance  of  several  yards,  with  a  weight 
attached  to  the  end,  and  was  drawn  up  as  required.  In  the 
manufacture  of  these  narrow  webs  of  cloth  they  frequently  use 
at  intervals  threads  of  blue  cotton,  dyed  with  indigo,  grown  on 
the  spot,  and  thus  produce  a  striped  or  check  pattern,  which  is 
both  handsome  and  durable.  Bundles  of  this  native  cloth,  each 
containing  a  certain  number  of  yards,  pass  at  a  current  value  in 
barter,  forming  a  common  medium  of  exchange  in  the  absence 
of  coined  money ;  and  when  it  is  made  up  for  domestic  use,  the 
narrow  pieces  are  neatly  sewed  together  into  the  form  of  large 
shawls  or  scarfs,  called  pangs,  which  they  wear  loosely  thrown 
over  their  persons,  as  elsewhere  described. 

When  the  people  flocked  around  me  in  the  streets  of  Tanker- 
wall,  I  told  them  that  this  was  the  day  which  Christians  kept 
holy,  and  on  which  they  met  together  to  worship  God,  and  how 
glad  I  should  be  to  see  the  natives  of  Africa  adopting  a  similar 
practice ;  but  they  smiled  at  the  observation,  saying,  in  their 
own  language,  "  White  man's  religion  is  good  for  white  man, 

L 


146  PART.  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

and  black  man's  religion  is  good  for  black  man."  In  the  centre 
of  the  town  I  observed  a  rudely-constructed  mosque  or  Moham- 
medan temple.  It  was  built  of  mud  and  thatched  with  grass, 
as  were  most  of  the  huts  in  the  place.  After  viewing  it  both 
inside  and  out,  I  requested  them  to  allow  me  to  preach  in  it ; 
but  they  soon  gave  me  to  understand  that  their  sacred  place 
must  not  be  defiled  with  Christianity.  They  expressed  their 
willingness,  however,  to  hear  me  where  I  was  standing,  under 
an  open  shed ;  and  I  addressed  them  at  some  length  in  a  con- 
versational strain,  through  an  interpreter,  on  the  character  and 
works  of  the  great  God  who  made  them,  and  of  Jesus  Christ 
who  came  into  the  world  to  save  sinners.  After  spending  an 
hour  or  two  in  this  way,  I  commended  the  people  to  God,  and 
left  them,  with  the  hope  that  some  light  had  been  communi- 
cated to  their  dark  minds. 

On  returning  on  board  the  vessel,  I  spent  some  time  in  reli- 
gious conversation  with  the  Negro  sailors,  and  attempting  to 
teach  some  of  them  to  read.  They  were  anxious  to  receive 
instruction  ;  but  I  found  them  rather  dull  scholars,  having 
grown  up  in  perfect  heathen  darkness.  In  the  afternoon  I 
went  on  shore  at  another  place,  called  Tentabar,  a  small  town  on 
the  same  side  of  the  river  as  Tankerwall,  but  a  little  higher  up. 
Here  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  for  the  first  time  how  per- 
fectly man  is  reduced  to  a  level  with  the  brute  creation  by  the 
accursed  slave  trade  in  this  land  of  darkness.  Immediately  on 
landing  I  saw  a  slave  in  irons,  along  with  a  horse,  under  an 
open  shed,  both  offered  for  sale  at  the  same  time,  and  in  the 
same  place.  I  had  little  opportunity  of  conversing  with  the 
people  here,  as  they  were  busily  engaged  in  traffic :  I  therefore 
returned  to  the  vessel  deeply  humbled  by  the  specimens  of 
degraded  humanity  which  I  had  beheld  during  the  day,  and 
earnestly  prayed  that  the  means  of  religious  instruction  might 
soon  be  afforded  to  this  long-neglected  people. 

The  navigation  of  the  Gambia  is  somewhat  difficult  and 
tedious  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year.  As  we  ascend  the  river, 
we  frequently  lose  the  fine  sea  breeze,  so  common  on  the 
coast ;  and  when  it  does  blow  for  a  while,  the  dense  mangrove 
jungle,  which   covers   the  banks   on   both  sides,  prevents  its 


CHAP.    VII. — riEST   VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.  147 

acting  with  full  force  on  the  sails  of  the  vessel.  This  being  the 
case,  we  can  seldom  keep  under  weigh  after  the  tide  turns  ; 
but  are  obliged  to  let  go  the  anchor,  and  wait  till  the  next 
flow.  The  trading  vessels,  moreover,  make  frequent  calls  to 
trafiic  with  the  natives,  and  to  receive  and  discharge  their 
goods  at  their  different  branch  establishments.  This  last  cir- 
cumstance is  rather  favourable  than  otherwise  for  the  Mission- 
ary or  the  traveller  who  desires  frequent  opportunities  of  inter- 
course with  the  people,  and  of  surveying  the  natural  scenery  of 
this  interesting  country.  In  this  respect,  I  was  highly 
favoured  on  my  first  voyage  up  the  river,  as  the  vessel  in  which 
I  sailed  had  to  call  at  several  places  of  importance. 

On  Monday  morning,  the  16th,  we  sailed  up  a  long  creek  to 
a   place  called  Badamy ;    and  I  had   another  opportunity   of 
going  on  shore  to   talk  with  the  natives,  while  the  sloop  was 
landing   part   of  her  cargo.    Here   I   met  with   a   family   of 
coloured  persons,  who  had  originally  come  from  the  colony, 
and  whose  ancestors  were  of  the  Christian  faith  ;  but  they  had 
been  so  long  mixed  up  with  the  Mohammedans  of  the  interior 
that   I   could    discover    no  traces    of    Christianity   remaining 
among  them,  either  in  their  sentiments  or  practice,  except  that 
they   were    a   little   more    intelligent   and   obliging   in   their 
manners  than  the  other  natives.     After  conversing  with  these 
and  a  few  others  on  the  things  belonging  to  their  peace,   I 
returned  to  the  vessel.     VYe  then  descended  the  creek  with  the 
ebbing  tide,  and  continued  our  course  up  the  main  branch  of 
the  river. 

In  the  evening,  we  were  overtaken  by  the  first  tornado  or 
thunderstorm,  which  indicated  the  approach  of  the  rainy 
season.  This  phenomenon  is  truly  striking,  and  somewhat 
appalling  to  one  who  has  never  witnessed  it  before.  On  this 
occasion,  the  heavens  gathered  blackness,  the  thunder  roared  in 
fearful  peals,  and  the  most  vivid  flashes  of  lightning  succeeded 
each  other  in  rapid  succession.  The  wind  also  blew  with 
terrific  violence  from  the  east,  the  boat  was  torn  away  from 
the  stern  of  the  vessel,  and  we  were  obliged  to  come  to  anchor. 
The  storm,  though  very  furious,  was  of  short  duration.  After 
seeking  the  boat  for   some  time  without  success,  we  weighed 

L  2 


148  PART    I. — WESTERTf   AFRICA. 

anchor,  and  proceeded  on  our  voyage,  hoping  to  recover  it  on 
our  return. 

We  were  not  interrupted  by  any  stoppages  on  the  following 
day;  but  continued  to  ascend  the  majestic  Gambia,  as  the 
gentle  breeze  and  the  flowing  tide  favoured  our  progress,  being 
delighted  with  the  scenery  which  the  banks  and  numerous 
islands  of  the  river  almost  constantly  presented  to  our  view. 
Native  canoes  occasionally  came  alongside  of  the  sloop,  manned 
by  Jallotfs,  who  invariably  cried  out,  "  Mi  ma  sugar !  Mi  ma 
rum  !  "  "  Give  me  sugar  !  Give  me  rum  !  "  But  unless  they 
had  something  for  barter,  we  kept  on  our  course,  occasionally 
giving  them  a  trifling  present,  as  a  handful  of  sugar,  or  a  little 
tobacco,  to  be  relieved  from  their  perpetual  importunity,  and  at 
the  same  time  to  cultivate  a  friendly  spirit. 

On  Wednesday  the  18th,  we  anchored  off"  Cow^r ;  a  large 
native  town  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  river.  While  on  shore, 
I  was  much  struck  with  the  degradation  to  which  heathenism 
reduces  the  female  sex  in  this  land  of  darkness.  I  saw  a 
number  of  women  wading  up  to  the  knees  in  water  aud  mud, 
working  with  their  hoes,  some  with  children  on  their  backs, 
preparing  the  ground  for  rice,  whilst  their  husbands  w^ere 
lounging  at  home  in  idleness  and  sin.  Erom  other  observations 
which  I  made  in  the  course  of  my  travels,  I  found  that  most  of 
the  labour  in  cultivating  the  ground,  and  any  other  kind  of 
drudgery,  devolved  upon  the  women  and  slaves,  who  are  classed 
pretty  much  in  the  same  category ;  and  that  the  men  treat  their 
wives  more  as  beasts  of  burden  than  as  companions  and  equals. 

Hitherto  I  had  found  the  northern  bank  of  the  Gambia 
inhabited  chiefly  by  Jalloff's,  and  the  southern  by  Mandingoes ; 
but,  above  this  point,  the  Mandingoes  appear  to  be  the  sole 
proprietors  of  the  soil  on  both  sides  of  the  river.  Small  parties 
of  wandering  Poolas  are  frequently  to  be  met  with,  grazing 
their  cattle,  and  removing  from  place  to  place,  according  to  the 
state  of  the  pasture ;  but  as  they  claim  no  right  in  the  soil,  they 
dwell  in  the  land  by  mere  sufl:erance,  and  they  frequently  pay 
dearly  for  their  accommodation.  I  felt  happy  in  falling  in  with 
a  party  of  these  simple  people,  from  whom  I  obtained  a  supply 
of  sour  milk,  which,  when  sweetened  with  sugar  or  honey,  forms 


CHAP.    VII. — FIRST   VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.  149 

a  delicious  beverage  in  this  sultry  climate,  where  thirst  is  such  a 
constant  companion. 

We  had  a  fine  breeze  all  day  on  Thursday,  the  19th  ;  and,  the 
country  beino^  more  open,  it  filled  the  sails  of  the  vessel,  and 
enabled  us  to  keep  under  weigh  for  some  time  against  the 
ebbing  of  the  tide.  Such  was  the  rapidity  of  our  progress,  that 
in  the  evening  we  came  in  sight  of  Macarthy's  Island  ;  and  we 
began  to  prepare  for  going  on  shore.  I  was  charmed  with  the 
scenery  of  this  part  of  the  river.  The  sun  was  just  setting 
behind  the  opposite  hills,  the  air  was  comparatively  cool,  and 
the  labourers  were  returning  from  their  farms,  which  they  begin 
to  clear  and  put  in  order  at  this  season  of  the  year,  in  antici- 
pation of  the  approaching  rains.  We  came  to  anchor  at  ihe 
upper  end  of  the  island,  near  to  the  village  of  Eatiota,  where  my 
friend  Mr.  Grant,  the  owner  of  the  vessel  in  which  I  sailed,  had 
a  branch  trading  establishment.  On  landing,  I  met  with  a 
kind  reception  from  the  people,  and  obtained  a  lodging  for  the 
night  in  a  native  hut.  Being  weary  with  travelling  and 
exposure  to  the  sun,  I  slept  soundly;  having  retired  to  rest 
with  a  thankful  heart  for  the  preserving  care  of  my  heavenly 
Father. 

When  I  awoke  the  next  morning,  I  found  the  sun  had 
already  risen  above  the  eastern  horizon ;  and  the  light  which 
penetrated  through  the  crevices  of  the  rude  door  and  wattle 
work  of  the  hut,  discovered  the  character  of  my  humble  shelter. 
The  interior  of  the  building  was  hung  round  with  greegrees, 
spears,  bows  and  arrows,  and  other  symbols  of  idolatry,  and 
implements  of  war ;  the  very  sight  of  which  made  a  peculiar 
impression  upon  my  mind,  young  and  inexperienced  as  I  was 
in  the  Mission  field,  forcibly  reminding  me  of  the  fact  that  I  was 
now  in  the  interior  of  a  heathen  country.  On  leaving  my 
humble  lodgings,  I  took  a  walk  by  the  side  of  the  river ;  and 
was  led  into  a  train  of  reflection  both  painful  and  pleasing.  I 
thought  of  the  moral  degradation  of  all  around  me ;  and  felt 
that  I  was  indeed  in  a  land  of  darkness.  I  called  to  mind  the 
glorious  predictions  in  reference  to  the  universal  spread  of  the 
Gospel,  and  the  happy  time  when  "  all  shall  know  the  Lord, 
from  the  least  even  unto  the  greatest."     Fervently  did   I  pray 


150  PAET   I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

that  my  visit  to  this  place  might  be  crowned  with  the  special 
presence  and  blessing  of  the  great  Head  of  the  Church,  and 
that  this  might  be  the  beginning  of  a  new  dispensation  to  this 
people.  Whilst  I  was  thus  musing  as  I  walked  along,  to  my 
great  surprise  and  delight,  I  met  a  white  man !  who  introduced 
himself  to  me  most  courteously.  This  was  Lieutenant  W. 
Shaw,  a  young  military  officer,  the  Commandant  of  the  island, 
and  the  only  European  resident  in  the  country.  He  very 
kindly  invited  me  to  take  up  my  abode  with  him  in  his  thatched 
cottage,  and  to  share  with  him  the  few  comforts  wdiich  he  had 
in  the  wilderness.  With  feelings  known  only  to  those  who  have 
met  with  a  fellow  countryman  in  a  far  distant  land,  I  availed 
myself  of  his  kindness  ;  and  I  have  reason  to  indulge  the  hope 
that  my  intercourse  with  this  noble-minded  young  man,  under 
circumstances  so  peculiar,  may  have  been  of  advantage  to  him 
in  after  life ;  for  he  had  been  blessed  with  a  pious  mother, 
whose  godly  counsel  was  forcibly  brought  to  his  mind  by  our 
conversation. 

Saturday,  the  31st,  was  spent  in  visiting  a  few  of  the  people 
in  their  huts,  and  in  making  observations  on  the  island.  In 
the  course  of  my  ramble  1  was  delighted  to  meet  with  a  poor 
man,  named  John  Asar,  who  had  learned  something  of  the 
Gospel  during  his  residence  at  St.  Mary's.  Although  cut  off 
from  all  the  means  of  grace,  he  still  retained  a  sense  of  the 
goodness  of  God ;  and  had  been  endeavouring  to  let  his  light 
shine  before  men.  He  had  learned  to  read  a  little;  and  on 
entering  his  hut  I  found  him  with  the  Bible  in  his  hand.  I 
read  from  the  sacred  volume ;  and  w^e  both  engaged  in  prayer. 
The  Lord  was  present  with  us  whilst  we  were  thus  bowed  at 
His  mercy-seat;  and  I  felt  encouraged  to  hope  that  this 
humble  inquirer  might  be  made  a  blessing  to  his  fellow-country- 
men, when  more  fully  instructed  in  the  things  pertaining  to  the 
kingdom  of  God.  This  hope  was  ultimately  realized  in  his  being 
called  to  preach  the  Gospel  in  his  simple  way. 

Macarthy's  Island  (the  native  name  of  which  was  J  in -j  in -berry) 
is  so  called  in  honour  of  the  late  Sir  Charles  Macarfchy,  by 
whom  the  small  English  settlement  was  first  established.  It  is 
about  seven  miles  long,  and  two  broad ;  and  its  distance  from 


CHAP.    VII. — rmST   VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.  151 

the  mouth  of  the  river  has  been  variously  estimated  at  from 
two  hundred  and  fifty  to  three  hundred  miles.  The  original 
native  town,  Morocunda,  or  Holy  Town,  is  inhabited  exclusively 
by  Mandingoe?,  and  governed  by  an  Alcaid,  or  Headman, 
according  to  the  native  custom.  George  Town  is  the  name 
of  the  English  settlement,  which  is  so  called  in  honour  of  the 
King  of  England.  It  is  defended  by  a  fort,  which  is  built  of 
raud  ;  and  garrisoned  by  a  detachment  of  black  soldiers,  under 
the  direction  of  a  commandant,  for  the  protection  of  the  trade 
of  the  river.  The  town  is  inhabited  chiefly  by  discharged 
soldiers  and  liberated  Africans.  There  are  several  stores,  both 
at  George  Town  and  Fatiota,  belonging  to  merchants  who  reside 
at  St.  Mary's.  These  are  placed  under  the  care  of  respectable 
and  trustworthy  natives;  and  a  considerable  trade  is  carried 
on  with  the  more  remote  interior ;  gold,  ivory,  hides,  and  bees'- 
wax  being  obtained  for  muskets,  powder,  beads,  and  tobacco, 
and  a  few  other  articles  of  European  merchandise.  The  land 
is  fertile,  and  yields  a  good  return,  when  properly  cultivated. 
When  the  wind  blows  from  the  east,  the  heat  is  very  great ; 
the  thermometer  sometimes  rising  as  high  as  120  in  the  shade; 
the  air  being  at  the  same  time  peculiarly  dry  and  parching. 
I  have  no  doubt,  however,  that  this  will  prove  a  much  more 
healthy  locality  than  the  settlements  on  the  coast,  as  the  land 
is  more  elevated,  and  the  country  not  so  swampy.  Altogether 
it  appeared  a  very  eligible  situation  for  a  Mission  station,  being 
not  only  under  the  protection  of  the  British  Government,  but 
also  central  to  a  dense  population  inhabiting  the  surrounding 
districts. 

Sunday,  the  22nd,  was  a  day  long  to  be  remembered.  The 
bugle  at  the  fort  was  sounded  at  the  hour  appointed  for 
Divine  service,  and  the  soldiers  were  marched  up  to  the  place 
of  meeting  in  regular  order ;  who,  together  with  most  of  the 
people  of  the  town,  composed  a  numerous  congregation,  to 
whom  1  was  enabled  to  preach  the  Gospel  with  freedom  and 
power.  The  marked  attention  with  which  the  people  heard 
the  word,  and  the  deep  feeling  which  seemed  to  pervade  the 
whole  assembly,  led  me  to  indulge  the  hope  that  some  lasting 
good   was  effect<3d,  and  that  this  might  be  the  beginning  of 


152  PART    I. — WESTERN   AFRICA. 

better  days  in  that  place.  The  evening  service  was  also  very 
encouraging,  and  we  felt  it  good  to  wait  upon  the  Lord.  At 
the  close  of  the  public  worship,  I  invited  those  who  were 
determined  to  abandon  all  sin,  and  to  give  their  hearts  to  God, 
to  remain  a  short  time,  that  I  might,  in  familiar  conversation, 
expound  unto  them  "  the  way  of  God  more  perfectly."  To  my 
great  surprise  not  one  of  the  assembly  retired.  Aware,  how- 
ever, that  most  of  them  had  hitherto  been  indulging  in 
heathenish  rites  and  ceremonies,  as  well  as  in  acts  of  gross 
immorality,  I  did  not  see  my  way  clear  to  form  a  class  at  that 
time,  feeling  convinced  that,  however  penitent  many  of  them 
might  be  for  the  moment,  they  would  require  much  instruction 
before  they  could  be  admitted  even  as  candidates  for  church 
membership.  Knowing  also  that  I  should  soon  have  to  leave 
them  for  the  present,  I  could  only  address  them  for  a  few  minutes 
in  a  general  way,  on  the  nature  and  importance  of  personal 
religion,  and  so  close  tlie  meeting  with  fervent  prayer  to  God 
for  His  blessing  on  their  souls. 

Monday,  the  23rd,  was  the  day  on  which  a  great  Mohammedan 
festival  was  celebrated  at  Macarthy's  Island.  A  Maraboo,  or 
Priest,  of  distinguished  eminence  among  his  people,  had  come 
from  a  distant  place  to  conduct  the  ceremony.  At  an  early 
hour  in  the  morning  th-y  commenced  their  worship  under  a 
large  sacred  tree,  not  far  from  the  fort.  The  people  spread 
their  mats  on  the  ground,  and  strewed  them  with  the  leaves 
and  flowers  of  a  particular  tree.  The  Priest  placed  himself  in 
the  front,  with  his  back  to  the  congregation,  which  consisted 
of  about  two  hundred  persons,  and  recited  several  Arabic 
prayers,  which  they  all  repeated  aloud  after  him.  He  then 
went  through  various  gesticulations,  repeatedly  bowing  and 
prostrating  himself  upon  the  ground,  being  strictly  imitated  by 
the  people  in  all  that  he  did.  Thus  they  continued  their 
exercises  for  about  two  hours ;  and  then  returned  to  Morocunda, 
where  they  spent  the  rest  of  the  day,  and  the  whole  of  the 
night,  in  feasting,  drinking,  drumming,  dancing,  and  firing  of 
guns,  setting  the  whole  place  in  an  uproar.  Such  was  one  of 
the  many  specimens  which  I  witnessed  of  the  religion  of  the 
false  prophet,  as  practised  by  this  barbarous  people. 


CHAP.    VII.— FIRST   VOYAGE    UP   THE    GAMBIA.  153 

The  establisliment  of  British  settlements  on  the  coast  and 
rivers  of  Western  Africa  has  not  only  operated  as  a  check  on 
the  foreign  slave  trade,  but  it  has  exercised  a  favourable 
influence  over  the  domestic  slavery  of  the  interior,  even  in 
districts  beyond  the  jurisdiction  of  English  law.  In  former  times 
it  was  not  at  all  an  uncommon  occurrence  for  an  individual 
who  owed  the  most  trifling  debt,  or  who  was  guilty  of  some 
petty  misdemeanour,  to  have  his  children  carried  off  into 
slavery,  by  a  native  Chief  or  merchant.  During  my  stay  at 
Macarthy's  Island,  a  little  Jollar  boy  was  seized  in  this  way 
by  a  party  of  Mandingoes.  A  complaint  was  made  to  the 
Commandant,  who  immediately  summoned  the  persons  accused 
and  the  Alcaid  of  Morocunda  to  appear  before  him,  to  give  an 
account  of  the  matter.  I  was  present  when  the  examination 
took  place ;  and  felt  deeply  interested  in  the  proceedings.  The 
Mandingoes  appeared  very  humble  and  submissive,  and  denied 
having  any  knowledge  of  the  circumstances,  or  participation  in 
the  afi'air.  As  no  trace  could  be  found  of  the  real  offender,  the 
case  was  allowed  to  stand  over  for  the  time  being ;  yet  I  could 
not  but  feel  thankful  for  the  deference  paid  to  British  authority, 
whenever  it  is  thought  necessary  to  interfere  on  behalf  of  the 
oppressed. 

Another  complaint  was  brought  before  Lieutenant  Shaw, 
shortly  afterwards,  by  a  man  who  had  received  a  serious  wound 
in  his  arm.  When  he  presented  himself  at  the  door  where  we 
were  sitting,  the  blood  was  flowing  copiously  from  the  wound. 
He  proceeded  to  relate  that  in  the  course  of  the  morning  a 
party  of  hunters  had  killed  a  large  elephant,  near  to  the  place 
where  he  was  working  on  his  ground,  about  three  miles  distant 
from  the  settlement.  After  they  had  taken  the  ivory  tusks  and 
all  they  required,  they  left  the  carcass  of  the  animal,  and 
proceeded  in  the  chase  after  other  game.  Whilst  he  and 
several  others,  according  to  custom,  began  helping  themselves 
to  the  elephant  beef,  a  party  of  Mandingoes  came  upon  them, 
to  drive  them  off ;  one  of  whom  struck  him  with  his  cutlass 
on  the  arm,  and  inflicted  the  wound  which  he  showed  us.  The 
Commandant  immediately  sent  a  number  of  soldiers  in  search 
of  the   offender;    but  he  had  fled  beyond   the   boundaries  of 


154  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

the  settlement,  and  could  not  be  found.  The  Alcaid  prpmised, 
however,  to  deliver  him  up  to  justice,  should  he  venture  to 
make  his  appearance  at  the  native  town  on  the  island. 

During  my  stay  at  Macarthy's  Island,  I  had  frequent  oppor- 
tunities of  conversing  with  Mohammedan  Priests,  some  of  whom 
could  read  Arabic  pretty  well,  and  were  glad  to  receive  the 
tracts  and  portions  of  Scripture  printed  in  that  language,  which 
I  carried  with  me  for  the  purpose  of  distribution.  I  spent 
several  hours  in  the  open  air,  one  beautiful  moonlight  night,  in 
religious  discussion  with  a  company  of  more  intelligent 
Mohammedans.  Arguments  were  produced  on  both  sides ;  but 
when  I  was  just  gaining  the  victory,  as  I  thought,  the  natives 
concluded  the  controversy  with  their  usual  evasion,  that  "  white 
man's  religion  is  good  for  white  man,  and  black  man's  religion 
is  good  for  black  man."  Notwithstanding  this  common  sub- 
terfuge, however,  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  a  good  impres- 
sion was  made  upon  their  minds  ;  for,  before  we  parted,  I 
proposed  that  we  should  unite  in  prayer  to  Almighty  God  for 
His  Divine  guidance  and  blessing.  To  this  they  agreed  ;  and  I 
shall  not  soon  forget  the  feelings  of  my  heart  while  supplicating 
the  throne  of  the  heavenly  grace,  surrounded  by  those  sable  sons 
of  Ham,  who  had  never  before  heard  the  voice  of  a  Christian  Mis- 
sionary. The  night  was  calm  and  serene,  the  moon  shone 
brightly  upon  us  as  we  were  thus  bowed  before  the  Lord  ;  and 
when  we  had  finished  our  devotions,  I  retired  to  my  humble 
couch,  cherishing  a  pleasing  hope  that  the  day  was  not  far 
distant  when  the  light  of  the  blessed  Gospel  would  permanently 
shine  upon  this  dark,  benighted  people. 

On  returning  to  the  residence  of  Lieutenant  Shaw,  after  a 
short  absence,  I  found  him  suffering  from  an  attack  of  fever ; 
and  I  could  not  but  feel  painfully  impressed  with  the  trying 
situation  of  a  poor  European  when  seized  with  illness  in  the 
Interior  of  Africa,  far  away  from  kind  friends,  medical  aid,  and 
the  ordinary  comforts  of  civilized  society.  Under  these  cir- 
cumstances a  person  is  induced  to  give  himself  up  entirely  into 
the  hands  of  the  natives,  and  submit  to  whatever  they  prescribe. 
Such  I  found  to  be  the  case  with  my  friend.  He  was  sur- 
rounded by  a  number  of  old  women,  who  were  administering 


CHAP.    VII. — riEST   VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.  155 

**  bush,  medicine  ;''  which  appeared  to  me  more  likely  to  kill 
than  to  cure.  Nor  was  this  all ;  they  had  suspended  gree- 
grees  about  his  neck,  and  were  actually  making  him  drink 
*' greegree  water."  This  nostrum  is  prepared  as  follows: — A 
Maraboo,  or  Priest,  is  consulted,  who  prescribes  the  necessary 
charm,  writes  it  in  Arabic  on  a  piece  of  board ;  and  the  nurse 
in  attendance,  after  washing  it  off  with  water  into  a  calabash, 
requires  the  patient  to  drink  it.  They  have  a  superstitious 
notion  that  this  charm  will  send  away  the  evil  spirit,  which  they 
believe  to  be  the  cause  of  the  sickness.  I  soon  dismissed  these 
spirit  doctors  ;  and  administered  a  little  proper  medicine  to  my 
friend,  which,  with  the  aid  of  some  good  soup  and  other 
nourishment,  which  I  caused  to  be  prepared  for  him,  soon  pro- 
moted his  recovery,  and  in  a  few  days  he  was  convalescent. 
It  may  not  be  improper  here  to  remark,  that  a  little  practical 
knowledge  of  medicine  is  very  desirable,  if  not  absolutely  neces- 
saiy,  for  a  Missionary  to  Africa ;  as  he  or  his  family  may  be 
placed  in  circumstances  of  affliction  and  trial  when  no  proper 
medical  aid  is  at  hand ;  and  he  is  often  applied  to  in  cases  of 
sickness  by  the  natives,  who  take  it  for  granted  that  he  knows 
every  thing. 

Having  in  some  measure  accomplished  the  object  of  my  visit 
to  Macarthy's  Island,  by  preaching  to  the  people,  conversing 
with  the  most  intelligent  natives,  and  collecting  information  for 
my  future  guidance,  on  Thursday,  the  2nd  of  June,  I  embarked 
on  board  a  small  boat  on  my  return  to  St.  Mary's.  I  was 
obliged  thus  to  hasten  my  departure  in  consequence  of  the  near 
approach  of  the  rainy  season,  which  would  make  travelling  diffi- 
cult and  uncomfortable,  to  say  nothing  of  the  danger  to  which, 
as  a  "  new  comer,"  I  should  be  exposed,  if  overtaken  by  the 
rains  in  the  interior,  before  I  had  passed  through  the  seasoning 
fever.  On  taking  my  departure,  I  was  much  affected  by  the 
earnest  entreaties  of  the  people  that  I  would  visit  them  again,  or 
send  them  a  teacher  to  instruct  them  and  their  children  in  the 
things  of  God.  Several  followed  me  to  the  vessel,  repeating 
and  urging  their  request ;  and  I  promised  if  possible  to  return 
again,  and  make  some  provision  for  their  spiritual  necessities. 

We  had  a  fine  run  down  the  river  during  the  day,  with  the 


156  PART   I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

wind  and  tide  in  our  favour.  In  the  evening  we  saw  a  large 
elepliant  lying  dead  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  river,  which 
had  been  recently  killed  by  the  natives.  We  took  a  canoe,  and 
went  to  examine  it,  hoping  to  find  some  ivory ;  but  the  huge 
tusks  had  been  taken  by  the  hunters,  and,  after  cutting  oflp  one 
of  its  ears  as  a  curiosity,  I  returned  to  the  vessel,  and  con- 
tinued my  voyage. 

On  Saturday,  the  4th,  we  sailed  up  a  long  creek  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  river  to  a  place  called  Bateda,  where  the 
vessel  had  to  take  in  corn.  Towards  evening  I  went  on  shore, 
and  visited  two  native  towns  a  considerable  distance  inland. 
The  road  led  through  a  forest  of  lofty  trees,  in  which  we  saw  a 
number  of  birds  of  the  most  beautiful  and  varied  plumage.  It 
is  remarkable,  however,  that  the  pretty  birds  of  Africa  never 
sing  in  a  connected  and  melodious  manner  like  the  singing 
birds  of  Europe.  Some  whistle  and  chirp,  and  others  give 
notes  of  the  most  harsh  and  discordant  sound,  especially  those 
of  the  parrot  tribe,  which  were  flyng  about  in  large  coveys,  and 
making  a  deafening  noise.  On  enteri.:^^  the  first  town  we  came 
to  a  deep  well,  from  which  a  man  was  ai^iwing  water.  I  was 
thirsty,  and  he  cheerfully  handed  me  his  calabash  to  take  a 
drink ;  but  the  water  was  rather  muddy,  and  a  little  sufficed. 
At  the  same  place  I  observed  several  Maraboos,  with  their 
tablets  in  their  hands,  writing  Arabic.  Their  mode  of  writing 
on  these  tablets  is  not  always  the  same.  Sometimes  they  use  a 
reed  pen  and  ink ;  and,  when  necessary,  the  writing  can  be 
washed  off  with  water.  At  other  times  the  board  is  covered 
with  a  thin  coat  of  bees' -wax,  and  the  characters  are  traced 
with  an  iron  style.  In  this  case  the  writing  can  be  erased  by 
friction  with  any  smooth  and  hard  substance.  When  the  natives 
write  on  paper,  they  invariably  use  separate  leaves,  never  attempt- 
ing anything  like  book-binding.  Near  this  town  I  visited  the 
ruins  of  a  large  building,  which  appeared  to  have  been  a  temple, 
the  object  and  history  of  which  I  could  not  ascertain.  What- 
ever may  have  been  the  character  and  nature  of  the  erection, 
nothing  now  remains  but  a  part  of  the  foundation  and  a  few 
broken  pillars. 

After   walking  about  three  miles  further,   we  came  to  the 


CHAP.    VII. — FIRST   VOYAGE   VV   THE    GAMBIA.  157 

second  town,  Avhich  appeared  to  contain  a  considerable  popu- 
lation. We  now  felt  tired  and  hungry,  and  we  were  glad  to 
find  the  natives  kind  and  hospitable.  They  set  before  us  a 
large  bowl  of  rice  and  milk,  of  which  we  made  a  hearty  meal. 
As  night  was  approaching,  we  hastened  back  to  the  vessel ; 
and  from  the  extreme  heat  of  the  day,  and  the  long  fatiguing 
walk  in  which  I  had  indulged,  I  had  a  severe  head-ache 
during  the  night,  which  was  the  first  I  had  experienced  since  I 
came  to  Africa. 

On  ascending  another  long  creek  about  this  time,  I  w^as 
much  amused  by  the  playful  frolics  of  a  tribe  of  monkeys, 
which  had  assembled  in  the  tops  of  the  trees,  which  were 
interwoven  in  dense  masses  over  our  heads,  forming  a  kind 
of  natural  arch.  These  lively  inhabitants  of  the  forest  skipped 
from  branch  to  branch,  keeping  pace  with  the  canoe  in  which 
we  sailed.  Sometimes  they  seemed  disposed  to  dispute  our 
passage,  chattering  and  growling  in  the  most  menacing  tones, 
and  even  throwing  pieces  of  stick  and  wild  fruit  down  upon  us 
with  all  their  might.  It  was  not  till  a  musket  shot  or  two  had 
been  fired  among  them  by  one  of  our  party,  that  these 
impertinent  animals  were  entirely  dispersed. 

We  called  at  a  few  more  places  as  we  descended  the 
river ;  and  on  the  morning  of  Friday,  the  10th,  I  was  delighted 
to  behold  at  a  distance  the  neat-looking  white  houses  of  the 
town  of  Bathurst.  We  reached  the  place  and  came  to  anchor 
in  the  afternoon ;  and  I  hastened  on  shore,  not  without  feelings 
of  anxiety  as  to  how  I  should  find  all  at  the  Mission-House.  I 
was  truly  thankful,  however,  to  find  that  my  dear  wife  had 
been  preserved  in  good  health  and  spirits;  and  our  hearts 
overflowed  with  gratitude  to  God  for  His  preserving  care  and 
goodness  during  the  month  that  I  had  been  from  home. 

My  return  to  St.  Mary's  was  hailed  with  joy  by  our  dear 
people  ]  and  I  was  happy  to  learn  that  the  religious  services, 
as  conducted  by  the  native  teachers,  had  been  well  attended 
during  my  absence.  The  schools  had  also  been  kept  in  active 
operation,  under  the  superintendence  of  Mrs.  Moister ;  and 
everything  on  the  station  wore  such  a  cheering  aspect,  that  I 


35S  PAPkT   I. — WESTERN   AFRICA. 

had  no  reason  to  regret  the  sacrifice  which  I  had  made  in  under- 
taking this  tour  of  observation. 

I  was  much  amused  with  the  account  Mrs.  Moister  gave  me 
of  several  visits  which  she  had  received  from  parties  of  natives 
during  my  absence.     They  had  come  from  distant  parts  of  the 
country  to  pay  their  respects  to  ^^  sering  tatabe,'" — "the  white 
Minister ;  "  and,  finding  he   w'as   from  home,  they   expressed 
their    wish   to   have   an   interview   with   the    "  white   lady." 
When  this   request   was   granted,  they  entered   the   Mission- 
House,  and  seated  themselves  on  the  floor,  around  Mrs.  Moister, 
who  occupied   a  seat  in  the  centre.     She  then  inquired   the 
object  of  their  visit  ;  and  one  of  her  little  school-boys,  acting  as 
interpreter,  coolly  replied,  "  They  only  come  to  pay  you  com- 
pliment, Ma'am."     At  first  she  thought  it  a  rather  coarse  kind 
of  compliment ;  but  she  soon  became  used  to  it.     As  she  was 
the  only  European  female  in  the  country  at  the  time,  it  required 
some  nerve,  however,  to  converse  with  a  number  of  half-naked 
savages,  with  their  spears   and   other   implements  of  war  in 
their  hands.     They   were   generally  civil   in   their   behaviour, 
however ;  and  frequently  listened  with  attention  to  what  was 
said  to  them  on  religious  subjects,  as  well  as  on  other  topics 
likely  to  interest  them.     On  their  departure  from  the  Mission- 
House  these  native  visitors  generally  received  a  small  present, 
— a  piece  of  red  cloth,  a  few  needles,  beads,  or  other  trifling 
articles,  with  which  they  were  quite  pleased ;  and,  in  fact,  this 
was  the  ulterior  object  of  their  coming. 

We  now  proceeded  in  our  missionary  work  at  St.  Mary's 
with  satisfaction  and  comfort  ;  for  although  we  felt  the  climate 
to  be  excessively  hot,  we  had  hitherto  been  favoured  with  good 
health.  The  progress  made  by  the  children  in  the  school  was 
truly  pleasing;  and  the  results  that  followed  the  preaching 
of  the  Gospel  were  seen  in  the  additions  made  to  the  number 
of  those  that  believed,  and  excited  in  our  hearts  feelings  of 
the  liveliest  gratitude  to  Almighty  God.  Our  labour  was 
sweetened  not  only  by  the  early  fruit  which  we  were  thus 
permitted  to  behold,  but  also  by  the  continual  conviction  which 
we  felt,  that  we  were  in  the  very  place  were  God  would  have 


CHAP.    VII. —  FIRST   VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.  159 

US  to  be,  and  that  we  sliould  be  favoured  to  see  still  greater 
prosperity. 

Whilst  we  regarded  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  people  as  the 
prime  object  of  our  Mission,  we  did  not  lose  sight  of  their 
temporal  interests.      We  felt  the  importance  of  giving  them 
to   understand    the   truth   of  the    Apostle's    declaration,  that 
"  godliness  is   profitable  unto   all   things,  having  promise  of 
the  life  that  now  is,  and  of  that  which  is  to  come."  (1  Tim. 
iv.   8.)     After  the  labours  of  the  day,  and  in  the  cool  of  the 
evening,  we  frequently  visited  the  people  in  their  huts;  not 
merely  to  converse  with  them  on  the  affairs  of  their  souls,  but 
also  to  offer  them  such  suggestions  on  their  domestic  matters 
and   social   habits,    as   appeared   necessary.      They  invariably 
received    us   with   the   utmost   cordiality   and   kindness,   and 
observed  our  counsel  with  marked  respect.     When  we  called 
upon  a  few  of  our  people,  as  we  sometimes  did,  on  a  Saturday 
evening,  we  were  pleased  to  find  that  careful  preparation  had 
been  made  for  the  Sabbath ;  and  that  everything  about  their 
yards  and  dwellings  wore  the  aspect  of  cleanliness  and  comfort. 
The  result  of  these  friendly  efforts  to  elevate  our  native  converts 
in  the  scale  of  social  life,  and  to  promote  the  general  civilization 
of  the  people  of  our  charge,  was  most  gratifying.     The  difference 
between  the  natives  who  made  a  profession  of  Christianity,  and 
those  who  still  remained  in  heathen  darkness,  was  so  marked, 
that  a  stranger  visiting  the  place  could,  at  once,  distinguish 
the  character  of  the  people  from  their  personal  appearance,  and 
the  condition  of  their  dwellings.     In  these  respects  our  people 
set  an  example  to  their  Mohammedan  and  Pagan  neighbours, 
which  told   favourably  on  the   best  interests  of  the  Mission; 
inducing  many  to  come  and  hear  for  themselves  those  important 
truths  which  were  producing  such  visible  effects  on  every  hand. 
A  few  of  our  native  converts  were  free,  but  a  still  larger  number 
were  poor  slaves,  who  belonged  chiefly  to  the  European  mer- 
chants resident  at  Bathurst ;  and  I  gladly  embrace  this  oppor- 
tunity of  bearing  my  testimony  to  the  generally  kind  and  humane 
manner  in  which  they  treated  their  p  ople  in  this  colony. 


160  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

SECOND  VOYAGE  UP  THE  GAMBIA. 

MiSSiONATiY  Difficulties — Seasoning  Fever — Mandingo  War — Restoration 
of  Peace — Second  Embarkatioa  for  Macarthy's  Island — Devil's  Point 
— Jarmalicuuda — Sabbath — Doma-sang-sang — Music  and  Dancing — 
Hippopotami — Commencement  of  Macarthy's  Mission — Preaching  and 
School — Return — Dean's  Island — Native  Quarrel — Tentabar — Inci- 
dents of  Slavery — Arrival  at  St.  Mary's. 

We  cannot  expect  to  prosecute  the  great  Missionary  enter- 
prise without  having  to  encounter  numerous  obstacles.  These 
will  vary  according  to  the  peculiar  circumstances  of  different 
countries.  In  Western  Africa  we  had  no  cause  to  complain  of 
actual  hostility,  on  the  part  of  either  the  colonists  or  the  natives, 
to  the  object  of  our  Mission.  The  whole  country  was  open 
before  us ;  and  we  could  travel  where  we  pleased,  and  preach 
when  we  pleased,  without  interruption.  The  people  were  every- 
where inclined  to  be  kind  and  hospitable,  and  we  could  generally 
procure  what  we  required  without  much  difficulty.  But  we 
had,  nevertheless,  numerous  trials  to  contend  with  in  the  prose- 
cution of  our  work.  In  addition  to  the  usual  prejudices,  apathy, 
and  indifference,  which  generally  characterize  the  unenlightened 
heathen  of  all  nations,  we  had  there  to  contend  with  two  evils, 
which  manifested  themselves  in  a  peculiarly  aggravated  form  : — 
the  one,  natural ;  the  other,  moral.  I  allude  to  the  unhealthi- 
ness  of  the  climate,  and  the  propensity  of  the  natives  to  engage 
in  intestine  wars.  Difficulties,  arising  from  these  causes, 
pressed  upon  us  at  an  early  period  of  our  Mission  to  the 
Gambia,  and  delayed  for  a  time  my  second  voyage  up  the  river. 

Mrs.  Moister  w^as  first  called  to  pass  through  her  "  seasoning 
fever."  The  attack  commenced  on  Sunday  evening,  the  31st 
of  July,  1831.  I  immediately  sent  for  Dr.  Tebbs,  the  colonial 
physician,  who  administered  the  usual  remedies,  and  expressed 
a  hope  that  the  result  would  be  favourable.     She  continued 


CHAP.    VIII. SECOND    VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.  161 

very  ill  for  about  a  week,  after  which  the  fever  was  subdued 
and  she  became  convalescent.  She  had  repeated  attacks  of 
fever  after  this  ;  and,  on  one  occasion,  which  I  shall  never  for- 
get, there  appeared  to  be  little  hope  of  her  recovery  ;  but,  being 
blessed  with  a  good  sound  constitution,  and  apparently  well 
adapted  for  the  tropics,  she  endured  the  climate,  on  the  whole, 
much  better  than  most  European  females  who  have  been 
engaged  in  the  Mission  work  in  that  country. 

My  dear  partner  had  only  just  recovered  from  her  first  attack 
of  fever,  when  I  was  taken  ill  myself.  The  symptoms  were  the 
same  in  both  cases, — violent  headache,  pain  in  the  limbs,  and 
shivering  ague,  followed  with  burning  heat  through  the  whole 
system.  For  a  while  I  struggled  against  it ;  but  was  obliged 
ultimately  to  take  to  my  bed,  and  to  call  in  medical  aid.  Being 
of  a  strong  and  healthy  habit,  my  seasoning  fever  was  very 
severe.  It  continued  without  intermission  until  the  fourth  day ; 
and,  as  few  survive  the  fifth  day,  unless  there  be  a  change  for 
the  better,  considerable  apprehensions  were  entertained  for  my 
safety.  Mrs.  Moister  began  to  feel  anxious ;  Dr.  Tebbs,  and 
my  friend  Mr.  Grant,  remained  with  me  almost  constantly  ;  and 
the  dear  people  of  my  charge  held  their  meetings,  night  after 
night,  for  special  prayer  and  supplication,  that  my  life  might  be 
spared  to  the  church.  The  circumstance  just  named  was  deeply 
affecting  to  my  own  mind ;  and,  being  sensible  of  everything 
which  was  passing  around  me,  the  delightful  sound  of  prayer 
and  praise,  which  was  borne  along  on  the  midnight  breeze  from 
the  distant  place  where  the  meetings  were  held,  seemed  to  com- 
fort my  spirit,  and  to  increase  my  confidence  in  God,  that  He 
would  in  mercy  raise  me  up  again  in  answer  to  the  intercessions 
of  my  beloved  people.  In  the  afternoon  of  Sunday,  the  21st  of 
August,  the  fever  abated,  and  I  began  to  recover.  Thus  was  I 
mercifully  raised,  through  the  interposition  of  Divine  Providence, 
from  the  very  brink  of  death  ;  and  in  a  short  time  I  was  enabled 
to  go  in  and  out  before  the  congregation,  in  the  service  of  the 
sanctuary.  I  had  to  pass  through  many  scenes  of  aflliction 
after  this,  but  none  so  critical  and  dangerous.  On  a  retro- 
spective view  of  the  whole,  I  can  recognise  and  adore  the  kind 
hand  of  God ;  and  I  may  indeed  say,  with  the  poet, — 

M 


162  PART  I. WESTBEN  AFRICA. 

"  Oft  from  the  margin  of  the  grave, 

Thou,  Lord,  hast  lifted  up  my  head ; 
Suddeu  I  found  Thee  near  to  save  ; 

The  fever  own'd  Thy  touch,  and  fled." 

The  rainy  season  liad  now  fairly  set  in,  and  the  sickness  and 
mortality  among  all  classes,  especially  Europeans,  was  truly 
distressing,  and  fully  justified  the  melancholy  accounts  which 
we  had  heard  of  the  unhealthy  character  of  the  climate  before 
we  came  to  the  country. 

There  is  an  old  adage  which  says,  "  Misfortunes  seldom  come 
single-handed."  So  we  found  it  in  Western  Africa  at  the  period 
above  mentioned.  While  yet  confined  to  the  chamber  of  afflic- 
tion, we  received  the  painful  intelligence  that  a  Mandingo  war 
liad  broken  out  on  the  very  borders  of  our  settlement.  As  this 
painful  event  materially  affected  the  interests  of  our  Mission,  a 
'cw  particulars  respecting  it  may  with  propriety  now  be  given. 

!For  some  time  past,  the  natives  of  the  kingdom  of  Barra,  on 
the  northern  bank  of  the  Gambia,  opposite  St.  Mary's,  had 
manifested  a  restlessness  which  excited  some  apprehensions  in 
the  minds  of  the  colonists,  that  they  Avere  preparing  for  an  out- 
break. These  suspicions  appeared  afterwards  to  have  been 
well  founded  ;  for  they  had  fortified  the  town  of  Yassou,  by 
surrounding  it  with  a  strong  double  stockade,  and  by  making 
other  warlike  preparations.  On  Monday,  the  22nd  of  August, 
about  eight  o'clock  at  night,  two  Mandingoes  came  down  to 
Port  Bullon,  a  small  British  fort  on  Barra  Point,  directly  oppo- 
site Bathurst,  across  the  river,  about  three  miles  distant,  and 
manifested  a  disposition  to  quarrel  with  the  few  English  settlers 
that  resided  there.  They  were  arrayed  in  their  war  dresses, 
and  armed  with  muskets  and  cutlasses.  They  entered  the 
canteen  at  the  fort,  and  demanded  rum ;  but  it  was  refused, 
because  it  was  past  the  hour  of  serving.  One  of  the  men  fired 
his  musket  at  the  spirit-vendor ;  after  which  they  both  disap- 
peared, running  off  in  the  direction  of  the  native  town  from 
which  they  came. 

The  oflicer  in  charge  of  the  fort,  believing  that  there  was 
some  wicked  design  in  all  this,  and  that  the  natives  were  plan- 
ning mischief,  immediately  fired  an  alarm-gun.     This  was  dis- 


CHAP.    VIII. — SECOND    VOYAGE    TP    THE    GAMBIA.         163 

tinctly  heard  in  St.  Mary's,  and  the  Governor  dispatched  an 
officer  with  a  party  of  soldiers  forthwith,  to  protect  Fort  Bulion. 
These  were  accompanied  by  a  number  of  seamen,  Captains  of 
vessels,  and  other  persons,  who  volunteered  their  services  on  the 
occasion.  On  arriving  at  Barra  Point,  and  hearing  of  the  out- 
rage which  had  been  committed  by  the  two  Mandingoes,  they 
marched  up  at  once  to  Yassou,  the  residence  of  the  King,  and 
incautiously  commenced  firing  upon  the  town,  although  they 
saw  that  it  was  in  a  position  of  complete  defence.  They  had 
no  sooner  done  this,  than  the  natives  poured  out  upon  them 
like  a  hive  of  bees,  being  evidently  prepared  for  the  attack. 
The  few  English  found  it  necessary  to  retire  to  the  fort,  havmg 
already  lost  some  of  their  number.  They  were  hotly  pursued 
by  the  Mandino-oes ;  and  so  unequal  was  the  struggle,  that  the 
fort  was  ultimately  abandoned,  and  the  whole  of  the  colomsts 
made  for  the  boats.  Those  who  succeeded  in  reaching  them 
put  off  from  the  shore,  ani  made  their  escape;  but  several 
failed,  and  were  massacred  on  the  beach  by  the  natives,  who 
pursued  them  in  overpowering  numbers  into  the  deep  waters. 

All  this  occurred  during  the  night;  and  the  news  which 
^reached  St  Mary's  the  next  morning,  produced  the  greatest 
consternation  and  dismay.  Wives  were  heard  weeping  and 
lamenting  the  loss  of  their  husbands;  and  parents  were 
anxiously  inquiring  for  those  of  their  children  who  were  miss- 
in  «• ;  presenting  altogether  such  a  scene  of  misery  as  I  hope 
never  a-ain  to  witness.  Among  those  who  fell  in  this  contest, 
was  the°  Captain  of  an  English  vessel  just  arrived  from  Liver- 
pool, whom  the  natives  had  mistaken  for  the  Governor.  On 
finding  his  body  afterwards  among  the  slain,  they  cut  oE  his 
head,  and  erected  it  upon  a  pole  as  a  monument  of  their  cruel 

■victory.  . 

Not  to  detain  the  reader  longer  than  necessary  on  a  subject 
of  such  painful  interest,  I  may  briefly  remark,  that  the  war  which 
was  thus  commenced  contimied  nearly  five  months;  during 
which  we  were  kept  in  a  state  of  constant  anxiety,  arismg  from 
the  apprehension  that  the  enemy  might  at  any  time  take 
possession  of  the  island,  when  our  doom  vrould  be  sealed.  Ihe 
circumstances  of  this  war  were  rendered  more  alarmmg  by  its 

M  2 


164  PART    I. WESTERN"    AFRICA. 

proximity  to  the  settlement ;  the  scene  of  action  being-  only  just 
across  the  river,  and  within  three  miles  of  the  Mission-House. 
Night  after  night  we  stood  on  the  piazza  in  front  of  our 
residence,  and  beheld  the  flames  ascending  from  the  buildings 
connected  with  Fort  Bullon,  on  Barra  Point,  the  whole  of  which 
were  destroyed  by  fire  when  taken  by  the  enemy.  Then 
followed  the  noise  and  commotion  occasioned  by  a  preparation 
on  the  part  of  the  English  for  the  defence  of  the  colony,  and 
for  making  an  attack  upon  the  enemy,  so  soon  as  a  favourable 
opportunity  should  oifer.  All  who  could  carry  arms  were 
drilled,  and  enrolled  in  a  militia  force ;  a  strong  stockade  was 
erected  across  the  island  near  to  Batlmrst ;  and  a  new  fort  was 
built  in  a  commanding  situation  just  behind  the  Mission-House. 
Sentinels  were  also  appointed  to  keep  a  strict  look-out,  and  to 
walk  the  streets  during  the  night,  that  they  might  give  an 
alarm,  in  case  the  enemy  should  a^ttempt  to  land  on  the  island. 
Mrs.  Moister  and  her  school  girls  were  busily  employed  in  making 
sand  bags,  for  the  erection  of  moveable  batteries  ;  and,  indeed, 
the  services  of  every  person  who  could  render  any  assistance 
were  required  in  the  common  defence  of  the  settlement.  Even 
the  native  women  and  children  carried  stones  for  the  erection  of 
the  new  fort,  singing,  and  clapping  their  hands,  as  they  walked 
along  with  their  loads  upon  their  heads,  in  a  manner  which 
showed  their  enthusiastic  and  loyal  attachment  to  the  British 
Government. 

These  warlike  preparations  were  not  only  unpleasant  to  our 
feelings,  but  they  greatly  obstructed  the  work  of  the  Mission.  Our 
native  teachers  and  male  members  were  nearly  all  engaged  in  the 
drill,  or  on  the  public  works,  whilst  the  schools  were  irregularly 
attended,  and  the  congregations  very  small.  Amidst  the  gloom 
and  confusion  which  prevailed  around  us,  we  were  not  left 
entirely  without  consolation.  There  were  still  remaining  on  the 
station  a  few  pious  devoted  natives,  chiefly  females,  who  assem- 
bled with  us  from  time  to  time  in  the  sanctuary,  where  we 
ofi'ered  fervent  and  incessant  prayers  to  Almighty  God,  that  He 
would  "  give  us  help  from  trouble ;  "  and,  by  His  overruling 
Providence,  cause  our  present  difficulties  to  issue  in  the 
liirtherance  of  the  Gospel. 


CHAP.    VIII. — SECOND    VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.         165 

In  the  month  of  November,  a  French  man-of-Avar  came  to  our 
assistance  ;  and  an  attempt  was  made  to  land  a  company  of 
soldiers  on  Barra  Point,  witli  a  view  to  re-take  the  fort ;  but 
the  enemy  were  found  so  strongly  intrenched,  and  so  well 
defended,  tliat  this  object  could  not  be  accomplished  without  a 
stronger  force.  Additional  aid  was  therefore  called  in  from 
Senegal,  Sierra  Leone,  and  other  parts  of  the  coast ;  and  on  the 
10th  of  December,  when  the  season  had  become  more  favour- 
able for  military  operations,  a  movement  was  made  for  a  grand 
attack  upon  the  enemy.  In  the  afternoon,  twenty 'vessels  of 
various  kinds,  including  two  or  three  regular  men-of-war, 
weighed  anchor,  and  sailed  across  the  river,  having  on  board  a 
force  of  about  five  hundred  men.  During  the  night,  shells  were 
occasionally  thrown  from  the  sliips  into  the  Mandingo  intrencb- 
ments  ;  and  as  the  scene  of  action  was  so  near  our  residence,  we 
could  distinctly  see  the  flashes  of  light  that  attended  the 
discharge  of  the  mortars.  We  took  but  little  rest ;  and  spent 
the  night  in  alternately  watching  the  proceedings  of  the  hostile 
parties,  and  in  earnest  supplications  to  God  that  these  dis- 
astrous events  might  speedily  be  terminated,  and  be  ultimately 
overruled  for  the  greater  extension  of  His  kingdom.  At  day- 
break on  the  morning  of  the  11th,  the  soldiers,  under  the 
command  of  Captain  Berwick,  effected  a  landing,  being  pro- 
tected by  a  heavy  fire  from  H.M.S.  "Plumper,"  after  a  severe 
contest  with  the  natives,  in  which  considerable  loss  was  sus- 
tained on  both  sides,  in  killed  and  wounded.  The  roaring  of 
cannon,  and  the  firing  of  musketry,  continued  during  the  day  ; 
and  we,  who  remained  on  the  island,  felt  anxious  to  know  the 
result.  Towards  evening  a  messenger  arrived,  bringing  the 
intelligence  that  the  Mandingoes  had  been  completely  routed, 
and  driven  into  the  woods ;  and  as  the  smoke  cleared  away  we 
beheld  with  delight  the  British  flag  once  more  waving  over 
Barra  Point.  There  was  a  general  manifestation  of  joy  through- 
out the  settlement,  as  a  speedy  termination  of  hostilities  might 
now  be  fairly  anticipated.  This  feeling  of  joy  soon  subsided, 
however,  and,  in  some  instances  gave  place  to  sorrow  and 
anguish,  as  boat  after  boat  came  across  the  river,  filled  with  the 
dead  and  the  wounded.     Then  were  heard  again  the  mourning 


166  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

and  lamentations  of  wives,  mothers,  and  sisters,  for  those  who 
had  fallen  in  the  battle. 

Being  the  only  Christian  Minister  in  the  country,  and  having 
been  previously  appointed  by  the  Governor  to  the  office  of 
acting  Colonial  Chaplain,  in  the  absence  of  the  Clergyman 
filling  that  office,  I  was  now  employed  from  morning  till  night 
in  visiting  the  sick  and  wounded  in  the  hospital,  and  in  burying 
the  dead.  In  performing  these  duties,  I  was  favoured  with 
some  pleasing  indications  that  my  labour  was  not  in  vain. 
Many  a  poor  dying  fellow-countryman,  as  well  as  native  Africans, 
was  I  enabled  to  point  to  the  Lamb  of  God  that  taketh  away 
the  sins  of  the  world.  Among  these  was  Lieutenant  Leigh,  an 
intelligent  young  officer,  who  had  received  a  mortal  wound  in 
his  head  from  a  musket  ball.  During  his  confinement  in  the 
house  of  the  colonial  surgeon,  after  he  was  brought  over  from 
the  scene  of  conflict,  I  visited  him  frequently,  and  I  was 
thankful  to  find  him  in  a  humble,  penitent  state  of  mind, 
earnestly  desiring  religious  counsel.  His  sufferings  soon 
terminated  in  death ;  and  he  was  called  away,  meekly  trusting 
iu  the  great  atonement.  Almost  his  last  words  were,  "  0,  tell 
my  mother  that  I  had  a  Minister  to  pray  with  me  in  my  dying 
moments."  On  the  following  Sabbath,  I  endeavoured  to 
console  and  encourage  the  few  people  who  remained  in  the 
settlement,  by  preaching  from  Psalm  Ivii.  1 :  "In  the  shadow 
of  Thy  wings  will  I  make  my  refuge,  until  these  calamities  be 
overpast." 

Although  the  Mandingoes  were  dispersed,  and  driven  from 
their  intrenchments  on  the  Point,  they  were  not  entirely 
vanquished,  as  at  first  supposed.  It  was  soon  found  that  they 
had  only  retired  to  Yassou,  the  capital  of  their  country,  which 
was  strongly  fortified.  On  Thursday,  the  1 7th,  the  British 
troops,  having  fortified  their  encampment  on  the  Point,  moved 
forward,  and  made  an  attack  upon  Yassou,  hoping  to  reduce 
the  enemy  to  entire  submission.  In  consequence  of  various 
untoward  circumstances,  as  the  want  of  a  sufficient  supply  of 
ammunition,  and  the  breaking  down  of  gan-carriages,  this 
attempt  proved  an  entire  failure.  Not  only  were  the  natives 
vastly  superior  to  the  colonists  in  numbers,  but  their  mode  of- 


CHAP.    VIII. — SECOND    VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.  167 

warfare  was  peculiar  and  irregular ;  consisting  in  ambuscades, 
fii'ing  from  behind  the  trees,  and  then  scampering  off,  and 
other  stratagems  peculiar  to  savage  warfare ;  so  that  the 
English,  finding  themselves  engaged  in  an  unequal  struggle, 
were  obliged  to  return  to  their  encampment,  with  a  loss  of 
eleven  killed,  and  fifty-nine  wounded,  several  of  whom  died 
shortly  afterwards. 

While  the  English  were  preparing  for  a  more  vigorous 
attack  upon  Yassou,  the  Mandingoes  came  with  a  fiag  of  truce, 
and  requested  that  the  war  might  cease.  In  view  of  our 
feeble  state  as  a  colony,  surrounded  by  a  dense  population 
of  warlike  savages,  the  authorities  were  but  too  glad  to 
comply  with  the  request,  if  it  could  be  done  on  honourable 
terms.  Conditions  of  peace  were  therefore  proposed  and 
agreed  to  by  both  parties;  and  on  Thursday,  the  5th  of 
January,  1832,  Governor  Eendal  invited  me  to  accompany 
him  and  his  suite,  to  be  present  at  the  signing  and  ratifica- 
tion of  the  treaty  of  peace,  at  Barra  Point.  The  forms  belong- 
ing to  our  school-room  were  carried  over  in  boats,  and  placed 
in  order  under  the  "  palaver  tree,"  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  heads  of  departments  ;  and  after  we  had  waited  for  some 
time.  King  Bruma  made  his  appearance,  attended  by  his 
councillors,  and  about  two  thousand  of  his  warriors.  They 
were  all  armed  and  aiTayed  in  their  war  dresses ;  and,  as  we 
walked  along  the  ranks,  they  were  anxious  to  shake  hands  with 
us.  The  native  soldiers  seated  themselves  on  the  ground,  in 
a  large  circle,  of  three  or  four  deep  ;  while  the  King  and  his 
councillors,  and  the  Governor  and  his  officers,  took  their  places 
on  the  forms  under  the  tree.  It  was  an  imposing  sight,  never 
to  be  forgotten.  After  a  few  words  of  explanation,  and  a 
solemn  admonition  as  to  their  future  conduct,  the  treaty,  which 
had  been  previously  prepared,  was  read,  signed,  sealed,  and 
delivered.  This  treaty  secured  among  other  things  the  cession 
to  the  English  of  a  track  of  land  along  the  northern  bank  of 
the  river,  as  well  as  the  giving  up  of  a  brass  cannon,  which  it 
was  believed  the  natives  had  obtained  from  a  Erench  settlement. 
At  the  close  of  the  ceremony  the  firing  of  guns  and  the  loud 
acclamations  of  the  people  were  expressive  of  the  joy  which 


168  PAET  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

universally  prevailed  on  the  occasion.  I  returned  home  in  the 
evening  truly  thankful  for  the  termination  of  this  distressing 
war,  which  had  caused  the  loss  of  so  many  lives,  and  been 
such  a  serious  impediment  to  our  missionary  labours.  His 
Excellency  the  Governor  soon  afterwards  appointed  a  day 
of  public  thanksgiving,  which  was  well  observed  by  all  classes 
of  the  community.  I  preached  to  a  large  congregation,  from 
Psalm  xcvii.  1 :  "  The  Lord  reigneth :  let  the  earth  rejoice : 
let  the  multitude  of  the  isles  be  glad  thereof." 

Peace  was  no  sooner  restored  in  the  country  than  our  Mission 
and  school  at  St.  Mary's  assumed  their  usual  pleasing  aspect ; 
and  we  were  again  favoured  with  prosperity  in  every  depart- 
ment of  our  work.  Access  also  being  once  more  afforded  to 
the  interior,  I  began  to  prepare  for  my  intended  visit  to 
Macarthy's  Island,  which  had  been  hitherto  delayed  entirely  on 
account  of  the  war. 

Having  made  the  necessary  arrangements  for  carrying  on 
the  work  at  St.  Mary's  in  my  absence,  and  obtained  the 
sanction  of  his  Excellency  the  Governor,  on  Thursday,  the 
8tli  of  March,  1832,  I  commenced  my  second  voyage  up  the 
Gambia.  On  this  occasion  I  took  with  me  John  Cupidon, 
one  of  the  Native  Assistant  Missionaries,  and  a  supply  of  books, 
and  school  requisites,  with  a  view  to  the  commencement  of 
a  Mission  at  Macarthy's  Island.  I  also  took,  as  an  attendant 
and  interpreter,  my  favourite  little  black  boy.  Petty,  who  had 
been  living  with  us  for  some  time,  and  attending  the  Mission 
school.  Though  not  more  than  ten  or  eleven  years  of  age, 
this  little  fellow  was  remarkably  clever  and  intelligent.  He 
could  read  his  Bible  with  fluency,  write  a  good  hand,  and  speak 
three  or  four  different  languages.  He  was  very  useful  in 
preparing  my  food,  as  well  as  in  attending  to  other  little  matters 
during  our  travels  ;  and  he  scarcely  ever  failed  to  interpret 
accurately,  when  I  wished  to  hold  a  conversation  with  the 
natives.  He  was,  moreover,  a  pleasing  instance  of  early  piety ; 
and  by  his  amiability  and  general  good  conduct  he  endeared 
himself  to  all  wlio  knew  him. 

We  sailed  in  Mr.  Grant's  new  cutter,  the  "Highlander;" 
and  were  accompanied  by  two  or  three  merchants,  who  were 


CHAP.    VIII. —  SECOND    VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.       169 

on  tlieir  way  to  the  upper  river,  to  make  arrangements  witli 
the  native  Chiefs,  for  the  opening  up  of  new  channels  of 
commerce.  The  weather  was  delightfully  fine,  the  company 
was  agreeable,  and  we  commenced  our  journey  animated  with 
pleasing  prospects  of  success  in  our  respective  projects.  For 
the  first  day  or  two  the  wind  was  contrary,  and  we  made  but 
little  progress. 

While  travelling  in  Western  Africa,  we  met  with  numerous 
instances  of  the  spiritual  darkness  and  moral  degradation  of 
the  native  tribes,  both  jMohammedan  and  Pagan ;  and  the 
experience  of  every  day  demonstrates  the  fact,  that  the  people 
are  *'  sitting  in  darkness,  and  in  the  shadow  of  death."  Among 
other  fearful  proofs  of  the  depths  of  ignorance  to  which  the 
natives  are  sunk,  we  met  with  frequent  instances  of  devil' 
worship.  On  proceeding  up  the  Gambia,  about  two  days'  sail 
from  St.  Mary's,  there  is  u  place  called  Devil's  Point,  which 
ws  reached  on  Friday  evening ;  on  passing  which,  the  native 
Captains  of  vessels  almost  invariably  present  an  ottering  to  his 
Satanic  majesty.  The  ottering  consists  of  a  small  portion  of 
every  eatable  article  in  the  ship's  cargo.  They  have  a  strange 
superstitious  notion  that  the  prince  of  darkness  has  his  special 
residence  under  this  point  of  land ;  and  that  he  stretches  out 
his  long  arms  beneath  the  waters  to  receive  the  otterings  of  his 
worshippers.  Being  thus  kindly  propitiated,  they  imagine  that 
the  devil  will  do  them  no  harm  during  the  whole  of  the 
voyage  up  and  down  the  river.  When  will  this  deluded  people 
learn  to  trust  in  the  true  and  loving  God  ? 

In  the  course  of  this  journey  I  had  an  opportunity  of  calling 
at  many  places  on  the  banks  of  the  Gambia,  which  I  did  not 
visit  on  my  first  voyage  up  the  river.  One  of  these  was  Jarma- 
licunda,  where  we  went  on  shore,  on  the  morning  of  Saturday, 
the  10th.  This  place  is  situated  in  a  beautiful  open  part  of  the 
country,  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  river ;  and  the  ground  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  town  was  cleared  and  cultivated  to  a 
greater  extent  than  usual.  Here  we  visited  the  ruins  of  a  large 
mercantile  establishment,  erected  many  years  ago ;  but,  as  it 
did  not  answer  the  expectations  of  the  proprietor,  it  was  allowed 
to  go  to  decay.   At  this  village  I  was  introduced  to  two  coloured 


170  PART    I. — WESTEEN   AFRICA. 

females  of  superior  intelligence  in  regard  to  the  tilings  of  this 
world ;  but,  on  speaking  to  them  on  the  subject  of  religion,  I 
was  sorry  to  fmd  them  as  dark  and  ignorant  as  the  slaves  by 
whom  they  were  surrounded.  Though  rigid  Mohammedans, 
they  nevertheless  listened  attentively  to  my  remarks  on  the 
superior  claims  of  the  Gospel ;  and  the  result  of  our  conversa- 
tion must  be  left  to  Him  without  whose  blessing  all  our  labours 
are  in  vain. 

On  the  following  day,  which  was  the  Sabbath,  we  came  to 
anchor  early,  that  arrangements  might  be  made  for  public  wor- 
ship. The  sailors  put  up  an  awning,  to  screen  us  from  the 
scorching  rays  of  the  sun  ;  and  I  read  prayers,  and  preached  to  a 
small  but  attentive  congregation.  The  solemnity  of  this  reli- 
gious service  was  enhanced  by  the  recollection  of  the  fact,  that, 
whilst  we  were  thus  engaged  in  the  worship  of  the  true  and 
living  God,  the  surrounding  country  was  involved  in  the  gross- 
est heathenism.  This  was  indeed  a  day  of  spiritual  blessing, 
although  our  humble  offering  was  presented  to  the  Lord  in  a 
locality  so  far  from  the  abodes  of  civilized  men. 

On  Monday  morning,  the  12th,  before  daylight,  we  manned 
a  canoe,  and  a  party  of  us  set  out  for  Doma-sang-sang,  leaving 
the  cutter  to  pursue  her  course.  At  this  place,  Mr.  Eiley,  one 
of  our  party,  had  a  mercantile  establishment.  On  passing* 
Elephant  Island  by  the  northern  channel,  we  met  a  native 
canoe,  with  six  men,  and  were  much  amused  witb  their  novel 
mode  of  sailing.  They  were  floating  down  the  river  with  the 
ebb-tide  and  a  moderate  breeze  in  their  favour ;  and  to  accele- 
rate their  progress,  tliey  had  struck  a  large  branch  of  a  tree  in 
the  centre  of  the  canoe,  on  which  the  wind  acted  as  a  sail ;  and 
they  were  gliding  along  at  a  rapid  rate,  without  troubling  them- 
selves with  the  paddles.  We  soon  left  the  main  branch  of  the 
Gambia,  and  ascended  a  long  narrow  creek  on  the  southern  side 
of  the  river.  "We  had  a  fine  prospect  on  either  hand,  the  country 
being  more  open  than  usual ;  and  we  saw  large  flocks  of  guinea- 
fowls  and  crown-birds  iiying  about  in  every  direction.  About 
two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  Doma-sang-sang,  a 
small  village  nearly  at  the  top  of  the  creek.  Here  we  met  with 
Mrs.  Riley  and  her  little  daughter,  awaiting  the  arrival  of  Mr. 


CHAP.   VIII. — SECOND    VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.         l7l 

Hiley  ;  and  we  were  treated  with  great  kindness  and  hospitality. 
When  we  had  partaken  of  a  substantial  dinner,  the  natives  presented 
us  with  a  large  calabash  of  new  milk,  which  was  truly  accept- 
able, the  day  being  hot  and  sultiy.  Behind  the  village  there  is 
a  curious  conical-shaped  hill,  from  the  top  of  which  an  extensive 
and  delightful  prospect  presents  itself  to  the  view.*  In  the 
evening  we  witnessed  a  specimen  of  the  native  music  and  danc- 
ing, which  was  rude  and  barbarous  in  the  extreme.  The  Negroes 
went  through  the  most  strange  and  eccentric  evolutions,  and 
they  danced  till  they  were  quite  exhausted,  and  then  fell  back 
into  the  arras  of  their  friends,  and  made  way  for  others,  by 
whom  they  were  immediately  succeeded.  The  music  was 
nothing  more  than  a  rude  drum,  called  the  tom-tom,  a  kind  of 
tambourine,  and  a  triangle.  At  a  late  hour  of  the  night,  when 
the  tide  served,  we  entered  the  canoe,  and  paddled  down  the 
creek.  It  was  a  beautiful  moonlight  night ;  and  before  day- 
break in  the  morning  we  joined  the  cutter,  which  we  found  at 
anchor  in  the  river,  awaiting  our  return,  according  to  previous 
arrangement. 

On  Tuesday,  the  13th,  the  weather  was  excessively  hot ;  and 
while  the  vessel  was  in  motion,  we  had  no  means  of  screening 
ourselves  from  the  piercing  rays  of  the  sun.  In  the  afternoon 
we  came  to  anchor  at  Cower,  where  the  vessel  had  to  discharge 
a  part  of  her  cargo.  As  the  native  traders  were  ready  to  take 
charge  of  it,  this  was  soon  done ;  and  we  proceeded  on  our 
voyage  with  the  next  flowing  tide. 

*  When  labouring  in  the  island  of  Grenada,  in  the  West  Indies,  many 
years  afterwards,  I  was  acquainted  with  a  poor  old  blind  woman,  named 
Cumba,  who  in  early  life  had  been  brought  as  a  slave  from  the  Gambia. 
After  she  had  heard  that  I  had  been  in  Africa,  she  was  always  anxious  to 
talk  with  me  about  her  country  ;  and  when  I  mentioned  Doma-sang-saug, 
which  it  appeared  was  her  native  place,  and  described  the  conical  hill  behind 
the  village,  from  the  top  of  which  an  extensive  view  is  obtained  of  the  sur- 
rounding country,  she  clapped  her  hands  in  joyous  transport,  and  exclaimed, 
"  God  bless  you,  my  dear  Massa  Minister !  Now  me  know  you  beeu  to  me 
country  for  true,  or  else  you  cannot  tell  all  about  it  so."  She  was  a  truly 
pious  person,  and  it  delighted  her  beyond  measure  to  hear  that  the  Gospel 
of  Christ,  which  had  made  her  so  happy,  was  taking  root  in  her  dark  be- 
nighted native  land ;  and  she  was  incessant  in  her  inquiries  as  to  how  the 
good  work  was  progressing  in  Africa. 


172  PART   I. — WESTERN    AFKICA. 

The  wind  was  contrary  all  day  on  Wednesday,  the  14th,  and 
we  made  but  little  progress.  In  the  afternoon  we  caught  a 
curious  green  snake  in  the  river,  about  two  feet  long,  which  I 
preserved  in  a  bottle  of  spirits.  We  also  met  with  large  num- 
bers of  hippopotami,  or  river-horses.  These  huge  animals  are 
very  numerous  in  the  Gambia.  They  rank  next  in  size  to  the 
elephant,  which  they  much  resemble  in  their  form;  but  they 
are  amphibious,  generally  spending  the  night  on  shore,  and  the 
day  in  the  water.  Early  in  the  morning,  as  they  return  from 
their  nocturnal  depredations,  they  may  be  heard  splashing  into 
the  river  from  the  banks,  on  either  hand ;  and  at  short  intervals 
during  the  day  they  come  to  the  surface  of  the  water  to  blow 
like  the  whale.  The  noise  which  they  make  at  such  times  is 
frequently  most  awful,  resembling  the  sound  of  distant  thunder. 
They  are  rather  dangerous  neighbours  to  those  who  sail  in 
canoes  or  small  boats ;  and  I  have  known  a  hippopotamus  to 
strike  its  large  tusks  through  the  bottom  of  a  small  vessel,  and 
thereby  endanger  the  crew  and  the  cargo.  The  tusks  are  said 
to  be  more  valuable  than  those  of  the  elephant,  being  of  a 
harder  texture,  and  used  as  a  superior  kind  of  ivory. 

On  the  morning  of  Thursday,  the  15tli,  we  passed  Cassang, 
and  one  of  the  natives  came  off  to  beg  as  usual.  During  the 
day  we  made  but  little  progress,  the  wind  being  very  light,  and 
the  flowing  tide  not  very  strong  at  that  season  of  the  year  in 
this  part  of  the  river.  Although  the  water  of  the  river  at  this 
distance  from  the  sea  is  influenced  by  the  tide,  it  is  nevertheless 
quite  fresh  and  fit  to  drink,  as  the  salt  water,  while  it  forces  the 
fresh  v/ater  up  the  river  on  the  flowing  of  tlie  tide,  does  not  mix 
with  it  to  any  considerable  distance. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  Eriday,  the  IGtli,  we  came  in  sight 
of  Macarthy's  Island  ;  and  about  nine  o'clock  a.m.  we  anchored 
off  George  Town,  and  went  on  shore  immediately.  Many  of 
the  natives  remembered  my  former  visit,  and  flocked  around  me 
with  smiling  faces  to  welcome  my  arrival.  They  had  heard  of 
the  war  which  prevented  my  coming  at  an  earlier  period  ;  and 
were  now  delighted  to  find  that  I  had  brought  them  a  Teacher, 
and  made  arrangements  for  the  establishment  of  a  permanent 
Mission  among  them.     My  friend,  Lieutenant  W.  Shaw,  having 


CHAP.   Till. — SECOND    YOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.         173 

left  the  island,  I  took  possession  of  his  hut,  which  was  unoccu- 
pied, unfurnished,  and  much  dilapidated.  It  required  some 
contrivance  to  "  make  shift,"  under  these  circumstances,  during 
my  brief  sojourn.  An  old  window-shutter,  placed  horizontally 
on  the  top  of  an  empty  flour  barrel,  served  for  a  table,  on  which 
I  placed  an  empty  bottle  as  a  candlestick  ;  while  a  kind-hearted 
native,  who  had  in  his  possession  a  "white  man's  chair,"  cheer- 
fully lent  it  to  me  during  my  stay.  With  other  articles  of 
greater  importance  I  was  pretty  well  supplied ;  as  I  always 
carried  with  me  a  stock  of  bread,  tea,  coffee,  sugar,  and  other 
necessary  items  for  furnishing  my  table  in  the  wilderness  :  and 
being  accompanied  by  my  favourite  Negro  boy,  to  prepare  my 
food,  and  act  as  interpreter,  I  felt  that  I  was  more  highly 
favoured  than  many  other  Missionaries  who  had  been  engaged 
in  a  similar  pioneer  work.  Eut  when  night  came,  I  was  some- 
wdiat  perplexed  as  to  how  I  should  arrange  for  the  sleeping 
department.  The  interior  of  the  dilapidated  hut  looked  cold 
and  damp,  from  having  been  so  long  uninhabited ;  I  therefore 
resolved  to  sleep  outside,  under  an  open  shed  in  the  yard.  On 
looking  round,  I  saw  an  old  gate,  which  I  took  from  its  hinges, 
propped  up  with  stones  to  keep  it  from  the  damp  ground, 
spread  my  mattress  upon  it,  and  slept  upon  it  very  comfortably. 
It  is  true,  that  on  awaking  the  first  night  I  saw,  by  the  light 
of  the  moon,  two  or  three  large  lizards  crawling  very  near  me ; 
but  these  reptiles  are  quite  harmless.  I  soon  composed  myself 
to  rest  again,  and  slept  soundly  till  morning.  This  rude  con- 
trivance for  lodging  and  living  served  my  purpose  very  well 
during  my  stay  in  the  island. 

The  next  day,  I  visited  every  house  in  the  settlement,  and 
informed  the  people  of  the  arrangements  I  had  made  with, 
reference  to  the  Mission  :  at  the  same  time  I  took  a  census  of 
the  population,  according  to  the  request  of  the  Governor,  on  my 
departure  from  St.  Mary's.  The  inhabitants  of  George  Town 
amounted  to  about  two  hundred,  professedly  British  subjects ; 
but  the  Mandingo  town,  at  a  short  distance,  to  which  I  could 
not  get  access  for  this  purpose,  is  much  more  populous. 

On  Sunday  morning,  the  18th,  I  preached  to  a  large  and 
attentive  conoregation  from  Luke  ii.  10  :  "  Behold,  I  bring  you 


174  PART   I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

good  tidings  of  great  joy,  which  shall  be  to  all  people."  And, 
in  the  evening,  Brother  Cupidon  preached  from  Matt.  iii.  3  : 
"  Eepent  ye,  for  the  kingdom  of  heaven  is  at  hand."  This  was 
a  most  delightful  Sabbath, — a  day  long  to  be  remembered ;  and 
I  was  induced  to  hope  and  believe  that  the  word  preached  would 
be  as  "bread  cast  upon  the  waters,  seen  after  many  days." 

I  arose  early  next  morning,  and  walked  round  the  settlement 
with  the  acting  Commandant,  a  black  man,  to  look  out  for  a 
suitable  piece  of  ground  for  the  erection  of  temporary  Mission 
premises ;  but  every  site  which  I  thought  eligible  was  already 
taken  up,  and  more  or  less  occupied  with  native  huts.  We  met, 
however,  with  a  person  who  was  willing  to  dispose  of  his  lot  of 
land,  with  a  quantity  of  building  materials  already  prepared.  I 
therefore  made  a  purchase  of  the  whole,  and  immediately  em- 
ployed workmen  to  erect  a  humble  sanctuary  and  other  temporary 
buildings,  so  as  to  afford  accommodation  for  the  congregation 
and  school,  with  apartments  for  the  Native  Teacher. 

Our  next  undertaking  was  the  commencement  of  the  Mission 
school.  We  collected  a  number  of  little  black  children,  and 
made  the  first  attempt  at  teaching  in  an  old  dilapidated  building 
belonging  to  the  government,  till  our  own  premises  were  com- 
pleted. We  found  the  children  in  their  native  wildness,  and 
running  about  in  a  state  of  complete  nudity  ;  but  we  soon  fur- 
nished them  with  a  few  articles  of  wearing  apparel,  which  had 
been  kindly  supplied  by  the  friends  of  Missions  in  England; 
and  the  little  people  became  accustomed  to  the  discipline  of  the 
school  much  more  readily  than  we  expected. 

Having  put  every  thing  in  train  connected  with  the  formation  of 
this  new  station,  and  being  anxious  to  return  to  St.  Mary's  with 
as  little  delay  as  possible,  where  several  matters  of  importance 
required  my  presence,  I  took  my  departure  on  the  evening  of 
Tuesday,  the  30th ;  leaving  John  Cupidon,  my  Native  Assistant, 
in  charge  of  the  school  and  infant  Mission  at  Macarthy's  Island. 
Poor  Cupidon  felt  acutely  at  the  idea  of  behig  left  alone ;  but  after 
we  had  spent  a  short  time  in  conversation  and  prayer,  we  were 
obliged  to  part.  I  then  went  on  board  a  small  sloop  called  the 
*'  Eliza,"  belonging  to  my  friend  Mr.  Brown ;  and,  after  weigh- 
ing anchor,  we  rapidly  descended  the  river,  having  a  fair  wind 


CHAP.    VIII. — SECOND    VOYAGE    UP   THE    GAMBIA.  175 

aiul  a  strong  ebbing  tide.  The  accommodations  on  board  this 
little  vessel  were  very  limited  ;  and,  every  foot  of  available  space 
below  being  filled  up  with  corn  and  other  cargo,  I  was  obliged 
to  stretch  my  weary  limbs  on  deck  without  any  shelter  from  the 
dew  of  the  night  or  the  heat  of  the  day  ;  but  I  was  mercifully 
preserved  from  all  harm  and  danger. 

On  the  morning  of  Wednesday,  the  21st,  we  went  on  shore 
for  a  few  minutes  at  Dean's  Island ;  and  in  tlie  afternoon  we 
landed  at  Cower.  I  was  sorry  to  find  at  the  place  last  men- 
tioned that  there  had  been  some  disturbance  among  the  natives. 
It  is  in  this  neighbourhood  that  the  Mandingo  country  borders 
on  that  of  the  Jallofi's;  and  the  two  tribes  inhabiting  the  dis- 
trict situated  between  the  Gambia  and  the  Senegal  are  frequently 
at  variance  with  each  other.  Several  of  the  Mandingoes  be- 
longing to  Cower  had  removed  their  goods  from  the  town,  and 
were  ass  embled  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  ready  to  take  their 
departure  in  the  canoes  which  they  had  prepared  for  the  pui-pose. 
We  had  no  time  to  inquire  into  the  precise  nature  of  their 
quarrel,  and  could  only  give  them  a  little  friendly  advice,  and 
express  our  regret  that,  in  this  dark,  benighted  region,  the 
Gospel  of  the  Prince  of  Peace  is  unknown.  On  leaving  Cower, 
we  proceeded  down  the  river;  and,  in  the  afternoon,  I  met  with. 
'Captain  Chown,  in  his  own  vessel,  by  whom  I  received  letters 
and  a  supply  of  stores  from  my  dear  wife  in  St.  Mary's.  This 
was  the  only  opportunity  that  I  had  of  hearing  from  home 
during  the  whole  journey. 

I  was  thankful  that  we  had  not  many  places  to  call  at  on 
descending  the  Gambia  on  this  occasion,  as  the  vessel  was 
exceedingly  small  and  uncomfortable ;  and  I  was,  moreover, 
anxious  to  get  home,  where  I  knew  the  duties  of  my  Station 
required  my  presence.  During  the  whole  day  on  Thursday,  the 
22nd,  we  kept  our  little  craft  under  weigh,  and  glided  rapidly 
down  the  centre  of  the  stream  without  any  interruption.  The 
vessel  being  full  of  cargo,  our  Captain  had  no  inducement  to 
traffic  with  the  natives,  and  those  who  came  on  board  merely 
to  solicit  presents  were  soon  dismissed. 

On  Priday,  the  23rd,  we  went  on  shore  at  Tentabar,  where 
Tve  saw  Mr.  A ,  a  merchant  from  St.  Mary's,  who  informed 


176  PART   I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

US  of  the  wreck  of  Mr.  J 's  brig-,  on  her  voj^age  from  Sierra 

Leone.  The  history  of  the  two  individuals  just  mentioned  is 
very  remarkable,  and  strikingly  illustrative  of  the  vicissitudes 
to  which  the  natives  are  subject  in  this  country,  where  slavery 

has  so  long  prevailed.    Mr.  J was  originally  a  poor  African, 

of  the  class  called  soninJcles.  When  young,  he  used  to  visit  the 
towns  and  villages  on  the  banks  of  the  Gambia,  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  place  where  he  lived,  for  the  purpose  of  playing, 
singing,  and  dancing,  for  the  amusement  of  the  people.  On 
one  of  these  excursions,  he  was  captured  by  a  party  of  "  men- 
stealers,"  and  sold  as  a  slave.  After  passing  through  the  hands 
of  several  slave-merchants,  he  was  ultimately  purchased  by  Mr. 

A •,  a  respectable  man  of  colour,  who  soon  afterwards  sold 

him  to  the  Captain  of  an  American  vessel  then  in  the  harbour, 
who  took  him  aero  ss  the  Atlantic.     On  landing  in  America,  it 

was  soon  discovered  that  J ,  although  a  slave,  was  possessed 

of  superior  mental  abilities,  and  he  was  consequently  placed,  by 
the  gentleman  who  purchased  him,  in  a  position  of  confidence. 
By  his  steady  and  upright  conduct  he  fully  established  himself 
in  the  favour  of  his  new  master,  who  conferred  upon  him 
numerous  privileges  not  generally  enjoyed  by  those  who  are  in 
a  state  of  bondage.     The  consequence  was  that,  after  several 

years  of  industry  and  care,  young  J had  saved  sufficient 

money  to  purchase  his  freedom.  Having  obtained  his  liberty^ 
the  enterprising  African  worked  his  passage  back  to  the  Gambia ; 
and,  with  the  few  dollars  in  his  possession,  set  up  as  a  native 
trader  on  a  small  scale.  Prosperity  crowned  his  efforts.  He 
subsequently  purchased  a  good  house,  furnished  it  genteelly, 
and  lived  as  a  first-rate  gentleman.  He  owned  several  vessels, 
and  carried  on  an  extensive  trade  in  the  river,  as  well  as  with 
the  other  settlements  on  the  coast,  and  even  Avith  the  West 

Indies.    At  the  time  I  knew  him,  Mr.  J lived  within  a  ie\y 

hundred  yards  of  Mr.  A ,  the  very  person  who  once  sold 

him  as  a  slave,  and  whom  he  now  surpassed  both  in  wealth  and 
respectability  as  a  merchant  of  the  colony.  The  children  of 
both  parties  attended  the  Mission  school ;  and  I  am  happy  to 
say  that  they  lived  on  terms  of  perfect  friendship  and  good- 
will, and  would  occasionally  allude  to  the  circumstances  here 


CRAP.    VIII. — SECOND    VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.        177 

narrated,  with  considerable  humour,  in  social  parties,  where  I 
have  often  met  them. 

This  is  but  a  specimen  of  numerous  cases  which  might  be 
given  of  a  similar  character,  and  reminds  me  of  another  affecting 
incident  which  occurred  some  time  afterwards  at  Macarthy's 
Island.  Two  liberated  African  boys,  Charles  and  Joseph,  who 
attended  the  Mission  school,  on  observing  a  man  come  to  the 
Mission-House  one  day  with  something  to  sell,  fell  upon  him, 
and  abused  him  loudly  in  their  native  language.  On  being 
reproved  for  their  apparently  strange  conduct,  Charles  ex- 
claimed, "  Sir,  dat  man  been  kill  my  moder,  and  sell  me  for 
slave  !"  On  further  inquiry  it  was  found  that  the  man  whose 
appearance  had  excited  the  indignation  of  these  African  youths 
was  indeed  the  very  person  who,  a  few  years  before,  had  set 
their  native  village  on  fire,  and  dragged  them  into  slavery  ;  that 
he,  in  his  turn,  had  afterwards  been  kidnapped,  and  sold  as  a 
slave  ;  and  that  both  parties,  having  been  liberated  from  the  slave- 
ships  by  British  cruisers,  were  now  located  on  the  Gambia,  and 
thus  brought  together,  in  the  order  of  Providence,  within  a  few 
miles  of  the  place  where  the  capture  occurred. 

But,  to  return  to  the  narrative  of  our  voyage  down  the 
Gambia,  I  may  briefly  remark,  that  on  Saturday,  the  24th,  at 
an  early  hour  in  the  morning,  as  the  tide  turned,  we  came  to 
anchor  off  Dog  Island,  with  St.  Mary's  in  sight,  though  at  a 
considerable  distance.  Being  anxious  to  reach  home  before  the 
Sabbath,  I  took  the  small  boat,  witii  a  couple  of  men,  who  plied 
their  oars  with  energy  ;  and  we  reached  Bathurst  in  the  after- 
noon. On  going  on  shore  I  was  thankful  to  find  that  during 
my  absence  my  dear  wife  had  again  been  preserved  in  peace  and 
safety,  and  in  the  enjoyment  of  moderate  health ;  although 
much  care,  labour,  and  responsibility  had  necessarily  devolved 
upon  her  in  the  interim,  in  connexion  with  the  Mission  schools 
and  other  exercises  on  the  SUition.  I  was  gratified  also  to 
find  that  the  schools  and  religious  services  had  been  well 
attended,  and  that  by  means  of  the  united  eft'orts  of  the  Leaders 
and  Native  Teachers,  under  the  direction  of  my  dear  partner, 
everything  connected  with  the  good  work  in  which  we  were 
engaged  wore  a  pleasing  aspect. 


178  PAKT  I. — WESTEBN  AFRICA. 

On  returning  once  more  to  the  abodes  of  civilized  men,  every- 
thing appeared  quite  strange  for  a  time.  During  the  Avliole  of  my 
journey  I  had  not  slept  one  night  in  a  proper  bed,  or  in  a  house 
of  any  kind,  being  constantly  exposed  to  the  open  air  by  night 
and  by  day.  The  comforts  of  home,  even  in  Africa,  were  thus 
rendered  sweet  and  grateful  by  the  privations  which  I  had 
endured ;  and  with  a  thankful  heart  for  all  the  mercies  of  ray 
God,  I  continued  to  prosecute  my  beloved  labours  at  Bathurst, 
under  circumstances  of  much  encouragement. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that,  in  a  climate  like  that  of 
Western  Africa,  and  placed  in  somewhat  peculiar  circumstances, 
being  the  only  Christian  Minister  in  the  country,  with  the  duties 
€f  Colonial  Chaplain  devolving  upon  me,  in  addition  to  those  of 
a  Missionary,  there  were  no  trials  and  difficulties  to  be  encoun- 
tered. Of  these  we  had  our  share ;  but,  although  I  had  no 
colleague  wdth  whom  I  could  take  brotherly  counsel  in  times  of 
perplexity,  and  my  dear  wife  had  no  sisterly  aid  and  sympathy  in 
seasons  of  affliction,  she  being  the  only  European  female  then 
in  the  country,  we  found  in  each  other,  and  in  our  God,  the 
consolation  and  comfort  which  we  required,  and  we  ''went 
■on  our  way  rejoicing." 


CHAPTER  TX. 

THIRD  VOYAGE  UP  THE    GAMBIA. 

Letter  from  John  Cupidon— Third  EmbarL-ation  for  :Macarthy's  Island — 
Second  visit  to  Tankerwall— Sabbath— Wild  Beasts— Difficult  Naviga. 
tion—Yanemaroo— Alligators— Kyeye  Island— Native  Canoe  Song- 
Progress  of  Macarthy's  ;Mission — Baptisms  and  Marriages— Return — 
Sickness — Providential  Interposition— Dr.  Lindo  and  his  Friends — 
Arrival  of  Missionaries — Erection  of  Buildiugs — Atteinpt  to  benefit 
the  Joolas— Liberated  Africans— Death  of  Missionaries— Further 
Progress— Present  State  of  the  Macarthy's  Mission. 

During  the  second  year  of  our  missionary  labours  in  Western 
Mrica,  several  interesting  incidents  occurred  at  St.  Mary's,  illus- 
trative of  the  providence  and  grace  of  God,  the  character  of 


CHAP.    IX. — THIRD    VOYAGE   UP    THE    GAMBIA.  179 

the  people,  and  the  progress  of  the  Gospel ;  but  these  I  shall 
pass  over  for  the  present,  and  proceed  to  give  a  brief  account  of 
my  third  voyage  up  the  Gambia,  and  the  results  of  our  new 
Mission  at  Macarthy's  Island,  the  commencement  of  which  was 
narrated  in  the  last  chapter. 

The  lively  interest  manifested  by  our  native  converts  at 
Batliurst  in  the  success  of  the  laboui's  of  John  Cupidon,  the 
Assistant  Missionary,  was  truly  pleasing ;  and  they  felt  anxious 
to  receive  intelligence  I'rom  their  fellow  countryman  by  every 
vessel  which  arrived  from  jMacarthy's  Island.  Our  hearts  were 
cheered  from  time  to  time  by  communications  of  a  favourable 
character,  in  reference  to  the  progress  of  the  work  of  God.  In 
a  letter  now  before  me,  brother  Cupidon  writes  as  follows  : — 

"Macarthy's  Island,  July  \Wl,  1832. 
"  Key.  and  dear  Sir, — As  to  my  feelings  and  progress 
in  the  way  to  heaven,  I  do  bless  the  Lord  for  His  goodness  in 
giving  me  refreshing  seasons  to  my  heart.  I  know  that  my 
Redeemer  liveth ;  and  have  confidence  towards  God,  that  through 
the  blood  of  Christ  my  sins  are  forgiven ;  for  I  am  '  His 
workmanship,  created  in  Christ  Jesus  unto  good  works.'  May 
God  of  His  infinite  mercy  maintain  His  cause  in  this  place  ! 
Praise  be  to  Him  for  what  He  has  already  done  !  I  have  not 
the  least  doubt  but  He  is  with  me,  labouring  in  this  part  of 
His  vineyard.  As  He  said  to  His  disciples  of  old,  so  He  says 
still.  He  promised  to  be  with  them,  to  confirm  their  words  to 
the  hearts  of  their  hearers.  I  have  another  young  man  joined 
to  the  Society,  which  cheers  me  much.  He  was  before  very- 
wicked,  but  has  now  turned  away  from  his  sins  by  the  grace  of 
God,  and  is  calling  for  mercy.  I  was  fearing  that,  as  the 
people  here  get  their  living  by  working  their  farms,  they  would 
neglect  the  meetings  in  the  rainy  season  \  but  I  am  glad  to  find 
that  they  are  regular  in  their  attendance,  as  before.  The  school 
is  also  going  on  w-ell.  The  boys  and  girls  are  making  good 
improvement  in  their  reading  and  other  exercises.  According 
to  your  advice,  on  Sunday  last  I  made  a  collection  at  the  close 
of  the  morning  and  evening  services,  which  amounted  to  five 
shillings  and  eleven  pence  two  farthings ;  but  I  hope  we  shall 

N  2 


180  PAET    I. — -".VESTERX    AFRICA. 

get  more  on  the  return  of  another  quarter,  if  the  Lord  permit, 
I  trust,  by  the  mighty  working  of  God's  Spirit,  the  people  wilt 
be  more  enlightened  and  affected  by  the  word ;  and  then, 
though  they  have  not  much  money  here,  they  will  be  willing  to 
give  what  tliey  can  to  forward  the  Gospel.  I  have  explained 
to  them,  that  all  they  give  goes  to  the  Mission  fund,  for  the 
support  of  the  Gospel.  Please,  Sir,  remember  me  to  the  Society 
at  St.  jNIary's,  and  tell  them  that  the  cause  of  God  is  prospering 
here,  and  that  they  must  not  cease  to  pray  for  me,  that  God 
may  bless  my  poor  labours  among  this  people.  Mary  joins  me 
in  best  respect  for  Mrs.  Moister  and  yourself;  and,  sincerely 
praying  for  your  health  and  prosperity,  I  remain,  dear  Sir, 
yours  affectionately  in  Christ  Jesus, 

"John  Cupidon." 
*'  To  Rev.  W.  Moister:' 

Upon  this  communication  I  need  make  no  extended  com- 
ment, as  it  speaks  for  itself.  Notwithstanding  it«  obvious 
imperfections,  it  exhibits  the  natural  ability  of  the  native  convert 
who  wrote  it,  the  progress  of  the  work  in  which  he  was  engaged, 
and  the  economy  of  Wesleyan  Metliodism,  which  everywhere 
teaches  those  who  have  been  benefitted  by  its  influence  to  con- 
tribute of  their  substance  for  tlie  support  of  the  Gospel,  as  tlie 
Lord  prospers  them.  This  pleasing  intelligence  from  the  Xative 
Teacher  was  followed,  during  the  year,  by  other  letters  equally 
encouraging,  and  which  excited  in  my  mind  a  strong  desire  to 
visit  once  more  this  interesting  station,  to  witness  the  progress 
which  had  been  already  made,  and  to  make  further  arrange- 
ments for  the  permanent  establishment  of  the  workatMacarthy's 
Island.  In  his  subsequent  communication,  brother  Cupidon 
earnestly  requested  me,  if  possible,  to  pay  him  a  visit,  as  the 
"  work  was  becoming  too  big  for  him  ;"  and  that  several  persons, 
both  children  and  adults,  were  waiting  to  be  received  into  the 
church  by  Christian  baptism.  He,  moreover,  informed  me  that 
a  number  of  couples  were  anxious  to  be  lawfully  married,  having 
abandoned  their  former  heathen  practices,  and  manifested  a 
desire  to  flee  from  the  wrath  to  come.  Under  these  circum- 
stances I  made  arrrangemsnts  for  leaving  St.  Mary's  on  my  third 


CHAP.    IX. — THIRD    TOYAGE    TP    THE    GAMBIA.  181 

voyage  up  the  Gambia,  so  soon  as  the  season  should  be  favour- 
able for  travelling. 

On  the  morning  of  Friday,  the  1st  of  February,  1833,  I 
went  on  board  the  brigantine  "Matilda,"  just  arrived  from 
England,  and  bound  for  the  upper  nver,  to  take  in  a  cargo 
of  mahogany,  and  other  valuable  wood,  which  is  found  in 
great  abundance  on  the  banks  of  the  Gambia.  This  was  the 
largest  vessel  in  which  I  had  ever  sailed  up  the  river ;  and 
the  accommodations  were,  consequently,  more  commodious ; 
but  she  was  not  well  adapted  for  this  particular  kind  of 
inland  navigation.  The  weather  was  fine,  and  the  breeze 
favourable :  so  that  we  passed  James'  Fort  and  Seka  Point 
with  the  first  flowing  tide;  and  were  favoured  with  a  splendid 
view  of  the  first  and  second  bends  in  this  magnificent  river. 

The  following  day  the  wind  was  unfavourable ;  and,  the  tide 
being  spent,  we  came  to  anchor  off  Tankerwall.  I  immediately 
went  on  shore,  to  speak  with  the  natives ;  and  some  of  them 
remembered  my  former  visit  to  this  place,  nearly  two  years 
before,  and  were  glad  to  see  me  again.  I  saw  among  them  a 
Mohammedan  Priest,  wliom  I  had  known  at  St.  Mary's  ;  and 
we  entered  at  once  into  a  friendly  discussion  of  the  comparative 
merits  of  the  religion  of  Christ  and  that  of  the  false  prophet. 
He  had  in  his  possession  a  copy  of  the  Koran,  beautifully 
written  in  Arabic,  which  he  kept  carefully  folded  up,  and 
deposited  in  a  leather  bag.  After  repeatedly  bowing  himself 
to  the  ground  with  apparent  reverence,  and  uttering  a  few 
words  of  prayer,  he  proceeded  to  unfold  and  open  the  book, 
several  passages  of  which  he  read  with  considerable  fluency. 
After  allowing  him  to  expatiate  at  some  length  on  the  merits 
of  his  own  religion,  I  ventured  to  speak  on  the  excellency  of 
Christianity,  and  particularly  directed  the  attention  of  the 
Priest,  and  the  people  who  surrounded  us,  to  its  missionary 
.character.  I  ask  them  if  ever  they  knew  a  Mohammedan 
Priest  leave  his  country,  his  friends,  and  his  home,  to  sojourn 
in  a  land  of  strangers,  for  the  sole  purpose  of  propagating  the 
principles  of  his  religion.  This  was  sufficient :  he  had  nothing 
to  say  in  reply,  being  apparently  confounded ;  and,  by  giving 
way  to  anger,  he  brought  upon  himself  the  ridicule  of  his  own 


182  PAET   I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

people,  who  had  manifested  considerable  interest  in  the  conver- 
sation. After  talking  with  the  natives  for  some  time  longer, 
I  went  to  see  their  gardens  and  provision  grounds;  and  was 
exceedinglv  grratified  to  find  that  tliev  had  extended  the 
cultivation  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  town  since  I  was  here 
last.  Numbers  still  live  a  life  of  indolence,  however ;  and  we 
found  a  large  party  of  men,  as  usual,  squatting  under  the 
bentang  tree,  in  the  front  of  the  town,  whiling  away  their 
time  by  talking  over  the  news  of  the  day,  while  their  wives 
were  busily  engaged  in  agricultural  labour. 

When  the  Sabbath  morning  dawned  upon  us,  we  were 
pursuing  our  course  with  a  favourable  breeze  and  a  flowing 
tide.  The  sun  arose  without  a  cloud  to  obscure  the  splendour 
of  his  rays ;  and  the  surrounding  scenery  seemed  to  harmonize 
with  the  sacredness  of  the  day.  We  came  to  anchor  early, 
and  preparations  were  made  for  Divine  service  on  board. 
The  sailors  assembled  on  the  quarter  deck ;  and,  although 
our  congregation  was  small,  we  felt  it  good  to  wait  upon  the 
Lord. 

On  Monday  morning,  the  4th,  I  found  we  had  not  made  so 
much  progress  during  the  night  as  I  expected,  the  wind  being 
light,  and  not  very  favourable.  About  noon  we  met  Captain 
Chown's  schooner ;  and  I  embraced  the  opportunity  of  writing 
to  my  dear  wife  at  St.  Mary's,  to  inform  her  that,  thus  far,  all 
was  well.  We  had  on  board  our  vessel  a  native  of  Cower, 
with  whom  I  had  an  interesting  conversation  with  reference  to 
that  part  of  the  country.  He  appeared  to  think  that  a  Christian 
Missionary  would  be  well  received  there,  and  that  the  people 
would  gladly  avail  themselves  of  the  opportunity  of  having 
their  children  instructed  in  a  Mission  school.  I  was  glad  to 
hear  such  an  opinion  expressed  by  an  intelligent  native,  as  I 
had  long  thought  that  if  we  had  the  means  of  extending  our 
labours  on  the  banks  of  the  Gambia,  Cower  would  be  a  very 
eligible  place  for  a  station.  It  is  a  central  situation,  about  half 
way  between  St.  Mary's  and  Macarthy's;  and  from  the  circumstance 
of  its  bordering  both  on  the  Mandingo  and  the  Jalloff  countries, 
access  might  probably  be  gained  from  hence  to  the  people  of 
both  nations.     The  King  of  Salem,  whose  territory  terminates 


CHAP.  IX. — THIRD  VOYAGE  UP  THE  GAMBIA.     183 

here,  is,  moreover,  very  friendly  towards  the  Britisli  Government, 
and  would  be  likely  to  favour  the  commencement  of  a  Mission 
in  his  dominions. 

We  came  to  anchor  off  Elephant  Island  in  the  evening,  the 
tide  being  spent,  and  the  breeze  not  being  sufficiently  strong  to 
enable  our  vessel  to  stem  the  current.  The  death-like  silence 
that  pervaded  the  desolate  spot  during  the  evening,  was 
interrupted  only  by  the  roar  of  the  lion,  and  the  growl  of  the 
tiger,  as  these  animals  emerged  from  their  dens  to  seek  their 
nightly  prey  in  the  surrounding  forests.  I  retired  early ;  and 
as  I  lay  in  my  berth,  my  hours  of  rest  were  broken  by  pensive 
thoughts  of  my  native  land,  friends,  and  home,  which  obtruded 
themselves  upon  my  mind,  and  for  a  time  depressed  my  spirits. 
But  when  I  called  to  mind  the  glorious  enterprise  in  which  I 
^vas  engaged,  these  melancholy  feelings  gave  place  to  the  pleas- 
ing anticipation  that  good  might  be  the  result  of  the  humble 
efforts  which  I  was  making  to  spread  the  knowledge  of  the 
Saviour's  name  in  this  long-neglected  country. 

The  wind  being  contrary  all  day  on  Tuesday,  the  5th,  we 
made  but  little  progress.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  a 
mountainous  district,  abounding  with  wild  beasts  of  various 
kinds.  I  asked  one  of  the  natives  if  he  Avould  procure  me 
a  young  lion ;  but  he  shrewdly  observed  that  if  I  would  walk 
up  the  hill  with  him,  he  would  show  me  plenty ;  but  as  to  the 
catching  of  them,  he  would  rather  leave  that  to  me.  About 
eight  o'clock  at  night  we  came  to  anchor  off  Cower,  and  I  was 
glad  to  retire  to  rest,  the  heat  having  been  intense  during  the 
day. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  Wednesday,  the  6th,  we  got  under 
weigh ;  but  when  the  tide  turned  we  came  to  anchor  off'  the 
mouth  of  Bateda  Creek,  and  several  of  the  natives  came  on 
board  to  trade.  Erom  these  people  we  obtained  a  supply  of 
fowls,  eggs,  and  new  milk,  for  which  we  gave  them  tobacco  and 
beads  in  barter, — money  being  scarcely  known  in  these  parts. 
As  the  tide  began  to  flow,  about  two  o'clock  p.m.,  we  weighed 
anchor  again ;  but  we  had  not  proceeded  far  before  the  vessel 
ran  aground,  so  that  we  were  obliged  to  heave  out  the  anchor 
in  deep  water,  and  warp  her  off  as  well  as  we  could,  which 


184  PAET   I. — WESTERN   AFRICA. 

required  the  imited  strength  of  all  on  board.  We  next  got 
the  mast  and  rigging  of  our  vessel  entangled  in  the  trees,  which 
overhang  the  river  in  this  locality.  Thus  we  experienced  the 
inconvenience  of  navigating  this  serpentine  river,  with  such  a 
large  vessel,  at  the  season  of  the  year  when  there  is  not  a  great 
depth  of  water  in  some  places. 

On  Thursday,  the  7th,  we  went  on  shore  at  Yanemaroo, 
where  Mr.  Riley  had  a  branch  mercantile  establishment.  Mr. 
Eiley  was  from  home ;  but  Mrs.  Eiley  received  us  very  kindly, 
and  treated  us  with  true  African  hospitality,  as  she  had  done 
at  Doma-sang-sang  the  year  before.  She  sent  her  people  into 
the  j^asture  to  milk  the  cows,  and  regaled  us  with  an  abundant 
supply  of  the  delicious  beverage.  After  returning  to  the  vessel 
we  saw  a  number  of  alligators  basking  in  the  sun,  on  a  sandbank, 
at  a  short  distance.  As  the  sailors  had  nothing  else  to  do, 
they  loaded  a  small  cannon  with  canister-shot,  and  fired  at 
them,  when  they  instantly  disappeared  under  the  water.  These 
creatures  are  very  numerous  in  the  Gambia ;  and  we  scarcely 
passed  a  day  without  seeing  one  or  more  of  them.  As  the 
natives  frequently  bathe  in  the  river,  and  in  the  creeks,  serious 
accidents  frequently  occur.  Sometimes  an  individual  has  lost 
a  leg  or  an  arm,  and  instances  w^ere  related  to  me  of  children 
having  been  entirely  dragged  away  by  these  ferocious  creatures. 
They  frequently  measure  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  in  length ;  and 
their  scales  are  so  strong  and  compact  that  a  musket  ball  will 
scarcely  make  any  impression  on  them,  unless  it  strike  under  the 
fore  leg,  where  it  is  more  soft  and  vulnerable.  Towards 
evening  we  got  under  weigh  again ;  and,  as  we  passed  Cassan  in 
the  stillness  of  the  night,  and  in  a  dead  calm,  nothing  was 
heard  but  the  singing  of  the  men  as  they  plied  their  oars  in 
the  boat,  while  endeavouring  to  pull  the  vessel  along ;  and  the 
harsh  cry  of  the  hippopotamus,  as  it  quitted  the  river  to 
commit  its  nightly  depredations  in  the  cultivated  grounds  of  the 
natives. 

Being  apprehensive  that  I  should  not  reach  Macarthy's  Island 
before  the  Sabbath,  I  arose  early  on  Saturday  morning,  the  9th, 
having  resolved  to  go  on  shore,  and  perform  the  remainder  of 
the  journey  by  land.     The  moon  shone  brightly  on  the  placid 


CHAP.    IX. — THIllD    VOYAGE    UP    THE    GAMBIA.  185 

waters  of  the  Gambia,  as  I  paced  the  deck  of  the  "  Matilda," 
considering  which  would  be  the  best  course  to  pursue.  About 
six  o'clock  A.M.,  after  a  hasty  breakfast,  we  landed  on  Kyeye 
Island,  as  the  vessel  was  working  her  way  through  the  southern 
passage.  I  placed  a  basket,  containing  some  refreshments,  on 
the  head  of  my  little  Negro  boy,  and  we  followed  a  Mandingo 
man  who  had  engaged  to  be  our  guide.  The  path  lay  directly 
across  the  island,  which  appeared  to  be  pretty  well  cultivated, 
and  might  be  about  half  a  mile  wide.  On  arriving  at  the  native 
village,  on  the  other  branch  of  the  river,  where  we  intended  to 
cross  over,  and  proceed  through  the  kingdom  of  Kateba,  we  met 
with  a  canoe,  ready  laden,  and  just  about  to  start  direct  for 
Macarthy's  Island.  I  therefore  relinquished  the  idea  of  going 
by  land  ;  and,  for  a  few  trifling  articles,  engaged  a  passage  for 
myself,  my  boy,  and  our  native  guide.  In  a  few  minutes  we 
were  under  weigh,  and  gliding  swiftly  along,  with  the  tide  in 
our  favour.  The  canoe  was  manned  by  twelve  Mandingoes,  six 
on  either  side,  who  cheered  each  other  in  their  usual  manner  by 
an  extemporaneous  song,  to  which  they  kept  time  with  their 
paddles,  as  they  propelled  it  through  the  water  at  a  rapid  rate. 
Hearing  them  make  use  of  the  words  serlng  Tabahe^  or  "  white 
Minister,"  in  their  song,  I  asked  my  little  boy  what  the  people 
were  singing  about.  He  said,  "  They  are  singing  about  you. 
Sir."  On  further  inquiry  as  to  the  particulars  of  this  wild 
extemporaneous  effusion,  he  proceeded  to  inform  me  that  in 
their  song  they  said,  "  The  canoe  was  a  new  one ;  it  had  never 
been  up  the  river  before ;  and  that  they  hoped  it  would  be  a 
successful  canoe,  because,  on  its  first  voyage,  a  white  Minister 
was  on  board;"  with  the  chonis  at  the  end  of  every  verse, 
*' Success  to  the  white  Minister  and  the  new  canoe!"  This 
little  incident  is  illustrative  of  a  common  practice  among  this 
lively  and  humorous  people.  They  seem  as  if  they  cannot 
work  with  spirit  unless  they  have  a  song  to  cheer  them  in  their 
labour,  especially  when  plying  their  paddles  on  board  a  canoe. 
The  Captain,  or  man  who  steers,  generally  dictates  the  words  of 
the  song  with  admirable  tact ;  and  his  voice  alone  is  heard  until 
he  comes  to  the  chorus,  when  the  whole  crew  unite  with  him  in 
the  most  hearty  and  enthusiastic  manner.     A  few,  however,  of 


186  PART   I. — AVESTERN    AFRICA. 

those  long  degraded  Africans,  who  have  been  recently  converted 
to  the  faith  of  the  Gospel,  now  delight  in  singing  tlie  songs  of 
Zion,  while  engaged  in  their  daily  work ;  and  we  tmst  the 
number  will  rapidly  increase.  May  the  happy  day  soon  come 
when  the  banks  of  this  beautiful  river  shall  resound  with  the 
praises  of  God ! 

We  proceeded  very  comfortably,  till  we  came  in  sight  of 
Macarthy's  Island,  and  within  four  or  five  miles  of  our  destina- 
tion ;  when  the  wind  arose,  and  caused  the  waves  to  dash  over 
the  gunwale  of  the  canoe,  which  was  heavily  laden  with  salt. 
As  it  was  considered  unsafe  to  proceed  till  the  storm  had  abated, 
the  people  ran  the  vessel  into  a  small  bay,  on  the  northern  side 
of  the  river,  cutting  away  the  brushwood  to  prepare  a  landing- 
place,  and  we  went  on  shore.  Unfortunately  for  me,  we  were 
landed  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  river,  otherwise  we  could  soon 
have  walked  up  to  the  Mission  station.  I  remembered  that  we 
had  passed  a  sloop  at  anchor,  a  short  time  before  this  accident 
occurred  ;  and  I  resolved,  if  possible,  to  get  within  hearing  of 
her,  that  we  might  procure  her  boat  to  put  us  across  the  river. 
With  this  object  in  view,  after  partaking  of  a  little  refreshment, 
we  pursued  our  way  down  the  northern  bank  of  the  river,  over 
a  track  of  marshy  land,  where  we  beheld  no  trace  of  human 
footsteps,  and  where  the  standing  grass  was  several  feet  higher 
than  our  heads.  After  we  had  worked  our  way  through  this 
for  some  distance,  we  came  to  a  more  open  part  of  the  country, 
where  the  dry  grass  had  been  burned  down.  We  found  it  ver}'- 
difficult  to  Avalk  among  the  charry  stubble,  which  stood  about 
half  a  yard  high,  and  which  soon  made  my  white  linen  dress 
anything  but  white.  At  length  we  came  in  sight  of  the  sloop, 
hailed  the  boat,  crossed  the  river,  and  gave  the  boatmen  the 
remainder  of  our  provisions  for  their  trouble.  We  then  walked 
to  George  Town,  where  we  arrived  about  sunset,  much  fatioued 
with  the  exercises  of  the  day,  and  the  dreariness  of  the  passage 
up  the  river,  which  had  occupied  nine  days  since  we  left  St. 
Mary's.  We  were  kindly  received  by  John  and  Mary  Cupidon, 
the  Native  Teacher  and  his  wife,  and  were  happy  to  find  them 
usefully  employed  in  the  work  of  their  Divine  Master.  Mary 
made  us  a  comfortable  cup  of  tea,  which  was  truly  refreshing  ^ 


CHAP.  IX. — THIRD  VOYAGE  UP  THE  GAMBIA.     187 

and  I  retired  to  rest  with  a  grateful  heart  for  the  preserving 
mercies  of  my  heavenly  Father. 

When  I  arose  on  the  morning  of  Sunday,  the  10th,  I  felt 
much  revived,  and  in  some  measure  prepared  for  the  labours  of 
the  day.  At  ten  o'clock  a.m.,  the  people  assembled  for  Divine 
worship,  evidently  anticipating  something  more  than  usual.  A.s 
I  entered  the  chapel,  I  could  not  but  observe  the  change  which 
had  taken  place  in  the  appearance  and  manners  of  the  people 
since  I  last  addressed  them.  They  presented  themselves  in  the 
house  of  God  clean  and  neat  in  their  apparel,  and  conducted 
themselves  with  a  reverence  and  propriety  becoming  the  solem- 
nity of  the  occasion.  I  read  prayers,  and  preached  with  free- 
dom and  comfort  to  a  deeply  attentive  congregation  ;  after 
which  I  baptized  seven  adults  and  sixteen  children.  The  adults 
had  been  carefully  instructed  and  prepared  for  this  sacred  ordi- 
nance by  the  Native  Teacher ;  and  the  children  were  the  off- 
spring of  parents  who  had  avowed  their  determination  to  devote 
themselves  fully  to  the  service  of  the  Lord.  In  the  afternoon  I 
examined  the  Sunday  school,  which  consisted  chiefly  of  young 
men  and  women ;  and  I  was  delighted  to  observe  the  eagerness 
with  which  they  were  endeavouring  to  make  out  the  meaning  of. 
the  words  of  Him  who  "  spake  as  never  man  spake."  We  held 
another  service  in  the  evening,  which  "proved  to  be  a  season  of 
"  refreshing  from  the  presence  of  the  Lord."  This  holy  Sabbath 
was,  indeed,  a  day  long  to  be  remembered ;  and,  had  I  not 
actually  beheld  it,  I  could  scarcely  have  believed  that  such  a 
change  could  have  taken  place  in  so  short  a  time,  through  the 
simple  teaching  of  a  converted  African ;  for  several  gave  pleasing 
evidence  that  a  work  of  grace  had  commenced  in  their  hearts ; 
and  the  whole  congregation  engaged  in  singing,  and  other 
devotional  exercises,  with  a  life  and  energy  truly  delightful. 

On  Monday  morning,  the  11th,  the  "Matilda"  having 
amved,  I  obtained  my  luggage.  In  the  afternoon  I  examined 
the  Mission  school,  and  was  delighted  beyond  measure  with 
the  progress  made  by  these  little  Negro  children.  Twelve 
months  before  they  were  running  about  in  a  wild  and  barbarous 
state,  with  scarcely  any  clothing,  and  without  any  one  to  care 
for  their  immortal  souls ;  but  now  I  beheld  them  neatly  clothed. 


188  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

and  heard  them  lisp  the  praises  of  the  Almighty.  Several  of 
the  elder  scholars,  in  this  short  space  of  time,  had  learned  to 
read  easy  lessons  in  the  New-Testament  Scriptnres,  and  a  few 
were  being  taught  writing  and  arithmetic;  thus  affording  a 
demonstrative  proof  that  the  untutored  African  possesses  natural 
capabilities  to  receive  instruction,  when  proper  means  are  em- 
ployed to  raise  him  from  his  degraded  condition.  The  pleasure 
which  I  realized  on  this  delightful  occasion  more  than  com- 
pensated for  all  the  toil  and  privations  which  I  had  experienced 
in  connexion  with  the  establishment  of  this  interesting  Mission. 

I  had  a  long  conversation,  on  Tuesday,  the  13th,  with  the 
owner  of  the  Cataba  country.  This  was  not  the  King,  but  a 
kind  of  Lord  of  the  Manor,  called  the  Slatee,  a  very  important 
personage.  I  asked  him  if  he  and  the  King  would  allow  a 
Missionary  to  settle  in  their  country,  and  if  they  would  sell  a 
piece  of  land  for  a  Mission  station.  He  said  they  would  gladly 
have  a  Missionary  to  live  among  them,  and  that  we  might  build 
houses ;  but  lie  could  not  sell  any  land,  as  this  was  contrary  to 
the  customs  of  their  fathers ;  and  that  he  held  the  land  not  for 
himself,  but  for  posterity.  I  then  inquired  if  we  should  be 
,  allowed  to  quarry  building  stone  out  of  a  certain  hill  to  which 
I  pointed.  "As  for  that,"  said  his  sable  lordship,  "you  may 
dig  away  the  whole  hill,  if  you  will  give  me  two  gallons  of  rum.'* 
When  we  did  build,  we  obtained  stones  without  giving  rum. 

On  Wednesday,  the  13th,  the  heat  was  very  great,  and  the 
thermometer  rose  to  98°  in  the  shade.  There  was  a  peculiar 
dry,  parching  heat  in  the  breeze  itself,  as  it  now  blew  from  the 
eastward,  across  the  extensive  sandy  deserts  in  the  interior.  In 
the  evening  I  preached,  and  administered  the  sacrament  of  the 
Lord's  Supper  to  the  native  members  of  our  infant  church. 
This  was  the  first  opportunity  they  had  ever  enjoyed  of  thus 
commemorating  the  dying  love  of  Christ ;  and  it  was  a  solemn 
and  profitable  season. 

On  Thursday,  the  14th,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  uniting  several 
couples  in  holy  matrimony.  They  had  been  previously  instructed 
in  the  doctrines  and  requirements  of  the  Christian  religion,  and 
<leclared  their  determination  to  endeavour  to  "  walk  in  all  the 
commandments  and  ordinances  of  the  Lord  blameless."     When 


CHAP.  IX. — THTED  VOYAGE  UP  THE  GAMBIA.    189 

it  is  remembered  that  the  natives  in  their  heathenish  state  are 
grossly  addicted  to  polygamy  and  concubinag-e,  this  circum- 
stance will  afford  satisfactory  evidence  that  the  Gospel  of  our 
Lord  Jesus  Christ  was  beginning  to  exercise  its  legitimate 
influence  upon  the  hearts  and  lives  of  this  long  degraded 
people. 

The  services  and  exercises  of  the  past  few  days  had  been 
deeply  interesting,  and  most  gladly  would  I  have  prolonged  my 
stay  at  Macarthy's  Island;  but  duty  called  me  to  return  as 
soon  as  possible  to  my  own  station  at  St.  Mary's.  Having, 
therefore,  accomplished  the  object  of  my  visit,  I  began  to 
arrange  for  my  departure.  On  taking  an  affectionate  leave  of 
the  Native  Teacher,  and  the  dear  people  who  flocked  around 
me,  they  were  much  moved.  I  commended  them  "  to  God 
and  to  the  word  of  His  grace ;  "  and  they  sorrowed  most  of  all 
at  the  thought  that  they  would  probably  see  my  face  no  more 
in  this  world ;  and  this  indeed  proved  to  be  my  last  interview 
with  this  interesting  people.  It  was  late  at  night  on  Friday, 
the  15th,  before  I  could  get  on  board  the  small  vessel  by  which 
I  had  taken  my  passage ;  but,  when  we  did  get  under  weighs 
we  made  rapid  progress  down  the  river,  having  both  wind  and 
tide  in  our  favour. 

The  next  morning  we  met  a  vessel  from  St.  Mary's,  by 
which  I  received  a  parcel  containing  letters  and  periodicals  botli 
from  Bathurst  and  London.  The  "  Magazines "  and  "  Mis- 
sionary Notices  "  were  truly  interesting.  The  pleasure  arising 
from  the  perusal  of  these  useful  publications,  and  the  value  of 
intelligence  from  dear  old  England,  can  only  be  fully  estimated 
by  those  whose  lot  has  been  cast  in  distant  heathen  lands, 
where  the  blessings  of  social  intercourse  with  intelligent  Chris- 
tian friends  is  almost  unknown. 

In  descending  the  river,  on  tliis  occasion,  I  was  attacked  with 
a  violent  fever  almost  immediately  after  going  on  board  the 
vessel ;  and  was  confined  to  my  berth  nearly  the  vv^hole  time  of 
the  passage.  I  was,  therefore,  thankful  to  find  that  we  should 
not  be  detained  by  many  calls  at  native  towns,  as  is  frequently 
the  case.  Severe  illness  in  a  country  like  Western  Africa  is 
painful  under    any  circumstances ;   but  especially  so  when  it 


190  PAET  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

occurs  in  travelling  at  a  distance  from  medical  aid,  removed 
from  the  comforts  of  home,  and  deprived  of  the  kind  hand  of 
afiection  to  minister  to  one's  necessities  in  the  trying  hour.  My 
poor  little  Negro  boy  manifested  much  sympathy,  and  did  all 
in  his  power  to  soothe  my  sorrows  ;  but  my  sufferings  were  very 
great,  being  completely  exhausted  by  being  so  long  confined  to 
the  deck  and  hold  of  a  small  vessel,  with  constant  fever. 

On  Wednesday  morning,  20th,  though  scarcely  able  to  move, 
I  crawled  on  deck,  and  beheld  in  the  distance,  with  grateful 
emotions,  the  white  houses  of  Bathurst.  The  wind  was  con- 
trary, and  the  tide  had  just  turned  against  us.  Being  anxious 
to  reach  home  as  soon  as  possible,  a  small  boat  was  manned, 
and  I  was  landed  at  St.  Mary's  in  about  three  hours.  I  was 
so  weak  that  I  could  scarcely  walk,  from  the  beach  to  the  Mis- 
sion-House without  assistance ;  and  when  my  dear  wdfe  looked 
upon  me,  and  saw  the  change  which  sickness  had  made  in  my 
appearance,  she  was  much  affected.  We  w^ere  thankful,  how- 
ever, to  meet  together  once  more ;  and  sincerely  did  we  praise 
the  Lord  for  His  continued  preserving  goodness  and  mercy. 
By  the  Divine  blessing  upon  the  means  employed,  my  health 
was  in  a  short  time  so  far  restored  as  to  enable  me  to  resume 
my  labours  with  some  degree  of  comfort.  It  must,  however,  be 
evident  to  every  one,  that  the  repeated  attacks  of  fever  to  which 
a  Missionary  is  subject  in  that  unhealthy  climate,  so  completely 
prostrate  his  strength  as  not  only  to  incapacitate  him  occa- 
sionally for  active  labour  for  the  time  being,  but  ultimately  to 
make  a  serious  impression  upon  his  constitution.  This  I 
proved  by  painful  experience,  whilst  labouring  in  Western 
Africa;  and  I  frequently  discharged  the  important  duties  of  my 
office  in  circumstances  of  extreme  weakness  and  debility. 

In  bringing  to  a  close  this  simple  narrative  of  facts  and 
incidents  connected  with  the  establishment  of  our  new  Mission 
at  Macarthy's  Island,  I  must  not  omit  to  record  a  few  further 
particulars  relative  to  the  subsequent  progress  of  the  work,  and 
the  remarkable  interposition  of  Divine  Providence  in  its  favour. 

Deeply  impressed  with  the  necessity  and  importance  of  the 
appointment  of  an  English  Missionary  to  reside  at  Macarthy's 
Island,  I  applied  to  the  Missionai-y  Committee  in  London,  soon 


CHAP.  IX. — THIED  VOYAGE  UP  THE  GAMBIA.    191 

-after  my  first  visit  to  that  place,  and  strongly  urged  them  to 
send  out  a  Minister  without  delay,  for  that  important  sphere  of 
labour;  but  such  were  the  pressing  demands  in  other  parts  of 
the  great  Mission  field,  and  the  depressed  state  of  the  Society's 
funds,  that  they  could  not  then  comply  with  my  request ;  and 
therefore  sent  me  the  following  communication  : — 

"  London,  December  llt/i,  1831. 

"  My  deae  Beothee, — We  were  thankful  to  hear  that  you 
and  Mrs.  Moister  had  recovered  from  your  affliction  ;  and  I  do 
hope  that  the  worst  is  now  past,  and  that  the  remaining  period 
of  your  stay  at  the  Gambia  will  be  marked  by  health  and  use- 
fulness. Dr.  Townley,  I  suppose,  has  given  you  some  directions 
about  the  Assistant  Missionaries,  to  which  I  hope  you  will  be 
able  to  attend  ;  and,  when  a  little  more  cultivated,  you  might, 
I  should  think,  employ  them  in  some  of  those  openings  to  which 
you  refer.  I  regret  to  say  that  we  cannot  possibly  send  you 
another  Missionary  at  present.  And  now,  my  dear  brother,  let 
me  entreat  you  to  take  care  of  your  health,  live  in  the  spirit  of 
your  work,  and  look  to  God  for  His  promised  blessing  upon 
your  exertions.     With  kind  regards  to  Mrs.  Moister,  I  remain 

"  Yours  afi'ectionately, 

"  John  James." 

"  To  Rev.  W.  Moister r 

From  what  has  already  been  recorded,  it  will  appear  that  I 
had  by  anticipation  acted  upon  the  above  suggestion,  in  refer- 
ence to  the  employment  of  native  agency.  But  the  work  at 
Macarthy's  Island  having  now  become  too  weighty  for  a  Native 
Assistant,  I  renewed  the  application  for  a  European  Missionary, 
but  still  without  success.  I  was,  moreover,  apprehensive  that, 
for  want  of  funds,  we  might  be  ultimately  obliged  to  abandon 
our  new  Mission  entirely.  During  the  first  year  of  its  existence, 
it  had  been  conducted  without  any  expense  to  the  parent  Society. 
At  an  early  period  of  my  missionary  labours  at  the  Gambia, 
certain  moneys  had  been  placed  at  my  disposal  by  the  Govern- 
ment, as  remuneration  for  performing  the  duties  of  the  Colonial 
^  Chaplain,  during  his  absence  from  the  settlement.     Being  at 


193  PAllT    I. WESTERN    AFRICA. 

the  same  time  in  the  receipt  of  my  regular  allowances  as  a  Mis- 
sionary, I  felt  that  I  could  not  better  employ  the  proceeds  of 
my  extra  labour  than  by  devoting  them  to  the  extension  of  the 
Gospel  in  the  interior  of  Africa.  It  was  from  this  source  of 
income  that  I  purchased  the  land,  erected  temporary  Mission 
premises,  and  paid  the  salary  of  the  Native  Assistant  at  Mac- 
arthy's  Island  for  the  first  twelve  months,  without  any  expense 
devolving  on  the  funds  of  the  parent  Society.  But  the  Chaplain 
having  now  returned  to  the  colony,  my  allowance  for  performing 
his  duties  was  discontinued  :  consequently  I  was  much  perplexed 
about  the  matter,  not  knowing  whether  the  Committee  would  be 
able  to  maintain  our  new^  Mission,  even  on  its  present  limited 
scale  of  expenditure.  Under  these  circumstances,  we  made  our 
case  known  to  God  in  prayer ;  and,  while  we  were  pleading  in 
Africa,  God  was  working  by  His  providence  in  England, 
and  literally  answering  our  prayers  in  a  manner  we  little 
expected. 

In  the  year  1832,  a  returned  Missionary,  the  Eev.  John 
Morgan,  was  stationed  at  Southampton ;  and  still  feeling  a  deep 
interest  in  the  degraded  natives  of  Africa,  among  whom  he  had 
formerly  laboured,  especially  the  wandering  Toolas  on  the  banks 
of  the  Gambia,  who  had  particularly  attracted  his  attention,  he 
made  an  appeal  on  their  behalf  to  several  benevolent  gentlemen 
of  that  town,  at  the  head  of  whom  was  the  late  philanthropic 
Dr.  Lindo.  These  friends  of  Africa  formed  themselves  into  a 
committee  of  supply ;  and,  by  their  personal  contributions  and 
zealous  efforts  in  collecting  from  others,  they  raised  funds  for 
the  purpose  of  supporting  an  English  Missionary  and  two 
Native  Assistants  at  Macarthy's  Island,  w^ithout  any  expense  to 
the  parent  Society.  When  their  plans  w^ere  matured,  they  made 
a  generous  ofl'er  to  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Committee  in 
London  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  pounds  a  year,  for  five  years, 
in  aid  of  this  object.  This  offer  was,  of  course,  gratefully 
accepted  ;  and  the  Eev.  Thomas  Dove  was  soon  afterwards 
selected  for  this  service,  who,  in  company  with  the  Eev.  William 
Eox,  appointed  as  my  successor  at  St.  Mary's,  embarked  for  the 
Gambia  early  in  1S33. 

The  first  intelligence  I  received  of  this  noble  and  benevolent 


CHAP.  IX. — THIRD  VOYAGE  UP  THE  GAMBIA.    193 

project  was  by  the  following;  official  corarauiiication,  from  one 
who  was  soon  afterwards  called  to  his  reward  : — 


"London,  Odoler  \Wi,  1S32. 
"  My  DEAR  Brother, — I  enclose  you  copies  of  two  letters 
from  Mr.  Morgan,  that  you  may  read  them  to  any  of  your 
intelligent  friends,  and  take  their  opinion,  and  transmit  it  to  us, 
with  any  information  touching  the  subject  which  you  may  col- 
lect  Vv'e  shall  look  out  for  a  successor,  and  trust  you  will 

be  spared  to  return  in  health  and  peace.     "VYatch  kindly  over 
the  young  men  under  your  care,  and  live  for  God  and  eternity. 
"  I  am  yours  affectionately, 

"Eichard  Watson." 
"  To  Rev.  W.  Moisterr 

The  effects  produced  on  our  minds  by  the  welcome  informa- 
tion that  arrangements  were  thus  being  made  for  the  extensiork 
of  the  good  work  in  the  interior,  on  such  a  liberal  scale,  may  be 
better  imagined  than  described.  The  pleasing  intelligence  was 
announced  to  our  people,  when  every  countenance  beamed  with 
joy ;  and  many  prayers  were  offered  up  to  God,  that  He  would 
bring  the  new  Ministers  and  their  families  over  the  sea  in  peace 
and  safety. 

On  Tuesday,  April  23rd,  1833,  a  vessel  appeared  off  the 
mouth  of  the  river;  and,  as  she  approached,  it  was  ascertained 
that  it  was  the  brig  "  Jack,"  from  England.  When  taking  a 
ride  along  the  beach  in  the  afternoon,  I  hailed  the  pilot-boat,  and 
was  informed  that  "  two  ladies  and  gentlemen  were  on  board 
the  vessel ;  "  which  suggested  the  idea  that  they  might  be  the 
expected  Mission  party.  She  came  to  anchor  off  Bathurst 
in  the  evening ;  and,  on  walking  down  to  the  wharf,  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  welcoming  to  the  shores  of  Africa  the  Eev.  William 
and  Mrs.  Eox,  and  the  Eev.  Thomas  and  Mrs.  Dove.*     They 

*  The  death  of  Mrs.  Dove,  which  occurred  at  Sierra  Leone  seven  years 
afterwards,  has  already  been  noticed ;  but  her  devoted  husband,  of  whose 
amiable  character  the  writer  cherishes  a  pleasing  recollection,  was  spared  to 
labour  in  connexion  with  the  Missions  on  the  coast  of  Africa  for  the  long 
period  of  thirteen  years.     Mr.  Dove  afterwards  laboured  with  acceptance 

O 


194  PAUT  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

accompanied  me  to  the  Mission-House,  and  we  all  rejoiced 
too;etlier  that  our  friends  had  been  brought  in  safety  across  the 
mig-hty  deep  to  the  scene  of  their  future  labours.  On  the  fol- 
lowing evening,  I  preached  from  Psalm  cxxxvi.  3  :  "  The  Lord 
hath  done  great  things  for  us,  whereof  we  are  glad."  In  the 
course  of  the  sermon,  I  made  allusion  to  what  God  had  done 
for  Africa,  in  sending  more  Missionaries,  to  which  the  people 
responded  most  devoutly.  This  being  the  first  native  service 
which  our  friends  from  England  had  attended,  they  expressed 
themselves  as  much  delighted  with  what  they  had  seen  and 
heard,  declaring  that  it  was  worth  the  trouble  of  crossing  the 
sea  to  behold  what  the  Gospel  had  done  for  this  people. 

By  this  arrival  I  received  the  following  letter,  vrhich  may 
serve  to  illustrate  the  plan  adopted  for  the  extension  of  the 
Gospel  on  the  i'^lands  and  banks  of  the  Gambia,  through  the 
liberality  and  ze::l  of  Dr.  Lindo  and  his  friends  at  Southampton, 
for  the  special  bniefit  of  the  Foolas  : — 

*' London,  March  SOi/i,  1833. 
"  My  dear  Brother, — You  will  receive  this  by  the  bre- 
thren Fox  and  Dove.  Mr.  Fox  is  sent  out  by  the  Committee  as 
your  successor  at  St.  Mary's,  and  Mr.  Dove  is  sent  out  to  com- 
mence a  Mission  among  the  Foolas.  A  number  of  gentlemen 
have  become  so  much  interested  in  behalf  of  that  people,  that 
they  have  entered  into  an  engagement  to  pay  us  an  annual  sum 
for  the  express  purpose  of  supporting  a  Mission  among  them. 
We  have  accepted  their  proposals,  and  have  engaged  Mr.  Dove, 
a  married  Missionary,  who  shall  make  Macarthy's  Island  his 
head-quarters,  and  w^ho  shall  have  under  his  direction  John 
Cupidon  and  Pierre  Sallah.  Government  has  granted  six  hun- 
dred acres  of  land  in  furtherance  of  the  object,  on  which  Mr. 
Dove  will  build  a  residence  and  erect  a  school-house.  You 
will  kindly  afford  them  all  the  advice  and  assistance  you  can. 
If  Cupidon  has  a  house  fit  to  receive  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Dove,  it 

and  success  at  Gibraltar,  and  in  several  English  Circuits,  where  he  was  much 
be  loved.  In  the  spring  of  1 858,  his  health  began  to  fail ;  and  he  continued 
gradually  to  sink  till  the  1st  of  December,  1859,  Avhen  he  peacefully- 
expired  at  Croydon,  in  the  fifty-ninth  year  of  his  age. 


CHAP.  IX. — THIRD  VOYAGE  L'P  THE  GAMBIA.     195 

miglit  be  desirable  for  them  both  to  proceed  up  the  Gambia  at 
once,  and  take  Sallah  with  them,  or  let  him  follow  after,  if 
judged  the  best.  You  will,  of  course,  give  Mr,  Tox,  your  suc- 
cessor, all  necessary  instructions.  I  trust  he  will  prove  a  faith- 
ful labourer.  I  hope  they  will  find  you  well.  Great  changes 
have  taken  place  here.  Mr.  Watson  and  Mr.  James  have  both 
died  since  Conference ;  but  our  consolation  is  that  '  the  Lord, 
reignetli,'  and  will  order  all  for  the  best. 

"  I  am,  dear  brother,  yours  affectionately, 

"  John  Beecham." 
"  To  Rev.  W.  Moiderr 

Mr.  Dove  proceeded  to  Macarthy's  Island  on  a  temporary 
visit  soon  after  his  arrival,  leaving  Mrs.  Dove  for  a  time  at  St. 
Mary's.  On  his  return,  they  paid  a  visit  to  the  Island  of 
Goree ;  and  when  the  rainy  season  had  passed  over,  they 
ascended  the  Gambia,  and  commenced  their  labours  in  the  true 
missionary  spirit.  Aided  by  an  additional  grant  from  the 
Southampton  Committee,  and  by  liberal  contribntions  from  the 
friends  of  Missions  at  Bathurst,  Mr.  Dove  soon  succeeded  in 
the  erection  of  a  commodious  Mission-House,  and  other  build- 
ings which  were  necessary  for  the  Station,  occupying  in  the 
mean  time  the  humble  temporary  house  which  we  at  first  put  up 
for  the  Xative  Teacher.  The  attention  required  by  these  secular 
matters  necessarily  occupied  much  of  the  time  of  the  Mission- 
ary ;  but  he  found  opportunities,  notwithstanding,  to  visit,  in 
connexion  with  the  Native  Teachers,  several  Mandingo  and 
Foola  towns  in  the  neighbourhood.  Although  the  Mission 
never  succeeded  with  the  particular  tribe  for  whose  special 
benefit  it  was  organized,  to  the  extent  that  was  anticipated  by 
its  -sanguine  and  benevolent  projectors,  it  was,  nevertheless, 
made  an  instrument  of  great  blessing  to  other  natives,  espe- 
cially to  the  liberated  Africans  of  different  nations,  many  hun- 
dreds of  whom  had  been  previously  located  on  Macarthy's 
Island.  Among  these  people  Mr.  Dove  and  his  assistants 
laboured  with  great  success,  more  than  one  hundred  bemg' 
added  to  the  church  during  the  first  \ear,  whilst  the  Mission 
school  was  reported  to  be  in  a  prosperous  state.      A  small 

o  2 


196  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

chapel  was  soon  erected  at  Fatoto,  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
island,  where  a  liberated  African  village  had  sprung  up  ;  and 
considerable  progress  was  realized  from  year  to  year  in  every 
department  of  the  work. 

Having  laboured  for  three  years  at  Macarthy's  Island,  and 
suffered  much  from  fever  at  different  times,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Dove  returned  to  England  in  the  month  of  May,  1836;  and 
were  succeeded  by  Mr.  Pox,  who  now  came  out  to  the  Gambia 
for  the  second  time.  On  this  occasion,  Mr.  Fox  was  accom- 
panied by  the  Eev.  E.  M.  MacBrair,  who  was  sent  on  a  special 
mission  to  attempt  to  reduce  the  Foola  and  Mandiogo  lan- 
guages to  a  grammatical  form,  and  to  translate  into  these 
tongues  a  portion  of  Holy  Scripture ;  the  Southampton  Com- 
mittee having  generously  granted  a  thousand  pounds  for  this 
object.  The  learned  Missionaiy  found  the  climate  of  Western 
Africa  very  unfriendly  to  literary  pursuits ;  he  moreover  met 
with  other  difficulties,  in  the  form  of  opposition  to  missionary 
labours  from  European  residents  at  Macarthy's  Island,  such 
as  had  never  before  been  experienced.  He,  nevertheless,  made 
some  progress ;  and,  after  a  residence  at  the  Gambia  of  about 
eight  months,  he  returned  to  England,  where,  with  the  aid  of 
intelligent  natives,  he  finished  his  undertaking,  and  committed 
to  the  press  a  Grammar  of  the  Eoola  language,  and  the 
Gospel  according  to  St.  Matthew  in  Mandingo. 

On  taking  charge  of  the  Mission  at  Macarthy's  Island,  Mr. 
Eox  gave  ample  proof  of  his  zeal  and  earnestness  in  the  good 
cause  in  which  he  was  engaged ;  and  having  left  his  wife,  on 
account  of  the  delicate  state  of  her  health,  in  England,  and 
being  joined  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Swallow,  who  arrived  in  Novem- 
ber, 1837,  he  felt  himself  at  liberty  to  take  several  interest- 
ing journeys  into  the  more  remote  interior.  These  journeys 
extended  at  different  times  to  the  capitals  of  Woolie  and 
Eondou,  of  which  he  afterwards  published  an  interesting 
account,  reporting  the  willingness  of  the  Kings  of  these  places 
to  receive  Missionaries.  Daring  his  connexion  with  the  Macar- 
thy's Island  Mission,  Mr.  Eox  had  much  arduous  labour  and 
many  weighty  responsibilities  of  a  secular  kind,  in  repairing 
and    enlarging    the    Mission  premises,    and    in   clearing    the 


CHAP.  IX. — THIED  VOYAGE  UP  THE  GAMBIA.    197 

•six  hundred  acres  of  land  granted  b\^  Government  for  the  use  of 
the  Foolas,  although  they  never  occupied  it.  lie  had,  more- 
over, to  perform  many  voyages  up  and  down  the  river,  to 
counsel  and  assist  his  junior  brethren  in  seasons  of  affliction  and 
bereavement.  These  exertions  told  upon  his  health  and  con- 
stitution, strong  and  robust  as  they  were  ;  and,  finding  the  need 
of  a  change,  he  embarked  for  England  in  June,  1839,  accom- 
panied by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Spence,  who  had  been  sent  out  to 
attend  to  the  secular  affairs  of  the  Foola  Mission,  but  who  were 
thus  obliged  to  return  home  in  a  few  months,  in  consequence  of 
affliction. 

In  the  mean  time,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Swallow  removed  to  St, 
Mary's,  and  were  succeeded  by  the  Eev.  W.  S.  F.  and  Mrs. 
Moss,  who  arrived  at  Macarthy's  on  the  30th  of  November, 
1838.  On  the  22nd  of  January,  1839,  Mrs.  Moss  fell  a  sacri- 
fice to  the  climate ;  and  her  bereaved  husband  soon  afterwards 
came  down  to  St.  Mar}''s,  and,  in  the  following  year,  returned 
to  England,  in  a  debilitated  state  of  health.  Mr.  Moss  after- 
wards laboured  successfully  for  several  years  in  Jamaica,  and 
is  now  the  respected  Chairman  of  the  Portsmouth  District. 
The  vacancy  thus  occasioned  was  supplied  by  the  appointment 
of  the  Kev.  William  and  Mrs.  James,  who  arrived  at  Macarthy's 
Island  in  the  month  of  May,  1840;  but  the  labours  of  this 
timiable  and  worthy  couple  were  soon  terminated ;  for  Mr.  James 
was  cut  down  by  fever  on  the  1st  of  July,  before  he  had  been 
three  months  on  the  Station  ;  and  his  bereaved  widow  embarked 
for  England  a  few  weeks  afterwards,  having  received  substantial 
tokens  of  sympathy  from  the  Missionaries  and  the  European, 
gentlemen  at  St.  Mary's. 

On  the  expiration  of  the  five  years  during  which  Dr.  Lindo 
and  the  Southampton  Committee  had  guaranteed  to  the  Wes- 
leyan  Missionary  Society  the  sum  of  £350  per  annum,  for  the 
support  of  a  Missionary  and  two  Native  Teachers  at  Macarthy's 
Island,  that  organization  was  dissolved  ;  and  a  new  Committee 
was  formed  in  London,  consisting  of  the  same  parties,  with 
some  additions,  for  the  special  purpose  of  promoting  education 
and  civilization ;  the  support  of  the  Missionaries  being  left  to 
the  parent  Society.     The  new  Committee  was  well  sustained. 


198  PART  T. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

and  soon  found  itself  in  a  position  to  appropriate  a  thousand 
pounds  for  the  erection  of  an  Institution  in  -which  to  educate  the 
sons  of  native  Kings  and  Chiefs.  When  the  buildings  were 
completed,  a  few  royal  pupils  were  collected ;  and,  although  the 
noble  design  could  not  be  carried  out  to  the  extent  originally 
contemplated,  in  consequence  of  numerous  difliculties,  we  have 
reason  to  hope  that  some  good  resulted  from  this  important 
department  of  Christian  labour. 

The  health  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Swallow  having  been  in  a  mea- 
sure recruited  by  their  visit  to  England,  they  returned  to  the 
Gambia,  and  arrived  at  Macarthy's  Island  in  the  month  of 
January,  1841.  In  the  prosecution  of  their  important  Mission, 
these  devoted  servants  of  the  Lord  nobly  struggled  against  the 
influence  of  the  climate  ;  but,  notwithstanding  repeated  visits  to 
the  Cape  Verd  Islands  and  Goree  for  a  change  of  air,  they 
suffered  greatly.  They  were  first  bereaved  of  a  dear  child  ;  and 
then,  on  the  28tli  of  January,  1843,  Mrs.  Swallow  was  called 
to  her  reward  in  heaven ;  soon  after  whicli  her  bereaved  hus- 
band returned  to  England,  with  his  own  health  much  impaired. 
In  the  mean  time,  the  Eev.  Samuel  Symons  had  been  sent  out  to 
reinforce  the  Mission,  and  especially  to  superintend  the  educa- 
tional department  of  the  work ;  but,  after  labouring  for  two 
years  with  much  zeal  and  earnestness,  he  also  fell  a  sacrifice  to 
the  climate,  on  the  20tli  of  January,  1844.  In  consequence  of 
the  sickness  and  mcrtality  with  which  the  Mission  families 
were  visited,  the  Rev.  Benjamin  Chapman  having  been  obliged 
to  return  to  England  in  June,  1846,  on  account  of  severe  ill- 
ness, the  Bev.  George  Parsonson  was  left  alone  for  some 
months,  the  only  European  Missionary  at  the  Gambia;  and 
although  his  appointment  was  to  Macarthy's  Island,  iie 
was  obliged  to  remove  to  St.  Mary's,  in  connexion  with  whicli 
he  frequently  laboured  both  before  his  visit  to  England,  and 
after  his  return  to  the  country  in  1845. 

The  next  Missionary  appointed  to  Macarthy's  Island  was  the 
Eev.  Eobert  Lean  ;  but,  in  less  than  four  months  from  the 
time  of  his  arrival,  he  was  called  to  rest  from  his  labours.  He 
died,  happy  in  God,  on  the  23rd  of  March,  1848.  Since  the 
death  of  this  devoted  young  Missionary,  it  has  been  deemed 


CHAP.    IX. — THIED    VOYAGE    UP    Tllli:    GAMBIA.  199 

advisable  to  supply  the  Station  at  Macarthy's  Island  witli 
Native  Ministers,  under  the  direction  of  the  European  Mis- 
sionary at  St.  Mary's.  These  have  been  brought  chiefly 
from  Sierra  Leone ;  and  by  their  piety,  zeal,  and  intelli- 
gence, they  have  given  general  satisfaction.  The  llev.  Messrs. 
Joseph  May,  diaries  Knight,  Philip  ^Yilsou,  James  Hero,  and 
'F.  Clement,  themselves  the  fruit  of  missionary  labour,  and 
some  of  them  originally  rescued  from  the  horrors  of  slavery, 
have  in  succession  been  appointed  to  labour  in  connexion  with 
this  interesting  Mission,  and  have  been  made  a  great  blessing 
to  their  fellow  countrymen. 

The  noble  and  majestic  river  Gambia,  presenting  as  it  does 
the  most  direct  highway  from  England  to  the  interior  of 
Africa,  deserves  more  attention  than  it  has  hitherto  received ; 
and  we  still  entertain  the  hope  that  our  advanced  post  at 
Macarthy's  Island  v;ill  prove  to  be  the  first  of  a  chain  of 
Mission  Stations,  which  will  ultim.ately  reach  from  the  coast  to 
Timbuctoo  and  Sego,  on  the  banks  of  the  Niger.  In  the  mean 
time,  it  is  pleasing  to  know  that,  notwithstanding  the  dilhculties 
with  which  they  have  had  to  contend,  the  Missionaries  and 
Teachers  have  not  laboured  in  vain,  nor  spent  their  strength  for 
nought.  I  regard  it  as  the  highest  honour  and  one  of  the 
greatest  blessings  experienced  in  a  long  life  of  missionary 
labour,  to  have  been  permitted  to  plant  the  Gospel  in  these  dis- 
tant regions.  A  large  number  of  converted  natives  have  died  in 
the  faith  and  hope  of  the  Gospel  on  this  Station ;  whilst  niauy 
more  have  removed  to  distant  places,  carrying  with  them  and 
scattering  abroad  the  seed  of  the  kingdom.  And  there  are  now 
in  connexion  with  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  at  Macar- 
thy's Island  two  chapels^  one  Missionaiij,  nearly  two  hundred 
church  members,  and  one  hundred  and  forty-three  children  in 
the  Mission  school,  whilst  uj^ivards  of  Jour  hundred  natives  are 
reported  as  attending  the  jfiihlic  worship  of  God.  These  sta- 
tistics call  for  sincere  gratitude  to  Almighty  God  ;  but  they 
aflbrd  a  very  imperfect  idea  of  the  benelicial  results  of  this 
interesting  ]Mission,  much  good  being  done,  indirectly,  by  such 
a  light  shining  amid  surrounding  darkness. 


200  PAr^T    I. —  WESTERN    AFRICA. 


CHAPTER  X. 

MISCELLANEOUS  IXCIDEXTS. 

Pkogress  of  the  Mission  at  St.  Mary's — Soldier's  Wife— Pious  Sailor — 
Wreck  of  the  "  Norval  "—African  Traveller— Rev.  M.  B.  Cox— Visit 
to  Cape  St.  Mary— Brikow— Daranka — Barra  Point — Letter  from  Dr. 
To wnley— Farewell  Sermon— Letter  from  Pierre  Sallah— Embarkation 
for  England-^A  jNIan  overboard! — Cape  Verd  Islands — Unpleasant 
Incidents — Land  ahead — Arrival  at  Falmouth— Further  Progress  of 
St.  Mary's  Mission — Death  of  Missionaries — Present  State  of  the  Work 
— Conclusion. 

Whilst  anxiously  engaged  in  j)lanting  the  standard  of  the 
cross  in  the  more  interior  districts  of  Western  Africa,  we 
were  not  unmindful  of  the  state  of  the  work  at  St.  Mary's, 
where  the  Gospel  liad  been  preaclied  for  many  years.  Tlie  last 
year  of  our  residence  there  was  distinguished  by  much  of  the 
Divine  presence  and  blessing ;  and  our  minds  were  encouraged 
by  the  evidences  which  were  graciously  given  by  the  great  Head 
of  the  Church  that  our  labour  was  "  not  in  vain  in  the  Lord.'* 
The  schools  under  our  care  were  generally  prosperous ;  and  a 
number  of  adults  were  brought  to  a  knowledge  of  the  truth, 
abandoned  their  superstitious  practices,  and,  after  a  course  of 
instruction,  were  received  into  the  Christian  church  by  baptism. 
A  few  miscellaneous  incidents  also  occurred,  which  may  be 
briefly  noticed,  as  illustrative  of  the  character  of  the  people  and 
the  nature  of  our  work,  before  we  proceed  to  sketch  the  subse- 
quent history  of  the  principal  Gambia  Mission. 

There  is  one  aspect  of  the  great  missionary  enterprise  which 
is  seldom  thought  of,  but  which  is  nevertheless  of  great  import- 
ance ;  namely,  the  benefit  which  it  frequently  confers  upon  our 
own  countrymen  whose  lot  is  cast  in  foreign  lands.  I  witnessed 
some  affecting  illustrations  of  the  truth  of  this,  while  labouring 
at  the  Gambia.     Soon  after  the  commencement  of  the  Mandingo 


CHAP.    X. — MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  201 

war,  I  observed  in  the  congregation,  one  Sabbath  morning,  a 
white  female  of  respectable  appearance,  who  was  very  much 
affected  under  the  word.  It  was  the  first  Sabbath  of  the  year, 
and  I  was  preaching  from  the  parable  of  the  "  barren  fig-tree." 
After  the  service,  she  called  at  the  Mission-House,  and  intro- 
duced herself  as  the  wife  of  a  non-commissioned  officer  who  had 
been  called  in,  with  a  party  of  men,  from  the  Island  of  Ascension, 
to  aid  in  the  defence  of  the  colony.  I  spoke  to  her  on  the 
necessity  and  importance  of  experimental  religion,  when  she 
wept  bitterly ;  and,  as  tlie  tears  of  penitence  flowed  from  her 
eyes,  she  stated  that  she  once  knew  the  Lord,  and  had  formerly 
been  a  member  of  the  Methodist  Society  in  Yorkshire;  but, 
having  "  made  shipwreck  of  faith  and  a  good  conscience,"  she 
married  into  the  army,  and  left  her  native  country  about  four  years 
before,  since  which  time  she  said  she  had  never  heard  a  Gospel 
sermon  until  that  day.  While  she  sobbed  as  if  her  heart  would 
break,  she  exclaimed,  "  I  am  the  barren  fig-tree,  and  deserve  to 
be  cut  down  as  a  cumberer  of  the  ground."  I  endeavoured  to 
point  her  to  the  Saviour ;  and,  whilst  we  were  engaged  in  fervent 
prayer  on  her  behalf,  she  received  a  measure  of  consolation  at 
the  hands  of  God.  I  only  saw  her  once  again  after  this  ;  it 
was  at  the  soldiers'  encampment  on  the  field  of  battle ;  and  I 
embraced  the  opportunity  of  again  exhorting  her  to  look  to 
Jesus,  when  she  expressed  her  full  determination  to  serve  the 
Lord. 

On  another  occasion,  I  observed  an  aged  white  man  in  the 
congregation,  listening  with  eager  attention  to  the  word  of  life, 
while  tears  of  joy  rolled  down  his  furrowed  cheeks.  Immedi- 
ately after  the  service,  he  came  up  to  me,  and  expressed  his 
gratitude  for  being  permitted  once  more  to  worship  with  the 
people  of  God.  He  also  fervently  prayed  that  the  Lord  might 
bless  my  labours  in  that  dark  corner  of  the  earth.  This  was  a 
pious  old  sailor,  belonging  to  one  of  the  ships  of  war  in  the 
harbour,  who  had  thus  measured  his  steps  to  the  sanctuary  of 
Jehovah  as  soon  as  he  was  allowed  to  come  on  shore.  Thus 
was  I  occasionally  cheered  in  my  labours,  whilst  toiling  as  a 
lonely  Missionary  in  this  interesting  but  long  neglected  part  of 
the  world. 


302  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

About  this  time  a  melancholy  instance  of  shipwreck  occurred' 
on  the  leeward  coast.  The  ship  "  Norval,"  on  her  passage  from 
England  to  Cape  Coast,  struck  upon  a  reef  of  rocks,  and  was 
dashed  to  pieces.  The  passengers  and  crew  took  to  the  boats, 
some  of  whom  landed  on  the  opposite  shore,  and,  according  to 
report,  were  immediately  massacred  by  the  savage  natives; 
whilst  the  others,  after  being  exposed  to  the  most  imminent 
danger  for  three  days  and  three  nights,  reached  the  Gambia> 
and  were  saved.  The  boat  in  which  they  escaped  entered  the 
harbour  one  evening,  just  before  one  of  the  most  awful  thunder- 
storms that  I  ever  witnessed.  Had  they  been  detained  but  one 
hour  longer  outside  the  harbour,  it  appeared  utterly  impossible 
that  any  of  them  could  have  escaped  a  watery  grave.  The 
colonists  manifested  the  warmest  sympathy  for  the  unfortunate 
individuals  who  thus  landed  at  St.  Mary's.  Among  the  sufferers 
there  were  a  lady  and  a  gentleman,  who  were  kindly  received 
and  entertained  at  the  Government  house.  The  former,  though 
in  a  state  of  great  exhaustion  when  she  landed,  soon  regained 
her  strength,  and  returned  to  England ;  but  the  latter,  notwith- 
standing the  care  and  attention  bestowed  upon  him,  fell  a  victim, 
to  the  injuries  he  had  sustained ;  and  I  had  to  perform  the 
melancholy  duty  of  committing  his  remains  to  the  silent  tomb, 
in  a  land  of  strangers. 

Shorly  after  the  termination  of  the  Mandingo  war,  we  had  a 
visit  from  an  African  traveller,  Mr.  Coulthurst,  who  had  just 
arrived  from  England,  in  company  with  a  youthful  companion, 
intending  to  penetrate  into  the  interior,  after  the  example  of 
Mungo  Park  and  others.  The  young  man  soon  grew  tired  of 
Africa,  and  prudently  returned  home  by  the  first  vessel  which 
sailed  for  Europe,  while  Mr.  Coulthurst  resolved  to  proceed 
alone.  This  gentleman  entertained  peculiar  views  with  regard  to 
the  geography  of  Central  Africa.  Erora  the  circumstance  that 
Herodotus  mentions  only  one  great  river  in  Africa,  he  had 
imbibed  the  notion  that  the  Niger  and  the  Nile  were  connected 
by  some  mysterious  and  undiscovered  channel.  The  Landers 
having  discovered  the  mouths  of  the  Niger,  this  traveller  pro- 
posed to  ascend  that  river  in  a  canoe,  trace  its  connexion  with 
the  Nile,  down  which  he  intended  to  sail  to  the  Mediterranean, 


CHAP.    X. MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  20C 

and  return  to  England  with  laurels  such  as  his  predecessors  had 
never  won.  Though  his  resources  were  limited,  his  expecta- 
tions were  very  sanguine.  He  produced  a  map  of  Africa,  now 
before  me,  on  which  he  had  traced  the  outlines  of  his  theory ; 
and  no  argument  could  convince  him  of  the  fallacy  of  his 
reasoning.  His  last  night  at  the  Gambia  was  spent  with  us  at 
the  Mission-House ;  and,  finding  him  still  determined  to  proceed, 
we  commended  him  to  God  in  prayer  before  we  retired  to  rest. 
The  next  day  he  took  his  departure  for  the  Bight  of  Benin, 
having  obtained  a  passage  on  board  a  British  man-of-war.  A 
few  months  afterwards  we  heard  that  poor  Mr.  Coulthurst 
ascended  one  of  the  rivers,  was  taken  ill  with  fever,  returned  to 
the  man-of-war,  and  died  in  a  few  days,  having  scarcely  entered 
upon  the  project  he  h?.d  so  vainly  imagined. 

"We  were  next  favoured  with  a  visit  from  the  Eev.  Melville 
B.  Cox,  an  American  Missionary  connected  with  the  Methodist 
Episcopal  Church,  who  was  on  his  way  to  Liberia,  in  a  vessel 
called  the  *'  Jupiter."  He  remained  with  us  a  week  or  ten 
days,  and  appeared  much  pleased  both  with  the  country  and 
our  ^fission.  He  was  a  pious,  devoted,  and  intelligent  Minister, 
possessing  the  genuine  missionary  spirit ;  but  he  was  of  a  deli- 
cate, feeble  constitution,  and  not  at  all  adapted  for  the  hard- 
ships of  missionary  life  in  a  West  African  climate,  in  my 
opinion.  There  were  also  on  board  the  "  Jupiter  "  a  number  of 
coloured  emigrants,  several  of  v  horn  were  pious  persons,  and 
who  came  on  shore  once  or  twice  to  worship  with  us  at  St. 
Mary's.  Our  native  members  manifested  a  deep  interest  in  this 
servant  of  Christ  and  His  people  ;  and  on  their  departure  they 
were  followed  by  many  fervent  prayers  for  their  success.  Mr. 
Cox  was  the  first  American  Methodist  Missionary  sent  to 
Liberia.  He  was  possessed  of  enlarged  views  and  enthusiastic 
feelings  in  reference  to  the  work  in  which  he  was  about  to 
engage ;  and  talked  familiarly  of  planting  one  Mission  at  Sego, 
and  another  at  Timbuctoo,  on  the  banks  of  the  Niger.  But  his- 
course  was  soon  run.  He  had  only  been  in  Africa  a  few 
months,  and  had  scarcely  marked  out  his  plans  of  usefulness, 
when  he  was  called  to  his  reward.*     "When  the  intelligence  of 

*  The  Rev.  M.  B.  Cox  thus  recorded  his  views  of  the  place  aud  of  the 
state  of  the  Missiou  when  he  visited  the  Gambia ;  aud  being  the  testimony 


204  PAET    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

his  death  reached  the  Gambia,  we  felt  much  affected  ;  and  were 
obliged  to  fall  back  once  more  on  the  divinely-inspired  declara- 
tion, "  Shall  not  the  Judge  of  all  the  earth  do  right  ?  *' 

During  the  last  year  of  our  residence  at  the  Gambia,  I  visited 
several  places  on  the  mainland,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  St. 
Mary's,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  information  relative  to  the 
people  and  the  country,  preparatory  to  the  introduction  of  the 
Gospel  into  those  districts,  so  soon  as  means  should  be  avail- 
able for  that  purpose.  My  attention  was  first  directed  to  Cape 
St.  Mary's,  the  most  western  point  of  land  on  the  southern 
bank  of  the  Gambia.  It  forms  an  elevated  promontory,  the 
base  of  which  is  washed  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  I  set  out  for 
this  place  one  morning,  accompanied  by  my  friend  Charles 
Grant,  Esq.  We  had  a  pleasant  ride  along  the  beach  for  about 
three  miles,  till  we  came  to  the  Oyster  Creek,  where  an  amus- 
ing incident  occurred,  though  it  was  the  occasion  of  some  little 

of  a  stranger,  found  among  his  papers  after  his  decease,  and  published  by 
his  friends  in  America,  it  will  he  read  with  interest.  "  Bathurst  is  a  beauti- 
ful little  village  on  the  south  of  the  River  Gambia.  It  is  a  place  of  con- 
siderable trade,  and  must  ultimately  become  one  of  great  commercial  inter- 
est. The  cause  of  the  Redeemer  here  is  yet  in  its  infancy ;  but  a  good 
foundation,  I  trust,  is  laying.  The  confidence  of  the  natives  in  its  excel- 
lency is  every  day  increasing,  and  Christianity  evidently  holds  an  ascendancy 
in  the  place  that  will  justify  the  hope  of  great  ultimate  success.  The  Wes- 
leyan  Mission  is  doing  well.  The  station  is  under  the  charge  of  the  Rev. 
W.  Moister,  a  devoted  servant  of  Christ.  He  has  endured  his  two  years' 
toil  with  far  better  health  than  he  expected.  Several  have  been  added  to 
his  charge  the  last  year,  and  he  has  now  about  eighty  native  communicants. 
At  Macarthy's  Island  this  Mission  has  another  station,  now  under  the 
charge  of  a  Native  Preacher,  who  promises  great  success  to  the  church." 
In  reference  to  the  Mission  generally,  he  says,  "It  must  of  necessity,  with 
the  blessing  of  God,  exert  a  mighty  influence  on  the  wilderness  of  Africa. 
The  school  at  Bathurst  far  exceeded  my  expectatious.  Under  the  fostering 
care  of  both  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Moister,  who  have  taken  a  deep  interest  in 
instructing  the  scholars,  it  refutes  the  pitiful  slander  that  the  black  man, 
under  similar  circumstances,  is  inferior  in  intellect  to  the  white.  Many  of 
them  read  with  propriety  and  ease  the  English  and  Jalloff",  and  speak  the 
one  almost  as  well  as  the  other.  They  write  well,  read  well,  and  commit 
admirably.  Our  Wesleyan  brethren  have  shown  their  wisdom  in  selecting 
this  as  a  point  of  moral  effort  for  Western  Africa.  I  rejoice  that  so  powerful 
a  lever  is  found  here." — "  Remains  of  the  Rev.  M.  B.  Cox."' 


CHAP.   X. — MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  205 

inconvenience  to  us.  On  reacliing  the  bank  of  the  stream,  we 
dismounted,  intending  that  our  horses  should  swim,  one  on. 
either  side  of  the  canoe,  into  which  we  entered.  We  proceeded 
very  comfortably,  until  my  pony  seemed  inclined  to  surpass  us 
in  speed.  Not  wishing  to  check  him  in  his  progress,  I  incauti- 
ously gave  him  the  rein,  hoping  to  avail  myself  of  his  services 
on  the  other  side ;  but  the  sagacious  little  fellow  no  sooner 
found  himself  at  libert}^  than  he  turned  directly  round,  and 
swam  back  to  the  shore  we  had  just  left.  After  making  several 
attempts  to  induce  him  to  cross,  but  without  success,  I  sent 
him  home  by  a  Negro  boy  who  had  accompanied  us  thus  far, 
and  my  friend  and  I  continued  our  journey  with  one  horse^ 
walking  and  riding  alternately. 

About  ten  o'clock  a.m.,  we  came  to  Brikow,  the  Mandingo 
town  near  the  Cape.  According  to  African  etiquette,  we  went 
immediately  to  pay  our  respects  to  the  Alcaide,  or  Headman* 
whom  we  found  sitting  on  a  mat  at  the  door  of  his  hut,  busily 
engaged  in  cutting  tobacco  Jeaves  into  fine  shreds,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  drying  them  in  the  sun  to  make  into  snuff,  an  enor- 
mous quantity  of  which  he  was  in  the  habit  of  using.  Fastened 
to  his  side  he  had  a  snuff-box,  made  of  pieces  of  hollow  bam- 
boo cane,  beautifully  carved.  Attached  to  the  lid  there  was  an 
ivory  spoon,  by  which  he  conveyed  the  precious  powder  to  his 
extended  nostrils.  This  is  the  usual  mode  of  taking  snuff  in 
Africa.  It  is  also  often  used  for  rubbing  the  teeth,  and  gives 
them  a  pearly  whiteness.  The  old  Alcaide  had,  nevertheless^ 
a  very  venerable  appearance.  He  wore  a  long  beard,  which, 
with  his  curly  locks,  was  as  white  as  wool.  His  dress  con- 
sisted of  a  pang  thrown  round  his  waist,  a  red  woollen  cap  on 
his  head,  and  a  few  greegrees  hung  round  his  neck  and  arms. 
In  conversation  he  was  free  and  affable,  and  expressed  himself 
as  willing  to  send  his  children,  should  a  Mission  school  be 
established  in  the  neighbourhood.  We  then  walked  through 
the  town,  which  is  rather  extensive.  In  its  centre  stands  the 
mosque,  built  of  mud  and  thatched  with  grass,  as  are  most  of 
the  huts  in  the  place.  Near  the  town  we  saw  a  large  trap  for 
catching  lions,  leopards,  tigers,  hysenas,  and  other  wild  animals* 
which  abound  in  this  district.     This  contrivance  is  very  com- 


206  PAUT  1. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

moil  in  Africa.  The  trap  is  constructed  on  the  principle  of  an 
ordinary  wire  mouse-trap,  and  is  composed  of  a  number  of 
strong  stakes,  fixed  in  the  ground  in  a  circular  form,  leaving  a 
narrow  entrance,  the  bait  being  placed  in  the  inside.  When 
the  animal  has  once  entered,  it  cannot  escape  ;  and  the  natives 
surround  the  cage  in  the  morning,  and  easily  destroy  their 
victim  with  their  guns. 

About  half  a  mile  from  Erikow  there  is  a  stone  building,  two 
stories  high,  erected  by  Government  on  the  promontory  facing 
the  Atlantic,  as  a  place  of  resort  for  convalescent  officers  and 
merchants,  who  might  need  a  change  of  air  in  the  sickly  season. 
It  appears  to  be  well  adapted  for  this  purpose,  being  situated 
on  a  beautifully  elevated  situation,  and  commanding  a  fine  sea 
view.  At  the  time  of  our  visit,  however,  the  house  was  in  a 
very  dilapidated  condition.  To  this  place  we  were  followed  by 
a  number  of  natives,  who  supplied  us  with  milk  and  eggs,  and 
who  continued  begging,  as  usual,  for  every  thing  they  saw, 
although  they  had  been  well  paid  for  the  articles  we  purcliased 
of  them. 

Having  taken  some  refreshment,  and  gazed  for  some  time 
with  feelings  of  delight  upon  the  vast  ocean,  as  its  rolling 
billows  broke  on  the  rocky  beach  beneath  the  eminence  on 
which  we  stood,  we  walked  about  three  miles  through  the 
neighbouring  forest  to  visit  the  "  hemp  farm,"  an  experimental 
enterprise  of  the  "Gambia  Agricultural  Society."  Embosomed 
in  the  wood  we  found  a  neat  little  village,  inhabited  by  liberated 
Africans.  The  men  were  labouring  with  some  measure  of  suc- 
cess in  cultivating  the  hemp,  which  is  an  indigenous  plant  in 
that  c  untry.  On  returning  to  the  Cape,  I  saw  the  remains  of 
a  plough,  and  other  agricultural  implements,  lying  in  the  grass, 
which  had  been  brought  there  by  some  members  of  the  Society 
of  Friends,  who  madeaii  unsuccessful  attempt,  several  years  ago, 
to  introduce  the  arts  of  civilized  life  among  this  people.*     The 

*  This  philanthropic  attempt  to  benefit  the  Negro  race  was  made  about 
the  year  1823,  by  a  Committee  of  the  Society  of  Friends.  William  Single- 
ton, Richard  Smith,  and  John  Thompson  and  his  wife,  were  sent  out  in 
company  with  Mrs.  Kilham,  who  had  previously  visited  the  coast  of  Africa. 
In  this  case,  as  in  many  others,  the  great  barrier  to  success  was  the  climate. 


CHAP.    X. — MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  307 

day  being;  far  spent,  we  now  set  ont  on  our  return  to  Bathurst, 
re-crossed  the  Oyster  Creek  without  much  difficulty,  and  reached 
home  about  eight  o'clock  p.m.,  much  interested  with  the 
excursion,  and  with  an  impression  that  the  situation  of  Brikow 
was  favourable  for  a  Mission  station,  when  circumstances 
would  allow  us  to  extend  our  labours  in  that  direction. 

My  next  visit  to  the  mainland  was  to  a  place  called  Daranka, 
situated  on  tlie  southern  side  of  the  river,  above  St.  Mary's,  and 
in  the  territory  of  the  King  of  Comba.  On  Monday,  the  15th 
of  April,  1883,  at  the  kind  invitation  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  God- 
dard,  Mrs.  Moister  and  I  partook  luncheon  at  their  residence 
in  Bathurst,  in  company  with  his  Excellency  Governor  Eendall, 
and  a.  few  other  friends  ;  we  then  took  a  large  canoe,  and,  after 
a  delightful  sail  of  about  three  hours,  entered  the  creek  leading 
to  Mr.  Joiner's  farm,  where  we  arrived  about  sunset.  The 
scenery  on  every  hand  was  truly  delightfnl ;   and  we  Avere  much 

The  two  females  were  the  only  persons  of  this  party  who  lived  to  return  to 
England ;  their  companions  having  died  a  few  months  after  their  arrival  in 
Africa.  Mrs.  Kilham  continued  to  visit  the  coast  for  several  years  after- 
wards ;  and  her  labours  in  superintending  schools  and  other  benevolent 
engagements  were  made  a  great  blessing  in  Sierra  Leone  and  other  places. 
In  the  kindness  of  her  heart,  she  took  nnder  her  care  Sandanee,  from 
Goree.  and  INlahmadee,  from  the  Gambia,  whom  she  met  in  London,  whither 
they  had  gone  as  common  sailors.  She  educated  these  Negro  youths,  with 
the  hope  that  they  might  be  useful  to  their  fellow  countrymen  on  their 
return  to  Africa,  by  imparting  to  them  the  knowledge  which  they  had  thus 
acquired.  But  I  regret  to  state  that  these  anticipations  were  disappointed 
by  the  return  of  these  natives,  soon  afterwards,  to  all  the  heathenish  prac- 
tices to  which  they  had  been  formerly  addicted  ;  proving  to  a  demonstration 
that  nothing  but  the  grace  of  God  can  change  the  heart,  and  that  nothing 
but  the  Gospel  of  our  Lord  Jesus  Christ  can  prepare  the  way  for  true  civih- 
zation.  In  the  year  1832  I  saw  Mahmadec  in  the  interior.  He  had  then 
become  a  Mohammedan,  and  was  attired  in  his  native  dress,  and  decorated 
with  greegrees,  the  same  as  the  rest  of  his  sable  brethren.  He  retired  at  my 
approach,  as  if  conscious  of  his  ingratitude  and  sin  ;  but  I  followed  him  into  the 
bush,  and  remonstrated  with  him,  and  implored  him  to  turn  to  the  Lord.  Mrs, 
Kilham  died  at  sea,  in  the  course  of  the  same  year,  while  on  her  passage 
from  Liberia  to  Sierra  Leone,  whither  she  had  been  in  pursuit  of  the  blessed 
work  which  was  so  dear  to  her  heart.  This  melancholy  evenc  occm-red 
shortly  after  she  had  written  to  me  a  very  gratifying  letter  respecting  our 
•  schools  at  the  Gambia,  in  which  she  took  a  hvely  interest. 


308  PAET    I. TVESTERN   AFRICA. 

amused  witli  the  sportive  gambols  of  the  monkeys,  as  they  were 
leaping  and  chattering  among  the  trees  in  every  direction.  On 
the  approach  of  night  we  retired  to  rest  in  a  rude  habitation 
built  of  bamboo  canes ;  but  sleep  was  quite  out  of  the  question, 
in  consequence  of  the  swarms  of  mosquitoes  which  infested  the 
place.  When  at  home,  we  defended  ourselves  in  some  measure 
from  the  stings  of  those  troublesome  insects  by  having  the  bed 
furnished  with  a  net  curtain,  which  we  let  down,  and  tucked  in 
every  night,  after  having  fanned  out  every  buzzing  intruder 
with  a  towel.  Tn  the  present  instance,  however,  we  were  left 
without  any  defence ;  and  were  doomed  to  spend  a  sleepless 
night,  being  engaged  in  a  constant  but  useless  combat  with 
our  little  enemies. 

We  arose  early  next  morning,  and  took  a  ramble  on  the 
neighbouring  hills,  from  which  we  had  a  charming  prospect. 
We  then  set  out  for  Lamin,  a  place  about  two  miles  from 
Daranka,  where  the  Governor  had  located  a  number  of  liberated 
Africans,  and  commenced  a  brick  manufactory,  as  an  indus- 
trial experiment  for  their  benefit.  The  path  lay  through  a 
grove  of  lofty  trees,  which  formed  a  beautiful  shady  avenue. 
On  arriving  at  the  appointed  place,  we  joined  the  Governor 
and  a  large  party  of  friends,  and  we  took  breakfast  together  in 
a  shady  bower,  prepared  with  considerable  taste  for  the  occa- 
sion. Daring  the  day,  we  inspected  the  brick  works ;  and  were 
much  pleased  with  the  evidences  which  we  beheld  of  the 
industry  and  success  of  the  people  in  this  new  department  of 
labour.  In  the  afternoon,  we  walked  about  a  mile  to  see  a 
beautiful  little  stream  of  ruiming  water,  a  sight  which  we  had  not 
before  witnessed  during  our  residence  in  Africa,  and  which  re- 
minded us  of  the  charming  rivulets  in  our  native  land.  On 
returning  to  Daranka,  we  embarked  for  St.  Mary's;  where 
we  arrived  before  dark,  having  been  much  delighted  with  our 
excursion. 

In  addition  to  the  manufacture  of  bricks,  the  cultivation  of 
hemp,  and  other  industrial  pursuits,  incidentally  mentioned  as 
indicative  of  the  progress  of  civilization  at  the  Gambia,  I  may 
observe  that  experiments  have  been  made  in  the  growth  and 
cultivation  of  indigo,  cotton,  sugar,  and  tobacco,  with  some 


CHAP.    X. — MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  20i? 

degree  of  success,  and  should  the  climate  become  more  healthy 
by  the  clearing  of  the  land,  these  productions,  with  many  other 
valuable  articles,  might  soon  become  important  items  in  the 
exports  of  a  country  possessing  a  soil  so  peculiarly  fertile. 
The  natives  manifest  considerable  aptitude  in  the  acquirement  of 
mechanical  arts  ;  and  by  proper  instruction  they  would  doubt- 
less make  rapid  advancement  in  every  branch  of  useful  know- 
ledge. Experience  has  proved,  however,  that  no  effort  for  their 
temporal  benefit  will  be  of  permanent  advantage  without  a  due 
regard  to  the  elevating  truths  of  Christianity. 

On  Saturday,  the  25th  of  May,  1833,  the  Missionaries  and 
their  wives,  just  arrived  from  England,  accompanied  us  to 
Earra  Point,  the  scene  of  the  late  Mandingo  w^ar.  Previous  to 
our  departure  we  took  breakfast,  by  invitation,  with  J.  I.  S. 
Einden,  Esq.,  a  respectable  merchant  at  Bathurst,  and  son  of 
the  celebrated  engraver  of  the  same  name  in  London,  who  had 
kindly  offered  to  favour  us  with  a  trip  across  the  river  in  his. 
little  cutter.  After  a  pleasant  sail  of  about  an  hour  we  reached 
the  opposite  shore.  We  rested  for  a  short  time,  and  then, 
leaving  the  ladies  at  Eort  BuUon,  Mr.  Eox,  Mr.  Dove,  and 
I,  walked  up  with  Mr.  Einden  to  Yassou,  for  the  purpose  of 
paying  our  respects  to  King  Bruma.  The  ground  over  which 
w^e  passed,  and  the  trees  on  either  hand,  bore  evident  marks  of 
the  late  contest.  We  found  the  town  still  surrounded  by  a 
strong  stockade,  through  w'hich  we  entered  by  a  narrow  door. 
After  passing  through  several  dirty,  narrow  streets,  we  came  to 
the  entrance  of  the  royal  residence.  It  was  a  square  tower,  built 
of  mud,  the  interior  of  which  was  a  kind  of  hall,  having  the  w^alls 
ornamented  with  various  figures  rudely  carved  and  painted.  I 
also  observed  in  this  room  a  few  common  English  prints,  among 
which  were  the  portraits  of  Wellington  and  other  men  of  renown. 
After  waiting  for  some  time  in  this  place,  w^e  were  conducted 
through  a  courtyard  to  an  ordinary  mud-walled  hut,  on  entering 
which  we  were  introduced  at  once  to  the  King.  His  sable  Majesty 
was  not  seated  upon  a  throne,  but  reclining  upon  a  couch,  in  a 
state  of  beastly  intoxication.  With  the  assistance  of  his  Coun- 
cillors he  raised  himself  up  to  receive  us  with  true  African 
etiquette.    He  was  not  capable  of  much  conversation ;  and  we 

p 


'210  PART    I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

had  not  been  long  in  his  presence  before  I  saw  him  put  his 
hand  under  the  couch,  and  take  out  an  okl  English  tea  kettle. 
Tliis  was  the  King's  decanter,  in  which  he  kept  his  rum.  He 
.first  drank  out  of  the  spout  himself,  and  then  poured  a  quantity 
of  the  "fire-water"  into  a  calabash,  and  offered  it  to  ns  ;  but 
we  respectfully  declined  the  favour.  We  were  soon  surrounded 
by  several  of  tlie  King's  wives  and  Councillors,  and  a  number 
of  naked  children,  begging  for  rum.  The  calabasli  was  handed 
round  among  them,  and  they  drank  freely,  as  if  they  were  accus- 
tomed to  this  kind  of  beverage.  We  attempted  to  explain  to 
the  King  the  object  of  our  Mission  to  Africa,  which  he  pro- 
nounced to  be  "  very  good,"  whilst  in  reality  he  seemed  to 
care  nothing  about  it.  On  our  departure  he  made  us  a  present 
of  a  large  calabash  of  honey,  and  in  return  we  gave  him  a  few 
pieces  of  silver.  This  did  not  appear  to  satisfy  him,  however; 
for  he  begged  for  everything  he  saw  about  us,  even  for  a  pen- 
knife which  we  had  occasion  to  use  in  his  presence.  At  length 
we  took  our  leave  of  the  old  King,  thoroughly  disgusted  with 
such  a  specimen  of  African  royalty,  and  deeply  impressed  with 
the  moral  degradation  of  those  who  have  never  been  favoured 
with  the  light  of  the  Gospel.*  On  returning  to  Fort  BuUon, 
we  embarked  for  St.  Mary's,  where  we  arrived  before  sunset ; 
and  after  dinner  we  spent  a  pleasant  evening  with  our  friend  Mr. 
Grant,  in  religious  and  general  conversation,  as  we  had  often 
done  before. 

About  this  time  I  received  the  following  letter  from  the  Rev. 
Dr.  Townley,  who  had  recently  retired  from  the  office  of  Mis- 
sionary Secretary,  but  who  still  felt  a  deep  interest  in  the 
prosperity  of  the  work  of  God  in  foreign  lands.  I  have  pleasure 
in  placing  it  on  record,  not  only  because  of  the  relation  it  bears 
to  the  blessed  work  in  which  I  was  engaged,  but  also  as  an 
interesting  relic  of  a  dear  servant  of  God,  who  was  soon  after- 
wards called  to  rest  from  his  labours  : — 

*  Soon  after  our  arrival  in  England  we  heard  of  the  death  of  the  old  King 
Bruma,  According  to  the  accounts  we  received  of  this  event,  he  met 
with  an  untimely  end.  His  people  being  weary  of  his  rule,  and  of  his  disso- 
lute life,  they  fell  upon  him  and  massacred  him  in  his  hut,  and  his  soa 


CHAP.    X. — MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  311 

"Ramsgate,  Kent,  February  oth,  1833. 

"  My  dear  Brother, — When  your  kind  present  of  shells  and 
■manuscripts  arrived,  1  was  suffering  from  a  severe  illness,  of  sucli 
a  nature  as  to  render  my  recovery  exceedingly  doubtful, — an 
illness  evidently  brought  on  by  anxiety  and  over-exorlion, 
having  been  first  affected  with  it  at  the  close  of  my  President- 
ship at  the  Leeds  Conference ;  but  from  which  I  had,  I  hoped, 
partially  recovered.  It  is  now  a  year  since  it  returned  with  so 
much  violence  as  to  render  it  necessary  for  me  to  relinquish 
active  duties  ;  and  at  the  last  Conference  I  was  compelled,  by 
ray  debilitated  state,  to  yield  to  sit  down  as  Supernumerary 
Preacher.  Contrary  to  all  human  expectation  I  still  survive, 
and  appear,  though  slowly,  to  convalesce,  whilst  my  esteemed 
brethren,  Messrs.  Watson  and  James,  have  both  been  called 
away  by  death  since  the  Conference;  besides  Dr.  Adam  Clarke, 
Mr.  T.  Stanle}^  Mr.  Storey,  and  many  others ;  in  all  seventeen. 
*  This  is  the  Lord's  doing ;'  and  it  is  cause  of  astonishment 
that,  whilst  others  more  likely  for  life  are  called  away,  I  am 
spared.     O  that  it  may  be  for  His  glory ! 

"  I  hope  you  and  Mrs.  Moister  are  both  well,  and  doing  well. 
I  am  sincerely  obliged  to  you  for  the  shells  and  manuscripts. 
Unfortunately,  I  do  not  understand  Arabic ;  and  will  therefore 
thank  you  to  give  me  the  particulars  of  their  contents,  and  tlie 
manner  in  which  they  came  into  your  possession.  I  am  aware 
that  some  of  the  Mohammedans  can  read  Arabic,  and  possess 
the  Psalms,  as  well  as  the  Koran,  in  tliat  language.  By  whom 
were  the  manuscripts  written?  and  are  such  manuscripts  in 
great  repute  among  the  people  ?  I  shall  be  obliged  by  any  par- 
ticulars you  can  give  me  of  the  character,  habits,  and  customs 
of  the  native  tribes  around  you.  I  shall  also  thank  you  for  any 
information  relative  to  the  productions  of  the  country, — animal, 
vegetable,  and  mineral, — and  for  any  remarks  on  the  soil  and 
climate.  Do  you  know  much  about  the  colony  of  Liberia,  and 
the  progress  it  is  making?  How  are  Cupidon  and  Sallah  get- 
ting on  ?  Are  they  efficient  helps  ?  Do  the  schools  prosper  ? 
How  are  they  doing  in  Sierra  Leone?  I  rejoice  that  your 
labours  have  not  been  in  vain  in  the  Lord.  Be  assured  that 
you  and  Mrs.  Moister  are  not  forgotten  by  us  at  the  throne  of 

p  3 


212  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

grace.     With  my  kind  love  to  you  both,  in  which  I  am  joined 
by  ray  dear  wife,  I  am 

"  Yom-s  affectionately, 

"James  Townley." 
"  To  Rev.  ir.  Moister." 

I  had  great  pleasure  in  forwarding  to  the  venerable  Doctor 
such  information  as  I  could  collect  on  the  various  subjects  in 
which  he  manifested  such  a  lively  interest :  but,  before  my  com- 
munication reached  England,  he  had  been  called  to  his  reward 
:.n  heaven.  I  received,  however,  an  affectionate  acknowledgment 
from  his  bereaved  widow ;  who  expressed  herself  as  sympa- 
thizing sincerely  with  her  dear  departed  husband,  in  his  earnest 
desire  to  promote  the  extension  of  the  kingdom  of  Christ  in 
heathen  lands. 

About  two  months  after  the  arrival  of  the  Missionaries  and 
their  wives,  who  were  sent  out  to  relieve  us,  a  favourable 
opportunity  presented  itself  for  our  return  to  England  ;  and  we 
prepared  for  our  departure.  Though  very  weak  and  debilitated 
by  the  effects  of  the  climate,  and  the  repeated  attacks  of  fever 
through  which  we  had  been  called  to  pass,  we  felt  truly  thank- 
ful to  our  heavenly  Eather  that  we  had  been  spared  in  the  land 
of  the  living,  whilst  so  many  had  falien.  On  Tuesday  evening, 
the  18th  of  June,  1833, 1  preached  for  the  last  time  at  Bathurst, 
to  a  crowded  and  deeply  affected  congregation.  Several  wept 
aloud ;  and  it  was  with  great  difficulty  that  I  continued  the 
exercises.  At  the  close  of  the  service  the  people  crowded 
around  the  Mission-House,  and  seemed  unwilling  to  leave  till 
we  informed  them  that  several  days  would  elapse  before  we 
should  take  our  departure,  in  the  course  of  which  they  would 
have  an  opportunity  of  seeing  us  again.  The  remaining  period 
of  our  stay  at  the  Gambia  was  occupied  chiefly  in  paying  and 
receiving  farewell  visits;  many  of  the  natives  testified  their 
affection  by  bringing  small  presents  of  poultry  and  provisions, 
for  our  use  during  the  passage ;  and  some  who  had  received 
instruction  in  the  Mission  school,  tried  their  skill  at  writing  fare- 
well addresses.  The  following  specimen  is  from  the  pen  of  Pierre 
Sallah;  an  outline  of  whose  history  has  already  been  given: — 


CHAP.   X. — MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  21S 

"  St.  Mary's,  June  ^Qt/i,  1833. 

"  Eev.  and  deau  Sir, — I  cannot  let  this  opportunity  pass 
without  addressing  to  you  these  few  lines,  because  I  am  very 
glad  to  tell  you  what  the  Lord  has  done  for  me  since  you  buy 
my  freedom.  The  Lord  has  done  great  things  for  me.  He 
delivered  me  from  trouble,  and  brought  me  among  His  people ; 
and  they  taught  me  to  read  and  write,  for  which  I  am  thankful. 
I  know  that  Jesus  Christ  died  for  me,  and  that  He  has  saved 
me  from  my  sins ;  I  feel  that  I  love  Him,  and  I  rejoice  to  do 
His  will.  I  look  only  to  the  Lord  God  of  Elijah,  the  God  of 
Abraham,  Isaac,  and  Jacob,  and  Moses.  I  shall  never  forget 
your  kindness  to  me,  and  I  hope  the  Lord  will  repay  you.  May 
the  Lord  bless  the  Missionary  Society,  and  all  Preachers  of  the 
Gospel  1  May  the  Lord  go  with  you  ;  and  may  we  all  meet  in 
heaven,  where  we  shall  part  no  more  for  ever  !     I  am 

"  Your  humble  servant  in  the  Gospel, 

"Pierre  Sallah." 

"  To  Rev.  W.  Moister:' 

On  Saturday,  the  22nd  of  June,  1833,  we  embarked  for 
England  by  the  brigantine  "  Columbine,"  commanded  by  Cap- 
tain Pilcher.  Many  of  our  dear  people  accompanied  us  to  the 
beach,  and  wept  bitterly  at  the  thought  that  they  would  pro- 
bably see  us  no  more  in  this  world.  We  commended  them  to 
God  in  prayer,  and  reluctantly  took  our  leave  of  a  place  and 
a  people  that  will  live  in  our  affectionate  remembrance  until  the 
day  of  our  death.  Our  feelings  of  regret  at  leaving  the  Gambia 
were  enhanced,  not  only  by  the  circumstance  of  its  being  the 
first  scene  of  our  missionary  labours,  but  by  the  fact  that  we 
had  received  marks  of  kindness  from  all  classes  of  the  commu- 
nity, with  whom  we  had  lived  in  harmony  and  love  during  the 
whole  period  of  our  appointment.  We  were  accompanied  down 
the  river  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fox,  Mrs.  Dove,  (Mr.  Dove  having 
left  for  Macarthy's  Island,)  Messrs.  Einden,  Brown,  and  other 
friends,  who  kindly  remained  with  us  as  long  as  they  could,  and 
then  returned  to  St.  Mary's,  in  Mr.  Brown's  little  schooner, 
which  was  in  attendance,  whilst  we  kept  on  our  course  in  the 
"  Columbine  "  towards  our  native  land. 


214  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFEICA. 

Our  passage  home  was  peculiarly  eventful ;  and  we  saw,  iii' 
many  instances,  the  hand  of  God  clearly  displayed.  When  we 
had  been  at  sea  about  a  week,  while  seated  in  the  cabin  one- 
evening,  conversing  with  the  Captain,  we  heard  the  startling 
cry  of  "  A  man  overboard  !  "  Instantly  we  ran  up  on  deck,  and 
found  that  Mr.  Orme,  the  chief  mate,  while  in  the  act  of  hook- 
ing on  the  "  boom  guy,"  had  lost  his  hold  of  the  rope,  and 
fallen  into  the  sea.  The  wind  was  blowing  fresh  at  the  time, 
and  we  could  just  see  the  poor  man  astern  of  the  vessel,  strug- 
gling in  the  water.  Having  no  boat  or  life-buoy  available,  we 
threw  out  two  or  three  hen-coops,  hoping  that  he  might  cling 
to  one  of  them  until  further  assistance  could  be  afforded.  In 
the  mean  time  the  helm  was  put  "  hard  down,"  and  the  vessel 
"went  about."  On  getting  the  ship  round  to  the  scene  of  the 
disaster,  a  noble-minded  sailor,  an  Irishman,  volunteered  to  jump- 
into  the  sea,  to  rescue  the  dying  man.  We  tied  a  rope  round 
his  waist,  and  he  plunged  into  the  water.  Although  it  was  very 
rough,  he  succeeded  in  reaching  the  poor  sufferer  before  he 
finally  sank.  We  then  drew  them  both  in  together :  but  I 
regret  to  say  that  the  poor  mate  had  breathed  his  last,  and  all 
the  efforts  we  could  make  to  restore  animation  proved  ineffectual. 
He  had  been  previously  suffering  from  an  attack  of  African 
fever ;  consequently  he  was  in  a  state  of  weakness  and  debility 
when  this  sad  accident  occurred.  It  is  not  surprising,  therefore, 
that  it  resulted  in  death.  During  the  day,  I  had  been  conversing 
with  Mr.  Orme  on  the  subject  of  religion ;  and  his  sudden  re- 
moval from  us  deeply  impressed  my  mind  with  the  importance 
of  embracing  every  opportunity  of  speaking  a  word  for  Christ ; 
for,  "  in  such  an  hour  as  we  think  not,  the  Son  of  Man  cometh." 

Then  followed  the  solemn  spectacle  of  a  funeral  at  sea.  As 
we  had  no  means  of  making  a  coffin,  the  remains  of  our  departed 
friend  were  wrapped  in  his  hammock,  with  a  heavy  weight 
attached,  so  that  the  body  might  sink  below  the  reach  of  the 
sharks,  which  were  already  pursuing  our  track.  The  corpse 
was  then  placed  upon  a  plank,  partly  projecting  over  the  bul- 
warks of  the  vessel.  It  was  the  gloomy  hour  of  midnight,  and 
a  death-like  stillness  prevailed,  N.othing  was  to  be  heard  but 
the  gentle  ripple  of  the  water  against  the  side  of  the  ship,  and^ 


CHAP.    X. — MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTJ.  215 

the  half  suppressed  sighs  and  sobs  of  the  hardj^  sailors,  who 
stood  ill  a  circle,  hat  in  hand,  while  I  read,  by  the  light  of  a 
lantern,  the  solemn  service  appointed  for  the  occasion.  While 
reading  the  words,  "We  therefore  commit  his  body  to  the  deep," 
&c.,  one  end  of  the  plank  was  elevated,  and  the  corpse  gently 
descended  into  the  watery  grave,  to  be  seen  no  more  till  the 
morning  of  the  resurrection,  when  the  "  sea  shall  give  up  the 
dead  that  are  therein."  A  few  words  of  exhortation  closed  this 
deeply  solemn  and  impressive  service  ;  and  we  retired  to  our 
berths  seriously  reflecting  on  the  uncertainty  of  life,  and  of  all 
earthly  things. 

As  we  proceeded  on  our  course,  we  had  a  clear  view  of  seve- 
ral of  the  Cape  Verd  Islands  ;  and  we  were  favoured  with 
tolerably  fine  weather,  though  the  wind  was  rather  against  us. 
We  also  suffered  some  inconvenience  from  want  of  hands  ;  as,  in 
addition  to  the  loss  of  the  mate,  several  of  the  sailors  were  still 
confined  to  their  berths,  from  the  effects  of  the  African  fever. 
As  soon  as  we  got  out  to  sea,  I  found  my  own  health  improved 
so  rapidly,  that  I  was  able  to  take  the  helm  when  the  ship  was 
to  be  "put  about;"  and  in  some  measure  to  assist  the  Captain 
in  his  trying  circumstances. 

When  we  had  been  at  sea  about  three  weeks,  it  was  discovered 
that  we  had  a  very  scanty  supply  of  fire-wood  on  board ;  and 
we  had  serious  apprehensions  that  we  should  soon  be  without 
the  means  of  cooking  our  food.  Whilst  discussing  this  unplea- 
sant subject,  we  saw  at  a  distance  a  large  log  of  timber,  floating 
on  the  water.  We  steered  towards  it,  got  ready  the  tackle, 
hoisted  it  on  board,  and  were  thus  supplied  with  an  ample  stock 
of  fire-wood  during  the  remaining  part  of  our  voyage.  The 
infidel  might  regard  this  circumstance  as  a  matter  of  mere 
chance ;  but  we  considered  it  as  a  distinct  interposition  of 
Divine  Providence  on  our  behalf,  and  rendered  thanks  to  our 
heavenly  Father  for  His  watchful  care  over  us.  Adhering  to  the 
wood  were  thousands  of  barnacles  with  beautiful  shells,  which 
afl'orded  us  the  agreeable  and  interesting  employment  of  clean- 
ing and  arranging  them,  as  curiosities  for  our  friends  at  home. 

The  next  adventure  was  the  helmsman  asleep  at  his  post,  the 
"ship-aback,"  and  the  wheel   dashed  to  pieces;  which  required 


^16  PART   I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

•our  united  skill  and  labour  for  several  hours  to  put  it  in  repair. 
During  this  interval  we  were  exposed  to  some  danger,  as  we 
were  not  only  "  short-handed,"  but  the  accident  occurred  in  the 
night  time,  when  the  temporary  arrangement  for  steering  the  vessel 
till  the  wheel  was  mended  was  attended  with  some  difficulty. 

An  incident  occurred  also,  on  the  31st  of  July,  which  excited 
some  alarm  on  board  for  a  time,  which  in  the  end  proved  to 
have  been  unnecessary.  At  midnight  we  were  awoke  with  the 
melancholy  cry  of  "The  ship's  sprung  a  leak!"  We  immedi- 
ately arose  from  our  berths,  to  see  what  was  the  matter ;  and 
were  informed  by  the  Captain  that  the  vessel  had  five  and  a 
half  feet  of  water  in  the  hold ;  and  that  in  consequence  of  the 
pumps  being  choked  up  there  appeared  to  be  little  hope  of 
saving  her.  The  excitement  that  prevailed  on  board  was  inde- 
scribable. The  Captain  himself  was  much  concerned,  having 
a  valuable  cargo  on  board,  consisting  of  gold,  ivory,  bees'-wax, 
and  gum-arabic,  besides  two  lions,  a  crocodile,  crown-birds,  and 
other  natural  curiosities.  The  sick  men  crawled  from  their 
hammocks ;  and  all  hands  came  on  deck.  Amidst  the  general 
commotion  some  were  heard  crying  to  God  for  mercy.  The  long- 
boat was  got  ready,  and  we  put  on  our  warm  clothing,  that  we 
might  be  the  better  prepared  to  leave  the  ship  and  spend  the 
night  in  the  boat  in  the  open  sea  in  case  of  necessity.  But  after 
all  this  alarm,  to  our  inexpressible  joy,  the  sailors  succeeded  in 
the  removing  the  obstruction  from  the  bottom  of  the  pumps,  the 
water  was  soon  cleared  from  the  hold  of  the  vessel ;  and  as  the 
ship  appeared  to  have  received  no  serious  injury,  we  proceeded 
on  our  course  as  before. 

On  the  whole  our  passage  to  England  on  this  occasion 
was  dreary  and  trying  rather  than  really  perilous.  The  little 
incidents  just  mentioned  excited  us  only  for  the  moment,  and 
the  unpleasantness  connected  with  them  soon  passed  away. 
Captain  Pilcher  was  kind  and  attentive ;  and  I  and  my  dear 
wife  being  the  only  passengers  on  board,  we  enjoyed  the  oppor- 
tunity with  which  we  were  thus  favoured  for  reading  and  con- 
versation. As  we  had  either  light  winds  or  calms  nearly  all  the 
time,  our  progress  was  very  slow ;  and  having  lost  most  of  our 
poultry  in  attempting  to  save  the  poor  mate,  we  began  to  feel 


CHAP.    X. — MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  217 

tlie  want  of  fresh  provisions.  When  we  had  been  at  sea  about 
six  weeks,  and  were  approaching  the  mouth  of  the  English 
Channel,  we  fell  in  with  several  ships,  one  of  which  supplied 
us  with  a  bucket  of  potatoes  and  a  couple  of  fowls,  for  which 
we  were  very  grateful. 

On  the  morning  of  Monday,  the  12th  of  August,  we  heard 
the  cheering  sound  of  "  Land  a-head  !"  We  instantly  came  on 
deck,  and  beheld  with  feelings  of  gratitude  and  joy  the  distant 
blue  mountains  of  dear  Old  England.  On  the  following  day  a 
pilot  boat  came  alongside ;  and  as  the  wind  was  contrary,  and 
our  provisions  nearly  exhausted,  I  engaged  a  passage  for  myself 
and  Mrs.  Moister  to  the  shore,  and  we  took  our  leave  of  the 
*' Columbine"*  and  her  kind-hearted  Captain,  whom  we  hoped 
to  meet  again  in  London.  We  were  tossed  about  all  night  in 
the   pilot   boat ;    but   on  Wednesday  morning,  the  1-ith,   we 

*  The  subsequent  history  of  this  little  vessel  is  oue  of  mournful  interest. 
She  continued  to  trade  to  the  coast  of  Africa  for  a  few  years  ;  till  on  the 
27tli  of  November,  183S,  when  on  her  voyage  down  the  Channel,  bound  for 
the  Gambia,  she  encountered  a  terrific  gale  of  wind  off  Portland  Bill.  The 
gale  continued  during  the  night ;  and  on  the  following  morning  the 
''  Columbine"  was  seen  uearing  the  shore  on  Portland  Beach.  The  man  in 
charge  of  the  helm,  it  is  supposed,  was  forced  from  it  by  the  violence  of  the 
wind,  in  consequence  of  which  the  vessel  swung  round  ;  and,  being  caught 
between  two  tremendous  waves,  she  was  dashed  in  pieces  almost  instan- 
taneously, and  every  person  on  board  perished.  Among  the  passengers 
were  the  Rev.  Edward  J.  and  Mrs.  Peard,  a  Wesleyan  Missionary  and  his 
wife,  appointed  to  St.  Mary's,  who  were  thus  removed  to  a  "  better  country" 
by  this  mysterious  dispensation  of  Divine  Providence.  Their  bodies  having 
been  washed  on  shore  and  identified.  Dr.  Alder  went  down  and  improved  the 
solemn  event  by  an  impressive  sermon  ;  and  their  remains  were  interred  in 
the  burial-ground  connected  with  the  Wesleyan  chapel  at  Portland,  where  a 
neat  stone  with  an  inscription  was  erected  to  their  memory  by  the  members 
.of  Society  at  that  place.  When  on  a  visit  to  Portland,  oa  the  23rd  of 
October,  1849,  to  attend  a  Missionary  Meeting,  I  had  the  melancholy  plea- 
sure of  viewing  the  scene  of  this  sad  disaster,  and  of  reading  the  inscription 
on  the  gravestone  of  the  dear  Missionary  and  his  beloved  wife.  On  making 
an  allusion  to  the  circumstance  in  my  address  at  the  meeting,  and  stating 
that  I  had  sailed  for  thousands  of  miles  in  the  same  "  Columbine,"  the 
people  were  much  affected,  and  kindly  presented  me  with  a  small  cedar  box, 
as  a  memento,  which  I  highly  prize,  it  being  made  from  a  piece  of  the 
-wreck  of  the  ill-fated  vessel. 


218  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

entered  the  harbour  of  Falmouth.  Never  shall  we  forget  the 
cheering  sight  which  now  greeted  our  eyes,  so  long  accus- 
tomed to  gaze  on  the  dreary  wilds  of  Africa,  and  on  the 
mighty  ocean.  The  fields  were  waving  with  corn,  and  the 
whole  face  of  nature  wore  a  smiling  aspect.  With  feelings  of 
sincere  gratitude  to  our  heavenly  Father  for  His  preserving  good- 
ness, we  once  more  set  our  feet  upon  the  shores  of  our  dear 
native  land,  and  received  a  cordial  welcome  from  the  Kev. 
George  Taylor  and  his  amiable  family,  then  resident  in  Fal- 
mouth, who  showed  us  no  small  kindness  on  the  occasion.  In 
the  evening  we  proceeded  by  coach  to  London,  and  thenca  tO' 
the  north  of  England ;  and  on  meeting  with  us  once  more  in 
peace  and  in  safety,  after  our  perilous  Mission  to  Western  Africa, 
the  directors  of  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society,  as  well  as  our 
personal  friends,  rejoiced  with  us  that  our  lives  had  been  sO' 
mercifully  preserved  while  so  many  had  fallen  a  sacrifice  to  the 
climate.  Nor  were  we,  I  trust,  wanting  in  gratitude  and  praise 
to  our  heavenly  Father,  for  His  goodness  and  mercy,  as  dis- 
played in  our  wonderful  preservation.  I  could  sing  then,  as  I 
can  novi^,  in  review  of  the  past,  with  an  overflowing  heart : — 

"  When  all  thy  mercies,  O  my  God, 
My  rising  soul  surveys. 
Transported  with  the  view,  I  'm  lost 
In  wonder,  love,  and  praise." 

Before  we  bring  these  memorials  of  providence  and  grace  to 
a  close,  we  must  request  the  reader's  attention  to  a  brief  sketch 
of  the  subsequent  history  of  the  principal  Mission  station  on 
the  river  Gambia. 

Cheering  as  was  the  success  of  the  Missions  at  St.  Mary's, 
during  the  time  that  the  writer  was  connected  with  it,  he  has 
pleasure  in  stating  that  it  was  still  more  so  in  the  hands  of 
his  worthy  successor.  The  Eev.  W.  Fox  entered  upon  his 
duties  at  the  Gambia  in  the  true  spirit  of  a  Missionary ;  and, 
during  the  first  year  of  his  appointment,  upwards  of  one  hun- 
dred members  were  added  to  the  church.  Several  small  chapels 
and  preaching-places  were  erected  and  opened  in  the  villages 
on  the  island,  as  well  as  at  Barra  Point  on  the  mainland.     This 


CHAP.    X. — MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  319^ 

enlargement  of  the  work  was  called  for  by  the  arrival  of  several 
hundreds  of  liberated  Africans  from  Sierra  Leone  to  be  located 
at  the  Gambia.  In  the  following  year  the  congregation  at 
Eathurst  had  increased  to  such  an  extent  that  the  erection  of 
a  new  chapel  was  absolutely  necessary  ;  and  the  Missionary  Com- 
mittee having  generously  granted  £bOO  towards  the  object,  the 
foundation  stone  was  laid  by  His  Excellency  Lieutenant  Gover- 
nor Eendal,  on  the  3rd  of  December  1834,  in  the  presence  of  a 
large  concourse  of  people.  On  the  23rd  of  February,  1835,  the 
Mission  was  reinforced  by  the  arrival  from  England  of  the 
Eev.  Henry  and  Mrs.  Wilkinson ;  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eox,  being^ 
thus  relieved  of  their  charge,  took  a  voyage  to  the  Cape  Verd 
Islands  for  the  benefit  of  their  health.  Such  was  the  attach- 
ment and  devotedness  of  Mr.  Fox  to  his  beloved  work  that  he 
was  desirous  of  remaining  another  year  at  the  Gambia  ;  but  his 
health,  and  that  of  his  dear  wife,  still  continuing  in  a  very  pre- 
carious state,  they  embarked  for  England  on  the  30th  of  July, 
having  previously  taken  a  part  in  the  interesting  services  con- 
nected with  the  opening  of  the  new  chapel  on  the  5th  of  the 
same  month. 

In  the  year  1837,  the  Western  Coast  of  Afi'ica  was  visited  by 
that  awful  scourge  the  yellow  fever ;  and  more  than  one  half  the 
European  residents  at  St.  Mary's  were  removed  by  death.  One 
of  these  was  the  zealous  and  devoted  Missionary,  Mr.  Wilkin- 
son, who  died  happy  in  God,  and  somewhat  suddenly,  on  the 
24th  of  August,  On  the  following  day  he  was  buried  in  the 
chapel,  in  front  of  the  pulpit  from  which  he  had,  on  the  previous 
Sabbath,  preached  from  that  striking  text : — "  So  teach  us 
to  number  our  days  that  we  may  apply  our  hearts  unto 
wisdom;"  (Psalm  xc.  12 ;)  and  given  out  that  solemn  hymn, 
beginning — 

"  And  must  this  body  die  ? 

This  well-wrought  frame  decay  ? 
And  must  these  active  limbs  of  mine 
Lie  mould 'ring  in  the  clay  ?" 

The  Eev.  Thomas  Wall  was  immediately  sent  out  from  Eng- 
land to  supply  the  vacancy  thus  occasioned  at  St.  Mary's.  He 
arrived  on  the  2Cth  of  November,  in  company  with  Mr.  and. 


220  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

Mrs.  Swallow,  wlio  were  appointed  for  Macarthy's  Island.  The 
zealous  labours  of  Mr.  Wall  were  soon  terminated,  however ;  he 
finished  his  course  with  joy,  on  the  24th  of  August,  1838,  pre- 
cisely twelve  months  after  the  death  of  his  predecessor.  The 
station  was  now  supplied  for  a  time  by  Mr.  Swallow,  who  came 
down,  with  his  wife,  from  Macarthy's  on  the  death  of  Mr.  Wall ; 
but  they  were  both  in  a  weak  state  of  health,  and,  deriving  little 
or  no  benefit  from  a  trip  to  Goree,  they  were  obliged  to  return 
to  England  soon  afterwards. 

The  next  Missionary  appointed  for  St.  Mary's  was  the  Eev. 
E.  J.  Peard,  who,  with  Mrs.  Peard,  embarked  for  Africa  on 
the  23rd  of  November,  1838.  This  devoted  couple  were 
destined,  in  the  order  of  Providence,  never  to  set  their  feet  on 
Mission  ground ;  for  the  "Columbine,"  in  which  they  sailed, 
being  overtaken  by  a  severe  storm  in  the  English  Channel,  was 
driven  on  shore,  on  the  Chesil  Bank,  near  Weymouth,  and 
became  a  total  wreck,  when  every  soul  on  board  perished.  The 
bodies  of  the  Missionary  and  his  wife  having  been  washed  up 
and  identified,  they  were  interred  at  Portland,  as  stated  in  a 
previous  page.  The  Kev.  James  and  Mrs.  Parkinson  arrived 
at  St.  Mary's  on  the  I3th  of  December;  but  before  they  had 
'been  nine  months  in  the  colony,  they  were  both  cut  down  by 
•fever,  under  circumstances  peculiarly  affecting.  Mr.  Parkinson 
finished  his  brief  but  active  course  on  the  8th  of  September, 
1839  ;  and  his  wife  followed  him  to  a  better  country  four  days 
afterwards,  having  never  been  made  acquainted  with  her  sad 
bereavement,  for  fear  the  intelligence  might  be  more  than  she 
could  bear.  But  this  tale  of  woe  does  not  end  here.  A 
tender  infant  was  left,  which  was  soon  afterwards  sent  to 
England,  with  the  hope  that  its  life  might  be  saved;  but  it 
died  on  the  passage,  and  so  escaped  from  this  world  of  sin 
and  sorrow  to  join  the  society  of  its  sanctified  parents  in 
heaven. 

The  Eev.  W.  Fox,  having  visited  England,  after  several  years 
spent  on  the  Gambia,  chiefly  in  connexion  with  the  new  Mission 
at  Macarthy's  Island,  now  returned  to  Africa;  accompanied  by- 
Mrs.  Fox,  and  their  little  son,  as  well  as  by  the  Kev.  Mr.  and  Mrs, 
James,  and  the  Eev.  Mr.  English ;  the  former  of  whom  proceeded 


CHAP.    X. MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  221 

to  tlieir  appointed  station  at  Macarthy's  Island,  and  the  latter, 
beino^  soon  afterwards  removed  to  the  West  Indies,  laboured 
but  for  a  short  time  at  St.  Mary's.     A  trained  School  Teacher 
having  been  sent  out  from  England,  Mr.  Tox  was  authorized 
to  erect  a  commodious  school-house,  and  otherwise  to  extend 
the  Mission ;  but  in  the  midst  of  his  zealous  labours  he  was 
overtaken  by  the  most  afflictive  bereavements.     On  the  7th  of 
September,  1840,  Mrs.  Tox  sank  under  the  influence  of  fever, 
four  days  after  giving  birth  to  a  daughter;    their  little  sou 
having  been  called  away  by  death  only  a  week  before.     Thus 
was  the  poor  Missionary  left  a  lonely  widower,  with  the  care 
of  a  new-born  infant  on  his  hands.     The  little  orphan  was  sent 
to  England,  in  charge  of  Mr.  Moss,  who  was  obliged  to  return 
home  early  in  the  year  1841,  having  himself  been  bereaved  of 
his  beloved  partner.     Notwithstanding  his  repeated  afflictions 
and  bereavements,  Mr.  Fox  nobly  continued  at  his  post  for 
some  time  longer,  and  only  returned  to  England  finally  in  the 
month  of  Ma}^,  1843,  after  spending  ten  years  in  connexion 
with  the  Gambia  Missions.     Eor  a  full  account  of  his  success- 
ful labours  and  travels  on  the  coast,  and  in  the  interior,  we 
have  pleasure  in  referring  the  reader  to  his  interesting  work  on 
Western  Africa.     Mr.  Fox  was  accompanied  to  England  by 
Mr.  Swallow,  who  was  spared  to  fulfil  a  second  term  of  service 
on  the  Gambia  stations;  but  who  had   been  bereaved  of  his 
devoted  wife  by  death  at  St.  Mary's,  on  the  18  th  of  January. 

On  the  fifth  of  May,  1843,  the  Eev.  M.  Godman  arrived  at 
St.  Mary's,  accompanied  by  the  Hev.  G.  Parsonson,  who 
soon  afterwards  proceeded  to  his  station  at  Macarthy's  Island. 
Although  frequently  prostrated  by  fever.  Mi*.  Godman  was 
spared  to  labour  with  acceptance  and  efficiency  for  nearly  three 
years,  and  from  time  to  time  reported  the  society  and  congrega- 
tion under  his  care  to  be  in  a  prosperous  state,  and  the  school 
as  doing  well  under  the  judicious  management  of  Mr.  Lynn, 
the  trained  European  teacher.  He  considered  the  small  chapel 
at  Soldiers'  Town,  however,  to  be  too  near  the  Bathurst  chapel 
to  be  of  any  very  great  advantage ;  an  opinion  quite  natural, 
considering  their  close  proximity  to  each  other.  Early  in  the 
year  1846,  the  Mission  at  St.  Mary's  suffered  a  great  loss  in 


222  PART   I. — WESTERN    AFRICA. 

the  removal  by  death  of  Mr.  Lynn,  the  excellent  Teacher;  and 
towards  the  close  of  the  same  year,  Mr.  Godman  was  obliged 
to  embark  for  England,  in  consequence  of  the  sufferings  of  his 
beloved  wife,  which  terminated  in  death,  soon  after  they  reached 
their  native  land.  Mr.  Parsonson,  being  now  the  only  European 
Missionary  left  at  the  Gambia,  came  down  to  St.  Mary's,  to 
supply  the  more  important  station,  till  assistance  should  be  sent 
from  home. 

The  next  reinforcement  consisted  of  the  Eev.  G.  Meadows,  and 
the  Eev.  E.  Lean,  who  arrived  at  St.  Mary's  on  the  8th  of  Decem- 
ber, 1847  ;  and  in  a  few  months  afterwards  Mr.  Parsonson 
proceeded  to  England,  Mrs.  Parsonson  having  been  obliged  to 
leave  the  Gambia  some  time  before,  in  consequence  of  illness. 

The  respective  stations  on  the  Gambia  appearing  to  require 
the  oversight  of  a  Missionary  of  some  standing  and  experience 
in  the  work,  the  Committee  now  appointed  the  Eev.  Henry 
Badger  as  General  Superintendent  of  the  District.  Mr.  Badger, 
with  Mrs.  Badger,  arrived  at  St.  Mary's,  from  Sierra  Leone, 
where  he  had  spent  several  years  in  the  w^ork,  on  the  2 1st  of 
February,  1849.  Two  of  the  Native  Teachers  having  retired 
from  the  work,  in  consequence  of  some  misunderstanding 
between  them  and  one  of  the  resident  Missionaries,  their 
places  were  supplied  by  Native  Teachers  from  Sierra  Leone; 
and  for  several  years  the  work  advanced  in  a  pleasing  manner 
under  the  united  labours  of  Messrs  Badger,  Meadows,  and 
Hirst,  the  last  of  whom  was  appointed  to  St.  Mary's  in  1850. 
Among  other  evidences  of  prosperity,  we  find  special  mention 
made  in  the  reports  of  the  enlargement  of  the  chapel  at 
Bathurst,  and  the  erection  of  a  new  gallery  to  accommodate  the 
increasing  number  of  school  children  who  attended  Divine 
service.* 

*  Ih  a  letter  addressed  to  the  author,  under  date  of  St.  Mary's,  May  7th, 
1850,  Mr.  Badger  says:  "At  St.  Mary's  the  Lord  is  doing  a  great  work. 
We  have  enlarged  and  improved  the  chapel  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £500.  Our 
chapel  is  now  decidedly  the  best  on  the  Western  Coast  of  Africa,  and  it  is 
filled  on  Sunday  mornings.  We  seat  two  hundred  and  eighty  children  in 
one  of  the  galleries.  They  are  traiaed  to  sing  by  a  young  man,  who  was  my 
pupil  in  Sierra  Leone.  Last  Sunday  morning  they  sang  the  *  Hallelujah 
Chorus/  by  Handel,  in  four  parts.     To  my  astonishment  they  have  learned 


CHAP.    X. — MISCELLANEOUS    INCIDENTS.  223 

Mr.  Badger,  having  lost  his  devoted  wife  at  St.  Mary's, 
returned  to  England  towards  the  dose  of  the  year  1852;  and 
Mr.  Meadows,  who  had  been  on  a  visit  to  England,  was 
appointed  his  successor,  as  General  Superintendent,  at  the 
Conference  of  the  following  year.  This  zealous  Missionary 
was  soon  afterwards  joined  by  the  Eev.  John  Bridgart,  who 
was  sent  out  to  fill  a  vacancy.  These  brethren  laboured  for 
some  time  with  considerable  success,  but  at  length  their  health 
gave  way,  under  the  influence  of  the  trying  climate ;  and  Mr. 
Meadow^s  was  under  the  necessity  of  returning  to  England  in 
the  summer  of  1856.  The  Eev.  A.  J.  Gurney  was  now  sent 
out  to  supply  the  vacancy  at  Bathurst,  where  he  arrived  in  the 
month  of  November.  In  a  few  months  afterwards,  Mr.  Bridgart 
was  compelled  by  sickness  to  embark  for  Europe ;  but,  having 
recruited  his  health,  he  returned  to  the  Gambia  with  Mrs. 
Bridgart  in  November,  1857.  The  Eev.  E.  Cooper  had 
arrived  at  St.  Mary's  somewhat  earlier  in  the  same  year,  to 
supply  the  place  of  Mr.  Gurney,  who  was  removed  to  the 
Gold  Coast  District,  to  fill  an  important  vacancy  there. 

The  necessities  of  the  work  appearing  to  require  such  an 
arrangement,  Mr.  Bridgart  was  removed  from  the  Gambia  to 
Sierra  Leone,  as  General  Superintendent  of  that  District,  in 
December,  1858;  and  the  Eev.  J.  H.  Peat  was  sent  out  from 
England  to  supply  the  vacancy  at  St.  Mary's.  For  several 
years  in  succession,  the  sickness  and  mortality  among  the 
Missionaries  at  the  Gambia  had  been  much  less  than  formerly ; 
but  in  1859  the  Society  was  called  to  suffer  a  severe  loss  in 
the  removal  of  Mr.  Cooper,  who  died  of  fever,  happy  in  God, 
at  St.  Mary's,  on  the  13th  of  August.  In  November,  1860, 
the  Eev.  E.  Daw  was  sent  out  to  the  assistance  of  Mr.  Peat, 
at  St.  Mary's,  where  he  arrived  in  safety  on  the  8th  of  Decem- 
ber. From  this  period  the  two  brethren  just  named  prosecuted 
their  beloved  work  with  less  interruption  from  sickness   than 

this  grand  and  overpowering  piece  of  music  in  about  a  month.  We  are  all 
hard  at  work,  and  God  is  working  with  us,  which  is  best  of  all.  The  preaching 
and  prayer-meetings  are  well  attended ;  and  many  souls  have  recently  been 
converted  to  God.  Last  year  we  added  seventy-six  to  the  number  of  our 
church  members  on  this  station." 


324  PAUT   I. — WESTEEN    AFRICA. 

was  generally  experienced  by  their  predecessors ;  and  hopes  are 
now  entertained  that  the  climate  of  Western  Africa  is  becoming 
less  fatal  to  Europeans  than  formerly.  In  the  month  of  Novem- 
ber, 1861,  the  Gambia  stations  were  favoured  with  a  visit  from 
the  Kev.  W.  West,  when  on  his  way  to  Sierra  Leone  and  Cape 
Coast ;  he  having  been  appointed,  at  the  preceding  Conference, 
the  General  Superintendent  of  all  the  three  Districts,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  want  of  a  sufHcient  number  of  experienced 
Missionaries  to  take  the  oversight  of  the  work.  Mr.  Peat 
and  Mr.  Daw  were  both  spared  to  return  to  England  ;  and  the 
next  Missionary  appointed  to  labour  at  St.  Mary's,  was  the  Eev. 
Arthur  A.  Southerns.  In  1864  he  was  relieved  by  the  Eev. 
V.  Tyas;  who,  assisted  by  Mr.  Hero,  the  Native  Minister, 
continues  to  occupy  the  station. 

The  last  accounts  received  from  the  Gambia  represent  the  St. 
Mary's  Mission  as  being  in  a  prosperous  state.  After  supplying 
the  vacancies  occasioned  by  deaths  and  removals,  there  were  eigM 
hundred  and  forty -eiglit  converted  natives  imited  in  church  felloiv- 
ship,  seven  hundred  and  twenty  four  scholars  in  the  Mission 
schools,  and  two  thousand  seven  hundred  worshi'ppers,  were 
assembling  together,  from  Sabbath  to  Sabbath,  in  five  chapels  and 
four  other  preaching  places.  And  the  Missionaries  were  antici- 
pating still  better  days. 

But  however  grateful  we  may  feel  for  past  success,  and  how- 
ever hopeful  for  the  future,  we  must  remember  the  work  is  not 
yet  finished.  It  has  only  been  just  commenced.  In  our  joy- 
ful contemplation  of  the  rays  of  light  which  have  begun  to 
shine  upon  this  land  of  heathen  darkness,  let  us  not  forget  the 
mighty  mass  of  ignorance  and  superstition  in  which  the  con- 
tinent of  Africa,  as  a  whole,  is  still  involved.  We  rejoice  to 
know  that,  in  addition  to  what  has  been  eflFected  by  other 
Christian  instrumentalities,  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society 
numbers  9,579  church  members,  6,535  scholars  in  the  Mission 
schools,  and  25,000  hearers  of  the  Gospel,  on  the  respective 
stations  in  Western  Africa ;  but  let  us  not  hide  from  ourselves 
the  appalling  fact  that  there  are  still  hundreds  of  thousands,  yea, 
millions,  of  the  people,  "  still  sitting  in  darkness  and  in  the 
shadow  of  death."     Whether  Mohammedans  or  Paorans,  these 


CHAP.    X. — MISCELLANEOUS    IK'CIDENTS.  225 

deluded  sable  sons  and  daughters  of  Ham  are  literally  witliout 
God  and  without  hope  in  the  world.  They  never  heard  the 
name  of  Jesus.  They  never  knew  the  Christian  Sabbath. 
They  never  heard  the  voice  of  a  Christian  teacher.  They  never 
saw  that  Book  which  alone  reveals  the  mercy  of  God  to  man. 
And  yet  these  degraded  Africans  are  possessed  of  precious, 
never-dying  souls.  They  must  be  for  ever  happy  with  God  in 
heaven,  or  for  ever  miserable  in  hell,  where  peace  and  hope  can 
never  come.  For  them  the  Saviour  died  upon  the  cross.  They 
are,  moreover,  our  brethren  and  sisters,  bone  of  our  bone,  flesh 
of  our  flesh.  We  have  all  been  created  by  the  same  Almighty 
power,  preserved  by  the  same  goodness,  and  redeemed  by  the 
same  precious  blood.  Let  no  one  say  with  wicked  Cain,  "Am 
I  my  brother's  keeper  ?  "  Let  us  rather  acknowledge  the 
authority  of  Him  who  said  to  His  disciples,  and  who  says  to 
us,  "  Go  ye  into  all  the  world,  and  preach  the  Gospel  to  every 
creature."  O  that  I  could  convey  to  the  reader  a  measure  of 
that  feeling  by  which  my  ow^n  mind  has  often  been  influenced, 
when  standing  in  the  interior  of  Africa,  a  lonely  Missionary, 
surrounded  by  a  dense  population,  deeply  involved  in  moral 
degradation  and  woe,  no  adequate  provision  being  made  for 
their  evangelization  ! 

In  concluding  the  first  part  of  these  humble  memorials  of 
heathen  darkness,  Gospel  triumphs,  and  Christian  labours,  as 
well  as  of  the  joys  and  sorrows  of  missionary  life,  I  would  respect- 
fully, but  earnestly,  plead  with  the  reader  for  his  sympatJiy,  his 
prai/ers,  and  his  efforts,  on  behalf  of  the  long  oppressed  and 
neglected  Negro  race.  "Pity  poor  Africa."  Eemember  that 
in  this  land  of  darkness,  superstition,  and  war,  and  slavery, 
and  human  sacrifices  still  prevail  to  a  fearful  extent.  O  come 
forward  "  to  the  help  of  the  Lord,  to  the  help  of  the  Lord  against 
the  mighty  1"  I  ask  for  your  sympathy  and  for  your  prayers  on 
behalf,  al^o,  of  those  dear  men  of  God  Avho  have  left  their  native 
country,  and  gone  forth  as  Christian  Missionaries  to  this  land 
of  sickness  and  death.  Many  have  fallen  a  sacrifice  to  the 
climate  at  an  early  period  of  their  career,  and  have  found  a 
grave  in  African  soil ;  but  never  did  one  give  expression  to  feel- 
ings of  regret  that  he  had  embarked  in  the  blessed  work.     And 


226  PART  I. — WESTERN  AFRICA. 

how  soon  have  the  ranks  been  filled  up  !  The  true  missionary 
spirit  still  animates  the  hearts  of  our  rising  Ministry.  Western  , 
Africa  will  never  lack  an  adequate  supply  of  European  Mission- 
aries to  co-operate  with  the  Native  Teachers  in  carrying  on  the 
work  of  God.  And  if  men  are  found  willing  to  go  forth  to 
such  a  country,  with  their  lives  in  their  hands,  literally  leaving 
all  for  the  sake  of  Christ  and  His  Gospel,  is  it  too  much  to  ask 
of  those  who  remain  at  home,  surrounded  with  all  the  comforts 
of  civilized  life,  to  follow  the  Missionaries  with  their  prayers, 
and  to  support  them  in  the  work  in  which  they  are  engaged,  as 
the  Lord  has  prospered  them  ? 

It  is  freely  admitted  that  in  the  prosecution  of  Missions  like 
those  to  which  the  attention  of  the  reader  is  now  invited,  many 
difficulties  have  to  be  encountered ;  but  the  more  numerous 
the  difficulties,  the  greater  is  the  need  of  united  prayer  and 
effort,  that  they  may  all  be  overcome  in  the  strength  of  the 
Lord.  Li  the  opinion  of  some,  the  pestilential  climate  of 
Western  Africa  may  appear  an  insurmountable  barrier  to  ulti- 
mate success?  But  why  should  this  be  a  stumbling-block  in 
our  way,  so  long  as  the  great  Head  of  the  Church  continues  to 
raise  up,  call,  qualify,  and  incline  the  hearts  of  apostolic  men 
to  consecrate  themselves  to  this  hazardous  department  of  Chris- 
tian labour.  The  fact  that  so  many  have  fallen  in  this  holy 
enterprise  should  be  an  incentive  to  greater  zeal  and  diligence 
in  the  prosecution  of  the  work.  As  Abraham  by  faith  took 
possession  of  the  land  of  Canaan,  when  he  buried  his  dead 
within  the  boundaries  of  the  promised  inheritance,  so  should  we, 
as  professing  Christians,  look  upon  Western  Africa  as  oiirSy 
because  of  the  number  of  zealous  Missionaries  and  their  devoted 
wives  who  have  been  buried  in  that  country,  after  nobly 
endeavouring  to  reclaim  it  for  Christ  their  Saviour.  The 
Christian  church  should  be  animated  by  the  spirit  of  that 
devoted  Missionary  who,  before  he  himself  fell  a  sacrifice  to  the 
climate,  expressed  a  wish  for  no  other  motto  for  his  tomb-stone 
than  the  touching  words :  "  Though  a  thousand  fall,  let 
ITOT  Africa  be  given  up."  Let  the  same  spirit  of  self- 
sacrificing  zeal  animate  the  Christian  church,  and  "  Ethiopia 
will  soon  stretch  out  her  hands  unto  God." 


PART  II. 

THE  WEST  INDIES, 


CHAPTER  I. 

DESCEIPTIOX  OF  THE  ISLANDS. 

Situation — ^Discovery — Aborigines — General  Features — Soil — Scenery — 
Moral  Condition — Jamaica — Antigua — Barbuda — Dominica — Mont- 
serrat — Nevis — St.  Kitt's — Anguilla — St,  Bart's — St.  Eustatius — St. 
Martin's — Saba — The  Virgin  Islands — Danish.  Islands — The  Bahamas 
— Hayti — Honduras — Spanish  Islands — French  Islands — St.  Lucia. 

The  second  Mission  of  the  writer  was  to  the  West  Indies,— 
a  part  of  the  world  that  will  ever  be  regarded  with  feelings  of 
pecnliar  interest  by  the  Christian  philanthropist ;  and  of  which 
n  few  notices  may  be  given,  preparatory  to  a  more  particular 
account  of  the  colonies  where  he  was  appointed  to  labour ;  and 
of  the  plans  adopted  to  promote  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the 
sable  sons  of  Ham,  in  these  the  lands  of  their  exile. 

The  West  India  Islands  are  situated  in  that  part  of  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  which  forms  itself  into  a  deep  and  extensive 
bay,  between  the  vast  continents  of  North  and  South  America. 
They  were  discovered,  at  different  times,  by  the  enterprising 
Columbus,  towards  the  close  of  the  fifteenth  century ;  and  were 
found  to  be  inhabited  by  savage  tribes  of  natives,  whom 
the  Spaniards  called  "Indians"  or  "Caribs;"  evidently  of 
different  races  or  descent.     These  unfortunate  Aborigines  were 

Q  3 


228  PAET    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

too  independent,  or  too  indolent,  to  submit  to  the  slaveiy  whicli 
their  cruel  conquerors  would  have  imposed  upon  them.  Thej' 
were,  moreover,  unfitted  by  nature,  and  their  previous  habits 
of  life,  to  endure  that  severe  toil  and  drudgery  to  which  they 
were  required  to  submit.  By  degrees,  they  were  almost  entirely 
extirpated ;  rapidly  passing  away  under  the  cruel  treatment  of 
their  oppressors.  Their  places  were  soon  supplied  by  Negro 
slaves,  who  had  been  torn  from  their  native  homes  in  Africa, 
and  doomed  to  a  life  of  perpetual  toil  and  bondage,  as  already 
stated  in  the  fornier  part  of  this  work. 

Ey  the  fortunes  of  war  and  other  changes,  the  islands  form- 
ng  the  Archipelago  of  the  West  have  fallen  into  the  hands  of 
various  European  powers.  At  the  present  time,  the  English 
colonies  are, — Jamaica,  Antigua,  Dominica,  Montserrat,  Nevis, 
St.  Christopher's,  Barbuda,  Anguilla,  St.  Lucia,  the  Virgin 
Islands,  the  Bahamas,  Honduras,  Demerara,  Barbadoes,  St. 
Vincent's,  Grenada,  Tobago,  and  Trinidad.  The  Erench  islands 
are, — Martinique,  Guadaloupe,  Marie  Galante,  and  St.  Martin's 
in  part.  The  Spanish  colonies  are, — Cuba  and  Porto  Rico. 
The  Dutch  have,— St.  Eustatius,  Saba,  and  St.  Martin's  in 
part.  There  are  belonging  to  the  Danes, — St.  Thomas,  St. 
John's,  and  St.  Croix.  And  the  Swedes  claim  St.  Bartholomew's ; 
while  Ilayti  has  become  a  republic  of  free  blacks,  who  cast  off 
the  Spanish  yoke  in  1801. 

These  islands  and  continental  settlements,  which  usually  pass 
under  the  general  name  of  the  West  Indies,  possess  several 
features  in  common  with  each  other,  whilst,  at  the  same  time, 
each  place  has  a  history  of  its  own,  and  something  peculiar  to 
itself.  We  shall  now  proceed  to  give  a  few  particulars  of 
information  concerning  them,  so  far  as  our  limited  space  will 
permit. 

Situated  as  they  are  chiefly  within  the  tropics,  all  the  West 
India  islands  possess  a  climate  at  all  times  free  from  severe 
cold,  frost  and  snow  being  entirely  unknown  ;  but  the  heat  is 
sometimes  intense.  This,  however,  is  frequently  moderated  by 
a  refreshing  sea-breeze ;  which,  in  most  of  the  islands,  blows  at 
certain  periods,  with  great  regularity.  Those  localities  which 
are  low  and  swampy  are  necessarily  unhealthy  as  in  all  other 


CHAP.  I. DESCRIPTION    OF   THE    ISLANDS.  229 

tropical  countries ;  as  the  rapid  process  of  evaporation  generates 
the  marsh  miasma,  which  is  a  fruitful  source  of  fever.  But  iu 
regions  more  dry  and  elevated,  although  the  heat  may  be  great> 
the  climate  is  far  from  unfriendly  to  general  health.  It  must  be 
admitted,  however,  that  a  lengthened  residence,  without  a  change, 
usually  proves  debilitating  to  the  European  constitutiou. 

The  seasons,  although  not  so  distinctly  marked  as  in  Western 
Africa,  are  divided  into  dry  and  rainy,  rather  than  into  summer 
and  winter ;  and  the  agricultural  operations  of  the  planters 
are  arranged  accordingly,  the  rains  being  favourable  for  the 
cultivation  of  the  ground,  and  the  dry  weatlier  for  the  gathering 
in  of  the  crops.  "With  a  little  variation  as  to  different  localities, 
the  former  generally  continues  from  September  to  March,  and 
the  latter  from  April  to  August.  To  these  must  be  added  the 
"  hurricane  season,"  which  embraces  the  months  of  August 
and  September,  when  a  large  portion  of  the  West  Indies  is 
liable  to  violent  tempests,  which  sometimes  prove  very  destruc- 
tive to  life  and  property. 

The  soil  varies  much  in  its  character  in  different  places,  but 
,it  is  generally  fertile,  and  yields  a  good  retm-n,  when  properly 
cultivated.  The  principal  articles  of  produce  are  sugar,  cotton, 
arrow-root,  ginger,  pepper,  and  other  spices ;  whilst  almost  all 
the  islands  produce  fruit  of  various  kinds,  and  vegetables  in 
great  abundance. 

The  scenery  is  everywhere  interesting,  and  frequently  splendid 
beyond  desciiption.  A  well-arranged  and  highly-cultivated 
estate,  with  its  numerous  Negro  cottages  and  provision  grounds^ 
is  a  pleasing  object  to  look  upon;  especially  when  ornamented 
Tvith  the  majestic  palmetto,  cocoa-nut,  and  other  tropical  trees, 
with  the  curling  waves  of  the  bright  blue  sea  on  the  one  hand, 
and  the  uplands,  in  the  wildness  of  nature,  on  the  other.  The 
mountains  are  frequently  clothed  to  their  very  summits  with 
the  richest  vegetation  ;  w^iilst  the  foliage  of  the  trees  which 
cover  the  hills  and  valleys  not  yet  brought  under  cultivation, 
assumes  every  variety  of  tint  which  can  possibly  be  imagined, 
-according  to  the  varying  seasons  of  the  year  in  which  they  are 
seen,  and  is  remarkably  refreshing  for  the  eye  to  rest  upon. 

But  whilst  we  regard  with  feelings  of  pleasure  the  lovely 


S30  PART    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

aspects  of  external  nature,  which  are  found  in  the  West  Inclie& 
generally,  we  must  not  forget  that  there  is  another  phase  of 
the  subject  which  is  calculated  to  give  pain  and  sorrow  to  every 
sensitive  mind.  I  mean  the  moral  condition  of  the  inhabitants, 
and  the  lamentable  spiritual  destitution  which  everywhere  pre- 
vailed, previous  to  the  arrival  of  the  Missionaries.  Not  only 
the  poor  enslaved  Negroes,  but  all  classes  of  the  community, 
from  the  highest  to  the  lowest,  were  deeply  depraved,  and 
notoriously  immoral ;  and  scenes  of  misery  and  degradation 
were  the  result,  which  cannot  fail  to  attract  our  notice, — as  well 
as  the  means  employed  to  eifect  a  remedy, — whilst  the  colonies 
pass  under  review,  which  have  been  the  principal  scenes  of 
evangelical  effort. 

Jamaica  is  the  largest  and  most  important  of  the  British 
West  India  colonies ;  and,  as  such,  it  demands  our  first  notice. 
The  island  is  of  an  irregular  oval  form,  and  is  said  to  be  170 
miles  long  and  70  broad,  the  centre  being  situated  in  latitude 
18**  12'  north  and  longitude  77°  45'  west.  The  general  aspect 
of  the  country  is  rugged  and  mountainous  ;  but  it  abounds  with 
fertile  valleys,  and  almost  every  part  is  covered  with  perpetual 
verdure.  It  is,  moreover,  watered  with  numerous  streams, 
which  flow  in  various  directions ;  which  circumstance  seems  to 
justify  the  name  given  to  it  by  the  aborigines,  which  signifies, 
in  their  language,  the  "  Land  of  Springs." 

The  island  of  Jamaica  was  discovered  by  Columbus,  in  the 
course  of  his  third  voyage  from  Spain,  on  the  3rd  of  May, 
1494  ;  but  no  settlement  was  made  upon  it  at  that  time ;  the 
Spaniards  leaving  the  country  after  a  stay  of  ten  days,  being 
disappointed  at  finding  no  gold.  It  was  only  during  his  fourth 
and  last  voyage,  that  Columbus  and  his  party  formed  a  perma- 
nent establishment  in  this  island.  Being  overtaken  by  a  violent 
storm,  they  were  driven  towards  these  shores,  and,  with  great 
difficulty,  effected  a  landing  at  a  small  cove  on  the  north  side  of 
the  island,  on  the  24th  of  June,  1503.  Having  thus  escaped 
from  shipwreck,  after  the  loss  of  four  vessels  belonging  to  the 
squadron,  the  adventurers  were  delighted  to  find  the  natives 
disposed  to  be  kind  and  hospitable.  These  simple  children  of  the 
forest  exerted  themselves  to  the  utmost  to  supply  the  pale-faced. 


CHAP.    I. — DESCEIPTION    OF   THE    ISLATs'DS.  231 

strangers  with  food,  and  every  necessary  comfort ;  but  tliey 
were  repaid  by  the  basest  ingratitude,  oppression,  and  wrong. 
The  island  remained  in  the  possession  of  Spain  for  a  hundred 
and  fifty-six  years  ;  during  which  period  scenes  of  horror,  cruelty, 
and  bloodshed  occurred  which  find  no  parallel  i'l  the  pages  of 
history,  unless  it  be  in  the  records  of  the  enormities  which  were 
perpetrated  by  these  same  heartless  Spaniards  in  St.  Domingo 
and  other  places  which  they  had  conquered.  Speaking  of  these 
early  colonists,  Abbe  Eaynal  says  :  "  These  barbarous  wretches 
never  sheathed  their  swords  while  there  was  one  native  left  to 
preserve  the  memory  of  a  numerous,  good-natured,  plain,  and 
hospitable  people."  Thus  perished  the  entire  Eative  population 
of  Jamaica,  in  the  short  space  of  fifty  years,  although  their 
number  was  estimated  at  eighty  thousand ;  and  their  places 
were  henceforth  supplied  by  Negro  slaves  from  the  coast  of 
Africa. 

In  the  year  1655,  the  English,  under  Penn  and  Venables, 
having  failed  in  their  attempt  to  take  St.  Domingo,  made  an 
attack  on  Jamaica.  They  landed  at  Passage  Port,  in  Port 
Eoyal  harbour ;  and,  the  Spaniards  flying  before  them  in  every 
direction,  they  made  an  easy  conquest  of  the  island.  Since  that 
period  it  has  continued  an  appendage  to  the  British  crown, 
every  attempt  to  take  it  having  been  successfully  resisted.  All 
who  have  written  upon  the  subject  are  unanimous  in  their  testi- 
mony as  to  the  fearfully  demoralized  state  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Jamaica  at  an  early  period  of  its  history.  And,  according  to 
the  general  rule,  that  "  sin  brings  sorrow,"  this  colony  has  had 
many  and  severe  trials  to  pass  through  at  dilferent  periods  of 
its  history.  In  1693,  the  town  of  Port  Eoyal  was  swallowed 
up  by  an  earthquake,  when  three  thousand  of  the  inhabitants 
were  hurried  out  of   time  into  eternity,*     About  four  years 

*  On  the  occasion  of  the  earthquake  which  destroyed  Port  Royal,  a  very 
remarkable  interposition  of  Divine  Providence  occui-red  on  behalf  of  a  good 
man,  who,  hke  Lot  of  old,  was  saved  from  the  general  destruction ;  the 
particulars  of  which  are  recorded  on  a  marble  monument,  erected  to  his 
memory,  as  follows  : — "  Here  hes  the  body  of  Lewis  Galdy,  Esq.,  who 
departed  this  life  at  Port  Royal,  December  the  22nd,  1736,  aged  eighty- 
years.  He  was  born  at  Montpellier,  in  France  ;  but  left  that  country  for 
his  rehgion,and  came  to  settle  in  this  island,  where  he  was  swallowed  up  iu 


232  PAET   II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

afterwards,  when  Port  Eoyal  had  been  rebuilt,  it  was  almost 
entirely  destroyed  by  tire ;  as  was  also  the  town  of  Montego 
Bay  at  a  subsequent  period.  Then  came  a  fatal  epidemie,  wdiich 
swept  away  a  large  number  of  the  inhabitants  ;  and  this  visita- 
tion was  followed  by  a  succession  of  hurricanes,  which  involved 
a  fearful  sacrifice  of  life  and  property. 

But  the  greatest  evils  which  have  afflicted  Jamaica,  in 
common  with  the  other  West  India  Islands,  are  those  connected 
with  slavery.  The  language  of  Montgomery  Martin  on  this 
subject  is  strong,  but  nevertheless  true.  "  Slavery,"  says  he, 
*'both  Indian  and  Negro,  that  blighting  upas,  has  been  the 
curse  of  the  West  Indies ;  it  has  accompanied  the  white 
colonist,  whether  Spaniard,  Prench,  or  Briton,  in  his  progress, 
tainting,  like  a  plague,  every  incipient  association,  and  blasting 
the  efforts  of  man,  however  originally  well  disposed,  by  its 
demon-like  influence  over  the  natural  virtues  with  which  his 
Creator  had  endowed  him,  leaving  all  cold,  and  dark,  and  deso- 
late within."  To  this  startling  testimony  of  the  celebrated 
colonial  historian,  as  to  the  demoralizing  influence  of  slavery  on 
all  concerned  in  the  abominable  system,  we  need  only  here  add 
that  about  thirty  insurrections  of  the  slave  population  occurred 
in  Jamaica,  after  it  became  a  British  colony,  before  the  evil  was 
entirely  done  away.  One  of  these  outbreaks  involved  the 
lives  of  seven  hundred  slaves^  and  an  expenditure  of  £161,596, 
independently  of  the  value  of  the  property  destroyed,  wdiicli 
was  estimated  at  £1,154,583.* 

the  great  earthquake  iu  the  year  1692  ;  and,  ]3y  the  providence  of  God,  was, 
by  another  shock,  thrown  into  the  sea,  and  mii-aculously  saved  by  swimming, 
until  a  boat  took  him  up.  He  lived  many  years  afterwards  in  gi-eat  reputa- 
tion, beloved  by  all  who  knew  him,  and  was  much  lamented  at  his  death." 

*  In  the  month  of  October,  1865,  several  years  after  the  advent  of  free- 
dom, another  insurrection  occm'red  at  Morant  Bay,  on  the  eastern  side  of 
Jamaica,  attended  by  the  most  appalling  circumstances.  "When  the  intelli- 
gence of  this  deplorable  event  reached  England,  one  or  two  of  the  leading 
journals,  well  known  for  their  antipathy  to  the  black  man,  jumped  to  the 
most  rash  and  hasty  conclusions  condemnatory  of  emancipation,  and  of  the 
whole  Negro  race.  But  when  more  ample  information  was  received  as  to 
the  history,  character,  and  causes  of  the  outbreak,  it  plainly  appeared  that 
from  misgovernment,  ])arty  legislation,  and  other  abuses,  traceable,  not  to 
emancipation,   but   to   the  spirit  of    slavery  which  still  lingers  in  many 


CHAP.    I. — DESCEIPTION    OF    THE    ISLANDS.  233 

Tlie  island  of  Jamaica  is  divided  into  three  counties, — 
Middlesex,  Surrej^  and  Cornwall ;  and  these  are  again  divided 
into  parishes.  A  church  was  built  in  almost  eveiy  parish  at  an 
early  period  ;  but  we  are  informed,  on  good  authority,  that  when 
there  was  a  Priest  for  each  parish,  which  was  not  always  the 
■case,  the  church  was  seldom  opened,  except  on  occasions  of 
marriages  or  funerals.  Sunday  was  the  day  devoted  to  the 
public  market  and  parties  of  pleasure,  the  Clergymen  themselves 
being,  in  many  instances,  notoriously  immoral.  It  is  doubted 
whether,  previous  to  1789,  the  Sabbath  ever  dawned  on  Jamaica 
which  witnessed  five  hundred  persons  assembled  in  all  the  places 
of  worship  put  together,  out  of  a  population  of  nearly  four 
hundred  thousand.  The  idea  of  attempting  to  impart  religious 
instruction  to  the  slaves  scarcely  seems  to  have  entered  into  the 
mind  of  any  one. 

Such  was  the  state  of  society  when  the  pious  and  devoted  Dr. 
Coke  landed  in  Jamaica,  on  the  19th  of  January,  1789,  having 
previously  succeeded  in  establishing  Missions  in  several  of  the 
smaller  islands  in  the  West  Indies.  He  remained  but  a  short 
period  on  this  occasion  ;  but  during  his  stay  he  preached  four 
times  in  Kingston,  to  attentive  congregations,  though  not  with- 

quartci's,  and  fi-om  the  consequent  sufferings  of  the  people  from  the  extreme 
poverty,  destitution,  and  oppression  to  which  they  were  exposed,  a  spirit  of 
dissatisfaction  had  for  a  long  time  existed.  It  appeared  further  that  the 
Negroes  who  engaged  in  this  revolt,  and  were  guilty  of  such  atrocities,  were 
comparatively  few  in  number,  the  mass  of  the  people  refusing  to  join  them ; 
and  that  the  insurgents  were  first  fired  upon  by  the  parties  assembled  in  the 
Court-house  before  they  commenced  their  murderous  work.  "Whilst  all 
Christian  people  must  condemn,  in  the  most  unqualified  manner,  the  pro- 
ceedings of  the  insurgents  at  Morant  Bay,  much  sympathy  will  be  felt  for 
the  innocent,  who  are  made  so  largely  to  suffer  with  the  guilty ;  and  the 
British  press  has,  to  its  honour,  with  but  few  exceptions,  pronounced  the 
severest  censure  on  the  proceedings  of  the  parties  who  took  the  field  pro-, 
fessedly  to  quell  the  insurrection,  but  who,  although  they  met  with  no  armed 
opposition,  seized  upon  and  put  to  death  about  two  thousand  black  and 
coloured  persons  with  the  most  wanton  cruelty,  in  some  instances  without 
even  the  form  of  a  drum-head  court-martial ;  among  whom  was  Mr.  G.  W. 
Gordon,  a  respectable  gentleman  of  colour,  and  a  member  of  the  House  of 
Assembly,  who  was  dragged  from  Kingston  to  Morant  Bay,  that  he  might 
be  hung  amid  the  ruins  of  the  Court-house ! 


234  PART    II. THE    WEST    INDIES. 

out  opposition  and  disturbance  at  one  or  two  of  the  services. 
The  impression  made  upon  the  Doctor's  mind  by  his  first  visit 
appears  to  have  been  favourable  ;  for  immediately  on  his  return 
to  England  he  sent  out  the  Eev.  William  Hammett,  as  the  first 
Missionary  to  Jamaica,  who  arrived  on  the  island  in  the  month 
of  August.  This  zealous  servant  of  Christ  was  successful  in 
his  first  efforts  to  evangelize  the  people  ;  and  the  congregations 
were  so  large  that  he  was  encouraged  to  purchase  an  old 
building,  and  fit  it  up  as  a  place  of  worship.  In  the  beginning 
of  1791,  the  Eev.  Mr.  Brazier  arrived,  to  assist  Mr.  Hammett; 
and  in  a  few  days  afterwards  Dr.  Coke  paid  a  second  visit, 
bringing  along  with  him  the  Eev.  Mr.  Werrill,  another  Missionary. 
After  remaining  a  few  days  at  Montego  Bay,  where  they  landed, 
and  where  the  Doctor  preached  several  times,  they  proceeded  to 
Kingston,  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles. 
This  journey  was  performed  on  horseback,  and  the  Missionaries 
had  thus  a  favourable  opportunity  of  seeing  the  interior  of  the 
island,  with  which  they  appear  to  have  been  much  delighted. 
After  Dr.  Coke  had  remained  a  short  time  in  the  colony,  preach- 
ing in  various  places,  he  embarked  for  America,  taking  Mr. 
Hammett  with  him,  to  recruit  his  impaired  health  in  a  colder 
climate.  In  the  month  of  August,  Mr.  Brazier  followed  them, 
having  also  suti'ered  from  the  excessive  heat.  On  the  15th  of 
November,  Mr.  WerriU  died,  happy  in  God,  the  first  of  a  long 
list  of  faithful  Missionaries  who  have  fallen  a  sacrifice  to  the 
climate  of  Jamaica ;  and  thus  the  Society  which  had  been 
collected  was  left  without  a  Pastor. 

In  the  month  of  May,  1792,  the  hearts  of  the  people  were 
gladdened  by  the  arrival  of  the  Eev.  AVilliam  Fish;  whose 
zealous  labours  were  successful  in  re-organizing  the  Mission. 
About  nine  months  afterwards,  Dr.  Coke  paid  his  third  and 
4ast  visit  to  Jamaica ;  and  after  spending  there  a  few  days,  during 
which  he  was  "  in  labours  more  abundant,"  preaching,  travel- 
ling, and  endeavouring  to  strengthen  the  hands  of  the  Mission- 
ary, he  embarked  for  England,  and  Mr.  Fish  was  left  to  pursue 
his  useful  labours  alone.  In  after  years,  the  Jamaica  Mission 
was  strengthened  by  the  arrival  of  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Alexander, 
Campbell,  Fowler,  Bradnack,  Wiggans,  Johnston,  Shipman,  and 


CHAP.    I. — DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    ISLANDS.  235 

a  host  of  other  brave  and  zealous  Ministers  of  Christ,  who  suc- 
cessively laboured  and  sufiered  in  this  interesting  island,  but 
into  the  history  of  whose  labours  the  limits  of  this  brief  sketch 
forbid  us  to  enter.  Suffice  it  to  say  that,  amid  opposition  and 
persecution  such  as  has  seldom  been  witnessed  in  modern  times, 
they  nobly  persevered.  Eor  several  years  in  succession,  some 
of  the  chapels  were  closed  by  persecuting  enactments,  called 
"  laws  ;  "  others  were  completely  demolished  by  ruthless  mobs, 
whilst  the  inoffensive  Missionaries  were  imprisoned  or  insulted 
in  a  manner  too  shocking  to  relate.  Still  they  pressed  onwards  ; 
and  their  faithful  labours  were  crowned  with  abundant  success. 
The  good  work  spread  from  Kingston  to  Port  Royal,  Montego 
Bay,  Spanish  Town,  Morant  Bay,  Grateful  Hill,  Stony  Hill, 
I'almouth,  St.  Ann's  Bay,  and  far  away  into  the  interior  dis- 
tricts. In  most  of  the  towns  and  rural  hamlets,  substantial 
chapels  have  been  erected,  which  are  crowded  with  attentive 
hearers  of  the  word  of  God  ;  and  a  change  has  passed  over  the 
face  of  society  which  is  pleasing  to  contemplate.  Notwith- 
standing the  various  trials  and  adverse  circumstances  with  which 
Jamaica  has  had  to  contend,  in  common  with  several  other  \^'est 
India  colonies,  it  is  a  delightful  fact  that  there  are  now,  in  con- 
nexion with  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  in  the  island, 
seventy-ttoo  chapels,  tioenty-jiv>e  other  p'sachlnrj-places,  and 
seventy-two  Missionaries.  TJpicards  of  sixteen  thousand  converts 
are  united  in  church  fellowship,  arid  five  thousand  children  are 
attending  the  Mission  schools  ;  whilst  thirty -eight  thousand  of  the 
inliahitants  are  reported  as  members  of  the  respective  congrega- 
tions. 

Antigua  now  claims  our  attention ;  not  that  it  ranks  next 
to  Jamaica  in  size  and  importance  as  a  British  colony,  but 
because  it  was  honoured  to  be  the  first  Wesleyan  Mission  sta- 
tion in  the  West  Indies.  This  island  was  discovered  by 
Columbus  in  the  course  of  his  second  voyage,  and  received  its 
present  name  in  honour  of  St.  Mary  of  Antigua,  to  whom  a 
church  in  Seville  was  dedicated.  It  is  situated  in  latitude  17** 
6'  north,  and  longitude  61°  50'  west,  twenty-five  miles  north- 
east from  Montserrat,  and  forty  miles  north  of  Guadaloupe,  and 
is  said  to  be  fifty  miles  in  circumference ;  with  a  population  of 


236  PART   II. — THE   WEST    INDIES. 

tbirty-eight  thousand.  For  many  years  after  its  first  discovery, 
Antigua  seems  to  have  been  neglected  by  the  Spaniards,  in 
consequence  of  its  being  entirely  destitute  of  springs  and  rivers. 
The  land  being  generally  low,  it  cannot  boast  of  scenery  equal 
to  that  of  some  of  the  other  islands.  It  was  not  till  the  year 
1629,  that  a  regular  settlement  was  formed,  by  a  small  number 
of  French  planters,  from  St.  Christopher's.  On  their  arrival, 
they  found  the  island  totally  destitute  of  inhabitants ;  the 
native  Caribs  having  deserted  it  from  the  scarcity  of  water. 
This  serious  disadvantage  caused  the  French  also  to  abandon 
the  place  soon  afterwards  ;  but,  in  1632,  it  was  taken  possession 
of  by  a  party  of  Englishmen,  who  collected  the  rain-water  in 
tanks,  and,  to  a  considerable  extent,  overcame  the  difficulties 
with  which  they  had  at  first  to  contend.  In  the  wars  of  1665, 
the  colony  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  French,  but  was  restored 
again  to  the  English  in  1668  ;  since  which  time  it  has  continued 
to  be  an  appendage  to  the  British  crown. 

Although  the  scarcity  of  water  in  Antigua  has  to  a  consider- 
able extent  been  overcome  by  artificial  means,  the  island  is  still 
subject,  at  times,  to  long  continued  droughts ;  a  circumstance 
which  has  occasionally  retarded  its  agricultural  and  commercial 
prosperity.  The  climate  is  said  to  be  tolerably  healthy,  how- 
ever, and  it  is  possessed  of  excellent  harbours.  The  principal 
article  of  culture  was  originally  cotton ;  but,  for  many  years 
past,  this  has  given  place  to  sugar,  the  general  staple  of  the 
British  West  Indies.  Provisions,  and  fruit  of  various  kinds, 
arc  raised  in  abundance  ;  and,  on  the  whole,  this  is  a  desirable 
place  of  residence  for  the  tropics.  The  city  of  St.  John's  is  the 
capital  of  the  colony,  and  the  place  of  residence  for  the  Governor 
General  of  all  the  leev/ard  islands.  The  towns  of  Parham, 
Willoughby  Bay,  English  Harbour,  and  Falmouth,  are  of  secon- 
dary importance,  and  some  of  them  the  mere  remains  of  what 
.they  once  were. 

Antigua  has  always  had  the  reputation  of  being  in  advance 
of  the  other  West  Indian  colonies,  in  civilization,  enlighten- 
ment, and  humanity.  At  an  early  period,  the  local  Legislature 
enacted  a  law  for  the  trial  of  criminals  by  a  jury  of  slaves,  as 
well  as  free  men ;  and  when  the  great  emancipation  came,  this 


CHAP.    I. — DESCIIIPTIOK    OF    THE    ISLANDS.  237 

island  nobly  dispensed  with  the  apprenticeship,  and  freed  the 
slaves  at  once. 

The  Moravians  had  labonred  successfully  for  some  time  in 
Antigua,  when  the  Wesleyan  Methodists  were  called  by  a 
remarkable  providence  to  take  their  share  of  the  important 
w^ork  of  evangelizing  the  poor  Negroes.  As  early  as  1760,  the 
Speaker  of  the  House  of  Assembly,  the  Hon.  Nathaniel  Gilbert, 
began  to  hold  meetings  for  the  religious  instruction  of  the 
slaves  on  his  own  and  neighbouring  estates  ;  having  himself 
been  brought  to  a  knowledge  of  the  truth,  under  the  preaching 
of  the  Eev.  John  Wesley,  during  a  visit  which  he  paid  to 
England  some  time  before.  Considerable  progress  had  been 
made  in  this  good  work  by  Mr.  Gilbert,  aided  by  his  pious 
partner  and  a  like-minded  brother,  when,  about  eighteen  years 
afterwards,  Mr.  John  Eaxter,  a  zealous  Local  Preacher,  arrived 
from  England,  on  the  2nd  of  April,  1778,  to  pursue  his  occupa- 
tion as  shipwright,  in  His  Majesty's  dock-yard  at  English  Har- 
bour. This  excellent  man  immediately  united  with  the  Gilberts 
in  spreading  abroad  the  knowledge  of  a  Saviour's  love  among 
the  poor  Negroes  ;  travelling  to  distant  plantations  to  instruct 
the  people  after  the  labours  of  the  day  were  over,  and  address- 
ing large  assemblies  on  the  Sabbath  day.  The  result  was  a 
glorious  ingathering  of  precious  souls  to  the  fold  of  Christ.  As 
the  work  extended,  application  was  made  to  Mr.  Wesley  to 
send  out  a  regular  Missionary ;  but  the  claims  of  other  parts  of 
the  wide  field  caused  a  long  delay.  At  length,  however,  the 
necessity  was  met,  in  a  manner  which  no  one  had  anticipated. 

In  the  year  1786,  Dr.  Coke  and  three  Missionaries,  Messrs. 
Hammett,  Warrener,  and  Clarke,  left  England  for  Nova  Scotia ; 
but  from  stress  of  weather  were  driven  to  Antigua.  They 
landed  at  St.  John's  on  Christmas  Day ;  and  whilst  walking  up 
the  street,  they  met  Mr.  Baxter,  going  to  preach  to  a  large  con- 
gregation. The  venerable  Doctor  took  the  pulpit,  and  his 
pious  heart  was  stirred  within  him  whilst  looking  upon  and 
addressing  one  thousand  listening  Negroes,  as  he  now  saw 
more  clearly  than  ever  the  hand  of  God,  in  the  mysterious 
manner  in  which  he  had  been  brought  to  their  shores.  Yield- 
ing to  this  remarkable  providence,  Dr.  Coke  left  Mr.  Warrener 


23 S  PART   II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

to  assist  Mr.  Baxter  in  Antigua,  and  started  off  with  tlic  other- 
Missionaries  to  seek  to  evangelize  the  neighbouring  lands. 
Other  zealous  labourers  followed  in  succession ;  and  such  was 
the  rapid  progress  of  the  work,  that  when  Dr.  Coke  called  at 
the  island  two  years  afterwards,  he  was  delighted  with  the 
prosperous  state  of  the  Mission.  Still  more  blessed  results 
were  realized  afterwards  ;  and  we  have  now,  in  connexion  with 
the  Wesleyan  Mission  in  Antigua,  ten  chapels,four  Missionaries, 
nearly  two  thousand  church  memhers,  and  one  thousand  children 
in  the  Mission  schools ;  whilst  upicards  of  five  thousand  persons 
attend  the  public  services.^' 

Barbuda  is  a  small  English  island,  situated  about  thirty-five 
miles  to  the  north  of  Antigua,  wdth  a  population  of  about  two 
thousand.  The  land  is  generally  flat,  and  the  soil  is  better 
adapted  for  grazing  than  for  cultivation.  The  chief  trade  of  the 
colonists  consists  of  cattle,  pigs,  poultry,  horses,  and  mules, 
which  are  raised  in  the  country,  and  shipped  for  sale  in  the 
neighbouring  islands. 

The  inhabitants  of  Barbuda  are  largely  indebted  to  the 
Wesleyan  Mission  on  the  neighbouring  island  for  the  religious 
knowledge  and  privileges  which  they  possess,  although  the 
settlement  has  only  been  occasionally  visited  by  the  Mission- 
aries from  Antigua;  the  sparseness  of  the  population,  and 
other  difficulties,  having  hitherto  prevented  the  establishment 
of  a  separate  station ;  a  measure  which  has  been  rendered  less 
necessary  by  the  appointment  of  a  Minister  of  another  denomi- 
nation to  reside  there  of  late  years.  In  1813,  the  Rev.  S.  P. 
Woo] ley  preached  frequently  to  the  people,  baptized  ninety-three 
children  and  thirty-four  adults  in  one  day,  and  renewed  the 
quarterly  tickets  of  fifty- six  church  members. 

*  In  the  year  1826,  the  Antigua  Mission  suffered  a  severe  loss,  by  the 
wreck  of  the  "Maria"  mail-boat;  on  which  occasion  five  Missionaries, 
TWO  WIVES,  and  pour  children,  with  tioo  servants,  met  with  a  watery 
grave.  The  sufferers  Avere  Mr.  and  Mrs.  White,  with  their  three  children ; 
Mr,  and  Mrs.  Truscott,  and  one  child ;  Mr.  Jones,  Mr.  Hillier,  and  Mr. 
Oke,  all  of  the  Antigua  station;  which  was,  by  this  mysterious  Providence, 
left  without  a  Missionary.  Of  the  whole  Mission  party,  the  only  survivor 
was  Mrs.  Jones ;  who  afterwards  wrote,  for  publication,  a  most  affecting 
narrative  of  the  sad  disaster. 


CHAP.    I. — DESCRIPTION    OF    THE    ISLANDS.  239 

Dominica  was  the  first  land  discovered  by  Columbus  on  his 
second  voyage  to  the  New  World ;  and,  having  been  descried 
on  Sunday,  the  3rd  of  November,  1493,  it  was  called  Dominica, 
which  is  in  Latin  equivalent  to  our  English  "  Lord's  day."  It  is 
about  twenty-nine  miles  in  length,  and  sixteen  in  breadth,  and 
is  situated  nearly  midway  between  Guadaloupe  and  Martinique, 
in  latitude  15"  33'  north,  and  longitude  61°  23'  west,  with  a 
population  of  about  twenty-two  thousand.  The  general  aspect 
of  this  island  is  mountainous  and  rugged,  the  interior  being 
covered  with  forests  of  excellent  timber ;  but  it  possesses  many 
fertile  valleys,  and  is  watered  by  upwards  of  thirty  rivers,  which 
flow  in  various  directions.  In  former  years  coffee  and  cotton, 
for  which  the  soil  is  said  to  be  well  adapted,  were  cultivated  to 
a  considerable  extent ;  but  at  present  sugar  is  the  staple  com- 
modity for  exportation,  abundance  of  vegetables  and  fruits  being 
grown  for  home  consumption. 

When  first  settled  by  the  Erench  about  the  beginning  of  the 
seventeenth  century,  Dominica  was  inhabited  by  a  race  of  Caribs 
similar  to  those  which  were  found  on  the  neighbouring  islands ; 
but  they  were  soon  made  to  give  place  to  the  more  hardy  Negro. 
In  1759  the  island  fell  by  conquest  under  the  dominion  of  Great 
Britain.  In  1778  it  was  retaken  by  the  French ;  but  it  was 
restored  to  the  English  in  1783,  since  which  period  it  has 
remained  a  British  possession,  though  still  possessing  much  of 
the  Erench  element  in  the  composition  of  its  population. 

On  the  evening  of  Eriday,  the  fifth  of  January,  1787,  Dr. 
Coke,  with  Messrs.  Baxter,  Hammett,  and  Clarke,  arrived  at 
Dominica  ;  where  they  were  kindly  received  and  entertained  by  a 
Mr.  Burn,  to  whom  they  were  introduced.  The  way  not  appearing 
open,  as  yet,  for  the  commencement  of  a  Mission,  they  only 
remained  two  or  three  days ;  and,  after  the  Doctor  had  preached 
at  the  house  of  Mrs.  Webley,  a  lady  of  colour,  and  conversed 
with  a  few  Negroes  and  two  pious  soldiers  in  the  garrison,  the 
missionary  party  proceeded  in  their  schooner  to  St.  Vincent's. 
Nearly  two  years  afterwards,  on  the  19th  of  December,  1788, 
Dr.  Coke  paid  a  second  visit  to  this  island,  accompanied  by 
Messrs.  Baxter  and  M'Cornock,  the  latter  of  whom  was  left  at 
Eoseau,  the  capital,  to  commence  a  Mission,  the  arrangement 


240  PAET   TI. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

having  been  sanctioned  by  lus  Excellencj^  the  Governor.  Mr. 
M'Cornock  had  only  laboured  for  a  few  months  with  a  pleasing 
measure  of  success,  when  he  was  called  away  by  death,  being 
the  first  Wesleyan  Missionary  who  fell  in  the  West  Indies  ;  and 
the  infant  church  was  left  destitute  of  a  Pastor  for  several  years. 
On  the  3rd  of  January,  1793,  Dr.  Coke  called  once  more  at 
Dominica ;  and,  being  much  affected  with  the  destitute  con- 
dition of  the  people,  in  the  course  of  the  following  year  he  sent 
Mr.  Cook  to  collect  the  scattered  flock,  and  recommence  the 
Mission.  Mr.  Cook  was  succeeded  by  Messrs.  Durableton, 
Taylor,  Bocock,  Shipley,  and  others ;  several  of  whom  fell  a 
sacrifice  to  the  climate,  which  is  generally  admitted  to  be  one 
of  the  most  unhealthy  in  the  West  Indies,  especially  on  the 
leeward  coast.  But,  notwithstanding  every  difficulty,  the  good 
work  has  prospered  from  year  to  year ;  and  the  Mission  now 
numbers  six  chajjels,  three  other  'preaching -places,  six  hundred 
and  tioenty-six  church  memhers,  five  hundred  and  ten  scholars  in 
the  Mission  schools,  and  fifteen  hundred  2^ersons  in  attendance  at 
the  resjpective  places  of  worship. 

MoNTSERRAT  is  the  next  island  which  passes  under  review. 
It  is  situated  in  latitude  16°  47'  north,  and  longitude  62o  13' 
west,  about  twenty-two  miles  south-west  of  Antigua,  and  the 
same  distance  north-west  of  Guadaloupe,  and  south-east  of 
Nevis.  It  is  only  twelve  miles  long  and  seven  broad,  and  is 
said  to  have  received  its  present  name  from  its  rugged  and 
mountainous  aspect.  It  was  first  settled  by  Sir  Thomas  Warner 
and  his  party  under  the  protection  of  the  British  Government 
in  1633.  About  1664  it  was  taken  by  the  French;  but  it  was- 
restored  to  the  English  at  the  peace  of  Breda,  and  has  continued 
ever  since  under  our  flag.  Montserrat  is  called  by  Montgomery 
Martin  "a  romantic  little  isle,"  and  it  can  certainly  boast  of 
splendid  scenery.  Coleridge  expresses  himself  as  delighted 
with  his  ride  from  Plymouth,  the  capital,  to  the  Souffriere,  as 
some  of  the  views  reminded  him  of  his  native  Westmoreland  lake 
district.  The  staple  article  of  produce  is  sugar ;  but  of  late 
years  a  considerable  trade  has  been  carried  on  by  the  exporta- 
tion of  firewood,  chiefly  to  Barbadoes.  The  population  was 
once  estimated  at  fifteen  thousand,  but  it  has  dwindled  down  to 


CHAP.   I. — DESCRIPTION   OF   THE    ISLANDS.  241 

little  more  than  half  that  number,  chiefly  by  emigration  to 
Trinidad  and  other  more  prosperous  islands,  where  a  better 
prospect  of  success  presented  itself  to  the  inhabitants. 

The  early  settlers  in  Montserrat  were  chiefly  Irish,  and  of  the 
Eoman  Catholic  Church  ;  and  some  of  their  descendants  have 
still  an  establishment  in  the  island.  In  consequence  of  the 
spirit  of  persecution  which  prevailed,  Dr.  Coke  was  unable  to 
commence  a  Mission  here  when  he  visited  the  neighbouring 
colonies;  but  he  makes  mention  in  his  Journal,  in  1793,  of  a 
small  Class  of  twelve  persons  who  were  met  regularly  once  a 
week  by  a  pious  coloured  person.  In  1808  Mr.  Hodgson 
visited  Montserrat  on  his  way  to  Tortola,  and  communicated 
the  result  of  his  observations  to  Dr.  Coke ;  but  it  was  not  till 
the  year  1820  that  a  Mission  was  regularly  organized  in  this 
island.  The  first  Missionary  was  Mr.  Maddocks,  who  was 
called  away  by  death  in  the  midst  of  his  useful  labours  a  few 
months  after  his  arrival.  He  was  succeeded  by  Mr.  Janion, 
who  completed  and  opened  a  new  chapel  commenced  by  his 
lamented  predecessor,  and  the  good  work  continued  to  prosper. 
These  pioneers  were  followed  in  after  years  by  a  noble  race  of 
faithful  Missionaries  in  succession ;  and  the  fruit  of  their  labours 
continue  to  this  day,  although  many  changes  have  taken  place. 
We  now  number  in  this  little  island /owr  chapels,  one  Missionary , 
three  hundred  and  seventy-one  members,  three  hundred  and 
thirty-four  scholars,  and  nine  hundred  attendants  on  public 
worship. 

Nevis  is  another  beautiful  little  island,  which  appears  on  the 
approach  of  the  voyager  like  a  conical  mountain  rising  out  of 
the  sea.  It  is  only  eight  miles  long  and  five  broad  ;  ^but  being 
well  watered  and  fertile,  it  was  formerly  very  productive  in 
sugar,  ginger,  and  the  usual  fruits  and  provisions  of  the  tropics. 
It  could  once  boast  of  a  population  of  thirty  thousand  ;  but,  by 
reverse  of  circumstances,  emigration,  and  the  desolating  effects 
of  cholera  in  1853,  it  has  been  reduced  to  less  than  one  third 
that  number.  Nevis  is  separated  from  St.  Kitt's  at  its  south- 
eastern end  by  a  narrow  channel  three  miles  broad,  in  latitude 
17°  11'  north,  and  longitude  63°  3'  west.  It  was  originally 
settled  by  a  party  of  Englishmen  under  Sir  Thomas  Warner. 


242  PART    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

Dr.  Coke  paid  his  first  visit  to  this  lovely  isle  on  the  19tli  of 
January,  1787  ;  and  in  the  following  year  the  work  of  the 
Mission  was  regularly  organized  by  Mr.  Hammett,  who  came 
over  from  St,  Kitt's  to  preach  to  the  Negroes  at  the  invitation 
of  Mr.  Brazier.  This  gentleman,  together  with  the  Messrs. 
Nesbitt,  supported  the  cause  most  nobly ;  and,  from  the  begin- 
ning, the  work  was  ftivoured  with  marked  prosjoerity.  At  an 
early  period  we  find  the  names  of  Messrs.  Kingston,  Brownell, 
Taylor,  Turner,  Isham,  Woolley,  Morgan,  Hurst,  Mortier,  and 
other  worthies  connected  with  this  station  ;  and  we  now  number 
three  chapels,  two  Missionaries,  fourteen  hundred  church  viemberSy 
eleven  hundred  and  sixty-seven  scholars,  and  Jive  thousand  attend- 
ants on  public  worship. 

St.  Kitt's  (or  St.  Christopher's)  was  discovered  by  Columbus 
in  1493,  and  was  honoured  with  his  own  Christian  name.  It 
was  called  by  its  original  possessors  Liamuiga,  or  the  "  Fertile 
Island ; "  and  it  is  not  unworthy  of  the  name,  as  it  continues  to 
produce  large  crops  of  sugar,  when  other  islands  are  compara- 
tively worn  out.  St.  Kitt's  is  situated  in  latitude  17°  18'  north, 
and  longitude  62<*  40'  west,  and  is  only  eight  miles  distant  from 
St.  Eustatius  on  the  one  hand,  and  three  from  Nevis  on  the 
other.  The  island  is  of  a  peculiar  shape,  somewhat  resembling- 
Italy,  having  the  form  of  an  outstretched  leg.  In  its  natural 
features  it  is  equally  remarkable  for  rugged  boldness  and  soft 
beauty ;  a  chain  of  hills  running  from  north  to  south,  and  rising, 
at  Mount  Misery,  to  an  elevation  of  three  thousand  seven  hun- 
dred feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea ;  whilst  the  lower  slopes, 
down  to  the  water  edge,  are  highly  cultivated.  The  population 
may  be  estimated  at  twenty-three  thousand.  In  1623  Sir 
Thomas  Warner  settled  on  the  island  with  his  son  and  fourteen 
others  from  London.  They  found  three  Frenchmen  living  in 
peace  with  the  natives.  Being  favourably  impressed  with  the 
place,  Warner  went  to  England  for  recruits,  and,  on  his  return 
in  1625,  he  found  in  the  harbour  M.  D'Enarabur,  who  had  just 
arrived  from  France  with  a  party  of  settlers.  The  English  and 
the  French  agreed  to  divide  the  island  between  them ;  on  seeing 
which,  the  Caribs  took  alarm,  and  made  war  upon  the  European 
invaders ;  but  they  were  defeated  with  a  loss  of  two  thousand 


CHAP.   I. — DESCKIPTION    OF   THE    ISLANDS.  243 

in  killed  and  wounded,  whilst  one  hundred  of  the  pale-faced 
strangers  fell  by  the  poisoned  arrows  of  the  natives.  In  after 
years  jealousies,  bickerings,  and  strife  occurred  between  the  French 
and  English,  till  1702,  when  the  island  was  captured  by  the 
British ;  and,  it  being  confirmed  to  us  by  the  Treaty  of  Utrecht  in 
1713,  most  of  the  French  left  for  St.  Domingo,  and  the  English 
remained  in  peaceable  possession. 

On  Thursday,  the  18th  of  January,  1787,  Dr.  Coke,  witt 
Messrs.  Baxter,  Hammett,  and  Clarke,  whilst  on  their  interesting 
tour  of  evangelization,  landed  at  St.  Kitt's ;  and  they  met  with 
such  a  cordial  welcome,  that  they  commenced  preaching  at  once ; 
and,  on  the  departure  of  the  rest,  Mr.  Hammett  was  left  to 
organize  and  carry  on  the  Mission.  His  labours  were  abundantly 
successful,  and,  on  re-visiting  the  island  in  1789,  Dr.  Coke 
was  delighted  to  find  seven  hundred  members  in  society.  The 
zealous  Doctor  again  called  at  St.  Kitt's  in  1793,  and  was 
cheered  as  before  with  delightful  evidences  of  progress.  Mr. 
Hammett  was  succeeded  by  Messrs.  Harper,  Andrews,  Truscott, 
Brownell,  Jenkins,  and  others ;  and  this  became  one  of  the 
most  prosperous  Missions  belonging  to  the  Wesleyan  Mission- 
ary Society  in  the  West  Indies.  It  now  numbers  nine  chapels^ 
four  Missionaries,  two  thousand  eight  hundred  and  ninety-nine 
church  member s,  seventeen  hundred  scholars,  and  ten  thousand 
attendants  on  public  worship. 

Anguilla,  or  Snake  Island,  so  called  from  its  tortuous  or 
eel-like  form,  is  situated  in  latitude  18**  north,  and  longitude 
64°  west,  about  fifty  miles  to  the  north-west  of  St.  Kitt's,  and 
separated  from  St.  Martin's  by  a  narrow  channel.  It  is  thirty 
miles  in  length,  and  scarcely  more  than  seven  in  breadth,  in  its 
widest  parts.  The  island  is  generally  flat,  without  mountains 
or  rivers,  and  differs  in  its  general  aspect  from  most  of  the 
other  West  India  islands,  reminding  one  rather  of  some  districts 
in  Kent  or  Devonshire.  The  soil  is  deep,  but  chalky,  and 
appears  not  so  well  adapted  for  tropical  produce;  although 
sugar,  cotton,  and  provisions  are  grown  in  the  island.  The 
chief  staple  for  exportation  is  salt,  which  is  manufactured,  and 
shipped  to  America,  in  considerable  quantities.  Anguilla  was 
discovered  and  colonized  by  the  English  in  1650,  and  has  ever 

E  2 


244  PART   II. — THE    "WEST    INDIES. 

since  remained  a  British  possession,  having  successfully  resisted* 
every  attack  made  upon  it  in  times  of  war. 

The  Gospel  was  first  preached  in  this  island  by  a  converted 
native,  who  was  himself  the  fruit  of  missionary  labour,  and 
was  ultimately  called  to  the  Christian  Ministry.  When  the 
Mission  had  been  regularly  organized,  a  resident  Missionary 
occupied  the  station  ;  but  of  late  years,  from  tlie  sraallness  of 
the  population,  and  the  pressing  demands  of  other  places,  the 
Minister  has  been  withdrawn,  and  the  island  is  visited  at  stated 
periods  from  St.  Martin's.  Anguilla  has  two  chapels,  tico  hun- 
dred and  sixty  church  members,  fifty -five  scholai's,  and  seven  hun- 
dred and  fifty  attendants  on  public  loorship. 

St.  Bart's  (or  St.  Bartholomew's)  is  the  only  island  belong- 
ing to  Sweden  in  the  West  Indies.  It  was  first  held  by  some 
English  adventurers,  and  afterwards  by  the  French ;  but  in 
1785  it  was  ceded  to  Sweden.  It  is  situated  in  latitude  17°  46' 
north,  and  longitude  63°  40'  west,  about  twenty-five  miles 
north  of  St.  Kitt's,  and  is  possessed  of  a  good  harbour ;  but 
the  soil  is  poor,  and  the  scenery  uninviting.  It  is  a  small 
island,  being  only  about  forty  miles  in  circumference.  The 
chief  exports  are  said  to  be  drugs  and  lignum  vita. 

The  Wesleyan  Mission  in  this  island  was  commenced  by  the 
Eev.  William  Turton  in  the  year  1796.  On  his  arrival,  he  was 
received  with  gratitude  by  all  classes  of  the  community.  The 
Governor  granted  him  the  use  of  the  church ;  but,  as  this  was 
not  available  for  evening  meetings,  he  soon  built  a  chapel,  and 
the  blessing  of  God  rested  upon  his  labours.  On  the  removal 
of  Mr.  Turton,  other  labourers  occupied  the  field,  and  the  good 
work  continued  to  advance.  Among  the  early  Missionaries 
appointed  to  this  station,  we  notice  the  honoured  names  of 
Messrs.  Dobson,  Whitworth,  White,  Gilgrass,  Ffrench,  and 
Felvus.  St.  Bart's  has  now  one  cliapel,  one  Missionary,  one 
hundred  and  itcenty-eight  church  members,  sixty  scholars,  and 
three  hundred  attendants  on  public  worship. 

St.  Ettstatjus  belongs  to  the  Dutch;  and  although  it  only 
occupies  but  a  humble  place  among  the  West  India  colonies, 
it  is,  nevertheless,  a  pleasant  little  island.  It  is  situated  in 
latitude  17°  33'  north,  and  longitude   63"  0'  west,  and  at  a 


CHAP.    I. — DESCEIPTION    OF   THE    ISLANDS.  245 

distance  of  only  eight  miles  south-east  from  St.  Kitt's.  Like 
Nevis,  the  island  consists  of  one  conical  mountain,  with  a 
rugged,  rocky  summit,  the  gently  sloping  sides  of  which  are 
adorned  with  plantations  of  sugar-cane  and  yam  grounds. 

Dr.  Coke  earnestly  desired  to  establish  a  Mission  in  St. 
Eustatius  in  1792;  but  every  attempt  was  met  with  the  most 
determined  resistance  on  the  part  of  Governor  Eennolds,  and 
the  other  civil  authorities.  It  was  not  till  the  year  1803  that 
the  preaching  of  the  Missionaries  was  permitted,  and  the  Mission 
regularly  formed,  although  several  persons  had  received  good, 
and  were  holding  meetings  secretly,  long  before.  The  late 
Kev.  ;M.  C.  Dixon  was  the  first  Wesley  an  Minister  appointed 
to  labour  in  this  island ;  and,  from  the  very  first,  the  blessing 
of  God  attended  his  labours.  The  Dutch,  having  no  religious 
establishment  of  their  own,  encouraged  the  Wesleyan  Mission, 
and  of  late  years  have  supported  it  with  a  pecuniary  annual 
grant.  The  island  has  one  chapel,  one  Missionary,  two  hundred 
and  ticenty-six  church  members,  one  hundred  and  eighty  scholars, 
and  Jive  hundred  and  fifty  attending  public  worship. 

St.  Martin's  belongs  to  the  Dutch  and  French  conjointly ; 
but  the  Protestant  portion  of  the  community  of  both  colonies 
is  dependent  upon  the  ministrations  of  the  Wesleyan  Mission- 
aries for  religious  instruction.  It  may  be  stated  to  their  credit, 
that  both  the  public  functionaries,  and  the  people  generally, 
attend  the  public  worship  of  God  with  remarkable  regularity ; 
and  of  late  years  both  the  Emperor  of  the  Erench  and  the  King 
of  Holland  have  contributed  liberally  towards  the  support  of 
the  W'esleyan  Ministry  in  their  respective  possessions.  The 
Mission  in  St.  Martin's  was  commenced  iu  1819,  by  the  Rev. 
Jonathan  Eayner,  who  was  called  away  by  death,  soon  after  the 
work  was  begun  ;  but  he  was  succeeded  by  others,  whose  labours 
have  been  crowned  with  suc;;ess.  We  now  number  in  both 
departments  of  the  Avork  in  this  island,  three  chapels,  four  other 
preaching -places,  two  Missionaries,  three  hundred  and  fifty -Jive 
'Church  members,  two  hundred  and  ttcenty-three  scholars,  and  oiie 
thousand  attendants  on  public  worship. 

Saba  is  also  a  Dutch  island,  and  an  out-station  was  formed 
.there,  in  connexion  with  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society,  at 


346  PART   II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

an  early  period ;  but,  as  the  population  was  small,  it  has  never 
been  favoured  with  a  resident  Missionary,  but  is  visited  occa- 
sionally from  other  islands. 

The  Virgin  Islands. — This  was  the  name  given  to  a 
cluster  of  lofty  islets  and  rocks,  about  fifty  in  number,  dis- 
covered by  Columbus  in  1493,  in  honour  of  the  Romish  legend 
of  the  eleven  thousand  virgins.  They  belong  chiefly  to  Great 
Britain,  and  those  that  are  inhabited  are  named  respectively 
Tortola,  Virgin  Gorda,  or  Spanish  Town,  Port  Van  Dykes, 
Anegada,  Peter's  Island,  and  a  few  others.  They  are  situated 
to  the  north-west  of  the  Leeward  Islands,  and  Tortola,  the  largest 
and  the  seat  of  government,  is  in  latitude  18°  20'  north,  and 
longitude  64°  39'  west.  These  islands  are  celebrated  for  the 
excellency  and  great  variety  of  the  fish  which  is  caught  on  their 
shores ;  and  in  some  of  them  mines  of  copper,  black-lead, 
arsenic,  and  even  gold  and  silver,  were  formerly  worked  to 
advantage. 

The  population,  both  bond  and  free,  amounting  to  about 
eleven  thousand,  was  said  to  be  in  a  fearfully  demoralized  state 
when  Dr.  Coke  first  landed  in  Tortola  in  1789  ;  but  a  wonder- 
ful change  was  speedily  eifected  by  the  regenerating  influence 
of  the  Gospel.  Mr.  Hammett  was  the  first  Missionary  appointed 
to  labour  in  these  islands ;  and  he  soon  succeeded  in  gathering 
a  goodly  number  of  the  people  into  church  fellowship.  He- 
was  succeeded  by  Messrs.  Owen,  M'Kean,  Turner,  Murdock, 
Brownell,  and  others  ;  and  the  results  have  been  very  encourag- 
ing. Tortola  is  the  head  of  the  Circuit,  where  the  Ministers- 
reside,  and  from  which  they  visit  the  respective  keys  and  islets 
at  stated  periods.  There  are  now  in  the  whole  Circuit  seven 
cJiapels,  two  Missmiaries,  seventeen  hundred  and  twenty-eight 
church  members,  six  hundred  and  forty -five  scholars,  and  three 
thousand  attendants  07i  public  worship. 

The  islands  of  St.  Thomas,  St.  John,  and  St.  Croix  belong  tO' 
the  Danes  ;  but  the  people  generally  speak  English ;  and,  from 
the  personal  observations  made  by  the  writer  on  the  spot 
several  years  ago,  he  is  of  opinion  that  if  the  way  were  open  ta 
establish  a  Wesley  an  Mission  among  them,  the  result  would  be 
highly  satisfactory.     Hitherto    the  Danish    Government    have- 


CHAP.    I. — DESCRIPTION    OP   THE    ISLANDS.  24? 

been  extremely  jealous  of  tlie  Wesleyan  Missionaries,  and  have 
strictly  prohibited  them  from  preaching  in  any  of  their  colonies, 
fearing  the  irifluence  which  their  labours  might  have  on  their 
cherished  institution  of  slavery  ;  but  surely  the  time  is  not  far 
distant  when  slavery,  and  religious  intolerance,  and  every 
hinderance  to  the  progress  of  the  Gospel  shall  be  entirely  and 
for  ever  swept  aw^y. 

The  BAHAJtAS. — We  have  now  to  call  the  attention  of  the 
reader  to  a  singular  group  of  islands  called  the  Bahamas.  They 
extend  in  a  crescent-like  form  from  the  Matanilla  reef,  in  latitude 
37°  50'  north,  and  longitude  79»  5'  west,  to  Turk's  Island,  in 
latitude  2P  23'  north,  and  longitude  71°  5'  west,  a  distance  of 
about  six  hundred  miles.  New  Providence  is  the  most  impor- 
tant island  of  the  group,  and  the  seat  of  government  for  the 
whole  ;  but  it  is  the  one  named  St.  Salvador  that  is  celebrated 
as  the  land  first  seen  by  Columbus,  on  the  12ih  of  October, 
1492,  when  on  his  first  voyage  of  discovery  to  the  New  World. 
The  Bahamas  were  then  densely  peopled  by  the  Indian  race, 
who  were  soon  shipped  off  to  work  the  mines  of  Peru  and 
Mexico,  when  the  Spaniards  began  their  seaich  for  gold.  In 
1629  New  Providence  was  settled  by  the  English,  the  native 
tribes  having  become  entirely  extinct.  About  twelve  years 
afterwards,  the  Spaniards  drove  them  from  the  island,  and  mur- 
dered the  Governor,  besides  committing  many  other  acts  of 
cruelty.  In  1666,  the  English  again  colonized  the  Bahamas; 
but,  in  1703,  the  French  and  Spaniards  again  expelled  them, 
and  destroyed  their  plantations.  After  many  other  changes, 
and  fearful  depredations  by  pirates,  the  Bahamas  were  finally 
ceded  to  the  British  by  treaty  in  1783,  since  which  period  they 
have  remained  in  our  possession. 

Erom  the  more  favourable  character  of  the  climate  and  other 
circumstances,  a  larger  proportion  of  the  inhabitants  are  Avhites 
in  these  islands,  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  West  Indies ; 
but,  according  to  undoubted  testimony,  all  classes  were  in  a 
most  appalling  state  of  spiritual  destitution  at  the  begin- 
ning of  the  present  century,  when  the  Wesleyan  Mission  was 
commenced  for  their  benefit.  The  Eev.  W.  Turton  had  the 
honour  of  laying  the  foundation  of  this  good  work,  being  after- 


248  PART   II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

wards  assisted  in  his  evangelical  labours  in  New  Providence 
and  the  other  islands  by  Messrs.  Eutledge,  Dowson,  Ward, 
Moor,  and  others.  The  work  was  ultimately  organized  into 
regular  Wesleyan  Circuits,  which  unitedly  formed  a  J  )istrict,  of 
which  Mr.  Turton  was  for  many  years  the  honoured  Chairman. 
There  are  now  prosperous  stations  at  New  Providence,  Eleu- 
thera,  Harbour  Island,  Abaco,  Turk's  Island,  and  some  others  of 
less  importance ;  and  the  Bahama  District  numbers  seven  Cir- 
cuits, thirty  chapels,  nine  Missionaries,  three  thousand  six  hun- 
dred and  sixty-one  church  members,  two  thousand Jii'S  hundred 
and  sixteen  scholars,  and  nearly  nine  thousand  attendants  on  pub- 
lic worship. 

Hayti  is  the  name  now  generally  given  to  that  portion  of 
the  island  of  St.  Domingo,  or  Hispaniola,  which  is  occupied 
by  a  republic  of  black  and  coloured  people,  who  cast  off  the 
yoke  of  slavery  and  of  the  French  Government,  and  declared 
their  independence,  in  1803.  This  little  commonwealth, 
exhibiting  as  it  does  the  capabilities  of  the  Negro  race,  pos- 
sesses many  points  of  interest  to  the  genuine  philanthropist ; 
but  we  must  confine  our  remarks  to  the  moral  condition  of  the 
people,  and  the  means  which  have  been  employed  for  their 
social  elevation. 

In  the  year  1817,  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  sent  out 
two  Missionaries,  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Brown  and  Catts,  to  com- 
mence a  Mission  in  Hayti.  They  were  kindly  received  both  by 
the  Government  authorities  and  the  people  ;  and  for  some  time 
they  laboured  successfully,  without  any  molestation.  After  a 
while,  however,  when  the  efforts  to  evangelize  the  people  were 
beginning  to  produce  a  powerful  and  extensive  impression,  a 
spirit  of  persecution  was  excited  by  the  Eomish  Priests,  and  in 
the  following  year  the  Missionaries  were  obliged  to  leave  the 
country.  But,  although  left  as  sheep  without  a  shepherd,  the 
converted  natives  would  not  return  to  the  thraldom  of  Popery; 
but  endured  persecution  with  a  patience  and  steadfastness 
worthy  of  the  best  days  of  the  Christian  church.  They  con- 
tinued to  meet  together  as  they  had  opportunity,  and  kept  up  a 
correspondence  with  their  beloved  Pastors,  informing  them  of 
their  proceedings,  and  of  the  course  of  public  events.     The  way 


CHAP.    I. — DESCEIPTION    OF    THE    ISLANDS.  249 

appearirig  once  more  to  open,  the  Mission  was  re-commenced  in 
1835,  by  the  appointment  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Tindall,  assisted  by 
Ml*.  St.  Denis  Bauduy,  a  converted  native.  Mr.  Shan-acks  was 
sent  out  the  following  year ;  but  he  was  soon  called  away  by 
death.  Other  zealous  Missionaries  followed  in  succession ;  and, 
notwithstanding  the  difficulties  arising  from  Popish  supersti- 
tion, and  the  wasting  character  of  the  climate,  the  Mission  has 
succeeded  to  a  considerable  extent.  Hayti  now  forms  a 
separate  little  District,  under  the  able  superintendency  of  the 
Eev.  Mark  B.  Bird,  and  numbers  seven  chapels,  three  other  preach- 
ing places,  tico  Missionaries,  tico  hundred  and  ninety-two  church 
members,  four  himdred  and  sixty  scholars,  and  thirteen  hundred 
attendants  on  public  worship. 

The  southern  portion  of  St.  Domingo  still  remains  under  the 
•dominion  of  Spain,  and,  like  the  parent  state,  it  continues 
involved  in  midnight  Popish  darkness. 

Honduras  is  a  British  settlement  situated  on  the  southern 
part  of  the  continent  of  North  America,  in  the  province  of  Yucatan ; 
but  from  its  climate,  character,  and  position,  it  is  generally  classed 
with  the  West  Indies.  The  town  of  Belize,  the  capital  of  the 
colony,  is  situated  in  latitude  17°  25'  north,  and  longitude 
88"  30' west;  and  the  territory  claimed  as  belonging  to  the 
settlement  embraces  an  area  of  about  62,750  square  miles.  The 
sea  coast  is  generally  flat,  and  the  shore  is  studded  with  lou"- 
and  verdant  isles.  On  advancing  some  distance  into  the 
interior,  the  coimtry  rises  into  lofty  mountains,  covered  with 
dense  forests,  interspersed  with  rivers  and  lagoons,  by  means  of 
which  access  is  gained  to  the  valuable  timber,  especially  logwood 
and  mahogany,  of  which  the  principal  trade  of  the  settlement 
consists. 

The  Wesleyan  Mission  at  Honduras  was  commenced  in  1825. 
The  Eev.  Mr.  Wilkinson  was  the  first  Missionary  sent  out,  and 
he  commenced  his  labours  in  the  town  of  Belize,  and  among  the 
scattered  settlements  of  wood-cutters,  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  in  the  true  missionary  spirit ;  but  in  the  course  of  a  few 
months  after  his  arrival  he  fell  a  sacrifice  to  the  climate.  The 
next  Missionary  was  the  Eev.  Thomas  Johnston,  who  was  also 
^called  to  rest  from  his  labours  before  the  close  of  the  first  year 


250  PART   II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

of  his  appointment.  Other  Missionaries  followed,  who  were 
spared  to  labour  for  a  longer  period ;  and  much  good  was  the 
result,  the  work  having  ultimately  been  extended  to  the  islands 
of  Ruatan,  Corosal,  and  other  places.  There  are  now,  in  the 
Honduras  District,  six  chapels,  ten  other  preaching -places,  four 
Missionaries,  seven  hundred  and  ninety-three  church  members,  six 
hundred  and  twenty-nine  scholars,  and  two  thousand  attendants 
on  public  worship. 

In  the  year  1829,  a  Mission  w^as  attempted  to  the  wandering 
Indians  on  Mosquito  Shore,  in  Honduras  Bay,  by  the  Kev.  Mr. 
Pilley ;  but  the  difficulties  were  so  numerous,  and  the  prospect 
so  discouraging,  that  the  undertaking  was  relinquished. 

The  Spanish  islands  of  Cuba  and  Forto  Rico  are  the  head- 
quarters of  slavery  in  the  West  Indies,  and  are  at  present  closely 
shut  against  any  efforts  which  the  friends  of  freedom  and  of  the 
Negro  race  might  wish  to  make  for  the  benefit  of  the  dark, 
benighted  inhabitants.  Whilst  I  am  thus  writing,  a  ray  of  hope 
seems  to  shine  upon  the  prospect  of  the  future,  hitherto  so 
gloomy,  by  a  decree,  issued  under  the  sign  manual  of  Isabel  II., 
Queen  of  Spain,  bearing  date  October  27th,  1865,  showing  that 
the  abolition  of  slavery  is  now  seriously  contemplated  by  the 
Spanish  Government.  Should  this  intimation  be  effectually  and 
speedily  carried  out,  slavery  throughout  the  world  will  receive  its 
death  blow,  and  the  way  be  more  open  to  confer  still  greater 
blessings  on  the  African  race. 

The  French  islands  of  Martinique,  Ouadaloupe,  and  Marie 
Galante,  although  nominally  free,  are  not  much  more  open  to 
evangelistic  efforts  for  the  moral  improvement  of  the  people 
than  the  colonies  just  named.  Popery  reigns,  and  rules  with  an 
iron  hand,  and  her  votaries  are  enslaved  to  ignorance  and 
sensual  pleasure. 

St.  Lucia,  situated  between  Martinique  and  St.  Vincent's,  is  an 
English  island,  having  formerly  belonged  to  the  French ;  and 
being  still  so  far  French  in  the  habits  and  ideas  of  the  people, 
and  generally  under  Eomish  influence,  very  little  has  hitherto 
been  done  for  their  religious  instruction.  Wesleyan  Missionaries 
have  at  different  times  visited  St.  Lucia ;  but,  from  the  diffi- 
culties already  alluded  to,  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  want  of 


CHAP.   II.— THE    COLONY    OF  DEMERARA.  251 

means  for  the  extension  of  the  work  on  the  other,  a  permanent 
Mission  has  not  yet  been  established  in  the  island. 

Having  thus  given  a  brief  but  general  view  of  the  situation, 
character,  and  population  of  a  considerable  number  of  West  India 
colonies,  as  well  as  of  the  commencement  of  missionary  operations 
in  several  of  them,  we  propose  to  present  the  reader  with  more 
minute  details  concerning  those  which  remain  to  be  noticed. 
They  are  comprised  in  the  St.  Vincent  and  Demerara  Districts, 
in  connexion  with  which  the  writer  spent  fourteen  happy  years, 
in  direct  efforts  to  improve  aiid  elevate  the  people.  The  islands 
which  have  passed  under  review  were  only  visited  incidentally, 
or  seen  at  a  distance,  in  the  course  of  the  author's  missionary 
travels ;  but  those  to  which  we  have  now  to  direct  the  reader's 
attention  were  the  places  of  his  residence,  and  the  scenes  of  his 
personal  labours. 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE  COLONY  OF  DEilERARA. 

Appointment  to  Demerara — Second  Embarkation — Detention  in  the  Isle 
of  "Wight — Voyage — Arrival — First  Sabbath — Aspect  of  the  Country — 
Soil — Staple  Produce — Climate — Towns  and  Villages — Character  of 
the  Inhabitants — Slavery — Apprenticeship — The  Condemned  Negro — 
Mission  Stations — George  Town — Mahaica — Victoria  and  Golden 
Grove — Essequibo — Berbice — Coolie  Mission — Missionary  Tour. 

We  had  been  only  three  months  in  England,  and  had  scarcely 
recovered  from  the  debilitating  effects  of  our  Mission  to  Western 
Africa,  when  I  and  ray  dear  wife  were  requested  by  the  Wesleyan. 
Missionary  Committee  to  go  out  to  the  West  Indies.  The  Act 
for  the  emancipation  of  all  the  slaves  in  the  British  colonies  had 
just  passed  both  Houses  of  the  Imperial  Parliament,  and  the 
Society  was  making  arrangements  to  send  out  eighteen  additional 
Missionaries,  with  a  view  to  prepare  the  people  more  fully  to 


252  PART   II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

receive  the  precious  boon  of  freedom,  and  also  with  the  hope  o^ 
extending  the  sphere  of  its  operations  in  that  part  of  the  world, 
so  soon  as  every  hindrance  should  be  removed  out  of  the  way. 
It  was  under  these  circumstances  that  I  was  honoured  to  be  one 
of  a  noble  band  of  labourers  designated  for  a  department  of 
the  great  work  which  was  very  dear  to  my  heart. 

Although  we  were  comfortably  settled  in  a  home  Circuit,  to 
which  I  had  been  appointed  at  the  preceding  Conference,  and 
were  surrounded  by  many  kind  friends,  a  call  so  imperative  and 
pressing  did  not  require  much  deliberation.  I  remembered  the 
reply  of  the  African  traveller,  Ledyard,  under  similar  circum- 
stances. When  his  patron  inquired  at  what  time  he  would  be 
ready  to  start  on  his  adventurous  journey,  he  nobly  replied, 
"  To-morrow,  Sir !  "  As  a  Christian  Missionary,  and  in  a 
matter  of  far  greater  importance,  I  felt  that  I  ought  not  to  be 
less  prompt  and  explicit  in  my  decision.  Therefore,  after 
making  it  a  subject  of  mutual  consultation,  prayer,  and  medita- 
tion during  the  day,  being  fully  persuaded  in  our  own  minds  as 
to  our  path  of  duty,  I  wrote  by  return  of  post  to  say  that  "  we 
were  ready,  at  any  time,  to  embark  for  the  West  Indies,  or  any 
other  part  of  the  world  to  which  the  Committee  might  think 
proper  to  appoint  us."  Accordingly  we  were  requested  to  pro- 
ceed to  London,  to  prepare  for  embarkation,  and  to  await  the 
departure  of  a  vessel  for  our  new  scene  of  missionary  life. 

Demerara  was  named  as  the  place  of  our  destination  ;  and  on 
Thursday,  the  16th  of  January,  1834,  we  embarked  for  that 
colony,  in  the  ship  "  Underwood,"  commanded  by  Captain 
Wood,  a  man  of  considerable  nautical  experience,  and  a  fine 
old  gentleman  withal.  We  were  accompanied  on  board  by  the 
late  Eev.  Dr.  Beecham  and  other  friends,  who  soon  left  us,  as 
they  had  to  return  to  London  by  the  steamer  from  Gravesend. 
Then  came  the  pain  of  parting  once  more ;  but  on  this,  as  on 
former  occasions,  our  confidence  was  in  God,  to  whose  kind 
care  we  commended  each  other  in  humble  prayer,  and  we  found 
*'  grace  to  help  in  time  of  need."  In  attempting  to  proceed 
on  our  voyage,  we  met  with  adverse  winds ;  and  after  being 
detained  for  more  than  two  weeks  in  the  Downs,  and  tossing 
about  in  the  English  Channel,  we  were  obliged  to  put  into 


CHAP.   II. — THE    COLONY   OF   DEMERA.IIA.  253 

Portsmouth  harbour  for  shelter.  Thus  were  we  unexpectedly 
favoured  to  hold  sweet  intercourse  with  Christian  friends  once 
more  in  dear  old  England,  before  we  finally  left  our  native  shores. 

We  came  to  anchor  on  the  Mother  Bank  on  Saturday,  the 
1st  of  February,  with  the  beautiful  town  of  Eyde,  in  the  Isle  of 
Wight,  full  in  our  view.  We  went  on  shore  about  ten  o'clock 
A.M.,  and  were  delighted  to  meet  with  a  party  of  six  Mission- 
aries, the  Rev.  Messrs.  Pilcher,  Cheesbrough,  Gordon,  Cam- 
eron, Osborn,  and  Nunn,  who  were  bound  for  Antigua,  by  the 
"  Glaphira,"  which  had  been  detained  there  for  several  weeks. 
These  devoted  servants  of  the  Lord  had  found  comfortable 
homes  among  the  friends  of  Missions  at  Eyde  during  their  long 
detention ;  and,  on  our  arrival,  the  same  hospitality  was  cor- 
dially extended  to  us,  by  the  kind  arrangement  of  the  Bev.  W. 
H.  Sargeant,  the  resident  Wesleyan  Minister,  and  we  enjoyed 
the  comfortable  change  from  tossing  on  the  stormy  sea.  The 
kindness  of  several  Christian  families,  especially  those  of  Messrs. 
Woods,  Wedgwood,  and  Wheeler,  on  this  interesting  occa- 
sion, will  never  be  forgotten,  nor  yet  the  pleasant  and 
profitable  intercourse  with  the  noble  band  of  Missionaries 
already  named.  Little  did  I  then  think  that  four  of  their  num- 
ber would  so  soon  be  called  away  by  death,  and  that  we  should 
never  see  them  again  in  this  world.  But  so  it  was.  In  a  few 
months  afterwards,  Messrs.  Pilcher  and  Cheesbrough  were  the 
only  survivors  ;  and,  through  a  kind  and  gracious  Providence, 
they  yet  live  to  bless  the  church  and  the  world  with  their  use- 
ful labours.  And  still  less  did  I  think,  at  the  time  alluded  to, 
that  we  should  be  spared  to  return  to  our  own  dear  native 
land,  and  have  the  pleasure  of  labouring  in  this  same  beautiful 
Isle  of  Wight,  where  I  now  write  and  commit  to  the  press  these 
humble  records  of  missionary  labours.  How  deep  and  mysteri- 
ous are  the  dispensations  of  Divine  Providence !  On  reviewing 
the  past,  I  feel  constrained  to  acknowledge  with  adoring  grati- 
tude the  watchful  care  and  preserving  goodness  of  our  heavenly 
Father,  so  mercifully  extended  to  us. 

On  Sunday  morning,  the  2nd,  at  seven  o'clock,  I  attended 
an  excellent  prayer-meeting  in  the  Wesleyan  chapel  at  Ryde ; 
and,  immediately  after  breakfast,  we  were  all  summoned  on 


254  PAET    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

board  our  respective  vessels,  the  wind  having  become  fair.  We 
weighed  anchor,  and  proceeded  as  far  as  the  Needles,  when  the 
wind  veered  round,  and  we  were  obliged  to  return.  We  came 
to  anchor  again  on  the  Mother  Bank,  about  six  in  the  evening, 
having  spent  an  uncomfortable  Sabbath  in  thus  vainly  attempt- 
ing to  get  out  to  sea.  The  following  morning  we  went  on 
shore  again ;  and  the  friends  at  Eyde  hailed  our  return  with 
every  expression  of  joy  ;  for,  during  the  stay  of  the  Missionaries 
among  them,  many  delightful  meetings  had  been  held,  the  Holy 
Spirit  was  poured  out,  and  there  was  reason  to  believe  that 
much  good  had  been  done  through  their  instrumentality.  We 
now  resumed  our  meetings,  and  the  chapel  was  crowded  night 
after  night  with  attentive  congregations.  On  Wednesday  even- 
ing I  preached  from  Daniel  vii.  18,  and  we  had  a  most  delight- 
ful prayer-meeting  afterwards,  when  several  penitents  were 
seeking  mercy.  On  Thursday  evening,  we  took  tea  with  the 
Kev.  Messrs.  Phillippo  and  Coultart,  (Baptist  Missionaries  bound 
for  Jamaica,)  and  other  friends,  at  the  residence  of  the  late  Rev. 
T.  S.  Guyer;  and  on  Saturday,  the  8th,  the  wind  having 
become  favourable,  we  took  leave  of  our  dear  friends  at  Hyde, 
and  proceeded  on  our  voyage  to  the  West  Indies. 

We  had  a  fair  wind  for  two  or  three  days,  in  sailing  down 
the  Channel ;  but  we  had  scarcely  taken  our  last  look  at  dear 
old  England,  when  we  encountered  a  heavy  gale,  with  adverse 
winds,  which  continued  nearly  a  week.  Having  crossed  the 
Bay  of  Biscay,  the  wind  w^as  more  favourable ;  and,  as  Captain 
Wood  and  his  officers  were  exceedingly  kind  and  attentive,  we 
had  very  little  either  to  impede  our  progress,  or  to  disturb  our 
happiness,  during  the  remaining  part  of  our  voyage.  Nothing 
remarkable  occurred  until  the  evening  of  Wednesday,  the  19th, 
when  we  were  alarmed  by  the  cry  of  "  Fire  in  the  hold  !  "  We 
hastened  on  deck,  and  saw  the  smoke  ascending  near  the  hatch- 
way ;  but  the  fire  proved  to  be  in  the  long-boat  on  deck,  and 
not  in  the  hold  of  the  ship,  as  at  first  supposed.  The  danger 
to  which  we  were  thus  exposed,  was  occasioned  either  by  some 
muriatic  acid,  or  oil  of  vitriol,  having  burst  the  bottle,  and 
ignited  the  straw  in  which  it  was  packed.  We  succeeded  in 
emptying  the  contents  of  the  long-boat  into  the  sea  before  the 


CHAP.    II. — THE    COLONY   OF    DEMEKARA.  255 

fire  had  spread ;  and  we  were  safe.  We  could  not  but  recognise 
the  hand  of  Providence  in  this  timely  warning,  as  the  con- 
sequences might  have  been  serious,  if  the  fire  had  not  been  dis- 
covered until  a  few  hours  later. 

We  soon  entered  the  tropics,  and  found  ourselves  within  the 
influence  of  the  trade  wind.  Sailing  now  became  very  pleasant, 
although  the  heat  was  somewhat  oppressive.  On  Tuesday 
morning,  the  11th  of  March,  finding  the  water  muddy,  we 
sounded,  and  got  twenty-four  fathoms ;  and  in  the  afternoon 
we  made  the  continent  of  South  America.  Soon  afterwards  a 
pilot  came  on  board,  and  pronounced  us  fifteen  miles  to  the 
windward  of  Berbice.  We  came  to  anchor  for  the  night ;  but 
proceeded  the  next  morning,  with  the  coast  of  British  Guiana 
clearly  in  view.  Although  the  land  was  low,  we  could  occa- 
sionally distinguish  the  buildings  on  the  estates,  and  see  the 
smoke  as  it  ascended  from  the  boiling-houses  connected  with 
the  sugar- works.  About  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we 
entered  the  Deraerara  river,  and  came  to  anchor  before  George 
Town  ;  of  which  we  had  but  an  imperfect  view,  as  it  is  situated 
on  low  ground,  and  lies  embowered  in  the  foliage  of  beautiful 
and  umbrageous  trees. 

We  went  on  shore  immediately ;  and  met  with  a  kind  and 
hearty  reception  from  my  old  friends,  the  Eev.  John  Mortier 
and  his  amiable  wife,  as  well  as  from  the  Eev.  Richard  Horna- 
brook,  and  a  number  of  the  dear  people  connected  with  the 
Mission,  who  had  heard  of  our  arrival,  and  were  assembled  to 
welcome  us  to  their  country.  On  walking  over  to  Kingston, 
the  place  appointed  for  our  residence,  we  found  another  party 
of  pious  natives  waiting  to  congratulate  us  on  our  safe  arrival. 
They  rejoiced  over  us  with  exceeding  joy;  and  assured  us 
that  they  had  been  instant  in  prayer  that  we  might  be  brought 
to  them  in  peace  and  safety.  After  partaking  of  a  comfortable 
cup  of  tea,  which  the  people  had  kindly  provided  for  us,  we  united 
in  prayer  and  praise  at  the  throne  of  the  heavenly  grace,  and 
retired  to  rest  under  a  grateful  sense  of  the  Divine  goodness  in 
safely  conducting  us  across  the  mighty  deep  to  the  scene  of  our 
future  labours. 

The   station  to  which   I  was  appointed  had  been  left  for 


256  PART   II. — THE   WEST    INDIES. 

several  months  without  a  Missionary  ;  my  predecessor,  the  Uev, 
E.  Grieves,  having  died  suddenly  on  the  31st  of  July,  1833. 
This  circumstance  gave  additional  interest  to  our  arrival;  and 
we  were  much  affected  by  the  touching  and  artless  accounts  of 
the  people  ;  how  deeply  they  had  been  afflicted  by  the  removal 
of  their  beloved  Pastor;  and  how  they  prayed  that  another 
Minister  might  be  sent  to  feed  them  with  the  bread  of  life ; 
going  down  to  the  shore,  day  after  day,  to  see  if  there  was 
any  appearance  of  a  vessel  from  England,  with  their  expected 
Missionary.  Their  prayers  being  now  answered,  and  their 
wishes  realized,  a  general  feeling  of  joy  and  gratitude  was 
diffused  among  all  classes  of  the  community. 

The  following  Sabbath  was  a  high  day.  I  opened  my 
commission  by  preaching  in  Kingston  chapel,  morning  and 
evening,  to  large  and  attentive  congregations.  The  appearance 
of  the  people  was  truly  striking;  and  afforded  a  gratifying 
proof  of  the  elevating  influence  of  the  Gospel.  The  congrega- 
tion consisted  almost  entirely  of  slaves,  and  free  persons  of 
colour ;  yet  they  were  neatly  clothed,  devout  in  their  manners, 
and  engaged  in  the  worship  of  God  with  a  fervour  and  decorum 
truly  cheering  to  behold.  My  first  sermon  was  from  Acts 
xvii.  20,  and  appeared  to  produce  a  powerful  impression ;  but 
that  which  affected  me  most  on  this  occasion,  was  a  little 
incident  which  quite  took  me  by  surprise.  As  I  entered  the 
chapel  in  the  morning,  and  on  my  first  public  appearance 
among  them,  the  people,  of  their  own  accord,  sang  the  following 

beautiful 

WELCOME  HYMN. 

"  Welcome  !  welcome !  blessed  servant, 
Messenger  of  Jesu's  grace ! 
0,  how  beautiful  the  feet  of 

Him  that  brings  good  news  of  peace  ! 
Welcome,  herald  !  welcome,  herald  ! 
Priest  of  God, — thy  people's  joy ! 
"  Saviour,  bless  his  message  to  us ; 
Give  us  hearts  to  hear  the  sound 
Of  redemption,  dearly  purchased 
By  Thy  death  and  precious  wound. 
0,  reveal  it !  0,  reveal  it ! 
To  our  poor  and  helpless  souls. 


CHAP.    II. — THE    COLONY   OF    DEMEEARA.  257 

"  Give  reward  of  grace  and  glory 
To  Thy  faithful  labourer  dear : 
Let  the  iucense  of  our  hearts  be 
Offer'd  up  in  faithful  prayer. 

Bless,  O  bless  him  I  bless,  0  bless  him  ! 
Now,  henceforth,  and  evermore  !  " 

This  was  so  unexpected,  and  sung  with  such  good  taste,  and 
with  such  evident  marks  of  sincerity,  that  it  produced  a  thrill- 
ing effect  upon  my  mind ;  and  I  may  say  that  every  circum- 
stance attending  the  commencement  of  my  labours  in  this  place 
inspired  me  with  pleasing  anticipations  of  success.  Before 
entering  into  further  details  of  our  missionary  operations  in 
Demerara,  I  will  endeavour  to  present  the  reader  with  a  brief 
sketch  of  the  general  aspect  of  the  country,  and  the  progress 
of  the  work,  up  to  the  time  of  our  arrival. 

Demerara  is  not  an  island,  but  a  British  colony,  on  the 
continent  of  South  America.  It  is  generally  regarded,  how- 
ever, as  belonging  to  the  West  Indies,  from  the  fact  that  in 
the  character  of  its  inhabitants,  as  well  as  in  its  staple  produce, 
climate,  and  other  circumstances,  it  exhibits  a  striking  analogy 
to  the  islands  which  bear  that  name.  Demerara,  Essequibo, 
and  Berbice,  were  once  governed  as  separate  colonies ;  but  they 
are  now  united  under  the  general  name  of  the  Province  of 
British  Guiana.  The  name  first  mentioned,  however,  is  stiil 
frequently  employed,  by  way  of  accommodation  to  designate 
this  part  of  the  British  empire ;  and  it  is  usually  called  the 
colony  of  Demerara.  It  has  a  line  of  coast  about  two  hundred 
miles  long,  with  a  width  of  country  inland,  not  well  defined. 
The  entire  province  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Atlantie. 
on  the  west  by  Dutch  Guiana,  and  on  the  east  and  south  by 
the  State  of  Venezuela.  It  appears  from  the  maps  that  ther(^ 
is  an  extensive  tract  of  country  claimed  botli  by  Great  Britain 
and  Venezuela:  but  there  is  no  reason  to  apprehend  any 
dispute  about  the  "boundary  line"  for  centuries  to  come, 
as  there  are  still  unoccupied,  beyond  the  present  cultivation  of 
the  colony,  scores  of  miles  of  the  richest  land,  covered  witii 
the  finest  timber,  where  the  sound  of  the  woodman's  axe  has 
never  yet  been  heard. 

s 


258  PART    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  some,  that  Columbus  saw  the  coast  of 
Guiana  in  1458  ;  and  it  has  been  asserted  by  others,  that  it  was 
discovered  by  Vasco  Nunez  in  1504.  It  became  known, 
however,  to  the  English  in  1595,  when  Sir  Walter  Raleigli 
sailed  up  the  mighty  river  Orinoco,  in  his  chimerical  search 
after  the  fabulous  El  Dorado,  a  city  said  to  be  paved  witii 
gold  !  A  company  of  freebooters  formed  the  first  English 
settlement  in  1634,  which  was  captured  by  the  Dutch  in 
1667.  After  various  other  changes,  the  territory  now  included 
in  British  Guiana  was  ceded  to  the  English  by  the  treaty  of 
1814  ;  and  in  our  possession  it  has  since  continued,  although 
n  considerable  number  of  Dutch  residents  are  still  to  be  found 
in  different  parts  of  the  colony. 

The  general  aspect  of  the  country  is  low  and  swampy. 
Indeed,  some  parts  of  tlie  coast  are  below  the  level  of  the  sea ; 
and,  as  the  tide  rises  to  an  unusual  height  in  this  locality,  the 
land  is  only  kept  from  inundation  by  the  construction  of  exten- 
sive dykes  ;  with  sluices  to  let  the  water  off,  when  the  tide  is 
'down.  The  plantations  and  cultivated  grounds  are  laid  out 
:at  right  angles,  with  the  regularity  of  gardens.  Each  property 
lias  generally  a  narrow  sea  or  river  frontage,  for  the  convenience 
of  water  communication ;  and  extends  its  narrow  length  through 
the  entire  width  of  the'  cultivation,  so  as  to  have  the  advantage 
of  the  uncleared  forest  lands  behind.  The  estates  are  divided 
from  each  other  by  large  canals,  and  intersected  by  numerous 
drains,  that  are  used  not  only  to  carry  off  the  superfluous  water, 
but  as  substitutes  for  roads,  by  means  of  which  the  produce  is 
conveyed  in  small  flat-bottomed  boats  called  punts,  from  the 
fields  to  the  works,  and  from  the  works  to  the  ships,  in  the  river 
or  on  the  coast,  as  the  case  may  be.  This  extensive  system  of 
drainage,  rendered  necessary  by  the  low  marshy  character  of  the 
land,  with  the  construction  and  repairs  of  sluices  and  bridges,  are 
heavy  items  of  expense  in  the  working  cf  an  estate  in  Demerara. 
Some  compensation  is  afforded,  however,  by  the  peculiarly  rich 
nature  of  the  soil,  which  is  suited  to  the  growth  of  almost 
every  kind  of  tropical  produce.  The  staple  articles  of  export 
have  been  sugar,  rum,  cotton,  and  coffee ;  but  of  late  years 
the  planters  have  confined  their  attention  chiefly  to  the  cultiva- 


CHAP.   II. — THE    COLONY   OF   DEMEBARA.  259 

tion  of  the  sugar-cane,  and  the  manufacture  of  sugar  and  rum. 
Por  the  growth  of  the  sugar-cane,  the  soil  seems  peculiarly 
adapted.  In  most  of  the  West  India  islands,  it  requires  to  be 
manured,  and  re-planted,  at  least  every  three  years ;  but  here 
it  grows  almost  spontaneously ;  and  may  be  cut  annually, 
for  ten  or  twelve  years,  without  either  re-planting  or 
manuring. 

In  the  rainy  season,  travelling  is  very  difficult.  The  roads 
being  formed  of  soft  earth,  they  are  soon  cut  up,  and  become 
deep  and  miry.  I  remember  passing  over  one  hundred  bridges, 
when  travelling  between  George  Town  and  Mahaica,  in  a  space  of 
only  twenty-five  miles.  When  these  bridges  get  out  of  repair,  the 
difficulty  is  increased.  A  railroad  has,  however,  since  been 
constructed,  to  a  distance  of  thirty  or  forty  miles  along  the 
western  coast,  so  that  travelling  in  that  direction  is  now  much 
more  pleasant  and  expeditious  than  formerly. 

l^'rom  the  observations  already  made,  the  reader  will  not  be 
surprised  to  hear  that  the  climate  of  British  Guiana  is  unfriendly 
to  the  health  of  Europeans.  The  atmosphere  is  generally  more 
humid  than  in  the  islands ;  and  ague  and  fever  are  frequently 
prevalent.  The  swarms  of  mosquitoes,  and  other  stinging 
insects,  which  are  more  numerous  and  troublesome  in  this 
colony  than  in  other  parts  of  the  West  Indies,  are  also  sources 
of  great  annoyance  and  discomfort,  especially  to  strangers. 
Some  Europeans,  however,  get  inured  to  the  climate,  and 
become  attached  to  the  country,  with  all  its  inconveniences; 
and  the  natives  are  as  healthy  as  those  of  most  other  regions 
within  the  tropics. 

George  Town,  the  capital  of  British  Guiana,  is  situated  in 
latitude  6°  36'  north,  and  longitude  52°  15'  west.  It  stands 
on  the  western  side  of  the  entrance  to  the  Demerara  river.  This 
river  has  a  considerable  bar  of  sand  or  mud  at  its  embouchure, 
and  can  be  entered  by  large  vessels  at  high  water  only.  The 
harbour  is  the  mouth  of  the  river  itself;  and  several  wooden 
stelUi/f/s,  or  jetties,  project  from  the  shore,  on  which  passengers 
and  goods  are  landed.  Most  of  the  houses  in  the  town  are 
frame  buildings,  constructed  of  the  native  hard-wood  timber, 
for  which  this  colony  is  so  famous.     They  are  neatly  finished, 

s  2 


360  PAET   II.— THE    WEST    INDIES. 

with  verandahs  in  front  :  and,  when  tastefully  painted,  present 
a  pleasing  appearance. 

There  is  no  stone,  and  not  even  a  pebble,  to  be  found  in  the 
whole  country,  till  we  advance  forty  or  fifty  miles  into  the 
interior.  The  roads  in  the  town  and  its  vicinity  have  been 
formed  of  the  ballast  of  vessels  trading  to  the  colony,  each 
ship  being  required  to  leave  a  certain  quantity.  Of  late  years, 
a  few  o-ood  brick  bnildinsjs  have  been  erected  in  Georo-o 
Town;  and  altogether  the  place  now  wears  a  respectable 
appearance.  The  houses  are  separated  from  each  other  by 
gardens  and  shrubberies  ;  an  arrangement  which  securer 
ventilation,  and  is  very  conducive  to  health  and  comfort  in  this^ 
sultry  and  oppressive  climate. 

Nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  city,  stands  an  elegant  structure, 
called  the  "Guiana  Public  Buildings,"  which  would  be  an 
ornament  to  any  town  in  Europe.  In  its  architectural  design 
and  external  appearance,  it  is  magnificent ;  being  built  of 
brick,  and  stuccoed  with  Eoman  cement,  in  imitation  of  free- 
stone. It  is  so  arranged  as  to  provide  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  all  the  public  offices  of  the  colony  under  the  same 
roof,  which  is  a  great  convenience.  A  market-liouse  has  also 
been  erected,  which  is  very  respectable  in  its  appearance,  as 
well  as  a  great  accommodation  to  the  inhabitants.  The 
churches  and  chapels  are  also  good  buildings,  and  afford 
pleasing  evidence  that  of  late  years  the  people  have  not  been 
unmindful  of  their  spiritual  interests.  A  considerable  part 
of  George  Town  was  reduced  to  ashes,  by  two  fires,  which 
occurred  in  April  and  July,  1864  ;  but  the  burnt  districts 
are  rapidly  rising  from  the  ruins.  The  inhabitants  of  the  capital 
may  be  estimated  at  thirty  thousand  in  number,  whilst  the 
population  of  the  entire  province,  according  to  the  last  census, 
amounts  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand. 

Kew  Amsterdam,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  entrance  of  the 
Berbice  river,  is  the  next  in  importance  to  George  Town  ;  and 
resembles  it  in  many  respecls.  It  is,  however,  much  smaller; 
and  the  inhabitants  may  amount  to  about  four  thousand. 
Since  the  emancipation  of  tlie  slaves,  numerous  villages  have 
sprung  up  in  various  parts  of  the  colony,  some  of  wbich  are  " 


CHAP.    II. THE    COLONY    OF    DEMEllARA.  261 

very  populous.  The  buildings  in  these  are  of  small  dimensions  ; 
and,  ill  general,  not  of  a  very  substantial  character.  The  num- 
ber of  people  necessary  for  the  efficient  working  of  a  plantation 
is  so  considerable,  that  each,  estate  may  be  said  to  have  its  own 
village  or  hamlet ;  and  the  whole  country  is  seen  to  be  dotted 
with  these,  as  the  traveller  passes  along. 

These  towns,  villages,  and  hamlets  are  inhabited  by  different 
races  of  people.  There  are  Europeans,  comprising  English, 
Scotch,  Irish,  Dutch,  and  l^ortuguese ;  Negroes,  originally  from 
Africa;  Coolies  from  the  East  Indies,  and  a  few  Chinese, 
together  with  a  large  and  respectable  class  of  black  and  coloured 
persons,  born  in  the  country,  and  generally  designated  Creoles. 
•On  the  banks  of  the  rivers  and  creeks,  both  within  and  beyond 
the  boundaries  of  the  colony,  there  are  a  few  wandering  tribes  of 
South  American  Indians  ;  some  of  whom  occasionally  visit  the 
towns  and  villages  almost  in  a  state  of  nudit}^ 

None  of  the  West  India  colonies  were  more  degraded  than 
Demcrara  towards  the  close  of  the  last  century,  when  the  friends 
of  ^Missions  began  to  think  of  doing  something  more  for  the 
benefit  of  the  enslaved  Xegro  race.  Almost  all  classes  of  the 
people  appear  to  have  been  indifferent  about  sacred  things,  and 
entirely  given  up  to  the  sinful  pleasures  of  the  world.  The 
Avell-known  Quaker  philanthropist,  Stephen  Grellet,  in  the  days 
of  his  youth,  and  before  he  was  converted,  visited  Demerara, 
.and  the  following  is  his  testimony  as  to  the  moral  condition  of 
the  people  in  1794  : — "  It  is  a  place  of  much  dissipation.  I 
do  not  recollect,  during  the  whole  time  I  was  there,  that  I  saw 
any  thing  in  any  one  that  indicated  a  feeling  of  religious  sensi- 
bility. There  was  no  place  of  worship ;  no  Priest  of  any  kind, 
•except  one  who  had  been  there  a  few  years,  and  was  a  dissolute, 
drunken  man.  It  was  of  the  Lord's  mercy  that  I  and  the 
whole  land  were  not  destroyed,  like  Sodom  and  Gomorrah." 

The  agents  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  had  the  honour 
of  being  the  first  in  this  part  of  the  great  field.  As  early  as 
1808,  the  zealous  and  devoted  Eev.  John  Wray,  whose  praise  is 
in  all  the  churches,  commenced  his  evangelical  labours  at  planta- 
tion Le  Eesouvenir,  under  the  patronage  of  Mr.  Post,  a  pious 
Dutchman,  the  owner  of  the  property.     The  "  Lord  of  the  har- 


362  PART   ir. — THE   WEST    INDIES. 

vest"  greatly  blessed  these  early  efforts  in  the  cause  of  the 
Eedeemer;  and  a  goodly  number  of  poor  slaves  were  made 
spiritually  free  by  the  reception  of  the  Gospel.  On  his  removal 
to  Berbice,  Mr.  Wray  was  succeeded  at  Le  Resouvenir  by  the 
Eev.  John  Smith,  in  1817,  who  laboured  for  some  time  with  a 
cheering  measure  of  success.  In  the  year  1823,  however,  this 
Mission  and  its  honoured  Pastor  were  involved  in  severe  afflic- 
tion. An  insurrection  broke  out  among  the  Negroes  on  this 
part  of  the  coast ;  and  the  authorities  attempted  to  attach 
blame  to  the  poor  Missionary,  as  if  he  could  have  had  any 
interest  in  exciting  the  slaves  to  rebellion.  Mr.  Smith  was 
forthwith  dragged  to  prison,  and  his  private  journal  and  other 
papers  were  instantly  seized.  He  was  tried  by  a  court-martial, 
and  sentenced  to  death !  The  sentence  of  the  court  was 
referred  home  for  His  Majesty's  decision,  and  the  King,  well- 
knowing  the  animus  of  the  West  Indian  aristocracy  at  that 
time,  was  pleased  to  remit  the  same ;  but  required,  however, 
that  the  Missionary  should  for  ever  quit  the  scene  of  his 
labours.  The  dispatches  containing  the  royal  mandate  were 
sent  out  with  all  possible  speed;  but,  before  they  reached 
Demerara,  Mr.  Smith  had  sunk  beneath  his  accumulated 
troubles  and  cruel  treatment,— a  martyr  in  the  cause  of  truth. 
He  died  in  prison,  deeply  regretted  by  his  brethren  ;  and  his 
happy  spirit  ascended  to  that  place,  where  "  liis  rigJiteousness 
sJiall  he  brought  forth  as  lights  and  his  judgment  as  the  noo7i- 
day^  "  There  the  wicked  cease  from  troubling  :  and  there  the 
weary  are  at  rest." 

Nothing  daunted  by  these  adverse  circumstances,  the  Lon- 
don Missionary  Society  continued  to  send  out  reinforcements 
to  strengthen  their  respective  Missions  in  British  Guiana ;  and 
they  have  realized  a  large  ingathering  of  precious  souls  into  the 
fold  of  Christ.  Of  late  years,  however,  their  cause  has  suffered, 
in  common  with  that  of  other  kindred  institutions,  from  the 
effects  of  the  agricultural  and  commercial  depression  which  has 
overtaken  the  West  India  colonies,  as  Avell  as  from  political 
agitation,  which  frequently  exists  among  the  people. 

The  Church  Missionary  Society  has,  for  many  years,  had  a 
station  among  the  Indians  on  the  river  Essequibo,  which  has 


^ 


CHAP.    II. — THE    COLONY    OF    DEMERAEA.  263 


been  attended  with  much  good  to  that  long-neglected  people ; 
but  there  are  still  vast  numbers  of  these  aborigines  totally 
destitute  of  the  means  of  religious  instruction. 

The  Wesleyan  Missionary  SocieLy  did  not  succeed  in  estab- 
lishing a  Mission  in  Demerara  till  the  year  1815;  a  former 
attempt  in  1805  having  been  frustrated  by  the  expulsion  of  the 
Missionary,  the  Eev.  J.  Hawkshaw,  from  the  colony.  Previous 
to  that  period,  their  energies  had  been  chiefly  directed  to  those 
places  where  the  call  seemed  more  imperative,  in  consequence 
of  the  total  lack  of  evangelical  labourers.  But  the  vast  field  of 
British  Guiana  was  found  wide  enough  for  all ;  and  the  Wes- 
leyan Missionaries  could  no  longer  resist  the  call  now  made 
upon  them  for  spiritual  aid  by  several  of  their  own  people,  who 
had  removed  thither  from  the  neighbouring  colonies.  Although 
the  next  attempt  proved  successful,  it  was  in  the  face  of  many 
obstacles  and  much  persecution  that  the  Rev.  T.  Talboys  com- 
menced and  prosecuted  his  labours.  At  one  time  his  house 
was  surrounded  by  the  mob,  and  his  life  was  in  danger ;  but  he 
persevered  in  his  work,  being  nobly  assisted  by  two  intelligent 
men  of  colour,  Mr.  William  Claxton  and  Mr.  William  Powell, 
who  came  from  Nevis  in  1801,  where  they  were  converted  under 
the  preaching  of  the  Wesleyan  Missionaries.  He  was  succeeded 
by  the  Eev.  John  ]\Iortier,  a  man  remarkably  judicious,  mild 
and  conciliatory  in  his  manners ;  but  the  hostile  spirit  of  the 
Government  and  the  higher  classes  continued  nevertheless. 
Legal  restrictions  were  imposed  upon  the  Missionaries,  which 
were  very  embarrassing,  and  calculated  to  impede  the  progress 
of  their  work.  For  some  time  no  meetings  were  allowed  to  be 
held  after  sunset ;  and  the  Missionary  was  obliged  to  resort  to 
the  expedient  of  reading  written  sermons  to  the  slaves,  that  he 
might  be  the  better  able  to  verify  every  sentiment  wdiich  he 
advanced  in  the  course  of  his  ministry,  in  case  any  question 
should  be  raised  on  the  subject.  On  one  occasion,  a  Society 
ticket  was  found  on  the  road,  having  been  dropped  by  a  Negro 
member ;  and  the  passage  of  Scripture  which  it  bore  was  inter- 
preted, by  some  of  the  wiseacres  of  that  dark  period,  as  favour- 
ing rebellion !  An  attempt  was  made,  from  this  trifling  cii*- 
cumstance,  to  raise  an  open  persecution  against  the  Mission. 


2 6-4  PART    n. — THE    AVEST    INDIES. 

J»ut  Divine  Providence,  in  this  instance,  frnstrated  the  enemies 
of  the  tmth,  and  the  Missionaries  were  allowed  to  proceed  with 
their  beloved  work.  To  show  how  perfectly  groundless  were 
the  jealousies  and  suspicions  of  the  planters  and  the  Government 
officials  as  to  the  influence  and  tendency  of  the  instructions  of 
the  Missionaries,  we  may  here  remark  that,  after  the  excitement 
caused  by  the  insurrection  of  1833  was  over,  it  was  proved  that 
not  one  member  of  the  Wesleyan  Society  was  concerned  in  it, 
either  directly  or  indirectly. 

But  the  early  history  of  this  interesting  Mission  is  marked 
not  only  by  difficulties  arising'  from  the  hostile  spirit  of  the 
planters,  but  also  by  hinderances  connected  with  the  trying- 
character  of  the  climate.  Often  were  the  Missionaries  laid 
aside  by  illness,  and,  on  one  occasion,  two  were  smitten  down 
by  death  within  a  day  or  two  of  each  other.  The  Eev.  Mr. 
Ames  died  at  Mahaica,  on  the  1st,  and  the  Rev.  Air.  Bellamy, 
at  George  Town,  on  the  2nd  of  November,  1831 ;  and  both 
stations  were  left  without  a  Minister.  The  Rev.  W.  J.  Shrews- 
bury with  characteristic  zeal  hastened  to  Demerara,  from  Bar- 
badoes,  to  supply  the  vacancy  till  Missionaries  could  be  sent 
from  England. 

It  is  a  pleasing  fact,  however,  that,  notwithstanding  every 
difficulty,  the  work  of  God  prospered  in  Demerara,  to  an  extent 
which  scarcely  finds  a  parallel  in  the  history  of  Missions. 
Under  the  zealous  labours  of  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Mortier,  Chees- 
wq-ight,  Edmondson,  Rayner,  Yigis,  Hornabrook,  and  others,  hun- 
dreds and  thousands  of  poor  Negroes  were  gathered  into  the  fold 
of  Christ,  who  will  no  doubt  be  their  joy  and  the  crown  of  their 
rejoicing  in  the  day  of  the  Lord  Jesus.  When  the  dark  cloud  of 
persecution  had  in  a  measure  passed  over,  chapels  were  erected  at 
Werken-Rust,  Kingston,  and  Mahaica,  and  large  congregations 
and  churches  were  collected  at  each  place  ;  and  Sabbath  schools 
for  the  instruction  of  the  rising  generation  were  organized  on 
every  station. 

On  my  arrival  in  Demerara,  in  1834,  I  found,  however,  that 
all  restrictions  to  missionary  labour  were  not  entirely  removed. 
Before  I  could  exercise  my  ministry,  I  had  to  procure  a  licence 
from  the  Governor,  who  carefully  inspected  my  ordination  cer- 


CHAP.    II. — THE    COLONY    OF    DEMERARA.  265 

tiiicate  and  other  credentials,  althougli  he  was  perfectly  cour- 
teous, and  spoke  highly  of  our  Mission.  On  examining  my 
"licence"  immediately  after  it  came  to  hand,  I  was  concerned 
to  iind  that  it  contained  a  clause  requiring  me  "  not  to  allow 
any  meeting,  at  which  I  was  not  personally  present,  to  be  held 
on  the  station."  Perceiving  that  this  restriction  would  operate 
very  injuriously  on  our  system  of  Class-Meetings  and  prayer- 
meetings,  as  well  as  on  the  labours  of  our  two  native  Catechists, 
AV.  Claxton  and  W.  Powell,  who  had  been  regularly  licensed,  1 
hastened  back  with  the  document,  and  remonstrated  against  the 
introduction  of  such  a  clause.  His  honour  the  Fiscal  was  then 
pleased  to  say,  that  he  was  obliged  to  use  the  old  form ;  but 
that  it  was  not  intended  to  interfere  with  any  of  our  usages. 
I  am  happy  in  being  able  to  add,  that  during  my  sojourn  in  the 
colony  I  never  met  with  the  slightest  interruption  from  the 
Government  authorities  or  others  in  the  prosecution  of  my  mis- 
sionary labours. 

There  were  several  features  in  the  character  of  our  work  at 
Demerara,  at  the  period  to  which  I  refer,  that  were  peculiarly 
gratifying  to  my  feelings.  The  congregations,  both  on  Sab- 
baths and  week-nights,  were  almost  invariably  large  and 
attentive;  and  a  lecture  which  I  delivered  every  Wednesday 
morning  at  five  o'clock  was  also  well  attended.  The  Sabbath 
schools  were  flourishing :  and  on  two  mornings  in  the  week  I 
met  the  children  for  catechetical  instruction.  His  Excellency 
the  Governor,  Sir  Carmichael  Smith,  on  attending  the  examina- 
tion of  our  schools  in  Kingston  cliapel,  was  pleased  to  express 
his  admiration  at  the  progress  the  children  had  made ;  and,  for 
their  encouragement,  distributed  among  them  as  rewards  several 
books  and  medals.  In  fact,  the  whole  aspect  of  the  Mission 
was  cheering ;  a  considerable  addition  was  made  to  the  number 
of  church  members;  and  I  felt  myself  highly  honoured  in 
having  for  my  colleague  and  Superintendent,  the  Rev.  John 
Mortier,  a  devoted  Christian  Minister,  and  the  Chairman  of  the 
District,  who  had  long  "  borne  the  burden  and  the  heat  of  the 
day."* 

'•^  Tor  several  years,  I  had  the  honour  of  bcinc:  associated  with  this  faithful 
servant  of  the  Lord,  ou  this  and  on  other  stations ;  and  I  cannot  pass  on 


266  PAET    II. THE    WEST    IKDIES. 

"While  we  had  thus  occasion  to  rejoice  over  the  general  pros- 
perity of  the  work,  we  were  not  without  our  trials  and  difficulties. 
Some  of  them  arose  out  of  the  expiring  struggles  of  slavery. 
The  Act  of  Emancipation  had  not  yet  come  into  operation ;  and 
a  bitter  feeling  of  asperity  existed  in  many  quarters  in  prospect 
of  the  future.  On  the  27th  of  June,  a  poor  slave  came  to  me 
with  a  tale  of  woe  which  made  my  heart  ache.  He  had  just 
been  sold  to  a  planter  living  in  a  distant  part  of  the  countr^^ 
in  consequence  of  which  he  was  about  to  be  separated  from  his 
wife  and  family,  as  well  as  from  the  means  of  grace,  which  he 
highly  prized.  I  felt  most  acutely  for  him ;  but  I  could  do 
nothing,  only  pray  for  him,  and  exhort  him  to  trust  in  the 
Lord,  and  patiently  wait  for  the  day  of  freedom,  which  was  just 
beginning  to  dawn  upon  the  country.  Scarcely  a  week  passed 
without  some  painful  occurrence  of  this  kind ;  and  I  do  believe, 
that  if  Divine  Providence  had  not  interposed,  and  put  an  end  to 
this  cruel  system,  the  most  appalling  consequences  would  have 
followed.  The  people  were  literally  wasting  away  with  grief 
and  oppression.  There  were  in  the  colony  of  Demerara  at  that 
time  63,641  slaves;  but,  during  the  preceding  twelve  months, 
there  had  been  4,229  deaths,  and  only  2,879  births;  showing 
a  decrease  in  the  slave  population  of  1,350  in  one  year.  Tiiis 
is  a  simple  fact,  extracted  from  the  official  returns  of  the 
Colonial  Registrar  at  the  time ;  and  may  serve  to  show  how  the 
population  was  melting  away  under  the  wasting  influence  of 
slavery. 

without  a  humble  tribute  to  his  memory ;  for  I  never  laboured  with  a  more 
generous,  kind-hearted,  loving,  and  loveable  Missionary  than  the  venerable 
John  Mortier.  He  spent  nearly  thirty-six  years  of  his  useful  life  in  the 
West  Indies.  His  name  and  memory  are  still  cherished  with  much 
affection  in  Nevis,  St.  Vincent's,  Grenada,  St.  Kitt's,  and  Demerara ;  but  it 
Avas  in  the  colony  last  named  where  he  was  best  known,  and,  consequently, 
most  beloved;  having  devoted  himself  for  about  seventeen  years  to  the 
interests  of  that  important  Mission.  During  his  long  period  of  foreign 
service  he  visited  England  twice, — in  1828  for  the  purpose  of  recruiting  his 
health,  and  in  1848  on  retiring  as  a  Supernumerary;  but  on  both  occasions, 
after  a  short  residence,  he  gladly  returned  to  his  beloved  AYest  Indies. 
There  he  continued  his  zealous  labours,  according  to  his  strength,  till  the 
very  last ;  and  finished  his  course,  happy  in  God,  in  the  island  of  St.  Kitt's, 
on  the  13th  of  June,  1850. 


CHAr.    II. — THE    COLONY    OF    DEMEUARA.  '   267 

The  Emancipation  Act  provided  for  the  abolition  of  slavery 
on  the  1st  of  August,  1834  ;  but  before  full  and  unrestricted 
freedom  was  to  be  imparted  to  the  poor  slaves,  there  was  to  be 
an  interim  of  six  years'  apprenticeship  for  field  labourers,  and 
four  years  for  house  servants.  Only  children  under  seven  years 
of  age  were  made  fully  free  at  once.  If  this  term  of  service, 
required  in  the  case  of  adults,  was  intended  as  compensation  to 
the  planters,  then  the  question  might  be  asked.  Were  not  the 
ttcenty  millions  sterling,  generously  granted  by  the  British 
nation  to  be  divided  among  the  planters,  sufficient  for  the 
purpose  ?  If  it  be  replied,  that  it  was  necessary  that  the  Negro 
should  be  instructed  in  the  art  of  agriculture ;  and  that,  there- 
fore, the  terra  of  service  was  a  judicious  arrangement;  we 
answer  in  the  language  of  the  Negroes  themselves  on  the  occa- 
sion, "  People  make  prentice  for  learn  to  work.  Poor  Negro 
work  plenty  long  time ;  he  sabby  work  very  well ;  he  no  want 
massa  for  make  him  prentice''  The  apprenticeship  system  was 
altogether  an  unnecessary  and  vexatious  arrangement;  and 
proved  to  be  nothing  better  than  a  modified  form  of  slavery. 

Defective,  however,  as  was  the  apprenticeship,  as  compared 
with  entire  freedom,  it  was  hailed  with  joy  as  a  step  in  the 
right  direction ;  and  more  especially  as  a  definite  time  was  fixed 
when  full  liberty  would  be  enjoyed  by  the  poor  Negro.  Yfhen 
the  1st  of  August  arrived,  it  was  celebrated  as  a  day  of  general 
thanksgiving  throughout  the  colony,  by  order  of  the  Governor ; 
and  every  place  of  worship  was  crowded  with  devout  and 
attentive  hearers.  We  endeavoured  to  adapt  the  services  to  the 
particular  occasion  which  called  us  together,  by  impressing 
upon  the  minds  of  the  people  the  necessity  of  rendering  thanks 
to  Almighty  God  for  His  great  goodness  in  bringing  about  this 
happy  change  in  their  condition  ;  and  of  conducting  themselves 
in  a  proper  manner  under  every  circumstance  in  life.  I 
preached  at  Kingston  in  the  morning  from  Luke  iv.  17,  18  ; 
and  in  the  evening  from  Psalm  xcvii.  1.  It  was  a  day  of 
spiritual  good  to  the  people,  and  everything  in  George  Town 
passed  off  with  perfect  order  and  decorum. 

Some  persons  in  the  West  Indies  and  in  E  ngland  also,  who, 
from  motives  of  self-interest,  had  opposed   emancipation,  pre- 


J^8  PAllT   II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

dieted  tliat,  on  the  experiment  being  tried,  it  would  result  in 
confusion,  anarchy,  and  blood ;  but,  I  am  thankful  to  say,  that 
the  very  reverse  of  tliis  was  the  case.  In  some  places,  where 
the  people  were  imperfectly  informed,  and  where  the  planters 
were  manifestly  averse  to  the  approaching  change,  considerable 
excitement  no  doubt  existed ;  and  it  was  owing  to  the  good  pro- 
vidence of  God  that  the  country  was  not  plunged  into  trouble 
by  the  very  parties  who  predicted  that  trouble  would  come. 
Although  I  purposely  refrain  from  going  into  detail  with  refer- 
ence to  matters  which  were  so  exciting  at  the  period  to  which  I 
refer,  one  instance  may  be  given  as  illustrative  of  the  spirit  of 
the  times. 

On  the  east  coast  of  British  Guiana,  a  considerable  number 
of  Negroes  refused  to  return  to  their  work  after  the  holidays  of 
the  1st  of  August,  1834,  being  under  a  misapprehension  as  to 
the  conditions  of  their  freedom.  The  Magistrates  who  had  pro- 
pounded to  them  the  new  law,  were  generally  gentlemen  con- 
nected with  the  planting  interest ;  and  the  labourers  suspected 
that  they  had  not  given  them  the  true  version  of  it.  They 
could  not  believe,  they  said,  that  King  William  would  make 
them  free,  and  yet  require  them  to  serve  for  six  years  as 
apprentices ;  they  therefore  refused  to  resume  their  labour  till 
they  should  know  from  the  Governor  the  real  facts  of  tlie  case. 
They  collected  together  in  a  large  body,  but  without  arms,  near 
the  church,  and  manifested  the  most  determined  passive  resist- 
ance to  every  effort  which  was  made  to  persuade  or  coerce  them 
to  return  to  their  duty.  The  militia  were  called  out,  and 
assumed  the  most  threatening  attitude,  but  all  to  no  purpose. 
The  district  was  pronounced  by  the  planters  in  a  state  of 
insurrection,  and  the  Governor  was  requested  to  proclaim 
martial  law.  This  he  refused  to  do,  but  proceeded  at  once  by 
steamer  to  the  scene  of  the  disturbance.  When  the  Negroes 
saw  the  smoke  of  the  Governor's  vessel  in  the  distance,  they 
rejoiced  exceedingly,  and  prepared  to  receive  His  Excellency  with 
every  demonstration  of  loyalty.  One  of  the  men,  named 
Damon,  a  house-servant,  who  had  only  joined  them  that  day, 
but  was  somewhat  more  active  than  the  rest,  cut  down  a  pcle 
in  the  neighbouring  forest,  and,  having  attached  to  it  a  piece  of 


CHAP.    II. — THE    COLONY    OF    DEMEIIARA.  269 

blue  cloth,  planted  it  as  a  flag-staff,  as  he  said,  to  "  show  their 
joy  at  the  Governor's  coming."  This  little  incident  was  con- 
strued by  the  planters  into  a  direct  act  of  rebellion ;  and  on  the 
landing  of  his  Excellency,  the  flag-staff,  with  the  piece  of  blue 
cloth  floating  at  tlie  top,  was  pointed  to  as  a  proof  that  the  dis- 
trict was  in  a  state  of  revolt.  The  people  were  nevertheless 
orderly  and  quiet,  and  formed  themselves  into- two  lines, 
between  which  the  Governor  passed,  whilst  they  bowed  to  him 
in  respectful  reverence,  as  the  representative  of  royalty.  His 
Excellency  drew  up  the  troops  that  accompanied  him,  and  read 
and  expounded  the  new  law  to  the  people,  admonishing  them  to 
submit  quietly  to  the  apprenticeship,  and  to  return  to  their  work 
at  once.  Having  thus  heard  how  the  matter  stood  from  the 
lips  of  the  Governor  himself,  in  whom  they  had  perfect  con- 
fidence, the  people  expressed  their  readiness  to  act  accordingly, 
and  dispersed  to  their  respective  estates. 

Here  the  matter  might  have  ended,  in  perfect  harmony  and 
peace  ;  but  it  was  deemed  necessary,  by  those  in  power,  to  make 
an  example  of  the  ringleaders  in  this  so-called  revolt.  Eighteen 
Avere  accordingly  arrested,  put  in  irons,  and  sent  to  George 
Town,  to  take  their  trial  for  rebellion.  I  will  not  attempt  to 
describe  or  characterize  the  trial  which  followed.  Suffice  it  to 
say,  that  poor  Damon  was  pronounced  guilty,  and  sentenced  to 
death ;  and  his  seventeen  compeers  were  to  be  severely  flogged 
beneath  the  gallows,  and  to  be  transported  for  life  beyond 
the  sea.  These  sentences  were  executed  to  the  letter,  so  far  as 
the  local  authorities  had  power.  Poor  Damon  was  hung  on  the 
13th  of  October,  a  day  which  I  shall  never  forget;  and  the 
remaining  seventeen  prisoners,  having  received  the  prescribed 
number  of  lashes  under  the  gallows,  were  conducted  back  to 
their  prison,  fearfully  lacerated  and  covered  wdtli  blood,  to 
await  their  banishment  from  the  shores  of  Demerara.  A  short 
time  afterwards  they  were  sent  to  England  as  convicts,  on  their 
way  to  a  foreign  penal  settlement ;  but,  by  this  time,  the 
Imperial  Government  had  opened  their  eyes  to  the  iniquity  of 
these  proceedings  ;  and  the  King  of  England,  to  mark  his  dis- 
approval of  the  unrighteous  sentence,  remitted  that  part  of  it 
which  related  to  the  transportation  of  the  seventeen  so-called 


270  PART    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

crimi-nals,  and  sent  them  back  to  Demerara,  where  they  after- 
wards lived  to  enjoy  the  blessings  of  entire  freedom. 

But  the  life  of  poor  Damon — undoubtedly  innocent  of  the 
crime  laid  to  his  charge — was  gone,  and  could  not  be  recalled. 
The  only  alleviation  to  the  pain  occasioned  by  a  review  of  these 
mournful  events,  is  the  fact  that  the  poor  sufferer  was  brought 
to  a  saving  knowledge  of  the  truth  during  his  confinement  in 
prison,  through  the  instrumentality  of  a  devoted  Missionary, 
•vvho  visited  him  constantly  till  the  day  of  his  death.  His 
sense  of  the  pardoning  mercy  of  God  through  Christ  was  clear 
and  joyous  ;  and  he  was  graciously  raised  above  every  feeling  of 
fear  or  dismay.  On  the  day  before  his  execution,  he  had  a 
parting  interview  witli  his  wife  and  children.  He  embraced 
them  affectionately,  gave  them  suitable  counsel,  and,  with  much 
firmness  and  fortitude,  bid  them  along  farewell.  The  last  Avords 
which  he  addressed  to  his  wife  are  worthy  of  record  :  "  Go  home 
now,"  said  he,  "  and  trust  in  God,  and  mind  dem  children ; 
don't  cry  for  me,  me  happy  now;  to-morrow,  when  white  man  open 
de  door,  and  take  me  out  for  kill  me,  God  sail  make  me  live :  1 
sail  go  to  Jesus  !  "  From  the  scafi'old  he  addressed  a  few  words 
to  the  assembled  multitude  still  declaring  his  innocence,  and 
repeating  that  he  raised  the  flagstafl:"  in  honour  of  the  Governor, 
and  not  as  a  token  of  revolt.  He  expressed  his  forgiveness  of 
every  body,  as  God  for  Christ's  sake  had  forgiven  him,  and  was 
launched  into  eternity. 

But  I  desire  to  cast  a  veil  over  this  and  many  other  scenes  of 
cruelty  which  I  witnessed  in  the  West  Indies,  as  tlie  bitter 
fruits  of  slavery ;  although  I  am  free  to  confess  that  the  bare 
review  of  them,  after  a  lapse  of  more  than  thirty  years,  recalls 
to  my  mind  some  of  those  painful  sensations  with  which  they 
were  associated  at  the  time.  The  grand  alleviation  now  is  the 
comfortable  reflection  that,  throughout  the  British  Empire, 
universal  freedom  reigns,  that  American  slavery  has  received 
its  death-blow,  and  that  the  day  of  freedom  for  the  last  sufi'er- 
ing  slave  is  rapidly  approaching. 

"  Haste,  happy  day,  when  every  child  of  Adam  shall  be  free !  " 

When  the  excitement  had  in  some  measure  subsided,  we  pro- 
ceeded with  our  evangelical  labours  with  comfort  and  success. 


CHAP.    II. — THE    COLONY    OF   DEMERARA.  271 

We  were  nobly  aided  and  supported  by  the  friends  of  freedom 
in  England.  The  British  and  Foreign  Bible  Society  generously 
presented  to  each  emancipated  slave  who  could  read,  a  copy  of 
the  New  Testament,  in  good  large  type,  and  substantially 
bound ;  and  to  show  the  extent  to  which  the  Missionaries  and 
their  teachers  had  succeeded  in  diffusing  education  among  the 
•people,  I  may  remark  that  teu  thousand  co/ies  were  required  for 
Demerara.  It  would  have  delighted  the  British  public,  could 
they  have  witnessed  the  diligent  efforts  made  by  the  poor 
Negroes  to  qualify  themselves  to  put  in  their  humble  claim  for 
the  gift,  and  the  grateful  emotions  with  which  they  received 
the  precious  boon. 

As  the  limits  which  I  have  assigned  to  these  sketches  re- 
quire a  constant  regard  to  compression  and  brevity,  I  will 
conclude  the  present  chapter  with  a  few  short  notices  of  the 
respective  stations  occupied  by  the  Wesley  an  Missionary  Society 
in  British  Guiana. 

George  Town,  the  capital  of  the  province,  is  the  head  of  a 
Circuit,  and  the  place  where  two  Ministers  reside.  One  is 
stationed  at  Werken-Ptust,  in  the  upper  part  of  the  town,  where 
M'e  have  a  commodious  and  respectable  place  of  W'orship,  called 
Trinity  Chapel,  which  will  seat  about  twelve  hundred  persons. 
The  congregations  are  generally  good,  and  the  cause  is  flourish- 
ing. The  new  chapel  is  a  noble  monument  of  the  piety,  zeal, 
and  benevolence  of  our  people,  as  well  as  of  the  indefatigable 
exertions  of  the  late  Rev.  W.  Hudson,  under  whose  judicious 
superintendence  it  was  erected.  Although  it  was  built  at  an 
expense  of  about  £4,000,  it  is  free  from  debt,  and  yields  a 
handsome  revenue,  which  is  a  great  help  to  other  departments 
of  the  work.  The  old  chapel,  the  erection  of  which  in  its  day 
i;vas  a  grand  achievement,  accomplished  by  the  untiring  efforts 
of  the  late  Eev.  John  Mortier,  has  been  converted  into  a  spacious 
schoolroom,  in  which  a  large  and  efficient  day-school  is  con- 
ducted by  a  talented  Native  Teacher,  who  resides  in  the  rooms 
above,  formerly  occupied  by  the  Superintendent  Minister,  who 
now  lives  in  a  commodious  Mission-House  in  the  adjoining 
street.  The  other  Minister  resides  at  Kingston,  in  the  lower 
part  of  the  city,  near  the  Government-House  and  the  military 


272  PART   II.— THE    WEST    INDIES. 

department,  where  we  have  a  good  chapel,  capable  of  accommo- 
dating about  eight  hundred  persons,  erected  under  the  superin- 
tendence of  the  Eev.  Moses  Eayner.  A.  day-school  is  also  in 
active  operation.  The  good  work  here  also  wears  a  pleasing- 
aspect.  Interesting  out-stations  have  been  established  at 
Supply,  Mocha,  Nismes,  Kome,  Plaisance,  and  other  places, 
which  are  visited  at  stated  periods,  and  at  some  of  which  neat 
little  chapels  have  been  erected,  and  promising  schools  estab- 
lished. 

Mahaica  is  a  station  in  an  ancient  village,  which  stands  on 
a  navigable  creek  of  that  name,  on  the  west  coast,  about  twenty- 
five  miles  from  George  Town.  In  former  times  this  was  a  very 
important  and  prosperous  Mission,  being  central  to  a  number  of 
populous  estates  ;  but  since  the  recent  changes  in  the  civil  con- 
dition of  the  people,  many  removals  have  taken  place,  and  the 
number  of  church-members  is  considerably  diminished.  "We 
have  a  good  country  chapel  here,  which  will  seat  about  eight 
hundred  people,  and  a  prosperous  day-school.  The  chapel  has 
recently  been  enlarged  and  improved  at  a  cost  of  £950. 
Mahaicony,  Perth,  Virginia,  and  some  other  minor  places,  are 
visited  by  the  Superintendent  Minister  and  his  assistant  residing 
at  Mahaica,  at  some  of  which  small  chapels  have  been  erected, 
and  schools  organized. 

YicTORiA  and  Golden  Gkove  are  important  villages  about 
half  way  between  George  Town  and  Mahaica,  and  unitedly, 
together  with  a  few  minor  places,  form  an  interesting  Circuit. 
The  village  of  Victoria  was  built  upon  an  estate  purchased  by  a 
number  of  the  newly-emancipated  slaves,  as  a  joint-stock  company. 
Having  obtained  possession  of  their  respective  lots  of  land,  and 
erected  comfortable  little  cottages  for  themselves,  they  made  a 
noble  effort,  and  erected  a  substantial  and  handsome  chapel  in 
the  centre  of  the  village,  which  will  probably  accommodate  seven 
hundred  people.  I  had  the  pleasure  of  being  present  at  the  first 
Missionary  Meeting  ever  held  in  this  place,  when  there  was  a 
fine  display  of  Christian  zeal  and  liberality.  friendship, 
Buxton,  and  Ann's  Grove  are  out-stations,  with  a  large  number 
of  church-members,  neat  little  chapels,  and  prosperous  schools. 
They  are  visited  in  rotation  by  the  two  Missionaries  who  labour 


CHAP.    II. — THE    COLONY   OF    DEMERABA.  273 

in  this  Circuit.  The  work  in  this  neighbourhood  may  be  re- 
garded with  additional  interest,  from  the  circumstance  that  it 
was  commenced  by  an  Evangelical  Clergyman  of  the  Church  of 
England ;  who,  finding  himself  unable  to  submit  to  the  Pusey- 
istic  demands  of  his  diocesan,- declared  his  independence.  After 
remaining  in  an  isolated  position  for  two  or  three  years,  he 
sought  and  found  for  himself  and  his  people  an  asylum  within 
the  pale  of  the  Wesleyan  Church,  where  he  could  enjoy  liberty 
of  conscience,  and  be  unfettered  in  his  etTorts  to  diffuse  a  know- 
ledge of  the  Kedeemer.  He  soon  afterwards  returned  to  England, 
and  ultimately  settled  on  the  continent  of  Europe. 

EssEQUiBO  is  now  the  name  given  to  a  Circuit  which  was 
formerly  known  as  Abrara  Zuil,  on  what  is  called  the  Arabian 
Coast,  in  a  rural  district,  on  the  west  of  the  Essequibo  river. 
The  Mission  was  commenced  by  the  Rev.  Eichard  Hornabrook 
in  the  year  1886,  and  has  exerted  a  very  beneficial  influence  in 
that  part  of  the  country.  Out-stations  were  ultimately  estab- 
lished at  Zorg,  Queen!' s  Town,  Ebenezer,  Anna  Regina,  DanieVs 
Town,  and  more  recently  on  the  island  of  WaJcmaam.  At  some 
of  these  places  chapels  have  been  erected,  and  schools  estab- 
lished ;  whilst  at  others  strenuous  efforts  are  being  made  to 
supply  what  is  wanting  to  give  stability  and  permanence  to  the 
good  work. 

Bekbice  is  comparatively  a  new  Mission,  having  only 
enjoyed  the  advantage  of  a  resident  Missionary  for  a  few 
years.  Our  services  were  imperatively  called  for  at  this 
place,  so  remote  from  our  other  stations  in  British  Guiana,  by 
the  circumstance  of  a  considerable  number  of  our  people  having 
removed  thither  from  the  Leeward  Islands,  to  say  nothing  of 
the  wide  field  for  evangelical  labours  among  a  dense  population. 
Several  respectable  persons  of  Dutch  descent  were  also  anxious 
to  have  a  Wesleyan  Minister,  and  generously  offered  the  free 
use  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  church  and  parsonage,  with  sub- 
stantial pecuniary  aid  besides.  Under  these  favourable  cir- 
cumstances, the  Mission  was  commenced  in  ]  847,  and  more 
fully  organized  in  1853;  the  Rev.  John  Wood,  Jun.,  being  the 
first  resident  Missionary.  He  was  succeeded  by  the  Rev. 
Messrs.  Padgham  and  Banfield,  whose  labours  were    made  a 

T 


274  PAllT   II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

great  blessing-  to  the  country.  Out-stations  have  been  formed 
at  Smith  Toion,  Stanlei/  Town,  and  Cimiherland,  and  a  good 
■work  is  in  progress  throughout  the  Circuit. 

The  Coolie  Mission  in  Demerara  is  for  the  special  bene- 
fit of  the  many  thousands  of  Coolies  who  have  been  imported 
from  India,  to  supply  the  lack  of  labour  whicli  was  alleged  to 
exist  in  the  colony.  By  this  arrangement  these  heathen 
strangers  have  the  privile2;e  of  hearing  the  Gospel  in  their  own 
tongue ;  and  the  result  has  been  so  far  encouraging. 

The  Wesleyan  Circuits  in  British  Guiana  have  once  more 
been  formed  into  a  separate  District,  under  the  able  superin- 
tendence of  the  Rev.  H.  Bleby  ;  and,  from  the  character  of  the 
lield,  and  the  noble  stalf  of  labourers  who  occupy  it,  we  may 
•anticipate  that  the  future  for  success  and  blessing  will  not  only 
be  as  the  past,  but  much  more  abundant.  We  have  now  in 
the  colony  tic entij -three  chapels,  ten  Missionaries,  three  thoU' 
^and  one  Itundred  and  fifty -two  church  viemhers,  about  three 
thousand  scholars,  and  upwards  of  eleven  thousand  attendants  on 
public  worship. 

After  labouring  for  a  little  more  than  a  year  in  Demerara,  we 
embarked  for  Barbadoes,  to  which  I  had  been  appointed  by  the 
Committee,  on  account  of  the  partial  failure  of  my  health.  The 
dear  friends  with  whom  we  were  associated,  had  shown  us  much 
kindness ;  and  the  separation  appeared  equally  painful  to  both 
Pastor  and  people.  Our  attachment  to  this  our  first  station  in 
the  \'\'est  Indies  was  not  evanescent,  but  enduring ;  and  we  have 
never  ceased  to  cherish  an  affectionate  remembrance  of  the 
place  and  the  people,  or  to  pray  for  the  blessing  of  God  to  rest 
npon  them. 

I  had  the  pleasure  of  revisiting  the  colony  of  Demerara  in  the 
-•nonth  of  Eebruary,  1847,  to  attend  the  annual  District  Meet- 
ing, after  an  absence  of  twelve  years.  Of  course  many  changes 
liad  taken  place  in  the  interim  ;  but  1  found  a  few  old  friends, 
who  rejoiced  exceedingly  at  the  privilege  of  meeting  once  more 
in  the  flesh ;  and  I  had  occasion  to  thank  God  for  the  growth 
and  extension  of  the  good  work  since  my  departure  from  the 
colony.  After  the  termination  of  our  business  I  took  an  inter- 
esting missionary  tour  through  the  province,  in  company  with 


CHAP.    II. — THE    COLO^'Y    OF    DEMEEAEA.  275 

my  dear  brethren,  the  Eev.  William  Bainiister  and  the  Kev. 
William  Hudson,  both  of  whom  have  since  been  removed  to  the 
"  better  country."  We  preached  and  held  Missionary  Meetings 
in  George  Town,*  Victoria,  ^Mahaica,  and  Berbice.  At  New 
Amsterdam  we  preached  in  the  Dutch  lleformed  church,  and 
held  some  interesting  meetings  with  our  Society,  which  had 
been  regularly  organized,  and  consisted  of  nearly  one  hundred 
members,  who  earnestly  desired  a  resident  Minister,  having 
hitherto  only  been  visited  at  stated  periods  by  the  Ministers 
from  George  Town. 

I  cannot  close  these  brief  notices  without  expressing  my  convic- 
tion, that,  notwithstanding  the  efforts  hitherto  made  for  the  evan- 
gelization of  British  Guiana,  it  still  presents  to  the  friends  of  Mis- 
sions a  field  of  labour  which  is  peculiarly  inviting.  Among  the 
dense  population  which  everywhere  abounds,  many  more  Mis- 
sionaries might  be  usefully  employed,  and  fruit  would,  no  doubt, 
appear  in  due  time.  It  is  a  pleasing  fact,  that  our  native 
churches  in  Demerara  have  for  many  years  past  been  entirely  self- 
supported  ;  and  have  contributed  largely  towards  sending  the 

*  At  the  ^lissionary  Meeting  in  George  Town,  whicli  was  the  first  ever  held 
in  the  now  Trinity  chapel,  the  chair  was  occupied  by  !M.  J.  Retcraeyer, 
Esq.,  ITer  Majesty's  Receiver  General  in  British  Guiana,  and  a  friend  of 
Missions,  whose  name  is  worthy  of  a  place  in  every  sketch  of  our  work  in 
Dcmerara.  Mr.  Rctemeyer  was  himself  the  fruit  of  missionary  labour. 
Occupying  a  high  and  honourable  position  in  the  colony,  like  thousands 
more,  he  contiuued  in  a  great  measure  indiflerent  to  Divine  things,  till  the 
early  part  of  the  year  1835,  when  he  was  induced  by  a  favourite  domestic 
one  Sabbath  to  attend  the  Wcsleyan  chapel.  ^ly  esteemed  Superintendent, 
the  late  Rev.  John  Mortier,  was  the  otficiating  Minister;  and  he  commenced 
the  service  by  giving  out  the  hymn  commencing, — 

"  0  't  is  enough,  my  God,  my  God ! 

Here  let  me  give  my  wanderings  o'er." 

Thp.  impression  made  by  this  hymn,  and  the  discourse  which  followed, 
resulted  in  the  conversion  of  the  distinguished  stranger;  who  soou  after 
ur.ited  himself  in  church-fellow^ship  with  us,  and  became  henceforth  a  fast 
friend  and  liberal  supporter  of  our  work.  Mr.  Retemcyer  died  very  happy 
in  God,  in  George  Town,  on  the  14th  of  March,  1850.  See  an  interesting 
^Memoir  of  this  Christian  gentleman  in  the  Wesleyan  Magazine  for  1852, 
by  the  Rev.  James  Bickferd,  p.  1. 

T   2 


276  PAET   II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

Gospel  to  heathen  lands.  Tor  zeal  in  the  cause  of  God,  and 
love  for  their  Ministers,  the  people  have  always  been  most 
exemplary. 


CHAPTER  III. 

THE  ISLAND  OF  BAEP,M)OES. 

Appeara"Nce  of  the  Island — Discovered  by  the  Poi'tuguese — Settled  by 
the  English — Inkle  and  Yarico — Early  Prosperity — Causes  of  Declen- 
sion— Aspect  of  the  Country — Towns  and  Villages — Codrington  Col- 
lege— Moral  Condition  of  the  People — Quakers — ^Moravians — Wes- 
leyans — Early  Persecution — Improved  Prospects — Renewed  Opposition 
— Destruction  of  the  Chapel — Re-establishment  of  the  Mission — Pros- 
perity of  the  Work — "William  Reece,  Esq. — Hurricane — Mission 
Stations — Bridge  Town — Providence — Ebenezer — Speight's  Town — 
Scotland. 

At  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  the  navigation  between 
Demerara  and  Barbadoes,  for  sailing  vessels,  is  somewhat 
difficult  and  uncertain,  owing  to  the  strong  current  occasioned 
by  the  mighty  volume  of  water  poured  into  the  Altantic  Ocean 
from  the  numerous  mouths  of  the  river  Orinoco.  This  was  the 
case  when  we  first  made  the  passage  in  a  small  schooner  called 
the  "  Paget,"  commanded  by  Captain  Mann.  After  being  at 
sea  five  days,  in  boisterous  weather,  during  which  our  top-mast 
was  carried  away,  we  discovered  that  we  were  considerably  to 
the  leeward  of  the  island,  and  were  obliged  to  beat  up  against 
the  wind.  We  made  the  land,  however,  on  Wednesday  morn- 
ing, the  25th  of  March,  1835.  Barbadoes  is  not  mountainous, 
like  most  of  the  West  India  Islands ;  but  rises  gradually  out  of 
the  sea,  to  a  moderate  elevation ;  and  has  been  compared,  when 
seen  at  a  distance,  to  a  huge  turtle  floating  on  the  surffice  of 
the  water.  In  the  afternoon,  we  came  to  anchor  in  Cnrlisle 
Bay,  and  landed  in  Bridge  Town,  where  we  were  kindly  received 


CHAP.   III. — THE    ISLAND    OF    BARBADOES.  277 

by  the  late  Kev.  James  Eathbone  and  the  Eev.  James  Aldis, 
the  Wesleyan  Missionaries  then  resident  in  the  colony. 

Eefore  proceeding  with  the  observations  which  I  have  to 
make  on  the  character  and  results  of  our  united  missionary 
labours  during  my  personal  connexion  with  this  interesting 
station,  I  shall  take  the  liberty  of  presenting  to  the  reader  a 
brief  sketch  of  the  history  and  general  aspect  of  the  island,  as 
w^ell  as  of  the  rise  and  progress  of  Methodism,  up  to  the  time 
of  our  arrival. 

Barbadoes  is  situated  in  latitude  15«  10'  north,  and  longitude 
19"  42'  west ;  and  being  to  the  windward  of  all  the  other 
islands,  it  is  generally  the  first  land  made  by  vessels  sailing 
from  Europe  to  the  West  Indies.  Notwithstanding  this  cir- 
cumstance, it  does  not  appear  to  have  been  visited  by  the 
enterprising  Columbus  at  the  time  he  discovered  several  of  the 
other  islands  and  the  continent  of  America.  The  honour  of  dis- 
covery seems  to  have  been  reserved  for  the  Portuguese,  who  aresaid 
to  have  landed  on  the  island  in  the  year  1600.  These  adventurers, 
however,  formed  no  settlement,  neither  did  they  take  formal 
possession  of  the  country ;  but  merely  put  on  shore  a  couple  of 
swine,  and  then  passed  on  to  other  lands  in  search  of  gold.  It 
is  very  remarkable  that,  when  first  discovered,  Barbadoes  was 
not  only  without  inhabitants,  but  there  appeared  no  visible 
trace  of  its  ever  having  been  visited  by  any  human  being. 
Subsequent  observations,  however,  have  led  to  the  conclusion 
that  it  must  have  been  inhabited,  probably  by  a  tribe  of  Caribs, 
though  at  a  remote  period,  as  specimens  of  antique  earthenware 
-and  other  articles  have  been  dug  out  of  the  ground. 

In  the  year  1605,  an  English  ship  called  the  "Olive  Blos- 
som," which  was  on  her  vo^'age  from  London  to  Surinam, 
touched  at  the  island.  The  Captain  and  a  few  men  landed,  and 
formally  took  possession  of  it  in  the  name  of  "  James  King  of 
England."  Having  erected  a  cross,  and  carved  an  inscription 
on  a  tree,  to  commemorate  their  visit,  they  took  their  departure. 
Some  years  afterwards,  another  English  ship,  belonging  to  Sir 
William  Courteen,  on  its  return  from  the  Brazils,  was  driven  to 
Barbadoes  by  the  violence  of  a  tempest,  and  took  shelter  in  the 
harboui'.     On  landing,  the  Master  and  seamen  observed  the 


278  PAET    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

memorial  of  the  previous  visit  of  tlieir  countrymen.  The  hogs 
that  had  been  left  by  the  Portuguese  were  greatly  increased  in 
number,  and  the  woods  were  filled  with  these  useful  animals, 
thereby  affording  a  good  supply  of  provisions  for  the  use  of  the 
ship's  company.  This  vessel  carried  iiome  a  very  favourable 
report  of  the  island,  and  considerable  interest  was  excited  in 
England  at  the  time. 

In  1624  the  enterprising  Sir  William  Courteen  collected  about 
thirty  persons,  to  go  oui  for  the  purpose  of  forming  an  English 
settlement  in  Barbadoes.  They  were  provided  with  provisions, 
seeds,  and  agricultural  implements  ;  and  on  their  arrival,  towards 
the  close  of  the  year,  they  commenced  building  their  houses, 
and  clearing  the  land,  in  the  place  where  Hole  Town  now  stands. 
A  person  named  William  Dean  was  appointed  Governor  of  the 
little  colony.  The  whole  island  was  at  that  time  thickly  wooded, 
and  it  was  by  great  labour  and  perseverance  that  this  little  band 
of  adventurers  established  themselves  in  this  the  land  of  their- 
adoption.  In  1639,  the  colony  was  reinforced  by  the  arrival  of 
sixty-four  emigrants  from  England,  under  the  patronage  of 
Lord  Carlisle,  who  had  obtained  from  King  Charles  a  grant,  hj 
patent,  of  the  whole  island.  Considerable  unpleasantness  and 
litigation  now  occuiTed  among  different  parties  who  claimed  a 
right  in  the  soil.  Sir  William  Tufton,  who  had  been  appointed 
Governor  by  Lord  Carlisle,  was  tried  by  a  court-martial,  found 
guilty  of  treason,  and  condemned  to  be  shot.  This  severe 
sentence  was  carried  into  execution  with  as  little  ceremony  as 
there  was  justice  in  the  proceedings.  The  colony  was  after- 
wards considerably  increased  by  the  arrival,  at  different  times, 
of  persons  who  had  fled  from  England  on  account  of  the 
political  agitations  in  which  Great  Britain,  in  common  with  the 
whole  of  Europe,  was  at  that  period  involved.  These  parties 
are  described  as  coming  chiefly  from  Kent,  Suffolk,  Essex, 
Hertford,  Devonshire,  and  Cornwall,  who  brought  with  them,  in 
some  instances,  a  considerable  amount  of  capital,  as  well  as 
habits  of  industry  and  enterprise. 

The  European  emigrants  who  first  settled  in  the  island  of 
Barbadoes  had  not  advanced  far  in  the  work  of  building,  clear- 
ing,  and   planting,   before   they  felt   the  want   of   additional 


CHAP.    III.— THE    ISIASD    or    BAKBADOES. 


279 


labourers      There  were  onlv  two  classes  of  people  wliicli  seemed 
likely   to   endure   the   iatigue   and   exhaustion   of    a  tropical 
cliraate,-the  Indians  of  America,  and  the  Negroes  of  Africa. 
They  first  tried  the  neighbouring  continent,  and  succeeded  m 
dra iino-  away  a  number  of  poor  Caribs  into  abject  slavery.    As 
soorasUie  object  of  the  yisits  of  the  white  men  became  known, 
the   natives   mustered  their  forces;    and  when  their   enemies 
returned  on  one  occasion,  they  met  ^vith  the  most  vigorous 
resistance.     Several  of  the  Europeans  were  kil  ed,  and  the  rest 
fled  for  their  lives  into  the  neighbouring  woods.     One  ot  the 
fu.ntives  was   a  man  named  Inkle,  who  was  afterwards   dis- 
covered in  his  retreat  by  an  amiable  young  Carib  girl  ca  led 
Tarico.     This  daughter  of  the  forest  pitied  the  forlorn  white 
man,  and,  instead  of  reporting  him  to  her  Chief,  she  formed  the 
noble  resolution  of  secretly  supporting  him  in  his  sobtude  till 
he  could  make  his  escape.     Faithful  to  her  engagement  she 
daily  carried  him  food,   and  watched  over  him  with  a  s'^ter  s 
care      At  length  she  saw  an  English  vessel  hovering  off  the 
coast,    and   instantly   made   him   acquainted   with   the  joytul 
tidin-s.     She  now  became  his  guide,  and  conducted  him  to  the 
coast?  where  he  succeeded  in  communicating  with  the  vesse 
When  Inkle  was  about  to  step  into  the  boat,  the  Indian  g.r    elt 
reluctant  to  bid  a  final  adieu  to  the  white  man,  for  her  friendship 
had  ripened  iuto  affection.     She  therefore  asked  permission  to 
accompany  him  to  the  "  land  of  the  pale-faced  strangers.      The 
Enoli'hman  complied.     They  embarked  together,  and  landed m 
Barbadoes  in  safety,   where,   horrible  to   relate,  the  monster 
Inkle,  breaking  through  every  obligation  of  humanity,  aftection, 
and  gratitude,  immediately  sold  his  deliverer  as  a  slave  !     ihis 
is  but  one  of  many  instances  of  the   cruelty  and  injustice  ot 
our  countrymen  with  which  we  meet  in  the  early  history  ot 
colonization.     The  poor  Caribs  thus  brought  to  the  island  never 
answered  the  purpose  for  which  they  were  imported   but  soon 
wasted  away,  under  the   oppressive  treatment   of  their  cruel 
masters,  not  one  being  left  to  tell  the  tale  of  their  suffermgs 

The  colonists  next  turned  their  attention  to  Africa  ;  and  as 
the  slave  trade  had  then  become  a  regularly  authorized  system 
of   traffic,  the  poor  Negroes  were  brought  by  hundi-eds  and 


280  PART    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

thousands  to  Barbadoes,  and  ultimately  became  far  more 
numerous  than  the  original  settlers. 

This  being  the  oldest  of  the  British  West  India  colonies,  and 
never  having  been  possessed  by  any  other  European  power,  it 
rapidly  advanced  to  a  state  of  unparalleled  prosperity.  As  early 
as  1670,  it  could  boast  of  a  population  of  one  hundred  and 
jifty-seven  thousand,  one-third  of  whom  were  whites,  and  the 
remaining  two-thirds  Negro  slaves.  Considering  the  extent  of 
ground  occupied,  this  is  a  higher  state  of  population  than  can 
be  found  in  Holland,  China,  or  any  other  country  most  famous 
for  numbers.  Such  was  also  the  extent  of  the  commerce  carried 
on  with  England  and  other  countries,  that  constant  employment 
was  given  to  four  hundred  vessels,  averaging  one  hundred  and 
fifty  tons'  burden  each. 

Various  causes  contributed  to  the  gradual  decline,  for  several 
years,  of  the  agricultural  and  commercial  prosperity  with  which 
Barbadoes  was  distinguished  at  this  early  period  of  its  history. 
The  colony  was  much  distracted  by  political  agitation,  in  conse- 
quence of  the  oppressive  taxes  imposed  by  the  Home  Govern- 
ment, and  other  matters  of  alleged  grievance.  When  an 
expedition  was  fitted  out  against  Hispaniola,  under  the  command 
of  Penn  and  Venables,  Barbadoes  furnished  three  thousand  five 
hundred  men  to  aid  in  the  attack.  This  expedition  failed  in  its 
intended  object ;  but  it  resulted  in  the  capture  of  Jamaica  from 
the  Spaniards.  From  that  time  Jamaica  became  a  powerful 
rival  to  Barbadoes,  as  it  attracted  a  large  portion  of  the  atten- 
tion and  capital  of  the  mother  country.  In  addition  to  these 
untoward  circumstances,  this  island  was  repeatedly  called  to 
suft'er  from  the  destroying  elements  of  nature.  In  the  month 
of  August,  1675,  a  dreadful  hurricane  laid  waste  the  whole 
country;  in  1766  a  destructive  fire  reduced  Bridge  Town,  the 
capital,  to  a  heap  of  ruins;  and  in  1780  another  awful  hurri- 
cane passed  over  the  land,  carrying  destruction  and  death  in  its 
mighty  sweep.  In  the  last-named  calamity,  four  thousand  three 
hundred  and  twenty-six  of  the  inhabitants  were  buried  in  the 
ruins,  while  property  was  destroyed  to  the  amount  of  one 
million  and  a  half  sterling. 

In  after  years  the  colony  recovered  in  some  measure  from  the 


CHAP.    III. — THE    ISLAI^D    OF    BAEBADOES.  281 

effects  of  these  sad  disasters ;  but,  from  its  geographical  posi- 
tion, it  is  always  liable  to  the  frequent  occurrence  of  hurricanes, 
a  long  list  of  which  might  be  given  in  addition  to  those  already 
mentioned.  A  part  of  Bridge  Town,  which  had  risen  from  its 
former  ruins,  was  again  destroyed  by  fire  a  few  years  ago ;  so 
that  this  island  has  had  frequent  checks  to  its  advancement,  to 
say  nothing  of  the  exhaustion  of  the  soil,  and  the  frequent 
occurrence  of  drought,  since  the  country  was  cleared  of  its 
virgin  forests.  Notwithstanding  these  adverse  circumstances, 
Barbadoes  will  bear  a  favourable  comparison  with  most  of  the 
other  West  India  colonies,  both  as  it  regards  the  state  of  its 
agricultural  and  commercial  interests,  and  the  moral  and  social 
condition  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  island  of  Barbadoes  is  from  north  to  south  about  twenty- 
two  miles  long,  and  from  east  to  west  fifteen  broad.  It  is 
nearly  surrounded  by  a  coral  reef,  which,  with  the  addition  of 
military  fortifications  in  those  places  which  are  accessible  to 
vessels,  defend  it  from  the  attack  of  an  enemy.  The  general 
aspect  of  the  country  is  of  a  pleasing  character,  and  bears  a 
more  striking  resemblance  to  England  than  any  other  country 
within  the  tropics  that  I  have  visited.  Instead  of  the  bold  and 
romantic  scenery  which  distinguishes  most  of  the  West  India 
Islands,  we  have  in  the  interior  of  Barbadoes  a  gently  undulating 
surface,  presenting  the  agreeable  variety  of  sloping  hills  and 
fertile  valleys.  On  the  windward  coast,  however,  the  scenery  is 
somewhat  different.  Bold  and  rugged  acclivities  rise  from  the 
shore  to  an  elevation  of  about  one  hundred  feet  each,  and  are 
separated  by  terraces  nearly  half  a  mile  in  breadth,  which  are 
highly  cultivated,  and  form  a  beautiful  contrast  to  the  barren 
rocky  precipices  that  intervene.  Since  the  dense  forests  which 
once  covered  the  country  have  disappeared,  wood  has  become  a 
scarce  commodity,  and  it  is  found  necessary  to  import  it  from 
other  islands.  The  quantity  of  rain  which  used  to  fall  annually 
is  consequently  diminished,  to  the  occasional  inconvenience  of 
the  planter.  But  these  drawbacks  are  more  than  compensated, 
as  it  regards  the  health  of  the  inhabitants,  by  the  improvement 
of  the  climate.  The  lands  having  been  laid  open,  the  breeze 
circulates  without  obstruction,  stagnant  vapours  are  prevented, 


283  PAET  II. — THE  WEST  INDIES. 

and  the  air  is  rendered  pure  and  wholesome.  Barbadoes  may 
now  be  regarded  as  favoured  with  one  of  tlie  most  healthy 
climates  for  Europeans  within  the  tropics. 

The  buildings  connected  with  the  respective  estates  are 
generally  good  and  substantial,  being  erected  so  as  to  resist  the 
violence  of  the  storms  which  at  certain  seasons  sweep  across  the 
country.  The  fields  are  laid  out  with  considerable  taste,  and 
are  frequently  interspersed  with  cocoa-nut  and  other  trees, 
presenting  to  the  view  a  prospect  truly  delightful.  The  soil 
varies  considerably  in  different  parts  of  the  island ;  but  it  is 
generally  found  to  be  suitable  for  the  growth  of  sugar  and 
ginger,  which  are  the  staple  articles  of  export,  and  also  for  the 
production  of  the  provisions  and  fruits  which  are  required  for 
home  consumption.  From  the  length  of  time  that  the  land  has 
been  under  constant  cultivation,  its  original  strength  is,  in  a 
measure,  exhausted  ;  and  it  now  requires  particular  management 
and  careful  manuring,  to  produce  good  crops.  By  the  applica- 
tion of  agricultural  skill,  and  the  use  of  ordinary  means,  the 
soil  is,  however,  very  productive ;  and  the  sugar  manufactured 
in  Barbadoes  is  celebrated  for  its  excellent  quality.  Particular 
economy  is  observed  in  tilling  the  ground,  and  almost  every 
acre  and  rood  in  the  island  capable  of  producing  any  thing  is 
brought  under  careful  cultivation. 

It  does  not  come  within  our  province  to  enter  into  the  minutiro 
of  scientific  research;  but  we  have  reason  to  believe  that 
Barbadoes  offers  a  line  field  for  the  investigations  of  the  natural- 
ist. The  summits  of  the  hills  bear  evident  marks  of  a  sub- 
marine origin,  and  numerous  valuable  fossils  have  been  collected. 
In  the  animal  kingdom  there  are  neither  quadrupeds  nor  birds 
worthy  of  particular  notice.  Monkeys  and  racoons  were  for- 
merly very  numerous,  but  they  have  now  totally  disappeared. 
Various  kinds  of  snakes  and  lizards  are  found  in  great  abundance. 
At  first  these  reptiles  are  very  annoying  to  strangers,  as  they 
sometimes  find  their  way  into  the  houses  of  the  inhabitants ;  * 

*  I  remember,  on  one  occasion,  that  a  snake  entered  the  room  in  which 
I  was  sitting,  and  coiled  itself  round  the  neck  of  the  cat,  which  had  been 
quietly  lying  at  my  feet,  hut  which  arose  playfully  to  watch  the  movements 
of  the  reptile.     The  poor  creature  ran  off  with  its  disagreeable  burden. 


CHAP.    III. — THE    ISLAND    OF    BARBADOES.  283 

but  tliey  are  generally  harmless,  and  soon  cease  to  be  objects  of 
terror.  The  polypus  is  found  here  in  great  perfection,  and 
various  kinds  of  fish  are  caught  along  the  shore.  Some  remark- 
able wells  of  tar-water  have  been  discovered  ;  and  a  small  pool 
at  the  bottom  of  a  little  glen  in  Turner's  Hall  Wood  emits  a 
volume  of  inflammable  gas.  These,  with  a  few  other  natural 
curiosities,  are  worthy  of  careful  scientific  examination.  The 
island  is  almost  destitute  of  rivers,  properly  so  called  ;  but  there 
are  several  small  streams  or  rivulets  in  different  parts  of  the 
country,  besides  the  Mole,  which  is  the  principal  one.  A  tole- 
rable supply  of  water  is  also  obtained  from  numerous  spring- 
wells,  and  from  reservoirs  which  are  filled  during  the  rainy 
season. 

Bridge  Town,  the  capital  of  the  colony,  is  an  extensive  city, 
with  a  population  of  upwards  of  twenty  thousand.  It  is  erected 
chiefiy  of  stone,  and  contains  some  handsome  buildings ;  but 
the  streets  are  too  narrow,  and  the  houses  are  formed  too  much 
after  the  English  style,  and  too  closely  crowded  together,  to  be 
conducive  to  health  and  comfort  in  a  tropical  climate.  Many 
of  the  merchants  have  commodious  country  villa  residences,  at 
a  convenient  distance  from  the  town,  with  gardens  and  pleasure- 
grounds  beautifully  laid  out.  The  residence  of  His  Excellency 
the  Governor,  called  "Pilgram,"  about  a  mile  from  Bridge 
Town,  is  a  splendid  mansion ;  and  St.  James's  Barracks,  about 
the  same  distance  in  another  direction,  are  commodious  and 
elegant  buildings.  Eonta  Belle  and  Hastings  are  suburban 
villages  and  fashionable  watering-places,  possessing  every  con- 
venience for  sea-bathing,  as  well  as  many  cool  airy  residences. 
Speight's  Town,  Hole  Town,  Oistin  Town,  and  Bath,  can  only 
be  regarded  as  villages,  notwithstanding  their  high-sounding 
names,  and  the  undoubted  increase  of  the  population  of  most  of 
them  since  emancipation. 

climbed  to  the  roof  of  the  house,  aud,  after  running  about  in  a  v>ild  and 
frantic  state  for  some  time,  plunged  into  a  perpendicular  water-gpout.  For- 
tunately for  the  poor  cat,  the  spout  was  too  narrow  to  admit  of  its  descend- 
ing far.  By  means  of  a  ladder  I  succeeded  in  extracting  it  from  this  perilous 
position,  and  in  releasing  it  from  the  grasp  of  the  reptile  which  had  caused 
its  fright,  before  it  was  entirely  strangled. 


284  PART   II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

In  tlie  parish  of  St.  John,  about  twelve  miles  from  the 
metropolis,  there  is  a  college,  endowed  with  a  large  estate  j 
formerly  producing  £3,000  per  annum.  This  was  the  gift  of  a 
Mr.  Codrington,  whose  name  the  institution  bears.  It  is 
situated  in  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  yalley ;  and  when 
beheld  from  the  neighbouring  hills,  presents  a  pleasing  object 
to  the  eye,  and  gives  eflect  to  the  surrounding  scenery.  A 
proper  application  of  this  munificent  donation  might  be  made  a 
great  blessing  to  the  island,  by  affording  a  superior  religious, 
classical,  and  commercial  education  to  the  youth  of  the  country 
generally ;  but,  like  many  other  excellent  charities,  it  appears 
to  be  diverted  somewhat  from  its  original  purpose ;  and  is, 
at  present,  accessible  only  to  a  very  limited  number  of  students, 
who  are  designed  for  the  clerical  profession. 

The  population  of  the  whole  island,  according  to  the  last 
census,  amounted  to  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand ;  includ- 
ing whites,  blacks,  and  a  large  and  respectable  class  of  coloured 
persons.  Towards  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century,  all 
ranks  of  the  community  are  represented  as  being  in  a  fearful 
state  of  spiritual  destitution.  The  island  had  been  divided 
into  eleven  parishes,  it  is  true ;  but  in  most  cases  they  were 
parishes  without  priests  ;  and  such  was  the  character  of  the 
few  who  did  fill  the  sacred  office  in  the  national  establishment, 
that  the  whole  country  might  be  regarded  as  almost  entirely 
destitute  of  the  saving  light  of  the  Gospel. 

At  an  early  period,  a  few  pious  Quakers,  who  had  settled  in 
the  island,  being  influenced  by  feelings  of  pity  and  com- 
passion for  their  fellow  men,  began  to  teach  a  few  Negro  slaves 
a  knowledge  of  the  Gospel.  This  humble  effort  to  do  good 
met  with  decided  opposition  from  the  ruling  powers  and  the 
resident   clergy ;  *    and    a   law   was   passed,   prohibiting   the 

*  The  following  extract  from  a  high  authority  among  the  "  Society  of 
Priends  "  presents  a  gloomy  picture  of  the  moral  state  of  the  community 
at  this  early  period,  and  exhibits  the  spirit  of  persecution  that  prevailed 
among  certain  parties  in  the  colony.  "In  the  island  of  Barbadoes,  those 
called  Quakers  suffered  also  much  by  the  people,  instigated  not  a  little  by 
the  Priests,  Samuel  Graves,  Matthew  Gi-ay,  Thomas  Manwaring,  and 
Francis  Smith ;  for  these  being  often  drunk,  gave  occasion  thereby  to  be 


CHAP.    III. — THE    ISLAND    OF    BARBADOES.  285 

Negroes  from  attendin^^  any  meeting-house  whatever.  The 
same  act  contained  a  clause,  which  forbade  Dissenters  to  instruct 
their  pupils,  or  to  keep  schools  in  the  island.  The  humble  and 
unassuming  class  of  religionists,  against  whom  this  persecuting 
measure  was  chiefly  directed,  have  since  disappeared  from  the 
colony ;  and  the  spot  of  ground  on  which  their  "  meeting- 
house "  once  stood,  is  pointed  out  as  a  relic  of  past  history. 

In  the  year  1765,  two  Moravian  Missionaries  were  sent  to 
Barbadoes ;  one  of  whom  died  soon  after  his  arrival,  and  the 
other,  seduced  by  the  love  of  the  world,  abandoned  the  Mission, 
and  settled  as  a  mercliant ;  whilst  a  third,  who  was  sent  to  fill 
the  place  of  the  first,  soon  followed  hitu  to  the  silent  tomb. 
About  two  years  afterwards,  Mr.  Bruckshaw  arrived,  and  was 
joined  by  Mr.  Bennett  from  America,  and  others.  For  some 
time  their  united  labours  were  crowned  with  success  ;  but  on 
the  death  of  Mr.  Bennett  in  1771,  and  the  removal  of  Mr. 
Bruckshaw  to  Antigua,  the  Mission  began  to  decline,  and 
continued  in  a  languishing  state  for  several  years.  After 
passing  throui^h  various  vicissitudes,  a  measure  of  prosperity 
was  again  realized  :  and  of  late  years  the  "  Brethren  "  have 
been  pursuing  their  useful  labours  with  some  degree  of  encou- 
ragement ;  the  number  of  converts  having  considerably  increased. 
The  respective  stations  of  the  Moravians  in  Barbadoes  are 
Bridge  Town,  Sharon,  and  Mount  Tabor. 

On  the  4th  of  December,  1788,  Dr.  Coke  arrived  in 
Barbadoes,  with  the  Eev.  B.  Pearce,  a  Wesleyan  Missionary, 
who  had   been  appointed   to   labour  in  the   island.     In  this 

reproved.  And  one  Thomas  Clark,  coming  once  into  the  place  of  public 
worship,  and  exliorting  the  audience  to  desist  from  lewdness,  and  to  fear 
God,  was  so  grievously  beateu  with  sticks  that  he  fell  into  a  swoon ;  aod 
Graves,  who  preached  then,  went  to  the  house  of  the  said  Clark,  pulled  his 
wife  out  of  doors,  and  tore  her  clothes  from  her  back.  And  Manwaring, 
who  had  threatened  Clark  that  he  would  procure  a  law  to  be  made,  by  which 
his  ears  should  be  cut  off,  once  wrote  to  him  thus  :  '  I  am  sorry  that  your 
zeal  surpasseth  your  moderation,  and  that  a  club  must  beat  you  out  of  what 
the  devil  hath  inspired.'  And  this  was  because  Clark  had  told  him  that  his 
conversation  was  not  becoming  a  Minister  of  the  Gospel.  Other  rough 
treatment  Clark  met  with  I  pass  by,  though  once  he  was  set  in  the  stocks 
and  imprisoned." — Sewell's  "  History  of  the  Quakers." 


286  PART    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

instance,  as  in  many  others,  the  way  had  been  prepared  by  a 
kind  and  gracious  Providence.  A  few  pious  soldiers  had 
previously  arrived  from  Ireland,  and  were  patronized  in  their 
efforts  to  do  good  by  Mr.  Button,  a  merchant  who  generously 
allowed  them  the  use  of  a  large  warehouse  in  which  to  hold 
their  meetings.  These  zealous  sons  of  "  green  Erin  "  received 
the  Missionaries  with  feelings  of  the  liveliest  joy,  having  been 
personally  acquainted  wdth  Mr.  Pearce  before  they  embarked  for 
the  West  Indies.  On  the  following  evening,  Dr.  Coke  preached 
in  the  soldiers'  humble  house  of  prayer  to  an  overflowing 
congregation.  The  zealous  Doctor  soon  took  his  departure 
for  St.  Vincent's,  and  Mr.  Pearce  pursued  his  missionary 
labours  for  some  time,  with  pleasing  prospects  of  success,  in 
the  various  openings  which  presented  themselves,  both  in  town 
and  country. 

x\bout  two  years  afterwards,  Dr.  Coke  again  visited  Barba- 
does,  when  he  found  that  a  spirit  of  persecution  had  been 
awakened,  and  that  the  public  worship  of  God,  as  conducted 
by  the  Missionary,  had  been  frequently  disturbed  by  the  mob, 
and  his  dwelling-house  assailed  by  the  ribald  multitude.  Those 
who  had  joined  the  Methodist  Society,  received  by  Avay  of 
reproacli  the  name  of  "  Hallelnjah."  Even  the  little  Negroes 
had  learned  the  appellation,  and  would  call  them  by  that  name, 
as  they  passed  along  the  streets.  Notwithstanding  the  perse- 
cution which  had  raged,  a  chapel  had  been  erected,  that  would 
contain  about  seven  hundred  persons ;  but  the  success  realized 
in  the  actual  conversion  of  sinners  to  God  was  not  to  be  com- 
pared with  that  of  many  of  the  other  West  India  Islands, 
where  the  Missionaries  had  commenced  their  labours ;  neither 
was  it  considered  by  any  means  commensurate  with  the  labour 
which  had  been  bestowed  upon  the  station.  The  few  who 
were  united  in  church  fellowship  were,  nevertheless,  truly  pious, 
and  devoted  to  God ;  and  the  Missionaries  were  encouraged  to 
persevere  in  their  work  of  faith  and  labour  of  love. 

On  the  26th  of  November,  1791,  the  Eev.  John  Kingston 
arrived  from  England,  to  labour  in  Barbadoes,  in  conjunction 
Avith  the  Eev.  Matthew  Lunib,  who  had  succeeded  Mr.  Pearce. 
Being  encouraged  by  a  few  friendly  planters  in  the  country,  the 


CHAP.    III. — THE    ISLAND    OF    BAUBADOES.  287 

Missionaries  gladly  embraced  the  opportunity  of  extending  their 
labours  to  the  slaves  on  several  estates  in  the  rural  districts ; 
but  still  they  had  to  complain  that  the  results  were  not  accord- 
ing to  their  expectations.  On  the  12th  of  December,  3  792, 
the  Eev.  A.  Bishop  arrived  from  America,  and  the  following 
month  Mr.  Kingston  removed  to  Xevis.  In  the  month  of 
August,  1793,  the  Rev.  Daniel  Graham,  who  had  come  to 
strengthen  the  Mission,  died  of  yellow  fever ;  and  a  few  days 
afterwards  intelligence  was  received  of  the  death  of  Mr.  Pearce, 
•of  the  same  fatal  malady,  on  board  a  ship,  on  his  way  to 
Earbadoes,  from  Grenada,  where  he  had  been  on  a  missionary 
visit.  After  the  removal  of  the  Rev.  James  Alexander,  in 
1798,  the  island  remained  without  a  Missionary  for  a  whole 
year. 

Thus  was  this  infant  station  tried  in  various- ways,  so  that 
on  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Bradnack  in  1804,  he  was  constrained 
to  give  a  very  gloomy  and  discouraging  account  of  the  state 
of  the  work.  A  further  bereavement  was  experienced  in  1807, 
by  the  sudden  death  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Robinson,  the  only 
Missionary  in  the  island ;  so  that  the  people  were  once  more 
left  as  "  sheep  having  no  shepherd."  While  the  station  was 
thus  deprived  of  the  labours  of  a  regular  ^linister,  the  few 
members  of  the  Society  were  kept  together,  and  Divine  worsliip 
was  conducted  by  Mr.  Beck,  an  old  disciple  of  blessed  memory. 
He  was  occasionally  assisted  in  his  humble  efforts  to  do  good 
by  Mr.  Chapman,  of  St.  George's,  (at  whose  house  Mr.  Robin- 
son died,)  and  by  Mr.  Brown  of  Christchurch,  another  devoted 
Christian  of  those  times.  During  the  years  which  intervened, 
the  station  was  sometimes  occupied  by  a  Missionary,  and 
sometimes  vacant,  just  as  the  necessities  of  other  islands 
presented  stronger  claims :  it  is  not  therefore  matter  of  surprise 
that  so  little  impression  was  made  upon  the  minds  of  the 
people  by  the  occasional  preaching  of  the  Gospel.  At  short 
intervals  a  spirit  of  bitter  persecution  manifested  itself,  being 
occasionally  checked  by  the  interference  of  the  Magistrates,  and 
then  again  bursting  out  with  increased  violence. 

In  the  year  1811  a  very  gloomy  account  was  given,  in  the 
Society's  records,  of  the  state  and  prospects  of  the  Barbadoes 


2SS  PART  II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

Mission.  Only  thirty  persons  were  reported  as  church  mem- 
bers, eleven  of  whom  were  whites,  thirteen  were  free  persons  of 
colour,  and  six  were  slaves.  This  period  of  the  station's  his- 
tory was  indeed  a  "night  of  toil ;"  but  the  devoted  men  who 
then  laboured  in  the  island,  were  sustained  under  their  discou- 
ragements by  the  conscientious  conviction  that  they  were  dis- 
charging a  solemn  duty,  the  result  of  which  must  be  left  to 
Him  at  whose  command  they  had  entered  upon  their  work. 

Early  in  1816  new  ditficulties  were  experienced.  An  insur- 
rection broke  out  among  the  Negroes  on  several  plantations ; 
and  although  it  was  soon  put  down  by  military  force,  it  afforded 
the  enemies  of  the  Gospel  a  pretext  for  renewing  their  hostility 
to  the  labours  of  the  Missionaries.  All  the  evils  of  the  rebellion 
were  charged  on  the  Mission ;  a  charge  which  was  perfectly 
preposterous,  seeing  that  out  of  a  population  of  upwards  of 
seventy  thousand  slaves,  not  more  than  thirty-six  were  members 
of  the  Wesleyan  Society.  A  committee  was  appointed  by  the 
House  of  Assembly  to  inquire  into  the  matter.  The  mischief 
was  ascribed  in  its  report  to  other  causes,  and  the  Missionaries 
and  their  people  were  thereby  cleared  from  blame.  Notwith- 
standing this  circumstance,  the  opposition  was  so  strong,  aurt 
the  difficulties  were  so  numerous,  that  the  station  was  again 
left  for  some  time  without  a  supply  of  Missionaries. 

The  Mission  was  recommenced  in  ISIS,  under  circumstances 
which  clearly  mark  the  interposition  of  Divine  Providence.  One 
morning  while  the  people  were  assembled  in  their  five  o'clock 
prayer-meeting,  and  Mr.  Beck  was  beseeching  the  Lord  to  re- 
member them  in  mercy  and  send  them  a  Pastor,  a  sailor  entered 
the  chapel,  and  announced  the  arrival  of  a  Missionary  !  This 
pleasing  intelligence  animated  ever\-  heart  with  joy  ;  and  before 
they  separated,  the  Eev.  Moses  Eayner  made  his  appearance 
among  them.  In  the  course  of  the  follo^^•ing  year,  the  spirit  of 
persecution  having  in  some  degree  abated,  and  the  work  having 
assumed  a  more  encouraging  aspect,  a  new  and  commodious 
chapel  was  erected,  towards  which  several  of  the  principal 
inhabitants  subscribed  liberally. 

It  was  now  considered  desirable  once  more  to  appoint  a  second 
^lissionan^  to  this  station,  that  it  misrht  have  a  fair  trial  under 


CHAP.  III. — TEE   ISLAND    OF    BAEBADOES.  2S9 

the  improved  tone  of  public  feeling  towards  the  enterprise.  In 
1820  the  Eev.  W.  J.  Shrewsbniy  and  the  Eev.  W.  Lareom  were 

on  the  ground ;  and  in  a  united  communication  addressed  to  the 
General  Secretaries  of  the  Missionary  Committee,  they  wrote  as 
follo»vs  :  "  Our  prospects  at  present  cannot  be  deemed  flat ferin^y 
but  they  are  certainly  brigJdening,  as  there  is  more  likelihood  of 
prosperity  than  was  ever  previously  known  in  Barbadoes.  On 
Sunday  mornings  our  chapel  is  thronged,  and  multitudes  crowd 
about  the  door,  to  squeeze  in  when  there  is  the  least  opening. 
Besides  our  labours  in  Bridge  Town,  we  have  three  estates  in 
the  country  where  we  preach  once  a  fortnight.  The  proprietors 
(one  of  whom  is  a  Member  of  the  House  of  Assembly)  are  firm 
friends  to  the  Missionaries,  and  have  promised  to  use  all  their 
influence  with  other  gentlemen  of  the  colony,  to  induce  them  to 
permit  us  to  instruct  their  Negroes."  Other  accounts  still  more 
encouraging  succeeded  this,  reporting  the  accession  of  a  consider- 
able number  of  members  to  the  Church,  as  well  as  the  formation 
of  an  "  Auxiliary  Missionary  Society  "  for  the  island,  which 
was  expected  to  produce  not  less  than  fifty  pounds  sterling  per 
annum,  to  aid  in  the  spread  of  the  Gospel. 

This  prosperous  and  promising  state  of  things  was,  however, 
but  of  sliort  duration.  A  fearful  storm  of  persecution  was 
gathering,  and  ere  long  it  burst  upon  the  head  of  the  poor  Mis- 
sionary with  awful  yiolence.  Mr.  Shrewsbury,  who  by  this 
time  had  been  left  alone  on  the  station,  was  abused  by  the 
public  press,  openly  insulted  in  the  streets,  and  repeatedly  inter- 
rupted whilst  engaged  in  conducting  the  public  worship  of  God. 
On  the  5th  of  October,  1822,  the  congregation  was  not  only 
molested,  but  the  chapel  was  assailed  with  showers  of  stones 
and  other  offensive  weapons ;  and  so  strong  was  public  feeling 
in  favour  of  the  delinquents,  that  no  hope  of  obtaining  redress 
could  be  entertained.  On  the  following  Sabbath  the  assault 
was  renewed  with  still  greater  -violence  ;  and  in  the  midst  of  the 
general  tumult,  the  ^lissionary  preached  with  enlargement  of 
heart  from  1  Cor.  i.  22,  2-4,  and  thus  closed  his  ministry  in 
Barbadoes,  as  it  proved  to  be  his  last  opportunity  of  preaching 
to  the  people.  On  the  l-9th  there  was  no  service  in  the  chapeJ, 
in  consequence  of  the  Governor's  declared  inability  to  protect 

u 


290  PART    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

the  persecuted  Missionary  in  the  discharge  of  his  duty ;  and  a 
multitude  of  persons,  previously  organized  for  the  purpose,  were 
suffered  completely  to  demolish  the  building,  without  the  least 
attempt  being  made  to  check  them,  either  by  the  civil  or  mili- 
tary authorities. 

During  these  disgraceful  proceedings,  Mr.  Shrewsbury  and 
his  wife  were  exposed  to  the  most  imminent  personal  danger ; 
but  they  providentially  escaped  on  board  a  small  vessel  then  in 
the  harbour,  and  sailed  for  St.  Vincent's.  When  the  mischief 
was  done,  the  Governor  of  Barbadoes  seemed  to  awake  to  a 
sense  of  his  responsible  position,  and  issued  a  proclamation 
offering  a  reward  of  £100  for  the  conviction  of  the  offenders. 
Such  was  the  unparalleled  effrontery  of  the  rioters,  that  they  im- 
mediately printed  and  circulated  a  counter  proclamation,  threat- 
ening that  any  person  who  came  forward  to  impeach  one  of 
them  should  receive  merited  punishment ;  stating  that  no  con- 
viction could  be  obtained  so  long  as  the  parties  were  true  to 
themselves  ;  and  declaring  that  the  chapel  was  destroyed,  not  by 
the  rabble  of  the  community,  but  by  (jentlemen  of  the  frst 
respectahilitij  ! 

The  alleged  cause  of  the  daring  outrage,  in  which  the  spirit 
of  persecution  in  Barbadoes  finally  culminated,  was  a  certain 
letter,  which  the  Missionary  had  written  home  to  the  Committee 
soon  after  his  arrival  in  the  island,  setting  forth  the  fearfully 
demoralized  state  of  the  colonists,  and  the  need  which  existed 
of  a  faithful  Gospel  ISIinistry  ;  but  the  real  cause  was  the  despe- 
rate wickedness  of  the  human  heart,  and  the  fact  that  the 
success  of  the  Mission  was  likely  to  interfere  with  the  worldly 
pleasures  and  sensual  gratifications  in  which  the  people  were  so 
prone  to  indulge. 

After  the  departure  of  the  Missionary  the  members  of  the 
Society  continued  to  meet  together  in  the  dwelling-house  of 
Mrs.  Gill,  a  pious  widow  lady  of  colour,  who  still  lives, — a 
"  mother  in  Israel."  While  assembled  in  their  little  meetings, 
they  were  often  threatened  with  renewed  acts  of  violence ;  and 
Mrs.  Gill  was  twice  cited  to  appear  before  the  Court  of  Grand 
Sessions,  to  answer  for  holding  what  were  alleged  to  be  illegal 
meetings  in  her  house  ;  but  the  Lord  delivered  them  from  the 


CHAP.    III. — THE    ISLAND    OF    BAEBADOES.  291 

wrath  of  their  enemies,  and  these  poor  persecuted  disciples  of 
Jesus  calmly  awaited  the  returu  of  brighter  and  more  peaceful 
■days. 

When  the  conduct  of  the  colonists  was  brought  before  the 
British  Parliament,  it  called  forth  a  warm  and  indignant 
condemnation  of  the  disgraceful  outrage;  but  nothing  was 
effectually  done,  either  for  the  future  protection  of  the  Mission- 
aries, or  the  conviction  of  the  offenders.  The  latter,  however, 
though  they  evaded  the  law  of  man,  did  not  escape  the  justice 
of  God ;  for  it  is  a  notorious  fact  that  the  men  who  took  the 
most  prominent  part  in  the  destruction  of  the  Wesleyan 
chapel  in  Barbadoes,  gradually  withered  under  the  blast  of 
His  displeasure.  Tliese  opponents  to  the  Gospel  not  only 
experienced  remarkable  reverses  in  their  temporal  affairs,  but 
most  of  them  were  brought  to  a  premature  end,  and  died  in 
the  dark,  under  circumstances  truly  admonitory  to  the  careless 
and  the  wicked.  "  Verily  there  is  a  God  that  jidgetU  in 
the  earth  r 

The  friends  of  the  Society  in  England  having  contributed 
liberally  towards  the  rebuilding  of  the  chapel,  the  re-establish- 
ment of  the  Mission  was  once  more  confided  to  the  Eev. 
Moses  Eayner.  He  arrived  in  Carlisle  Bay  in  1825  ;  but,  after 
a  lengthened  correspondence  with  the  Governor,  important 
considerations  prevented  his  landing  at  that  time,  and  he 
returned  to  St.  Vincent's.  In  the  course  of  the  following  year, 
however,  when  public  excitement  had  in  a  measure  subsided, 
]\Ii'.  Kayner  made  another  attempt  to  fulfil  the  important  trust 
confided  to  him  by  the  IMissionary  Committee  in  London. 
This  time  he  succeeded.  The  chapel  and  Mission-House  in 
James  Street  were  rebuilt ;  and  as  the  Government  authorities 
now  seemed  willing  to  extend  the  protection  of  the  law  to  the 
-despised  followers  of  the  Saviour,  the  public  worship  of  God 
was  again  celebrated,  under  circumstances  which  afforded  some 
liope  of  ultimate  success. 

Few  places  made  a  more  determined  resistance  to  the  Gospel 

at  an  early  period  of  the  Mission  than  Barbadoes,   and  few 

places  have  been  more  signally  visited  with  the  awful  judgments 

of    the   Almighty.      The   persecution   had    scarcely   subsided? 

u  2 


29.2  PART   II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

wlien,  in  1831,  the  island  was  visited  with  a  most  terrifie 
hurricane ;  the  effects  of  which  were  appalling  to  contemplate. 
In  this  fearful  catastrophe,  two  thousand  five  hundred  human 
beings  miserably  perished ;  and  property  was  destroyed,  to  the 
amount  of  two  millions  and  a  half  sterling.  This  signal 
visitation  seriously  affected  the  progress  of  the  Mission.  The 
Mission-House  and  chapel  at  Providence  were  laid  in 
ruins ;  while  several  of  the  members  of  society  suffered  the 
loss  of  all  things,  and  were  unable,  as  formerly,  to  contribute 
to  the  support  of  the  cause  of  God,  which  was  still  dear  to 
their  hearts. 

On  my  arrival  in  Barbadoes,  in  1835,  the  Mission  was  just 
recovering  from  the  effects  of  tlie  storm  which  had  desolated 
the  island  a  few  years  before ;  and  the  spirit  of  persecution 
which  had  prevailed  so  long,  was  considerably  abated.  The 
circumstances,  therefore,  under  which  I  entered  upon  my  new 
sphere  of  labour,  as  compared  with  those  of  my  revered 
predecessors,  were  very  auspicious.  All  was  peace  and  harmony 
in  the  church  itself,  and  there  were  no  indications  of  opposition 
from  without.  The  congregations  in  town  were  large  and 
attentive,  and  the  blessmg  of  God  appeared  to  accompany  the 
labours  of  His  servants.  The  number  of  persons  united  with 
us  in  church-fellowship  at  that  time  throughout  the  island  was- 
five  hundred  and  eighty-seven. 

Being  appointed  to  reside  at  Providence,  a  country  station, 
I  had  ample  opportunities  of  becoming  more  intimately  ac- 
quainted with  the  Negro  character  in  the  land  of  their  exile,  and 
of  observing  the  conduct  of  the  people  in  their  transition  from 
slavery  to  freedom.  I  found  the  cause  of  religion  very  low  at 
many  of  the  country  places ;  but  it  pleased  the  great  Head  of 
the  church  to  bless  th?  means  employed  for  the  revival  of  the 
the  work  of  God,  and  we  were  permitted  to  see  considerable 
improvement.  The  congregations,  both  on  the  Sabbath  and 
week-nights,  began  to  assume  a  more  encouraging  aspect ;  and 
several  who  had  made  a  profession  of  religion  were  quickened 
in  the  service  of  the  Lord ;  whilst  a  goodly  number  who  had 
hitherto  lived  in  ignorance  and  sin  became  savingly  converted 
to  God,  and  united  themselves  in  church-fellowship  with  us. 


CHAP.    III. — THE    ISLAND    OF    BAEBADOES.  293 

We  had  an  increase,  during  the  first  year,  of  fifty  clmrcli- 
members,  and  one  liundred  scliolars.  Nearly  every  night  in 
the  week  I  was  employed  in  preaching  on  the  surrounding 
estates ;  and  the  people  in  general  seemed  willing  to  hear  the 
Gospel.  Bath,  Woodlands,  Pilgrim  Place,  and  Sealeys,  were 
regularly  visited ;  and,  wishing  to  break  up  new  ground,  I  soon 
obtained  an  entrance  to  promising  places  in  St.  George's  and 
St.  Philip's, — parishes  which  had  not  previously  been  favoured 
with  the  labours  of  a  Missionary. 

During  the  time  of  slavery,  but  little  could  be  done,  in  a 
systematic  way,  for  the  education  of  the  rising  generation. 
Sabbath  schools  were  established  in  some  places,  but  they 
frequently  met  with  opposition ;  and  I  have  known  a  pious 
female  severely  persecuted  for  attempting  to  teach  a  few  chil- 
dren the  Lord's  prayer.  But  as  freedom  was  now  dawning 
upon  the  country,  we  felt  ourselves  called  upon  to  make 
renewed  efforts  to  promote  the  religious  instruction  of  all 
classes.  On  the  1st  of  August,  1834,  all  Negro  children, 
under  seven  years  of  age,  were  declared  free  by  the  Emancipa- 
tion Act.  Over  these,  therefore,  with  the  concurrence  of  the 
parents,  we  could  claim  entire  control.  We  immediately 
commenced  teaching  such  of  these  as  resided  near  our  station, 
for  a  few  hours  every  day;  and  we  soon  had  a  prosperous 
infant  school.  This  Mrs.  Moister  taught  herself,  till  it  became 
so  large  that  assistance  was  absolutely  necessary,  when  she 
secured  the  services  of  an  intelligent  young  coloured  person. 
It  was  a  most  interesting  sight  to  look  upon  sixty  or  seventy 
little  black  children,  nearly  all  of  the  same  age,  learning  to 
read  the  Scriptures  ;  and  it  was  truly  delightful  to  hear  their 
infant  voices  lisping  the  praises  of  Jehovah. 

The  adults  also  manifested  an  anxious  desire  to  leara  to  read 
the  word  of  God.  My  dear  wife,  therefore,  commenced  a  night 
school  for  the  instruction  of  young  persons  who  were  engaged 
in  agricultural  labours  during  the  day;  and  while  I  was 
engaged  in  preaching  at  remote  places,  she  had  the  Mission- 
House  frequently  filled  with  young  people  from  the  neighbour- 
ing estates.  Their  exercises  were  sometimes  scarcely  finished 
when  I  reached  home ;  and  as  I  approached  the  house,  the 


294  PAET   II. — THE    AVEST   INDIES. 

sound  of  their  voices,  as  they  were  plying  their  lessons,  reciting 
their  catechisms,  or  singing  the  evening  hyran,  was  as  sweet 
music  in  ray  ears.  These  were  happy  days  of  humble  toil; 
and  I  can  truly  say,  "  How  sweet  their  memory  still !  "  It  is, 
moreover,  a  pleasing  fact,  that  our  labour  was  not  in  vain  in 
the  Lord.  Some  were  induced  to  give  their  hearts  to  God  in 
the  morning  of  life,  and  to  join  themselves  to  His  people; 
while  several  derived  both  secular  and  spiritual  benefit  from  the 
instructions  which  they  received.  While  labouring  in  another 
island,  many  years  afterwards,  a  respectable-looking  young  man 
called  at  the  Mission-House,  and  accosted  Mrs.  Moister  in  a 
pleasing  and  familiar  manner.  She  said,  "  I  have  not  the 
pleasure  of  knowing  you."  *'  Don't  you  know  me.  Ma'am  ?  '* 
said  he :  "I  am  little  Tommy  Saycr,  whom  you  taught  to  read 
in  the  night  school  at  Barbadoes."  He  had  improved  the 
little  which  he  had  learned,  and  was  now  become  a  merchant 
on  a  small  scale,  having  opened  a  store  on  his  own  account. 

In  the  midst  of  the  moral  darkness  in  Avhich  the  island  of 
Barbadoes  was  so  long  involved.  Divine  Providence  raised  up  a 
firm  friend  to  the  Mission  cause  in  the  person  of  William  Eeece, 
Esq.,  an  intelligent  and  respectable  planter,  owning  two  large 
estates  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  our  residence.  Having 
been  made  a  personal  partaker  of  the  saving  grace  of  God, 
through  the  instrumentality  of  the  Missionaries,  he  felt  a  deep 
interest  in  the  spiritual  welfare  of  his  own  people,  and  of  those 
on  the  surrounding  plantations.  "  Pilgrim  Place,"  where  he 
resided,  was  always  a  welcome  and  hospitable  home  for  the 
Ministers  of  the  Gospel,  even  in  times  of  persecution ;  and  with 
a  view  to  make  permanent  provision  for  the  instruction  of  the 
labouring  population,  he  erected  a  neat  little  chapel  and  a 
Minister's  residence,  chiefly  at  his  own  expense,  on  a  convenient 
piece  of  land,  which  he  appropriated  for  the  pui-pose.  These 
buildings  were  duly  conveyed  to  the  Connexion,  and  they  still 
stand  as  pleasing  monuments  of  his  Christian  zeal  and  benevo- 
lence. Frequently  have  I  seen  the  countenance  of  the  good 
man  lighted  up  with  a  radiant  smile,  as  he  sat  in  his  family  pew, 
when  the  chapel  was  filled  with  Negroes ;  but  if  on  any  occa- 
sion the  attendance  Avas  small,  he  appeared  anxious  and  sorrowful. 


CHAP.  III. — THE    ISLAND    OF    BAIlBADoES.  295 

Soon  after  our  arrival  in  Barbadoes,  our  friend  Mr.  Eeece 
was  removed  from  this  world  by  a  mysterious  dispensation  of 
Divine  Providence.  He  went  to  England  on  a  visit ;  and  dur- 
ing liis  absence,  his  letters  to  his  family  not  only  breathed  the 
spirit  of  affection  for  which  he  was  so  remarkable,  but  they  were 
richly  stored  with  religious  sentiment,  and  gave  pleasing  evi- 
dence of  his  advancement  in  the  Divine  life.  On  his  return 
home,  the  vessel  in  which  he  sailed  sprang  a  leak,  and  was 
obliged  to  put  back  to  land.  On  embarking  a  second  time,  j\Ir. 
Eeece  found  himself  unwell,  having  taken  a  severe  cold.  The 
sickness  increased,  and,  after  lingering  for  a  few  days,  he  died 
at  sea,  in  full  reliance  on  the  mercy  of  God  in  Christ  Jesus,  in 
the  month  of  November,  1835,  attended  by  his  favourite  little 
black  boy  "  James,"  who  had  accompanied  him  to  Europe. 

AVhen  the  vessel  by  which  Mr.  Eeece  was  expected  arrived  in 
Carlisle  Bay,  several  of  his  friends  hastened  to  town  to  receive 
him  J  but  Mrs.  Eeece,  being  exceedingly  anxious,  requested  me 
to  drive  over  to  tlie  "  Hope "  estate,  the  residence  of  his 
brother,  to  meet  him.  I  did  so,  but  soon  returned  without 
him,  and  had  to  perform  the  melancholy  duty  of  divulging  to 
his  family  the  mournful  tidings  of  his  death.  This  was  a  severe 
stroke  to  his  bereaved  widow,  his  brother,  and  sisters,  and  to 
many  dear  friends  to  whom  he  was  united  by  the  strongest  ties 
of  affection.  The  scene  which  followed  may  be  more  easily 
imagined  than  described.  Nothing  was  to  be  heard  but 
mourning,  lamentation,  and  woe,  especially  among  his  own 
people,  by  whom  he  was  much  beloved.  On  the  following  Sab- 
bath I  preached  his  funeral  sermon  to  a  crowded  and  deeply 
affected  audience,  who  appeared  in  mourning,  in  token  of  respect 
for  the  deceased.  When  I\Ir.  Eeece's  will  was  opened,  it  was 
found  that  after  making  ample  provision  for  his  family,  he  had 
bequeathed  to  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society,  at  the  death  of 
his  widow,  one  half  of  the  entire  proceeds  of  his  two  estates,  in 
perpetuity,  as  well  as  half  an  acre  of  land,  and  a  small  cottao^e, 
to  each  of  the  Negroes  who  had  been  his  slaves,  as  he  kindly 
said  in  the  will,  "  in  memory  of  their  working  days  together." 
I  immediately  forwarded  to  the  Committee  a  copy  of  Mr.  Eeece's 
will,  with  the  Attorney-General's  opinion  as  to  its  validity,  not- 


296  PART  II. — THE   WEST  INDIES. 

withstanding  some  informality  in  the  phraseology  employed ; 
and  the  business  was  put  in  a  satisfactory  train  for  the  future. 

During  her  lifetime,  Mrs.  Reece  was  unvarying  in  her  friend- 
ship and  kindness  to  the  Missionaries  and  their  families ;  but 
having  been  called  away  by  death  several  years  ago,  the  Society 
has  had  the  full  benefit  of  Mr.  Keece's  princely  bequest,  and  it 
has  largely  contributed  to  the  extension  and  consolidation  of 
the  Mission  work  throughout  the  island. 

Before  the  close  of  our  first  year  in  Barbadoes,  we  were  called 
to  witness  one  of  those  violent  hurricanes  for  which  this  island 
is  so  remarkable ;  but,  occurring  in  the  daytime,  it  was  not  at- 
tended with  such  fatal  consequences  as  some  of  former  years. 
It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  3rd  of  September  that  we  observed 
the  wind  blew  fresh  from  the  east,  and  the  clouds  gathered  in 
dense  masses  towards  the  north,  with  frequent  gusts,  which  in- 
creased in  violence  about  ten  o'clock,  a.m.,  and  excited  our 
apprehensions  that  a  storm  was  gathering.  In  order  to  secure, 
if  possible,  the  house  and  the  chapel,  we  made  fast  the  doors 
and  the  windows,  and  used  every  other  necessary  precaution. 
We  now  saw  that  a  hurricane  was  regularly  set  in.  The  wind 
was  furious  beyond  expression,  and  the  rain  fell  in  torrents. 
Through  the  gloom  we  saw  in  the  distance  several  small  houses 
blown  down  ;  and  the  poor  people  tied  to  the  Mission-House  for 
shelter,  terror  and  dismay  being  seen  in  every  countenance. 
Providence  Chapel  and  Mission-House  being  in  an  elevated 
situation,  we  began  to  fear  for  their  safety.  Our  alarm  was 
soon  increased,  by  observing  the  roof  of  the  stable  and  other 
out-buildings  completely  lifted  up,  and  removed  out  of  their 
place,  by  the  violence  of  the  wind.  Remembering  that  a  good 
horse  was  killed  on  this  station  in  the  hurricane  of  1831,  I  suc- 
ceeded with  some  difficulty  in  liberating  ours  from  the  stable 
before  he  should  be  buried  in  the  ruins.  I  had  only  just 
returned  to  the  house  when  the  whole  of  the  kitchen  roof  and 
chimney  were  carried  away,  a  part  of  which  fell  with  a  tremen- 
dous crash  only  a  few  yards  from  the  place  where  we  stood. 
We  now  retreated  into  the  hall  or  sitting-room ;  and  in  a  few 
minutes  afterwards  a  part  of  the  roof  over  one  of  the  bedrooms 
was  blown  away,  whilst  at  the  same  time  the  ceiling   of  the 


CHAP.  III. — THE    ISLAND    OF    BARBADOES.  297 

room  in  which  we  were  assembled  was  moving  in  such  a  manner, 
through  the  violence  of  the  tempest,  that  we  expected  every  mo- 
ment the  remaining  part  of  the  house  would  be  demolished  1 
Although  the  rain  was  falling  in  torrents,  we  saw  that  we  must 
flee  for  our  lives.  We  had  already  packed  up  in  boxes  and 
trunks  such  articles  and  papers  as  we  tliought  might  receive 
damage.  We  therefore  left  the  house  to  its  fate,  and  sought  a 
partial  shelter  in  a  field  of  sugar-canes  at  a  short  distance. 

There  were,  besides  Mrs.  Moister  and  myself,  ^liss  Hovell,  a 
young  friend  on  a  visit,  and  a  number  of  people  who  had  fled  to 
us  for  refuge  when  their  own  houses  were  destroyed.  In  cross- 
ing over  to  the  cane-piece  it  was  with  the  greatest  difliculty  that 
we  kept  on  our  feet.  AVe  were  obliged  on  one  occasion  to  cling 
to  some  small  trees,  to  prevent  our  being  literally  blown  away. 
We  had  now  to  stand  in  a  trench,  ancle-deep  in  w'ater  and  mud, 
saturated  with  rain  and  shivering  with  cold,  patiently  awaiting 
the  result  of  this  awful  visitation.  We  were  tluuikful  to  observe 
that  the  walls  of  our  house  and  chapel  still  stood,  although  the 
shingles  and  boards  were  blowing  about  in  every  direction. 
About  two  o'clock  p.m.  the  storm  abated  a  little,  and  I  ventured 
up  to  the  house.  I  found  the  rooms,  beds,  furniture,  and  every 
thing  completely  drenched.  As  the  wind  was  still  high,  I  did 
not  think  it  prudent  to  remain  ;  and  having  secured  with  diffi- 
culty a  few  loaves  of  bread,  Sec,  I  returned  and  divided  these 
among  twenty  people ;  which  proved  very  acceptable.  As  soon 
as  the  storm  abated  a  little,  we  entered  the  house,  and  began  to 
put  things  in  order  as  well  as  we  could.  Throughout  the  whole 
of  this  trying  season,  I  am  thankful  to  say  that  our  minds  were 
kept  in  perfect  peace,  and  we  were  enabled  to  put  our  trust  in 
Him  who  doeth  all  things  well. 

In  a  few  days  afterwards  we  had  the  roof  of  our  house  re- 
placed, and  the  necessary  repairs  completed ;  and  on  looking 
round  on  the  losses  and  sufterings  of  our  neighbours,  v/e  saw 
abundant  cause  for  gratitude  to  God  for  His  preserving  care  and 
goodness.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Providence  the  poor 
suffered  much  ;  with  few  exceptions  their  houses  were  entirely 
•destroyed.  We  opened  the  chapel  as  a  place  of  shelter  for  the 
destitute ;  and  many  persons  slept  in  it  till  they  could  rebuild 


298  PAIIT    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

their  houses ;  and  we  did  our  best  to  supply  their  immediate 
necessities,  and  keep  them  from  starvation. 

Other  parts  of  the  island  suffered  much  from  the  destruction 
of  property,  but  through  mercy  not  many  lives  were  lost  on 
shore.  At  sea,  however,  and  in  Carlisle  Bay,  there  was  serious 
loss  both  of  life  and  property.  Several  boats  were  upset  and 
the  crews  drowned  ;  and  a  number  of  larger  vessels  were  totally 
wrecked  on  the  coast,  whilst  some  which  put  to  sea,  hoping  to 
weather  out  the  storm,  were  never  heard  of  again. 

On  the  following  Sabbath  I  preached  in  Bridge  Town,  and 
endeavoured  to  improve  the  awful  visitation,  when  a  most 
affecting  incident  occurred,  which  is  worthy  of  record.  Before  I 
went  into  the  pulpit.  Captain  Weeks,  of  the  brig  "  Hebe," 
handed  to  me  a  note,  containing  a  request  that  public  thanks 
might  be  returned  to  Almighty  God,  for  His  goodness  in  saving 
himself  and  his  men  from  a  watery  grave,  when  the  vessel  was 
dismasted  at  sea  during  the  hurricane.  The  interest  of  the  ser- 
vice was  enhanced  by  the  presence  of  the  sailors,  as  well  as  the 
Captain,  who  was  a  pious  man.  The  congregation  united  most 
heartily  in  this  act  of  thanksgiving,  and  nearly  every  eye  was 
suffused  with  tears,  while  we  sang, 

"  I  '11  praise  my  Maker  while  I  've  breath,"  &c. 

The  District  Meeting  of  1836  commenced  in  Bridge  Town  on 
the  30th  of  April ;  and  the  reports  from  the  respective  stations 
were  of  a  very  cheering  character.  On  the  following  day,  however, 
a  feeling  of  gloom  was  cast  over  the  minds  of  the  brethren  by 
the  death  of  the  Eev.  T.  Crosthwaite,  a  devoted  Missionary,  who, 
after  lingering  for  sometime  in  pulmonary  consumption,  finished 
his  course  with  joy.  In  the  evening  I  preached  at  Bath  from 
Numbers  xxiii.  10  :  "  Let  me  die  the  death  of  the  righteous,  and 
let  my  last  end  be  like  his."  This  painful  affliction  was  soon 
followed  by  the  death  of  his  little  daughter ;  and  Mrs.  Crosth- 
waite returned  to  England  a  lonely  widow,  leaving  the  remains 
of  those  most  dear  to  her  on  earth,  interred  in  James  Street 
chapel  yard. 

During  the  time  that  I  laboured  in  Barbadoes,  and  more 
especially  in  subsequent  years,  the  success  of  the  Mission  was 
as  remarkable  as  had  been  the  barrenness  of  its  aspect,  and" 


CHAP    III. — THE    ISLAND    OF    BARBAD0E3.  299 

the  opposition  which  it  encountered,  at  an  earlier  period.  This 
will  appear  from  the  following  brief  notices  of  the  principal 
stations  occupied  by  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  in  various 
parts  of  the  island. 

Beidge  Town. — In  this  city  we  have  two  excellent  chapels, 
and  two  commodious  Ministers'  residences,  with  a  prosperous 
cause  in  all  its  departments.  James  Street  new  chapel  is  a 
spacious  and  elegant  building,  adapted  to  seat  about  one 
thousand  persons.  It  reflects  much  credit  upon  the  Eev. 
Henry  Kurd,  under  whose  superintendence  it  was  erected  a  few 
years  ago.  Bethel  chapel,  in  Bay  Street,  is  a  neat  gothic 
structure ;  and  was  built  under  the  direction  of  the  Kev.  Wil- 
liam Tidier,  in  1844  ;  it  will  accommodate  a  congregation  of 
about  eiglit  hundred.  Both  places  of  worship  are  well 
attended ;  and  for  respectability,  intelligence,  and  piety,  the 
congregations  would  bear  a  comparison  with  those  of  more 
highly  favoured  countries.  The  Missionaries  who  reside  in 
Bridge  Town,  have  not  only  the  pastoral  care  of  the  large 
societies  in  the  city,  but  during  the  week  they  visit  Dalkeith, 
near  the  garrison,  Belmont,  and  Payne's  Bay,  where  neat  little 
chapels  have  been  erected,  and  a  good  work  commenced. 

Providence  is  situated  in  the  parish  of  Christchurch, 
about  eight  miles  from  Bridge  Town,  on  a  commanding 
eminence,  with  a  delightful  prospect  of  both  sea  and  land. 
A  beautiful  new  chapel  has  recently  been  erected ;  superseding 
the  one  built  by  the  late  Mr.  Pieece,  which  has  been  converted 
into  a  school-room.  The  Minister's  residence  is  also  a  com- 
modious and  substantial  building,  and  stands  at  a  convenient 
distance  from  the  chapel.  The  air  is  pure,  and  the  situation 
remarkably  healthy  for  a  tropical  climate;  and  we  found  it 
altogether  a  delightful  place  of  residence.  Prom  Providence 
the  resident  Minister  extends  his  labours  to  various  estates  and 
villages  in  the  neighbourhood  during  the  week,  with  gi*eat 
advantage  to  the  people. 

Ebenezer. — This  is  the  name  given  to  a  station  in  the 
parish  of  St.  Philip,  in  commemoration  of  the  Divine  goodness, 
by  which  the  Gospel  was  first  introduced  into  that  once  dark 
and  benighted   part  of  the   island.      In  the  month  of  July> 


300  PART   II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

1835,  Miss  Jane  Hinds,  and  Miss  Frances  Colemore,  two  pious 
members  of  our  church  in  Bridge  Town,  visited  Crane,  a 
celebrated  watering-place,  at  the  east  end  of  the  island,  for  the 
benefit  of  their  health.  During  their  stay,  they  embraced  every 
opportunity  of  doing  good  to  the  people ;  and  when  I  paid  them 
a  visit,  at  their  request,  with  the  special  object  of  making 
known  the  good  news  of  salvation,  they  collected  their 
neighbours  together  to  hear  the  word,  and  we  had  a  delightful 
meeting.  I  expounded  in  a  simple  manner  the  conversation  of 
Christ  with  Nicodemus  about  the  new  birth.  A  gracious 
influence  rested  upon  the  congregation,  many  of  whom  after- 
wards expressed  their  surprise,  never  liaving  heard  such 
doctrine  before.  They  moreover  earnestly  requested  me  to 
come  again,  and  tell  them  more  about  these  things.  I  did  so ; 
and  the  Holy  Spirit  applied  the  word  to  the  hearts  of  several, 
who  were  ultimately  brought  to  a  saving  knowledge  of  the 
truth.  An  interesting  class  of  about  twenty  members  was 
soon  formed,  which  I  met  myself,  after  preaching,  as  I  had  no 
Leader  as  yet  to  take  charge  of  it.  Such  was  the  commence- 
ment of  a  work  of  God  which  has  perhaps  never  been  sur- 
passed in  the  history  of  modern  Missions. 

The  number  of  church  members  continued  to  increase,  and 
in  subsequent  years  Class  Leaders  and  Local  Preachers  were 
raised  up  ;  a  commodious  chapel  was  erected,  capable  of  seating 
about  six  hundred  people,  with  a  residence  for  the  Minister 
at  a  convenient  distance,  Ebenezer  having  become  the  head  of 
a  Circuit.  Ultimately  the  good  work  was  extended  to  Supers, 
near  Codrington  College;  to  Shrewsbury,  an  out-station,  so 
called  in  honour  of  the  persecuted  Missionary;  to  Duncan's, 
a  promising  new  place ;  and  to  Parish  Hill,  in  St.  Joseph's, 
besides  other  places  of  minor  importance.'* 

*  The  Rev.  George  Ranyell,  who  afterwards  laboured  successfully  in  this 
part  of  the  ^Mission  field,  said,  in  a  letter  which  I  received  from  him,  dated, 
Barbadoes,  September  25th,  1848,  "We  are  doing  well  in  St,  Philip's; 
where,  I  beheve,  you  commenced  the  Mission  a  number  of  years  ago.  We 
have  now  a  society  tliere  of  eight  hundred  members ;  and  so  greatly  has  the 
work  extended,  that  the  places  in  that  neighbourhood  would  make  a  delight- 
ful Circuit  for  two  Missionaries.     I  frequently  hear  honourable  mention 


CHAP.    III. — THE    ISLAND    OF    BARBADOES.  301 

Speight's  Town. — The  Mission  was  commenced  at  this 
place  by  the  Eev.  James  Aldis,  in  1835.  The  people  had 
been  previously  favoured  with  the  visits  of  the  late  Miss 
Christian  Gill,  through  whose  pious  efforts  the  way  was  in  a 
measure  prepared  for  the  establishment  of  a  permanent  station. 
A  commodious  chapel  school  has  been  erected,  to  accommodate 
about  four  hundred  persons,  in  which  Divine  service  is  held  on 
the  Sabbath,  and  a  good  school  taught  during  the  week.  The 
Minister  resident  at  Speight's  Town  visits  a  number  of  out- 
stations  in  the  neighbourhood,  which,  without  his  labours, 
would  be  spiritually  destitute. 

Scotland. — That  part  of  Barbadoes  which  bears  this 
honoured  name  is  a  deep  valley  or  glen,  on  a  large  scale, 
opening  out  to  the  sea,  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  island; 
the  sides  of  which  are  very  precipitous,  and  the  scenery 
somewhat  bold  and  romantic.  On  a  small  estate  called 
"  Murphy's,"  belonging  to  Miss  Hinds,  preaching  was 
commenced  about  the  year  1834,  Miss  C.  Gill  having  been 
made  very  useful  here  also ;  and  the  Gospel  has  extended  its 
influence  among  the  people  of  the  neighbourhood  ever  since. 
A  chapel  school  has  been  erected  here,  to  accommodate  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  persons,  both  for  the  purpose  of  Divine 
worship  and  tuition.  The  station  is  supplied  chiefly  by  the 
Missionary  residing  at  Speight's  Town ;  but  occasionally  by 
Local  Preachers  from  Bridge  Town  and  other  places. 

As  no  island  in  the  West  Indies  was  more  barren  and  dis- 
couraging to  the  Missionaries  than  Barbadoes  at  first,  so  none 
has  of  late  years  been  more  prosperous  and  cheering.  Not- 
withstanding the  temporaiy  check  given  to  the  work  of  the 
Mission  a  few  years  ago,  by  the  ravages  of  the  Asiatic  cholera,* 

made  of  your  name,  by  some  of  our  best  Leaders  and  members,  who  were 
brought  to  God  through  your  inslrumentahty,  and  who  still  remember  you 
with  sincere  affection.  In  this  I  do  rejoice,  and  I  know  you  will  rejoice 
with  me.  May  these,  with  many  others,  be  '  om*  joy,  and  the  crown  of  our 
rejoicing,  in  the  day  of  the  Lord  Jesus  ! '  " 

*  In  the  year  1834,  the  Asiatic  cholera  swept  over  the  West  Indies;  and 
no  colony  suffered  more  than  Barbadoes.  According  to  careful  computation, 
the  victims  of  this  awful  scourge  were  not  fewer  than  twenty  thousand. 
Among  those  who  fell  a  sacrifice  to  their  zeal  and  devotedness  in  ministering 


303  PAET  II. — THE  WEST  INDIES. 

and  more  recently  by  the  long-continued  and  severe  drought, 
and  consequent  poverty  and  depression  of  a  Large  portion  of 
the  population,  we  have  now  connected  with  the  Wesleyan 
Missionary  Society  in  the  island,  two  Circuits,  fourteen  chapels, 
five  Missionaries,  two  thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty-seven, 
church-memhers,  nine  hundred  and  eighty-one  scholars,  and  eight 
thousand  Jive  hundred  attendants  on  public  loorship. 

After  labouring  for  about  two  years  in  Barbadoes,  I  was 
appointed  to  the  island  of  St.  Vincent;  and  we  reluctantly 
took  leave  of  a  people  who  had  become  endeared  to  us  by 
their  kindness,  and  who  will  ever  live  in  our  affectionate 
remembrance. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THE  ISLAND  OF  ST.  VIXCEXT. 

View  of  the  Windward  Coast — Aboriginal  Inhabitants — Settled  by  the  French 
— Captured  by  the  EngUsh — Carib  War — Prosperity  of  the  Colony — 
Aspect ofthecountry — Souffriere Mountain — Botanical  Garden — Mineral 
Springs — Towns  and  Villages — State  of  Rehgion  and  Morals — Wesleyau 
Missions — Dr.  Coke's  Visits — Persecution — Prosperity  of  the  Work — 
Effects  of  Emancipation — Observations — First  Shipwreck — Mission 
Stations — Kingstown — Calliaqua — Calder — Marriaqua — George  Town 
— Union — Biabou— Chateaubellair — Barrowallie — Layou. 

On  the  afternoon  of  Tuesday  the  10th  of  January,  1837,  we 
took  leave  of  our  friends  in  Barbadoes,  and  embarked  for  our 
new  station,  having  taken  our  passage  by  an  American  sloop 
called  the  "  Dove."     As  the  distance  we  had  to  sail  was  only 

to  others,  during  this  awful  visitation,  was  the  Rev.  W.  Bannister,  the 
Superintendent  of  the  Barbadoes  Circuit,  and  the  Chairman  of  the  District. 
A  more  kind-hearted,  generous,  and  faithful  Missionary  never  entered  the 
field  than  Mr.  Bannister.  He  died  happy  in  God,  at  Bridge  Town,  Barba- 
does, on  Sunday  the  9th  of  July,  1854,  a  few  days  after  two  of  his  beloved 
children  had  been  carried  off  by  the  same  disease. 


CHAP.  IV. — THE    ISLAND    OF    ST.  VINCENT.  303 

about  eighty  miles  with  the  trade  wind  in  our  favour,  we  had  a 
fair  prospect  of  reaching  the  place  of  our  destination  in  a  few 
hours.  The  weather  was  fine,  but  the  motion  of  our  small 
vessel  was  exceedingly  disagreeable,  and  we  spent  a  sleepless 
night  from  tossing  on  the  mighty  deep.  Early  the  next  morning 
I  arose,  went  upon  deck,  and  just  as  the  sun  was  rising  above 
the  eastern  horizon,  I  clearly  beheld  the  island  of  St.  Vincent 
as  it  loomed  in  the  distance.  The  general  outline  of  its  appear- 
ance is  bold  and  romantic ;  presenting  to  the  view  in  many 
places  on  the  windward  coast  steep  and  rugged  precipices, 
washed  by  the  foaming  billows  of  the  Atlantic ;  above  which 
may  be  seen  in  the  distance  lofty  mountains,  covered  to  their 
summits  with  perpetual  verdure.  On  sailing  down  the  coast, 
within  a  fevv^  miles  of  the  shore,  the  prospect  is  more  varied, 
many  fertile  slopes  and  valleys  opening  to  the  view.  As  we  ap- 
proached the  land,  we  could  clearly  distinguish  the  buildings  on 
the  estates,  as  well  as  the  cultivated  grounds  planted  with 
sugar-cane,  intersected  with  cocoa-nut  and  palmist  trees,  grace- 
fully waving  in  the  wind. 

About  ten  o'clock  a.m.  we  rounded  Zion  Point,  and  came  to 
anchor  in  Kingstown  Bay,  with  one  of  the  most  delightful 
prospects  before  us  that  ever  I  beheld.  The  view  from  the 
shipping  in  the  harbour  is  one  of  combined  beauty  and  gran- 
deur, and  cannot  fail  to  strike  the  beholder  with  admiration  and 
delight.  On  the  right  hand  may  be  seen  Zion  Hill,  with  its 
flagstaff  and  its  signals  floating  in  the  breeze  ;  and  on  the  left 
is  Fort  Charlotte,  occupying  an  elevated  rocky  eminence,  with 
its  barracks,  drawbridge,  and  frowning  battery,  whilst  Kings- 
town lines  the  margin  of  the  bay,  having  a  smooth  sandy  beach 
in  front,  and  towering  mountains  behind,  completely  clothed 
with  the  richest  foliage.  Altogether  it  presents  the  appearance 
of  a  natural  amphitheatre  on  a  grand  and  magnificent  scale,  the 
background  mountain  scenery  of  which  is  enlivened  by  the 
dwelling-houses,  which  present  themselves  at  intervals  em- 
bosomed among  trees  of  the  liveliest  green  and  of  singular 
beauty. 

On  landing  we  received  a  hearty  welcome  from  the  Eev.  E. 
Tigis,  the  resident  Wesleyan  Missionary  of  Kingstown ;  and  I 


304  PART    II. — THE   WEST    INDIES. 

preached  in  the  evening;  to  a  devout  and  attentive  congregation. 
On  the  following  day  we  proceeded  to  our  station  at  Calliaqua  ; 
and  the  people  among  whom  we  were  appointed  to  labour 
hailed  our  arrival  with  gratitude  and  joy.  The  following  brief 
historical  sketch  of  the  country  is  presented  to  the  reader,  as 
preparatory  to  an  account  of  the  rise,  progress,  and  results  of 
niissiona]y  labour  among  the  people  of  this  interesting  colony. 

The  island  of  St.  Vincent  is  situated  in  latitude  13"  15' 
north,  and  longitude  61**  12'  west,  at  an  equal  distance  from 
Barbadoes  and  Grenada.  It  was  discovered  by  Columbus  on 
the  23rd  of  January,  149 S,  the  day  dedicated  to  St.  Vincent  in 
the  Komish  calendar  ;  but  for  some  cause  unknown  to  us  it  ap- 
pears to  have  been  overlooked  or  neglected  by  European  adven- 
turers for  many  years  after  several  of  the  other  West  India 
islands  had  been  colonized.  Hence  it  became  a  place  of  refuge 
for  the  native  Indians  who  fled  from  the  presence  of  the  cruel 
Spaniards.  For  this  purpose  it  w^as  peculiarly  adapted  by  its 
rugged  mountains,  numerous  rivers,  and  fertile  valleys.  The 
tall  and  majestic  trees  which  were  to  be  found  in  every  direc- 
tion were  siutable  for  native  canoes ;  and  the  shores  abounded 
with  excellent  fish,  which,  with  other  local  facilities,  tended  to 
attract  a  numerous  native  population.  At  an  early  period  the 
number  of  the  inhabitants  was  increased  by  the  arrival  of  a  race 
of  Africans,  the  origin  of  which  has  never  been  correctly  ascer- 
tained. They  were,  probably,  a  cargo  of  slaves  wrecked  on  the 
coast,  and  received  by  the  natives  as  brethren.  These  strangers 
so  far  intermixed  with  the  real  aborigines,  as  to  obliterate  in  a 
measure  their  original  national  characteristics;  but  their  de- 
scendants, nevertheless,  formed  a  distinct  tribe,  called  the  black 
Caribs  ;  while  the  others  were  known  as  the  re^Caribs.  These 
two  tribes  occupied  separate  tracts  of  land,  and  frequently  waged 
war  with  each  other. 

In  1719  the  French  of  Martinique,  availing  themselves  of 
this  difference,  fitted  out  an  expedition  against  the  island,  pro- 
fessedly to  assist  the  red  Caribs,  but  in  reality  to  take  possession 
of  the  place  for  themselves.  On  their  arrival  they  found  the 
red  Caribs  unwilling  to  act  against  their  sable  brethren :  and  the 
two  tribes  united  to  drive  off  the  invaders,  whom  they  regarded 


CHAP.  IV. — THE    ISLAND    OF    ST.  VINCENT.  305 

as  common  enemies,  and  who  were  repulsed  on  this  occasion 
with  considerable  loss.  Thus  the  native  inhabitants  were  left  in 
the  possession  of  their  island  home  a  little  longer.  Several 
years  afterwards,  however,  the  French  succeeded  in  forming-  a 
settlement,  w^ith  the  consent  of  the  black  Caribs,  who  were  at 
that  time  the  stronger  party ;  and  the  colonists  were  ultimately 
increased  in  number  by  arrivals  both  from  Europe  and  the 
neighbouring  islands. 

About  twenty  years  after  its  commencement,  when  the  colony 
numbered  eight  hundred  Vv'hites  and  three  thousand  Negro 
slaves,  it  was  captured  by  the  British,  and  ultimately  ceded  to 
us  in  perpetuity,  by  the  treaty  of  peace  between  England  and 
Erance  in  1763.  Afler  this  change  in  the  government,  the 
settlement  received  a  large  accession  of  planters  from  North 
America  and  the  British  islands  of  Barbadoes  and  Antigua,  and 
prosperity  and  success  were  confidently  anticipated.  These 
were  in  a  measure  checked,  however,  by  the  rigour  with  which 
the  English  are  said  to  have  treated  the  Erench  and  the  Caribs, 
requiring  them  to  re-purchase  the  lands  which  they  occupied, 
and  thus  causing  many  of  the  former  to  leave  the  island,  whilst 
the  latter  manifested  considerable  dissatisfaction. 

In  the  year  1771,  when  cultivation  was  rapidly  extending, 
the  British  attempted  to  take  possession  of  certain  lands  beyond 
the  river  Yamboo,  which  had  hitherto  been  claimed  by  the 
Caribs.  They  met  with  a  most  determined  resistance,  and  thus 
commenced  the  first  of  a  series  of  Carib  wars,  which  were  not 
only  a  great  annoyance  to  the  planters,  but  very  serious  in  their 
consequences.  It  was  not  long,  however,  before  the  natives 
were  in  this  instance  subdued ;  and  "  articles  of  peace  "  were 
signed  by  both  parties,  securing  to  the  Caribs  a  large  tract  of 
the  best  land  in  the  island  in  the  district  of  Grand  Sable,  ever 
since  known  as  the  "  Carib  Country." 

But  these  "articles  "  were  wantonly  violated  by  the  faithless 
Indians,  who,  in  1779,  aided  the  Erench  in  an  attack  upon  the 
island,  which  was  then  in  a  very  defenceless  state,  and  of  which 
they  gained  possession  without  the  loss  of  a  man.  The  colony, 
on  this  occasion,  remained  in  the  possession  of  the  Erench  for 
four  years ;  during  which  they  treated  the  British  residents  with 

X 


306  PAUT    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

great  severity.  In  1783,  in  consequence  of  the  definitive  treaty 
between  tlie  Courts  of  London  and  Paris,  St.  Vincent's  was  again 
restored  to  the  English,  in  whose  possession  it  has  ever  since 
continued. 

The  colony  was  just  recovering  from  the  effects  of  the  in- 
vasion, when,  in  1798,  the  Caribs  again  rose,  and,  in  connexion 
with  the  French  revolutionists  from  Martinique,  made  another 
attempt  to  take  possession  of  the  island ;  having  resolved  to 
put  all  the  English  to  death.  This  was  the  commencement  of  a 
war  of  the  most  serious  character,  as  it  was  protracted  for  seve- 
ral months,  and  resulted  in  the  loss  dl"  hundreds  of  valuable  lives, 
and  the  destruction  of  a  large  amount  of  property.  The  uidted 
armies  of  the  French  and  Caribs  laid  waste  the  whole  country  ; 
and  such  were  their  number  and  power,  that  they  repeatedly 
possessed  themselves  of  every  important  post  in  the  island  ;  the 
English  being  confined  to  Kingstown,  and  completely  hemmed  in 
on  every  side.  On  the  arrival  of  reinforcements,  however,  a 
vigorous  effort  was  made,  and  the  enemy  was  routed  in  every 
direction.  Most  of  the  French  who  survived  were  taken  prison- 
ers of  war ;  and  as  no  more  confidence  could  be  placed  in  the 
faithless  Caribs,  a  large  number  of  them  were  removed,  first  to 
the  island  of  Baliseau,  and  afterwards  to  Honduras  Bay,  where 
their  descendants  still  exist  as  a  distinct  race  of  people.  The 
few  wdio  remain  in  St.  Vincent's,  about  four  hundred  in  number, 
scarcely  ever  associate  with  the  Negroes,  and  are  remarkable  only 
for  their  ignorance,  indolence,  and  apathy.  They  are  fond  of  fish- 
ing, and  occupy  lots  of  ground  allowed  them  by  the  Government. 

On  the  restoration  of  peace  the  planters  and  merchants 
addressed  themselves  to  their  respective  callings  with  diligence 
and  vigour,  and  the  colony  was  soon  favoured  with  a  cheering 
measure  of  agricultural  and  commercial  prosperity.  Extensive 
tracts  of  land  were  brought  under  profitable  cultivation,  substan- 
tial baildings  were  erected  on  the  respective  estates,  aud  an  ex- 
tensive traffic  was  carried  on  with  England  and  other  countries. 
In  the  mean  time  the  population  was  rapidly  increasing,  by  the 
arrival  of  additional  settlers  from  the  mother  country,  and  the 
introduction  of  numerous  cargoes  of  Negro  slaves  from  the 
coast  of  Africa. 


CHAP.    IV. — THE   ISLA^'D    OF    ST.    VINCENT.  307 

The  topographical  aspect  of  the  interior  of  the  island  bears  a 
•striking  resemblance  to  that  of  the  coast,  to  which  reference 
has  been  already  made,  It  is  generally  rngged  and  moun- 
tainous, with  here  and  there  a  fertile  valley  ;  and  the  scenery  is 
generally  of  a  bold  and  romantic  character.  The  cultivation  is 
chiefly  confined  to  a  narrow  belt  of  land,  varying  from  one  to 
two  miles  broad,  and  extending  along  the  margin  of  the  sea, 
nearly  round  the  island  ;  while  the  mountains  in  the  centre  are 
■left  to  their  native  wildness.  The  whole  country  is  watered  by 
numerous  rivers,  which  not  only  tend  to  fertilize  the  beautiful 
valleys  through  which  they  flow,  but  are  also  made  available  for 
the  water  mills  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  sugar,  rum,  and 
arrow-root,  now  the  staple  articles  of  export.  The  roads  are 
narrow  and  hilly,  and  are  therefore  not  well  adapted  for  wheel 
vehicles.  Of  late  years  they  have  been  kept  in  tolerable 
repair ;  so  that  travelling  on  horseback  is  not  by  any  means 
difficult. 

Like  most  of  the  other  "West  India  islands,  St.  Vincent's  is 
evidently  of  volcanic  origin ;  and  one  of  the  most  striking  ob- 
jects in  its  general  outline  is  the  Souffriere  Mountain,  tlie  most 
northern  of  a  lofty  chain,  which  rises  to  an  elevation  of  about 
three  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  is  chiefly  re- 
markable for  the  eruption  which  occurred  in  the  year  1812. 
Previous  to  this  period,  the  crater  was  situated  a  sliort  distance 
from  the  summit  of  the  mountain,  nearly  half  a  mile  in  diameter, 
and  about  six  hundred  feet  deep.  At  the  bottom  of  this 
■immense  basin  stood  a  conical  rocky  hill,  about  two  hundred 
feet  in  height,  with  a  considerable  body  of  water  around  its  base. 
These  solitary  wilds  had  witnessed  no  convulsion  for  about  one 
Imndred  years,  when,  on  Monday,  the  17th  of  April,  about 
noon,  the  inhabitants  residing  in  the  neighbourhood  were 
alarmed  by  a  peculiar  tremulous  motion  of  the  earth,  and  a 
rumbling  noise  in  the  air.  Soon  afterwards,  a  column  of  black 
smoke  was  seen  issuing  from  the  crater,  and  the  heavens  were 
literally  darkened  by  the  dense  clouds  which  intercepted  the 
rays  of  the  sun;  while  a  perpetual  shower  of  calcined  earth  fell 
-on  all  below.  This  pulverized  substance  covered  the  decks  of 
'-vessels  at  sea,  and  was  carried  by  an  upward  current  of  wind 

X  2 


308  PART   II. — THE    ■\^'EST    INDIES. 

as  far  as  Barbadoes.*  On  Tuesday,  the  awful  scene  continued  ; 
the  shower  of  dust  and  small  cinders  increased,  and  covered  the 
earth,  insomuch  that  not  a  blade  of  grass,  or  even  a  leaf  of  vege- 
tation, was  to  be  seen  for  many  miles.  On  Thursday,  the  30th, 
the  awful  catastrophe  came  to  a  crisis.  On  that  day  the  whole 
island  was  agitated  by  several  violent  shocks  of  earthquake,, 
following  each  other  in  rapid  succession.  The  rumbling  noise 
increased ;  and  the  dreadful  explosion  wdiich  ensued  has  been 
compared  to  the  simultaneous  discharge  of  all  the  artillery  in 
the  world.  In  the  mean  time  the  shower  of  ashes  abated,  and 
the  most  eccentric  and  vivid  flashes  of  lightning  played  around 
the  summit  of  the  mountain  ;  wdiilst  immense  streams  of  liquid 
fire  were  poured  forth,  as  from  a  boiling  cauldron,  and  worked 
their  way  to  the  sea  in  various  directions.  The  Caribs  of 
Morne  Eonde,  as  well  as  the  Negroes  and  other  inhabitants  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  mountain,  Avere  seized  with  consternation, 
and  fled  from  their  dwellings  in  dismay.  On  the  following  day 
the  stream  of  burning  lava  ceased  to  flow  ;  and  the  threatened 
visitation  passed  over.  Through  the  good  providence  of  God, 
not  many  lives  were  lost ;  but  considerable  damage  was  done  to 

*  The  thundering  noise  of  the  eruption  was  distinctly  heard  in  the 
neighbouring-  colonies-,  but  in  Barbadoes  the  effects  were  most  severely 
felt,  although  at  a  distance  of  eighty  miles  to  Avindward.  Considerable 
damage  was  done  to  the  cultivation  by  the  ashes,  which  descended  in  showers 
on  every  part  of  the  country ;  and  the  volcanic  matter  formed  a  cloud  so 
dense  as  to  intercept  the.  rays  of  the  sun.  The  inhabitants,  being  totally 
ignorant  of  the  cause  of  this  phenomenon,  were  struck  with  terror  and 
amazement.  Some  thought  the  world  was  coming  to  an  end,  and  betook 
themselves  to  prayer  and  supplication,  which  they  had  previously  neglected. 
The  places  of  worship  were  thrown  open,  and  people  were  seen  plodding 
their  way  to  the  chapel  by  the  light  of  a  lantern,  at  noon-day;  such  was 
the  darkness  and  gloom  in  which  the  island  was  enveloped,  and  so  great 
was  the  excitement  that  prevailed  among  the  people.  After  continuing  for 
several  hours,  the  shower  of  ashes  abated,  the  cloud  passed  over,  and  the 
sun  once  more  burst  forth  in  all  its  glory ;  cheering  the  hearts  of  the  peo- 
ple, but  discovering  the  earth  to  be  every  where  covered  with  a  thick  layer 
of  eruptive  matter.  About  twenty  years  afterwards,  when  digging  in  my 
garden  at  Providence,  I  found  a  quantity  of  this  Souffriere  dust ;  and  it  had 
then  the  appearance  of  rotten-stone,  the  particles  having  become  consoli- 
dated. 


CHAP.    IV. — THE    ISLAND    OF    ST.    VINCENT.  309 

the  cultivation,  and  it  was  a  long  time  before  the  windward  dis- 
trict recovered  its  wonted  verdure. 

In  the  year  1844,  I  visited  the  SoulFriere  Mountain,  in  com- 
pany with  the  Rev.  J.  Blackwell ;  and  again,  in  1847,  with  the 
Eev.  W.  Ritchie.  On  both  occasions  I  was  much  interested  in 
contemplating  the  wonderful  works  of  God,  as  there  displayed. 
The  ascent  is  steep  and  rugged ;  and  it  requires  four  hours  con- 
stant exertion  to  reacli  the  summit,  which  is  said  to  be  six 
miles  above  "  Lot  Eourteen,"  the  highest  estate  on  the  wind- 
ward side  of  the  island.  The  •'  dry  river  "  and  the  "  rocky  ravine  " 
show  tlie  principal  track  of  the  lava,  on  the  occasion  of  the 
eruption  ;  and  the  frequent  appearance  of  trees  turned  into 
charcoal,  and  of  clay  converted  into  brick,  still  exhibit  the  sad 
effects  of  that  catastrophe.  Since  the  eruption,  there  are  two 
craters  ; — the  old  and  the  new.  The  old  crater  is  now  a  vast 
deep  lake,  the  surface  of  the  water  being  several  hundred  feet 
below  the  brink.  The  conical  hill  which  once  occupied  the 
centre,  has  almost  disappeared  beneath  the  deep  blue  water. 
The  new  crater  bears  all  the  marks  of  a  recent  eruption  ;  the 
sides  being  in  many  places  destitute  of  vegetation,  and  having 
only  a  little  muddy  water  at  one  corner  of  the  bottom.  On  my 
last  visit,  I  succeeded  with  some  difficulty  in  descending  to  the 
bottom  of  the  new  crater.  The  view  from  thence  is  awfully 
grand  ;  and  I  shall  not  soon  forget  the  feelings  with  which  I 
there  contemplated  the  effects  of  the  eruption  of  1812  :  1  could 
say  with  the  Psalmist,  "  Come,  behold  the  works  of  the  Lord  ; 
what  desolation  He  hath  made  in  the  earth  !  " 

This  island  once  possessed  a  public  establishment  of  great 
repute,  called  the  "  Botanical  Garden,"  situated  about  a  mile 
from  Kingstown.  It  consisted  of  thirty  acres  of  land,  tastefully 
laid  out,  and  furnished  Avith  rare  and  valuable  plants  ;  some  of 
wdiich  were  natural  to  the  island,  and  others  exotics,  collected 
from  the  East  Indies,  and  from  South  America.  Here  the  nut- 
meg, clove,  and  cinnamon  trees  flourished,  as  well  as  the  useful 
bread-fruit  plant,  brought  from  the  South  Sea  Islands  by  Cap- 
tain Bligh,  in  1793.  Por  some  time  the  Government  took  a 
lively  interest  in  this  establishment ;  but  of  late  years  it  has 
.been  allowed  to  go  to  ruin.     Several  of  the  plants  have  been 


310  PART  II. — THE  WEST  INDIES. 

removed  to  Trinidad,  the  rest  liave  been  neglected ;  and  the 
once  famous  botanical  garden  is  now  nothing  more  than  a  wild 
forest  of  rare  and  beautiful  tre^^s.  There  are  to  be  found,  how- 
ever, in  various  parts  of  the  island,  in  private  gardens,  numerous 
specimens  of  the  exotics  of  the  East.  The  nutmegs,  cloves,  and 
cinnamon,  which  grow  in  the  Mission  garden  at  Calliaqua,  are 
equal  to  any  imported  from  India ;  and  the  bread-fruit  tree 
flourishes  on  almost  every  estate,  and  produces  an  article  of 
food,  now  generally  used  by  all  classes  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  only  other  natural  curiosities  of  any  note,  are  two 
mineral  springs,  called  "  Eelleair  Spa,"  and  "  Mariaqua  Spa." 
The  first  is  three  miles  from  Kingstown,  and  the  latter  about 
twelve.  The  water  of  these  wells  has  never  been  properly 
analysed;  but  the  first  appears  to  partake  chiefly  of  saline, 
and  the  otlier  of  chalybeate,  properties.  They  are  both 
esteemed  for  their  refreshing  and  medicinal  virtues.  Belleair 
Spa  is  easy  of  access,  being  approached  by  a  tolerable  road; 
but  that  of  Mariaqua  is  more  difficult,  being  situated  in  the 
interior  of  the  island,  remote  from  the  public  highway,  and  at 
a  considerable  distance  from  any  plantation  or  settlement. 

In  the  animal  kingdom,  this  island  aff'ords  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  species  ;  a  careful  examination  of  which  would  no  doubt 
amply  repay  the  labours  of  the  naturalist.  The  woods  abound 
with  beautiful  birds,  as  well  as  witli  little  quadrupeds,  in  great 
variety,  especially  the  guana,  matt,  the  manacoo,  and  snakes 
of  various  kinds.  The  manacoo  is  a  destructive  little  animal, 
about  the  size  of  a  cat,  and  is  constantly  watching  for  an 
opportunity  to  attack  the  hen-roosts.  Pie  is  not  satisfied  with 
carrying  one  off  at  once,  and  feasting  upon  it,  but  kills  all  he 
can  catch  before  he  begins  to  remove  his  prey  to  the  nearest 
forest.  We  have  sometimes  lost  several  fowls  in  one  night 
from  the  attacks  of  this  wily  little  creature. 

The  towns  and  villages  of  St.  Vincent's  are  not  remarkable. 
Kingstown,  the  capital,  lies  in  the  bottom  of  a  splendid 
amphitheatre  of  mountains,  and  is  strongly  fortified.  The 
town  consists  chiefly  of  two  streets,  which  run  parallel  with- 
each  other ;  some  of  the  houses  being  built  of  stone,  and 
others  of  wood.     The  Court-house  and  Wesleyan  chapel  are 


CHAP,  IV. — THE  ISLAND  OF  ST.  VINCENT.      311 

substantial  and  ele^^ant  buildings.  The  English  churcli  is  also 
a  solid  structure  ;  but  it  is  not  distinguished  for  its  architectural 
beauty,  although  it  is  said  to  have  cost  £42,000.  The  other 
places  of  worship,  a  Scotch  church,  and  a  Roman  Catholic 
chapel,  are  plain  buddings.  The  Government  house,  about  a 
mile  from  the  town,  is  a  neat  edifice,  and  stands  in  a  beautiful 
situation,  with  a  commandins;  view  of  the  harbour.  The 
population  of  Kingstown  may  be  estimated  at  about  six  thou- 
sand. New  Edinburgh  is  a  beautiful  suburban  village,  on  the 
road  to  Fort  Charlotte,  and  contains  a  number  of  good  houses, 
occupied  chiefly  by  the  merchants  and  Government  officers. 
Calliaqua  and  George  Town,  to  the  windward ;  and  Layou, 
Barowalie,  and  Chateaubellair,  to  the  leeward  of  the  capital, 
are  considerable  villages,  and  centres  of  large  populations. 
Other  villages  of  minor  consequence  have  sprung  up  in  various 
directions,  since  emancipation.  Indeed,  almost  every  planta- 
tion has  its  Negro  village,  with  a  population  of  two  or  three 
hundred. 

The  island  is  about  twenty-five  miles  long,  and  fifteen 
broad,  and  contains  a  population  of  twenty-nine  thou- 
sand. The  principal  portion  of  the  people  are  of  African 
descent.  There  are,  however,  a  few  Europeans;  English, 
Scotch,  Erench,  and  Portuguese.  No  people  could  be  more 
demoralized  than  were  the  inhabitants  of  St.  Vincent's,  both 
bond  and  free,  towards  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century; 
when  tliey  first  attracted  the  attention  of  the  friends  of  Missions 
in  this  country.  Their  condition  was,  if  possible,  rendered  still 
worse  by  the  frequent  importation  of  cargoes  of  Negro  slaves, 
direct  from  Africa,  who  brought  with  them  all  their  heathenish 
superstitious  practices.  Honourable  marriage  was  scarcely 
known ;  and  Sunday  was  the  common  market-day  for  all 
classes, — tlie  only  day,  in  fact,  which  was  allowed  to  the  poor 
slaves  for  their  own  use.  Thus,  immortality  was  practised  by 
persons  of  every  grade  in  society,  without  restraint ;  and  the 
entire  colony  was  almost  destitute  even  of  the  forms  of  religion. 
The  island  had  been  divided  into  five  parishes,  it  is  true,  but 
there  was  not  a  clmrch  in  any  one  of  them.  The  only  sanctuary 
which  had  ever   been  erected  for  the  worship  of   God,  was 


313  PAllT    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

destroyed  by  a  hurricane  in  1780.  There  was  but  one  Clergy- 
man for  the  whole  colony ;  and  he  officiated  in  the  court- 
house in  Kingstown  to  a  few  whites  ;  the  poor  Negroes  being 
totally  unprovided  for. 

Such  was  the  spiritual  destitution  of  this  interesting  island, 
when,  on  Tuesday,  the  9th  of  January,  1787,  a  schooner 
entered  Kingstown  Bay,  the  arrival  of  which  was  destined,  in 
the  order  of  Divine  Providence,  to  commencs  a  moral  revolu- 
tion, such  as  has  scarcely  been  exceeded  since  the  days  of  the 
Apostles.  The  vessel  was  from  Antigua,  and  shortly  after  she 
came  to  anchor,  there  was  seen  landing  from  her  a  gentleman 
of  small  stature,  clerical  appearance,  and  bland  open  counte- 
nance, accompanied  by  three  other  persons,  also  strangers. 
These  were  the  venerable  Dr.  Coke,  and  the  liev.  ^Messrs.  Baxter, 
Clarke,  and  Hammett,  his  Missionary  companions,  who  had 
come  to  proclaim  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  to  all  who 
w^ere  willing  to  hear.  Divine  Providence  again  opened  the 
way  before  the  messengers  of  His  mercy.  They  were  intro- 
duced to  a  Mr.  Claxton,  who  had  heard  the  Gospel  in  Antigua, 
and  in  whose  house  the  zealous  Doctor  preached  the  same 
evening  to  an  attentive  congregation. 

The  kind  reception  with  which  the  Missionaries  met  was 
regarded  as  a  token  for  good ;  and  the  next  day  they  proceeded 
into  the  country,  on  a  visit  to  a  Mr.  Clapham,  and  to  wait  on 
another  gentleman,  to  whom  they  had  letters  of  introduction. 
They  held  an  interesting  religious  service,  in  the  large  parlour 
of  Mr.  Clapham ;  and  then  proceeded  on  their  journey,  much 
encouraged  by  the  favourable  prospects  which  were  opening  up 
before  them.  Wherever  they  went  they  were  received  with 
that  kindness  and  hospitality  for  which  the  West  India  planters 
have  always  been  so  remarkable,  when  favourably  impressed 
with  the  character  and  object  of  their  visitors.  When  Mr. 
Clarke  was  introduced  as  the  Missionary  appointed  to  labour 
in  the  island,  the  planters  generally  expressed  their  readiness  to 
admit  him  to  their  respective  plantations,  for  the  purpose  of 
instructing  their  slaves.  On  the  return  of  the  Missionaries  to 
Kingstown,  after  an  absence  of  two  or  three  days,  they  found 
that   Mr.    Claxton  had  actually  engaged  a   large   w'arehouse, 


CHAP.    IV. — THE    ISLAND    OF    ST.    VI^'CEKT.  313 

whicli  he  had  fitted  up  as  a  chapel ;  and  had  provided  suitable 
accommodation  for  Mr.  Clarke,  the  Minister  who  was  to  remain 
on  the  station.  Thus  promising  was  the  commencement  of  the 
Wesleyau  Mission  in  tlie  island  of  St.  Vincent. 

Having-  so  far  accomplished  the  object  of  their  visit,  Dr. 
Coke,  Mr.  Baxter,  and  ]\Ir.  Hammctt  proceeded  to  Dominica. 
In  the  course  of  the  following  year,  however,  so  rapidly  had 
the  work  of  God  extended  in  the  island,  that  Mr.  Clarke  was 
unable  to  meet  the  demands  which  were  made  upon  him  for 
his  services,  and  Mr.  Baxter  therefore  returned  to  his  assistance. 
The  united  labours  of  these  men  of  God  were  greatly  blessed, 
both  in  attracting  numbers  to  hear  the  Gospel,  and  in  the 
conversion  of  many  souls  to  a  saving  knowledge  of  the  truth. 

Although  the  Missionaries  directed  their  chief  attention  to 
the  Negro  slaves,  they  were  not  uinnindful  of  the  warlike 
€aribs,  who  then  occupied  the  windward  part  of  the  island. 
A  distinct  Mission  was  commenced  for  their  benefit ;  buildings 
were  erected,  and  a  schoolmaster  and  his  wife  were  sent  from 
England;  and  Mr.  and  j\Irs.  Baxter  resided  in  the  Carib 
country  for  nearly  two  years,  doing  all  that  Christian  zeal  and 
kindness  could  do  for  the  conversion  of  the  natives.  It  is 
painful  to  record  that  all  this  was,  to  a  considerable  extent, 
labour  in  vain,  little  or  no  impression  being  made  upon  the 
minds  of  this  barbarous  and  degraded  people.  Before  the  last 
Carib  war  the  Missionaries  retired  from  that  part  of  the  country, 
again  to  labour  among  the  slave  population. 

In  the  month  of  December,  17S8,  Dr.  Coke  again  visited  St. 
Vincent's,  and  brought  with  him  the  Eev.  R.  Gamble  to  assist 
Mr.  Clarke  ;  whilst  Mr.  Baxter  was  engaged  in  his  attempt  to 
evangelize  the  Caribs.  The  pious  Doctor  was  delighted  with 
the  progress  of  the  work  among  the  Negroes ;  but  deeply 
pained  at  the  unwillingness  of  the  aborigines  to  receive  the 
Gospel. 

Nothing  particular  occurred  during  the  following  year;  but, 
towards  the  close  of  1790,  Dr.  Coke  once  more  landed  in 
Xingstown,  in  company  with  the  Eev.  Mr.  Werrill,  from  Ire- 
land. It  was  evening,  and  they  proceeded  at  once  to  the  chapel, 
which  they  found  filled  with  attentive  worshippers.     By  this 


314  PAET    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

time  the  original  place  of  worship  had  become  too  small,  and 
the  Missionaries  had  engaged  a  large  room,  formerly  occupied 
by  the  lloman  Catholics.  Here  the  Doctor  preached  witli 
much  enlargement  of  heart ;  and  then  proceeded  on  his  tour 
among  the  islands,  leaving  the  Missionaries  to  proceed  in  their 
delightful  work  of  preaching  to  the  poor  slaves ;  several 
hundreds  of  whom  had  now  been  brought  to  a  knowledge  of 
the  truth,  and  united  in  church  fellowship. 

Hitherto  nothing  had  occurred  to  retard  the  progress  of  the 
work  of  God,  on  this  prosperous  and  promising  station;  but 
it  was  now  to  undergo  a  severe  trial.  The  planters  seem  all 
at  once  to  have  discovered  the  fact,  that  the  free  promulgation 
of  the  Gospel  among  the  Xegroes  might  ultimately  interfere 
with  the  existing  system  of  slavery ;  and  a  plan  of  persecution 
was  organized,  which  has  scarcely  been  paralleled  in  the  liistory 
of  Missions.  Ineffectually  to  put  a  stop  to  the  preaching  of  the 
Missionaries,  a  law  was  passed,  forbidding  any  one  to  preach 
without  a  licence  ;  and,  to  prevent  unnecessary  applications,  it 
was  distinctly  stated,  that  no  jierson  should  be  eligible  for  a 
licence  who  had  not  previously  resided  in  the  island  twelve 
months.  The  authorities  knew  that  this  would  effectually 
militate  against  the  itinerant  system  of  the  Wesleyan  Connexion. 
This  malicious  and  persecuting  law  was  strengthened  and 
guarded  by  penal  sanctions  of  tlie  most  stringent  character. 
The  progress  of  its  operative  penalties  consisted  of  three  stages, 
commencing  with  oppression,  and  ending  in  blood.  For  the 
first  offence,  the  punishment  was  to  be  a  fine  of  ten  Johannes, 
(eighteen  pounds,)  or  imprisonment  for  not  more  than  ninety 
days,  or  less  than  thirty ;  for  the  second  oft'ence,  such  corpokai* 
PUNISHMENT  as  the  court  should  think  proper  to  inflict,  and 
BANISHMENT  from  the  colony ;  and  lastly ,  if  the  offender 
dared  to  return  from  his  banishment,  and  preach  without 
authority,  in  violation  of  this  law,  he  was  to  be  punished  with 
DEATH ! 

We  can  readily  imagine  the  passing  of  such  a  law  in  the 
days  of  Nero,  Caligula,  or  Domitian ;  but  it  is  scarcely  credible 
that  such  a  law  should  have  been  enacted  in  a  Protestant 
country  at  the  close  of  the  eighteenth  century.     It  is  neverthe- 


CHAP.  IV. — THE  ISLAND  OF  ST.  VINCENT.      315 

less  a  fact,  and  I  have  seen  the  original  statute,  as  it  stands  on 
the  official  records  of  the  island. 

After  the  passing  of  this  cruel  enactment,  how  did  the 
Missionaries  proceed  ?  Just  as  the  Apostles  proceeded  under 
similar  circumstances.  They  said,  "  Shall  we  obey  God  or 
raan?"  and  on  the  following  Sabbath  the  Eev.  ^latthew 
Lumb  preached  in  the  Wesleyau  chapel  as  usual,  for  whicli 
alleged  breach  of  the  law  he  was  forthwith  dragged  to  prison. 
Hundreds  of  people  followed  him  with  tears  and  lamentations ; 
and  the  popular  excitement  was  such  that  the  Government 
authorities  called  out  the  military  to  guard  the  jail,  and  prevent 
the  prisoner  from  being  liberated  by  the  populace.  While  the 
soldiers  stood  by  the  entrance  to  the  prison,  there  came  a 
poor  old  blind  woman,  inquiring  for  "  dear  Massa  Minister." 
The  soldiers  said  to  each  other,  "  Let  the  poor  old  blind 
woman  pass ;  what  harm  can  she  do  ? "  Thus  she  was 
allowed  to  enter  the  gate.  On  reaching  the  prison,  she  groped 
along  the  Avail,  till  she  found  the  iron-grated  window  of  the 
Missionary's  cell,  and  putting  her  face  to  it  she  exclaimed, 
"  Dear  Massa  Minister,  God  bless  you  !  Keep  heart,  Massa  t 
So  dem  put  good  people  in  prison  long  time  ago.  Neber  mind 
Massa ;  all  we  go  pray  for  you,"  The  persecuted  Missionary 
afterwards  declared  that  these  words  of  the  poor  old  blind 
woman  were  as  balm  to  his  wounded  soul;  and  he  resolved 
to  cast  himself  afresh  on  the  promises  of  Jehovah. 

When  the  tumult  had  somewhat  subsided,  and  the  soldiers 
had  returned  to  the  barracks,  several  of  the  people  who 
lingered  about  were  permitted  to  approach  the  prison  window ; 
when  the  persecuted  ]Missionary  presented  himself,  and  actually 
repeated  the  crime  for  which  he  was  committed,  by  speaking 
of  Christ  and  His  salvation.  Among  the  crowd  there  stood  a 
woman,  named  Mary  Eichardson,  who  thus  heard  the  Gospel 
for  the  first  time.  The  word  came  with  power  to  her  heart. 
She  went  home,  and  wept  and  prayed,  and  sought  the  Lord, 
till  she  found  Him,  to  the  joy  of  her  soul.  j\Iany  years 
afterwards,  whilst  I  was  labouring  in  St.  Vincent's,  this  good 
woman  sickened  and  died ;  and  in  her  last  moments  she  thanked 
God  that  ever  she  heard  the  Missionary  preach  through.  th& 


816  PART   II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

iron  grating  of  the  prison  window  ;  "  for  that,"  said  she,  "  was 
the  word  which  came  to  my  heart." 

On  the  26th  of  Jannary,  1793,  Dr.  Coke  arrived  in  St. 
Vincent's,  from  St.  Kitt's,  having  heard  of  the  imprisonment  of 
Mr.  Lumb.  He  proceeded  at  once  to  the  jail,  and  found  his 
friend  confined  with  a  common  malefactor,  lie  afforded  him 
all  the  consolation  in  his  power ;  and  after  some  time  the 
Missionary  was  released  from  his  confinement ;  but  he  was 
required  to  quit  the  island,  without  being  permitted  to  preach 
again  to  his  dear  people.  Such  was  the  rigour  with  which  this 
cruel  law  v»^as  enforced. 

On  his  return  to  England  in  the  month  of  August,  Dr.  Coke 
hastened  to  lay  before  the  Imperial  Government  the  proceedings 
of  the  House  of  Assembly  in  St.  Vincent's.  He  obtained  an 
interview  with  the  llight  Honourable  Henry  Dundas,  Secretary 
of  State  for  the  Colonies,  and  received  from  his  Lordship  the 
welcome  assurance,  that  "  His  Majesty  in  Council  had  been  gra- 
ciously  pleased  to  disannul  the  Act  of  the  Assembly  of  St.  Vincenty 
which  banished  the  Missionaries  from  the  Island ;  and  that  His. 
Majesty'' s  pleasure  icouUl  b*"  notified  to  the  Governor  by  the  first 
packet  that  sailed  for  the  West  Indies" 

Thus  was  the  door  of  usefulness  once  more  opened  to  the 
]\Iissionaries  in  this  interesting  colony,  and  the  Eev.  Messrs. 
Owen  and  Alexander  were  appointed  to  labour  there.  On  their 
arrival  they  found,  as  might  have  been  expected,  that  the  people 
were  in  many  places  scattered;  but  in  some  instances  the  members 
had  kept  up  their  private  meetings  for  religious  exercises  during 
the  time  that  they  had  been  deprived  of  a  Gospel  ministry.  The 
le-establishment  of  the  Mission  was  hailed  with  joy  by  the  com- 
munity generally,  and  the  Missionaries  soon  witnessed  a  cheering 
measure  of  prosperity,  the  number  of  church  members  reported 
in  the  year  1800  being  two  thousand. 

In  succeeding  years  the  Missionaries  continued  to  labour  with 
great  success,  and  prosperous  societies  were  established  in 
various  parts  of  the  island.  Almost  every  village  had  its  little 
sanctuary,  and  on  scores  of  estates  the  word  of  God  was  faith- 
fully preached  at  every  available  opportunity.  But  the  difficulties 
of  slavery  v»'ere  still  painfully  felt,  and  the  faith  and  patience  of 


CHAP.    IV. — THE    ISLAND    OF    ST.    VINCENT.  317 

the  ;Missionaries  and  their  people  were  frequently  put  to  the 
severest  test.  Although  treated  with  more  humanity  here 
than  in  some  other  colonies,  the  slaves  were  still  liable 
to  severe  flog-^iugs  ;  and  they  could  not  go  from  the  property 
on  which  they  resided,  not  even  to  chapel,  without  a  written 
pass,  which  was  frequently  withheld  for  the  most  trifling 
cause,  to  the  great  injury  of  our  religious  meetings.  There 
was  also  still  in  existence,  till  a  late  period,  the  abominable 
Sunday  market,  with  all  its  attendant  evils. 

We  therefore  rejoiced  exceedingly  when  the  united  voice  of 
the  British  nation  demanded  the  freedom  of  the  poor  slave,  and 
when  the  glorious  object  was  accomplished,  at  such  a  noble 
sacrifice  as  twenty  millions  derling.  In  no  island  had  the  Gospel 
done  more  to  prepare  the  people  for  the  boon  of  freedom  than  in 
St.  Vincent.  Hence,  when  the  eventful  period  approached,  there 
was  no  commotion  or  tumult,  as  had  been  predicted  by  some, 
but  all  was  peace  and  harmony.  On  the  night  preceding  the 
glorious  first  of  August,  which  was  to  bring  the  dawn  of  free- 
dom, the  chapels  were  opened  for  the  celebration  of  watch-night 
services.  The  hour  of  midnight  found  thousands  of  poor 
iSegroes  upon  their  bended  knees  before  God  to  receive  the 
boon  of  freedom  as  from  heaven  ;  and  when  the  clock  struck 
twelve,  which  was  the  death-knell  of  slavery  throughout  the 
British  empire,  having  previously  waited  for  a  few  moments  in 
silent  prayer  and  praise,  they  tlien  rose  to  their  feet,  and  sang 
with  one  heart  and  one  voice,  "Praise  God,  from  whom  all 
blessings  flow,"  8:c.  Then  might  have  been  seen  husbands  era- 
bracing  their  wives,  and  parents  caressing  their  children,  and 
friend  congratulating  friend,  that  they  had  been  spared  to  see 
the  glorious  hour  of  freedom  come. 

It  was  during  the  transition  from  slavery  to  freedom,  that  I 
entered  upon  my  first  appointment  as  a  Missionary  in  this 
interesting  island  ;  and  I  shall  never  forget  the  effect  which  this 
welcome  change  in  the  civil  condition  of  the  people  seemed  to 
have  upon  their  minds.  They  appeared  generally  to  be  impressed 
with  one  idea, — namely,  this  :  "  ^Ye  are  now  free,  we  must  there- 
fore all  begin  to  serve  the  Lord."  Every  hindrance  being  now  re- 
moved, they  came  flocking-  to  the  house  of  God  by  scores  and 


318  PART    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

hundreds,  not  merely  as  occasional  worshippers,  but  professedly 
to  join  themselves  unto  the  Lord  in  a  perpetual  covenant,  never 
to  be  fori^otten.  Divine  unction  attended  the  preaching*  of  the 
word,  and  we  had  reason  to  believe  that  a  genuine  work  of 
grace  was  in  progress  among  the  people.  During  the  first  year 
after  emancipation,  we  received  into  church  fellowship  with  us, 
in  various  parts  of  the  island,  upwards  of  one  thousand  new 
members.  I  do  not  mean  to  say  that  all  these  were  savingly 
converted  to  God,  but  I  trust  that  many  were  so,  and  none 
were  admitted  who  did  not  give  satisfactory  evidence  that  they 
had  a  "  sincere  desire  to  flee  from  the  wrath  to  come."  There 
was  also  a  desire  for  schools  which  could  scarcely  be  met ;  and 
it  required  our  utmost  efforts  to  provide  for  the  rapid  extension 
of  the  work,  as  well  as  the  greatest  prudence  in  the  administra- 
tion of  discipline.  The  religious  services  were  generally  both 
long  and  arduous,  and  I  have  sometimes  been  engaged  for  five 
hours,  without  coming  outside  the  communion  rail,  in  reading, 
preaching,  praying,  baptizing,  administering  the  Lord's  Supper^ 
and  other  religious  services;  for  in  connexion  with  some  of  our 
chapels  we  had  upwards  of  one  thousand  communicants. 

The  beneficial  effects  of  freedom  were  also  seen  in  the  increased 
temporal  comforts  of  the  people.  They  cheerfully  worked  for 
wages,  and  were  soon  possessed  of  the  means  to  procure  the  ne- 
cessaries and  comforts  of  civilized  life.  In  many  instances  they 
purchased  lots  of  land,  and  built  neat  little  cottages  thereon; 
and  free  villages  rapidly  sprang  up  in  various  directions. 
[Friendly  Societies  were  also  formed  in  connexion  with  every 
station  for  the  relief  of  the  sick  and  aged,  as  the  people  were 
now  entirely  dependent  on  their  own  resources  in  seasons  of 
affliction,  no  provision  having  been  made  by  the  Act  of  Emanci- 
pation for  the  support  of  the  aged  and  decrepit.  All  these 
arrangements  devolved  much  labour,  as  well  as  care  and  anxiety, 
on  the  Missionary  ;  for  the  people  looked  up  to  us  for  counsel 
and  direction  in  every  thing.  We  had  to  act  not  only  as  their 
Pastors,  but  frequently  as  their  physicians,  lawyers,  architects, 
and  Magistrates  ;  and  it  is  a  pleasing  fact  that  the  lawyers  and 
Magistrates  were  very  seldom  appealed  to  by  the  Wesleyan  por- 
tion of  the  community,  although  they  numbered,  according  to 


CHAP.  IV. — THE    ISLAND    OF    ST.  VINCEXT.  319 

the  census,  14,1  GO,  out  of  a  population  of  29,000.  But  al- 
thougli  our  labours  were  arduous,  we  had  an  ample  reward  in 
the  gratitude  and  devoted  attachment  of  an  affectionate  people. 
When  riding  along  the  road,  the  Missionary  would  sometimes  be 
■saluted  by  nearly  a  hundred  voices  at  once,  exclaiming,  "  How 
d'ye,  Massa?  how  Missie  and  pickaninnies?"  This  friendly 
salutation  came  from  a  gang  of  labourers  at  work  in  the  field, 
nearly  hidden  by  the  sugar-canes  which  they  were  weeding.  Thus 
they  would  inquire  after  their  iMinister,  his  wife,  and  his  children 
at  one  breath  ;  and  the  ]\Iissionary  responding  kindly,  hears  the 
same  number  of  voices  cry,  "  Tank  you,  Massa ;  God  bless  you, 
Massa  ;"  and  he  pursues  his  journey.  If  he  reminded  them  of 
the  meeting  at  night  and  invited  thera  to  attend,  they  would 
probably  reply,  "  Yes,  IMassa,  we  all  go  come ;  we  love  we 
chapel." 

I  may  here  observe  that  our  people  in  St.  Vincent's  were  re- 
markable for  their  regular  attendance  on  the  means  of  grace. 
In  former  years,  when  the  word  of  God  was  scarce,  the  poor 
slaves  have  been  known  to  walk  fifteen  or  twenty  miles  to  hear 
the  Gospel.  They  used  to  leave  iheir  homes  on  Saturday  even- 
ing, after  they  had  finished  their  work,  and  walk  all  night,  to 
attend  the  chapel  at  Kingstown  on  the  Sabbath ;  and  then  walk 
all  night  back  again,  so  as  to  reach  home  in  time  for  work  on 
the  Monday  morning.  They  are  now  happily  furnished  with 
places  of  worship  at  a  convenient  distance  from  their  dwellings  : 
these  are  generally  filled  with  attentive  hearers.  Jksides  the 
regular  chapels  at  the  respective  stations,  on  almost  every  estate 
there  is  a  "  JPrayers-housey  This  is  a  large  hut  fitted  up  as  a 
temporary  place  of  worship.  Here  we  preach  when  we  visit  the 
plantations  on  week-nights,  and  here  the  people  frequently 
assemble  at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning,  to  hold  their  prayer- 
meeting  before  they  go  to  work.  Among  so  many  thousands 
•of  professing  Christians,  who  had  but  recently  emerged  from  the 
influence  of  slavery,  we  had,  of  course,  frequent  calls  for  the 
exercise  of  church  discipline  ;  but  still,  among  our  own  people, 
there  was  a  spirit  of  genuine  piety  which  was  truly  gratifying  to 
witness. 

Our  people  were  also  remarkable  for  their  Christian  benevo- 


320  PAET   IT. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

lence,  according  to  their  means.  In  proof  oC  this,  many 
pleasing  instances  might  be  given,  both  of  individual  sacritice, 
and  of  united  efforts  in  the  cause  of  God.  But  the  circum- 
scribed limits  of  these  memorials  will  only  admit  of  the 
following : — At  an  early  period  of  the  Mission,  the  Gospel  came 

with  power  to  the  heart  of  Miss  D ,  a  respectable  female 

of  colour,  who  resided  in  Kingstown.  At  the  time  of  her 
conversion  slie  had  one  slave  named  Betty,  who  had  faithfully 
served  her  for  many  years,  and  who  had  also  been  made  a 

partaker  of  the   saving  grace  of  God.     Miss  D resolved 

to  give  old  Betty  her  freedom  ;  and  when  the  manumission 
papers  v/ere  made  out,  she  generously  presented  them  to  her 
faithful  slave,  together  with  a  bonus  of  three  doubloons,  about 
ten  guineas.     This  manifold  act  of  kindness  affected  old  Betty 
very  much,  and  she  burst  into  tears,  exclaiming,  "  0  my  dear 
Missie,  me  tank  you  too  much  ;  me  tank  you  for  free,  me  tank 
you  for  doubloon.     But,  Missie,  what  me  go  do  wid   all  dis 
money  ?      Me  neber  hab   so  much   money   in  all   me   life !  " 
"  Do  what  you  please  with  it,"  said  her  noble-minded  mistress  : 
'•'  it   is   a   small   acknovvledgment   of   your  faithful    services." 
"Then,"   said  poor  Betty,  "if  Misses  say  me  may   do  wdiat 
me  please  wid  dc  money,  dis  is  what  me  please  to  do  wid  it ; 
me  want  to  take  to  dear  Massa  Minister,  and  ask  him  to  send 
it  to  de  great  Society  in  England,  to  help  to  send  de  Gospel  to 
Africa,  dat  all  me  country  people  may  be  made  happy  same 
way   me."      "  Very  well,"   said   her   mistress.      She  actually 
brought  the  money  to  the  Missionary,  and  it  was  appropriated 
according  to  her  desire.     Like  the  poor  widow  in  the  Gospel, 
she  gave  all  she  had,  even  all  her  living. 

For  many  years  past  the  St.  Vincent's  Mission  has  been 
entirely  self-supporting ;  and  in  addition  to  the  effort  required 
for  their  efficient  sustentation,  and  for  the  erection  of  chapels 
and  schools,  our  people  have  come  forward  nobly  in  aid  of  the 
Mission  fund,  from  year  to  year.  In  connexion  wdth  every 
station,  we  have  a  "  Branch  Missionary  Society."  Missionary 
Meetings  are  regularly  held,  collectors  employed,  and  the  usual 
machinery  set  in  motion,  the  same  as  in  England.  The 
Missionary  Meetings  in  Yorkshire  and  Cornwall  are  not  more 


CHAP.    lY. — THE    ISLAND    OF    ST.    VINCENT.  331 

enthusiastic  in  their  character,  than  are  those  held  among  the 
sable  sons  of  Ham,  in  the  West  Indies.  The  financial  results 
may  be  seen  on  a  reference  to  the  published  Reports  of  the 
Society.  I  need  only  add  that,  during  the  last  year  I  spent 
in  St.  Vincent's,  the  subscriptions  received  by  the  collectors, 
and  the  money  raised  at  the  anniversary  meetings,  throughout 
the  island,  amounted  to  the  noble  sum  of  £620.  Is.  9d.  The 
cash  was  immediately  remitted  to  the  Treasurers  of  the  Parent 
Society  in  England,  to  be  united  with  the  ottcrings  of 
British  Christians,  for  the  purpose  of  sending  the  Gospel  to 
benighted  heathen  nations.  This  was  in  addition  to  their 
ordinary  contributions  for  the  support  of  the  work  among 
themselves,  including  marriage  and  baptismal  offerings  to  the 
amount  of  £60  in  one  year,  in  the  Biabou  Circuit  alone,  for  the 
support  of  the  day  schools. 

The  people  are,  moreover,  very  susceptible  of  excitement, 
especially  when  a  little  humour  is  employed.  Returning  to 
St.  Vincent's  on  one  occasion,  after  an  absence  of  several  years, 
I  attended  a  Missionary  Meeting  at  Union.  I  was  struck 
with  the  great  change  which  had  taken  place  in  the  condition 
of  the  people  in  the  interim,  and  adverted  to  the  subject  in  my 
address,  nearly  as  follows  :  ''  I  am  glad  to  see  you,  my  friends, 
looking  so  comfortable  and  happy.  What  a  wonderful  change 
has  taken  place  in  your  circumstances  since  I  first  came  to 
preach  to  you  !  Then  you  met  together  under  an  old  thatched 
shed,  and  were  exposed  to  the  bleak  wind  and  pelting  rain ; 
now  you  have  a  beautiful  chapel :  then  you  were  poor  slaves  ; 
now  you  are  all  free :  then  you  were  but  imperfectly  clothed 
with  very  homely  garments ;  now  you  all  appear  in  the  house 
of  God,  dressed  like  gentleman  and  ladies :  then  many  of  you 
were  in  darkness  and  sin ;  now  you  walk  in  the  light  of  life. 
Tour  children  are,  moreover,  learning  to  read  the  Bible :  and  I 
see  them  with  their  hymn-books  in  their  hands  to-day.  Now 
what  has  made  this  wonderful  change  ?  Is  it  not  the  Gospel  ?  " 
"  Yes,  Massa  !  "  from  a  liundred  voices.  "  And  the  Gospel  is  able 
to  do  the  same  for  all  the  world ;  and  it  is  your  duty  to  send 
it  to  the  ends  of  the  earth.  '  I'reely  ye  have  received,  freely  give.' 
As  I  came  to  chapel  to-day,  I  saw  several  young  men  riding 


323  PART   II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

their  own  horses,  although  they  were  once  poor  slaves.  Now, 
it  appears  to  me  that  those  who  ride  their  own  horses,  should 
give  at  least  five  dollars  a  year  to  the  Missionary  Society,  in 
token  of  their  gratitude  to  God  for  His  goodness."  I  had 
scarcely  uttered  the  words,  when  a  smart  young  black  man 
inarched  up  the  aisle,  whip  in  hand,  and  threw  down  his  five 
dollars  on  the  table.  "  I  keep  ray  horse,  Sir :  there  are  my  five 
dollars."  Then  came  another,  and  another;  while  others 
promised  to  bring  their  contributions  on  the  following  day. 
1  continued  :  "  That  is  the  way  to  do,  my  friends  :  '  Honour  the 
Lord  witli  your  substance,  and  with  the  first-fruits  of  all  your 
increase.'  But  it  is  not  only  the  gentlemen  who  have  been 
benefitted  by  the  Gospel ;  the  ladies  also  have  been  elevated  by 
its  influence.  I  see  you  all  to-day  neatly  dressed,  and  some 
carrying  their  parasols.  Now,  it  appears  to  me,  that  every 
parasol  lady  ought  to  give  at  least  a  dollar  a  year,  to  assist  in 
sending  the  Gospel  to  the  heathen."  That  playful  remark  also 
had  its  designed  efi'ect,  and  we  had  a  good  collection  ;  and  the  re- 
sult of  our  missionary  effort  at  that  little  place  was  £25.  16s.  8^. 

I  laboured  in  the  island  of  St.  Yincent  four  years,  at  two 
different  periods,  which  afforded  me  the  opportunity  of  viewing 
the  work  under  diflerent  aspects.  This  portion  of  our  mission- 
ary career  was  marked  by  many  rich  spiritual  blessings,  and  a 
large  measm-e  of  prosperity  and  happiness  in  our  work.  We 
also  had  our  trials,  privations,  and  sufferings,  in  common  with 
other  faithful  servants  of  the  Lord  Jesus. 

On  leaving  St.  Yincent's  the  first  time,  the  vessel  in  which  we 
sailed  was  wrecked,  in  working  out  of  the  harbour;  a  circum- 
stance concerning  which  a  few  passing  remarks  may  be  made, 
illustrative  of  the  discomforts  of  missionary  life  in  former  times, 
before  steamers  Avere  plying  among  the  islands.  It  was  on 
Tuesday,  the  3()th  of  January,  1838,  that  I  embarked  on  board 
the  schooner  "  Haidee,"  at  Calliaqua,  in  company  with  my 
dear  wife,  and  the  Eev.  Messrs  CuUingford,  Crane,  Marsden, 
and  Blackwell.  We  were  bound  for  Trinidad,  to  which  island 
I  was  appointed,  and  where  our  annual  District  Meeting  was 
to  be  held.  We  weighed  anchor,  never  more  comfortable  in 
our  arrangements,  or  more  happy  in  prospect  of  the  future; 


CHAP.    IV. THE    ISLAND    OF    ST.    VINCENT.  323 

but  we  had  not  proceeded  many  hundred  yards,  and  had 
scarcely  rounded  the  point,  when  the  vessel  struck  upon  a  coral 
reef,  and  in  one  short  hour*  was  completely  dashed  to  pieces, 
and  our  luggage  scattered  in  every  direction.  As  the  wreck 
occurred  in  the  day-time,  and  within  sight  of  the  shipping  in 
the  harbour,  assistance  was  promptly  rendered,  and  no  lives 
were  lost,  for  which  we  felt  truly  thankful. 

My  dear  wife,  being  the  only  female  on  board,  was  the  first 
lifted  into  a  boat  which  came  to  our  rescue,  and  the  brethren 
followed.  Being  able  to  swim,  I  did  not  feel  anxious  about 
myself,  and  therefore  remained  on  the  wreck  till  all  the  rest 
were  safe.  Last  of  all  I  jumped  into  a  boat  where  my  friend 
Captain  Radford  hnd  kindly  taken  charge  of  Mrs.  Moister,  who, 
I  was  thankful  to  find,  was  wonderfully  sustained  in  the  hour  of 
peril.  The  boat  in  which  we  sat  moved  off,  and  we  were  taken 
by  the  Captain  on  board  his  ship  "Jane  and  Barbara."  With 
peculiar  feelings  we  watched  until  sunset  the  efforts  made  by 
the  boatmen  to  save  our  luggage  and  other  property  ;  some  of 
which  was  carried  on  board  the  ships  in  the  harbour,  and  some 
on  shore.  Most  of  our  boxes  and  trunks  w^ere  saved  from  the 
wreck,  although  pilfering  had  taken  place,  amidst  the  confusion, 
to  a  considerable  extent.  Every  thing  we  had  was  more  or  less 
damaged,  being  saturated  with  salt  water,  as  it  was  taken  out 
of  the  sinking  vessel ;  and  we  were  left  without  a  single  article 
of  dry  linen,  or  change  of  raiment,  but  truly  thankful  for  life. 

On  the  morning  of  the  following  day  we  engaged  another 
vessel,  collected  our  damaged  luggage,  .and  in  the  afternoon 
embarked  once  more,  trusting  in  that  God  who  had  hitherto 
been  our  preserver  in  the  hour  of  danger.  During  the  next 
night,  whilst  sailing  along  to  the  leeward  of  a  number  of  little 
rocky  islets,  we  were  exposed  to  still  more  imminent  danger, 
through  the  carelessness  of  the  Captain  and  sailors,  who  were 
chiefly  Spaniards,  and  most  of  them  intoxicated.  We  were 
within  a  few  yards  of  the  breakers  when  I  made  the  discovery, 
and  insisted  on  the  vessel  being  kept  off,  and,  by  the  providence 
of  God,  just  escaped  a  second  wreck,  and  ultimately  reached 
the  place  of  our  destination  in  safety. 

On  ray  second  appointment  to  St.  Vincent's,  I  was  happy  to 
Y  2 


324  PART    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

find  that  great  improvement  had  taken  place  in  every  depart- 
ment of  the  work,  through  the  instrumentality  of  my  dear 
brethren  who  had  occupied  the  Mission  in  the  interim.  The 
following  brief  notices  of  the  respective  stations  comprised  in 
the  three  Circuits  into  which  the  island  is  now  divided,  may  be 
interesting  to  the  Christian  reader. 

Kingstown  is  not  only  the  capital  of  the  colony,  but  the  head 
of  the  central  Circuit.  Here  we  have  a  commodious  and  ele- 
o-ant  chapel,  the  front  of  which  is  built  of  polished  stone,  and 
the  other  parts  of  hewn  stone  and  brick.  It  is  an  ornament  to 
the  town,  as  well  as  a  noble  monument  of  the  liberality  and  zeal 
of  our  people.  It  was  erected  in  1840  at  a  cost  of  about  £7,000, 
under  the  superintendence  of  the  Rev.  John  CuUingford ;  and, 
being  furnished  with  galleries,  will  seat  nearly  two  thousand 
persons.  It  is  generally  well  attended  by  a  respectable  and  in- 
telligent  congregation,  chiefly  of  black  and  coloured  persons. 
It  is  a  delightful  sight  to  behold  this  spacious  edifice  crowded 
with  attentive  hearers  of  the  word  of  God ;  and  while  minister- 
ing to  them  I  have  often  wished  that  the  friends  of  Missions  in 
En«J-land  could  witness  their  devotions.  In  connexion  with  this 
station,  we  have  also  a  good  day  school  for  the  training  of  the 
rising  generation.  In  former  times  the  Kingstown  Society  was 
rich  in  holy  zealous  members,  who  were  fellow-helpers  to  the 
Missionaries  in  the  good  work.  One  may  still  hear  honourable 
mention  made  of  the  character  and  labours  of  Ann  Claxton,  the 
sister  of  Mrs.  Lillywhite,  both  the  daughters  of  Mr.  Claxton, 
who  first  welcomed  Dr.  Coke  to  the  island  ;  also  of  Margaret 
O'Flaherty,  Harriet  Gardner,  and  others,  Avho  have  long  since 
been  called  to  their  reward. 

Calliaqua  is  a  considerable  village  three  miles  from  Kings- 
town, on  the  road  to  the  windward  part  of  the  island.  Dr.  Coke 
preached  here  on  the  occasion  of  one  of  his  visits ;  and  the 
cause  of  God  took  deep  root  in  this  neighbourhood  at  an  early 
period.  On  being  appointed  to  this  station  in  1837,  the 
attendance  at  the  chapel  became  so  large  that  it  was  necessary 
to  enlarge  the  building  by  an  addition  of  twenty  feet  to  its  length.* 

*  Missionaries  have  frequently  to  act  as  architects  and  superintendents  of 
worlfs,  such  as  the  erection  and  enlargement  of  chapels,  in  addition  to  their  pas- 


CHAP.  IV. — THE  ISLAND  OF  ST.  VINCENT.      325 

Thirty-four  pews  were  put  up  in  the  new  part,  which  were  im- 
Diediately  let ;  and  the  proceeds  of  the  chapel  were  increased  by 
£S0  per  annum,  although  the  enlargement  and  improvements 
'On]y  cost  £250.  Such  was  the  rapidity  with  which  the  congre- 
gation increased  afterwards,  that  it  became  necessary  to  make  a 
second  enlargement.  This  was  judiciously  effected  under  the 
direction  of  my  esteemed  successor,  the  Rev.  John  Lee.  Several 
feet  were  added  to  the  width  of  the  buihling,  so  that  it  is  now 
a  spacious  place  of  worship,  and  will  seat  nearly  a  thousand 
people.  It  is  generally  well  attended,  and  there  is  an  excellent 
day  school,  taught  by  an  intelligent  native  teacher. 

Calder  was  the  original  name  of  an  important  station  about 
four  miles  from  Calliaqua,  and  seven  from  Kingstown.  Its 
name  is  derived  from  the  estate  in  connexion  with  which  the 
^first  chapel  was  built,  and  an  excellent  day  school  estab- 
lished, several  years  ago.  The  chapel  was  a  spacious  frame 
building,  calculated  to  accommodate  about  eight  hundred  people ; 
and  being  central  to  a  populous  district,  it  was  generally  well 
attended.  I  have  a  very  pleasant  recollection  of  many  happy 
seasons  in  Divine  worship.  Christian  fellowship,  and  social  in- 
tercourse with  Christian  friends  at  this  station.  The  interests 
of  true  religion  and  the  progress  of  the  Temperance  movement 
were  greatly  aided  and  promoted  at  this  place  by  the  Hon.  Hay 
M'Dowal  Grant,  who  was  for  many  years  the  respected  Attorney 
of  the  "  Trust  Estates,"  of  which  Calder  was  one.  This  Chris- 
tian gentleman  was  always  ready  to  stand  by  the  Missionaries, 
and  to  take  a  part  with  them  in  their  efforts  to  promote  the  real 
welfare  of  the  people.  In  cases  of  necessity  he  has  frequently 
himself  addressed  our  congregations  on  the  vital  truths  of  the 

toral  duties.  Iq  this  instance,  a  piece  of  engineering  was  performed  which 
excited  great  interest  at  the  time.  Having  cut  through  the  plate  and  sill  of 
the  building,  we  drew  the  end  to  its  appointed  place  by  means  of  a  couple 
of  ropes,  without  taking  it  down  ;  and  the  pieces  of  framework  which  formed 
the  enlargement,  having  been  previously  prepared,  were  fixed  in  their  places 
the  same  day ;  and  thus  a  coniiderable  saving  of  both  time  and  expense  was 
eflfected.  Notwithstanding  the  fears  of  the  people,  the  plan  succeeded  admi- 
rably; and  so  great  was  their  astonishment  when  they  saw  part  of  the  chapel 
moving  silently  along,  that  they  exclaimed  one  to  another,  "  Massa  Minister 
know  ebery  ting,  for  true," 


336  PAET   II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

Gospel,  whicli  he  so  well  understands.  John  Parsons,  Esq.,  a- 
pious  planter,  is  also  a  zealous  Local  Preacher  in  connexion  with 
our  church  at  this  place.  I  always  found  his  heart  and  his 
house  open  to  entertain,  in  the  most  hospitable  manner,  the  ser- 
vants of  the  Lord.  Circumstances  having  rendered  it  necessary 
to  erect  a  new  chapel  for  the  accommodation  of  our  Calder  con- 
gregation, on  an  eminence  near  the  coast,  with  a  new  name,  we 
shall  henceforth  hear  of  this  station  as  Mount  Coke,  so  called 
in  honour  of  the  revered  founder  of  our  West  India  Missions. ^ 
The  new  chapel  was  dedicated  on  the  6th  of  May,  1864,  in  con- 
nexion with  the  celebration  of  the  Jubilee  of  the  Missionary 
Society ;  and  the  Lieutenant  Governor  of  the  island  and  several 
members  of  the  Legislature  attended  the  opening  services. 

Makriaqua  is  an  interesting  out  station,  in  the  midst  of  a 
dense  population,  in  a  beautiful  and  picturesque  valley  of  that 
name.  A  neat  little  chapel  was  erected  here  during  my  second 
residence  in  the  island  in  1844  ;  it  has  generally  been  filled  with 
an  attentive  congregation.  We  have  no  resident  Minister  at 
this  place,  but  an  excellent  day  school  is  in  active  operation. 

George  Town  is  a  considerable  village  at  the  foot  of  the 
Soulfricre  mountain,  on  the  windward  side  of  the  island.  It  is 
situated  in  the  district  known  as  the  "  Carib  Country,"  an  exten- 
sive and  fertile  tract,  and  the  only  piece  of  level  land  in  thecolony. 
Our  station  was  originally  at  Mount  Young,  where  the  people 
worshipped  in  a  miserable  thatched  shed,  which  they  called  a 
chapel,  near  the  tunnel.  In  1837  this  wretched  place  was  de- 
molished by  a  gale  of  wind,  and  we  removed  our  establishment 
to  George  Town,  where  we  have  now  a  good  substantial  stone 
chapel,  furnished  with  galleries,  and  capable  of  accommodating 
nearly  a  thousand  people.  The  lot  of  land  was  procured,  and 
the  foundation  of  the  chapel  laid,  by  the  late  Eev.  J.  Culling- 
ford ;  and  the  building  was  raised  under  the  direction  of  his 
successor,  the  late  Eev.  W.  Bannister.  By  recent  arrangement, 
George  Town  is  not  only  the  place  of  residence  for  a  Minister, 
but  the  head  of  the  Windward  Circuit. 

Union  is  situated  in  a  narrow  valley  about  three  miles  from. 
Biabou,  and  has  been  an  interesting  station  for  many  years.. 
Divine  worship  was  formerly  conducted  under  a  thatched  shed, . 


CHAP.  IV. — THE    ISLAND    OF    ST.  VINCENT.  327 

whicli  stood  by  the  side  of  the  river,  and  nearly  surrounded  by 
the  stream.  We  have  now  a  commodious  and  substantial  chapel, 
Avhich  will  accommodate  about  six  hundred  persons.  As  it  oc- 
cupies nearly  the  same  site  as  the  old  shed,  the  situation  is  not 
the  most  desirable ;  but  no  better  place  could  be  obtained  at  the 
time.  It  was  erected  in  1840,  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
Eev.  W.  Bannister,  and  is  well  attended  by  the  labourins:  popu- 
lation of  the  surrounding  estates.  We  have  no  resident  Minister 
on  this  station ;  but  we  succeeded  in  establishing  a  day  school 
soon  after  the  erection  of  the  chapel,  notwithstanding  some  op- 
position with  which  we  had  at  first  to  contend  from  the 
remaining  prejudices  against  education. 

BiABOU  was  formerly  the  head  of  the  Windward  Circuit,  and 
as  such  for  many  years  appeared  on  the  list  of  principal  stations  • 
but  it  has  recently  been  placed  in  a  secondary  position,  to  meet 
the  arrangements  required  by  change  of  circumstances.  The 
Mission-House  and  chapel  occupy  an  elevated  and  romantic  situ- 
ation on  a  bold  promontory  facing  the  sea.  The  prospect  in 
every  direction  is  of  a  charming  character.  At  a  considerable 
distance  in  the  vast  expansive  ocean,  may  be  seen  several  of  the 
Grenadines,  with  their  chalky  cliffs  glittering  in  the  sun  ;  while 
on  the  coast  of  St.  Vincent  a  line  of  milk-white  foam  is  con- 
stantly seen  on  either  hand,  as  the  mighty  waves  perpetually 
break  on  the  rocky  strand ;  'beyond  which  appear,  in  striking 
contrast,  numerous  buildings,  extensive  fields  of  sugar-cane, 
tropical  trees,  and  towering  mountains,  with  the  narrow  road 
winding  along  a  most  precipitous  course.  There  is  a  small  bay 
at  Biabou,  where  vessels  anchor  to  land  stores  and  take  in  pro- 
duce ;  but  it  is  very  dangerous,  and  during  our  residence  there 
we  frequently  saw  boats  upset  and  vessels  dashed  to  pieces  on 
the  rocks  near  our  dwelling.  This  station  stands  quite  isolated ; 
but  although  unconnected  with  any  village,  it  is  situated  iu  the 
neighbourhood  of  several  large  estates,  and  the  public  services 
are  well  attended.  The  chapel  is  a  strong  frame  building,  and 
will  seat  about  four  hundred  persons.  A  day  school  is  taught 
here  also,  which  has  been  made  a  blessing  to  the  neigh boufiiood. 

Chateaubellair  is  now  the  head  of  the  Leeward  Circuit. 
It  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  Souffriere  mouutain,  on  the  leeward 


328  PAUT   II. THE    WEST    INDIES. 

side  of  the  island,  and  is  central  to  n  hrp^e  population.  The 
chapel  has  been  enlarged  and  improved,  and  will  now  accomrao- 
date  a  congregation  of  about  eight  hundred  persons.  The 
Mission-House  also  is  a  commodious  residence,  having  been 
recently  renovated  and  put  in  good  repair,  and  a  day  school  is 
in  active  operation.  The  resident  ^linister  visits  Hope  Mount 
and  other  places,  travelling  frequently  by  water  in  a  small  boat 
or  canoe,  exposed  to  considerable  danger ;  but  hitherto  the  Lord 
has  graciously  preserved  His  servants. 

Barrowallie  is  an  ancient  village  also  on  the  leeward  coast, 
central  to  a  number  of  large  su"ar  estates,  and  about  ten  miles 
from  Kingstown.  It  is  favoured  with  a  resident  Minister,  a 
good  chapel  which  will  seat  about  five  hundred  persons,  and  a 
prosperous  day  school,  notwithstanding  the  difficulties  with 
which  it  has  had  to  contend. 

Layou  is  a  neat  little  village  at  the  foot  of  a  fertile  valley,  in 
which  are  situated  several  large  estates,  about  four  miles  from  the 
capital.  No  station  in  the  island  has  a  more  interesting  mis- 
sionary history  than  this  ;  but  want  of  space  forbids  our  entering 
into  particulars.  Preaching  was  first  commenced  in  the  house 
of  Harriet  Gardner, — a  "mother  in  Israel,"  who  was  a  faithful 
helper  of  the  ^lissionaries  in  their  good  work.  The  hurricane 
of  1831  deprived  her  of  all  her  property;  but  she  was  faithful 
unto  death.  During  the  cholera  of  1854  nearly  every  Leader 
died  ;  but  their  places  have  been  supplied  by  others,  and  the  work 
still  goes  on.  A  substantial  chapel  w^as  erected  here  in  1839  by 
the  late  Eev.  John  Blackwell,  and  a  day  school  has  for  some  time 
been  in  active  operation. 

The  island  of  St.  Vincent  is  thus  nearly  encircled  with  a 
chain  of  Mission  Stations,  and  although,  in  common  with  other 
West  India  Missions,  the  cause  has  suff'ered  much  from  the 
ravages  of  cholera,  continued  and  excessive  drought,  and  High- 
Church  influence,  we  still  number,  three  Circuits,  six  Mission- 
arieSy  eleven  chapels,  ffty-tvjo  other  preaching  places,  three 
thousand  church  members,  nine  hundred  scholars,  and  ten  thou- 
sand attendants  on  public  worship. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

THE  ISLAND    OF  GRENADA. 

The  Grenadines — Appearance  of  Grenada — Settled  by  the  French — War  oi 
Extermination — Captured  by  the  English — Towns  and  Villages — 
Aspect  of  the  Country — Population — Religion  and  Morals — Wesleyan 
Missions — Dr.  Coke's  Visits — Progress  of  the  Work — Missionary  Tour 
round  the  Island — Education — Native  Agency— Christian  Liberality — 
Mission  Stations — St.  George's — AYoburn — Constantine — La  Baye — ■ 
Carriacou. 

In  sailing  from  St.  A^incent's  to  Grenada,  the  course  lies 
directly  to  leeward  of  a  number  of  romantic  little  islands  called 
'^he  Grenadines ;  the  principal  of  which  are  Eequia,  Baliseau, 
Mostique,  Conouan,  Union,  Carriacau,  and  Isle  de  lionde. 
These  are  inhabited  by  planters,  small  farmers,  fishermen,  and 
labourers,  who  number  upwards  of  eight  thousand;  and 
would  afford  a  useful  sphere  of  labour  for  a  Missionary,  could 
one  be  appointed  to  itinerate  among  them.  We  have  a  few 
church  members  resident  in  some  of  them,  who  have  been  occa- 
sionally visited  by  a  Minister;  but  the  state  of  the  Society's 
funds  have  not  hitherto  warranted  the  commencement  of  a  new- 
Mission  in  that  portion  of  the  great  field.  The  Grenadines  be- 
long in  part  to  the  government  of  St.  Vincent's,  and  in  part  to 
that  of  Grenada ;  and  are  duly  represented  in  their  respective 
Houses  of  Assembly.  When  sailing  along  in  fine  weather  in 
sight  of  these  lovely  little  green  spots,  surrounded  by  the  deep 
blue  sea,  the  prospect  presented  to  the  view  is  one  of  exquisite 
beauty,  and  would  afford  an  appropriate  subject  for  the  pencil 
of  the  artist,  or  the  song  of  the  poet. 

On  making  the  island  of  Grenada,  the  aspect  of  the  western 
coast  is  somewhat  barren  and  dreary,  the  shore  being  of  a  rocky 
and  rugged  character,  and  the  highlands  covered  with  trees  and 
brushwood  of  stunted  growth.     When  the  vessel   proceeds  a 


330  PART    II. THE    WEST    INDIES. 

little  farther,  however,  the  prospect  improves  ;  the  lovely  and' 
fertile  valley  of  Duquesne  opens  to  the  view ;  the  neat  little  vil- 
lages of  Sauteurs,  Grand-Pova,  and  Gouyave  are  seen  ;  and 
numerous  estates,  with  highly  cultivated  lands,  lie  extended 
before  the  eye  of  the  voyager.  On  rounding  a  projecting  point 
of  land,  the  harbour  and  town  of  St.  George  suddenly  burst 
upon  the  view ;  and  whether  you  come  to  anchor  in  the  bay,  or 
go  round  to  the  Carnage,  the  prospect  is  one  of  peculiar  beauty. 
The  town  is  built  on  rising  ground,  and  is  seen  by  the  stranger 
to  great  advantage.  It  forms  a  grand  amphitheatre,  not  of 
mountains  merely,  but  of  streets,  and  mansions,  and  gardens, 
interspersed  with  cocoa-nut  and  other  tropical  trees  of  richest 
green.  In  the  distance,  towering  above  the  whole,  may  be  seen 
Eichmond  Hill,  with  its  fortifications  and  barracks,  on  the  one 
hand,  and  Hospital  Hill,  with  its  ruined  battery,  on  the  other. 
The  town  is  divided  into  two  compartments  by  an  elevated 
ridge,  which  terminates  with  Fort  George,  on  a  narrow  promon- 
tory facing  the  sea ;  and  altogether  the  view  from  the  shipping 
in  the  harbour  is  of  a  charming  character. 

I  had  previously  visited  the  island  at  different  times,  when  on 
Wednesday,  the  10th  of  March,  1841,  I  arrived  in  the  colony, 
to  take  up  ray  residence  among  the  people,  having  been  ap- 
pointed to  the  station  by  the  preceding  Conference.  We  were 
kindly  received  by  the  Eev.  John  Wood,  my  worthy  predecessor, 
and  his  excellent  wife,  who  were  about  to  proceed  to  England ; 
and  we  entered  upon  our  labours  with  a  pleasing  prospect  of 
success.  Before  I  proceed  to  relate  the  particulars  connected 
with  the  rise  and  progress  of  our  Mission,  and  of  my  personal 
labours  while  resident  in  the  island,  I  take  the  liberty  of  present- 
ing to  the  reader  a  brief  historical  and  descriptive  sketch  of  this 
lovely  country. 

The  island  of  Grenada  is  situated  in  latitude  12^^  30'  north, 
and  longitude  62°  20'  w^est.  It  is  the  most  southerly  of  the 
Antilles,  or  the  last  of  the  range  of  islands  generally  denominated 
the  Caribbees,  and  lies  only  eighty  miles  distant  from  Trinidad 
and  the  Spanish  Main.  It  was  discovered  by  Columbus  during, 
his  third  voyage  in  1498,  and  was  found  to  be  inhabited  by  a 
warlike  race  of  Caribs,  whom  the  Spaniards  left  in  quiet  posses- 


CHAP.    V. — THE    ISLAND    OF    GRENADA.  331 

sion  of  tlieir  country,  without  attempting  to  form  any  settlement 
among  them. 

In  the  year  1650,  the  restless  and  ambitious  Du  Parquet, 
Governor  of  Martinique, fitted  out  an  expedition  against  the  island, 
consisting  of  about  two  hundred  adventurers,  whom  he  caused 
to  receive  the  Holy  Sacrament  before  they  embarked  on  their 
enterprise  of  cruelty  and  blood.  On  tlie  arrival  of  the  Frencli 
in  Grenada  they  erected  a  cross,  and  again  performed  some 
superstitious  ceremony,  as  if  to  sanctify  tlie  work  of  destruction 
on  which  they  were  bent.  To  their  surprise,  however,  the  in- 
vaders were  received  by  the  poor  natives  with  a  degree  of 
civility  which  caused  them  to  alter  their  plan  of  proceeding;  and 
they  entered  into  negotiations  for  the  purchase  of  the  country, 
instead  of  taking  it  by  force.  According  to  their  own  historian, 
Du  Tertre,  "  They  gave  some  knives,  hatchets,  and  a  large 
quantity  of  glass  beads,  besides  two  bottles  of  brandy  for  the 
Chief  himself;  and  thus  the  island  was  fairly  ceded  by  the  natives 
themselves,  to  the  French  nation  in  lawful  purchase." 

The  Caribs,  however,  appear  to  have  looked  upon  the 
hatchets,  knives,  beads,  and  brandy,  as  a  mere  present ;  for 
they  absolutely  refused  to  surrender  their  country  to  the 
strangers.  This  refusal  gave  occasion  to  one  of  the  most  cruel 
wars  of  extermination  which  stains  the  pages  of  the  early  history 
of  colonization.  The  natives  were  massacred  by  scores  and 
hundreds  ;  and  although  they  offered  a  most  vigorous  resistance, 
they  were  overpowered  by  the  destructive  influence  of  powder 
and  ball,  and  their  enemies  prevailed.  In  one  of  their  raids  the 
French  found  eighty  Caribs,  who  had  taken  refuge  on  a  high 
promontory  overhanging  the  ocean.  They  were  immediately 
put  to  the  sword,  when  one  half  of  them  Avere  cruelly  murdered, 
and  the  rest  threw  themselves  headlong  down  the  precipice  and 
perished  in  the  sea.  On  another  occasion,  a  beautiful  Carib  girl 
was  taken  captive,  and  became  an  object  of  dispute  betAveen  two 
officers,  when  a  third  officer  came  up,  and  deliberately  shot  her 
through  the  head,  to  put  an  end  to  the  affair ! 

Having  entirely  destroyed  the  aboriginal  inhabitants,  the 
French  quarrelled  among  themselves,  and  a  civil  war  ensued,  la 
which  many  lives  were  lost.     When  peace  was  in  some  measure 


332  PART    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

restored,  a  Governor  was  sent  out  from  l^'rance ;  but  lie  acted 
with  such  despotic  authority  that  he  was  impeached,  tried,  con- 
demned, and  executed  by  a  party  of  colonists  so  completely 
illiterate  tliat  only  one  person  was  found  among  them  who 
could  write  his  own  name.  Fifty  years  after  the  arrival  of  the 
French,  the  colony  consisted  only  of  iifty-one  whites  and  fifty-three 
free  blacks  and  persons  of  colour,  and  tive  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  Negro  slaves;  while  the  cultivation  was  limited  to  two 
plantations  of  sugar,  and  fifty-two  of  indigo,  with  a  few  acres 
of  provision  grounds. 

Hitherto  the  colony  of  Grenada  had  been  held  as  private  pro- 
perty by  Count  de  Cerillac ;  but  in  1714  it  was  made  over  to 
the  French-African  West  India  Company,  to  whom  it  continued 
to  belong  till  that  body  w  as  dissolved,  when  it  became  the  pro- 
perty of  the  crown.  Under  these  new  arrangements  a  consider- 
able degree  of  prosperity  was  realized.  In  1762,  however,  the 
island  was  captured  by  the  English;  and  by  a  treaty  of  peace  in 
the  following  year,  Grenada  and  its  dependencies  were  ceded  in 
perpetuity  to  the  British  crown.  In  the  course  of  the  next  war, 
however,  in  1779,  the  French  once  more  became  masters  of  the 
island;  and  it  remained  in  their  possession  till  1783,  when  it 
was  finally  restored  to  us  by  an  article  in  the  treaty  for  general 
peace  between  Great  Britain,  France,  Spain,  and  America. 

A  few  years  after  the  colony  came  into  the  possession  of  the 
British  it  was  visited  by  an  awful  pestilence,  a  plague  of  ants,  a 
destructive  hurricane,  a  civil  war,  and  a  famine,  in  rapid  succes- 
sion, which  greatly  retarded  its  prosperity,  and  which  deserve  a 
passing  notice.  The  pestilence  was  in  the  form  of  epidemic 
yellow  fever,  and  hurried  several  thousands  out  of  time  into 
eternity.  This  had  scarcely  subsided  when  there  came  the  plague 
of  ants.  These  destructive  little  creatures  appeared  in  countless 
numbers,  and  laid  waste  every  sugar  plantation  within  a  radius 
of  twenty  miles,  and  threatened  ultimately  to  overrun  the  whole 
island.  Every  attempt  made  by  the  planters  to  put  a  stop  to 
their  ravages  proved  inetfectual ;  and  such  was  the  general  con- 
sternation, that  a  reward  of  twenty  thousand  pounds  was  offered 
by  the  Government  to  the  individual  who  should  discover  an 
effectual  remedy  for  the  evil.     So  liberal  an  offer  induced  many 


CHAP.    V. — THE    ISLAND    OF    GRENADA.  333 

to  try  their  utmost  to  destroy  the  ants,  and  although  all  suc- 
ceeded partially,  yet  none  gained  the  prize  ;  since  the  destruction 
of  a  few  myriads  availed  little,  their  places  being  immediately 
supplied  by  others.  Ranges  of  burning  charcoal  proved  very 
destructive,  as  the  invaders  blindly  pressed  forward  in  their 
march,  and  were  roasted  to  death ;  but  their  numbers  were  so 
vast  that  they  soon  extinguished  the  fire,  and  tlie  rear  of  the 
swarms  passed  scatheless  over  the  obstruction.  The  roads  were 
literally  covered  with  them  for  miles  together,  so  that  the  print 
of  the  horse's  foot,  in  passing  through  them,  was  covered  in  an 
instant  by  the  surrounding  multitudes. 

The  inhabitants  were  ultimately  relieved  from  this  scourge 
by  the  next  visitation,  which  was  that  of  an  appalling  hurricane. 
Many  houses  were  laid  in  ruins,  and  plantations  uprooted  by 
the  violence  of  the  tempest ;  but  at  tiie  same  time  the  ants' 
nests  were  exposed  to  the  deluge  of  rain  which  followed,  and 
the  swarms  perished ;  so  that  the  island  was  relieved  from  the 
plague  of  the  sugar  ant. 

Instead  of  gratitude  to  God  for  this  deliverance  there  arose 
among  the  French  residents  a  spirit  of  anarchy ;  and  the  country 
was  embroiled  in  a  civil  war,  the  particulars  of  Avhich  are 
scarcely  worthy  of  detail.  These  painful  circumstances,  together 
with  the  famine  that  followed,  caused  a  considerable  decrease  in 
the  population ;  and  it  was  not  until  the  commencement  of  the 
present  century  that  the  island  began  to  recover,  in  its  agricul- 
tural and  commercial  interests,  from  the  various  calamities 
Avhich  it  had  been  called  to  experience. 

There  is  nothing  very  remarkable  in  character  of  the  towns 
and  villages  of  Grenada.  St.  Geora^e's  is  the  capital  of  the 
colony,  the  appearance  of  which,  from  the  shipping  in  the 
harbour,  has  already  been  described.  It  is  a  neat  and  respect- 
able town,  with  a  population  of  about  five  thousand.  When 
first  ereeted,  the  houses  were  built  chiefly  of  wood  ;  but  a 
destructive  fire,  in  1771,  reduced  them  to  a  heap  of  ruins. 
After  this  they  were  re-built  more  generally  of  stone  and  brick, 
and  several  of  them  are  now  of  a  substantial  character.  The 
places  of  worship,  the  Court-house,  and  the  Government-house 
especially,  are  superior  buildings.     A  new  market-house   has 


334  PART    II. — THE    WEST   1^'DIES. 

l3een  erected  on  one  side  of  a  spacious  square,  surrounded  by 
beautiful  shady  trees,  which  is  an  ornament  to  the  place,  as  well 
as  a  convenience  to  the  inhabitants.  The  streets  are  steep  and 
hilly ;  and  walking  is  very  fatiguing  to  the  stranger,  till  he 
becomes  accustomed  to  the  place.  The  town  is  favoured  with 
splendid  harbours.  In  the  bay,  the  anchorage  is  good  ;  but  in 
the  careenage,  which  is  shut  in  by  projecting  points  of  land, 
vessels  are  secure  in  every  storm.  Gouyave,  Grand  Pova, 
Sauteurs,  and  Grenville  are  villages  in  different  parts  of  the 
island,  on  convenient  bays,  where  the  produce  is  shipped,  and 
where  stores  are  opened  to  supply  the  surrounding  country 
with  merchandise. 

The  topographical  aspect  of  the  country  varies  considerably. 
In  some  parts  of  the  island  the  scenery  is  bold  and  romantic, 
like  that  of  St.  Vincent ;  and  in  others  the  land  is  level  or 
undulating,  resembling  Earbadoes.  The  soil  is  generally  good; 
and  appears  well  adapted  for  sugar,  coffee,  cocoa,  and  cotton, 
as  well  as  for  ground  provisions,  which  are  produced  in  great 
abundance.  On  the  top  of  one  of  the  highest  mountains, 
called  the  Grand  Etang,  there  is  a  beautiful  lake,  of  considerable 
dimensions.  The  basin  which  forms  the  bed  of  the  lake  has 
every  appearance  of  a  crater,  and  v/as  probably  once  a  volcano. 
The  water  is  good ;  and  although  it  has  no  apparent  outlet,  it 
is  doubtless  the  real  source  of  most  of  the  beautiful  rivers  that 
water  this  lovely  island,  as  they  generally  take  their  rise  from 
a  number  of  small  streamlets  which  issue  from  the  sides  of  the 
mountain.  No  fishes  are  known  to  live  in  this  lake,  though, 
they  have  been  placed  there  repeatedly ;  but  the  rivers  and  sea- 
coast  abound  with  fish  of  the  most  excellent  quality. 

The  island  of  Grenada  is  about  twenty-three  miles  long,  and 
fifteen  broad  ;  and  the  entire  population  of  the  colony  and  its 
dependencies  may  be  estimated  at  thirty-three  thousand.  A 
large  number  of  the  inhabitants  are  of  African  descent.  The 
Europeans  are  chiefly  from  England  and  Scotland.  A  few 
years  ago  a  number  of  emigrants  were  brought  from  Malta  to 
■cultivate  the  ground ;  but  they  did  not  answer  the  purpose  for 
which  they  were  intended,  being  better  adapted  for  the  occupa- 
tions of  shopkeepers,  hucksters,   and  pedlars,  which  they  now 


CHAP.    V. THE    ISLAND    OF    GRENADA.  335 

chiefly  follow.  It  is  now  generally  admitted  that  Africans,  or 
the  descendants  of  Africans,  are  best  adapted  to  endure  the 
fatigue  of  field-labour  under  the  scorching  rays  of  a  tropical 
sun.  To  the  honour  of  Grenada  it  may  be  recorded,  that 
during  the  times  of  slavery  the  poor  Negroes  were  treated  with 
more  humanity  in  this  colony  than  in  most  of  the  other  West 
India  Islands.  Neither  were  the  free  blacks  and  persons  of 
colour  oppressed,  and  kept  down  in  this  place,  to  the  same 
extent  as  in  some  other  countries.  The  consequences  of  these 
advantages  are  seen  in  the  development  of  intellect,  and  in  the 
high  and  respectable  position  which  many  gentlemen  of  dark 
complexion  have  been  enabled  to  take,  with  credit  to  themselves, 
and  with  advantage  to  society,  since  the  glorious  era  of  emanci- 
pation. 

Although  the  sable  sons  of  Ham  were  treated  with  less 
rigour  here  than  in  many  other  places,  in  former  years, 
it  must  be  acknowledged  that  there  was  scarcely  any 
-regard  paid  to  their  spiritual  interests.  On  being  finally 
secured  to  the  British  Crown,  the  island  was  divided  into  five 
parishes ;  but  it  was  a  long  time  before  they  were  provided 
with  Ministers.  And  even  then,  the  Europeans,  who  were  the 
parties  generally  contemplated  in  these  ecclesiastical  arrange- 
ments, were  frequently  left  for  long  intervals  without  the  means 
of  religious  instruction,  whilst  the  poor  slaves  were  left  alto- 
gether out  of  the  ([uestion.  It  was  the  moral  and  spiritual 
destitution  of  this  island,  in  common  with  that  of  the  West 
Indies  generally,  which  led  the  apostolic  Dr.  Coke  to  pay  it  a 
missionary  visit,  towards  the  close  of  the  last  century. 

The  venerable  Doctor  landed  in  St.  George's,  on  Sunday,  the 
28th  of  November,  1790,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Baxter,  a  Mis- 
sionary from  St.  Vincent's.  They  first  waited  on  a  Mr.  Lynch, 
with  whom  they  had  some  acquaintance ;  and  then  proceeded 
to  the  parish  church,  where  they  found  the  pious  Eector,  the 
Eev.  Mr.  Dent,  preaching  with  energy  and  pathos  to  an  atten- 
tive congregation.*     After  the  service,  the  Missionaries  waited 

*  This  zealous  and  devoted  Minister  of  the  Church  of  England  mani- 
fested a  spirit  of  kindness  and  liberality  to  the  Wesleyan  Missionaries 
■worthy  of  special  notice.     Being  deeply  conscious  of  the  spiritual  destitu- 


336  PART   II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

on  the  Clero^yman  in  the  vestry,  and  were  received  with  every 
mark  of  Christian  kindness.  In  the  evening  Dr.  Coke  preached 
in  a  large  room  to  a  crowded  audience  ;  and  notwithstanding  an 
attempt  which  was  made  by  one  or  two  wicked  yonng  men  to 
create  a  disturbance,  they  appeared  deeply  interested  in  the 
discourse.  At  the  close  of  the  service  a  pious  young  man  of 
colour,  named  Painter,  who  had  heard  the  Gospel  in  Antigua, 
was  introduced  to  the  Missionaries ;  and  the  pleasing  discovery 
was  made  that  several  persons  with  serious  impressions  were 
already  united  in  a  kind  of  religious  society,  under  the  direction 
of  this  young  disciple.  These  inquirers  pleaded  earnestly  for 
the  appointment  of  a  Missionary  ;  and  in  this  request  they  were 
joined  by  persons  of  almost  every  grade  in  the  community.  On. 
the  following  morning,  at  six  o'clock,  Mr.  Baxter  preached  ta 
a  good  congregation,  at  the  close  of  which  the  Doctor  gave  an 
exhortation,  promising,  if  possible,  to  send  them  a  teacher. 
The  Missionaries  then  took  their  leave  of  St.  George's,  and 
commenced  their  journey  over  tlie  Grand  Etang,  on  a  visit  to 
John  Eae,  Esq.,  who  resided  on  the  Avindward  side  of  the 
island.  They  were  much  delighted  with  the  mountain  scenery 
of  the  interior,  as  well  as  with  the  kindness  and  hospitality  of 
the  planters  by  whom  they  were  entertained.  The  next  day 
they  crossed  over  to  Gouyave,  and  embarked  for  Antigua,  greatly 
encouraged  by  the  promising  openings  which  presented  them- 
selves for  the  wider  diffusion  of  the  Gospel  in  Greriada. 

In  the  year  1791   the  island  was  visited  by  the  Eev.  Mr. 

tiou  of  the  colony,  and  of  the  utter  inabihty  of  his  own  Church  to  make 
adequate  provision  to  meet  the  case,  he  hailed  the  arrival  of  Dr.  Coke  and 
his  associates  with  feelings  of  joy,  and  afforded  them  every  assistance  in  his 
power.  He  also  afterwards  corresponded  freely  with  the  Doctor  on  all 
matters  pertaining  to  the  welfare  of  the  Mission ;  and  when  the  island  was 
occasionally  left  without  a  Missionary,  in  consequence  of  sickness  or  death, 
he  did  his  utmost  to  keep  the  people  together  till  one  should  arrive.  He 
remained  a  firm  friend  to  AVesleyan  Methodism,  even  in  the  midst  of  perse- 
cution, till  the  day  of  his  death,  which  occurred  after  he  had  returned  to 
England  in  1804.  Mr.  Hallett,  the  Parish  Clerk,  was  also  a  zealous 
labourer  in  the  Lord's  vineyard.  He  was  called  of  God  to  ascend  from 
the  desk  to  the  pulpit,  and  after  labouring  for  several  years  sa  a  Wesleyan 
Minister,  he  finished  his  course  with  joy. 


CUAP.    v.— THE    ISLAND    OF    GRENADA.  337 

Owen,  a Wesleyan Missionary  from  St.  Vincent's;  and  such  was 
the  esteem  in  which  he  was  held  by  General  Matthews,  the 
Governor,  during  the  brief  period  of  his  sojourn,  that  he  oifered 
him  the  living  of  Carriacou,  with  a  handsome  salary,  on  the 
condition  that  he  would  relinquish  his  present  vocation,  and 
submit  to  episcopal  ordination.  This  offer  the  humble  Mis- 
sionary courteously  declined,  prefemng  to  dwell  among  his  own 
people.  On  the  7th  of  January,  1793,  Dr.  Coke  returned  to 
Grenada,  accompanied  by  the  Eev.  A.  Bishop,  a  Missionary 
who  was  selected  for  this  particular  field  of  labour  in  conse- 
quence of  his  knowledge  of  the  French  language,  which  was 
then  in  common  use  among  a  certain  class  of  the  colonists. 
After  spending  about  a  week  in  the  island  in  various  useful 
labours,  the  zealous  Doctor  took  his  departure,  leaving  the  new 
Missionary  to  prosecute  his  evangelical  work. 

The  efforts  of  Mr.  Bishop  to  evangelize  the  people  were 
attended  with  considerable  good  among  the  English ;  but  not 
among  the  French,  as  was  at  iirst  expected.  This  man  of  God 
was  much  devoted  to  his  work ;  but  his  day  was  short.  He 
had  originally  gone  out  as  a  Missionary  to  Canada,  to  labour 
among  the  French-speaking  people  of  that  colony,  and  was 
removed  to  the  West  Indies  on  account  of  the  failure  of  his 
health.  After  a  short  sojourn  in  Barbadoes  he  came  to  Grenada ; 
but  he  had  only  laboured  six  months  in  the  island  when  he  was 
seized  with  fever,  and  died,  after  five  days'  illness,  in  the  faith 
and  hope  of  the  Gospel. 

Shortly  after  the  lamented  death  of  Mr.  Bishop,  the  Eev.  E. 
Pattison  arrived  from  Antigua ;  and  having  supplied  the  vacant 
station  for  a  few  months,  he  was  succeeded  by  the  Eev.  B. 
Pearce,  a  man  of  untiring  zeal  and  energy.  This  devoted  Mis- 
sionary, having  commenced  his  labours  with  a  pleasing  prospect 
of  success,  embarked  for  Barbadoes,  to  settle  his  affairs,  and  to 
bring  his  family  to  Grenada ;  but  he  was  taken  ill  and  died  at 
sea,  in  the  month  of  April,  1794.  The  station  was  thus  once 
more  left  without  a  Missionary ;  and  for  several  years  afterward 
was  only  supplied  occasionally  with  ministerial  labour,  and  with 
such  service  as  Mr.  Hallett,  the  pious  Parish  Clerk,  could  render, 
previous  to  his  call  to  the  missionary  work.     Although  the  few 

z 


338  PABT   II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

wlio  made  a  profession  of  religion  were  generally  faithful,  tlie 
mass  of  the  people  were  deeply  immersed  in  Popish  ignorance 
and  superstition.  The  difficulty  of  communicating  religious 
instruction  was  increased  by  their  peculiar  dialect,  which  was  a 
strange  compound  of  French  and  English  ;  as  well  as  by  the 
political  ferment  in  which  the  country  was  kept  for  several 
years,  in  consequence  of  the  insurrectionary  movements  of  the 
French  colonists. 

When  peace  was  once  more  restored  to  the  colony,  repeated 
attempts  were  made  to  re-establish  the  Grenada  Mission.  In 
1805  the  Eev.  W.  Sturgeon  was  appointed  to  labour  in  the 
island,  and  was  soon  enabled  to  report  an  addition  to  the 
Society  of  ten  members,  making  at  that  time  a  total  of  one 
hundred.  But  his  promising  career  was  soon  brought  to  a 
close.  He  had  not  laboured  many  months  in  the  colony  when 
he  was  taken  ill,  and  embarked  for  Tortola,  with  the  hope  that  a 
change  of  air  would  promote  his  recovery.  This  hope  was  not 
realized,  however ;  for  he  became  worse,  and  died  at  sea, 
very  happy  in  God,  on  the  lltli  of  April,  1806.  Two  years 
afterwards  the  Rev.  John  Willis  arrived  from  England,  and 
laboured  with  zeal  and  diligence  in  collecting  the  scattered 
flock,  and  in  seeking  to  bring  sinners  to  Christ. 

In  1814  the  Eev.  M.  C.  Dixon  was  .appointed  to  Grenada, 
and  was  made  the  instrument  of  good,  not  only  to  the  slaves, 
but  also  to  their  masters,  and  to  persons  moving  in  the  higher 
w^alks  of  society.  It  was  during  his  sojourn  in  the  island,  that 
His  Honour  Kichard  Otley,  Esq.,  Chief  Justice  of  the  Colony, 
when  suffering  under  a  painful  domestic  affl.iction,  came  to  the 
Missionary  for  counsel  and  consolation.  The  result  of  this 
interview,  and  the  religious  conversation  which  followed,  was 
that  His  Honour  was  brought  to  a  saving  acquaintance  with  the 
truth  as  it  is  in  Jesus,  became  a  member  of  the  Wesleyan 
Society,  and  the  Leader  of  a  small  class  of  black  and  coloured 
people.  A  circumstance  so  unusual  excited  considerable  atten- 
tion at  the  time,  and  perhaps  had  some  influence  on  the  higher 
classes,  who  henceforth  countenanced  and  supported  our  Mission 
to  an  extent  which  was  not  known  in  other  parts  of  the  West  Indies. 
The  Chief  Justice,  as  a  matter  of  course,  exposed  himself  to  a 


CHAP.   V. — THE    ISLAND    OF    GRENADA.  339 

measure  of  ridicule  and  sarcasm  in  some  quarters,  but  this  he 
regarded  not ;  but  both  in  Grenada  and  in  the  East  Indies,  to 
which  country  he  afterwards  removed,  he  proved  himself  the 
faithful  friend  of  Wesleyan  Missions. 

Mr.  Dixon  was  succeeded  in  1816  by  the  Eev.  William  Lill, 
who  bade  fair  to  sustain  the  reputation  of  the  Mission,  being  a 
young  man  of  superior  pulpit  talents,  as  well  as  of  engaging 
manners  and  gentlemanly  bearing.  But  in  the  midst  of  his 
useful  labours,  when  his  excellencies  were  becoming  more  and 
more  appreciated,  he  was  taken  to  his  heavenly  reward,  and  the 
station  was  once  more  left  without  a  Missionary. 

In  1818  the  Eev.  VV.  J.  Shrewsbury  arrived  in  Grenada,  and 
entered  upon  his  labours  with  zeal  and  prudence,  and  with  a 
fair  prospect  of  success.  In  the  month  of  June  he  was  joined 
by  the  Eev.  W.  D.  Goy,  whose  appointment  to  this  station  was 
made  under  peculiar  circumstances.  Mr.  Goy  had  embarked  in 
February  for  Dominica ;  but,  in  company  with  the  Eev.  James 
Fowler,  suffered  shipwreck  off  the  coast  of  France.  Having 
been  mercifully  delivered  from  the  dangers  of  the  deep,  the 
Missionaries  returned  to  London  to  make  a  fresh  start  for  the 
West  Indies.  One  morning,  whilst  the  Committee  were  deli- 
berating in  reference  to  the  matter,  a  letter  was  received  from 
the  late  Joseph  Butterworth,  Esq.,  M.P.,  enclosing  one  from  the 
Hon.  John  Eoss,  of  Grenada,  stating  that  Mr.  Shrewsbury  had 
■visited  one  or  two  of  his  estates,  and  making  liberal  offers  of 
support,  if  the  Society  would  send  another  Missionary  to  Gre- 
nada, that  his  people,  and  those  on  estates  for  which  he  was 
attorney,  might  be  more  fully  supplied  with  religious  instruction. 
To  meet  this  call  it  was  at  once  decided  that  Mr.  Goy  should  go 
to  Grenada.  He  embarked  accordingly,  and  arrived  at  St. 
George's  in  the  month  of  June.  The  two  Missionaries  being 
of  one  mind  and  heart,  arranged  their  plans  of  usefulness,  and 
formed  all  the  villages  and  estates  to  which  they  had  access, 
amounting  to  fourteen  or  fifteen  in  number,  into  a  regular  Cir- 
cuit ;  and  to  enable  them  to  accomplish  their  work  effectually, 
Mr.  Eoss,  with  his  usual  liberality,  made  them  a  present  of  a 
Circuit  horse.  After  the  removal  of  Mr.  Shrewsbury  to  Barba- 
does,  'iJLr.  Cheeswright  took  his  place,  and  was  made  very  use- 

z  2 


340  PART    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

ful  during  the  time  that  he  laboured  in  the  island,  and  on  his 
departure  was  succeeded  by  the  Rev.  W.  Squire.  Soon  after 
this,  B.  Hewitson,  Esq.,  and  other  gentlemen  on  the  windward 
side  of  the  island,  having  written  to  the  Committee,  asking  for  a 
Missionary  for  that  district,  and  promising  support  to  a  con- 
siderable extent,  the  Rev.  J.  Edmondson  was  appointe;!  to  St. 
George's,  to  labour  with  Mr.  Squire,  and  Mr.  Goy  took  up  his 
residence  in  the  windward  district,  and  thus  the  island  had 
three  Missionaries.  Mr.  Goy  laboured  in  his  new  sphere  with 
exemplary  diligence,  visiting  the  respective  estates,  establisliing 
a  cause  at  Grenville,  and  was  undoubtedly  made  a  blessing  to 
many.  On  his  removal  from  Grenada,  after  a  residence  of 
nearly  seven  years,  Mr.  Goy  was  succeeded  in  the  windward 
district  by  the  Rev.  Thorn ns  Murray ;  but  the  results  not  being 
satisfactory  to  the  next  Superintendent,  the  Missionary  was 
withdrawn,  and  that  part  of  the  island  was  left  without  a  minis- 
terial supply  for  many  years,  as  will  be  seen  in  the  course,  of  our 
narrative. 

In  after  years  the  above-named  Missionaries  were  succeeded 
by  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Payne,  Mortier,  Rathbone,  Eiddler,  Briddon, 
Aldis,  Beard,  Wood,  and  others,  who  laboured  more  or  less  suc- 
cessfully ;  and  several  of  whom  are  still  remembered  with  affec- 
tion by  our  old  people.  It  would  be  very  pleasant  to  dwell  on 
the  missionary  history  of  each  of  these  dear  brethren,  did  the 
limits  of  this  brief  sketch  permit,  especially  as  some  of  them  are 
numbered  among  my  personal  friends  and  fellow  labourers  in 
the  Mission  field ;  but  I  must  now  proceed  to  give  some  parti- 
culars of  the  island  as  I  found  it,  and  of  the  measures  afterwards 
adopted  to  promote  the  interest  of  the  Redeemer's  kingdom. 

On  my  appointment  to  labour  as  a  Missionary  in  Grenada  in 
the  year  1841,  many  of  the  obstacles  to  the  progress  of  the 
work  of  God  already  alluded  to  had  been  removed.  The 
days  of  slavery  had  passed  away,  a  greater  proportion  of  the 
people  understood  the  English  language,  and  the  whole  country 
was  open  to  the  free  promulgation  of  the  Gospel,  without  let  or 
hindrance.  All  that  appeared  to  be  necessary  was  a  more 
ample  supply  of  labourers  to  cultivate  the  field  ;  but  although  I 
was  the  only  Missionary  in  the  island,  I  resolved,  in  the  name 


CHAP.    V. — THE    ISLAND    OF    GRENADA,  341 

tind  strength  of  the  Lord,  to  attempt  the  extension  of  the  work, 
which  at  this  time  was  limited  to  St.  George's  and  two  out- 
stations,  Constantine  and  Woburn,  both  of  which  were  within 
four  miles  of  the  town.  The  places  formerly  visited  by  the 
Missionaries  on  the  windward  side  of  the  island  had  been  relin- 
quished several  years  before,  in  consequence  of  want  of  fruit, 
lack  of  funds,  or  the  pressing  difficulties  of  the  times ;  and 
Grenada  had  once  more  become  a  station  for  only  one  Mis- 
sionary. But  although  I  had  no  ministerial  colleague,  I  was 
peculiarly  favoured  in  having  the  assistance  and  co-operation  of 
two  or  three  zealous  and  devoted  Local  Preachers,  young  men 
of  colour,  who  had  not  only  received  the  Gospel  themselves,  but 
who  felt  called  to  proclaim  it  to  others,  according  to  the  ability 
which  God  had  given.  Under  these  circumstances,  it  appeared 
to  me  that  the  time  was  come  when  we  ought  to  endeavour  to 
do  something  for  the  more  remote  and  neglected  parts  of  this 
•interesting  island.  1  therefore  resolved  upon  a  tour  of  observa- 
tion. 

On  tlie  morning  of  Friday,  the  14th  of  May,  I  set  out  in 
company  with  two  friends,  Messrs.  Brown  and  Wharton,  and 
we  rode  to  Gouyave,  a  distance  of  twelve  miles,  before  break- 
fast. This  is  a  neat  little  village  close  to  the  sea,  in  the  parish 
of  St.  John.  I  observed  a  Protestant  church  in  a  very  dilapi- 
dated state,  and  a  rectory ;  but  was  informed  that  the  parish  was 
without  a  Clergyman.  The  Koman  Catholic  system  was  in  full 
operation,  having  a  neat  little  chapel  and  an  active  Priest.  After 
taking  some  refreshment,  and  making  a  few  inquiries,  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  journey.  At  a  distance  of  about  four  miles 
further,  we  passed  through  Grand  Pova,  another  little  village, 
with  a  substantial  Protestant  chapel,  but  no  Minister.  About 
four  o'clock  P.M.  we  came  to  Eecourse  Estate,  in  Duquesne 
Valley,  where  we  were  kindly  received  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fair- 
clough,  who  had  long  been  desiring  our  visit,  that  we  might 
make  arrangements  for  the  religious  instruction  of  their  people. 

Having  rested  during  the  day  on  Saturday,  we  all  proceeded 
^on  Sunday  morning  to  the  village  of  Sauteurs,  where  I  preached 
in  the  Court-house,  which  was  kindly  granted  by  the  authorities 
ifor  the  occasion.     The  day  was  fine,  and  a  large  congregation 


342  PART   II. —  THE    WEST   INDIES. 

assembled,  consisting  of  all  classes  of  the  community,  from  the- 
liigliest  functionary  in  the  parish  to  the  poorest  peasant.  Prom 
the  marked  attention  which  the  people  paid  to  the  word 
preached,  I  was  led  to  entertain  a  hope  that  lasting  good  might 
be  the  result.  Here  again  we  met  with  an  excellent  new  Pro- 
testant church ;  but  it  has  no  Minister  to  instruct  the  people. 
The  church  is  built  upon  a  narrow  neck  of  land,  terminating  in 
a  bold  promontory,  the  foot  of  which  is  washed  by  the  rolling- 
billows  of  the  ocean.  It  was  down  this  very  precipice  that 
forty  Caribs  dashed  themselves  headlong  in  1650,  when  pursued 
by  the  French.  I  gazed  upon  the  spot  with  peculiar  feelings, 
and  could  hardly  refrain  from  tears  at  the  recollection  of  the 
cruelties  which  have  so  frequently  attended  European  coloniza- 
tion. In  the  evening  I  preached  to  a  good  congregation  in 
Mr.  Pairclough's  school-room,  in  Duquesne  Valley. 

On  Monday  morning  we  proceeded  on  our  tour  round  the 
island.  In  the  afternoon  we  dined  with  George  Patterson,  Esq., 
at  Conference  Estate,  and  then  ha  stened  on  to  La  Baye,  where 
we  arrived  about  sunset.  With  only  half-an-hour's  notice  we 
had  a  good  congregation,  and  I  preached  in  the  dwelling-house 
of  Mr.  Eobert  Pletcher  from,  "  God  be  merciful  to  me  a  sinner.'^ 
The  presence  of  the  Lord  w^as  felt,  and  we  received  a  token  for 
good.  A.  kind  friend,  unknown  to  us,  provided  us  with  lodgings, 
and  Divine  Providence  seemed  to  prepare  the  way  before  us. 
The  following  morning  we  held  a  prayer-meeting  at  six  o'clock, 
when  a  goodly  number  attended.  Grenville,  which  stands  on 
La  Baye,  is  a  considerable  village.  Like  several  other  places 
through  which  we  passed,  it  had  a  good  Protestant  church,  but 
no  Minister.  Although  densely  populated,  this  part  of  the 
island  was  totally  destitute  of  the  means  of  evangelical  instruc- 
tion. Several  of  the  inhabitants  remembered  the  labours  of  the 
Bev.  Messrs.  Goy  and  Murray,  and  deeply  regretted  the  with- 
drawal of  the  Missionaries  from  this  neighbourhood.  They 
were  earnest  in  their  entreaties  that  I  would  visit  them  again, 
which  I  promised  to  do,  if  possible.  We  returned  to  town 
through  the  parish  of  St.  David,  which  has  a  good  church  and  a 
Minister ;  the  first  Protestant  Clergyman  we  had  met  with  in  our 
whole  tour.     The  distance  w^e  travelled  this  day  was  twenty-twa 


CHAP.    Y. THE    ISLAXD    OF    GRENADA.  343 

miles,  tlirougli  a  beautiful  and  fertile  country  with  an  undu- 
lating surface.  We  reached  St.  George's  in  the  evening,  some- 
what fatigued,  but  thankful  to  God  for  His  preserving  goodness  ; 
having  made  a  complete  circuit  of  the  island  during  the  four 
days  we  had  been  from  home. 

The  impression  made  upon  my  mind  by  this  journey  round 
the  island,  as  to  the  spiritual  destitution  of  the  people,  the 
friendly  disposition  of  the  planters,  and  tlie  providential  open- 
ings which  presented  themselves,  was  such  as  to  induce  me  to 
resolve  upon  a  strenuous  effort  to  extend  our  labours  to  these 
neglected  districts.  In  this  view  I  was  nobly  supported  by  the 
Local  Preachers,  who  expressed  their  readiness  to  take  their  full 
share  of  work,  both  in  town  and  country.  We  felt  so  much  encou- 
raged with  the  prospect  of  good  at  Duquesne  and  La  Baye,  that 
we  arranged  at  once  to  give  preaching  to  each  place  every  alter- 
nate Sabbath ;  and  we  commenced  our  arduous  labours  with 
confident  hopes  of  success.  At  Duquesne  we  succeeded  lor  a 
time  beyond  our  most  sanguine  expectations.  We  held  our 
meetings  in  the  school-room,  which  Mr,  Pairclough  fitted  up  as 
a  place  of  worship,  with  pulpit,  seats,  and  lamps  complete.  The 
infant  school  was  tauglit  by  one  of  our  members  from  St. 
George's  ;  a  promising  little  society  was  formed ;  and  I  had  rea- 
son to  believe  that  several  of  the  members  were  the  subjects  of 
the  saving  grace  of  God,  although  they  had  previously  been 
addicted  to  all  the  follies  of  Popish  superstition.  In  conse- 
quence of  the  lamented  death  of  Mr.  Fairclough,  and  other  un- 
toward events,  this  station  was  relinquished  in  after  years ;  but 
I  entertain  the  pleasing  hope  that  our  humble  labours  at  that 
period  will  ultimately  appear  not  to  have  been  in  vain  in  the 
Lord. 

At  La  Baye,  the  Magistrates  kindly  allowed  us  the  use  of  the 
Court-house  for  our  meetings  for  some  time  ;  and  we  afterwards 
hired  a  large  upper  room.  But  feeling  the  necessity  of  a  proper 
place  of  worship,  we  resolved  to  attempt  the  erection  of  a  small 
chapel,  although  we  knew  not  how  we  should  raise  adequate 
funds  for  the  purpose.  We  commenced  in  faith,  and  Divine 
Providence  opened  our  way  before  us.  We  made  our  appeal  to 
the  public ;   and  w^itnessed  such  a  flow  of  Christian  liberality  as 


344  PAllT   II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

I  have  never  seen  surpassed,  even  in  the  West  Indies.  On  the 
first  dajr  we  collected  £50 ;  and  the  amount  was  soon  increased 
to  -J8230, — the  entire  cost  of  the  erection, — so  that  no  debt  was 
allowed  to  remain  on  the  premises.  One  gentleman  sent  me  a 
donation  of  JBIO  on  retiring  from  the  first  service  which  he 
attended  in  our  hired  room ;  and  other  friends  came  forward  to 
our  help  in  a  most  gratifying  manner.  The  new  chapel  was 
soon  completed,  and  opened  for  Divine  service  under  the  most 
encouraging  circumstances.  We  also  organized  a  small  Christian 
society,  and  were  cheered  by  the  evidences  which  were  furnished 
of  a  real  work  of  grace  among  the  members. 

Whilst  these  efforts  were  being  made  for  the  extension  of  the 
work  to  the  more  remote  parts  of  the  island,  the  stations  in  the 
capital,  and  at  the  neighbouring  places,  were  regularly  supplied 
with  the  means  of  grace,  and  afforded  indubitable  evidences  of 
growing  prosperity.  The  congregations  at  St.  George's  were 
large  and  attentive  ;  and  a  Divine  imction  frequently  accom- 
panied the  preaching  of  the  word.  Several  of  the  hearers  were, 
moreover,  induced  to  give  themselves  to  the  Lord,  and  to 
become  more  closely  united  to  His  people.  The  Wesleyan 
chapel  was  attended  not  only  by  the  labouring  classes,  but  by 
all  ranks  of  the  community.  His  Honour  Chief  Justice  Sander- 
son rented  a  pew,  and  was  a  frequent  hearer ;  and  His  Honour 
the  President  and  Her  Majesty's  Attorney  General  attended 
occasionally,  as  well  as  several  members  of  the  House  of 
Assembly,  and  respectable  merchants  of  the  colony.  A  kind 
and  liberal  feeling  existed  among  persons  of  different  denomina- 
tions, and  everything  was  favourable  to  peace  and  prosperity. 

During  the  period  of  my  missionary  labours  in  Grenada,  we 
were  not  only  favoured  to  witness  the  blessed  results  of  a 
preached  Gospel,  but  also  a  cheering  measure  of  prosperity  in 
the  educational  department  of  our  work.  We  had  three  day 
schools  in  active  operation,  conducted  by  native  teachers  of 
respectable  talents;  and  the  advancement  of  the  children,  in 
various  branches  of  useful  information,  as  well  as  in  religious 
knowledge,  was  very  gratifying.  The  school  at  St.  George's 
was  of  a  superior  character;  and  I  have  seldom  met  with 
children,  in  any  country,  more  apt,  intelligent,  and  interesting 


CHAP.    V. — THE    ISLAND    OF    GRENADA.  345 

than  those  taught  in  this  establishment.  Several  of  the  elder 
scholars,  moreover,  gave  pleasing  evidence  of  youthful  piety; 
an  instance  or  two  of  which  may  now  be  given  : — 

Kebecca  Smith  Avas  a  little  girl  of  about  eleven  years  of  age, 
of  jet  black  complexion,  but  of  pleasing  countenance  and 
engaging  manners.  Her  parents  were  poor  but  pious  members 
of  our  church  in  St.  George's,  and  sent  their  children  from  their 
infancy  to  the  Mission  school,  where  little  Rebecca  learned  to 
read  her  Bible  with  fluency,  and  to  write  a  good  hand.  She 
had  for  some  time  given  evidence  of  seriousness,  and  had  taken 
her  part  in  the  school  anniversary,  reciting  her  pieces  with  a 
degree  of  pathos  and  feeling  which  attracted  the  notice  of  all 
present ;  when  she  came  to  me  one  day  requesting  permission 
to  meet  in  class.  I  talked  with  her  on  the  subject  of  personal 
religion,  and  of  the  love  of  Christ  to  little  children,  when  she 
was  much  affected,  and  wept  bitterly.  Being  satisfied  with  her 
sincerity,  she  was  received  as  a  candidate  for  church  member- 
ship. She  souglit  the  Lord  thus  early,  and  was  soon  made 
happy  in  the  Saviour's  love.  During  the  remainder  of  our  stay 
in  Grenada  she  gave  us  great  satisfaction  by  her  consistent 
walk  and  conversation.  She  was  fond  of  reading,  and  always 
p  erused  with  great  interest  the  little  books  which  were  sent 
from  England.  When  we  left  tlie  island  to  enter  upon  another 
sphere  of  labour,  little  Eebecca  was  greatly  troubled  ;  and  the 
last  time  that  I  saw  her  she  was  standing  upon  the  shore,  with 
many  others,  to  take  an  affectionate  leave  of  us  as  the  boat 
moved  off,  when  she  showed  that  her  heart  was  full  of  afiection 
.and  love  for  her  teachers.  About  twelve  months  afterwards 
Mrs.  Moister  received  a  beautiful  little  letter  from  her,  in  which 
she  said,  among  other  sweet  things,  "I  am  happy  to  say  that  I  am 
still  persuaded  to  follow  Christ  my  Saviour;  and  I  believe  that, 
if  I  am  faithful  unto  the  end,  I  shall  receive  a  crown  of  righteous- 
•ness,  which  my  Saviour  will  give  unto  me  in  the  last  day.^* 
Soon  afterwards  this  intelligent,  pious,  and  interesting  little 
black  girl  sickened  and  died ;  and  by  a  letter  which  I  received 
from  her  father,  I  was  happy  to  learn  that  she  passed  away  to  a 
brighter  and  better  world  above,  not  only  resigned  to  the  will  of 
■God,  but  triumphantly  happy  in  the  Saviour's  love. 


346  PART    II. THE    WEST    INDIES. 

At  an  early  period  of  our  residence  in  Grenada  we  also  losfe 
two  little  boys  belonging  to  the  Mission  school,  who  were  taken 
ill  with  fever,  and  both  died  happy  in  God,  on  the  same  day. 
All  the  scholars  attended  the  funeral ;  and  it  was  most  affect- 
ing to  look  upon  the  two  little  coffins,  as  they  were  brought 
into  the  chapel  at  the  same  time,  and  to  hear  the  sweet  voices 
of  the  children  singing  the  funeral  hymn,  as  they  stood  around 
the  remains  of  their  companions.  The  whole  service  was  of  a 
most  impressive  character ;  and  the  little  people  seemed  much 
affected  while  I  exhorted  them  to  remember  now  their  Creator 
in  the  days  of  their  youth. 

The  Wesleyan  Mission  in  Grenada  has  not  only  been  favoured 
with  the  ordinary  results  of  a  faithful  Gospel  Ministry ;  it  has 
had  the  additional  honour  of  furnishing  Native  Ministers  to 
labour  in  the  great  Mission  field.  Of  these  interesting  cases 
an  instance  or  two  may  be  given,  as  illustrative  of  the  best  kind 
of  fruit  of  missionary  labour,  and  as  specimens  of  the  success 
which  we  hope  to  realize  on  a  larger  scale  in  different  parts  of 
the  world. 

The  Eev.  Henry  Wharton  was  born  in  Grenada,  but  educated 
in  Scotland.  He  was  brought  to  a  saving  knowledge  of  the 
truth  soon  after  his  return  to  the  West  Indies ;  and  when  he 
first  attracted  my  attention,  I  felt  impressed  with  the  conviction 
that  the  Lord  had  a  work  for  him  to  do  in  His  vineyard.  I 
directed  him  to  such  a  course  of  reading  and  study  as  I  thought 
was  calculated  to  expand  his  mind,  and  prepare  him  for  future 
usefulness.  He  became  a  school  teacher,  a  Class  Leader,  a  Local 
Preacher ;  and  ultimately  he  stood  before  the  District  Meeting 
as  an  accepted  candidate  for  the  ministry.  He  was  soon 
afterwards  appointed  to  labour  with  me  in  St.  Vincent's ;  and, 
as  he  resided  in  my  family,  I  had  ample  opportunities  of 
observing  his  walk  and  conversation.  He  laboured  with  me 
fnithfuUy  as  a  son  in  the  Gospel ;  and  from  his  Christian  con- 
sistency, zeal,  and  perseverance,  I  was  led  to  esteem  him  very 
highly  in  love,  and  to  indulge  pleasing  hopes  of  his  future 
career.  These  hopes  have  been  happily  realized.  When  he  had 
been  with  me  about  two  years,  he  felt  it  upon  his  heart  to  offer 
himself  as  a  Missionary  for  Western  Africa,  the  land  of  his 


CHAP.    V. — THE    ISLAKD    OF    GRENADA.  347 

fathers.  His  letter  to  the  General  Secretaries  was  published  in 
the  "Missionary  Notices"  for  1844,  and  his  offer  was  gladly 
accepted  by  the  Committee.  I  was  requested  to  send  him  to 
England  by  the  first  opportunity,  as  his  services  were  urgently 
required  for  an  important  station  on  the  Gold  Coast.  At  his 
request  I  accompanied  him  to  Grenada,  to  take  leave  of  his 
aged  mother  and  Christian  friends.  An  interesting  tea  meeting- 
was  held,  in  connexion  with  the  valedictory  service,  on  the 
occasion  of  his  leaving  his  native  land,  when  his  country- 
men presented  him  with  a  purse,  for  the  purchase  of  the 
"London  Encyclopaedia"  and  other  works,  as  a  memento  of 
their  affectionate  regard.  The  young  Missionary  proceeded  to 
England ;  preached  with  acceptance  in  City  Ptoad  Chapel ;  went 
out  to  Africa ;  and  for  nearly  twenty  years  preached  the  Gospel 
with  zeal  and  success  in  some  of  the  high  places  of  the  Mission 
field,  such  as  Kumasi,  the  capital  of  Ashanti,  Cape  Coast,  and 
Akrah.  He  then  paid  a  visit  to  England,  to  recruit  his  health, 
and  to  place  his  two  sons  at  school ;  after  which  he  returned  to 
his  post  of  duty  on  the  coast  of  Africa.  It  was  very  pleasant 
to  see  my  dear  friend  and  brother  once  more;  and  I  trust  that 
his  future,  for  success  and  blessing,  may  not  only  be  as  the  past, 
but  much  more  abundant. 

The  Kev.  Walter  Garry  is  also  a  native  of  Grenada,  and 
received  his  first  religious  impressions  in  the  Wesleyan  Sabbath 
school.  Soon  after  his  conversion  he  removed  to  Tobago,  to 
take  charge  of  a  Mission  school.  Here  he  pursued  his  studies 
under  the  direction  of  the  Rev.  Henry  Hurd,  became  a  Local 
Preacher,  passed  his  examination,  and  was  received  as  a  candi- 
date for  the  ministry  at  the  District  Meeting  held  in  Barbadoes 
in  1345.  Being  very  young  he  was  sent  to  the  Theological 
Institution  at  Richmond,  where  he  continued  his  studies  with 
great  advantage  for  three  years.  He  then  received  an  appoint- 
ment to  Sierra  Leone ;  and,  after  serving  the  usual  time  in 
Western  Africa,  he  was  transferred  to  the  West  Indies,  where  he 
still  labours  with  acceptance  and  success. 

in  addition  to  these,  several  other  young  men  of  superior 
talent  were  raised  up  to  preach  the  Gospel  in  Grenada.  Being 
settled  in  business,  they  acted  in  the  capacity  of  Local  Preachers; 


348  PART    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

and  their  useful  labours  were  Inglily  appreciated  both  by  the 
Missionaries  and  their  fellow  countrymen. 

Another  pleasing  feature  of  our  work  in  Grenada  was  the 
zeal  and  liberality  with  which  all  classes  of  the  community  came 
forward  to  support  the  Mission  cause.  The  first  year  of  my 
appointment  to  the  station  the  proceeds  of  the  Branch  Mis- 
sionary Society  amounted  to  £164.  IQs.  Id.,  being-  an  advance 
on  the  ])receding  year  of  £64.  155.  ^d. ;  but  during  tlie  second 
year  we  realized  the  noble  sum^of  £227.  lO*.  Qd.  for  Foreign 
Missions,  in  addition  to  moneys  raised  weekly  and  quarterly 
for  the  ordinary  support  of  the  work,  and  the  special  efforts 
made  for  the  erection  of  the  new  chapel  at  La  Baye,  and  other 
objects.  It  must  not  be  supposed,  from  this  statement,  that  our 
people  were  generally  wealthy.  The  majority  of  our  church- 
members  were  labourers  and  tradesmen ;  and  the  large  amount 
of  money  annually  raised  for  the  spread  of  the  Gospel  was  the 
result  of  combined  and  systematic  effort,  such  as  may  be  fairly 
held  up  as  an  example  to  professing  Christians  in  other  -lands. 
Our  Missionary  Meetings  were  also  characterized  by  a  remark- 
able amount  of  native  talent,  as  well  as  of  genuine  missionary 
zeal  and  liberality. 

At  a  Missionary  Meeting  held  in  St.  George's  on  the  evening 
of  Tuesday,  August  31st,  1841,  His  Honour  Chief  Justice 
Sanderson  in  the  chair,  after  eloquent  speeches  had  been 
delivered  by  James  N.  Brown,  Eichard  Walker,  and  Eobert 
Gentle,  Esquires,*  intelligent  gentlemen  of  colour,   all  natives 

*  These  gentlemeu  had  been  elevated  by  tlieir  talents  and  general  excel- 
lencies to  honourable  and  responsible  positions  in  society.  On  the  Sabbath 
they  might  have  been  occasionally  found  proclaiming  the  truths  of  the 
Gospel  to  their  fellow-countrymen,  as  Local  Preachers,  inWcsleyau  chapels  ; 
and  during  the  week  they  might  have  been  heard  in  the  House  of  Assembly^ 
making  eloquent  speeches,  and  taking  a  part  in  legislating  for  their  native 
country.  D.  J.  Davison,  Esq.,  the  talented  editor  of  the  "Grenada Chronicle;" 
James  Glean,  Esq.,  the  general  genius  ;  and  the  Hon.  Samuel  Cockburn, 
Esq.,  the  self-taught  astronomer  and  philosopher,  and  other  friends  whom  I 
might  mention,  in  addition  to  the  gentlemen  already  named,  were  all  natives 
-of  Grenada,  and  a  credit  to  their  native  isle,  as  well  as  to  the  Mission  by 
which  they  had  been  so  largely  benefitted.  Some  of  these  honom-ed  brethren 
have  been  called  to  their  reward  ;  whilst  the  survivors  continue,  I  trust,  to 
be  made  a  blessing  to  their  fellow  men. 


CHAP.    V. — THE    ISLAND    OF    GRENADA.  340 

of  the  ^Vest  Indies,  Alexander  "Wake,  a  native  of  Africa,  was 
induced  to  say  a  few  words.  He  evidently  laboiu'ed  under 
feelings  of  deep  emotion ;  and  in  the  course  of  his  address  he 
made  the  following  remarks  :  "  I  feel  ashamed  to  stand  up 
before  such  a  large  company  ;  but  I  love  the  Mission  cause  for 
what  it  has  done  for  my  soul.  Last  year  I  gave  three  dollars ; 
but  this  year  I  want  to  give  four  dollars.  The  world  is  very 
large  :  it  has  four  quarters,  and  I  want  to  give  one  dollar  for 
each  quarter  of  the  world.  But  suppose  I  do  so ;  somebody 
may  say,  '  Brother  Sandy  does  not  love  his  own  country  more 
than  other  countries.*  I  therefore  want  to  give  one  dollar 
more.  Mr.  Chairman,  this  must  be  my  subscription  this  year  : 
one  dollar  for  Europe,  one  dollar  for  America,  one  dollar  for 
Asia,  and  two  dollars  for  Africa  !  " 

This  good  man  regularly  contributed  a  shilling  a  week  in  his 
Class,  besides  aiding  the  cause  in  various  other  ways  ;  and  such 
was  his  love  for  his  native  land  that  he  actually  commenced 
learning  to  write  in  his  old  age,  with  the  view  of  preparing 
himself  to  return  to  Africa,  to  labour  for  the  benefit  of  his 
fellow-countrj'men  ;  but  before  he  had  made  much  progress  he 
was  removed  to  the  better  country. 

After  I'lbouring  very  happily  for  two  years  in  Grenada,  we 
were  called  to  separate  from  our  beloved  people,  and  to  remove 
to  another  station.  On  the  evening  of  Sunday,  January  29th, 
1843,  I  preached  for  the  last  time  at  St.  George's  ;  and  in  the 
course  of  the  sermon  I  was  led  to  urge  the  people  to  be  faithful 
unto  death,  and  to  "  meet  'ine  in  Jieaven.'**  This  circumstance 
elicited  from  Mr.  James  Glean, — a  young  man  of  colour,  and  the 
teacher  of  one  of  our  schools, — the  following  lines,  which  he 
sent  me  the  next  day,  and  which  I  gladly  place  on  record,  as  a 
specimen  of  native  talent,  as  well  as  a  proof  of  sincere  Chris- 
tian affection  : — 

"  Meet  you  there  !  there  is  something  both  awful  and  sweet 
In  those  words  of  your  charge,  '  Meet  me  there ;' 
"T  is  so  truly  sublime,  and  with  love  so  replete, 
And  comes  from  a  heart  so  sincere. 

"  ^feet  you  there  I  and  why  not  ?      Shall  the  trammels  of  sin 
Ever  fetter  me  down  to  vile  clavp 


350  PAET    TI. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

No,  uo,  I  will  mount !  the  great  prize  I  must  wiu  ; 
I  cannot  stop  short  in  the  way. 

"  Your  Saviour  a  mansion  for  you  did  prepare. 
Still  travel  to  heaven,  I  shall '  meet  you  there ^  " 

On  Tuesday,  tlie  Sist,  we  embarked  for  our  new  station, 
being  accompanied  on  board  the  sloop  "  Harriet "  by  several  of 
the  friends  with  whom  we  had  lived  and  laboured  so  happily, 
and  who  were  deeply  concerned  at  our  leaving.  The  school 
children  were  assembled  on  the  wharf ;  and,  as  we  stepped  into 
the  boat,  they  commenced  singing  a  beautiful  farewell  hymn. 
Our  hearts  were  full  when  we  bade  them  *'  Good  bye  ;"  and  the 
last  sound  which,  we  lieard  was  that  of  their  dear  infant  voices, 
wafted  over  the  water  as  we  left  the  shores  of  Grenada.* 

The  following  brief  notices  may  afford  the  reader  a  more  dis- 
tinct and  comprehensive  view  of  the  principal  stations  occupied 
by  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  in  this  interesting  island. 

St.  Geokge's  is  the  metropolis  of  the  colony,  and  the  place 
■where  the  Missionary  resides.  The  chapel  is  a  good  substantial 
stone  building,  of  respectable  appearance,  and  will  seat  about  five 
hundred  persons.  It  was  erected  by  the  united  efforts  of  the 
Kev.  Messrs.  Shrewsbury  and  Goy,  in  the  year  1820.  These 
zealous  and  devoted  Missionaries  had  been  labouring  for  some 
time  with  a  cheering  measure  of  success ;  and  the  old  chapel 
became  so  crowded,  many  having  to  stand  outside  in  the  yard, 
that  they  considered  the  time  was  come  to  attempt  the  erection 
of  a  new  and  more  commodious  sanctuary.  lu  those  dark  days 
of  West  Indian  slavery  this  was  a  great  undertaking ;  and  they 
entered  upon  it  with  some  trepidation,  not  knowing  how  to 
raise  the  means  for  its  accomplishment.  Their  fears  were  soon 
removed,  however ;  for  they  had  no  sooner  made  their  intentions 

*  Had  the  limits  and  object  of  these  sketches  permitted,  I  should  have 
had  pleasure  in  giving  a  few  extracts  from  several  addresses,  both  in  prose 
and  verse,  from  Local  Preachers,  Stewards,  Leaders,  and  Christian  friends, 
as  well  as  some  account  of  the  valuable  testimonial — a  silver  tea  service, 
with  a  suitable  inscription — which  was  kindly  presented  to  us  on  the 
occasion  of  our  leaving  the  island.  Our  friends  in  Grenada  may  be 
assured,  however,  that  they  are  not  forgotten :  they  will  have  a  place  in  our 
ajffectionate  remembrance  till  the  day  of  our  death. 


CHAP.    V. — THE    ISLAND    OF    GRENADA.  351 

Inowii  than  tliey  met  with  the  liberal  response  for  which. 
Grenada  has  always  been  so  remarkable.  On  laying  the  state- 
ment of  the  case  before  the  Governor,  Major- General  P.  Eiall, 
they  received  a  communication  from  his  Secretary,  Lieutenant- 
Colonel  J.  Wilson,  assuring  them  of  His  Excellency's  approval, 
and  of  the  pleasure  which  he  had  in  contributing  the  sum  of 
J666,  which  was  accompanied  by  a  donation  of  £10  from  the 
Secretary  himself.  With  this  encouragement  the  Missionaries 
commenced  a  general  canvass,  and  in  the  first  three  days  they 
obtained  subscriptions  in  St.  George's  to  the  amount  of  £700. 
By  the  time  that  the  country  places  had  been  visited,  and  the 
church  members  had  sent  in  their  offerings,  the  list  was  raised 
to  the  noble  sum  of  £1,500 ;  the  late  Joseph  Butter  worth,  Esq., 
of  London,  generously  contributing  ten  guineas  towards  the 
object.  The  new  chapel  being  finished,  on  Sunday,  the  20th  of 
May,  1820,  it  was  solemnly  dedicated  to  the  worship  of  God,  Mr. 
Goy  preaching  in  the  morning,  and  his  new  colleague,  Mr. 
Cheeswright,  in  the  evening,  Mr.  Shrewsbury  having  been 
removed  to  Barbadoes  before  the  auspicious  day  arrived.  The 
chapel  has  recently  been  enlarged  and  improved,  and  is  still 
attended  by  an  intelligent  and  respectable  congregation.  A 
good  day  school  supplies  the  educational  wants  of  the  rising 
generation.  The  Mission-House  was  formerly  situated  on  an 
eminence  above  the  chapel;  but  a  superior  residence  for  the 
Missionary  has  been  recently  purchased.  It  stands  on  the  hill 
in  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  commands  a  delightful  prospect 
on  either  hand. 

WoBURN  is  about  four  miles  to  the  south  of  St.  George's, 
between  Clarke's  Court  and  Caliviny  Estates.  In  1837,  a 
substantial  school-house  was  erected  here,  under  the  direction 
of  the  Eev.  James  Aldis,  by  aid  of  a  Government  grant  for 
education.  A  day  school  is  conducted  in  this  building,  with 
ffreat  advantasje  to  the  children  of  the  labourers  on  the  sur- 
rounding  estates ;  and  it  is  used  as  a  place  of  worship  on  the 
Sabbath.  The  attendance  is  good,  and  a  considerable  number 
of  the  labouring  population  have  been  united  in  church  fellow- 
ship. 

CoNSTANTiNE  is  about  the  same  distance  from  St.  George's 


352  PAUT    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

as  Woburn,  but  in  tlie  contrary  direction,  and  supplies  the 
necessities  of  another  locality  in  a  similar  way.  The  school- 
chapel  stands  on  an  elevated  ridge  at  the  foot  of  the  Grand 
Etang  mountain,  amid  splendid  scenery,  with  fertile  valleys  on 
either  hand.  During  my  residence  in  the  island  this  station 
suffered  a  great  loss  in  the  death  of  the  excellent  teacher,  Mr. 
John  Carr.  He  died  of  yellow  fever,  very  happy  in  God,  on 
the  20th  of  August,  1841  ;  and  what  I  witnessed  while  stand- 
ino"  bv  his  dying  couch  formed  one  of  those  affecting  missionary 
scenes  never  to  be  effaced  from  the  memory.  The  school  and 
religious  services  at  Constantine  are  well  attended,  and  are  a 
great  benefit  to  the  neighbourhood. 

La  Bate  is  about  fourteen  miles  from  St.  George's,  on  the 
windu^ard  side  of  the  island.  Grenville  is  a  bustling  little 
place,  and  situated  close  to  the  sea  on  La  Baye,  where  large 
ships  from  Europe  take  in  their  cargoes.  On  an  eminence 
behind  the  town  stands  our  little  chapel,  which  will  seat  about 
two  hundred  persons.  The  foundation  stone  of  this  neat  little 
sanctuary  was  laid  by  Matthew  Welsh,  Esq.,  on  the  18th  of 
October,  1841,  the  inhabitants  having  contributed  liberally 
towards  the  object,  as  already  stated.  It  was  opened  for  Divine 
service  a  few  months  afterwards,  and  has  proved  a  great  bless- 
in^- to  the  neighbourhood.  A  day  school  is  also  taught  here; 
and  a  small  society  has  been  formed ;  but  the  prevailing  super- 
stitions of  Romanism  have  been  a  serious  barrier  to  the  progress 
of  the  work.  The  direct  road  from  St.  George's  to  La  Baye 
lies  over  the  Grand  Etang  mountain,  and  is  remarkably  steep 
and  ruo-o-ed ;  but  the  scenery  is  splendid  beyond  description. 

Carriacou  is  a  beautiful  island,  about  ten  miles  from 
Grenada,  of  which  it  is  a  dependency.  It  contains  a  few  sugar 
estates,  and  a  population  of  nearly  four  thousand  people.  A. 
few  years  ago  we  had  a  resident  Missionary  there  for  a  short 
time ;  but  the  result  was  not  such  as  to  warrant  a  continuance 
of  the  arrangement,  especially  when  the  depressed  state  of  the 
Society's  funds  was  taken  into  account.  We  have  still  a  few 
church  members,  who  keep  together,  and  are  visited  occasionally 
by  the  Missionary. 

The  Isle  de  Ehonde  used  to  be  visited  in  former  times- 


CHAP.    VI. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TOBAGO.  353 

about  once  a  quarter,  when  Grenada  was  favoured  with  three 
Missionaries.  The  only  estate  on  the  island  had  about  thres 
hundred  Negroes  connected  with  it,  forty  or  fifty  of  whom  had 
been  brought  from  other  places,  where  they  had  heard  the 
Gospel,  and  were  seriously  disposed.  Gouyave,  Sauteurs,  and 
Hermitage  have  also  been  visited  occasionally ;  but,  without  an 
increase  of  ministerial  labour,  they  cannot  be  supplied  regu- 
larly. After  all  the  changes  which  have  taken  place  we  have 
now  iji  connexion  with  the  Grenada  Mission  fwe  chapels,  two 
Missionaries,  six  hundred  and  twelve  church  members,  four 
hundred  and  six  scholars,  and  eighteen  hundred  attendants  on 
public  worship. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THE  ISL.VND  OF  TOBAGO. 

MissiONAiiY  Voyapces — Appearance  of  Tobago — Settled  by  the  Dutch — ■ 
Taken  by  the  French — Conquered  by  the  English — Prosperity  of  the 
Colony — Aspect  of  the  Country — Towns  and  Villages — Population — 
Eeligion  and  Morals — Moravian  Missionary  Society — London  Mis- 
sionary Society — Wesleyan  Missionary  Society — Progress  of  the  Work 
— Mission  Stations — Scarborough — Mount  St.  George — Mason  Hall. 

One  of  the  greatest  discomforts  to  which  the  Missionaries 
and  their  families,  in  the  smaller  islands  of  the  West  Indies, 
were  exposed  in  former  times,  was  the  tossing  about  on  the  se^ 
once  a  year  in  going  to  and  from  the  District  Meetings,  or  in 
removing  to  their  new  stations.  The  vessels  usually  employed 
on  those  occasions  were  small  inconvenient  little  sloops  or 
schooners ;  and  when  the  party  was  large,  it  required  some 
activity  and  contrivance  to  make  arrangements  for  cooking^ 
eating,  and  sleeping  during  the  voyage,  which  sometimes  lasted 
for  a  week  or  ten  days.  The  superintendence  of  these  things 
devolved,  as  a  matter  of  course,  upon  those  Missionaries  who 
were  most  free  from  sea-sickness,  and  otherwise  best  adapted 

A  A 


354  PAET    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

for  the  office,  but  we  soon  became  reconciled  to  a  mode  of  life 
which  at  first  was  anything  but  agreeable. 

We  found  some  relief,  however,  on  these  occasions,  in  the 
harmony  and  good  feeling  which  generally  pervaded  the  com- 
pany. As  Christian  Missionaries,  we  knew  nothing  of  coldness 
aAd  shyness  in  our  social  intercourse.  Remaining  in  the  same 
District,  if  spared,  for  many  years,  without  those  frequent 
changes  which  are  so  common  in  England,  we  became  well 
acquainted  with  each  other ;  and,  being  so  frequently  thrown 
upon  our  own  resources,  as  a  body  of  Ministers,  in  far  distant 
lands,  in  circumstances  both  of  joy  and  sorroAv,  we  were 
united  by  ties  of  sympathy  and  affection,  such  as  can  be  under- 
stood only  by  those  who  have  been  called  to  leave  kindred  and 
home  to  preach  the  Gospel  in  heathen  countries.  We  loved  as 
brethren,  and  no  sacrifice  was  thought  too  great  to  make  to  pro- 
mote each  other's  comfort.  The  incidents  connected  with  some 
of  these  missionary  voyages  were  of  such  a  character  as  never 
to  be  efi'aced  from  the  memory.  Many  a  beautiful  moonlight 
night  have  we  sat  upon  the  deck  of  the  vessel,  and  talked  about 
Missions,  books,  home,  kindred,  and  friends,  until  we  have 
become  so  deeply  interested  in  the  subjects  of  our  conversation 
that  we  have  been  loath  to  "  tmni  in,"  *  Since  the  West  India 
Steam  Packet  Company's  vessels  have  been  plying  among  the 
islands,  facilities  for  travelling  are  afforded  which  were  unknown 
in  former  times ;  and  the  Missionaries  and  their  families  are 

*  This  reference  to  missicnary  journeys,  privations,  joys,  sorrows,  sym- 
pathy, and  brotherly  love,  reminds  me  of  a  periodical  recently  received  from 
Australia,  containing  a  series  of  "  Missionary  Recollections  "  of  the  West 
Indies,  in  which  the  writer  refers  to  me  as  his  Superintendent,  and  to  the 
spirit  in  which  we  lived  and  laboured  together,  in  terms  which  I  cannot 
quote  without  the  appearance  of  egotism ;  but  I  may  be  allowed  sincerely 
to  reciprocate  his  kindness,  and  to  assure  J.  B.  and  my  other  dear  surviving 
colleagues,  scattered  abroad  in  different  parts  of  the  world,  that  they  are 
still  remembered  with  undying  affection,  both  in  social  converse  and  at  the 
throne  of  heavenly  grace. 

"  Subsists  as  in  us  all  one  soul: 
No  power  can  make  us  twain ; 
And  mountains  rise  and  oceans  roll 
To  sever  us  in  vain." 


CHAP.    VI. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TOBAGO.  355 

BOW  sometimes  able  to  make  arrangements  for  their  removals 
with  less  discomfort  and  inconvenience  than  formerly. 

These  intercolonial  voyages  of  the  j\Iissionaries  are  occa- 
sionally attended  with  considerable  danger,  as  well  as  discom- 
fort. The  vessels  themselves,  which  traffic  among  the  islands, 
•are  not  well  adapted  to  encounter  stormy  weather ;  and  the 
Creole  Captains  who  command  them  are  too  frequently  but 
partially  acquainted  with  the  science  of  navigation.  After 
having  been  out  at  sea  for  several  days,  we  have  sometimes 
gladly  embraced  the  opportunity  which  presented  itself,  on 
falling  in  with  a  vessel,  of  inquiring  our  way  to  the  next  port ; 
and  we  have  been  obliged  more  than  once  to  assume  the  entire 
■control  over  the  vessel  we  had  chartered,  and  to  direct  the 
sailors  what  to  do,  being  apprehensive  of  the  consequences  of 
leaving  all  to  the  Captain,  especially  when  we  had  reason  to  fear 
that  strong  drink  was  gaining  the  mastery  over  reason. 

On  one  occasion,  when  on  our  way  from  Trinidad  to  St. 
Vincent's,  we  were  placed  in  circumstances  of  considerable 
peril.  Having  to  call  at  Grenada,  to  take  on  board  the  Mis- 
sionaiy  who  was  going  to  the  District  Meeting,  we  stood 
directly  for  that  island.  We  made  Point  Saline  about  sunset ; 
but,  the  wind  being  rather  unfavourable,  we  had  to  beat  up  the 
coast  after  dark.  The  Captain  was  totally  unacquainted  with 
the  island,  and  we  were  at  a  loss  to  know  what  course  to  take. 
We  could  faintly  discern  something  white  a-head,  which  was 
pronounced  by  a  loquacious  sailor  to  be  the  town  of  St.  George. 
It  was  soon  settled  that  we  should  proceed  straightforward  at 
once ;  but  before  we  had  proceeded  many  hundred  yards  we 
found  ourselves  on  a  dangerous  rocky  shore  ;  and  that,  instead 
of  entering  the  harbour,  as  we  expected,  we  were  making  towards 
a  field  from  which  the  sugar-canes  had  been  reaped,  the  white 
appearance  of  which  had  deceived  the  eye.  We  had  scarcely 
time  to  consult  about  the  matter  when  we  found  ourselves  sur- 
rounded by  breakers,  the  deafening  roar  of  which  was  anything 
but  agreeable.  At  my  request  the  Captain  instantly  let  go  the 
anchor,  and  we  remained  during  the  night  in  a  narrow  basin, 
almost  surrounded  with  reefs.  As  the  motion  of  the  vessel  was 
considerable,  we  were  apprehensive  that  she  might  drag  the 
2  A  2 


356  PART  II. — THE  WEST  INDIES. 

anchor ;  Mr.  Kanyell  and  I  therefore  kept  watch  duiing  the 
night,  and  we  were  thankful  to  find  she  held  her  gi-ound.  The 
next  morning  our  schooner  was  seen  from  the  harbour,  and  a 
number  of  boats  were  manned,  and  came  out  to  our  assistance, 
taking  it  for  gi-anted  that  our  vessel  was  aground.  In  the 
mean  time,  perceiving  the  narrow  channel  by  which  we  had 
entered,  we  weighed  anchor,  tacked  out  into  the  open  sea,  bore 
up  for  the  harbour,  and  met  our  kind  friends  coming  down,  who 
gave  us  a  hearty  cheer  on  our  providential  deliverance  from 
such  a  perilous  position. 

Having  been  joined  by  the  Eev.  George  Beard  and  Ins  son, 
we  proceeded  on  oui-  voyage,  truly  thankful  to  our  heavenly 
Father  for  His  preserving  goodness.  During  the  following  night 
we  found  ourselves  in  company  Avith  a  suspicious-looking 
Spanish  launch,  which  was  pronounced  by  some  on  board  to  be 
a  pirate.  Our  apprehensions  were  increased  by  the  circumstance 
of  the  two  vessels  having  nearly  come  in  collision  when  sailing 
on  different  "tacks,"  on  which  occasion  the  Captains  used  very 
abusive  language  to  each  other.  The  next  morning  we  were 
glad  to  find  that  our  disagreeable  companion  had  disappeared, 
and  we  proceeded  on  our  voyage  in  peace  and  safety. 

In  the  year  1841,  our  annual  District  Meeting  was  held  in 
the  island  of  Tobago,  the  only  colony  in  the  St.  Vincent's 
and  Demerara  Districts  to  which  I  had  not  the  pleasure  of  an 
appointment,  during  the  period  of  my  missionary  labours  in  the 
West  Indies.  I  visited  the  station,  however,  on  the  occasion 
alluded  to ;  and  have  had  ample  opportunities  of  marking  the 
progress  of  events  in  that  island  for  many  years  past;  and  it  is 
with  pleasure  that  I  place  upon  record  a  few  particulars  witli 
reference  to  it,  which  may  perhaps  be  interesting  to  the  friends 
of  Missions. 

The  navigation  between  Grenada  and  Tobago  is  somewhat 
dreary  and  intricate,  as  it  is  generally  necessary  to  work  well 
up  to  windward,  and  then  steer  between  the  Grenadines.  On 
the  occasion  alluded  to,  I  was  accompanied  by  the  Kev.  Messrs. 
Bickford  and  Hurd,  Mr.  William  Cleaver,  a  candidate  for  the 
ministry  from  Trinidad,  and  the  Rev.  .John  and  Mrs.  Wood, 
who  had  joined  us  at  Grenada.     We  left  the  island  last  men- 


CHAr.    VI. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TOBAGO.  357 

tioned  on  the  27tli  of  January,  and  beat  up  to  Union,  from 
whence  we  were  able  to  Liy  our  course  for  the  place  of  our  des- 
tination, by  keeping  close  to  the  wind.  On  Priday  we  made 
Tobago,  which  is  not  very  attractive  in  its  appearance,  on  the 
■eastern  coast.  The  shore  being  very  dangerous  and  rocky,  we 
were  obliged  to  keep  well  out  to  sea  until  we  came  opposite  the 
port.  On  the  following  morning  we  entered  the  harbour,  and 
came  to  anchor,  with  the  town  of  Scarborough  clearly  in  view, 
which  presented  a  very  agreeable  prospect.  On  lauding  we 
were  kindly  received  by  the  Rev.  G.  and  Mrs.  Ranyell,  who 
had  made  every  necessary  arrangement  for  our  comfort  during 
our  sojourn.  On  Monday  evening,  the  1st  of  February,  I 
preached  in  town  ;  and  on  Sunday,  the  7th,  I  spent  a  happy  day 
at  Mount  St.  George,  in  company  with  ray  respected  friend  and 
brother,  the  late  Kev.  John  Blackwell,  who  kindly  shared  with 
me  in  the  services  of  the  sanctuary. 

Soon  after  our  party  reached  Tobago,  we  were  joined  by  the 
Missionaries  from  Barbadoes  and  St.  Vincent's.  They  entered  the 
harbour  in  a  beautiful  schooner  in  gallant  style,  with  flags  floating 
on  both  topmasts,  bearing  the  striking  and  appropriate  mottoes, 
"  The  world  is  my  parish,"  and  "  Best  of  all  is,  God  is  with  us." 
This  circumstance,  together  with  the  assembling  of  so  many 
Ministers  for  the  first  time  in  the  island,  excited  much  interest  j 
and  our  religious  services  were  well  attended.  During  our  stay 
we  -were  treated  with  much  kindness  and  hospitality  by  the 
friends  generally,  and  especially  so  by  A.  Melville,  J.  T.  Com- 
missiong,  J.  I.  Bovell,  and  R.  G.  Ross,  Esqs.  Having  finished 
our  business,  we  returned  to  our  respective  stations,  favourably 
impressed  \vith  our  visit  to  this  interesting  colony. 

The  island  of  Tobago  is  situated  in  latitude  11°  15'  north, 
and  longitude  60°  40'  west,  about  eighty-one  miles  from  Gre- 
nada, and  fifty-one  from  Trinidad  and  the  Spanish  Main,  which 
can  be  clearly  seen  on  a  fine  day.  It  is  thirty-three  miles  long 
and  nine  broad,  and  presents  to  the  view  a  surface  less  iiTcgular 
and  broken  than  that  of  many  of  the  other  West  India  islands, 
^nd  possesses  a  fertile  soil,  being  watered  by  numerous  springs. 
As  the  population  only  amounts  to  about  fourteen  thou- 
rsand,  it  is  not  surprising  that  a  considerable  portion  of  the 


358  PART    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

island  continues  in  its  original  wilderness  state,  covered  witli^ 
primitive  forest  trees.  Perhaps  this  circumstance  may  account,, 
in  part,  for  the  unenviable  reputation  which  this  colony  has- 
sained  for  its  alleo-ed  insalubrious  climate.  If  it  should  ever 
become  as  thoroughly  cleared  and  cultivated  as  Barbadoes, 
perhaps  it  will  be  equally  healthy. 

It  has  never  been  accurately  ascertained  by  whom  the  island 
of  Tobago  was  at  first  discovered  ;  but,  from  the  scanty  records- 
which  we  find  of  its  early  history,  it  appears  to  have  passed 
through  various  changes  in  its  process  of  colonization.  As 
early  as  1632,  a  party  of  Dutch  adventurers  from  Flessingen 
landed  on  the  shores  of  Tobago,  and  formed  the  first  European- 
settlement.  At  that  period  the  island  was  found  without 
inhabitants ;  but  it  bore  evident  marks  of  having  been  once- 
peopled  by  a  savage  and  warlike  race  of  Indians.  The  Spaniards- 
of  Trinidad  no  sooner  heard  of  the  formation  of  this  infant 
colony  than,  influenced  by  a  spirit  of  jealousy,  they  fitted  out 
an  expedition  against  it,  in  which  they  were  joined  by  the 
savage  natives  of  the  neighbouring  continent  of  South  America. 
The  Dutch  settlers  were  taken  by  surprise,  and  fell  an  easy  prey 
to  their  enemies.  Most  of  them  were  cruelly  massacred,  while- 
the  few  who  escaped  fled  to  the  woods,  where  they  secreted  them- 
selves, until  they  found  an  opportunity  to  leave  the  country. 
Having  completed  their  work  of  destruction,  the  invaders  took 
their  departure ;  and  the  island  was  once  more  left  without 
inhabitants. 

About  twenty  years  afterwards,  the  Dutch  made  a  second 
attempt  to  form  a  settlement ;  but  they  had  not  proceeded  far 
with  building  houses,  and  cultivating  the  ground,  when,  in  1665^ 
they  were  attacked  and  vanquished  by  the  English.  The  con- 
querors were  not  permitted  long  to  enjoy  the  fruits  of  their 
victory,  however ;  for  they  were  soon  afterwards  attacked  by  the- 
Erench,  to  whom  they  were  obliged  to  yield  the  colony. 
Louis  XIV.,  having  more  territory  than  he  could  either  people- 
or  defend,  restored  Tobago  to  the  Dutch,  its  original  possessors. 
The  resident  colonists  now  received  an  accession  of  more  than 
a  thousand  settlers  from  Holland,  and  commenced  the  cultiva- 


CHAP.   VI. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TOBAGO.  359 

tion  of  tobacco,  indigo,  cotton,  and  sugar,  on  a  scale  never 
before  attempted. 

In  1677,  the  French,  being  allured  by  the  improved  state  of 
the  colony,  equipped  a  fleet  to  take  possession  of  it ;  but  the 
Dutch,  being  aware  of  the  design  of  their  enemies,  also  sent  a 
strong  naval  force  to  defend  it.  The  hostile  fleets  came  in  con- 
tact oif  the  coast  of  Tobago,  where  a  fearful  conflict  followed, 
in  which  every  ship  was  dismasted,  and  twelve  vessels  burned 
to  ashes,  while  several  others  were  sunk.  Those  which  escaped 
destruction  were  reduced  to  mere  wrecks  ;  and  the  French  were 
'obliged  to  relinquish  their  undertaking.  They  renewed  the 
attack,  however,  a  few  months  afterwards,  when  a  shell,  thrown 
into  the  fortification  of  the  colonists,  blew  up  their  powder 
magazine,  and  decided  the  contest  in  favour  of  the  assailants. 
Instead  of  settling  in  the  island,  however,  the  French  dis- 
mantled the  fortifications ;  set  fire  to  the  houses,  plantations, 
and  ships  in  the  harbour ;  transported  the  inhabitants  from  the 
country  ;  and  took  their  departure,  leaving  the  island  once  more 
without  an  inhabitant,  in  which  state  it  remaijied  for  fifty  years. 

In  1763,  the  English  once  more  took  possession  of  Tobago, 
and  laid  the  foundation  of  a  permanent  and  prosperous  colony. 
Our  countrymen  committed  an  egregious  error,  however,  in 
forming  their  settlements  chiefly  on  the  leeward  side  of  the 
island,  which  was  found  to  be  very  unhealthy,  and  great  sick- 
ness and  mortality  were  the  result.  They  afterwards  turned 
their  attention  to  the  windward  district,  which  proved  much 
more  salubrious.  In  1781,  the  colony  was  once  more  taken  by 
the  French;  but  it  was  re-taken  by  the  English  in  1803,  and 
has  ever  since  remained  in  our  possession.  Since  the  Eestora- 
tion  of  peace  to  Europe  and  the  colonies,  this  island  has 
rapidly  advanced  in  agricultural  and  mercantile  prosperity ;  and 
it  will  now  bear  a  comparison  with  any  of  the  smaller  islands  of 
the  West  Indies. 

Tobago  cannot  boast  of  many  towns  and  villages.  Scar- 
borough, the  capital,  is  said  to  bear  a  striking  resemblance  to 
the  celebrated  watering-place  of  that  name  in  Yorkshire,  from 
■which  it  may  have  originally  derived  its  appellation.  It  is  con- 
veniently situated  on  rising  ground,  which  gives  it  a  beautiful 


360  PAET    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

appearance  when  seen  from  a  distance.  The  town  contains  a 
few  good  buildings,  some  of  which  are  erected  of  wood,  and 
others  of  stone  and  brick.  The  Wesleyan  chapel,  English 
church,  and  Court-house  are  respectable  edifices ;  and  so  are 
some  of  the  mansions  occupied  by  merchants,  planters,  and 
others.  The  fort  and  barracks  are  situated  on  a  hill  above  the 
town,  and  command  a  delightful  and  extensive  prospect.  Im- 
mediately below  we  have  a  view  of  the  streets  and  houses  of 
Scarborough,  with  the  vessels  in  the  harbour ;  and  beyond 
appear  several  beautiful  rocky  islands,  over  which  the  milk- 
white  foam  of  the  ocean  is  frequently  breaking ;  whilst  in  the 
distance,  on  the  southern  horizon,  may  be  seen  the  dim  blue 
outline  of  the  island  of  Trinidad  and  the  Spanish  Main. 
Courland  and  Man-of-War  Bay  are  inconsiderable  villages,  on 
the  north  side  of  the  island. 

The  Moravian  Missionary  Society  had  the  honour  of  being 
the  first  to  attempt  the  moral  improvement  of  the  inhabitants 
of  Tobago,  who  are  represented  as  being  in  a  state  of  fearful 
spiritual  destitution  in  the  latter  part  of  the  seventeenth  cen- 
tury. In  1790,  the  Bev.  T.  Montgomery,  the  father  of  the 
celebrated  poet,  the  late  James  Montgomery,  Esq.,  of  Sheffield, 
arrived  from  Barbadoes,  at  the  earnest  request  of  Mr.  Hamilton, 
a  gentleman  of  considerable  property  and  influence  in  the 
island.  The  Missionary  was  received  with  great  kindness  and 
cordiality  by  the  Governor,  Count  Dillon,  as  well  as  by  other 
gentlemen  of  note  in  the  colony ;  and  at  first  the  prospect  of 
usefulness  appeared  very  promising.  His  labours  were  soon 
obstructed,  however,  by  several  untoward  circumstances.  A 
mutiny  broke  out  among  the  soldiers  of  the  garrison,  the  town 
was  reduced  to  ashes  by  a  destmctive  fire,  and  soon  afterwards 
a  dreadful  hurricane  laid  waste  the  whole  country.  These 
events,  which  succeeded  each  other  in  rapid  succession,  caused 
great  excitement  in  the  island  ;  and  when  the  effects  had  sub- 
sided, and  meetings  could  again  be  held  for  the  instruction  of 
the  people,  the  Negroes  manifested  great  unwillingness  to 
attend.  On  one  occasion  fourteen  came;  and  on  another,  after 
the  Missionary  had  waited  a  whole  hour,  only  three  made  their 
appearance ;  while  on  some  Sabbaths  not  a  single  person  came 


CHAP.    VI. — THE    ISLAKD    OF   TOBAGO.  361 

near  the  place.  After  labouring  for  a  year,  Mr.  Montgomery 
complained  bitterly  of  want  of  success.  In  one  communication 
he  says,  "Our  greatest  grief  is,  that  ice  have  not  yet  found  a 
single  soul  that  seeks  a  Saviour.''  Having  lost  his  wife,  and 
being  himself  ill  with  dysentery,  the  ^lissionary  returned  to 
Earbadoes ;  where,  a  short  time  afterwards,  he  was  called  to 
•exchange  the  sorrows  of  time  for  the  joys  of  eternity. 

In  1798,  the  Moravian  Mission  was  re-established  by  the 
E-ev.  C.  F.  W.  Sbirmer,  who  met  with  a  favourable  reception 
from  many  of  the  planters,  and  w^ho  commenced  his  labours 
with  a  fair  prospect  of  success ;  but  about  three  years  after- 
wards it  was  again  abandoned  in  consequence  of  the  alarm  which 
prevailed  on  account  of  an  alleged  conspiracy  among  the 
Negroes  to  murder  all  the  white  inhabitants,  and  take  posses- 
sion of  the  island.  Several  years  afterwards  the  Mission  was 
once  more  renewed  under  more  favourable  circumstances,  and  it 
has  continued  in  active  operation,  with  great  advantage  to  the 
labouring  population,  to  the  present  time. 

About  the  year  1808,  the  London  Missionary  Society 
appointed  the  Eev.  E.  Elliott  to  commence  a  Mission  in 
Tobago.  A  chapel  was  erected  for  his  accommodation  in  Scar- 
borough, where  he  had  a  small  congregation  of  white  and 
coloured  people.  He  also  preached  occasionally  on  several 
estates ;  but,  as  the  Mission  was  attended  with  considerable 
expense  and  little  success,  it  was  relinquished  in  1814,  and  Mr. 
Elliott  removed  to  Demerara,  where  his  labours  were  made  a 
great  blessing. 

It  was  several  years  afterwards  that  the  Wesleyan  Missionary 
Society  added  Tobago  to  the  list  of  West  India  stations  ;  but 
this  delay  was  not  owing  to  apathy  or  indifference,  but  to  cir- 
cumstances which  could  not  be  controlled.  As  early  as  1795 
the  Eev.  W.  Turton  paid  a  visit  to  this  island  from  Antigua ; 
but  just  at  this  time  the  place  was  invaded  by  the  French,  as 
already  mentioned,  and  the  whole  country  was  laid  waste.  For 
several  days  and  nights  the  Missionary  was  exposed  to  the  open 
air,  having  no  other  shelter  than  a  bush  to  screen  him  from  the 
•sun  by  day  and  the  cold  by  night,  with  scarcely  any  food  to 
sustain  nature.     This  brought  on  a  fit  of  sickness,  which  con- 


362  PAET    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

tinned  for  some  months.  After  the  French  had  evacuated  the 
island,  Mr.  Turton  found  it  so  difficult  to  collect  a  congregation 
in  the  unsettled  state  of  the  colony,  that  he  was  induced  to 
return  to  Antigua. 

In  1817,  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Brown  and  Catts  called  at  Tobago 
on  their  way  to  Hayti,  and,  being  detained  a  few  days,  they 
collected  some  interesting  information,  which  they  communicated 
to  the  Society  at  home.  They  found  several  persons  seriously 
disposed,  who  had  been  members  of  our  church  in  other  islands, 
with  whom  they  held  profitable  conversation.  They  preached 
four  times  in  the  chapel  built  by  Mr.  Elliott,  of  the  London 
Missionary  Society,  who  had  then  left  the  island.  This  was  the 
only  place  of  worship  at  that  time  in  the  colony.  Having 
received  kind  attention  from  several  of  the  inhabitants,  especially 
from  a  Mr.  Cunningham,  the  Missionaries  proceeded  on  their 
voyage  to  the  place  of  their  destination.  In  the  course  of  the 
following  year,  a  pious  soldier  wrote  a  letter  from  Tobago  to  the 
late  Eev.  Joseph  Benson,  setting  forth  the  demoralized  state  of 
the  community,  and  earnestly  pleading  for  a  Missionary. 

In  1817,  the  Eev.  S.  P.  Woolley  visited  Tobago  by  direction 
of  the  Antigua  District  Meeting  ;  and  he  being  deeply  impressed 
with  the  necessity  for  something  being  done  for  a  place  so  desti- 
tute of  the  means  of  religious  instruction,  arrangements  were 
made  at  once  for  the  provisional  appointment  of  the  Eev.  J. 
Eayner  to  this  new  station.  The  work  was  commenced  by  this 
devoted  Missionary  with  encouraging  prospects  of  success  ;  but 
in  a  few  months  after  his  arrival  his  dear  wife  sickened  and 
died;  and,  being  left  with  a  little  infant,  he  was  obliged  to 
remove  to  another  station.  Mr.  Eayner  was  succeeded  by  the 
Eev.  John  Smedley,  who  laboured  for  three  years  on  this  station 
with  considerable  success.  They  were  years  not  only  of  arduous 
toil,  but  of  severe  affliction  and  bereavement.  On  the  23rd  of 
November,  1820,  he  was  called  to  commit  to  the  cold  grave  the 
remains  of  the  Eev.  W.  Larcom,  a  pious  young  Missionary, 
who  had  been  sent  to  labour  with  him  as  his  colleague ;  and 
four  days  afterwards  he  was  bereaved  of  his  beloved  wik.  Mrs. 
Smedley  died  happy  in  God  on  Sunday,  the  26th,  after  an 
illness  of  only  eight  days.     The  bereaved  Missionary  felt  most 


CHAP.  VI. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TOBAGO.  363 

acutely  his  loneliness,  but  he  laboured  on  with  resignation  and 
courage  in  his  Master's  work,  and  was  made  a  great  blessing  to 
the  people  both  in  town  and  country. 

In  the  year  1823  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Nelson  and  Stephenson 
were  appointed  to  Tobago,  and  were  soon  enabled  to  report 
favourably  of  the  state  of  the  society  in  Scarborough,  and  to 
communicate  the  pleasing  fact  that  eleven  estates  were  accessible 
to  them  for  the  instmction  of  the  long-neglected  slave  popula- 
ion.  These  zealous  Missionaries  were  succeeded  by  the  Rev. 
Messrs.  Powell,  Wood,  Blackwell,  and  others,  who  laboured 
more  or  less  successfully  in  this  interesting  island. 

The  difficulties  connected  with  slavery  were  severely  felt, 
however,  in  this  as  in  other  West  Indian  colonies.  It  was  not 
till  the  advent  of  the  glorious  emancipation  that  the  way  was 
fully  opened  for  extensive  usefuhiess  among  the  labouring  popu- 
lation. In  the  year  1834,  after  so  many  years  of  patient  toil 
on  the  part  of  the  Missionaries,  there  were  only  one  hundred 
members  in  Society ;  but  a  few  years  afterwards,  when  every 
hinderance  had  been  removed  out  of  the  way,  and  free  access 
was  allowed  to  the  people,  the  number  of  church  members  had 
increased  to  fifteen  hundred.  In  the  times  of  shivery  our 
educational  labours  were  necessarily  confined  to  Sabbath  schools ; 
but,  since  emancipation,  day  schools  have  been  established  in 
various  parts  of  the  country,  and  the  people  have  made  rapid 
progress  in  religious  and  general  information. 

In  the  year  1839,  the  Rev.  George  Ranyell  was  appointed  to 
Tobago  ;  and,  during  the  three  years  that  he  laboured  there,  he 
was  favoured  to  realize  a  large  measure  of  success.  The  con- 
gregations in  Scarborough  rapidly  improved ;  every  pew  in  the 
chapel  was  engaged ;  and  a  number  of  persons  were  brought  to 
a  saving  knowledge  of  the  truth.  At  Mount  St.  George,  also, 
there  was  a  large  in-gathering  of  precious  souls  to  the  church, 
of  Christ ;  although  without  a  colleague,  the  zealous  Missionary 
extended  his  labours  to  the  windward  district  of  the  island, 
where  inviting  openings  presented  themselves  for  the  introduction 
of  the  Gospel.  When  the  people  had  been  favoured  to  hear  the 
good  news  for  themselves,  such  was  their  desire  to  be  more 
fully  instructed  in   the  way  to    heaven,  that    they  frequently 


364  PAET    II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

walked  down  to  Mount  St.  George,  a  distance  of  twelve  or 
fourteen  miles,  to  hear  a  sermon,  and  returned  to  their  homes 
the  same  day.  It  was  pleasing  also  to  observe,  at  this  period, 
the  absence  of  prejudice  against  the  Gospel  among  the  higher 
classes  of  the  community.  Wherever  the  Missionary  travelled 
in  the  discharge  of  his  important  duties,  he  was  received  with 
kindness,  and  entertained  with  Christian  hospitality. 

In  the  short  space  of  two  years,  nearly  three  hundred  mem- 
bers were  added  to  the  Society,  and  a  large  increase  was  realized 
in  the  financial  resources  of  the  Mission.  In  the  year  1844, 
the  proceeds  of  the  Tobago  Branch  Missionary  Society  amounted 
to  the  noble  sum  of  three  hundred  pounds.  The  people  of  God 
were  willing  in  the  day  of  His  power.  On  one  occasion,  when 
the  Missionary  was  coming  home  from  the  windward  part  of 
the  island,  the  rain  descended  in  torrents,  and  he  got  a  thorough 
wetting.  A  few  weeks  afterwards,  on  returning  to  the  same 
estate,  he  preached  in  the  boiling-house ;  and,  just  before  he  con- 
cluded the  service,  a  smart  black  man  stepped  up  to  him,  and 
said,  "  Stop,  Massa ;  we  go  make  collection  to-night."  "  A 
collection  for  what?  "  said  the  Missionary,  "  I  have  not  heard  of 
it."  "  Neber  mind,  Massa  ;  we  been  w^ant  for  make  a  collection." 
They  were  allowed  to  proceed,  a  hat  was  handed  round,  and  a 
liberal  collection  was  made.  The  good  man  who  had  taken  the 
lead  in  the  business  then  came  up,  and  poured  the  money  upon 
the  table,  and  said,  "Now,  Massa  Minister,  de  collection  be 
for  you,  for  your  wet  jacket  de  last  time  you  come  to  preach  to 
we."  The  Missionary  was  pleasingly  sui-prised  at  this  act  of 
Christian  liberality  and  kind  consideration.  He  explained  to 
the  people,  however,  that  he  required  no  such  remuneration  for 
his  "  wet  jacket ;"  and  that  the  money  which  they  had  so  gene- 
rously contributed  would  be  given  to  aid  the  funds  of  the  "  great 
Society  "  which  sent  him  to  preach  to  them.  He  also  assured 
them  that  he  would  continue  his  visits  with  pleasure,  regardless 
of  an  occasional  wetting ;  and  that  his  best  reward  would  be 
their  serious  attention  and  cordial  reception  of  the  truths  of  the 
Gospel  which  it  was  his  business  to  proclaim. 

In  1841,  the  Eev.  James  Bickford  was  appointed  to  the 
Tobago  station,  and  nobly  followed  up  the  labours  of  his  zealous 


CHAP.    VI. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TOBAGO.  365 

predecessor,  both  in  town  and  country  ;  and  the  good  work  con- 
tinued to  prosper  in  all  its  departments.  The  following  year, 
the  late  Eev.  S.  Durrie  was  appointed  to  this  station  as  the 
second  Missionary,  the  chapel  at  Scarborough  was  enlarged,  the 
new  places  in  the  remote  parts  of  the  island  were  more  fre- 
quently supplied  with  preaching,  and  a  large  number  of  mem- 
bers were  gathered  into  the  church  of  Christ. 

The  Rev.  Henry  Hurd  was  appointed  to  the  superintendency 
of  this  Mission  in  1814  ;  and,  during  the  period  of  his  zealous 
labours  in  the  island,  the  good  work  steadily  advanced  on  all 
the  stations. 

Thus  the  Mission  in  Tobago  continued  to  prosper  from  year 
to  year,  without  anything  occurring  to  impede  its  progress,  till 
the  year  1847,  when  a  dreadful  hurricane  laid  waste  the  whole 
country,  and  many  of  our  people  suffered  the  "loss  of  all 
things."  Several  of  our  chapels,  also,  were  laid  in  ruins;  and 
the  Missionaries  were  placed  in  circumstances  of  extreme  finan- 
cial difficulty.  These  obstacles  were  ultimately  surmounted, 
however ;  and,  although  Tubago  has  of  late  years  suffered,  in 
common  with  other  West  Indian  colonies,  in  its  agricultural  and 
commercial  interests,  the  Mission  work  maintains  an  important 
position.  The  station  was  occupied  in  subsequent  years  by  the 
llev.  Messrs.  Biggs,  Whitehead, Brown,  Barley,  Elliott,  Horsford, 
Wrench,  Moses,  MaiTatt,  Chase,  Dixon,  Trotman,  Soper,  Rich- 
ardson, and  others ;  but  our  limited  space  obliges  us  to  con- 
clude this  sketch  with  the  following  brief  notices  of  the  respec- 
tive stations  occupied  by  the  Society  in  this  island. 

ScARBOBOUGH  is  the  head  of  the  Circuit,  and  the  place  where 
the  Superintendent  Minister  resides.  The  chapel  is  a  sub- 
stantial and  respectable  edifice,  built  of  stone  and  brick,  with 
the  residence  of  the  Missionary  above,  on  a  second  storey,  with  a 
commanding  and  delightful  prospect.  It  was  erected  soon  after 
the  commencement  of  the  Mission  ;  but  such  was  the  prosperity 
of  the  work  in  after  years,  that  it  became  too  small  for  the  con- 
gregation. In  1843  it  was  enlarged  by  the  addition  of  a  wing 
to  the  front,  under  the  direction  of  the  Bev.  James  Bickford ; 
and  it  will  now  accommodate  about  six  hundred  persons.  An 
excellent  day  school  is  in  active  operation,  and  has  already  been 
of  2;reat  benefit  to  the  town  and  neighbourhood. 


366  PART   II. — THE   "WEST    INDIES. 

Mount  St.  Geoege,  sometimes  called  Elsineur,  about  six 
miles  from  Scarborough,  is  an  important  country  station,  and  the 
place  where  the  second  Minister  resides.  A  commodious  chapel, 
built  of  wood,  with  a  dwelling-house  and  several  acres  of  land, 
at  this  place,  were  generously  presented  to  the  Society,  in  the 
year  1836,  by  Angus  Melville,  Esq.  The  buildings  were  com- 
pletely demolished  by  the  hurricane  of  1847;  but  they  have 
been  succeeded  by  more  permanent  and  commodious  erections, 
wdiich  occupy  a  situation  not  very  easy  of  access,  the  roads 
being  very  bad  in  this  locality.  This  station  is  also  favoured 
wdtli  a  day  school. 

Mason  Hall  is  also  an  interesting  out-station,  about  four 
miles  from  the  capital  in  another  direction.  Preaching  was 
commenced  here,  and  a  chapel  erected,  by  the  Eev.  John  Wood, 
in  1838  ;  and  a  society  was  formed  by  the  Kev.  George  Ranyell 
in  the  following  year.  The  prospect  was  very  discouraging  for 
some  time ;  but  afterward  a  delightful  change  was  manifested 
in  the  disposition  of  the  people  to  hear  the  word,  and  there  was 
a  large  in-gathering  of  precious  souls  into  the  church  of  Christ. 
The  prosperity  at  this  station  was  so  rapid  and  remarkable,  that 
it  became  necessary  to  enlarge  the  chapel  repeatedly  to  accom- 
modate the  crowds  of  people  who  flocked  to  hear  the  word  of 
God.  The  first  enlargement  of  the  chapel  was  efl"ected  under 
the  superintendency  of  the  Eev.  James  Bickford,  who  on  one 
evening  received  eighty  candidates  for  membership.  The 
second  enlargement  was,  in  fact,  a  re-erection ;  for  the  chapel 
was  removed  and  rebuilt  on  a  larger  scale  by  the  Eev.  Henry 
Hurd,  on  a  lot  of  land  generously  presented  to  the  Society  by 
John  Brynoe,  Esq.,  the  proprietor  of  Nutmeg  Grove  estate,  and 
was  secured  to  tlie  Connexion  by  Mr.  Bickford,  previous  to  his 
leaving  the  station. 

Of  late  years  the  Missionaries  have  extended  their  labours  to 
Courland,  Englishman's  Bay,  Man-of-war  Bay,  and  other  long- 
neglected  places,  with  great  advantage  to  the  people,  who  were 
previously*in  a  most  destitute  and  degraded  condition.  When 
Mr.  Bickford  first  visited  Englishman's  Bay,  there  had  never 
before  been  a  Christian  INIinister  there  of  any  denomination. 

There  are  now  in  Tobago  seven  Wesleyan  chapels,  two  Mis- 


CHAP.  VII. — THE    ISLAIS'D    OF    TRINIDAD.  367 

Monarles,  nine  Inindred  and  twenty-seven  cJinrch  members,  eight 
hundred  and  fifty-five  scholars,  and  two  thousand  five  hundred 
attendants  on  public  worship. 


CHAPTER  YII. 

THE  ISLAND  OF  TEINIDAD. 

Appeakance  of  Trinidad — The  Bocas — Discovered  by  Columbus— Settled 
by  Spaniards — Conquered  by  the  English — Aspect  of  the  Country — 
Soil  and  Climate — The  Pitch  Lake — Mud  Volcanoes — Natural  His- 
tory— Towns  and  Villages — Population — Religion  and  Morals — Wes- 
leyan  Missions — Early  Persecution — Extension  of  the  Work — Emanci- 
pation— Centenary  of  Methodism — Missionaries  raised  up — Mission 
Stations — Port  of  Spain — Diego  Martin — San  Fernando — Woodford 
Dale — Couva — Clapton's  Bay. 

It  was  on  Saturday,  the  3rd  of  February,  1837,  that  I  first 
saw  the  island  of  Trinidad,  as  I  stood  upon  the  deck  of  a 
brigaritine  by  which  we  had  obtained  a  passage  from  Grenada. 
The  appearance  of  the  northern  coast  is  rugged  and  wild  in  the 
extreme.  Above  a  rocky  beach,  washed  by  the  foaming  billows 
of  the  ocean,  may  be  seen  a  range  of  lofty  mountains,  covered 
with  perpetual  verdure,  but  without  any  signs  of  cultivation. 
On  approaching  the  land,  we  beheld  several  small  barren 
islands,  towering  to  a  considerable  height  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  with  narrow  passages  for  ships  between  them.  These  are 
the  Bocas,  the  largest  of  which  is  called  Boco  del  Brago,  "the 
Dragon's  Mouth."  The  detached  cliffs,  which  form  so  remark- 
able a  feature  in  the  scenery,  are  supposed  by  Humboldt  to  have 
once  formed  a  rocky  barrier  which  united  the  island  of  Trinidad 
to  the  continent  of  South  America ;  but  which  has  been  broken 
down,  either  by  some  mighty  convulsion  of  nature,  or  by  the 
powerful  volume  of  water  which  is  constantly  discharged  from 
the  numerous  mouths  of  the  Orinoco.     The  current  is  still  very 


368  PART   II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

strong  ;  and  the  navigation  is  intricate  and  dangerous,  especially 
if  the  breeze  fails.  We  passed  through  the  Bocas,  however,  in 
safety,  the  wind  being  in  our  favour ;  and  on  entering  the  Gulf 
of  Paria  about  sunset,  we  found  the  water  as  smooth  as  a  mill- 
pond.  On  sailing  up  the  coast,  the  prospect  was  still  rather 
dreary,  the  sugar  estates  being  chiefly  situated  in  other  parts  of 
the  island.  On  the  left  hand  we  could  faintly  distinguish  a  few 
small  settlements  in  the  valleys  and  bays  of  the  coast  of  Trinidad; 
and  on  the  right  we  beheld  the  distantblue  mountains  of  the  Spanish 
Main.  As  the  breeze  entirely  failed  soon  after  dark,  we  were- 
reluctantly  obliged  to  come  to  anchor  for  the  night.  The  cabin, 
and  hold,  and  every  place  belovf,  were  very  unpleasant,  from  the 
circumstance  of  the  vessel  having  been  employed  to  convey 
cattle  from  the  Spanish  Main ;  we  were  therefore  obliged  to 
sleep  on  the  deck,  which  was  attended  with  some  discomfort 
especially  to  my  dear  wife,  who  was  the  only  female  on  board. 

The  following  day  being  the  Sabbath,  we  were  anxious  to  get 
on  shore ;  and  a  light  breeze  having  sprung  up,  we  weighed 
anchor  early,  and  soon  came  in  sight  of  Port  of  Spain.  The  town 
being  situated  on  level  ground,  does  not  appear  to  advantage 
from  the  water ;  but  from  the  extent  of  the  shipping  in  the 
harbour,  the  importance  of  the  colony  is  clearly  indicated.  We 
landed  about  ten  o'clock  a.m.,  and  proceeded  at  once  to  the 
chapel  in  Hanover  Street,  where  I  assisted  my  respected  pre* 
decessor,  the  Eev.  George  Beard,  in  administering  the  sacra- 
ment of  the  Lord's  Supper,  and  preached  in  the  evening  to  a 
large  and  attentive  congregation. 

On  the  occasion  of  my  first  appointment  to  Trinidad,  I  spent 
three  happy  years  ;  and,  after  a  short  interval,  I  was  requested 
to  return,  and  take  charge  of  the  station  again,  which  I  did  with 
great  pleasure  for  two  years  longer,  up  to  the  time  of  our 
departure  from  the  West  Indies.  From  the  information  which 
I  collected  at  ditterent  periods,  and  from  my  own  observations 
during  my  protracted  residence  in  the  island,  I  am  enabled  to 
present  the  reader  with  the  following  brief  historical  sketch  of 
this  important  colony,  as  preparatory  to  some  account  of  our 
missionary  enterprise. 

The  island  of  Trinidad  is  situated  in  latitude  10'  39'  north* 


CHAP.    VII. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TRINIDAD.  369 

and  longitude  61"  34'  west.  Tt  was  discovered  by  the  enter- 
prising Columbus,  in  the  year  1498,  when  prosecuting  his 
fourth  voyage  to  tlie  western  world.  It  is  stated  by  the  his- 
torian Herrera,  that,  on  being  overtaken  by  a  dreadful  storm, 
which  threatened  the  destruction  of  his  fleet,  the  celebrated 
navigator  made  a  vow,  that  if  permitted  to  escape  from  his 
perilous  position,  the  first  land  he  discovered  should  be  called 
by  the  sacred  name  of  the  Holy  Trinity.  It  was  not  long  after- 
wards that  a  sailor  at  the  mast-head  descried  three  points  of 
land  on  the  distant  horizon,  when  the  remarkable  appearance, 
in  connexion  with  his  recent  vow,  induced  Columbus  to  pro- 
nounce it  Trinidad. 

This  island  was  regarded  by  the  Spaniards  as  a  convenient 
place  of  rendezvous,  from  its  contiguity  to  the  continent  of 
South  America,  and  the  mysterious  Orinoco,  which  were  dis- 
covered about  the  same  time,  and  were  supposed  to  be  the 
regions  of  gold.  The  settlement  first  formed  in  Trinidad  was 
never  intended  to  be  permanent :  hence  no  attention  was  paid 
to  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  or  the  improvement  of  the  country  ; 
and  it  was  quitted  altogether  as  often  as  the  Spanish  adventurers 
thouglit  proper  to  explore  other  regions.  It  was  not  until 
several  years  after  its  discovery,  when  the  golden  dream  of  the 
Orinoco  had  vanished,  that  a  few  straggling  Spaniards  returned 
to  the  island,  and  commenced  the  cultivation  of  cocoa,  an 
article  for  which  the  place  has  ever  since  been  so  famous. 

When  first  discovered,  Trinidad  was  inhabited  by  a  race  of 
Indians,  mild  and  peaceful  in  their  habits,  and  differing  entirely, 
in  their  appearance,  language,  government,  and  religion,  from 
the  warlike  Caribs  of  the  Leeward  Islands.  But  the  compara- 
lively  inoffensive  character  of  the  aborigines  did  not  secure  them 
from  the  cruelty  and  oppression  of  the  strangers.  The 
Spaniards  treated  these  simple  children  of  the  forest  with  great 
rigour ;  but  before  they  were  entirely  exterminated,  the  country 
fell  into  other  hands,  and  thus  a  remnant  was  spared,  the 
descendants  of  whom  still  occupy  settlements  at  Ariraa,  and  ip 
other  parts  of  the  island. 

The  golden  visions  of  the  sixteenth  century  were  not  con- 
fined to  Spain.     Many  persons  in  England  heard  of  the  wealth 

B   B 


370  PAKT    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

of  the  western  world,  and  longed  to  share  in  the  wonderful  dis- 
coveries which  were  then  being  made.  In  1599,  Sir  Walter 
Baleigh  headed  an  expedition  to  explore  the  mighty  Orinoco. 
On  the  22nd  of  March,  he  arrived  in  Trinidad,  attacked  the 
feeble  Spanish  garrison,  marched  up  to  St.  Joseph's,  the  capital, 
took  the  Governor  prisoner,  burned  the  town  to  ashes,  and  took 
possession  of  the  island.  Having  liberated  five  Indian  Chiefs, 
whom  he  found  confined  in  a  loathsome  dungeon,  and  adopted 
other  conciliatory  measures,  he  gained  the  friendship  of  the 
natives,  and  proceeded  up  the  Orinoco  with  two  or  three  small 
vessels,  leaving  his  largest  ships  at  Trinidad.  The  adventurer 
had  to  encounter  many  difficulties  in  ascending  the  river ;  and, 
as  he  pushed  forward,  he  met  with  extensive  swamps  and 
impenetrable  forests,  but  no  mountains  of  gold.  After  pro- 
ceeding about  four  hundred  miles  into  the  interior,  the  expedi- 
tion returned  with  feelings  of  bitter  disappointment,  and  aban- 
doned Trinidad  ;  and  the  indolent  Spaniards  were  again  left  in 
quiet  possession  of  the  country. 

In  1676,  the  colony  was  attacked  and  conquered  by  the 
French ;  but,  instead  of  remaining  to  enjoy  the  fruit  of  their 
victory,  they  plundered  the  town,  carried  off  every  thing  that 
was  valuable,  and  left  the  island  once  more  in  possession  of  its 
former  inhabitants. 

Nothing  remarkable  occurred  after  this,  until  1797,  when 
Trinidad  was  captured  by  the  British,  the  fleet  of  Eear-Admiral 
Harvey  acting  in  concert  with  the  land  forces  under  the  com- 
mand of  General  Abercrombie.*  By  the  Treaty  of  Amiens,  in 
1802,  the  colony  was  ceded  to  the  British  crown  in  perpetuity, 
and  has  ever  since  remained  in  our  possession. 

*  The  British  soldiers  landed,  on  the  17th  of  February,  at  a  sugar 
estate  called  Peru,  about  two  miles  from  Port  of  Spain,  and,  being  fatigued 
with  the  exertion  of  the  morning,  they  commenced  making  grog  on  rather 
a  large  scale.  They  broke  open  the  boiling-house  and  distillery,  emptied 
two  hogsheads  of  sugar  and  three  puncheons  of  rum  into  a  well,  and  then 
drew  up  the  beverage  by  means  of  a  rope  attached  to  a  bucket,  for  the 
refreshment  of  the  whole  company !  The  conduct  of  the  troops  on  this 
occasion  was  not  very  commendable,  but  the  contrary,  especially  when 
regarded  from  a  teetotal  point  of  view.  It  is  stated,  however,  that  on  the 
whole  the  soldiers  were  very  moderate  and  orderly  in  their  conduct  oa 
taking  possession  of  Trinidad. 


CHAP.   VII. — THE   ISLAND    OF    TEINIDAD.  371 

The  government  of  the  colony  was  confided  to  Sir  Thomas 
Picton,  a  man  of  persevering  energy,  and  peculiarly  adapted  for 
his  important  office,  although  much  persecuted  in  the  course  of 
his  public  career.  On  a  change  of  ministry  taking  place  in  the 
British  Cabinet,  the  colony  was  placed  under  the  government  of 
three  Commissioners ;  but  the  arrangement  resulted  in  nothing 
but  discord.  Sir  T.  Hislop  was  next  appointed  as  Governor, 
who,  in  1811,  was  succeeded  by  Major-General  W.  Monro. 
The  last-named  gentleman  had  only  been  in  office  two  years 
when  he  was  succeeded  by  Sir  Ealph  Woodford,  to  whom  tlie 
island  is  deeply  indebted  for  the  wisdom  and  energy  with 
which  he  laboured  to  promote  its  welfare. 

From  the  first  establishment  of  the  British  government  in 
Trinidad,  a  gradual  improvement  Avas  visible  in  the  colony  ;  but, 
on  the  appointment  of  Governor  Woodford,  the  progress  was 
still  more  rapid.  The  colony  received  a  large  accession  of 
European  settlers,  thousands  of  Negro  slaves  were  brought  from 
the  Leeward  Islands,  large  tracts  of  land  were  sold  by  Govern- 
ment, the  cultivation  of  the  ground  was  extended ;  and  the 
whole  country  exhibited  a  scene  of  activity  and  advancement, 
such  as  had  never  before  been  witnessed.  An  impulse  was  thus 
given  to  agricultui'e  and  commerce,  the  eftects  of  which  have 
•extended  down  to  the  present  time. 

The  island  of  Trinidad  is  about  eighty  miles  long  and  thirty 
ibroad ;  and  is  separated  from  the  continent  of  South  America 
by  the  Straits  of  Paria,  the  waters  of  which  are  generally  so 
smooth  that  they  are  navigated  by  native  canoes  with  perfect 
safety.  The  aspect  of  the  country  varies  considerably,  exhibit- 
ing to  the  view  in  some  places  mountains  of  considerable  alti- 
tude, and  in  others  extensive  tracts  of  land  with  a  gently 
undulating  surface.  The  cultivation  of  the  ground  has  been 
carried  on  to  a  considerable  extent  in  the  Naparimas,  Cara- 
piachaima,  and  other  districts  ;  but  there  are  thousands  of  acres 
of  excellent  land,  which  still  remain  in  nature's  wildness, 
covered  with  extensive  forests  of  the  finest  timber,  where  the 
sound  of  the  w^oodman's  axe  has  never  yet  been  heard. 

The  soil  is  peculiarly  rich  and  fertile,  and  well  adapted  fo* 
the  growth  of  every  kind  of  tropical  produce.  Sugar,  rum, 
2  B  2 


372  PART    II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

aud  cocoa  are,  however,  the  staple  articles  of  export.  T'rom 
the  low,  swampy  nature  of  the  land  in  some  places,  and  from 
the  extensive  impenetrable  forests  which  still  remain  in  others, 
the  climate  is  not  considered  so  healthy  as  that  of  the  smaller 
West  Indian  islands.  Trinidad  is  situated  beyond  the  rans^e  of 
the  desolating  hurricanes  which  have  so  frequently  laid  waste 
the  neighbouring  colonies.  Severe  shocks  of  earthquake  have, 
however,  been  felt  at  different  times ;  but  no  great  damage  has 
hitherto  been  done  by  them. 

The  most  remarkable  natural  curiosity  in  Trinidad  is  the 
Pitch  Lake,  which  is  situated  at  La  Brea,  about  thirty  miles 
from  Port  of  Spain.  The  atmosphere  is  impregnated  with  a 
stronsj  bituminous  odour,  which  is  perceptible  at  a  distance  of 
several  miles,  and  large  black  masses  of  asphaltum,  having  the 
appearance  of  rocks,  are  seen  on  the  shore.  As  you  near  the 
point,  you  see  the  land  covered  with  a  dense  forest,  save  in 
one  place  bordering  on  the  sea-shore  :  this  is  the  lake  or 
lagoon  of  pitch,  the  surface  of  which  can  scarcely  be  seen 
from  the  gulf.  On  landing,  a  respectable  little  village  pre- 
sents itself  to  the  view  ;  and  here  and  there  thick  layers  of 
asphaltum  overspread  the  surface  of  the  soil.  After  walking 
about  half  a  mile  you  meet  with  several  palm-thatched  houses, 
beyond  which  you  behold  the  mysterious  lake  of  pitch,  about  a 
mile  and  a  half  in  circumference,  and  nearly  surrounded  with 
forest  trees  and  jungle.  The  scene  is  stamped  with  a  strange, 
sombre  aspect,  which  language  cannot  describe.  The  greater 
portion  of  the  lake  consists  of  solid  masses  of  asphaltum,  inter- 
sected by  numerous  channels,  filled  with  dark-coloured  water. 
Tn  the  dry  season  you  may  step  over  most  of  these  channels ; 
but  before  you  have  proceeded  far,  you  come  to  a  part  of  the 
lagoon  where  a  mass  of  liquid  pitch,  covering  a  space  of  about 
three  acres,  is  constantly  bubbling  up,  so  as  to  give  motion  to  all 
around.  The  cottages  which  stand  on  the  verge  of  the  lake  are 
frequently  found  to  alter  their  position;  and,  being  built  of 
wood,  they  sometimes  hang  over  in  one  direction  and  sometimes 
in  another.  Several  cargoes  of  the  asphaltum  have  been  brought 
to  England  with  a  view  to  apply  it  to  some  useful  purpose.  It 
has  been  found  on  trial  to  be  too  dense  for  the  general  purposes 


CHAP.  YII. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TRINIDAD.  373 

for  Avhicli  Norway  pitch  and  tar  are  imported ;  but  it  has  been 
employed  with  advantage  as  fuel,  and  in  the  formation  of  pave- 
ments, and  will  probably  one  day  become  a  more  general  article 
of  export. 

Like  most  of  the  other  West  Indian  islands,  Trinidad  bears 
evident  marks  of  volcanic  eruptions  :  indeed,  there  are  now  two 
submarine  volcanoes  in  the  neighbourhood,  said  to  be  constantly 
in  action  :  one  to  the  south  of  La  Brea,  and  the  other  in  the 
Bay  of  Myaro.  These  often  bubble  and  throw  up  bitumen ; 
and  sometimes  even  smoke  and  fire  have  been  seen  at  night 
bursting  through  the  water.  There  are  also  a  number  of 
remarkable  mud  volcanoes  in  different  parts  of  the  country ; 
and,  although  several  miles  from  the  sea,  they  are  supposed, 
from  the  matter  which  they  frequently  discharge,  to  have  a 
connexion  with  the  ocean. 

This  island  is  peculiarly  rich  in  natural  history.  Of  animals 
we  have  the  deer,  monkey,  sloth,  ant-bear,  armadillo,  mangrove- 
dog,  tiger-cat,  manacoo,  porcupine,  lapo,  agoutie,  and  musk-hog. 
Among  the  birds  we  may  notice  the  vulture,  pelican,  red 
flamingo,  horned  screamer,  wild  turkey,  quail,  pigeon,  and 
parrots  and  humming-birds  in  great  variety.  Keptiles  and 
insects  are  also  numerous.  We  have  the  lizard,  iguano,  turtle, 
•tortoise,  and  serpents  of  various  kinds ;  also  wasps,  fire-flies, 
and  moths  in  almost  endless  variety.  The  vegetable  kingdom 
likewise  furnishes  numerous  specimens  in  every  department,  and 
would  amply  repay  the  researches  of  the  botanist. 

Although  the  colony  is  of  comparatively  modern  date,  it  can 
boast  of  a  number  of  considerable  towns  and  villages.  Port  of 
Spain,  the  present  capital,  is  a  beautiful  town,  and  in  some 
respects  surpasses  almost  every  other  in  the  West  Indies. 
The  streets  are  laid  out  at  right  angles,  and  so  straight  that  in 
some  places  you  may  see  nearly  a  mile  before  you.  It  is  also 
furnished  with  convenient  promenades,  shaded  by  lofty  trees, 
which  serve  to  screen  the  passengers  from  the  fiery  rays  of  a 
tropical  sun.  Brunswick  fequare  and  Marine  Square  are  very 
tastefully  laid  out.  Since  the  destructive  fire  of  1808,  which 
reduced  the  town  to  ashes,  the  houses  have  been  erected  in  a 
very  substantial  manner,  and  Port  of  Spain  now  contains  some 


374  PAET  II. — THE  WEST  INDIES. 

excellent  buildings.  The  government  offices,  Eoman  Catholic- 
church,  English  church,  Scotch  church,  and  Wesleyan  chapel, 
are  substantial  and  elegant  structures,  and,  like  most  of  the 
first-class  houses  in  the  town,  are  built  of  stone.  It  is,  more- 
over,  a  place  of  considerable  commerce  ;  and  an  extensive  trade 
is  carried  on,  not  only  with  the  more  remote  parts  of  the 
island,  but  also  with  the  Spanish  Main  across  the  Gulf  of  Paria. 
St.  Ann's,  the  residence  of  the  Governor,  about  a  mile  from  the- 
town,  is  a  delightful  country  mansion,  before  which  lies  Victoria 
Park,  as  level  as  a  boAvling-green,  and  more  than  a  mile 
in  circumference.  There  are  some  beautiful  drives  in  the 
neighbourhood,  and  altogether  it  is  a  pleasant  place  of 
residence.  The  population  of  Port  of  Spain  may  be  estimated 
at  twenty  thousand. 

The  town  which  ranks  next  to  the  capital  in  importance  is 
San  Fernando.  It  is  situated  on  the  eastern  coast,  about  thirty 
miles  from  the  Port  of  Spain,  and  is  accessible  only  by  water, 
the  intervening  country  being  intersected  by  immense  swamps 
and  impenetrable  jungle.  A  steamer  plies  daily  between  the 
two  places,  which  is  a  great  convenience  to  the  inhabitants* 
The  town  stands  on  the  side  of  a  hill,  and  is  seen  to  advantage 
from  the  deck  of  a  vessel  on  entering  the  harbour.  The  houses 
are  generally  built  of  wood,  and  neatly  painted.  The  popula- 
tion, which  has  been  rapidly  increasing  of  late  years,  may  now 
amount  to  ten  thousand.  St.  Joseph's  was  the  capital  of  the 
colony  in  ancient  times,  under  the  Spanish  Government ;  but  it 
has  now  dwindled  to  a  mere  village.  It  is  situated  about  eight 
miles  from  Port  of  Spain,  directly  inland.  Arima  is  another 
ancient  village,  about  ten  miles  further  on  the  same  road; 
Eesides  these  several  small  villages  and  hamlets  have  sprung  up 
in  various  parts  of  the  country  since  the  time  of  emancipation  ;. 
and  every  estate  has  its  village  of  labourers'  cottages,  the  same 
as  in  the  other  West  India  colonies. 

The  population  of  the  whole  island  may  now  be  reckoned  at 
seventy  thousand.  This  large  number  of  inhabitants  comprises- 
British,  French,  Spanish,  Portuguese,  Indians,  Coolies,  and; 
Africans  and  their  descendants.  In  this  colony  we  meet  with- 
persons  of  various  languages,  and  of  almost   every  shade   oi 


CHAP,  VII. — THE    ISLAND    OF   TRINIDAD.  375 

complexion.     The  most  numerous  class,  however,  is  that  which 
is  composed  of  persons  of  African  descent. 

The  prevailing  religion  is  Eoman  Catholicism ;  and  about 
three-fourths  of  the  population  profess  the  Romish  faith  from 
the  circumstance  of  their  having  been  baptized  into  it  in  their 
infancy,  although,  in  many  instances,  perfectly  ignorant  of  its 
principles  and  dogmas.  Port  of  Spain  has  its  Bishop,  cathedral, 
and  convent ;  and  about  thirty  Priests  are  located  in  different 
parts  of  the  country.  Of  late  years,  however.  Protestantism 
has  exerted  a  mighty  influence,  and  the  change  which  is  taking 
place  in  the  moral  and  social  aspect  of  society  is  of  the  most 
pleasing  character.  In  this  field  of  evangelical  labour  there 
have  recently  been  an  increased  number  of  Clergymen  of  the 
Church  of  England,  of  various  phases  of  sentiment.  The 
Scotch  Church  and  the  Baptists  have  both  established  Missions 
in  Port  of  Spain,  and  in  some  country  places,  which  have  been 
made  very  useful ;  but  we  must  now  proceed  to  give  a  few- 
particulars  of  the  rise  and  progress  of  Wesleyan  Missions, 
which  were  the  first  evangelical  Protestant  institutions  planted 
in  this  colony. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  present  century,  when  the  British 
government  became  permanently  established  in  the  island,  the 
moral  degradation  of  the  inhabitants  w^as,  if  possible,  greater 
than  that  of  the  other  West  India  colonies.  Hence  it  formed 
a  suitable  field  for  missionary  labour,  which  was  brought  to 
bear  upon  it,  in  the  order  of  Divine  Providence,  in  a  maimer 
quite  unexpected. 

In  his  History  of  the  West  Indies,  Dr.  Coke  had  announced 
the  intention  of  the  AYesleyan  Missionary  Society  to  commence 
a  Mission  in  Trinidad,  so  soon  as  circumstances  should  appear 
favourable  to  the  undertaking ;  but  such  were  the  unsettled 
state  of  the  colony,  and  the  prevailing  influence  of  Eomanism, 
that  nothing  could  be  done  for  several  years.  In  1809,  how- 
ever, the  Rev.  T.  Talboys,  one  of  the  Society's  Missionaries  in 
St.  Vincent's,  came  to  the  island  on  private  business,  and  was 
pleased  to  find  ten  or  twelve  pious  Wesleyans  from  the  Leeward 
Islands,  who  earnestly  entreated  him  to  exercise  his  ministry 
among  them.     According  to  their  request  he  preached  a  few 


376  PART    II. — THE    WEST   IlfDIES. 

times  in  private  houses  ;  numbers  flocked  to  hear  the  word,  and 
the  prospect  of  good  became  peculiarly  encouraging.  Under 
these  circumstances  the  Missionary  felt  disposed  to  protract  his 
stay  a  little  longer ;  and  indulged  the  hope  that  the  way  might 
open  for  the  permanent  establishment  of  a  Mission  among  a 
people  who  were  previously  so  destitute  of  the  means  of  religious 
instruction,  and  who  now  heard  the  word  with  gladness.  To 
this  proposed  arrangement  the  Missionary  Committee  in  London 
readily  assented,  on  being  made  acquainted  with  all  the  circum- 
stances of  the  case ;  and  Mr.  Talboys  commenced  a  regular 
course  of  religious  services,  which  were  evidently  crowned  with 
the  Divine  blessing. 

The  Mission  had  not  been  long  commenced,  however,  w^hen 
a  spirit  of  bitter  persecution  was  excited  against  the  Missionary 
and  his  people.  There  was  a  system  of  wickedness  at  that 
time  prevalent  in  the  island  which  the  faithful  preaching  of  the 
Gospel  threatened  to  destroy ;  and  the  hearts  of  the  guilty 
parties  were  moved  at  once  to  jealousy  and  rage.  The  enemies 
of  the  cross  at  first  attempted  to  interrupt  the  Minister  in  the 
performance  of  his  public  duty;  but,  on  finding  hundreds  of 
the  people  warmly  attached  to  his  cause,  they  were  deterred 
from  their  malicious  purpose.  When  one  plan  failed,  they  tried 
another.  After  some  time  they  induced  the  authorities  to 
require  the  Missionary  to  serve  in  the  ranks  of  the  militia.  In 
vain  he  pleaded  his  sacred  profession,  which,  by  the  law  of  the 
island,  exempted  him  from  this  duty.  The  man  of  God 
attempted  to  retire  for  a  short  time  to  the  residence  of  Charles 
Goin,  Esq.,*  of  Mauxico  Estate,  in  the  quarter  of  Arima;  but 

*  Not  onlj  iu  this  instance,  but  ou  several  other  occasions,  Mr.  Goin. 
showed  his  regard  for  the  cause  of  INIissions.  When  the  Missionaries  were 
hard  pressed  for  money  on  behalf  of  the  chapel  in  Port  of  Spain,  he  mort- 
gaged his  estate  to  raise  the  necessary  funds,  promptly  to  meet  the  obliga- 
tion, that  the  building  might  not  be  sold  ;  and  ultimately  gave  the  amount 
thus  advanced,  for  which  he  received  the  thanks  of  the  Committee  in 
London,  conveyed  in  the  handwriting  of  the  late  Rev.  Richard  Watson, 
who  was  one  of  the  General  Secretaries  at  the  time,  and  whose  letter  Mr. 
Goin  showed  me  with  evident  pleasure  the  first  time  I  visited  his  estate  to 
preach  to  his  people.  During  his  life-time  he  was  a  substantial  supporter 
of  the  work  of  God,  generously  contributing  £25  a  year  to  the  Mission 


CHAP   YII. — THE    ISLAND    OF   TRIXIDAD.  377 

liis  enemies  pursued  him  thither,  took  him  into  custody  on  the 
Lord's  Day,  marched  him  to  Port  of  Spain,  and  shut  him  up 
in  prison.  When  the  Governor  became  better  informed  on  the 
subject,  he  immediately  caused  Mr.  Talboys  to  be  released  from 
his  confinement ;  and  from  that  time  he  proceeded  in  his  work 
without  further  molestation,  being  favoured  with  cheering 
tokens  of  the  Divine  presence  and  blessing.  Before  he'  had 
been  in  the  island  twelve  months,  Mr.  Talboys  was  enabled  to 
report  to  Dr.  Coke  the  erection  of  a  little  chapel,  and  the 
organization  of  a  Christian  church  of  nearly  a  hundred  mem- 
bers, some  of  whom  had  been  brought  to  God  by  his  instru- 
mentality, whilst  others  had  known  something  of  the  power  of 
the  Gospel  in  the  islands  from  which  they  had  recently  come. 

After  labouring  for  about  three  years  in  Trinidad  with  great 
acceptance  and  success, — the  chapel  in  Port  of  Spain  having  been 
enlarged  in  the  mean  time,  to  accommodate  the  increasing  con- 
gregation, and  the  work  having  been  extended  to  several 
estates  in  the  country, — Mr.  Talboys  was  succeeded  by  the  Eev. 
Messrs.  Blackburn  and  Poole,  whose  labours  were  soon  inter- 
rupted by  the  gathering  of  a  dark  cloud  over  the  infant  Mission, 
which  threatened  its  entire  destruction. 

The  Governor  for  the  time  being  thought  proper  to  require 
all  Christian  teachers  to  sign  a  certain  document,  binding  them 
to  abstain  from  the  announcement  of  those  Scripture  doctrines 
which  were  thought  to  interfere  with  Eoman  Catholicism,  then 
the  dominant  religion  in  the  colony.  This  the  Wesleyan  Mis- 
sionaries conscientiously  refused  to  do ;  and  the  consequence 
was  that  the  Governor  caused  the  chapel  to  be  shut  up,  and  the 
people  were  deprived  of  the  public  means  of  grace.  An  appeal 
Avas  now  made  by  the  Society  at  home  to  the  King  of  England ; 
and  no  sooner  was  his  Britannic  Majesty  made  acquainted  with 
these  restrictive  and  persecuting  measures  than  he  sent  out 
instructions  to  the  Governor  of  Trinidad  that  every  hindrance 
should  be  removed,  and  that  the  Missionaries  should  be  allowed 
to  preach  the  Gospel  without  any  restrictions  whatever.     The 

fund,  besides  aiding  the  cause  in  various  other  ways.  He  died  in  peace 
in  Trinidad,  on  the  7th  of  April,  1848,  and  left  a  legacy  of  upwards  of 
£1,500  to  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society. 


378  PART    II. — THE    "WEST    INDIES. 

chapel  Avas  now  re-opened,  after  having  been  closed  twelve 
months  ;  and  the  remnant  of  the  scattered  flock  assembled  to- 
worship  God  with  grateful  hearts,  for  the  merciful  deliverance 
which  had  been  wrought  out  for  them. 

During  this  gloomy  night  of  persecution,  when  the  preaching 
of  the  Missionaries  was  prohibited  in  Trinidad,  the  members  of 
the  Society  used  to  assemble  in  private  houses,  and  other  retired 
places,  for  the  purpose  of  mutual  fellowship,  prayer,  and  ex- 
hortation. In  these  religious  meetings  they  frequently  realized 
the  presence  and  blessing  of  the  great  Head  of  the  Church  ; 
and  they  were  thus  enabled  patiently  to  await  the  return  of 
better  days. 

In  our  historical  sketches  we  have  repeatedly  had  occasion  to 
notice  a  retributive  Providence  in  the  fate  of  those  who  dared  to- 
take  a  prominent  part  in  opposing  the  progress  of  the  Gospel.  In 
no  place  was  this  more  remarkable  than  in  the  island  of  Trinidad. 
Several  of  the  principal  actors  in  the  early  persecution  of  the 
Missionaries  came  to  an  untimely  end.  One  met  with  a  watery 
grave,  under  circumstances  of  peculiar  horror;  another  was  taken 
to  Europe  a  perfect  maniac,  reason  having  fled  from  him  for  ever; 
while  a  third  passed  out  of  time  into  eternity  in  a  fit  of  raging 
madness,  apparently  forsaken  of  God  and  of  all  hope.  These 
facts  teach  an  admonitory  lesson  to  all  who  are  disposed  to 
indulge  in  a  sneering  persecuting  spirit. 

In  the  year  1820,  the  Eev.  S.  P.  Woolley  was  appointed  to 
labour  in  this  colony  ;  and  all  outward  opposition  to  the  preach- 
ing of  the  Gospel  having  ceased,  a  pleasing  measure  of  success 
was  realized.  On  the  2nd  of  March,  1826,  the  foundation 
stone  of  a  commodious  new  chapel  was  laid  by  Henry  Gloster, 
Esq.,  Chief  Protector  of  Slaves  ;  and  the  Mission  took  a  position 
in  the  estimation  of  the  public,  which,  by  the  favour  of  a  kind 
and  gracious  Providence,  it  has  ever  since  maintained.  When 
the  new  chapel  was  completed,  the  number  of  those  who 
attended  the  public  services  was  increased;  and  an  additional 
Missionary  having  been  appointed  to  the  station,  Tacarigua, 
Carapiachaima,  and  other  places  in  the  country,  were  visited, 
for  the  purpose  of  promoting  the  religious  instruction  of  the 
slave  population ;  but  little  fruit  was  realized  in  these  places. 


CHAP.  VII. — THE    ISLAIfD    OF   TRINIDAD.  379 

Slavery  here,  as  in  other  parts  of  the  West  Indies,  formed  the 
principal  barrier  to  the  preaching  of  the  Gospel ;  and  in  subse- 
quent years  the  Missionaries  confined  their  labours  chiefly  to 
the  town  and  its  vicinity.  As  the  period  of  emancipation 
approached,  prejudice  in  a  measure  subsided ;  and  renewed 
efforts  were  made  to  plant  the  Gospel  in  the  more  remote  parts 
of  the  island.  The  Eev.  Messrs.  Edraondson,  Stephenson, 
Pletcher,  Tidier,  Wood,  and  Beard  successively  laboured  in 
Port  of  Spain,  with  some  degree  of  success,  notwithstanding  the 
prevalence  of  Popish  error  and  superstition. 

On  my  first  appointment  to  Trinidad,  in  the  year  1838,  I 
found  that  the  Missionary  stationed  in  Port  of  Spain  had  con- 
fined his  labours  to  the  town  for  several  years  past.  Peeling 
impressed  with  the  conviction  that  the  time  was  come  when  we 
might,  with  a  fair  prospect  of  success,  extend  our  labours  to 
the  country  districts,  I  made  arrangements  with  the  Society 
accordingly,  and  was  instructed  to  procure  a  horse,  and  to  visit 
some  promising  spheres  of  labour,  which  appeared  to  be  accessi- 
ble. Whilst  I  was  pursuing  my  humble  labours  in  that  part  of 
the  island  which  had  the  capital  for  its  centre,  my  esteemed 
colleagues,  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Ranyell,  Bickford,  and  Hurd,  in 
succession,  were  itinerating  with  untiring  zeal  and  earnestness 
in  Naparina  and  Carapiachaima.  We  were  so  circumstanced  by 
distance,  and  the  difficulties  connected  with  travelling,  that  we 
could  only  visit  each  other,  and  effect  an  interchange  of  appoint- 
ments, about  once  a  quarter.  When  we  were  favoured  to  meet 
and  spend  a  day  or  two  together,  it  was  a  season  of  hallowed 
enjoyment  to  all  parties  ;  for  we  lived  and  laboured  together  as 
brethren  in  Christ,  our  hearts  being  united  by  stronger  ties 
than  those  of  earthly  friendship.  The  results  of  our  united 
efforts  will  best  appear  when  the  respective  stations  pass  under 
review.  In  the  mean  time,  a  few  interesting  incidents,  which 
occurred  in  connexion  with  my  own  department  of  the  work, 
may  be  briefly  noticed. 

The  emancipation  of  the  poor  slaves,  inaugurated  by  the  appren- 
ticeship system  in  1834,  during  my  residence  in  Deraerara,  was 
consummated  in  1838,  when  I  was  labouring  in  Trinidad.  All 
the  other  West  India  colonies  had  agreed  to  remit  the  remain- 


380  PART   IT. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

iiig  two  years  of  the  apprenticeship,  during  which  the  field 
labourers  were  to  serve  their  respective  masters ;  but  Trinidad 
still  held  back,  apparently  unwilling  to  make  the  sacrifice. 
Apprehensive  of  the  consequences,  if  our  people  should  be  kept 
longer  in  bondage,  whilst  all  the  rest  were  free,  I  felt  it  to  be 
my  duty  to  make  a  respectful,  but  very  plain  and  strong,  repre- 
sentation on  the  subject  to  His  Excellency  the  Governor,  Sir 
G.  F.  Hill.  I  have  reason  to  believe  that  this  had  a  good 
effect,  for  in  the  eleventh  liotir  the  Council  of  Trinidad  passed  a 
similar  resolution  to  those  which  had  been  adopted  in  the  other 
West  India  colonies  long  before,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  follow- 
ing communication,  which  I  received  from  His  Excellency, 
dated  "Government  House,  July  27th,  1888  :" — "The  measure 
adopted  on  the  25th  instant  by  Her  Majesty's  Council  of  Govern- 
ment, for  the  total  and  final  abrogation  of  every  vestige  of 
slavery  throughout  the  colony  of  Trinidad,  demands  the  grateful 
acknowledgment  of  this  Christian  community  to  Almighty  God, 
for  inspiring  the  conviction  which  has  led  to  this  important 
result.  I  therefore  submit  to  you  my  opinion,  and  request  that 
Divine  Service  should  be  performed  in  your  place  of  worship  on 
the  1st  of  next  month.  I  have  the  honour  to  be,  &c.,  G.  F. 
Hill." 

A  similar  communication  having  been  made  to  every  other 
Christian  Minister,  the  1st  of  August  was  observed  as  a  day  of 
general  thanksgiving,  and  the  respective  places  of  worship  were 
crowded  with  attentive  and  grateful  worshippers.  Oji  looking 
out  at  the  window  early  in  the  morning,  I  saw  a  poor  old 
woman  sitting  on  the  chapel  steps.  I  went  out  and  inquired 
what  had  brought  her  to  chapel  so  early.  She  replied,  "  0  my 
dear  Massa  Minister,  dey  been  sell  me  long  time  ago,  far  away 
in  de  countr}^,  and  me  neber  see  me  sweet  chapel  for  ten  years ; 
so  soon  as  me  free  a  go  come,  me  run,  and  me  run,  and  me 
neber  stop  till  me  come  to  me  sweet  chapel ;  and  now  me  want 
for  sit  here  till  de  doors  go  open  for  prayers  !  "  We  felt  much 
afiected  by  this  little  incident ;  for  poor  old  Sarah  had  walked 
from  Careenage,  a  distance  of  fourteen  miles,  since  midnight. 
After  being  asked  into  the  kitchen  to  take  some  refreshment,  the 
poor  old  woman  attended  the  services  of  the  sanctuary ;  and. 


CHAP.    VII. THE    ISLAND    OF    TRINIDAD.  381 

witli  hundreds  more,  presented  her  sincere  thanksgivings  to 
Almighty  God  for  having  spared  them  to  see  the  day  of  freedom. 
From  the  representations  made  by  old  Sarah,  it  appeared 
that  many  of  her  acquaintances  at  Careenage  woul'd  be  glad  to 
bear  the  Gospel,  if  they  had  the  opportunity  of  doing  so.  I 
therefore  resolved  to  make  a  visit  of  observation,  to  see  what 
could  be  done  for  a  district  totally  destitute  of  the  means  of 
religious  instruction.  I  started  off  on  horseback,  with  my 
hammock  fixed  to  the  saddle  behind.  The  road,  which  was 
very  rugged,  led  along  the  beach,  and  Avas  only  passable  at  low 
water.  On  reaching  the  place  I  found  it  situated  in  a  beautiful 
valley,  about  fourteen  miles  from  Port  of  Spain.  Having 
obtained  the  use  of  an  unoccupied  and  dilapidated  house,  I 
preached  in  the  evening  to  a  large  congregation,  consisting  of 
persons  as  ignorant  and  demoralized  as  can  possibly  be 
imagined,  many  of  whom  had  never  heard  a  Gospel  sermon 
before.  When  I  was  preparing  to  sling  my  hammock  in  the 
old  dilapidated  house,  without  doors  or  windows,  the  people 
earnestly  persuaded  me  not  to  do  so,  assuring  me  that  the 
vampire  bats  would  devour  me  before  morning.  As  they  offered 
to  find  me  a  lodging  in  a  Negro  hut,  I  accepted  of  their  offer, 
and  was  afterwards  glad  that  I  had  done  so  ;  for  I  found  in  the 
morning  that  my  poor  horse  had  been  severely  bitten  during 
the  night  by  the  ferocious  bats,  and  the  blood  had  flowed  down 
to  the  ground.  Amid  many  difficulties  I  persevered  in  visiting 
this  place.  We  fitted  up  a  temporary  chapel,  and  the  word 
preached  was  attended  with  a  gracious  influence.  In  a  short 
time  we  had  a  prosperous  Society  of  eighteen  members,  many 
of  whom  gave  evidence  of  a  change  of  heart.  After  my 
departure  this  promising  station  was  relinquished,  in  conse- 
quence of  its  distance  from  the  town,  and  the  difficulty  of 
supplying  it  with  preaching ;  but  I  cherish  the  hope  that  our 
humble  labours  will  appear  to  have  been  not  in  vain  in  the 
Lord. 

We  were  not  so  successful  in  our  efforts  to  establish  an  out 
station  at  St.  Joseph's,  the  former  capital  of  the  colony,  and 
one  of  the  strongholds  of  Roman  Catholicism.  I  am  free  to 
confess  that  this  was  a  signal  failure, — the  only  one  I  ever 


382  PART    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

experienced  during  the  entire  period  of  my  missionar}^  labours. 
I  hired  a  house,  and  opened  a  night-school,  which  was  well 
attended  whilst  the  lessons  continued ;  but  as  soon  as  the 
attempt  was  made  to  sing,  or  pray,  or  preach,  the  entire  con- 
gregation fled  as  if  the  house  were  set  on  fire.  They  were 
excited  to  this  strange  conduct  by  the  Priests,  who  stood  at  a 
distance,  looking  on  with  evident  delight,  having  previously 
cursed  us  from  the  altar ;  and  declared  tliat  if  any  of  the  people 
dared  to  attend  our  preaching  they  should  be  excommunicated, 
and  when  they  died  they  should  be  buried  like  dogs,  &c.  After 
attending  for  some  time  to  no  purpose,  we  were  obliged  to  give 
up  the  house,  and  relinquish  our  eff'orts. 

During  the  second  year  of  my  missionary  labours  in  Trinidad 
we  celebrated  the  Centenary  of  Methodism ;  and  in  no  part  of 
our  widely  extended  Connexion  was  there  manifested  more 
genuine  gratitude  and  joy  than  on  our  respective  stations  in 
that  island.  Divine  service  was  held  in  all  our  principal 
chapels  on  the  2oth  of  October,  1839  ;  and  both  children  and 
adults  were  treated  with  tea  and  cake.  In  Port  of  Spain  I 
preached  in  the  morning  from  Acts  v.  38,  39  :  "And  now  I 
say  unto  you,  Eefrain  from  these  men,  and  let  them  alone  :  for 
if  this  counsel  or  this  work  be  of  men,  it  will  come  to  nought ; 
but  if  it  be  of  God,  ye  cannot  overthrow  it ;  lest  haply  ye  be 
found  even  to  fight  against  God."  In  the  evening  I  expounded 
the  doctrines  and  discipline  of  jMethodism.  Our  people  also 
manifested  a  noble  spirit  of  liberality  on  the  occasion ;  so  that 
we  were  able  to  send  a  handsome  amount  of  subscriptions  to 
the  parent  fund,  as  weU  as  to  erect  our  own  local  Centenaiy 
monument,  in  the  form  of  a  school-house,  as  elsewhere  noticed. 

One  of  our  most  useful  and  interesting  departments  of  labour 
in  Port  of  Spain  was  the  religious  instruction  of  the  young.  We 
not  only  used  our  utmost  efforts  to  render  our  day  and  Sabbath 
schools  efficient  institutions  for  the  training  up  of  the  rising 
generation,  but  here,  as  in  other  places,  succeeded  in  forming 
a  Theological  Class,  or  Mutual  Improvement  Society,  for  the 
benefit  of  promising  young  men  of  our  congregation.  I  mention 
this  because  of  its  direct  bearing  upon  the  missionary  enterprise. 
In  this  instance  we  were  favoured  with  fruit  to  our  labours  of 


CHAP.    VII. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TRINIDAD.  383 

the  most  pleasing  character.  Of  six  young  men  who  pursued 
a  course  of  study,  from  week  to  week,  under  my  direction,  for 
their  general  benefit,  four  became  Preachers  of  the  Gospel,  three 
of  whom  were  ultimately  called  to  the  full  work  of  the  Ministry, 
and  were  honoured  to  labour  for  many  years  as  Christian  Mis- 
sionaries in  different  parts  of  the  world.  In  reference  to  these 
a  few  particulars  may  now  be  given. 

The  Rev.  William  Cleaver,  a  native  of  Trinidad,  was 
one  of  our  little  company.  Although  of  a  respectable  family, 
and  well  educated,  he  had  grown  up  an  entire  stranger  to 
experimental  and  practical  religion.  Whilst  very  young,  he  left 
home  to  live  on  a  small  cocoa  estate,  which  was  placed  under 
his  care  in  the  quarter  of  Arima.  The  first  serious  impressions 
wdiich  were  made  upon  his  mind  appear  to  have  been  occasioned 
by  th^  perusal  of  a  Bible  and  Prayer  Book,  sent  to  him  by  his 
dying  father.  Soon  after  this  he  lost  a  dear  brother,  whom  I 
attended  in  his  last  illness,  and  who  was,  through  mercy, 
brought  to  a  saving  knowledge  of  Christ.  These  repeated 
bereavements  were  sanctified  and  blessed  to  the  spiritual  good 
of  the  whole  family,  every  member  of  which  was  gathered  into 
the  fold  of  the  Eedeemer.  I  shall  never  forget  with  what  sub- 
mission to  the  will  of  God,  and  with  what  Christian  meekness, 
the  aged  mother  used  to  receive  my  pastoral  visits,  and  with 
what  pleasure  she  came  up  to  the  house  of  God  when  she  was 
able  to  do  so.  Her  daugliter  Margaret  was  brought  in  early 
life  to  love  the  Saviour,  and  was  thus  prepared  to  join  her 
father  and  her  brother  in  a  better  world,  to  which  honour  she 
was  soon  after  called.  Charles  was  savingly  converted  to  God, 
and  became  a  useful  Local  Preacher.  On  hearing  of  what  was 
going  on  at  home,  William  came  to  Port  of  Spain,  and  attended 
the  means  of  grace  with  the  rest  of  the  family.  The  very  first 
service  seems  to  have  produced  a  deep  and  lasting  impression 
upon  his  mind.  As  he  entered  the  chapel,  I  was  giving  out  the 
hymn  beginning,  "  W^ould  Jesus  have  the  sinner  die  ?  "  As  he 
afterwards  testified,  the  words  of  the  hymn  went  like  a  dagger 
to  his  heart,  whilst  the  discourse  which  followed  presented  the 
truth  to  his  mind  in  an  entirely  new  light.  He  returned  home 
more  deeply  convinced  of  sin  than  he  had  ever  been  before. 


384  PATIT   II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

He  wept,  and  praj'ed,  and  sought  the  Lord,  till  he  found  Him, 
to  the  joy  of  his  soul.  He  became  a  Sabbath-school  Teacher, 
an  Exhorter,  and  a  Local  Preacher.  He  joined  our  Theological 
Class,  pursued  a  course  of  study  under  my  direction ;  and  such 
was  his  proficiency  in  Christian  knowledge  and  experience  that 
within  two  years  from  the  time  of  his  conversion  he  stood 
before  the  District  Meeting  an  accepted  candidate  for  the  work  of 
the  ministry.  He  was  duly  received  by  the  Conference  of  1843, 
and  it  was  very  gratifying  to  rae  to  find  that,  on  my  leaving 
the  country  some  years  afterwards,  he  was  considered  qualified 
to  take  my  place,  and  was  appointed  accordingly  to  the  charge 
of  our  important  Mission  in  his  native  isle.  Nearly  twenty- 
years  have  passed  away  since  then,  during  which  period  Mr. 
Cleaver  has  laboured  faithfully  as  a  Missionary  in  the  St. 
Vincent's  and  Demerara  Districts,  and  has  been  respected  and 
beloved  on  all  the  stations  which  he  has  occupied. 

The  Eev.  Joshua  Jordan,  although  not  a  native  of 
Trinidad,  was  there  as  a  sojourner  on  my  arrival  in  the  island. 
I  was  much  impressed  with  his  youthful  zeal  and  earnest  piety ; 
and  I  soon  found  him  an  appropriate  sphere  of  labour,  not  only 
in  the  Sabbath  school,  but  also  as  teacher  of  the  Mission  day- 
school.  He  also  shared  the  benefit  of  the  Theological  Class, 
and  his  profiting  appeared  to  all.  From  the  fulness  of  his 
heart  he  was  ever  ready  to  proclaim  to  his  fellow  men  the  truth 
as  it  is  in  Jesus,  both  as  a  Class  Leader  and  Local  Preacher. 
Some  time  after  my  removal  from  the  station  he  was  called  to 
the  higher  Avork  of  the  Christian  ministry,  in  which  he  has  been 
usefully  engaged  for  many  years,  both  in  the  West  Indies  and 
in  British  North  America. 

The  Eev.  John  Gemley  was  originally  connected  with 
the  British  army,  and  on  my  first  acquaintance  with  him  he 
was  a  sprightly  juvenile  soldier.  Young  Gemley,  and  several 
of  his  comrades  at  St.  James's  Barracks,  used  to  attend  our 
chapel  in  Port  of  Spain ;  and,  by  the  blessing  of  God  upon, 
the  word  preached,  he  and  two  or  three  others  were  brought  to 
a  saving  knowledge  of  the  truth.  Being  struck  with  his 
superior  native  talent,  I  invited  him  to  join  our  Mutual  Im- 
provement Society ;  and  he  soon   distinguished  himself  in  the 


CHAP.    VII. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TUINIDAD.  3S5 

composition  of  liis  essays,  as  well  as  in  his  devotional  exercises. 
On  one  occasion,  when  prostrated  by  fever,  I  sent  for  Brother 
Garaley  to  conduct  the  Sabbath  evening  service  for  me ;  and 
with  considerable  diffidence  he  ascended  the  desk  in  his  regi- 
mentals, for  he  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  go  up  into  the 
pulpit.  He  was  much  blessed,  and  preached  an  excellent 
sermon.  He  has  often  been  heard  to  say  that  the  whole  of  his 
future  career  hinged  upon  the  effort  of  that  evening.  Being 
encouraged,  he  went  on,  and  the  Lord  was  with  him.  On 
leaving  Trinidad  I  helped  him  to  lit  up  such  a  portable  little 
library  as  a  soldier  is  permitted  to  carry,  and  he  continued  his 
studies  with  success.  On  reaching  Canada  he  obtained  his 
discharge  from  the  army,  and  entered  more  fully  into  tlie  service 
of  the  King  of  kings  and  Lord  of  lords.  He  became  a  Mission 
school  teacher,  a  candidate  for  the  ministry,  was  ultimately 
ordained  to  the  full  work,  and  has  for  many  years  been  a  most 
acceptable  and  useful  ^linister,  occupying  the  important  posts 
of  Chairman  of  a  District  and  Secretary  of  the  Canadian  Con- 
ference. 

Being  favoured  with  the  assistance  of  the  excellent  young 
men  of  whom  honourable  mention  has  just  been  made,  and 
with  that  of  some  others  who  wen;  raised  up  as  the  fruit  of 
missionary  labour  on  this  station,  the  work  of  the  Mission  was 
prosecuted  with  vigour  and  success.  An  institution,  called  the 
*'  Samaritan  Society,"  for  the  relief  of  the  sick  and  poor,  was 
organized,  and  effectively  worked,  mair.ly  by  their  activity  and 
zeal ;  and  prayer-meetings  were  established  in  various  parts  of 
the  town.  At  one  time  seven  of  these  meetings  were  held 
weekly,  with  the  most  cheering  results;  and  the  good  work 
became  consolidated  and  built  up  in  all  its  departments,  as  will 
appear  from  a  brief  survey  of  the  principal  stations  occupied 
by  our  Society  in  different  parts  of  the  island. 

Port  of  Spain,  the  capital  of  the  colony,  is  the  place  where 
the  Superintendent  Minister  resides;  and  he  has  to  preach 
almost  constantly  to  the  same  people,  the  interchanges  with  his 
colleagues  being  both  difficult  and  expensive.  We  have  com- 
pact and  convenient  Mission  premises  in  Hanover  Street,  con- 
sisting of  a  commodious  chapel,  Mission-House,  and   school- 

c  c 


386  PAUT   II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

room.  The  chapel  was  built  in  the  year  1825,  under  the 
direction  of  the  Rev.  P.  S.  Woolley,  at  a  cost  of-about  £3,000; 
and  in  1837,  the  congregation  having  considerably  increased, 
a  gallery  was  added  by  the  Eev.  George  Beard  ;  so  it  will  now 
seat  about  seven  hundred  persons.  The  building  was  thoroughly 
repaired  and  improved  by  the  late  Ptev.  John  Blackwell,  in 
1842 ;  and  it  is  now  a  neat  and  respectable  place  of  worship. 
The  congregations  have  generally  been  large  and  attentive,  and 
I  know  not  that  I  ever  ministered  with  greater  comfort,  and 
more  of  heavenly  unction,  than  in  this  hallowed  sanctuary.  It 
is  delightful  to  hear  that  of  late  years  the  attendance  has  so  far 
increased  under  the  able  ministry  of  Dr.  Horsford  and  others, 
who  have  successively  occupied  the  station,  that  there  is 
scarcely  room  to  accommodate  all  who  wish  to  hear  the  word  of 
life.  The  number  of  church  members  connected  with  the 
station  in  town  is  about  three  hundred.  On  my  first  appoint- 
ment to  this  station  in  1838,  the  Society  was  paying  at  the 
rate  of  £75  rent  per  annum  for  a  very  indifferent  house,  in 
which  the  Missionary  resided.  Regarding  this  as  an  extra- 
vagant expenditure,  I  made  an  arrangement  with  the  District 
Meeting  and  Missionary  Committee  for  the  erection  of  a  small 
out  convenient  Mission-House  on  a  suitable  site  adjoining  the 
chapel,  pledging  myself  that  the  entire  outlay  should  be  met  in 
a  few  years  by  the  money  saved  in  house-rent.  In  a  few  months 
the  building  was  completed,  and  we  removed  into  it,  thankful 
for  the  enjoyment  of  a  comfortable  residence,  and  rejoicing  in 
the  thought  that  henceforth  a  serious  item  of  expense  would  be 
saved  to  the  funds  of  the  Mission. 

Previous  to  the  era  of  emancipation,  little  or  nothing  had  been 
done  towards  establishing  Wesleyan  day  schools  in  Trinidad. 
We  therefore  resolved  to  commemorate  the  centenary  of  Me- 
thodism, in  1839,  by  the  erection  of  a  school-house,  on  the 
Mission  premises  in  Port  of  Spain.  We  held  a  preliminary 
meeting,  at  which  a  fine  spirit  of  Christian  zeal  and  liberality 
was  displayed.  Some  contributed  money,  and  others  gave 
labour.  We  set  to  work  in  good  earnest,  and  in  a  few  months 
the  building  was  completed,  at  a  cost  of  £135,  the  whole  of 
which  was  raised  among  a  poor  but  pious  people.    My  esteemed 


CHAP.    VII. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TRINIDAD.  387 

colleague,  the  Eev.  James  Bickford,  entered  heartily  into  this 
work  ;  and  he  and  his  people  at  Couva  rendered  substantial  aid 
by  their  zeal  and  liberality.  I  immediately  engaged  a  respect- 
ble  young  man  as  a  teacher,  and  the  day  school  was  opened 
under  circumstances  of  great  promise.  At  first  we  knew  not 
where  we  should  obtain  the  means  of  paying  the  teacher's 
salary,  and  of  defraying  other  expenses ;  but  Divine  Providence 
opened  the  way  before  us,  and  raised  up  friends  where  we  least 
expected  them.  The  school  continued  to  prosper  from  year  to 
year ;  and,  under  the  able  teaching  of  Messrs.  Cleaver,  Jordan, 
and  Lawrance  in  succession,  it  became  a  very  important  educa- 
tional establishment,  being  generally  regarded  as  the  best 
common  school  in  the  island.  The  last  public  examination 
■which  was  held  previous  to  my  leaving  the  colony,  was  of  a 
very  pleasing  character,  and  would  have  delighted  the  friends 
of  Missions,  could  they  have  witnessed  it.  The  exercises  took 
an  extensive  range  in  general  history,  geography,  and  chronology, 
with  a  more  minute  examination  on  the  histories  of  England 
and  Trinidad.  Although  all  the  scholars  were  black  or  coloured 
children,  they  evinced  an  astonishing  degree  of  intelligence.  In 
answer  to  the  questions  proposed,  they  gave  the  names  of  all 
the  Kings  and  Queens  who  have  reigned  in  England,  with  the 
principal  events  in  each  reign  ;  and  the  names  and  situation  of 
the  principal  mountains,  rivers,  lakes,  islands,  and  capes  in  the 
world.  They  also  showed  a  familiar  acquaintance  wdth  other 
branches  of  secular  knowledge ;  the  specimens  of  reading, 
writing,  and  arithmetic  were  very  creditable ;  and  their  know- 
ledge of  Scripture  geography,  history,  and  chronology,  was 
still  more  remarkable;  and  they  proved  themselves  to  be  well 
versed  in  the  doctrines  and  precepts  of  religion,  as  set  forth  in 
the  Scriptures,  catechisms,  and  hymns  which  they  had  learned, 
to  an  extent  which  I  have  never  known  surpassed.  The 
exercises  continued  for  more  than  five  hours,  the  children  sing- 
ing a  number  of  beautiful  pieces  at  intervals  ;  and  the  congrega- 
tion, which  included  some  of  the  leading  official  gentlemen  of 
the  colony,  appeared  highly  delighted  with  the  proceedings. 
Lord  Harris,  the  Governor,  took  a  lively  interest  in  this,  as 
well  as  in  other  schools  in  the  island,  and  not  only  visited  them, 

2  c  2 


388  PAET    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

to  see  the  mode  of  their  working,  but  gave  annual  prizes  for 
public  competition,  many  of  the  highest  of  which  were  carried 
off  by  scholars  from  the  Port  of  Spain  Wesleyan  Mission 
School.  Since  this  auspicious  commencement  of  our  educa- 
tional work  in  Trinidad,  the  colonial  Government  has  intro- 
duced a  general  system  of  secular  education,  which  has  seriously 
interfered  with  the  interests  of  denominational  schools ;  but 
whatever  may  be  the  course  of  political  events  in  future  in 
relation  to  this  subject,  we  would  gratefully  recognise  the  good 
that  has  already  been  done  by  the  day  and  Sabbath  schools  on 
this  station. 

The  Coolie  Mission.  At  the  time  of  emancipation  a 
number  of  field  labourers,  possessed  of  superior  abilities  and  a 
smattering  of  education,  finding  that  they  could  improve  their 
circumstances  by  a  change  of  employment,  laid  aside  the  hoe 
and  cutlass,  and  engaged  themselves  as  overseers,  shopkeepers, 
and  clerks,  in  the  towns  and  villages.  These  changes  caused  a 
lack  of  agricultural  labourers,  which  the  government  endea- 
voured to  supply  by  the  introduction,  from  time  to  tim.e,  of 
many  thousands  of  Indian  Coolies,  who  brought  with  them  all 
their  superstitious  and  demoralizing  habits.  To  counteract,  as 
far  as  possible,  the  injurious  efiects  of  this  very  doubtful  politi- 
cal measure,  and  to  benefit  the  poor  deluded  heathens  thus 
brought  as  strangers  to  a  strange  country,  a  Llission  has  been 
commenced  for  their  benefit.  With  the  first  importation  of 
Coolie  labourers,  which  arrived  whilst  I  was  stationed  in  Trini- 
dad, the  Missionaries  in  India  kindly  sent  a  supply  of  tracts  in 
the  native  language  of  the  people,  which  we  distributed  among 
them,  and  did  our  utmost  to  promote  their  temporal  and  spirit- 
ual well-being.  These  early  efforts  were  followed  by  still  more 
efficient  arrangements  made  by  Dr.  Horsford,  and  other  Mis- 
sionaries, for  the  benefit  of  these  interesting  strangers.  An 
intelligent  Coolie  having  been  brought  to  a  knowledge  of  the 
truth,  and  baptized  by  the  honoured  name  of  Samuel  Shaftes- 
bury, is  now  usefully  employed  as  a  Catechist  in  the  religious 
instruction  of  his  fellow  countrymen  ;  a  number  of  whom  have 
been  savingly  converted  to  God,  and  thirty-one  have  been  united 
together  in  church  fellowship.     The  results  of  this  Mission  have 


CHAP.    VII. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TRINIDAD.  389 

already  been  very  encouraging ;  and  still  greater  good  may  be 
.anticipated  in  time  to  come. 

Diego  Martin  is  an  important  out-station  situated  in  a 
fertile  and  romantic  valley  of  that  name,  about  eight  miles  from 
Port  of  Spain,  from  whence  it  is  supplied  with  missionaiy 
labour.  Several  people  having  been  brought  from  Tortola  in 
the  time  of  slavery,  and  located  on  some  sugar  estates  in  this 
valley,  I  paid  them  a  visit  soon  after  my  arrival  in  Trinidad,  in 
1838,  and  found  them  anxious  to  hear  the  Gospel.  After 
preaching  to  them  for  some  time  in  a  native  hut,  we  held  a 
meeting  to  consider  what  measures  could  be  adopted  to  obtain 
-a  suitable  place  of  worship.  Although  the  people  were  poor, 
they  resolved  to  make  a  strenuous  effort  to  build  a  little  chapel. 
Some  promised  to  go  into  the  mountain  and  cut  a  number  of 
posts  ;  others  engaged  to  provide  rafters ;  and  the  women  and 
children  were  to  bring  the  sticks  for  wattling  and  the  tra%Ji  for 
thatching  thp  roof  of  the  building;  while  the  planters  gene- 
rously offered  the  loan  of  their  carts  and  cattle  to  convey  the 
lieavy  materials  to  the  appointed  place.  Having  obtained  bj 
purchase,  at  a  moderate  price,  a  suitable  lot  of  land  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  valley  and  of  the  population,  all  hands  set  to  work ; 
every  Saturday — the  labourer's  own  day — being  devoted  to  these 
preparatory  labours.  When  the  building  materials  had  been 
collected,  and  every  thing  was  ready,  I  went  out  several  weeks 
in  succession  to  superintend  the  work ;  and  in  a  short  time  the 
sanctuary  was  completed,  to  the  joy  of  all  parties  concerned. 
This  was  a  humble  edifice,  but  it  often  proved  to  be  a  Bethely 
•and  was  frequently  filled  not  only  with  attentive  hearers,  but 
with  the  presence  and  glory  of  God.  The  work  of  the  Lord 
continued  to  prosper,  and  we  soon  had  an  interesting  society  of 
eighty  members.  Several  years  afterwards,  when  this  native 
chapel  had  become  much  dilapidated,  it  was  succeeded  by  a 
more  substantial  erection,  under  the  superintendence  of  my 
worthy  successor,  the  late  Eev.  John  Blackwell.  Tn  this  place 
the  people  still  worship  ;  and  a  day  school  has  also  been  esta- 
blished for  the  religious  and  secular  instruction  of  the  rising 
generation. 

San  Fernando  may  be  regarded  as  the  station   next  in 


/ 


390  PART    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

importance  to  Port  of  Spain.  It  is  the  place  where  the  second 
Minister  resides,  and  the  centre  of  a  large  agricultnral  popula- 
tion. The  introduction  of  tlie  Gospel  to  this  part  of  the  island 
was  attended  with  evident  marks  of  Divine  interposition  worthy 
of  record.  So  recently  as  1834,  there  was  not  a  Protestant 
Minister  in  the  whole  of  this  section  of  the  country,  the  only 
two  Clergymen  in  the  island  being  employed  in  Port  of  Spain^ 
one  as  Kector  of  Trinity  Church,  and  the  other  as  Garrison 
Chaplain.*  At  that  period,  a  second  Wesleyan  Missionary 
having  been  appointed  to  Trinidad,  arrangements  were  made- 
for  the  Kev.  John  Mann  to  reside  at  San  Fernando,  and  ta 
itinerate  among  the  estates  in  Naparima,  whilst  his  Superin- 
tendent continued  his  useful  labours  in  Port  of  Spain.  Mr. 
Mann  was  very  laborious  and  successful  as  a  Missionary  pioneer 
in  this  moral  wilderness.  He  found  a  number  of  people  on 
Palmist,  Dumfries,  Jordan  Hill,  Woodford  Dale,  and  other 
estates,  who  had  been  brought  from  the  Leeward  Islands,  where 
they  had  heard  our  Missionaries  preach,  and  were  consequently 
more  accessible  to  the  truth  than  others  who  had  been  trained 
up  in  Popish  or  pagan  darkness.  Among  these  he  commenced' 
his  labours  ;  and  was  much  encouraged  by  the  results  which  he- 
was  favoured  to  witness, — a  considerable  number  being  soon 
gathered  into  the  fold  of  Christ.  In  the  town  of  San  Pernando- 
Divine  service  was  conducted  in  the  dwelling-house  of  Mr.  John 
Cox,  until  a  building  was  purchased  by  the  Missionaries,  and 
converted  into  a  chapel  and  Minister's  residence.  The  place 
was  but  ill  adapted  for  the  purpose ;  but,  at  a  time  when  pre- 
judice ran  high,  it  was  regarded  as  quite  providential  to  obtain 
possession  of  a  place  we  could  call  our  own.  Mr.  Mann  was^ 
succeeded  by  the  Eev.  George  Hanyell,  who  was  animated  by 
the  same  spirit  of  missionary  zeal,  and  whose  labours  were 
owned  of  God  in  the  conversion  of  many  precious  souls.  On 
my  appointment  to  the  charge  of  the  Trinidad  Mission,  I  felt 
convinced  that  something  more  ought  to  be  done  for  San  Per- 

*  The  religious  necessities  of  Trinidad  are  much  better  provided  for  now.. 
Besides  an  additional  number  of  Clergymen,  Episcopalian,  Presbyterian, 
and  Baptist  Missionaries  have  entered  the  field  :  yet  there  is  stUl  room  for 
a  larger  number  of  evangelical  labourers. 


CHAP.    VII. THE    ISLAND    OF    TRINIDAD.  391 

nanclo ;  but  the  way  did  not  open  for  some  time  afterwards, 
when  Mr.  Ilanyell  had  been  succeeded  by  the  Rev.  James  Bick- 
ford.  When  circumstances  seemed  to  favour  a  commencement, 
we  made  application  to  His  Excellency  Sir  Henry  M'L :od,  the 
Governor  for  the  time  being,  and  obtained  a  grant  of  a  suitable 
piece  of  land  on  the  side  of  the  hill  overlooking  the  town  and 
harbour,  where  we  afterwards  erected  a  chapel  and  Mission- 
House,  on  the  same  plan  and  of  the  same  dimensions  as  those  in 
Port  of  Spain.  The  labour  and  responsibility  connected  with 
this  undertaking  were  great ;  but  I  was  nobly  aided  by  my 
esteemed  colleagues,  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Ranyell,  Bickford,  and 
Hurd,  who  successively  occupied  the  station  during  the  years 
that  this  important  enterprise  was  in  progress.  By  a  particular 
providence,  we  sold  the  old  building  for  nearly  three  times  the 
amount  of  its  original  cost,  the  value  of  property  having 
rapidly  risen  in  the  interim  :  the  contributions  of  the  people  were 
also  very  liberal ;  so  that  we  were  enabled  to  complete  this 
respectable  missionary  establishment  without  any  aid  from  the 
Parent  Society.  Amid  numerous  difficulties,  the  cause  of  God 
has  continued  to  advance  at  San  Pernando  ;  and  the  establish- 
ment of  a  day  school,  in  addition  to  one  previously  commenced 
on  the  Sabbath,  has  provided  ample  facilities  for  the  education 
of  the  rising  generation. 

Woodford  Dale  is  an  interesting  out-station  connected 
with  San  Pernando,  and  central  to  a  number  of  populous  estates. 
In  18-i4  a  piece  of  land  was  obtained,  and  a  neat  little  chapel 
erected  by  the  zealous  efforts  of  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Limmex.  and 
Brown.  To  supply  this  and  other  places  in  the  Naparimas  with 
preaching,  the  San  Pernando  Missionary  has  to  travel  over  very 
bad  roads  in  the  rainy  season ;  but  he  is  generally  compensatet. 
for  his  toil  by  the  devout  attention  of  a  loving  people.  A  small 
day  school  has  been  established  here,  which  has  been  the  means 
of  communicating  instruction  to  a  number  of  children,  who  must 
otherwise  have  grown  up  in  the  grossest  ignorance. 

CoTJVA  is  the  name  given  to  a  district  or  hamlet,  rather  than 
a  village.  The  place  where  our  Mission  station  is  established,  is 
in  the  centre  of  a  dense  population,  about  midway  between 
Port  of  Spain  and  San  Pernando,  and  about  fifteen  miles  from 


392  PAKT   II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

each.  Like  most  of  the  other  places  on  this  coast,  it  is  acces  sible 
only  by  water  from  the  capital ;  but  a  steamer  which  plies  daily 
in  the  Gulf  of  Paria,  generally  calls  at  New  Bay  for  the  con- 
venience of  passengers.  Mr.  Mann  had  the  honour  of  being  the 
first  Missionary  who  itinerated  in  this  part  of  the  island.  He 
preached  with  considerable  success  on  Felicity  Hall,  Exchange, 
Carolina,  Milton,  Cedar  Hill,  and  other  estates,  where  the  people 
generally  manifested  an  anxious  desire  to  hear  the  Gospel.  Mr. 
Eanyell  was  next  appointed  to  labour  in  this  locality,  who,  in 
connexion  with  his  Superintendent,  the  Rev.  George  Beard,  suc- 
ceeded in  obtaining  a  respectable  list  of  subscriptions  towards 
the  erection  of  a  chapel  and  Mission-House  on  a  piece  of  land 
kindly  granted  by  Government  for  the  purpose.  This  under- 
taking was  commenced  before  my  arrival  in  the  island,  and  was 
completed  during  the  first  year  of  my  appointment.  The  sub- 
scription list  exhibits  some  splendid  specimens  of  Christian 
liberality.  One  gentleman  contributed  i650,  and  several  £20 
and  £10  each ;  so  that,  with  a  small  grant  from  the  Parent  So- 
ciety, the  buildings  were  soon  completed,  and  the  Mission  placed 
on  a  stable  and  permanent  footing.  The  chapel  is  on  the  ground- 
floor,  and  the  residence  of  the  Minister  above.  The  station 
occupies  a  somewhat  lonely  situation  on  a  savanna  or  plain, 
with  no  other  house  near  to  it.  The  people  attend  the  chapel 
in  considerable  numbers,  however,  from  the  surrounding  estates, 
on  which  the  Missionary'"  frequently  preaches  during  the  week  ; 
and  a  day  school  is  taught  in  the  chapel  by  an  efiScient  native 
teacher.  From  the  low  and  swampy  situation  of  the  neighbour- 
hood, Couva  is  not  by  any  means  so  favourable  to  health  and 
comfort  as  some  other  stations,  and  I  have  some  affecting  remi- 
niscences of  the  circumstances  connected  with  the  affliction  of 
my  beloved  colleague,  Mr.  Bickford,  as  also  of  the  sickness  of 
his  successors,  Messrs.  Durrie  and  Heath.  Of  late  years  the 
station  has  been  supplied  by  a  native  teacher,  who  lias  prose- 
cuted his  work  with  comparative  health  and  comfort. 

Claxton's  Bay,  about  half-way  between  Couva  and  San 
Fernando,  is  comparatively  a  new  village.  Being  at  a  convenient 
distance  from  Cedar  Hill,  and  other  estates,  where  we  have  a 
considerable  number  of  members,  it  was  considered  desirable  to 


CHAP.    VII. — THE    ISLAND    OF    TRINIDAD.  393 

form  a  permanent  establishment  there.  Accordingly  a  com- 
modious chapel  was  erected  on  a  beautiful  and  commanding 
elevation,  in  the  rear  of  the  village,  under  the  direction  of  the 
Eev.  William  Heath,  in  the  year  1845.  The  public  services 
are  well  attended ;  and,  as  the  population  is  rapidly  increasing, 
this  will  no  doubt  become  a  still  more  important  station.  Eor 
several  years  an  infant  school  was  connected  with  this  place,  of  a 
very  interesting  character.  When  the  Missionary  first  visited 
Cedar  Hill  estate,  among  a  hundred  slaves,  he  found  a  few  who 
were  able  to  read ;  the  most  intelligent  of  whom  was  a  young 
woman  named  Venetia  Percival.  She  was  among  the  first-fruits  of 
missionary  labour  at  this  place,  and  appeared  marked  out  by 
Divine  Providence  as  an  instrument  of  good  to  those  around  her. 
Having  obtained  her  freedom,  she  was  usefully  employed  in 
teaching  the  children  on  the  estate,  as  well  as  in  leading  a  Class, 
and  other  useful  labours.  On  entering  the  chapel,  a  large  portion 
of  the  congregation  may  be  seen  with  Bibles  and  hymn-books  in 
their  hands,  many  of  whom  were  indebted  to  Yenetia  Percival  in 
early  life  for  their  first  instruction  in  the  art  of  reading,  as  well  as 
for  religious  counsel.  Our  infant  schools  at  Cedar  Hill  and  other 
places  were  largely  indebted  also  to  the  kindness  of  members  of 
the  "  Society  of  Priends"  in  England,  connected  with  the 
"  London  Central  Negroes'  Priend  Society,"  and  other  similar 
philanthropic  institutions,  who  frequently  made  grants  for  their 
support,  in  consequence  of  the  representations  made  to  them 
through  my  dear  friend,  the  late  Philip  Thompson,  of  Wood- 
bridge. 

In  prosecuting  our  missionary  labours  in  the  country  districts  of 
Trinidad,  we  generally  commenced  our  efibrts  among  the  people 
who  had  been  brought  from  other  islands.  This  plan  appeared  to 
be  the  most  expedient,  not  only  because  we  found  these  people 
more  free  from  Popish  superstition  than  the  natives  of  the  colony, 
but  many  of  them  had  heard  the  Gospel  from  the  lips  of  our 
Missionaries  in  the  places  from  wdiich  they  had  been  brought ; 
and  w^ere  consequently  more  readily  impressed  with  the  truth 
when  it  was  again  proclaimed  in  their  hearing.  But  our  atten- 
tion was  not  confined  to  these.  As  God  is  no  respecter  of  per- 
sons, so  we  delivered  our  message  to  all  who  came  within  the 


394  PAllT   II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

sphere  of  our  influence ;  and  by  the  blessing  of  God  we  were- 
favoured  to  see  persons  of  all  classes, — native  Africans,  Creoles, 
whites,  coloured,  Papists,  and  Protestants, — brought  to  a  saving 
knowledge  of  the  truth,  many  of  whom  we  trust  will  be  "  our  joy 
and  the  crown  of  our  rejoicing  in  the  day  of  the  Lord."  We 
have  now,  in  connexion  with  our  Trinidad  Mission,  sLv  chapels, 
eigJit  other  jpreacldmj- places,  two  Missionaries,  eight  hundred  and 
nine  church  members,  two  hundred  and  sixty  scholars  in  the  Mis- 
sion schools,  and  seventeen  hundred  attendants  on  public  worship^ 


CHAPTER  YIII. 

SUPPLEME>^TAEY  INCIDENTS. 

Missionary  Toils  and  Exposure — Visit  to  America — Embarkation — 
St.  Thomas' — Bermuda — Mau-of-"\Yar  Class  Meeting — Pliiladelphia— 
New  York — General  Conference — American  Metliodism-  Second 
SHIP^YRECK— Thunder  Storm — Death  of  Boatman — Death  Averted — 
Providential  Deliverance — Return  to  England — Affecting  Parewcll 
— Safe  Arrival — "West  India  Question — Causes  of  Depression — 
— Suggestions^ — Hopeful  Euture. 

A  RESIDENCE  withiu  the  tropics  is  far  from  disagreeable  to 
those  who  are  so  circumstanced  as  to  be  able  to  indulge  in  the 
comforts  and  luxuries  of  life,  without  being  liable  to  excessive 
toil,  or  frequent  exposure  to  the  elements  of  nature.  But  with 
the  Christian  Missionary  it  is  somewhat  ditierent.  To  meet 
the  spiritual  wants  of  his  people,  he  must,  if  possible,  be  at  his 
post  of  duty  at  the  appointed  time,  regardless  of  the  state  of 
the  weather ;  and  he  has  often  to  travel  to  his  appointments 
through  the  burning  heat  of  the  sun ;  and,  on  his  return,  he  is 
frequently  exposed  to  the  chilling  dews  of  night.  In  crossing 
mountains  and  rivers,  and  in  performing  journeys  by  water  in 
small  open  boats  or  canoes,  he  is  often  liable  to  severe  wettings. 


CHAP.    YIII. — SUPPLEMENTAEY    INCIDENTS.  395 

to  say  nothing  of  the  fatigue  involved  in  such  undertakings,  in 
trying  climates.  In  addition  to  these  things,  which  severely 
test  his  physical  strength,  the  Missionary  has  often  to  go 
through  an  amount  of  ministerial  labour,  in  countries  where  the 
word  of  God  is  scarce,  which  is  perfectly  astonishing,  and  to 
which  the  ordinary  labours  of  a  Minister  at  home  bear  no  com- 
parison. In  the  West  Indies  it  is  not  the  mere  preaching  tln-ee 
or  four  times  a  day  which  is  so  trying.  It  is  more  especially 
the  weifjlii  and  lemjth  of  the  engagements,  when  two  or  three 
services  succeed  each  other  in  rapid  succession,  as  reading 
prayers,  preaching,  baptizing  a  score  or  two  of  children,  giving 
tickets  to  half  a  dozen  Classes,  Lovefeast,  or  administering  the 
sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  to  a  thousand  members, 
occupying  four  or  five  hours,  without  intermission ;  to  say 
nothing  of  other  pastoral  labours,  cares,  and  responsibilities, 
which  often  weigh  down  his  spirits.  These  labours  and  exer- 
cises make  an  impression  upon  the  most  wdry  and  vigorous 
constitutions,  after  a  number  of  years ;  and,  without  the  employ- 
ment of  appropriate  means,  the  Missionary  is  in  danger  of  being- 
brought  down  to  rise  no  more,  which  has  been  the  case  with 
many  a  faithful  labourer. 


VISIT  TO  AMERICA. 

Early  in  1844,  after  labouring  in  the  West  Indies  for  ten 
years,  with  but  few  interruptions  from  actual  sickness,  I  experi- 
enced such  a  serious  failure  of  health,  as  rendered  it  necessary 
either  to  quit  the  tropics  entirely,  or  to  take  a  voyage  for  a  few 
weeks  to  a  colder  climate.  Being  ardently  attached  to  the  Mis- 
sion work,  and  to  the  dear  brethren  with  Avhom  I  was  asso- 
ciated in  the  St.  Vincent's  District,  I  decided  on  the  latter 
expedient.  My  medical  attendant  recommended  a  voyage  to 
North  America;  and,  as  I  had  relatives  and  friends  in  the 
United  States,  to  whom  a  visit  from  me  would  be  very  agree- 
able, I  resolved  to  act  accordingly  ;  my  dear  wife  nobly  volun- 
teering to  remain  at  home,  and  attend  to  our  missionary  estab- 
lishment and  schools  at  Biabou,  where  we  were  stationed  at  the 


396  PART    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

time,  during  my  absence.  A  few  particulars  in  reference  to 
this  voyage  may  be  interesting  to  the  reader. 

On  Wednesday,  the  10th  of  April,  I  embarked  at  Kingston, 
on  board  the  steamer  "  Medway,"  bound  for  Bermuda.  My 
fellow  passengers,  about  thirty  in  number,  were  military  and 
naval  officers,  merchants,  planters,  and  private  gentlemen. 
Among  them  was  Mr.  Van  Buren,  son  of  the  Ex-President  of 
the  United  States,  and  his  amiable  lady,  to  whom  I  was  intro- 
duced, and  whom  I  found  very  agreeable  travelling  companions. 
The  "  Medway "  was  a  splendid  vessel,  two  hundred  and 
thirty  feet  long,  and  fitted  up  with  every  convenience. 

During  the  two  following  days  we  kept  steaming  along  to  the 
leeward  of  the  Caribbee  Islands  ;  and  called  to  deliver  the  mails, 
and  to  receive  and  land  passengers,  at  St.  Lucia,  Martinique, 
Dominica,  Guadaloupe,  Antigua,  Montserrat,  Xevis,  St.  Kitt's, 
and  Tortola  ;  of  some  of  these  islands  we  had  a  fine  view ;  and, 
altogether,  the  passage  was  interesting  and  agreeable.  I  had 
the  pleasure  of  meeting  with  Messrs.  Tregellis  and  Jessup, 
Quaker  Ministers,  on  a  visit  to  the  West  Indies,  whom  I  had 
previously  seen  and  entertained  at  my  house  in  St.  Vincent's. 
I  had  also  a  brief  interview  with  the  Kev.  J.  Horsford,  of 
Dominica,  and  my  old  friend,  the  llev.  J.  Pilcher,  who  scarcely 
recognised  me  after  ten  years'  labour  within  the  tropics  since 
we  last  saw  each  other. 

On  Saturday,  the  13th,  we  passed  through  a  narrow  channel 
among  the  A^gin  Islands,  and  entered  the  spacious  harbour  of 
St.  Thomas,  when  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  town  and  neigh- 
bourhood from  the  deck  of  the  steamer.  This  being  a  free  port 
for  vessels  of  all  nations,  it  is  much  resorted  to  ;  and  the  to^vn 
exhibits  a  degree  of  splendour  and  gaiety  not  seen  in  the  British 
West  India  colonies.  As  our  vessel  was  to  remain  at  St. 
Thomas'  for  a  day  or  two,  we  went  on  shore,  and  were  much 
pleased  with  the  appearance  of  the  place.  Having  been  intro- 
duced to  a  respectable  Jewish  merchant,  I  attended  the  syna- 
gogue in  company  .with  him,  and  witnessed  a  grand  religious 
ceremony, — the  confirmation  by  the  Eabbi  of  six  young  ladies ; 
after  which  he  preached  a  sermon  in  English.  I  also  called 
upon  the  Moravian  Missionary,  who  received  me  courteously ; 


CHAP.   VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY   INCIDENTS.  397 

but  regretted  that  lie  could  not  offer  me  Ids  pulpit,  in  conse- 
quence of  Wesleyan  Missionaries  being  prohibited  by  the  Danish 
authorities  from  preaching  in  this  island,  because  of  their  sup- 
posed abolition  principles. 

On  Sunday  morning  I  went  on  shore  again  in  company  with 
Mr.  Dennis,  a  young  man,  a  "Wesleyan,  who  came  on  board  at  an 
early  hour  to  introduce  himself  to  me.  In  the  forenoon  we  attended 
the  Moravian  chapel,  where  we  found  about  a  hundred  persons 
assembled,  and  heard  a  plain  practical  sermon.  At  the  close  of  the 
service  my  young  friend  introduced  me  to  several  pious  persons 
who  were  formerly  connected  with  our  stations  in  the  English 
islands.  We  next  proceeded  to  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church, 
where  we  heard  a  powerful  and  evangelical  sermon  from  the 
Eev.  Mr.  Brett,  an  American  Minister.  During  his  preaching  I 
felt  that  I  was  listening  to  a  man  of  God  ;  and  was  not  sorry 
when,  at  the  close  of  tlie  service,  he  sent  a  messenger,  to 
invite  me  to  an  interview  with  him  in  the  vestry.^  We  had  a 
very  agreeable  and  profitable  conversation ;  and  he  made  the 
same  apology  as  the  Moravian  Minister  had  done,  for  not  being 
able  to  offer  me  his  pulpit.  He  invited  me  to  visit  his  Sunday- 
school  in  the  afternoon,  which  I  did  with  great  pleasure.  I 
found  about  four  hundred  children  receiving  instruction.  I  then 
accompanied  Mr.  Dennis  to  the  house  of  a  pious  lady,  where  I 
met  several  Wesleyans  from  the  English  islands  ;  and  was  mucli 
affected  on  hearing  of  the  persecution  which  they  had  been  called 
to  pass  through  since  they  came  here  ;  and  of  the  entire  prohi- 
bition of  religious  meetings  among  them.  I  gave  them  such 
exhortation  and  counsel  as  tlie  time  would  allow,  and  com- 
mended them  to  God  in  prayer.  This  was  indeed  an  interesting 
day  in  a  foreign  land.  Soon  after  going  on  board  the  steamer 
in  the  evening,  we  weighed  anchor,  and  proceeded  on  our 
voyage. 

As  we  advanced  northwards,  I  enjoyed  the  bracing  influence 
of  the  cool  breeze,  and  my  health  rapidly  improved.  After  we 
had  been  at  sea  five  days  without  seeing  land,  Ave  made  Bermuda. 
As  we  steamed  along  the  coast,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  the  country, 
and  the  pretty  white  houses  built  of  freestone,  with  chimneys, 
which  reminded  me  of  happy  England.   We  came  to  anchor  about 


398  PART  ir. — THE  WEST  INDIES. 

ten  o'clock,  p.m.,  off  Ireland  Island;  and  the  next  morning  we 
went  on  shore,  to  \'iew  the  fortifications  and  the  prison-ships. 
We  saw  several  convicts  engaged  on  the  public  works  ;  and  were 
politely  conducted  through  the  various  departments  of  the 
establishments  by  one  of  the  officers.  On  returning  to  the 
steamer,  I  found  the  Rev.  W.  H.  Shenstone,  the  Wesleyan 
Minister  stationed  at  Bermuda,  and  accompanied  him  to  Hamil- 
ton, a  distance  of  about  four  miles. 

On  Sunday,  the  21st,  according  to  arrangement,  I  preached 
in  the  morning  at  Hamilton  to  a  large  congregation,  about 
three-fourths  of  whom  were  whites,  the  remainder  being  blacks 
and  persons  of  colour.  The  people  heard  with  attention,  and 
I  was  much  blessed  in  preaching  the  word ;  but  I  felt  pained 
at  the  distinction  which  appeared  to  be  made  on  the  ground  of 
complexion.  In  the  afternoon,  Mr.  Shenstone  drove  me  over 
to  St.  George's,  where  I  preached  in  the  evening  to  a  crowded 
congregation.  We  returned  to  Hamilton  about  midnight,  and 
the  following  day  was  spent  in  viewing  the  place  and  calling  on 
a  few  friends.  The  people  appeared  to  be  hearty,  lively,  and 
hospitable,  and  forcibly  reminded  me  of  the  Methodists  in  my 
own  native  Yorkshire. 

On  Tuesday,  Mr.  Shenstone  and  I  went  on  board  H.M.S. 
"  Illustrious,"  a  sailor  having  come  on  shore  to  request  us  to 
visit  the  vessel,  for  the  purpose  of  renewing  the  quarterly 
tickets  of  a  Class  of  Wesleyans  composed  entirely  of  man-of- 
war's  men.  On  reaching  the  ship,  we  first  inquired  for  the 
Admiral,  to  obtain  the  necessary  permission  to  go  below ;  but 
were  sorry  to  tind  that  he  was  on  shore.  We  were  politely 
received,  however,  by  the  officer  in  command,  who  informed  us 
that,  in  about  half-an-hour's  time,  when  they  had  finished 
certain  duties  in  which  they  were  engaged,  we  should  have  free 
access  to  the  men  for  the  purpose  which  we  mentioned.  Having 
amused  ourselves  for  some  time  by  surveying  this  splendid  ves- 
sel, containing  nearly  seven  hundred  persons,  and  seen  the  men 
perform  various  evolutions,  during  which  the  band  was  playing, 
we  were  conducted  below  by  a  man  named  Madgwick,  the 
Leader  of  the  Class.  We  continued  to  descend  till  we  came  to 
the  store-room  below  the  fourth  deck,  where  the  members  held 


CHAP.    VIIT. — SUPPLEMENTARY    INCIDENTS.  399 

their  meetings.  The  men  soon  began  to  assemble  to  the  num- 
ber of  sixteen ;  with  whom  we  held  a  most  delightful  religious 
service  by  the  light  of  a  lantern.  The  Christian  experience  of 
these  pious  sailors  was  scriptural,  sound,  and  clear ;  and  they 
manifested  a  zeal  and  earnestness  in  the  affairs  of  religion  which 
was  truly  pleasing.  We  conversed  with  them  individually  and  col- 
lectively ;  and  whilst  we  were  engaged  in  praver  and  praise,  we 
realized  the  presence  of  Him  who  said,  "  Where  two  or  three  are 
gathered  together  in  jMy  name,  there  am  I  in  the  midst  of  them." 
Having  examined  a  certificate  in  the  Class-booii,  given  by  the 
Eev.  B.  Foster,  of  Jamaica,  who  had  last  renewed  their  Society 
tickets,  and  entered  ours  to  show  to  the  Minister  of  the  next 
port  at  wliich  they  might  call,  we  commended  the  members  of 
this  little  floating  church  to  God,  and  ascended  once  more  to 
the  light  of  day.  We  were  politely  favoured  with  a  passage  on 
shore  by  Lieutenant  Lindoff,  who  bore  the  most  honourable 
testimony  to  the  moral  and  religious  character  of  the  men  whom 
we  had  visited ;  and  who  also  entertained  us  with  various 
interesting  details  of  his  adventures  in  the  South  Seas,  when  on 
a  voyage  to  Erromanga  to  recover  the  remains  of  the  martyred 
Missionary  John  Williams ;  and  when  engaged  in  a  fearful  con- 
iilict  with  the  heathens  of  Tonga,  in  defence  of  the  Christian 
natives,  in  which  his  Captain  lost  his  life.  We  spent  the  even- 
ing with  a  few  friends  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Dean,  where  we  had 
some  interesting  conversation,  music,  singing,  and  prayer. 

On  AVednesday,  the  24th,  having  met  with  a  passage  to  the 
United  States,  by  the  "Lady  of  the  Lake,"  I  took  leave  of  my 
friends  in  Bermuda,  and  embarked  for  America.  The  Bermudas 
Ttre  a  number  of  small  islands,  separated  from  each  other  by 
narrow  channels.  The  soil  is  not  rich ;  but  the  surface  of  the 
ground  being  gently  undulating,  the  country  has  a  beautiful 
appearance  ;  and  the  climate  is  said  to  be  remarkably  mild  and 
salubrious.  The  population  is  estimated  at  nine  thousand ;  one- 
half  of  whom  are  whites,  and  the  other  blacks  and  coloured 
persons.  Hamilton  and  St.  George's  are  considerable  towns, 
and  contain  many  excellent  buildings.  At  each  place  we  have 
a  good  chapel,  besides  several  small  places  of  worship  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  country ;  and  the  number  of  church  members 


400  PART    II. THE    WEST    INDIES. 

was  about  five  Imndrefl.     I  was  highly  gratified  by  my  brief 
sojourn  in  this  interesting  colony. 

Having  been  at  sea  a  week,  on  Wednesday  morning,  the  1st 
of  May,  we  made  the  continent  of  America.  We  soon  afterwards 
took  a  pilot  on  board,  entered  the  mouth  of  the  Delaware,  and 
proceeded  up  the  river  with  a  fair  wind,  being  much  delighted 
with  the  appearance  of  the  country  on  either  hand.  During 
the  day  we  passed  Newcastle  and  Wilmingto'i,  and  found  our- 
selves in  company  with  sailing  vessels  and  steamers  of  various 
kinds.  About  ten  o'clock,  p.m.,  we  came  to  anchor  off  Phila- 
delphia, having  sailed  upwards  of  one  hundred  miles  during  the 
last  fourteen  hours. 

Early  the  next  morning,  I  went  on  shore  to  take  a  view  of 
the  city,  with  which  I  was  much  pleased.  It  is  said  to  be  seven 
miles  long,  and  three  broad ;  the  streets  are  laid  out  at  right 
angles  with  great  regularity ;  many  of  the  buildings  are  large 
and  substantial ;  and  every  thing  exhibits  a  degree  of  neatness 
and  order  much  to  be  admired.  Having  introduced  myself  to 
the  Eev.  Mr.  Gadauy,  a  Methodist  Minister,  he  kindly  showed 
me  his  church,  called  "  Ebenezer,"  a  neat  and  respectable  edifice, 
although  not  equal  to  "  Union  Church,"  the  next  which  I  went 
to  see.  In  the  afternoon  I  rode  out  to  Fair  Mount  Waterworks, 
the  most  wonderful  establishment  of  the  kind  I  have  ever  seen. 
In  the  evening  I  attended  a  Class  Meeting,  and  was  afterwards 
introduced  to  the  Eev.  Mr.  Janes,  wdth  whom  I  had  a  long  and 
interesting  conversation. 

At  four  o'clock  on  Friday  morning,  I  took  coach  for  Wilkes- 
barre,  a  distance  of  one  hundred  and  sixteen  miles.  During 
the  day  we  passed  through  a  country  well  cultivated  and  settled. 
The  beautiful  green  fields  were  divided,  not  with  stone  walls,  or 
quick-set  hedges,  as  in  England,  but  with  strange  zigzag  fences 
made  of  wood.  It  was  pleasing  to  reflect,  however,  that  the 
farms  which  we  saw  invariably  belonged  to  the  parties  who 
lived  upon  them,  and  not  to  oppressive  landlords,  as  in  some 
other  countries.  I  was  given  to  understand  that  this  part  of 
Pennsylvania  is  settled  chiefly  by  Germans.  The  towns  of 
Bethlehem  and  Nazareth  are  inhabited  exclusively  by  Moravians, 
who  have  in  connexion  with  them  extensive  educational  estab- 


CHAP.    vm. — SUPPLEMENTARY   INCIDENTS.  401 

lishments.  I  rested  for  the  night  at  Nazareth,  and  proceeded 
early  the  next  morning.  This  day  we  travelled  through  a  more 
dreary,  hilly,  and  rugged  country,  the  scenery  of  which  was 
frequently  grand.  Towards  evening  we  began  to  descend  into 
Wyoming  Yalley,  in  the  centre  of  which  stands  the  town  of 
"Wilkesbarre.  Being  desirous  of  obtaining  a  view  of  the  coun- 
try, I  took  my  seat  by  the  coachman,  and  soon  found  he  was 
acquainted  with  my  friends.  As  we  approached  nearer  to  the 
town,  he  pointed  out  my  father's  house  and  little  farm,  as  well  as 
the  residence  of  my  brother.  In  a  few  minutes  afterwards,  I  saw 
my  father  coming  through  the  garden  gate ;  and,  although  I  had 
not  seen  him  for  fourteen  years,  I  recognised  him  instantly,  not- 
withstanding his  being  at  some  distance.  The  coach  stopped 
at  the  gate.  My  father  turned  round,  and,  although  he  had  no 
knowledge  of  my  visit,  he  recognised  me  in  a  moment.  I  will 
not  attempt  to  describe  our  meeting  under  such  circumstances. 
Suffice  it  to  say  that  the  good  old  man  rejoiced  exceedingly  at 
the  opportunity  of  being  once  more  permitted  to  embrace  a  son 
whom  he  scarcely  expected  ever  to  see  again  in  the  flesh,  after 
I  had  embarked  for  Africa,  and  he,  with  his  family,  to  America, 
so  many  years  before ;  and  I  was  equally  happy  in  the  enjoy- 
ment of  a  privilege  which,  till  this  moment,  I  had  hardly  ven- 
tured to  anticipate.  The  house  was  soon  filled  with  brothers, 
sisters,  friends,  and  relatives,  who  rejoiced  over  me  as  one  risen 
from  the  dead. 

On  the  following  Sunday,  the  5th,  I  accompanied  my  dear 
father  to  his  appointments  at  Kingston  and  Plymouth;  and 
had  the  pleasure  of  heaving  him  preach  in  the  morning  with 
all  the  energy  and  vigour  of  former  days.  In  the  afternoon 
and  evening  I  preached  to  large  and  attentive  congregations. 
This  was  indeed  a  day  long  to  be  remembered. 

I  spent  three  happy  weeks  beneath  my  father's  roof.  The 
time  passed  sweetly  and  swiftly  away,  in  viewing  the  countryj 
in  paying  and  receiving  visits,  and  in  Christian  intercourse  with 
friends  and  relatives,  many  of  whom  have  settled  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood. I  was  delighted  to  see  most  of  them  surrounded 
Avith  all  the  comforts  of  life,  and  much  improved  in  their  cir- 
cumstances since  they  came  to  America.     On  the  Sabbath  I 


402  PAUT   II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

preached  in  the  large  Methodist  Church  in  Wilkesbarre  and  at 
the  Plains  ;  and  some  who  heard  me  were  persons  whom  I  had 
tnown  in  England  fifteen  years  before. 

During  ray  stay  at  Wilkesbarre,  I  spent  a  pleasant  afternoon 
in  the  company  of  Sarah  H.  Miner,  an  intelligent  and  interesting 
blind  lady,  who,  on  being  made  acquainted  with  the  circum- 
stances connected  with  my  embarkation  for  Africa,  about  the 
same  time  that  my  father  emigrated  to  America,  composed  and 
presented  to  me  ^the  following  lines,  pricked  off  on  thick  paper, 
after  the  manner  of  writing  by  the  blind : — 

THE    FATHER   AND   SON. 
Long  years  have  flown  by,  with  their  sunshine  and  storms, 
Since  on  England's  green  shore  stood  two  manly  forms ; 
They  parted  with  glances  of  kindly  regret, 
Each  wishing  the  Gospel's  loved  standard  to  set 
In  lands  far  remote  from  the  isle  of  their  birth. 
They  parted  to  seek  foreign  quarters  of  earth. 
One  sped  o'er  the  wave  with  the  ardom'  of  youth. 
Bearing  toil,  braving  danger,  bold  for  the  truth ; 
Beneath  tropical  suns,  on  Africa's  coast. 
He  warred  with  idolatry's  embattled  host. 
But  the  world  was  his  field,  and  the  labourers  few ; 
To  duties  assigned  him,  still  dauntless  he  flew  ; 
Yet  though  he  thus  bore  so  laborious  a  part, 
It  quenched  not  afi'ection's  warm  glow  in  his  heart. 
The  years  and  the  waves  which  have  since  roU'd  between, 
Fail'd  aught  of  aff"ection  from  either  to  w'ean. 
Behold  here  the  goal  of  their  fond  wishes  won. 
On  this  western  shore  met  that  Father  and  Son. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  the  23rd  I  took  an  affectionate 
leave  of  my  venerable  father  and  the  rest  of  the  family  ;  pro- 
bably to  meet  them  no  more  in  this  world.*     May  we  have  a 

*  This  did  indeed  prove  to  be  my  last  earthly  meeting  with  my  venerable 
father,  and  several  other  members  of  the  family.  A  few  years  afterwards  I 
heard,  at  short  intervals,  of  the  death  of  a  brother  and  three  sisters,  and 
ultimately  of  the  departure  to  a  better  country  of  ray  honoured  father  himself. 
He  finished  his  course,  triumphantly  happy  in  God,  at  Wilkesbarre,  on  the  9th 
of  August,  1859,  in  the  76th  year  of  his  age.  The  day  before  I  took  my 
leave  of  him,  he  wrote  a  few  lines  in  my  scrap-book  of  autographs,  from 
which  I  extract  the  following  precious  sentences : — "  Your  visit  to  us  has 


CHAP.   VIII. —  SUPPLEMENTAET   INCIDENTS.  403 

iiappy  meeting  in  heaven !  I  rested  for  the  niglit  at  Easton, 
and  proceeded  the  next  day,  partly  by  coach  and  partly  by- 
railway,  to  New  York,  by  way  of  Jersey  City.  As  this  wonder- 
ful invention  of  modern  times  had  been  adopted  since  I  em- 
barked for  foreign  lands,  this  was  the  first  raihvay  I  had  seen ; 
and  it  certainly  appeared  to  be  a  great  improvement  on  the  old 
mode  of  travelling. 

On  my  arrival  in  the  beautiful  city  of  New  York,  I  left  my 
luggage  at  the  Pacific  Temperance  Hotel,  and  walked  over  to  the 
place  where  the  General  Conference  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal 
Church  was  holding  its  sittings ;  but  the  meeting  had  broken 
up  for  the  day.  I  then  called  at  the  Methodist  Book  Concern, 
in  Mulberry  Street,  and  introduced  myself  to  the  Eev.  G.  Lane, 
the  Book  Steward,  who  was  glad  to  see  me,  being  well  ac- 
quainted with  my  father.  Mr.  Lane  kindly  invited  me  to  make 
his  house  my  home  during  my  stay  in  New  York.  I  gratefully 
accepted  his  friendly  invitation  ;  and  I  shall  ever  feel  obliged  to 
him  and  his  amiable  wife  for  their  marked  attention  and  kind- 
ness during  my  brief  sojourn  beneath  their  hospitable  roof. 

The  next  morning  I  attended  the  Conference ;  and  having 
been  introduced  to  the  Bishops,  I  was  cordially  invited  to  take  a 
seat  among  the  Ministers,  and  received  with  a  kindness  that 
made  me  feel  quite  at  home.  The  subject  under  discussion  was 
one  of  the  deepest  interest ;  namely,  the  connexion  of  slavery 
with  the  episcopacy.  Bishop  Andrew  had  become  the  owner  of 
two  or  three  slaves,  by  marriage,  which  was  considered  an  in- 
fringement of  the  discipline  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  ; 
and  an  animated  debate  was  continued  from  day  to  day  on  this 
question  during  the  week  that  I  attended  the  sittings  of  the 

been  truly  refreshing,  and  forms  one  of  the  most  pleasing  incidents  in  a 
life  whicli  has  been  somewhat  chequered,  and  will  be  remembered  by  us  with 
gratitude  as  long  as  we  live.  I  feel  deeply  when  I  think  of  that  word 
*  Farewell.'  I  gave  you  up  freely  for  Africa,  I  will  try  to  give  you  up 
freely  for  the  West  Indies.  Your  dear  wife  is  there.  And  your  dear 
people  are  there.  Go,  my  son,  and  may  God  bring  you  in  safety  to  your  home. 
Tell  your  friends  that  the  old  man  of  whom  they  have  heard  you  speak 
is  still  alive,  and  on  his  way  to  heaven.  I  hope  to  meet  you  in  that  country 
where  the  word  '  Farewell '  will  be  heard  no  mare  for  ever. 

"  Wilkesharre,  May  22nd,  1844.  Roger  Moister." 

2   D   2 


404  PART   II. — THE   WEST   INDIES. 

Conference.  There  was  some  good  speaking  on  both  sides,  in 
which  Bishop  Soul,  Bishop  Andrew,  Dr.  Capers,  Dr.  Winans, 
Dr.  Bangs,  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Smith,  Collins,  Pierce,  and  Cass, 
appeared  prominently  ;  but,  of  course,  my  feelings  and  judgment 
went  with  the  Nortli ;  and  I  could  not  but  feel  surprised  and 
grieved  to  hear  the  Ministers  on  the  side  of  the  South  pleading 
directly  in  favour  of  slavery.  On  the  Sabbath  I  was  kindly 
accompanied  by  the  Eev.  Mr.  Eowe  to  hear  three  celebrated 
preachers, — Dr  Winans,  Mr.  Cross,  and  Mr.  Collins,  who  dis- 
played an  earnestness  and  zeal  in  their  discourses  quite  cha- 
racteristic of  American  Ministers. 

When  I  had  attended  the  sittings  of  the  Conference  about  a 
week,  I  met  with  a  vessel  bound  for  St.  Vincent's,  the  Captain 
of  which  I  knew ;  and  as  my  health  was  very  much  improved,  I 
resolved  to  embrace  the  opportunity  of  returning  to  the  West 
Indies,  without  extending  my  travels  to  Canada,  as  I  first 
intended. 

On  Saturday,  the  1st  of  June,  I  took  leave  of  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Lane,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Paine,  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Wright,  Akers, 
and  Swormstedt,  and  several  other  friends,  and  embarked  for 
the  West  Indies.  After  a  pleasant  passage  of  three  weeks,  we 
made  Barbadoes  ;  and  as  we  ran  down  the  windward  coast,  I 
had  a  view  of  Providence,  our  old  station,  and  other  places 
which  I  recognised.  In  the  evening  we  entered  Carlisle  Bay, 
and  I  went  on  shore  at  Bridge  Town.  After  a  brief  interview 
with  the  Eev.  E.  Branston  and  family,  Mrs.  Gill,  and  Mrs-. 
Hovell,  I  returned  on  board,  and  we  bore  away  for  St. 
Vincent's. 

On  the  following  morning  we  made  the  island,  and  I  had  a 
clear  view  of  Biabou  and  the  neighbouring  estates.  About 
noon  we  came  to  anchor  in  Kingstown  Bay ;  and,  as  soon  as  I 
could  obtain  a  horse,  I  rode  to  Biabou,  where  I  was  happy  to 
find  my  dear  wife  in  good  health,  and  that  all  had  gone  on  well 
during  my  absence. 

This  visit  to  America  was  attended  with  circumstances  ot 
peculiar  interest,  as  it  afforded  me  an  opportunity  of  meeting 
once  more  with  dear  friends  and  relatives,  and  resulted  in  the 
re-establishment  of  my  health ;  so  that  on  my  return  to  the 


CHAP.    Vlir. — SUPPLEMENTARY   INCIDENTS.  405 

West  Indies  I  was  enabled  to  pursue  my  labours  for  a  while 
longer  with  pleasure  and  comfort.  On  the  whole  m}^  impres- 
sions of  America  and  American  Methodism  were  decidedly 
favourable.  I  could  not  but  look  with  feelings  of  veneration 
upon  the  noble  band  of  Ministers  sent  as  delegates  from 
different  parts  of  the  Union  to  the  General  Conference.  The 
evident  genuineness  of  their  piety,  the  simplicity  of  their  dress 
and  manners,  and  the  lofty  intellect  displayed  by  several, 
attracted  my  particular  observation.  The  dignified  manner  in 
which  they  conducted  their  business  also  struck  me  very  forcibly. 
Although  the  subjects  of  discussion  were  of  the  most  exciting 
character,  the  rules  of  debate  generally  recognised  by  deliberate 
assemblies,  and  adopted  by  the  General  Conference,  were 
strictly  observed.  There  was  no  stamping,  clapping,  or  cheer- 
ing ;  nor  did  the  speakers  indulge  in  personalities  or  sarcasm, 
but  always  spoke  of  their  opponents  as  their  "  respected 
brethren."  And  when  a  resolution  was  passed,  however  large 
the  minority,  they  meekly  submitted  to  the  majority  without 
a  murmur.  The  five  Bishops  presided  in  rotation,  and  no 
eulogium  can  be  too  strong  on  the  manner  in  which  they  dis- 
charged their  duties.  They  seldom  took  a  part  in  the  debates ; 
but  when  they  did  speak  it  was  with  a  weight  and  solemnity 
that  seemed  to  be  felt  by  all.  I  shall  never  forget  the  address 
of  Bishop  Soul  on  Bishop  Andrew's  case.  Such  were  the 
esteem  in  which  I  held  this  good  man,  and  my  utter  detestation 
of  slavery  in  every  form,  that  I  could  not  but  deeply  regret  his 
sympathy  with  the  South.  Prom  the  whole  of  the  proceedings 
during  this  memorable  controversy  a  calm  and  disinterested 
observer  of  this  assembly  might  have  imagined  himself  carried 
back  to  the  days  of  the  Apostles,  when  they  assembled  to 
deliberate  on  the  affairs  of  the  Church  in  the  upper  room  at 
Jerusalem.  The  hospitality  and  kindness,  also,  which  they 
generously  extended  to  a  Minister  of  another  great  section  of 
Methodism,  and  of  another  nation,  made  an  impression  upon  my 
heart  never  to  be  forgotten.  The  Rev.  Mr.  Scott  kindly  in- 
vited me  to  go  to  Philadelphia,  to  preach  in  the  place  of  Bishop 
Andrew,  while  his  case  was  pending;  but  circumstances 
obliged  me  respectfully  to  decline. 


406  PAET   II. — THE   WEST    INDIES. 

The  differences  on  the  subject  of  slavery,  alluded  to  ahove^ 
ultimately  resulted  in  the  secession  of  the  Southern  Conferences 
from  the  main  body  ;  but  as  the  limits  of  these  memorials  will 
not  allow  of  my  entering  more  fully  into  this  and  other  subjects 
connected  with  my  visit  to  the  United  States,  I  have  pleasure 
in  referring  the  reader  to  Dr.  Dixon's  able  work  on  Metliodism 
in  America,  towards  the  close  of  which  he  will  find  copious 
extracts  from  the  speeches  to  which  I  listened  with  the  deepest 
interest.  It  is  matter  of  deep  regret  that  now,  after  the  fearful 
struggle  between  North  and  South  is  over,  there  appears  no 
desire  on  the  part  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  South  to 
become  reconciled  to  the  parent  ecclesiastical  establishment. 


SECOND  SHIPWRECK. 

In  the  prosecution  of  his  arduous  duties,  the  Christian  Mis- 
sionary is  not  only  required  to  labour  to  the  very  utmost,  and 
sometimes  above  his  strength,  to  meet  the  numerous  claims  for 
his  services,  and  to  endure  hardness  as  a  good  soldier  of  the 
Lord  Jesus  Christ ;  but  he  is  sometimes  called  to  witness  very 
remarkable  interpositions  of  the  providence  and  grace  of  God. 
Some  instances  have  already  been  given,  in  the  course  of  this 
narrative,  of  deliverance  from  danger,  while  travelling  by  sea 
and  by  land  ;  and  others  yet  remain  to  be  related.  Truly  I  may 
say  with  the  Apostle  that  I  have  been  "  in  deaths  often,"  and  I 
can  praise  the  Lord,  "  who  delivered  us  from  so  great  a  death, 
and  doth  deliver :  in  whom  we  trust  that  He  will  yet  deliver 
us."  (1  Cor.  i.  10.) 

It  was  during  the  period  of  my  second  appointment  to  the 
island  of  Trinidad  that  I  experienced  a  very  remarkable  provi- 
dential deliverance  from  a  watery  grave,  and  from  death  by  a 
stroke  of  lightning, — the  fate  to  which  one  of  my  companions 
was  actually  doomed.  This  almost  miraculous  interposition 
was  attended  by  so  many  remarkable  circumstances,  all  illustra- 
tive of  the  special  providence  of  God,  that  I  think  I  need  make 
no  apology  for  placing  upon  record  a  brief  account  of  it  in 
these  memorials. 

On  the  5th  of  August,  1846, 1  had  occasion,  in  the  discharge 


CHAP.    VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY   IlfCIDENTS.  407 

of  ray  ministerial  duties,  to  visit  Couva,  a  station  about  fifteen 
miles  from  Port  of  Spain.  I  left  town  soon  after  six  o'clock  in 
the  morning,  in  an  open  boat,  accompanied  by  the  two  boat- 
men, John  Ovid  and  William  Woodford.  The  morning  was 
fine ;  and  as  we  glided  down  the  smooth  and  placid  waters  of 
the  Gulf  of  Paria,  the  surrounding  scenery  seemed  well  cal- 
culated to  draw  out  the  mind  in  holy  contemplation  and  joy. 
After  singing  a  few  verses  of  the  hymn  beginning,  "  There  is  a 
land  of  pure  delight,"  I  endeavoured  to  engage  the  boatmen  in 
such  moral  and  religious  conversation  as  I  thought  likely  to 
promote  their  spiritual  and  eternal  welfare.  Having  arrived  at 
our  destination,  visited  the  school,  and  performed  the  other 
duties  of  the  day,  which  included  the  marriage  of  one  of  our 
teachers,  we  prepared  to  return  in  the  afternoon. 

We  started  from  New  Bay  at  half-past  two  o'clock.  The 
weather  had  become  showery ;  but  it  was  not  by  any  means 
more  threatening  than  usual  at  this  season  of  the  year.  A 
light  breeze  soon  took  us  up  as  high  as  Carapiachaima,  a  dis- 
tance of  about  four  miles,  when  we  observed  a  thunderstorm 
gathering  to  the  eastward,  in  dense  black  masses  of  clouds. 
The  rain  soon  descended  in  torrents,  and  vivid  lightning  flashed 
around  us,  and  the  peals  of  thunder  were  fearfully  long  and 
loud.  The  breeze  freshened,  and  we  scudded  along  without 
the  slightest  apprehension  of  danger,  beyond  what  might  arise 
from  a  thorough  wetting  at  this  sickly  season  of  the  year.  I 
had  been  again  endeavouring  to  draw  out  the  men  in  religious 
conversation ;  and  it  is  somewhat  remarkable  that  we  had  been 
speaking  of  instances  of  sudden  death  by  lightning,  and  of  the 
necessity  of  being  always  prepared  to  meet  our  God,  when,  in 
a  moment,  in  the  twinkling  of  an  eye,  the  lightning  flash  struck 
the  bamboo  yard  which  supported  the  lug-sail,  and  completely 
shattered  it  in  pieces.  The  electric  fluid  descended  the  mast, 
and  struck  William  Woodford  dead  in  an  instant !  At  the  time 
of  this  awful  occurrence  he  was  reclining  his  head  against  the 
mast,  with  the  halliard  rope  in  his  hand,  ready  to  let  go  in  case 
of  a  squall.  The  lightning  completely  scathed  him,  setting  his 
clothes  on  fire,  and  passed  through  the  bottom  of  the  boat.  In 
the  same  moment  John  Ovid,  who  was  at  the  helm,  was  struck 


408  PART   II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

prostrate  and  helpless  at  my  feet.  I  felt  the  shock  myself :  it 
produced  an  awful  sensation,  but  did  not  for  a  moment  deprive 
me  of  my  reason.  The  concussion  sent  the  boat  nearly  over; 
but  it  soon  righted  again,  half  full  of  water.  At  this  perilous 
moment  I  commenced  baling  the  water  out  of  the  boat  with 
one  hand,  whilst  I  endeavoured  to  arouse  John  with  the  other. 
After  a  few  wild  expressions  of  surprise  he  recovered  from  the 
shock,  and  began  to  throw  the  ballast  out  of  the  boat,  whilst  I 
continued  to  bale.  As  to  William,  he  remained  prostrate  on  his 
face,  with  his  arms  extended,  just  as  he  fell;  and  never  so 
much  as  spoke,  groaned,  or  moved.  The  fire  on  his  clothes  was 
soon  quenched  with  the  w^ater.  After  a  while  we  felt  convinced 
that  all  our  efforts  to  keep  the  boat  afloat  must  be  ineffectual, 
as  she  was  filling  fast,  through  the  holes  in  the  bottom.  I  now 
sav/  the  necessity  of  making  a  strenuous  effort  for  life,  by  swim- 
ming or  otherwise,  and  commenced  pulling  oft'  my  coat  and  boots 
simultaneously  ;  but  when  I  had  got  one  boot  off,  and  my  coat 
just  thrown  over  my  shoulders,  the  boat  went  down,  and  we 
were  immersed  in  the  waves.  Providentially  the  weight  of  the 
dead  man's  body,  which  hung  partly  over  the  gunwale,  caused 
the  boat  to  capsize  in  its  descent ;  and,  being  emptied  of  its 
contents,  it  came  to  the  surface  again,  with  the  bottom  upwards. 
We  then  made  an  effort  to  regain  the  wreck,  in  which  I  was 
much  impeded  by  my  coat,  half  off  and  half  on,  which  acted 
as  a  pinion  to  my  elbows.  How  I  cleared  myself  from  this 
difficulty  I  cannot  tell ;  I  think  I  tore  my  coat  asunder,  and  got 
it  off  in  pieces.  I  only  remember  being  fairly  free  from  this 
entanglement  when  I  mounted  the  wreck,  and  I  never  saw  a 
vestige  of  my  coat  again. 

Although  both  John  and  I  had  hitherto  succeeded  in  keeping 
our  heads  above  water,  we  had  great  difficulty  in  clinging  to  the 
boat,  from  its  rolling  motion,  caused  partly  by  the  swell  of  the 
sea,  and  partly  from  the  mast  still  remaining  in  its  place.  It 
revolved  in  the  water  like  a  barrel  for  some  time,  and  it  required 
our  utmost  efforts  to  keep  mounting  to  the  highest  part.  At 
one  time  I  found  myself  being  carried  under  the  boat  in  its 
revolution,  having  missed  my  aim  at  the  keel ;  and  when 
immersed  in  the  water  after  so  much  exhaustion,  that  was  the 


CHAP.   VIII. —  SUPPLEMENTARY    INCIDENTS.  409 

moment,  the  solemn  moment,  which  must  remain  indelibly  ira- 
pres  sed  upon  my  mind  as  long  as  I  live, — the  moment  in  which 
I  mentally  left  this  world,  and  resigned  my  spirit  into  the  hands 
of  my  Kedeemer.  In  my  descent  the  end  of  a  rope  came  in  my 
way,  by  means  of  which  I  raised  myself  once  more  to  the  top  of 
the  wreck.  A  faint  hope  of  life  again  returned ;  and  soon  after- 
wards the  boat  became  more  steady,  and  John  and  I  sat  upon 
the  keel  with  much  less  difficulty,  only  up  to  the  arms  in  water, 
and  getting  a  turn  over  now  and  then. 

As  the  storm  abated  and  the  mist  began  to  clear  awaj^  we 
saw  a  white  speck  on  the  distant  horizon.  It  was  a  sloop,  which 
God  in  His  providence  had  prepared  for  our  deliverance.  As  it 
came  nearer,  we  made  every  effort  to  be  seen  or  heard  by  the 
people  on  board.  We  united  our  voices  to  their  utmost  pitch, 
and  also  elevated  a  piece  of  board  as  a  signal  of  distress;  but, 
for  a  long  time,  all  seemed  ineffectual,  and  our  faith  was  put  to 
the  severest  test,  as  we  had  reason  to  fear  that  we  might  be  passed 
by  the  sloop  unobserved.  When  nearly  all  hope  was  gone,  we 
beheld  with  unspeakable  delight  a  boat  moving  off  from  the 
-sloop  towards  us.  We  now  encouraged  each  other  to  hold  on  a 
little  longer,  and  we  were  soon  taken  from  the  wreck,  just  as 
cramp  had  seized  my  feet  and  legs,  having  been  exposed  to  the 
most  imminent  danger  for  nearly  two  hours.  On  reaching  the 
sloop,  we  found  it  to  be  the  "  Atalanta,"  bound  for  Port  of 
Spain  ;  and  we  were  treated  with  the  greatest  kindness  by- Captain 
Dwyer  and  his  men.  As  soon  as  I  had  taken  off'  my  wet  clothes, 
I  wrapped  myself  in  a  blanket  with  which  I  was  kindly  fur- 
nished ;  and,  having  taken  a  cup  of  coffee,  I  lay  down  in  one  of 
the  sailor's  berths,  not  to  sleep,  but  to  pray  and  meditate  during 
the  whole  night,  and  to  plight  my  vows  afresh  faithfully  to  serve 
that  God  who  had  so  mercifully  interposed  on  my  behalf  in  the 
hour  of  danger. 

We  landed  at  Port  of  Spain  the  following  day,  about  ten 
A.M.,  tolerably  well,  except  a  few  bruises,  and  the  fatigue  con- 
sequent on  our  exposure  and  exertion.  I  will  not  attempt  to 
describe  my  feelings  on  being  once  more  restored  to  my  family 
and  friends.  Mrs.  Moister  had  spent  an  anxious  night  of  watch- 
ing, every  moment  expecting  my  return ;    and  when  a  sailor 


410  PAET    TI. THE    WEST    INDIES. 

arrived  at  the  Mission-House,  bringing  the  intelligence  of  what 
had  occurred,  and  requesting  her  to  send  me  a  suit  of  clothes  on 
board  before  I  could  land,  the  shock  was  almost  too  much  for 
her ;  but  the  grace  of  God  supported  her  on  that  as  on  other 
trying  occasions.  The  house  was  soon  surrounded  by  our  dear 
people,  who  came  to  offer  their  hearty  congratulations ;  and  I 
was  regarded  almost  as  one  raised  from  the  dead. 

On  the  following  Sabbath  I  endeavoured  to  improve  this 
remarkable  providence,  by  preaching  to  a  crowded  assembly  of 
seamen  and  others  from  Psalm  ci.  1 :  "  I  will  sing  of  mercy  and 
of  judgment,  unto  Thee,  0  Lord,  will  I  sing."*  A  solemn 
influence  rested  upon  the  congregation,  and  I  sincerely  trust  that 
some  lasting  good  resulted  from  an  event  which  I  hope  never  to- 

forget. 

"  Oft  liath  the  sea  confess'd  Thy  power, 
And  given  me  back  at  Thy  comraand. 
It  could  not,  Lord,  my  life  devour, 
Safe  in  the  hollow  of  Thy  hand." 

RETURN   TO   ENGLAND. 

In  the  year  1846,  I  had  two  very  severe  attacks  of  illness  ', 
one  of  which  was  supposed  to  have  been  induced  by  the  ex- 
posure and  struggle  for  life,  on  the  occasion  of  the  shipwreck, 
from  which  I  was  so  mercifully  delivered,  and  to  which  refer- 
ence has  been  already  made.  By  the  blessing  of  God  upon  the 
means  employed,  I  was  so  far  restored  as  to  be  able  to  attend 
to  my  ministerial  duties ;  but  I  never  regained  my  wonted  vigour. 
The  health  of  my  dear  wife  also  was  much  impaired ;  and  a 
change  of  climate  was  considered  absolutely  necessary  for  us 
both.  We  therefore  prepared,  somewhat  reluctantly,  to  leave 
the  West  Indies ;  and  embarked  for  England  on  Friday,  the 
16th  of  July,  1847,  on  board  the  ship  "Bangalore,"  com- 
manded by  Captain  Tweedy.  I  will  not  attempt  to  describe 
the  parting  scene.  It  surpassed  every  thing  of  the  kind  I  had 
before  witnessed.     The  school  children,  members   of  Society, 

*  This  discourse  was  afterwards  published;  and  John  M'Swiney,  Esq.^ 
generally  presented  the  entire  edition  to  the  Society,  the  sale  of  which  realized 
£20,  in  aid  of  our  Mission  Schools.  The  substance  of  it  is  also  embodied  in 
a  Eeward-Boolv,  published  at  the  Wesley  an  Conference  Office,  entitled, 
"  Death  Averted." 


CHAP.    VIII. — SUPPLEMENTARY    INCIDENTS.  411 

and  liimdrecls  of  others,  followed  us  to  the  bear^h  ;  and  we  had 
a  repetition  of  that  which  is  so  touchingly  described  in  the 
twentieth  chapter  of  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles.  We  had 
literally  to  tear  ourselves  away  from  a  people  who  had  become 
endeared  to  our  hearts  by  the  kindness  and  affection  which  they 
had  manifested  towards  us  during  the  five  years  that  we  had 
laboured  among  them.* 

The  ship  in  which  we  sailed  had  come  from  India  with  Coolie 
emigrants,  and  was  a  commodious  vessel,  but  rather  leaky,  and 
required  pumping  every  two  hours.  Through  a  kind  and 
gracious  Providence,  however,  we  had  a  safe  and  pleasant 
passage.  When  we  had  been  at  sea  just  six  weeks,  on  Friday, 
the  27th  of  August,  w^e  once  more  heard  the  cheering  sound  of 
"  Land  a-head  !  "  On  looking  out,  we  could  faintly  distinguish 
the  chalky  cliffs  of  the  Isle  of  Wight.  In  the  afternoon,  a 
pilot  boat  came  alongside,  and,  having  arranged  to  go  on  shore, 
in  a  few  hours  we  landed  at  Brighton,  the  splendid  buildings  of 
which,  as  seen  from  a  distance,  burst  upon  us  like  a  dissolving 
view  in  the  phantasmagoria.  It  seemed  like  a  dream.  Bat  on 
setting  our  feet  once  more  upon  the  shores  of  our  dear  native 
land,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  fourteen  years,  and  feeling  that 
it  was  indeed  a  reality,  a  gush  of  gratitude  to  God,  for  His 
preserving  goodness,  filled  and  overflowed  our  hearts,  and  we 
felt  constrained  to  consecrate  ourselves  afresh  to  His  service. 
We  proceeded  to  London  by  the  evening  train;  and  whilst 
the  novelty  of  railway  travelling  was  amusing  some  of  our 
fellow-travellers,  who  had  never  seen  the  like  before,  my  mind 
was  absorbed  by  a  series  of  reflections,  suggested  by  the  good- 
ness and  mercy  of  God  to  me  and  mine. 

"  May  we  in  Hfe,  in  death. 

His  steadfast  truth  declare  ; 

And  publish,  with  our  latest  breath. 

His  love  and  guardian  care." 

*  Circumstances  jirevent  my  recording  here  the  kind  address  of  the 
people,  and  an  account  of  the  elegant  testimonial — a  complete  dinner- 
service  of  superior  silver-plated  ware,  with  an  appropriate  inscription — 
which  they  presented  to  us  on  our  departure  from  the  island;  but  our 
Trinidad  friends  may  rest  assured  that  they  are  still  remembered  by  us  with 
feelings  of  sincere  and  undying  affection. 


412  PART    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 


THE  WEST  INDU   QUESTION. 

The  limits  and  design  of  these  missionary  memorials  do  not 
admit  of  a  minute  discussion  of  the  "  West  India  Question,"  in 
its  agricultural,  mercantile,  religious,  and  social  aspects ;  but, 
before  I  pass  on  to  the  next  department  of  the  work,  I  may 
make  a  few  brief  observations,  which  will  indicate  the  views 
which  I  entertain  on  the  subject.  Since  my  return  to  England 
I  have  been  much  surprised  at  the  comparative  ignorance  of 
religious  people  on  West  India  matters.  I  have  sometimes 
been  seriously  asked  whetlier  the  glorious  emancipation  of  the 
slaves  has  not  proved  a  failure  ?  I  have  always  answered,  most 
emphatically,  "No;"  and  I  have  no  hesitation  in  now  declaring 
my  decided  conviction,  after  a  personal  acquaintance  with  the 
measure  in  all  its  stages,  that  it  has  proved  a  grand  success, 
despite  the  difficulties  with  which  it  has  been  beset.  Let  any 
one  make  a  tour  of  the  West  India  Islands  who  was  acquainted 
with  the  state  of  things  in  the  palmy  days  of  slavery,  and  mark 
the  pleasing  changes  which  have  taken  place  in  the  personal 
appearance  of  the  peasantry,  in  their  clothing,  houses,  furniture, 
places  of  worship,  schools,  &c.,  and  then  say  whether  emanci- 
pation has  not  been  made  a  blessing  to  the  people,  notwith- 
standing the  hard  times,  small  wages,  and  other  difficulties  with 
which  they  have  frequently  had  to  contend  since  they  were 
made  free. 

But  if  emancipation  has  substantially  verified  the  anticipa- 
tions of  the  friends  of  freedom,  how  are  we  to  account  for  the 
commercial  and  agricultural  depression — the  *'  absolute  ruin  " — 
which  has  overtaken  these  once-prosperous  colonies  ?  To  this 
question  I  answer,  that  this  outcry  about  "  absolute  ruin,"  &c., 
must  be  received  with  caution ;  and  when  properly  modified, 
and  corrected  by  facts  and  figures,  as  to  the  amount  of  exports 
and  imports  now,  as  compared  with  the  same  in  the  days  of 
slavery,  what  remains  of  "  depression  "  may  be  accounted  for 
without  calling  in  question  the  wisdom  and  righteousness  of 
emancipation.  Look  at  the  state  of  things  on  the  approach 
of  the  advent  of  freedom.     Most  of  the  estates  were  heavily 


CHAP.    VIII. — SUrPLEMENTAUY    INCIDENTS.  413 

mortgaged,  and  a  large  majority  of  tbe  planters  were  on  the 
verge  of  insolvency,  in  consequence  of  the  gross  mismanage- 
ment   of    their   properties,    and    of  the   baneful   influence    of 
slavery.     The  compensation-money   floated  some  of  the  pro- 
prietors over  their  difficulties,  whilst  others  became  still  more 
deeply  involved  in  after  years,  not  in  consequence  of  emancipa- 
tion, but  as  the  result  of  slavery.     Much  might  be  said  also  of 
the  hasty  and  unwise  legislation  of  the  Imperial  Parliament  in 
equalizing    the    sugar  duties,  and    admitting   to    the    British 
market  foreign  slave-grown  sugar  on  nearly  equal  terms  to  that 
produced  by  free  labour  in  our  own  colonies.     Then  came  the 
desolating  cholera  ;  and,  in  some  of  the  colonies,   earthquakes 
and  hurricanes,  followed  by  successive  years  of  drought ;  and 
the  American  war,  involving  expenses  and  losses  quite  sufficient 
to  account  for  the  difficulties  through  which  the  people  and 
their  employers  have  had  to  pass,  without  blaming  emancipation. 
But  the  interests  of  religion  have  declined  of  late  years  in 
the   West  Indies.     True:  and  who  can  be  surprised  at  this, 
that   has    carefully  considered   the   intimate  relation   between 
temporal  and  spiritual  things, — the  connexion  between   body 
and  soul,  time  and  eternity,  the  world  which  now  is,  and  that 
which  is  to  come  ?     "VYhen,  in  some  places,  the  agricultural  and 
commercial  interests  of  the  country  received  a  check,  and  began 
to  decline,  from  the  causes  already  indicated,  employers  were 
unable  to  pay  their  labourers  the  small  pittance  for  which  they 
had  engaged  to  work.     In  some  instances  estates  were  thrown 
out  of  cultivation  altogether,  and  the  people  became  scattered 
in  various  directions  in  search  of  employment,  and  of  food  to 
eat,  for  themselves  and  their  families.     Just  at  the  time  when 
the  people  were  most  destitute  of  the  means  of  support  through 
want  of  employment,   and  the  long  drought,  which  rendered 
their  provision-grounds  almost  useless,  many  of  the  necessaries 
of  life  arose  to  almost  fabulous  prices,  in  consequence  of  the 
American  war.     Then  came  actual  want  and  starvation  to  many 
a  poor  black  man's  cottage,  and  an  amount  of  suffering,  the 
fiill  extent  of  which  will  never  be  known  in  this  world ;  for  the 
sable  children  of  Ham  are  not  a  complaining  people.      The 
public  and  private  means  of  grace  were  consequently  neglected ; 


414  PAET    II. — THE    WEST   INDIES. 

many  who  were  weak  in  faith  declined  in  religious  experience, 
and  sank  under  the  accumulated  weight  of  their  sufferings,  or 
fell  into  temptation,  and  were  lost  to  the  church  and  to  the 
interests  of  religion,  just  as  professing  Christians  of  fairer 
complexion  have  done  in  other  lands,  in  times  of  severe  trial. 
Hence  the  reports  of  a  decrease  in  the  number  of  church  mem- 
bers, and  of  diminished  financial  resources. 

In  addition  to  these  legitimate  causes  of  the  real  or  alleged 
declension  of  religion  in  the  West  Indies,  we  must  not  shut  our 
eyes  to  the  fact  that  there  has,  of  late  years,  been  a  degree  of 
ecclesiastical  competition  unknown  in  former  times.     In  the 
dark  and  gloomy  days  of  Negro  slavery,  the  Missionaries  had 
the  rough  pioneer  work  of  civilizing  and  evangelizing  the  peo- 
ple pretty  much  to  themselves.     But  as  the  era  of  emancipation 
approached,  the  times  changed,  the  work  became  more  easy  and 
respectable  in  its  character,  and  then  came  an  influx  of  clerical 
gentlemen,  claiming  to  be  in  the  true  apostolical  succession,  and 
seeking  to  disparage  the   character  and  labours  of  the  noble 
band  of  Missionaries  who  had  borne  the  burden  and  heat  of  the 
day,  and  who,  in  many  instances,  had  done  the  real  apostolical 
work  of  saving  souls  before  these  haughty  intruders  made  their 
appearance.     Friendly  as  I  am  to  the  National  Church  of  this 
country,  and  to  every  truly  Christian  brotherhood,  I  am  not  one 
of  those  who  entertain  the  opinion  that  the  place  of  the  Mis- 
sionaries in  the  West  Indies  is  now  superseded  by  the  new- 
born vigour  of  the  Established  Church  of  England  in  those 
islands ;   or   that   the   Missionaries   merely  linger  and  labour 
in    the  arena   of    their  early  sufferings  and  happy  triumphs, 
without  being  still  absolutely  required  on  their  respective  sta- 
tions.    I  believe  that  the  new-born  vigour  of  the  Established 
Church,  in  many  parts  of  the  West  Indies,  is  as  nearly  related 
to  Popery  on  the  one  hand,  and  to  infidelity  on  the  other,  as  is 
the  same  new-born  vigour  in  many  parts  of  England;    and 
i;hat  its  very  existence  renders  the  labours  of  the  Wesleyan 
Missionaries  more  necessary  than  ever  to  preserve  their  forty- 
one  thousand  five  hundred  and  seventy-two  church  members  from 
the  pernicious  influences  to  which  they  are  thereby  exposed, 
as  well  as  to  make  fresh  aggressions  on  the  spiritual  darkness 


CHAP.    YIIT. — SUPPLEMENTARY    INCIDENTS.  415 

whicli  still  prevails  among  the  one  million   of  people   which 
inhabit  the  British  West  India  colonies. 

The  lamentable  outbreak  which  has  recently  occurred  in  the 
island  of  Jamaica  cannot  fail  to  be  a  subject  of  painful  interest 
to  every  friend  of  freedom ;  and  it  is  matter  of  sincere  regret 
ihat  any  one  should  be  found  so  ignorant,  or  so  wicked,  as  to 
make  this  the  occasion  of  an  attack  upon  the  whole  Xegro 
Tace,  or  to  attempt  to  draw  inferences  therefrom  disparaging  to 
the  philanthropic  efforts  which  have  been  put  forth  for  so  many 
years  to  raise  them  from  their  former  state  of  moral  degradation. 
Some  writers  and  speakers  on  the  subject  seem  to  have  lost 
sight  of  the  fact  that  a  very  small  number,  comparatively  speak- 
ing, were  implicated  in  the  horrid  atrocities  which  were  com- 
mitted by  the  infuriated  mob  after  they  had  been  fired  upon 
from  the  Court-House,  at  Morant  Bay,  or  were  in  any  way  con- 
•cerned  in  the  revolt.  Neither  has  due  credit  been  generally 
given  to  the  large  majority  of  the  Negro  population,  in  the  dis- 
trict where  the  disaffection  was  most  rife,  for  the  noble  spirit  of 
loyalty  which  they  displayed  towards  the  Government  of  Queen 
Victoria,  at  the  very  time  that  Her  Majestjf's  representative  and 
naval  and  military  officers  were  adopting  such  extreme  and 
doubtful  measures  to  avenge  themselves  on  their  unhappy  fellow- 
countrymen.  Having  spent  the  best  portion  of  my  life  among 
the  sable  sons  of  Ham,  and  had  ample  opportunities  of  making 
myself  acquainted  with  the  Negro  character,  both  at  their  own 
home  in  Africa,  and  in  the  lands  of  their  exile,  I  am  free  to  bear 
my  humble  testimony  to  their  many  excellencies, — to  their 
devoted  affection  for  those  who  treat  them  kindly, — and  especi- 
ally to  their  constant  and  unwavering  loyalty  to  the  British 
Government.  At  the  same  time,  black  men,  even  when  religious 
and  loyal,  are  but  men ;  and  if  citizens  of  fairer  complexion, 
and  with  superior  privileges,  in  other  lands,  have  been  goaded 
to  revolt  by  oppression  and  misgovernment,  why  should  we 
hastily  condemn  a  whole  race  of  people  for  real  or  alleged  crimes 
committed  by  a  few  of  their  number,  and  that  in  the  absence 
of  facts  which  may  yet  be  brought  to  light  in  their  favour  ? 
Bather  let  us  be  thankful  for  the  prompt  and  fearless  action  taken 
by  the  imperial  authorities  to  insure  a  full  and  impartial  investi- 


416  PAllT    II. — THE    WEST    INDIES. 

gation  into  the  whole  of  the  circumstances  connected  with  the 
event  which  we  deplore  ;  and  especially  for  the  influence  of  that 
Christian  instruction  which,  no  doubt,  kept  the  mass  of  the 
people  in  peace  and  quietness,  when  they  might  without  it  have 
been  goaded  to  desperation  by  proceedings  of  a  very  doubtful 
character ; — whilst,  at  the  same  time,  we  calmly  hope  for  better 
days. 

The  dark  cloud  which  now  hovers  over  the  sunny  isles  of  the 
west  wdll  not  always  continue.  The  light  of  prosperity — 
agricultural,  commercial,  and  religious — will  again  shine  upon 
those  interesting  colonies.  But  the  necessary  means  must  be 
employed  to  bring  about  the  desired  change.  Let  philanthropic 
capitalists  venture  to  invest  a  few  hundred  thousands  of  pounds^ 
of  their  spare  cash  in  buying  up  abandoned  estates  in  Jamaica, 
and  some  other  islands,  to  give  the  unemployed  labourers  work 
to  do.  They  are  not  an  indolent  people.  Quashy  will,  at  any 
time,  do  a  fair  day's  work  for  a  fair  day's  wage ;  and  the  experi- 
ment would  undoubtedly  pay  well.  Let  the  Wesleyan  Missionary 
Committee  send  out  a  well-selected  deputation  to  visit  every  sta- 
tion, converse  with  every  Missionary  and  Teacher,  collect  infor- 
mation in  reference  to  every  chapel,  school,  and  Circuit, — social,, 
financial,  and  religious, — and  report  figures,  facts,  and  opinions 
for  their  future  guidance.  Let  British  Christians  kindly  continue 
their  support  to  our  West  India  Missions  a  little  longer ;  not  for- 
getting that  these  have  been  the  most  successful  and  fruitful 
Missions  that  were  ever  established  in  any  country  since  the  days- 
of  the  Apostles.  Let  not  the  work  be  crippled,  and  the  spirit* 
of  the  Missionaries  crushed,  by  financial  retrenchment,  at  the 
very  time  when  they  most  urgently  need  the  sympathy  and 
prayers  of  God's  people.  Let  all  the  friends  of  Missions  be 
more  earnest  in  prayer  for  the  raising  up  of  native  labourers, 
the  outpouring  of  the  Holy  Spirit,  and  the  coming  of  Christ's 
kingdom,  in  this  interesting  portion  of  the  Mission  field,  and 
they  will  see  that  their  labours  are  not  in  vain  in  the  Lord.  The 
temporal  and  spiritual  interests  of  these  lovely  islands  will  again 
revive;  and  the  "  desert  shall  rejoice,  and  blossom  as  the  rose." 


PART  III. 

THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 


CHAPTER  I. 

TOPOGRAPHICAL   SURVEY. 

Southern  Africa  as  a  Country — Boundaries — Scenery — Mountains — 
Rivers — Lakes — Deserts — Forests — Productions — Natural  History — 
Climate — Native  Territories — Ovampoland — Damaraland— Namaqua- 
land — Bushmauland — Zululand — Basutuland — Griqualand — Transvaal 
Kepublic — Orange  Free  State — Kaffirland — Natal — British  Kaffraria 
— Cape  Colony — Eastern  Province — "Western  Province — Electoral 
Divisions — Towns — Villages — Hamlets. 

Having  recruited  liis  health  by  a  residence  in  his  native  land 
for  a  period  of  nearly  three  years,  the  writer  was  requested  by 
the  Committee  of  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  to  undertake 
a  Mission  to  Southern  Africa ;  and  at  the  Conference  of  1850  he 
received  an  appointment  as  the  "  General  Superintendent  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  District."  It  was  not  an  easy  task  to 
relinquish  at  once,  and  perhaps  for  ever,  all  the  comforts  and 
associations  of  a  respectable  English  Circuit ;  but  the  claims  of 
the  Church  were  regarded  as  paramount  to  every  other  con- 
sideration, and  the  sacrifice  was  cheerfully  made  in  the  strength 
of  Divine  grace.  Before  proceeding  to  give  the  result  of  his 
own  experience  and  observations,  during  a  residence  of  nearly 
ten  years  in  the  Cape  Colony,  it  appears  to  the  author  desirable 
to  present  the  reader  with  a  brief  account  of  the  general  aspect 

E  E 


418       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

of  the  country,  the  character  of  the  native  tribes  and  European 
colonists,  and  the  means  which  had  previously  been  employed 
to  promote  their  social  and  religious  improvement. 

Southern  Africa  may  be  said  to  comprise  that  portion  of  the 
great  continent  which  lies  to  the  south  of  the  Equator.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  east  by  the  Indian  Ocean,  on  the  west  by  the 
Atlantic,  on  the  north  by  the  unexplored  regions  of  the  interior, 
«nd  on  the  gouth  by  the  stormy  waters  of  the  ocean  which  washes 
the  immediate  shores  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

In  a  country  of  such  vast  extent,  being  nearly  two  thousand 
miles  in  length,  and  about  the  same  in  breadth,  we  are  not 
surprised  to  find  great  diversity  of  scenery,  soil,  and  climate. 
There  are  some  striking  features,  however,  which  apply  pretty 
generally  to  the  whole  of  this  extensive  and  interesting  portion 
of  the  globe.  Wherever  we  travel  in  Southern  Africa,  we 
behold  every  thing  on  a  grand  and  gigantic  scale.  There  is 
nothing  little  or  insignificant  in  the  topography  of  this  country. 
Every  scene  in  nature  corresponds  with  the  magnitude  of  the 
vast  continent  on  which  it  is  found.  The  mountains  generally 
rise  to  a  high  altitude,  and  frequently  stretch  away  in  apparently 
interminable  chains,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  till  they  are 
lost  in  the  dim  distance,  from  which  they  again  emerge  to  the 
view  of  the  admiring  traveller,  as  he  pursues  his  journey.  The 
valleys,  the  rivers,  the  lakes,  and  the  extensive  deserts,  are 
equally  imposing  in  their  general  aspect. 

The  principal  mountains  of  Southern  Africa  with  which  we 
have  any  definite  knowledge,  are  the  Omatako,  Khamiesberg, 
Sneeuwkop,  Piketberg,  Table  Mountain,  Langberg,  VVinterberg, 
Amatola,  Stromberg,  Cockscomb,  Compassberg,  and  the  Kolo- 
beng.  Some  of  these  elevated  peaks  belong  to  mountain  ranges 
which  run  nearly  parallel  with  the  coast  on  both  sides  of  the 
continent ;  and  they  are  backed  by  others  of  still  greater  altitude, 
concerning  which  little  is  known,  as  they  stretch  far  away  into 
the  unexplored  interior,  and  unite  to  form  what  is  technically 
called  by  geologists  the  "  backbone  "  of  Africa,  or  the  grand 
"  watershed  "  from  which  most  of  the  rivers  wend  their  way  to 
the  mighty  ocean. 

The    chief  rivers  are   the  Swakop,    Orange,    Buffel's,   Oli- 


CHAP.   I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL   SURVEY.  419 

Want's,  Berg,  and  the  Zout,  which  run  into  the  Atlantic;  and  the 
Breede,  Knysna,  Gauritz,  Gamtoos,  Sunday's,  Buffalo,  Kowie, 
Great  Tish,  Keiskamma,  Great  Kei,  Bashee,  Umtata,  Umzim- 
vooboo,  Tugela,  and  the  Zambezi,  which  flow  into  the  Indian 
Ocean.  With  the  exception  of  the  Zambezi  and  the  Breede, 
none  of  these  rivers  are  available  for  inland  navigation.  It  is 
true  that  vessels  may  And  a  safe  and  commodious  harbour  in 
the  mouth  of  the  Knysna,  in  the  district  of  George  ;  but,  so  far 
as  it  is  navigable,  this  may  be  regarded  as  a  lagoon  rather  than 
-as  a  river.  When  the  harbour  works  are  completed  which  are 
now  in  progress  at  the  mouths  of  the  Kowie  and  the  Buffalo,  it 
is  hoped  that  vessels  of  small  burden  will  be  able  to  ascend  a 
considerable  distance  up  these  rivers ;  but  at  present,  like  most 
others,  they  are  nearly  blocked  up  with  immense  sand-bars, 
which  stretch  across  their  mouths,  and  upon  which  the  waves 
of  the  sea  break  with  fearful  violence.  Indeed,  most  of  the 
rivers  of  South  Africa  are  only  periodically  supplied  with  water 
of  any  considerable  depth.  But  after  the  fall  of  heavy  rains  in 
the  interior,  they  frequently  swell  to  an  alarming  extent,  and 
sweep  away  all  before  them.  Then  travellers  may  be  seen  with 
their  waggons  and  carts,  waiting  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  day 
after  day,  till  the  waters  subside,  before  they  can  ford  the 
stream,  bridges  being  almost  unknown  in  the  interior. 

The  only  great  lakes  which  have  as  yet  been  discovered,  are 
Lake  N'Gami,  explored  in  1846  by  Mr.  Osvvell  and  Dr. 
Livingstone ;  the  Lake  Nyassa,  first  visited  by  the  last  named 
enterprising  traveller  in  1861 ;  and  the  Lake  Sherwa,  described 
in  the  narrative  of  D.  and  C.  Livingstone.  The  Nyassa  is,  in 
fact,  more  like  an  inland  sea  than  a  lake,  being  supposed  to  be 
upwards  of  two  hundred  miles  in  circumference,  and  remains 
yet  to  be  explored.  There  are  many  other  extensive  sheets  of 
water  to  be  seen  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  especially  after 
heavy  rains  have  fallen  ;  but  these  generally  dry  up  in  the 
summer  season  ;  and  from  the  saline  character  of  the  soil,  the 
ground  is  frequently  encrusted  with  a  coat  of  salt,  which  the 
natives  collect,  and  turn  to  good  account  as  an  article  of  com- 
merce. 

Extensive  tracts  of  country  in  various  parts  of  South  Africa 
2  E  2 


420       PAKT  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

frequently  present  the  appearance  of  sterile  wastes.  This  is 
more  especially  the  case  after  lon^  periods  of  drought,  when 
every  thing  is  burnt  brown  with  the  fiery  rays  of  the  sun,  and 
scarcely  a  blade  of  green  grass  is  to  be  seen  for  scores  of  miles. 
The  face  of  nature  in  the  same  localities  wears  a  very  different 
aspect,  however,  when  refreshing  rains  have  fallen.  Then 
vegetation  is  remarkably  rapid  in  its  growth,  and  in  the  course 
of  a  few  days  the  whole  landscape  wears  a  most  cheering  aspect. 
In  the  place  of  dreary  desert  wilds  we  now  behold  smiling  green 
pastures,  studded  with  beautiful  flowers  of  almost  every  hue, 
and  all  creation  seems  to  rejoice  in  the  delightful  change.  This 
circumstance  may  serve  to  account  for  the  conflicting  descrip- 
tions given  by  difi'erent  travellers  of  the  same  countries,  who 
have  passed  through  them  at  opposite  seasons  of  the  year. 

There  are  vast  regions  of  the  continent,  however,  to  which 
the  name  of  deserts  will  strictly  apply,  the  face  of  the  whole 
country  presenting  the  appearance  of  nothing  but  rugged  rocks 
and  shifting  sandy  plains,  and  where  gloomy  nature  never  smiles. 
In  passing  across  these  dreary  wastes,  the  way-worn  traveller 
may  pi;oceed  on  his  journey  day  after  day  without  meeting  with 
a  drop  of  water  to  refresh  himself  or  his  weary  cattle,  and  many 
have  perished  in  the  wilderness  before  relief  could  be  obtained. 
To  these  barren  tracts  of  country  the  natives  have  given  the 
name  of  karroos,  which  signifies  *'  dryness."  The  most  extensive 
of  these  is  the  Kalihari,  or  Great  Desert,  north  of  the  Orange 
Hiver,  extending  nearly  one  thousand  miles  in  length,  and 
about  three  hundred  in  breadth,  between  Great  Namaqualand 
and  the  Bechuana  Country.  Nearly  the  whole  west  coast  of 
Namaqualand,  from  Buft'el's  Eiver  to  Walvich  Bay,  may  also  be 
called  desert,  as  it  consists  of  a  succession  of  dreary  sand-hills 
and  barren  wastes,  to  a  distance  of  from  thirty  to  forty  miles 
from  the  sea-shore.  There  are,  moreover,  several  smaller  tracts 
of  country  of  a  similar  character  within  the  boundaries  of  the 
Cape  Colony,  which  are  very  thinly  inhabited,  in  consequence 
of  the  sterile  character  of  the  ground  and  scarcity  of  water. 
One  of  these  is  crossed  by  the  main  road  leading  from  Cape 
Town  to  Beaufort  West,  and  is  called,  by  way  of  distinction, 
"the  Karroo." 


CHAP.  I. — TOPOGEAPHICAL  SUEVEY.        421 

In  one  respect  the  topography  of  Southern  Africa  differs 
fmaterially  from  that  of  Western  Africa.  The  latter  country  is 
remarkable  for  the  extensive  and  primeval  forests  which  are 
found  skirting  the  margins  of  the  numerous  rivers,  and  crowning 
the  tops  of  the  highest  mountains ;  but  in  the  former  we  may 
travel  for  days  and  weeks  in  succession  without  ever  seeing  a 
tree  larger  than  a  mere  bush,  unless  we  meet  with  a  few  strag- 
gling camel-thorns,  or  willows,  scattered  along  the  beds  of 
periodical  rivers.  There  are  exceptions,  however,  to  this  pecu- 
liar feature  in  the  general  aspect  of  the  country.  In  some  parts 
of  Kaffraria,  Natal,  the  district  of  George,  and  other  localities, 
forests  of  considerable  extent  are  to  be  found,  which  afford  an 
ample  supply  of  fuel,  as  well  as  timber  for  building  and  other 
purposes. 

On  viewing  the  wild,  romantic,  and  generally  sterile  character 
of  the  scenery,  we  must  not  conclude  that  the  whole  country  is 
a  barren  wilderness.  With  the  exception  of  the  actual  deserts 
just  alluded  to,  the  most  unfavourable  districts  are  available  for 
the  grazing  and  rearing  of  cattle,  provided  they  have  a  wide 
range  of  pasture ;  and  on  the  south-eastern  coast  there  are  many 
large  sheep-farms,  where  tens  of  thousands  of  sheep  may  be 
seen  in  a  thriving  condition.  In  the  valleys,  and  on  the 
extensive  plains  between  the  mountains,  the  soil  is  frequently 
rich  and  fertile,  and  well  adapted  for  the  growth  of  all  kinds  of 
grain  and  other  valuable  produce.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  the 
colonial  towns  and  villages  may  be  seen  fruitful  vineyards, 
orchards,  and  gardens,  which  would  bear  a  comparison  with 
those  of  any  country  in  Europe.  The  greatest  drawback  to  the 
successful  prosecution  of  agricultural  labours  is  the  scarcity  of 
water,  the  irregularity  of  the  seasons,  and  the  long-continued 
droughts,  which  are  occasionally  experienced,  especially  in  the 
more  interior  districts  of  the  country.  These  difficulties,  it  is  to 
be  hoped,  will  be  in  a  measure  overcome,  in  the  course  of  time, 
•by  the  formation  of  tanks,  and  by  the  various  means  of  irrigation 
which  have  been  found  so  useful  in  India  and  other  countries 
subject  to  drought.  By  the  adoption  of  these  and  other 
.improvements,  the  capabilities  of  the  soil  will  be  more  fully 
■developed,  and  the  country  at  large  will  present  stronger  claims 


422        PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

to  the  attention  of  those  who  find  it  necessary  to  seek  a  home 
for  themselves  and  their  families  in  foreign  lands. 

Already  the  natural  and  mercantile  productions  of  Southern, 
Africa  are  considerable.  The  Cape  Colony  produces  corn,  wool^ 
wine,  aloes,  dried  fruit,  hides,  horns,  skins,  and  tallow.  From 
Namaqualand,  and  other  parts  of  the  interior,  are  brought  large 
quantities  of  cattle,  copper  ore,  ivory,  ostrich  feathers,  and  the 
skins  of  various  kinds  of  wild  animals,  tanned  and  prepared  for 
the  market  with  considerable  skill  by  the  natives.  And  in 
"N"atal  a  promising  commencement  has  been  made  in  the  cultiva- 
tion of  sugar,  coffee,  arrowroot,  indigo,  and  hemp.  Whilst 
these  and  other  commodities  have  become  staple  articles  of 
export,  butter,  brandy,  and  tobacco  are  manufactured  in  large 
quantities  for  home  consumption.  Vegetables  and  fruit  are 
found  in  great  variety  at  the  Cape ;  and  they  might  be  cheap 
and  plentiful  if  more  attention  were  paid  to  their  cultivation.. 
We  have  potatoes,  cabbages,  turnips,  carrots,  peas,  beans, 
kanalkoes,  and  the  squash ;  also  oranges,  apples,  pears,  peaches, 
loquats,  pineapples,  pomegranates,  and  the  quince,  with  other 
vegetables  and  fruits  of  minor  consequence. 

The  whole,  country  offers  a  fine  field  for  the  researches  of  the 
naturalist ;  and,  although  the  plan  of  this  work  does  not  admit 
of  a  detailed  account  of  the  various  branches  of  science  which 
have  been  or  might  be  prosecuted  at  the  Cape,  we  may  briefly 
note  a  few  particulars.  In  the  department  of  geology,  the 
stupendous  rocky  mountains  of  granite  and  other  formations 
demand  more  attention  than  they  have  hitherto  received,  not- 
withstanding the  praiseworthy  researches  of  Mr.  Bains  and 
others,  who  have  done  something  in  this  line  of  study ;  and  the- 
numerous  indications  of  copper,  iron,  and  other  metals,  which 
appear  in  various  parts  of  the  country,  are  deserving  of  full 
investigation.  The  botany  of  the  Cape  has  been  carefully 
studied  by  the  late  Dr.  Pappe,  who  has  embodied  the  result  of 
his  researches  in  an  interesting  work  entitled  "  Sylva  Capensis'* 
to  which  we  refer  the  reader  for  full  information  on  this  depart- 
ment of  science.  In  zoology  much  remains  to  be  done,  not- 
withstanding the  explorations  and  exploits  of  Mr.  Gordon 
Gumming  and  other  Nimrods.      Many  of  the  wild  animals^. 


CHAP.  I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL  SURVEY.        423 

once  so  numerous  in  the  Cape  Colony,  have  been  exterminated 
or  driven  back  before  the  onward  march  of  civilization.  The 
lion,  elephant,  caraelopard,  rhinoceros,  eland,  and  other  large 
animals,  are  found  only  in  the  remote  interior ;  but  the  tiger, 
wolf,  jackal,  baboon,  and  other  troublesome  creatures,  are 
frequently  found  sufficiently  near  to  annoy  the  colonial  farmer. 
Various  kinds  of  deer,  differing  in  size  from  the  gigantic  quagga 
to  the  delicate  antelope,  are  frequently  met  with.  The  ostrich 
is  very  common  in  the  deserts ;  and  smaller  birds  are  to  be  seen 
in  great  variety,  from  the  majestic  eagle  to  the  beautiful  little 
humming-bird. 

The  climate  of  those  parts  of  Africa  which  lie  south  of  the 
Tropic  of  Capricorn  is  generally  healthy :  but  the  regions 
beyond  are  not  so.  In  the  valley  of  the  Zambezi,  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Mozambique  and  Delago  Bay,  and,  indeed,  in  all 
the  countries  parallel  with  these,  fevers,  dysentery,  and  other 
diseases  incident  to  the  tropics,  are  prevalent.  And  when  we 
speak  of  the  climate  of  the  Cape  as  generally  healthy,  we  do  not 
intend  to  convey  the  idea  that  the  place  is  a  perfect  paradise  ; 
but  merely  that  it  is  superior  to  many  other  foreign  countries. 
There  are  many  drawbacks  to  health  and  comfort  even  in  the 
most  highly  favoured  parts  of  South  Africa.  The  heat  of 
summer  is  frequently  oppressive,  and  the  storms  of  winter  are 
often  violent  and  destructive.  "We  have  seen  half  a  dozen 
splendid  vessels  driven  on  shore  in  Table  Bay,  in  the  course  of 
a  few  hours,  by  the  violence  of  the  gale  from  the  north-west. 
The  south-east  winds,  which  prevail  in  the  summer  season,  have 
no  doubt  a  beneficial  influence  on  the  country,  in  a  sanitary 
point  of  view ;  but  they  are,  nevertheless,  a  source  of  great 
inconvenience  and  discomfort  to  the  inhabitants.  Such  is  the 
fury  with  which  they  sometimes  blow,  that  travelling  becomes 
not  only  difficult,  but  sometimes  dangerous.  Carriages  are 
occasionally  upset  on  the  roads,  communication  with  the  ship- 
ping in  the  bay  is  interrupted,  and  dense  clouds  of  dust  are  whirled 
about  in  every  direction,  the  red  particles  of  which  find  their 
way  into  every  house,  and  into  every  crevice  and  corner. 

The  commencement  of  a  violent  "  south-easter  "  is  accom- 
panied by  a  singular  phenomenon.     A  large  white  cloud  gathers 


424       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

around  the  top  of  Table  Mountain.  This  is  known  by  the 
people  as  the  "table-cloth;"  and  when  it  spreads  its  ample 
folds,  every  one  looks  out  for  the  coming  gale,  which  never  fails 
to  set  in  from  the  south-east.  This  unpleasant  wind  sometimes 
continues  to  blow  for  a  week  or  ten  days  without  intermission ; 
and  during  the  whole  time  the  white  cloud  may  be  seen  hover- 
ing round  the  top  of  the  mountain. 

Frost  and  snow  are  nearly  unknown  at  the  Cape.  It  is  only 
on  the  high  lands  of  the  interior  that  the  ground  occasionally 
becomes  covered  with  a  white  carpet  in  the  coldest  months  of 
winter  ;  and  even  then  it  soon  disappears.  On  the  tops  of  the 
mountains  the  snow  sometimes  remains  a  little  longer  ;  but  it  is 
soon  dissipated  by  the  powerful  rays  of  the  sun,  and  the  cold  is 
never  very  intense  or  of  long  duration.  There  are,  however, 
frequent  and  sudden  changes  in  the  temperature  of  the  atmo- 
sphere, to  which  may  be  attributed  the  numerous  ailments  of  a 
rheumatic  type  which  are  so  prevalent  among  all  classes  of 
people.  Cases  of  pulmonary  consumption  are  very  rare,  and 
the  climate  has  been  found  favourable  to  persons  of  weak  chests, 
when  they  have  availed  themselves  of  it  before  the  fatal  disease 
had  become  actually  developed. 

In  order  to  have  a  correct  view  of  Southern  Africa  as  a 
country,  we  must  regard  it  not  merely  in  its  general  outline, 
topographical  aspect,  soil,  and  climate,  but  also  in  its  internal 
divisions. 

In  addition  to  the  extensive  territories  occupied  by  the  re- 
spective native  tribes,  the  country  is  divided  into  five  grand 
compartments  under  separate  governments ;  namely,  the  Cape 
Colony,  British  Kaffraria,  the  Colony  of  Natal,  the  Orange  Free 
State,  and  the  Transvaal  Kepublic.  Each  of  these  we  shall 
endeavour  briefly  to  describe. 

The  regions  occupied  by  native  tribes,  which  have  of  late 
years  been  brought,  more  or  less,  into  contact  with  the  European 
settlers,  are  Ovampoland,  Damaraland,  Namaqualand,  Bush- 
manland,  Zululand,  Basutuland,  Griqualand,  and  Kaffirland. 
These  vast  territories  are  inhabited  by  nomadic  races  of  people, 
who  have,  as  yet,  made  but  little  progress  in  civilization,  unless 
we  make  an  exception  in  favour  of  those  who  have  profited 


CHAP.    I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL   SURVEY.  425 

most  by  the  labours  and  example  of  the  Missionaries  who  have 
been  stationed  among  them.  On  these  regions  we  may  offer  a 
few  passing  remarks,  before  we  come  to  speak  of  the  countries 
which  are  occupied  by  European  settlers  or  their  descendants. 

Ovampoland  consists  of  a  belt  of  sandy  country  which  lies 
between  the  west  coast  and  the  high  inhabited  table  lands  of  the 
interior  to  the  eastward.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Cuanene  river,  which  separates  it  from  the  Portuguese  territory 
of  Benguela,  and  on  the  south  by  Damaraland,  from  which  it  is 
only  divided  by  a  broad  thicket  of  acacias  and  camel-thorns. 
It  was  first  visited  by  Messrs.  Galton  and  Anderson  in  1850. 

Damaraland  is  situated  between  Walvich  Bay,  from  which 
it  is  easily  accessible,  and  Lake  'Ngarai  in  the  interior.  The 
country  consists  of  sandy  plains,  fertile  valleys,  and  towering 
mountains,  some  of  which  rise  to  an  altitude  of  six  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  was  first  visited  by  Sir  J. 
Alexander,  in  1838;  and  from  this  point  the  entire  continent 
was  crossed  from  east  to  west  by  Messrs.  Chapman  and  Edwards, 
in  1851-4,  several  years  before  the  celebrated  Dr.  Livingstone 
performed  the  wonderful  feat  of  crossing  it,  much  higher  up, 
from  the  Zambezi  to  St.  Paul  de  Loanda. 

Namaqualand  is  situated  to  the  southward  of  the  above. 
Little  Namaqualand,  which  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
Orange  Eiver,  has  for  many  years  been  included  in  the  Cape 
colony  ;  but  Great  Namaqualand,  which  extends  from  the  Orange 
Eiver  to  Damaraland,  and  from  the  west  coast  far  away  into  the 
interior,  is  still  numbered  among  the  native  territories.  It  con- 
sists chiefly  of  extensive  tracts  of  sandy,  rocky,  barren,  desert 
land,  where  cultivation  is  entirely  out  of  the  question,  except  in 
a  very  few  isolated  spots  in  the  beds  and  on  the  islands  of  peri- 
odical rivers,  and  where  the  inhabitants  obtain  a  miserable  sub- 
sistence chiefly  from  the  milk  of  their  flocks. 

Bushmanland  is  the  name  given  to  a  tract  of  country 
situated  on  the  south-east  of  Little  Namaqualand.  It  is  gene- 
rally destitute  of  inhabitants,  except  a  few  wandering  Bushmen, 
the  miserable  remnants  of  a  once  numerous  tribe  of  aborigines. 
After  favourable  rains,  the  ground  produces  grass,  which  grows 
in  large  tufts ;  and  the  country  is  resorted  to  by  the  Namaquas 


426        PART  III. THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

and  the  Dutch  Boers  Avith  their  flocks,  for  the  sake  of  the  excel- 
lent pasturage  wliich  it  then  nlfords. 

ZuUdand.  This  is  the  name  generally  given  to  the  extensive 
region  which  lies  between  the  British  colony  of  Natal  and  the 
Portuguese  settlements  in  tlie  neighbourhood  of  Delagoa  Bay, 
and  concerning  the  interior  of  which  little  as  yet  is  known.  It 
is  to  the  northern  portion  of  this  country  that  Bishop  Tozer 
and  his  party  of  the  Church  of  England  Mission  propose  to 
devote  their  labours,  since  their  failure  on  the  banks  of  the 
Zambezi ;  so  that  we  may  perhaps  hear  something  more  of  it  in 
time  to  come. 

Basutuland  is  a  comparatively  small  speck  of  country,  with 
an  area  of  about  fifteen  thousand  square  miles,  hemmed  in  by 
the  surrounding  lands  of  the  Orange  Tree  State,  Natal,  and 
Kaflirland  Proper.  It  is  a  rocky  mountainous  region,  in  which 
the  head  waters  rise  that  form  the  Caledon,  Vaal,  and  Orange 
rivers.  In  some  of  the  valleys  are  found  large  tracts  of  good 
land  in  a  state  of  ]-)artial  cultivation  ;  and  from  the  strongly 
marked  and  peculiar  natural  boundaries  by  which  the  country 
is  almost  environed,  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  it  may  be  preserved 
from  the  aggression  which  has  too  frequently  attended  European 
colonization.  The  native  inhabitants,  under  the  judicious  rule 
of  the  powerful  paramount  Chief  Moshesh,  have  made  consider- 
able progress  in  civilization  ;  and,  with  the  continuance  of  peace 
and  the  friendly  aid  of  the  Cape  Colony,  they  promise  to  present 
a  favourable  specimen  of  native  government.* 

Griqualand,  or  the  territory  inhabited  by  a  mixed  race  of 
Hottentot  and  European  blood,  stretches  along  the  northern 
bank  of  the  Orange  Eiver,  and  around  its  junction  with  the 
Vaal,  and  thus  to  a  considerable  extent  separates  the  Orange 
Pree  State  from  the  Cape  Colony.  A  large  portion  of  the 
country  towards  the  south-west  is  extremely  dry  and  barren,  and 
destitute  of  inhabitants,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  wandering 

*  The  above  paragraph  had  scarcely  been  penned,  when  the  painfnl  news 
arrived  of  a  war  having  broken  out  between  the  Basutus  and  the  Boers  of 
the  Orange  Free  State.  However  this  contest  may  terminate,  it  is  sure  to 
be  damaging  to  both  parties  ;  and  it  tends  to  coniirm  our  impression,  that  it 
would  have  been  better  for  all  concerned  if  the  Pree  State  territory  had 
continued  under  the  control  of  the  British  Government. 


CHAP.    I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL    SURVEY.  427 

hordes  of  Bushmen  already  mentioned,  who  obtain  a  miserable 
and  precarious  subsistence.  Near  the  junction  of  the  Orange 
and  Vaal  rivers,  and  to  the  eastward  of  it,  the  country  improves, 
and  is  equal,  if  not  superior,  to  many  parts  of  the  Cape  Colony, 
especially  for  sheep-farming.  Here  the  Griquas,  under  the 
Chiefs  Adam  Kok  and  A^'aterboer,  are  principally  settled  ;  and 
many  of  them  have  become  possessed  of  considerable  wealth  in 
land  and  cattle,  and  are  advancing  in  a  knowledge  of  the  arts  of 
civilized  life. 

The  Transvaal  Kepublic  is  situated  still  farther  away  in  the 
interior,  and  includes  all  the  country  north  of  the  Vaal  river, 
on  both  slopes  of  the  Cashan  Mountains,  which  form  the  water- 
shed line  between  the  Orange  river  and  the  Limpopo  river 
systems.  It  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  Yaal  river  to  its 
source,  which  separates  it  from  the  Orange  Pree  State,  on  the 
east  by  the  Drakensberg  mountains,  which  divide  it  from  Natal, 
and  on  the  north  by  the  Limpopo  river,  whilst  to  the  west  it 
has  no  properly  defined  limits,  but  stretches  away  towards  an 
unexplored  country,  some  portions  of  which  are  occupied  by  the 
Bechuana  tribes,  still  independent,  and  into  the  desert  region  of 
the  Kalihari.  Thus  an  area  of  probably  upwards  of  seventy 
thousand  square  miles  is  more  or  less  under  the  control  of  the 
Dutch  Boers,  who  trekhecl  or  emigrated  to  this  distant 
region  from  the  Cape,  Natal,  and  the  Sovereignty,  about  the 
year  1848.  The  occasion  of  this  general  move  northward  is 
said  to  have  been  the  dissatisfaction  with  which  the  Boers 
regarded  several  measures  of  the  British  Government,  such  as 
the  emancipation  of  the  slaves,  the  colonization  of  Natal,  and 
the  annexation  of  the  extensive  country  known  as  the  "  Sove- 
reignty." The  surface  of  the  country,  like  that  of  most  of  the 
interior  regions  of  South  Africa,  is  varied.  In  some  places, 
large  tracts  of  land  are  found  well  adapted  for  cultivation,  being- 
situated  in  the  neighbourhood  of  rivers,  which  are  available  for 
irrigation;  whilst  in  other  localities  there  are  grazing  lands 
and  extensive  forests,  which  will  no  doubt  be  turned  to  good 
account  as  the  population  increases.  Should  the  Boers  become 
more  settled,  and  more  pacific  in  their  attitude  and  bearing 
towards  the  native  tribes,  and  should  they  pay  more  attention 


428       PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

to  good  government,  education,  and  the  arts  of  civilized  life,  we 
may  hope  for  the  ultimate  prosperity  of  this  country,  as  it  pos- 
sesses many  advantages,  available  for  the  particular  class  of  peo- 
ple by  whom  it  is  inhabited.  The  capital  of  the  Republic  and 
the  seat  of  government  is  Potchefstroora,  on  the  Mooi  river, 
about  twenty  miles  north  of  the  Vaal,  and  one  thousand  two 
hundred  and  sixty  miles  north-east  of  Cape  Town. 

The  Orange  Free  State,  formerly  known  as  the  "  Sovereignty," 
may  be  regarded,  from  its  geographical  position,  as  a  kind  of 
connecting  link  between  the  Cape  Colony,  the  Transvaal  Re- 
public, and  Natal.  It  consists  chiefly  of  vast  undulating  plains, 
sloping  gently  down  from  the  Malute  mountains  to  the  Vaal 
river,  dotted  over,  however,  in  many  places,  with  rocky  hills, 
here  locally  called  ''kopjes;''  although  to  the  northward  hun- 
dreds of  square  miles  are  found  so  entirely  level  as  to  present 
scarcely  a  break  on  the  horizon.  The  Orange  Free  State  is 
bounded  on  the  west  and  north  by  the  Vaal  river,  which  sepa- 
rates it  from  the  Bechuana  country  and  the  Transvaal  Republic  ; 
on  the  north-east  by  the  Drakensberg  mountains,  which  separate 
it  from  Natal ;  on  the  south  by  the  Orange  river,  which  divides 
it  from  the  Cape  Colony  ;  whilst  the  Wittebergen  and  Griqua- 
land  lie  on  the  south-west.  This  extensive  tract  of  country 
comprises  an  area  of  about  fifty  thousand  square  miles,  and  was 
once  famous  for  its  game ;  but  of  late  years,  as  population  has 
increased,  the  numerous  herds  of  elands,  gemsboks,  and  other 
kinds  of  deer,  once  so  common  in  this  district,  have  retired  to 
the  more  interior  regions.  As  the  traveller  now  passes  through 
the  country,  he  sees  many  striking  evidences  of  the  advance  of 
civilization.  Towns  and  villages  are  rising  up  in  various 
places  ;  whilst  extensive  farms  for  the  cultivation  of  corn  and 
the  rearing  of  cattle  give  evidence  of  the  industry  of  the 
inhabitants. 

The  chief  towns  of  the  Orange  Free  State  are  Bloemfontein, 
Winburg,  Smithfield,  Harrismith,  and  Fauresmith,  which  are 
important  centres  of  agricultural  and  mercantile  business,  and 
which  give  names  to  the  five  districts  into  which  the  country  is 
divided.  Timber  for  building  purposes  is  scarce;  and  that 
which  is  required  for  fuel  is  collected  from  the  beds  of  periodical 


CHAP.    I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL    SURVEY.  429 

rivers,  and  other  watercourses,  where  the  willow,  poplar,  and 
acacia  are  occasionally  found.  The  principal  productions  for 
trade  and  commerce  are  wool,  cattle,  corn,  hides,  and  antelope 
skins,  in  exchange  for  which  the  inhabitants  receive  various 
articles  of  British  manufacture. 

The  colonization  of  this  country,  which  a  few  years  ago  was 
a  comparative  desert,  may  be  traced,  like  that  of  the  Transvaal 
Eepublic,  to  the  emigration  of  the  Dutch  Boers  from  the  Cape 
Colony  immediately  after  the  Kaffir  war  of  1835-6.  Many  of 
these  were  dissatisfied  with  British  rule,  and  especially  with  the 
Act  of  Parliament  for  the  emancipation  of  their  slaves.  Ear- 
nestly desiring  independency  and  freedom  from  control  as  to 
their  treatment  of  the  natives,  they  sold  their  farms  in  the  old 
colony,  and  planted  themselves  in  this  locality  beyond  the 
colonial  boundary.  They  were,  after  the  lapse  of  a  few  years^ 
disappointed  of  their  object,  however;  for  in  1848  the  whole 
country  was  annexed  to  the  British  empire  by  Sir  Harry  Smith, 
Governor  and  Commander-in-Chief  of  the  Cape  Colony.  His 
Excellency,  no  doubt,  deemed  this  arrangement  essential  to  the 
safety  and  welfare  of  British  interests  in  the  then  unsettled  state 
of  South  Africa ;  but  it  was  not  fully  approved  of  by  the  Im- 
perial Parliament.  Hence,  in  the  year  1854,  Sir  George  Clarke 
was  sent  out  as  a  Special  Commissioner,  to  arrange  with  the 
inhabitants  for  an  independent  form  of  government,  and  the 
organization  of  the  Orange  Free  State. 

It  would  be  foreign  to  our  object  here  to  enter  into  a  discus- 
sion of  the  question  of  the  relinquishment,  by  the  British 
Government,  of  this  portion  of  South  Africa ;  but  we  cannot 
let  the  opportunity  pass  without  expressing  the  decided  opinion 
that  this  was  a  grand  political  mistake  of  the  Imperial  Parlia- 
ment. Whether  we  regard  the  interests  of  commerce,  the 
civilization  of  the  native  tribes,  or  the  future  strength  and 
prosperity  of  Her  Majesty's  dominions  in  South  Africa  generally, 
we  feel  confident  that  it  would  have  been  ultimately  the  best  for 
all  parties  concerned,  if  the  temtory  of  the  Orange  Eree  State 
had  continued  under  British  rule.  Erom  the  results  of  this 
experiment  in  self-government  by  a  small  and  mixed  population 
far  away  from  the  great  centres  of  civilization,  we  shall  not  be 


430       PAUT  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

surprised  to  hear  of  the  re-annexation,  in  some  form,  at  no 
distant  period,  of  this  fine  country  to  the  British  empire,  espe- 
cially as  many  of  the  most  intelligent  of  the  inhabitants  seem 
earnestly  to  desire  it. 

Having-  thus  briefly  glanced  at  the  respective  countries  which 
are  situated  in  the  more  distant  and  interior  parts  of  South 
Africa,  we  shall  now  turn  our  attention  to  those  portions  of  the 
vast  peninsula  which  are  accessible  by  sea,  and  which,  in  one 
form  or  another,  are  subject  to  British  rule,  with  the  exception 
of  Kafiirland  Proper,  through  which  we  must  pass  in  travelling 
by  land  along  the  south-eastern  coast.  Commencing  our  survey 
in  the  north,  and  proceeding  southward,  we  may  first  notice  the 
colony  of  Natal, — a  comparatively  new  settlement,  which  has 
of  late  years  been  watched  with  feelings  of  deep  interest  by 
intending  emigrants,  and  concerning  which  a  few  particulars 
may  be  acceptable  to  the  reader. 

The  extensive  territory  known  as  the  colony  of  Natal  embraces 
an  area  of  about  twenty-five  thousand  square  miles ;  and,  in  its 
general  aspect,  presents  to  the  view  of  the  traveller  a  striking 
diversity  of  hill  and  dale,  mountain  and  valley,  with  vast  tracts 
of  excellent  land,  well  wooded,  and  watered  by  numerous  majestic 
rivers.  These  rivers  are  not  navigable,  being  crossed  in  some 
places  by  sandy  bars  and  rocky  rapids;  but  they  impart  a 
freshness  and  fertility  to  the  country  not  frequently  met  with  in 
South  Africa.  The  colony  is  bounded  on  the  west  by  the 
Umzimkulu  river,*  which  divides  it  from  Kaffirland;  and  a 
ridge  of  high  mountains,  called  the  Quathlamba,  or  Drakens- 
bergen,  separates  it  from  Basutuland  and  the  Orange  Free  State 
on  the  north.      On  the  east   it   is  separated   from  the  Zulu 

*  By  a  proclamation  recently  published  in  the  Natal  Government 
Gazette,  it  appears  that  on  and  after  the  13th  of  September,  1S65,  the 
western  boundary  of  the  colony  was  to  be  extended  from  the  Umzimkulu  to 
the  Umtumfana,  an  arrangement  by  which  a  tract  of  country,  with  twenty 
miles  of  sea-coast,  and  exteudiog  to  a  considerable  distance  into  the  interior, 
inhabited  by  ten  thousand  natives,  is  taken  from  Kafiirland,  and  added  to 
Natal.  By  whose  authority,  or  under  what  circumstances,  this  territory, 
to  the  extent  of  about  one  million  of  acres,  has  been  annexed  to  the  colony, 
does  not  appear ;  but  it  is  described  in  the  Natal  papers  as  a  fine  field  for 
European  settlers. 


CHAP.    I. — TOPOGllAPHICAL    SURVEY.  431 

country  by  Bufiel's  Eiver,  Avhilst  to  the  eastward  it  is  open  to 
the  Indian  Ocean. 

The  climate  of  Natal  partakes  much  of  a  tropical  character, 
violent  thunder-storms  frequently  occurring,  with  heavy  rains 
and  intense  heat,  in  the  summer  season.  It  is,  nevertheless, 
considered  very  healthy  and  congenial,  even  to  European  consti- 
tutions. Pevers  and  epidemics  are  almost  unknown,  except  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  a  few  swampy  spots  near  the  coast.  In 
the  high  lands  European  cereals  are  grown  to  a  considerable 
extent,  whilst  in  the  coast  districts  considerable  advancement 
has  been  made  in  the  cultivation  of  tropical  produce.  Among 
the  articles  of  export  we  already  notice  sugar,  indigo,  coffee, 
arrowroot,  and  pine-apples.  Several  sugar-mills  have  recently 
been  erected,  and  are  now  in  successful  operation ;  and  experi- 
ments in  the  cultivation  of  cotton  are  being  made,  with  the 
hope  of  profitable  results  from  the  large  demand  for  this  staple 
in  the  British  market. 

The  history  of  the  colonization  of  this  country,  like  that  of 
many  others,  is  marked  with  cruelty  and  blood.  The  place  is 
said  to  have  derived  its  name  from  the  circumstance  of  its 
having  been  discovered  by  the  Portuguese  on  Christmas  Day, 
1498  ;  but  it  does  not  appear  that  any  European  settlement 
was  formed  on  this  part  of  the  coast  at  that  early  period.  About 
the  year  1822  several  white  traders  visited  Natal,  w^hen  they 
found  the  whole  country  in  possession  of  the  powerful  Zulu 
Chief  Chaka,  who  ruled  in  the  most  sanguinary  manner  from 
the  Umzimkulu  to  the  St.  Lucia  rivers.  He  was  killed  and 
succeeded  by  his  brother  Dingaan,  in  1838.  About  this  time 
the  restless  and  dissatisfied  Dutch  Boers  began  to  enter  the 
country,  having  penetrated  throuoh  the  mountain  passes  of  the 
Drakensbergen.  Dingaan,  assuming  a  friendly  bearing  towards 
the  strangers,  invited  a  large  number  of  them  to  his  great  place, 
expressing  his  willingness  to  dispose  of  certain  lands  which  they 
required  for  their  settlement.  The  Dutch  farmers,  suspecting 
no  danger,  accepted  the  invitation ;  but,  when  surrounded  by 
thousands  of  Zulu  warriors,  and  in  the  midst  of  the  grand 
palaver,  at  a  given  signal  from  the  sanguinary  Chieftain,  the 
•emigrants  were  cruelly  massacred  in  cold  blood.     Dingaan  was 


432       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

soon  afterwards  attacked  in  his  turn  by  the  surviving  Dutch 
emigrants,  who  had  remained  at  a  distance  during  this  confer- 
ence, and  who,  after  repeated  conflicts,  finally  destroyed  him, 
and  made  his  brother  Panda  the  paramount  Chief.  The  Dutch 
Boers  now  settled  themselves  as  lords  and  masters  of  the 
country ;  but  their  proceedings  were  closely  watched  by  the 
authorities  of  the  Cape  Colony,  who,  on  the  ground  of  previous 
occupancy  by  colonial  traders,  laid  claim  to  an  extensive  district. 
In  the  year  1842,  after  severe  resistance  on  the  part  of  the 
Boers,  that  section  of  the  country  now  forming  the  colony  of 
Natal,  was  taken  possession  of  by  the  British  Government,  and 
it  was  proclaimed  an  English  colony  on  the  12th  of  May  in  the 
following  year.  Since  this  time,  although  labouring  under 
many  disadvantages  from  the  want  of  capital  and  labour,  it  has 
continued  to  progress  in  a  satisfactory  manner,  and  it  bids  fair 
to  become  a  valuable  appendage  to  the  British  crown,  having 
already  a  population  of  about  8,000  whites,  and  105,000 
coloured  persons. 

On  approaching  the  colony  of  Natal  from  the  sea,  the  atten- 
tion of  the  voyager  is  first  attracted  by  the  appearance  of  a  bold 
promontory,  or  headland,  called  the  Bluff,  which  rises  to  the 
height  of  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet,  and  is  covered  with 
trees  and  brushwood  in  perpetual  verdure,  down  to  the  shore. 
On  the  top  of  the  Blufi:"  a  lighthouse  and  signal  post  have 
been  erected.  Behind  this  conical  hill  is  situated  the  magni- 
ficent bay  for  which  Natal  is  so  celebrated.  This  extensive 
sheet  of  water,  which  is  five  miles  long  and  three  broad,  and 
completely  land-locked,  affords  a  commodious  and  safe  harbour 
in  all  weathers  for  such  vessels  as  can  avail  themselves  of  it; 
but,  unfortunately,  the  entrance  is  impeded  by  a  precarious- 
and  shifting  bar  of  sand,  which  renders  it  necessary  for  large 
vessels  of  deep  draught  to  anchor  in  the  roads  outside,  where 
they  are  exposed  to  the  heavy  swells  which  frequently  roll  in 
from  the  Indian  Ocean.  Hopes  are  entertained,  however,  that 
this  serious  impediment  will  ultimately  be  removed  by  the 
application  of  engineering  skill,  when  Port  Natal  may  become 
a  convenient  harbour  of  refuge  for  vessels  overtaken  by  storms 
on  their  voyages  to  and  from  India.     Nearly  in  the  centre  of 


CHAP.  I. — TOPOGKAPHICAL  SURVEY.         433 

the  bay  tliere  is  a  beautiful  island,  to  which,  as  well  as  to  the 
more  distant  bluff,  parties  of  pleasure  frequently  proceed  on 
festive  occasions,  when  aquatic  excursions  arc  the  order  of  the 
day. 

On  the  northern  margin  of  the  bay  stands  the  town  of 
D'Urban,  Avhich  is  already  adorned  with  a  number  of  good, 
buildings,  and  whicli  is  rapidly  advancing  to  the  position  of 
a  first-class  colonial  seaport.  To  this  place  belongs  the  honour 
of  constructing  the  first  railroad  v/hich  was  laid  down  in  South 
Africa.  It  was  formed  for  the  purpose  of  transporting  goods 
from  the  landing  place  to  the  warehouses  in  the  town,  a  distance 
of  about  three  miles  along  the  shore,  over  a  loose  sandy  soil, 
which  was  difficult  to  traverse  previous  to  this  arrangement. 
The  railway  will  no  doubt  prove  a  profitable  speculation. 

A  journey  of  about  fifty  miles  through  a  wild  and  rugged 
country  brings  the  traveller  to  Maritzberg,  the  capital  of  the 
colony,  and  the  seat  of  government.  Formerly  this  journey 
occupied  two  or  three  days,  with  the  cumbrous  ox-waggon ;  but 
now  it  may  be  accomplished  in  twenty-four  hours,  in  a  respect- 
able omnibus,  which  proceeds  at  a  rapid  rate,  being  furnished 
by  relays  of  horses  at  convenient  intervals  along  the  road,  after 
the  manner  of  the  good  old  English  stage  coaches.  Maritzberg 
is  beautifully  situated  in  a  lovely  valley,  surrounded  by  lofty 
mountains.  The  streets  are  laid  out  at  right  angles,  and  the 
dwelling-houses,  many  of  which  are  of  a  respectable  character,, 
are  generally  surrounded  by  gardens,  and  ornamented  with  trees 
and  streams  of  water, — objects  of  a  pleasing  character  anywhere, 
but  especially  in  Southern  Africa.  The  only  other  towns  of  any 
note  in  Natal  are  Verulam,  Ladysmith,  Eichraond,  Albert,  and 
Pine  Town  ;  but  villages  and  hamlets  are  being  laid  out  in 
various  places,  some  of  which  will  expand  into  important  towns 
and  cities,  as  population  increases,  and  the  resources  of  the 
country  become  moi:p  fully  developed. 

Since  Natal  became  a  separate  and  independent  colony,  it 
has  had  its  own  resident  Governor,  Judges,  Magistrates,  courts 
of  justice,  and  other  institutions  similar  to  those  which  have 
long  been  established  in  the  other  settlements.  Eepresentative 
government  has  also  been  introduced,  similar,  with  some  trifling 

r  F 


434        PART  III. THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

modifications,  to  that  which  has  been  awarded  to  the  Cape 
Colony;  and,  notwitlistanding  the  comparative  inexperience  of 
some  of  the  members  who  have  been  from  time  to  time  elected 
as  representatives  in  Parliament,  the  experiment  promises  to  be 
successful,  and  Natal  will  no  doubt  become  an  increasingly 
valuable  appendage  to  the  British  crown. 

On  proceeding  southward,  and  crossing  the  river  UmzimkulUj 
the  traveller  enters  Kaffirland, — avast  tract  of  country,  with 
an  area  of  25,000  square  miles,  separating  the  colony  of  Natal 
from  the  other  British  possessions  in  South  Africa,  and  still 
inhabited  by  various  wandering  tribes  of  natives.  Many  of  the 
best  friends  of  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  are  of  opinion  that  it 
would  be  for  the  advantage  of  the  native  tribes,  as  well  as  for 
the  interests  of  religion,  peace,  and  civilization,  if  this  portion 
of  the  great  continent  were  brought  under  British  rule  ;  but 
this  is  not  the  place  to  discuss  the  policy  of  annexation,  or  the 
adjustment  of  colonial  boundaries,  any  further  than  the  geo- 
graphical position  of  the  respective  settlements,  as  seen  on  the 
map,  may  call  forth  a  passing  remark.  The  general  aspect  of 
Kaffirland  is  broken  and  rugged,  the  country  being  intersected 
by  numerous  rivers,  which  flow  in  deep  valleys  or  ravines ;  by 
means  of  which  travelling  is  rendered  somewhat  difficult,  espe- 
cially after  heavy  rains,  when  the  mountain  torrents  carry  all 
before  them  in  their  rapid  course  towards  the  Indian  Ocean. 
There  are,  nevertheless,  tracts  of  excellent  land,  favourably 
situated  between  the  rivers,  and  along  the  base  of  the  mountains, 
which  would  richly  repay  the  labour  of  the  agriculturist,  if  they 
were  brought  under  cultivation.  This  part  of  the  coast  is  gene- 
rally favoured  with  an  ample  supply  of  wood  and  water, — advan- 
tages of  great  value  in  South  Africa.  Little  has  been  done  by 
the  natives  as  yet,  however,  to  develope  the  resources  of  the 
country  :  neither  can  much  be  expected,  till  they  become  more 
peaceful  and  settled  in  their  habits,  and  subject  to  a  more 
enlightened  and  civilized  form  of  government. 

British  Kaffraria  comprehends  the  country  which  lies  be- 
tween the  Keiskammaand  the  Great  Kei  rivers;  bounded  on  the 
north  by  the  Araatola  mountains,  and  from  their  eastern  extremity 
by  the  high  road  from   King  William's  Town  to  Queen's  Town, 


CHAP.    I. TOPOGRAPHICAL    SURVEY.  435 

as  far  ?is  the  Great  Kei  river, — an  area  of  about  4,000  square 
miles.  It  is  the  region  from  whence  issued,  until  finally  sub- 
jected to  British  rule,  those  hordes  of  Kaffir  marauders  which 
devastated  the  Cape  Colony,  in  the  various  wars  which  occurred 
from  1806  till  1853,  actuated  by  the  love  of  plunder,  or  excited 
to  fanaticism  by  false  prophets,  often  the  mere  tools  of  ambitious 
Chiefs. 

This  portion  of  Kaffirland  was  first  declared  a  British  province 
by  Sir  Benjamin  D'Urban,  after  the  Kaffir  war  of  1835-6, 
under  the  name  of  the  "  Province  of  Queen  Adelaide  ;  "  but  the 
measure  being  disapproved  of  by  the  Home  Government,  it  was, 
with  a  few  restrictions,  given  back  to  the  Kaffir  Chiefs,  together 
with  the  country  between  the  Great  Fish  and  the  Keiskamma 
rivers,  then  called  the  Neutral  Territory,  and  now  forming  the 
division  of  South  Victoria.  After  the  Kaffir  war  of  1846-7, 
Sir  Harry  Smith,  then  Governor  and  Commander-in-Chief  of 
the  Cape  Colony,  again  formed  this  country  into  a  British, 
province,  believing  that  without  such  a  measure  peace  could  not 
long  be  preserved.  This  time  the  Home  Government  acquiesced 
in  the  arrangement ;  and  it  has  ever  since  been  subject  to 
British  rule,  as  a  separate  dependency,  under  the  direction  of 
His  Excellency  the  Governor  of  the  Cape  Colony  as  High  Com- 
missioner for  this  special  purpose.  The  capital  of  the  province 
and  the  chief  military  depot,  is  King  William's  Town,  on  the 
Buffalo  river,  which  has  been  gradually  increasing  and  rising 
into  importance  as  the  elements  of  order  and  civilization  have 
prevailed  among  the  people.  The  port  of  British  Kaffraria  is 
at  the  mouth  of  the  Buffalo  river,  and  is  dignified  with  the 
name  of  East  London.  The  landing  of  goods  and  passengers 
at  this  place  has  hitherto  been  attended  with  difficulty  and 
danger,  in  consequence  of  the  exposed  character  of  the  anchor- 
age, and  the  heavy  swell  which  frequently  rolls  in  from  the 
Indian  Ocean ;  but  it  is  hoped  that  a  remedy  will  be  found 
for  this  evil,  when  the  extensive  harbour  improvements  now  in 
progress  are  completed. 

The  general  character  of  the  country  is  said  to  be  highly 
favourable  to  the  enterprise  of  British  settlers,  who  have  come 
in  considerable  numbers  to  occupy  the  farms  which  have  been 

2  F  2 


436       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OE  GOOD  HOPE. 

allotted  to  them  by  Government.  These  grants  have  been 
made  in  consideration  of  services  already  rendered,  or  to  be 
given  in  future,  for  the  defence  of  the  country,  if  necessary. 
In  addition  to  these  farms,  which  are  generally  occupied  by 
enterprising  young  colonists,  on  condition  of  militia  service, 
there  are  numerous  military  posts  established  in  various  parts 
of  the  country,  which,  together  with  the  advance  of  religion  and 
civilization,  afford  a  tolerable  guarantee  for  the  future  safety 
of  the  colony  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.*  To  this  most 
important  and  interesting  portion  of  South  Africa  we  would 
now  direct  the  attention  of  the  reader. 

The  Cape  Colony  has  been  enlarged  in  its  territorial  dimen- 
sions from  time  to  time,  and  is  now  bounded  on  the  north  and 
the  north-east  by  the  Orange  river,  which  divides  it  from  Great 
Tvaraaqualand,  Griqualand,  and  the  Free  State  republic  ;  on  the 
east  and  north-east  by  the  'Tees,  a  small  tributary  of  the  Orange 
River,  to  its  source,  thence  along  the  Stormbergen,  the  Indwe, 
and  Keiskamma  rivers,  to  the  sea,  which  divides  it  from  Basutu- 
land,  Kaffirland,  and  British  Kaffraria;  on  the  south  by  the 
Indian  Ocean ;  and  on  the  west  by  the  Atlantic. 

In  order  to  obtain  a  correct  view  of  the  Cape  Colony,  Ave 
must  consider  it  in  its  two  grand  compartments,  the  Eastern  and 
Western  Provinces.  These  are  again  subdivided  into  electoral 
divisions,  the  Eastern  Province  sending  seven  members  to  Par- 
liament, and  the  Western  Province  eight.  Wliilst  the  two  pro- 
vinces possess  many  features  in  common  v/ith  each  other,  there 
are,  at  the  same  time,  some  points  of  difference  which  are  worthy 
of  notice,  and  which  may,  perhaps,  in  some  measure,  account  for 
that  want  of  unanimity  and  hearty  co-operation  wliicli  we  have 
often  observed  and  deplored  in  people  inhabiting  the  east  and 
west  "  ends  of  tlie  colony,"  to  use  their  own  phrase. 

The  Eastern  Province  is,  to  a  considerable  extent,  inhabited 
by  English  settlers,  and  their  descendants,  whose  history  will  be 
noticed  hereafter.  It  is  divided  into  ten  electoral  divisions,  with 
their  civil   Commissioners,  Magistrates,  and  periodical  courts, 

*  Since  the  above  was  written,  British  KafTraria  has  been  annexed  to 
the  Cape  Colcny,  by  an  Act  of  the  Colonial  Parliament,  passed,  after  a 
very  animated  debate,  in  the  session  of  1805. 


CHAP.    I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL    SUEVEY.  4id 

namely  : — Albany,  Port  Elizabeth,  Uitenliage,  Tort  Beaufort, 
Graati'-Eeinet,  Somerset  (East),  Cradock,  Colesberg,  Albert,  and 
Victoria.  A  few  brief  observations  in  reference  to  each  of  these 
divisions  may  help  to  give  a  clear  view  of  the  character  of  the 
country,  and  be  of  service  when  future  reference  is  made  to  the 
respective  localities. 

Graham's  Town,  the  capital  of  the  Eastern  Province,  and  the 
principal  town  in  the  electoral  division  of  Albany,  is  situated  in 
a  pleasant  valley  about  six  hundred  miles  from  the  Cape,  and 
thirty  from  the  nearest  point  of  the  sea-coast.  It  is  well  laid  out 
with  wide  streets,  and  contains  many  good  buildings.  Since 
the  appointment  of  a  Bishop  it  has  been  raised  to  the  dignity  of 
^n  episcopal  city.  The  population,  according  to  the  last  census, 
is  8,188.  Tht3  coast  region  of  this  division,  called  Lower 
Albany,  and  formerly  known  as  the  Zuurveld,  is  suitable  for 
agricultural  purposes;  but  the  highland  district,  or  Upper 
Albany,  is  better  adapted  for  sheep  farming,  which  is  the  prin- 
cipal occupation  of  the  settlers  in  these  parts.  Bathurst  is  a 
pleasant  little  country  town,  and  gives  its  name  to  a  distiict 
now  incorporated  with  the  Albany  division.  Port  Francis  is  a 
.rising  little  seaport  at  the  mouth  of  the  Kowie  river;  and 
Salem  and  Eiebeek  are  pleasant  little  villages, 
i  (  Port  Elizabeth  is  tlie  principal  seaport  town  on  the  south- 
eastern coast  of  the  Cape  Colony,  as  well  as  the  principal  place 
in  the  electoral  division  to  which  it  gives  its  name.  A  few 
years  ago  it  was  a  mere  village,  and  presented  a  very  uninviting 
appearance  to  the  view  of  the  mariner,  as  he  entered  Algoa  Bay, 
on  the  margin  of  which  it  stands ;  but  it  is  now  a  rising  and 
respectable  town,  with  many  good  dwellings,  shops,  and  ware- 
houses, and  a  population  of  9,043.  Walmer  and  Korsten  are 
the  only  villages  in  this  division ;  the  former  is  six  miles  west, 
-and  the  latter  four  miles  east,  of  Port  Elizabeth. 

Uitenhage  is  a  considerable  inland  town,  situated  on  the 
Zwartkop  river,  about  twenty  miles  from  Port  Elizabeth,  and  is 
favoured  with  a  pleasant  and  fertile  site.  The  dwelling-houses, 
many  of  which  are  neat  and  respectable,  generally  stand  in  their 
own  separate  allotments,  surrounded  by  beautiful  gardens  and 
•orchards,  which  give  a  rural  and  pleasing  aspect  to  the  place. 


438       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

The  villciges  in  the  Uiteiihage  district  are  Darlington,  Alexan-^ 
dria,  Colchester,  Jansenville,  and  Humansdorp. 

Fort  Beaufort  is  an  important  town  in  immediate  connexion 
with  Stockenstrom,  or  the  Kat  Eiver  Settlement,  and  is  chiefly 
remarkable  for  its  extensive  arra}^  of  military  buildings,  being 
favourably  situated  for  the  defence  of  the  colony  in  the  time  of 
Kaffir  wars.  The  division  is  generally  mountainous  and  well 
wooded ;  and,  in  the  Kat  B-iver  valley  especially,  it  is  well 
"u^atered  and  fertile.  The  principal  villages  are  Eland's  Post,  or 
Seymour,  and  Philipton. 

Somerset  (East)  is  a  rising  town,  situated  at  the  foot  of  a- 
range  of  mountains  called  the  Boschbergen,  on  the  Little  Eish 
Eiver,  in  a  beautiful  country.  It  gives  its  name  to  an  extensive 
electoral  division,  celebrated  for  its  grazing  farms  and  sheep- 
walks.  The  only  other  place  of  consequence  in  the  district  is 
the  rising  little  town  of  Bedford. 

Graaff-Eeinctt  is  one  of  the  largest  inland  towns  of  the  Cape 
Colony.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Sunday's 
Eiver ;  and  the  streets  are  tastefully  laid  out,  and  planted  with 
orange  and  other  trees,  which  give  a  rural  and  pleasant  aspect 
to  the  place.  The  division  to  which  the  town  gives  its  name 
includes  a  high  mountain  range,  called  the  Sneeubergen  (Snow 
Mountains).  The  highest  mountain  in  the  colony,  the  Compass- 
berg,  which  rises  to  an  elevation  of  nine  thousand  feet,  is  situated 
in  this  division.  The  principal  towns  and  villages  are  Murrays- 
berg,  Aberdeen,  and  Eichmond. 

Cradock  is  a  small  but  important  town,  which  stands  in  the 
centre  of  an  elevated  basin,  surrounded  by  mountains,  and 
forming  the  electoral  division  to  which  the  town  gives  its  name. 
In  these  mountains,  which  are  frequently  covered  with  snow  in 
winter,  several  periodical  streams  take  their  rise,  and  unite  to 
form  the  Great  Eish  Eiver,  which  flows  past  the  town.  Several 
salt-pans  are  found  in  this  division  ;  but  it  cannot  boast  of  any 
other  towns  or  villages,  besides  the  one  already  named. 

Colesberg  is  an  advanced  post  on  the  far  distant  northern 
frontier  of  the  colony,  being  situated  only  twelve  miles  south  of 
the  Orange  Eiver,  and  gives  its  name  to  an  extensive,  but  some- 
what wild,  dry,  and  barren,  electoral  division.     Since  the  form- 


CHAP.    I.— TOPOGRAPHICAL    SURVEY.  439 

ation  of  dams  to  preserve  tlie  water  after  the  rains,  sheep  farming 
has  been  carried  on  with  considerable  success ;  and  this  division 
is  becoming  famous  for  the  excellent  quality  of  its  wool.  The 
other  towns  and  villages  are  Hanover,  Hope  Town,  and 
Middelburg. 

Albert  is  an  electoral  division,  so  called  in  honour  of  the  late 
Prince  Consort,  the  chief  towns  of  which  are  Burghersdorp,  on 
the  Stormberg  Spruit,  and  Aliwal  (North),  on  the  Orange  Kiver. 
The  only  other  places  of  consequence  are  the  extensive  native 
location  and  INIission  of  Wittebergen,  and  the  new  village  of 
Dordrecht.     This  also  is  chiefly  a  sheep-farming  district. 

Victoria  is  a  remote  and  newly-formed  electoral  division,  so 
called  in  honour  of  the  Queen  of  England,  the  capital  of  which 
is  Queen's  Town.  It  is  a  highly  fertile  and  well- watered 
region ;  and,  since  its  separation  from  Kaffirland  by  Sir  George 
Cathcart  in  1853,  it  has  been  rapidly  filling  up  with  European 
settlers,  to  whom  special  advantages  were  oifered,  with  a  view 
to  the  defence  of  the  colony. 

In  our  brief  topographical  survey  we  now  turn  to  the  Western 
Province  of  the  Cape  Colony,  which  is  also  divided  into  ten 
electoral  divisions,  for  judicial  and  fiscal  purposes,  and  which, 
with  their  respective  towns  and  villages,  call  for  a  few  brief 
notices ;  namely,  the  Cape,  Malmsbury,  Stellenbosch,  Paarl, 
Worcester,  Caledon,  Swellendam,  George,  Beaufort  (West),  and 
Clanwilliam. 

Cape  Town,  the  capital  of  the  Colony,  is  situated  in  a  con- 
tracted valley,  and  on  the  margin  of  an  extensive  bay,  with  Table 
Mountain  immediately  behind,  which  rises  up  almost  like  a  per- 
pendicular wall  of  granite  to  the  height  of  four  thousand  feet, 
and,  with  its  horizontal  summit,  from  which  it  takes  its  name, 
presents  a  singular  appearance  on  entering  the  harbour.  The 
streets  are  laid  out  at  right  angles,  and  many  of  the  buildings 
are  of  a  substantial  and  elegant  character.  Some  of  the  stores, 
or  shops,  and  warehouses,  with  elegant  plate-glass  windows 
and  highly  ornamental  fronts,  would  be  no  discredit  to  any  city 
in  Europe.  The  town  being  lighted  with  gas,  and  cabs  and 
omnibusses  plying  in  every  direction,  with  now  and  then  the 
shrill  sound  of' the  railway  whistle,  and  the  loud  snorting  of  the 


440        PART  III. — THE  CAPE  0/  GOOD  HOPE. 

iron  horse,  as  the  train  leaves  for  tlie  country,  the  place  is  more 
English  in  its  character  than  any  other  we  have  seen  in  foreign 
lands.  On  leaving  the  city,  and  crossing  the  dreary  sandy 
Cape  Flats  wliich  terminate  at  False  Bay,  and  separate  Table 
Mountain  from  the  interior  districts,  we  come  to  the  more  fer- 
tile regions  of  Tigerberg  and  Koeberg,  celebrated  for  their  corn 
farms,  all  included  in  the  Cape  division,  with  the  village  of 
D'Urban  for  their  centre.  But  the  towns  and  villages  in  the 
immediate  neighbourhood  of  the  city  demand  a  brief  descrip- 
tion. 

Rondebosch  is  a  pleasant  little  village  four  miles  from  Cape 
Town.  It  consists  of  a  number  of  detached  cottages  and 
respectable  mansions,  which  are  situated  on  each  side  of  the 
road  at  considerable  and  irregular  intervals,  separated  from  each 
other  by  fields,  gardens,  and  vineyards.  Mowbray  may  be 
regarded  as  a  continuation  of  Rondebosch,  and  consists  of 
dwelling-houses  of  a  similar  description  to  those  already  men- 
tioned. They  are  occupied  chiefly  by  Cape  Town  merchants 
and  Government  officials,  who  are  glad  to  escape  from  the  heat 
and  dust  of  the  city  to  this  agreeable  locality  when  they  have 
finished  the  business  of  the  day. 

Proceeding  along  a  tolerably  good  road,  each  side  of  which  is 
lined  with  oak  or  fir  trees,  with  here  and  there  a  beautiful 
mansion  embowered  in  verdant  foliage,  we  come  to  the  rural 
bat  straggling  village  of  Claremont,  about  six  miles  from  Cape 
Town,  in  which  are  many  pleasant  dwelling-houses. 

Wynberg  is  situated  about  eight  miles  from  the  capital,  partly 
behind  Table  Mountain,  and  is  a  beautiful  village,  and  cele- 
brated as  a  healthy  and  agreeable  place  of  resort  for  Indian 
visitors.  A  railroad  having  been  recently  opened  between  Cape 
Town  and  Wynberg,  calling  at  the  intermediate  places,  every 
facility  is  afforded  for  a  country  residence  to  parties  whose 
chief  duties  are  in  the  city. 

After  leaving  Wynberg,  the  road  soon  b  ecomes  more  dreary. 
On  the  right  we  have  a  range  of  rugged  mountains,  at  the  foot 
of  which  are  situated  a  few  scattered  farms,  and  on  the  left  a 
vast  sandy  plain,  on  which  may  be  seen  occasional  patches  of 
cultivation,  with  here  and  there  a  poor  labourer's  cottage.     To 


CHAP.    I. — TOPOGRAPHICAL    SURVEY.  441 

the  right  Ave  notice  in  the  distance  Constantin,  a  small  district 
celebrated  for  the  quality  of  its  wine.  After  travelling  a  distance 
of  about  fifteen  miles  from  Cape  Town,  we  reach  the  sea-shore, 
at  the  top  of  Talse  Baj'-,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  peninsula. 
Along  this  shore,  with  the  waves  dashing  up  among  the  rocks, 
the  road  leads  to  Simon's  Town,  which  may  be  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance, through  Kalk  Bay,  a  straggling  marine  village,  and  a 
fashionable  little  watering-place. 

Simon's  Town  is  a  lively  bustling  little  place,  situated  in  an 
amphitheatre  of  rugged  mountains,  with  very  little  land  avail- 
able for  cultivation.  It  contains  some  good  buildings,  the  most 
prominent  of  which  is  the  Wesleyan  chapel,  which  stands  in  a 
conspicuous  situation  on  an  eminence  above  the  town.  This 
place  derives  its  chief  importance  from  its  military  and  naval 
establishments,  including  the  Government  dockyards,  and  from 
the  bay,  which  affords  a  secure  harbour  for  shipping  in  all 
weathers. 

Malmsbury  is  a  pleasant  village  about  forty  miles  from  Cape 
Town,  in  the  direct  road  to  Xamaqualand,  and  gives  its  name 
to  an  electoral  division,  which  comprises  a  large  agricultural 
district,  including  Zvvartland,  Saldaniia  Bay,  and  the  villages  of 
Picketberg,  Hopefield,  and  Darling. 

Stellenbosch  is  an  ancient  and  important  agricultural  town 
nearly  thirty  miles  from  Cape  Town.  It  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  north  bank  of  the  Eerste  river,  at  the  head  of  a  beautiful 
and  fertile  valley.  The  streets  are  straight,  and  intersect  each 
other  at  right  angles.  Most  of  the  houses  are  built  after  the 
old  Dutch  style  of  architecture,  with  liiglily  ornamented  gables 
and  thatched  roofs :  they  are  nevertheless  substantial  and 
respectable  in  their  appearance.  A  stream  of  pure  water  runs 
along  each  side  of  the  principal  streets,  which  are  also  lined  with 
rows  of  oak  trees,  which  afford  a  refreshing  shade  in  the  sum- 
mer season,  and  add  much  to  the  beauty  of  the  place.  The 
only  other  places  of  consequence  in  the  Stellenbosch  division 
are  Somerset  (West),  about  thirty  miles  from  Cape  Town,  on  the 
high  road  to  Port  Elizabeth  and  Eransche-Hoek,  at  the  foot  of 
a  range  of  stupendous  mountains. 

Paarl  is  a  scattered  district  or  hamlet,  rather  than  a  village, 


443        PAET  Iir. THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

thirty-eight  miles  from  Cape  Town  ;  but  it  is  a  phice  of  exquisite 
rural  beauty.  The  dwelling-houses  stand  at  a  distance  from 
each  other,  along  an  extensive  plain  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain. 
The  intervals  are  occupied  by  gardens  and  vineyards,  which  give- 
to  the  neighbourhood  a  charming  prospect,  when  seen  from  a 
distance.  The  Paarl  Division  includes  the  village  of  Welling- 
ton, about  seven  miles  further,  to  which  a  railway  has  been 
opened  from  Cape  Town,  affording  great  facilities  for  travelling- 
to  these  and  the  intervening  places. 

Worcester  is  an  important  inland  agricultural  town,  about 
eighty  miles  from  the  Cape,  and  is  approached  through  a  stu- 
pendous mountain  pass,  called  Bain's  Kloof,  in  honour  of  the 
engineer  who  constructed  the  road.  This  place  is  the  centre  of 
a  populous  district  comprised  in  the  electoral  division  of  Wor- 
cester, including  the  rural  villages  of  Tulbagh  and  Ceres. 

Caledon  is  a  pleasant  little  town,  situated  behind  the  first 
mountain  range  from  the  Cape,  and  about  seventy  i^rk^  from 
the  capital  of  the  colony.  It  gives  its  name  to  an  elecKiral 
division,  which  includes  an  extensive  tract  of  undulatin^^ 
country,  with  the  interesting  villages  of  Bredasdorp,  Napiers- 
dorp,  Elim,  Yilliersdorp,  and  Gnadendal. 

Swellendam  is  an  ancient  inland  colonial  town,  founded  in 
1745,  on  the  high  road  to  the  north-eastern  frontier,  and  about 
one  hundred  and  forty  miles  from  Cape  Town.  It  is  the  centre 
of  an  important  and  populous  agricultural  electoral  division,  to 
which  it  gives  its  name,  embracing  many  large  farms,  and  the 
rising  villages  of  Heidelberg,  Eiversdale,  Robertson,  Ladysmith, 
and  Montague. 

George  is  the  name  of  a  straggling  village  and  electoral 
division,  still  farther  away  in  the  interior,  about  two  hundred 
and  ninety  miles  from  Cape  Town,  which  are  traversed  in  their 
entire  length  by  the  highway  to  the  frontier.  This  division 
includes  also  the  villages  of  Oudtshoorn,  Aliwal  (South),  Mel- 
ville, and  Bel  videre. 

Beaufort  (West)  is  a  new  and  rising  village,  in  a  wild  and 
remote  district  near  the  Orange  River,  three  hundred  and  thirty 
miles  from  Cape  Town,  and  gives  its  name  to  an  electoral 
division,  which  includes  an  immense  tract  of  country  not  well 


CHAP,    II. — NATIVE    TRIBES    AND    COLONISTS.  443 

adapted  for  agvicultural  purposes,  but  suitable  for  slieep  farms, 
of  which  there  are  a  great  number.  Tiiis  division  includes  also 
the  villages  of  Frazerburg,  Prince  Albert,  and  Victoria. 

Clanwilliam  is  the  most  extensive  division  in  the  Western 
Province,  embracing  the  whole  region  of  Little  Namaqualand, 
as  far  as  the  Orange  Eiver.  The  village  which  gives  its  name 
to  this  division,  is  situated  in  a  romantic  valley  in  the  Cedar 
Mountains,  and  is  the  place  of  residence  of  the  Civil  Com- 
missioner, whose  jurisdiction  extends  to  the  villages  of  Calvinia, 
Kharaiesberg,  and  Springbok  Pontein. 

This  topographical  survey  would  have  been  much  more 
minute  and  full  in  its  descriptions,  had  our  limits  admitted  of 
amplification  ;  but,  brief  and  imperfect  as  it  is,  it  may  serve  to 
give  some  idea  of  the  character  of  Southern  Africa  as  a  country, 
and  be  of  service  where  reference  is  made  to  different  localities 
in  the  course  of  our  IMissiouarv  narrative. 


CHAPTER  IT. 

XATIVE  TllIBES  AM)  COLONISTS. 

DiscovEUY  of  the  Cape— Early  History— Settled  by  the  Dutch— Taken  by 
the  English — Hottentots — Their  Origin — Character — Language- 
Bushmen — Namaquas — Korannas — Griquas — Other  coloured  Persons — ■ 
Kaffirs— Their  Appearance — Dress — Occupation — Food — Supersti- 
tions— Language — Different  Tribes — Amakosas— Amazulus— Bechu- 
anas — Damaras — Neguoes — Their  History — Character — jNIalavs — ■ 
Their  Origin — Personal  Appearance — Dress — Eood — Numbers — Reli- 
gion— EuRorEAN  Colonists —  Dutch —  English — Scotch — Irish — 
Erench — Germans. 

The  extensive  and  interesting  country,  which  has  just  passed 
under  review,  and.  which  is  known  by  the  general  name  of 
Southern  Africa,  is  inhabited  by  people  belonging  to  various 
nations  and  tribes,  of  different  shades  of  complexion,  and  speak- 
ing different  languages.     Some  of  these  may  be  regarded  as 


444  PAllT    III. — THE    CAPE    OF    GOOD    HOPE. 

aborigines,  properly  so  called,  whilst  many  more  have  come 
from  distant  regions,  settled  in  the  country,  and  adopted  it  as 
their  home.  Perhaps  the  most  intelligent  and  correct  view  of 
the  character  and  circumstances  of  the  population  will  be 
obtained  by  a  glance  at  the  manner  in  which  this  portion  of  the 
globe  first  became  known  to  the  civilized  world,  and  the  course 
which  events  have  taken  from  that  time  to  the  present,  so  far 
as  thev  affect  the  conaition  of  the  inhabitants. 

The  discovery  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  is,  by  general  con- 
sent, awarded  to  Bartholomew  Diaz,  a  native  of  Portugal,  who 
flourished  in  the  latter  part  of  the  fourteenth  century.  This 
enterprising  voyager,  having  been  commissioned  by  his  Sove- 
reign, John  11. ,  to  seek  for  a  maritime  passage  to  India, 
embarked  on  his  perilous  project  in  the  year  14S6.  After 
tracing  upwards  of  two  thousand  miles  of  the  unknown  w^estern 
coast,  he  came  in  sight  of  the  bold  promontory  since  designated 
*'  Table  ^fountain,"  and  which  forms  the  termination  of  the 
vast  continent  of  Africa  in  this  direction.  Here  he  was  over- 
taken by  a  viplent  tempest,  which  for  the  present  obstructed  his 
further  progress ;  and,  having  named  the  peninsula  which  he 
had  discovered  the  "  Cape  of  Storms,"  he  returned  to  his  own 
country,  supposing  he  had  reached  the  utmost  limits  of  practical 
navigation  to  the  southward.  The  King  of  Portugal,  however, 
was  more  sanguine  in  his  views ;  and  anticipating  still  further 
success,  he  changed  the  name  of  the  great  southern  promontory, 
discovered  by  Diaz,  to  that  of  the  "  Cape  of  Good  Hope."  He, 
moreover,  commissioned  the  navigator  to  proceed  on  a  second 
voyage  of  discovery,  with  a  view  to  explore  the  unknown 
regions  beyond  ;  but  on  this  occasion  Diaz  met  with  still  greater 
disasters,  and  ultimately  found  a  w^atery  grave  not  far  from  the 
place  where  he  w^as  obliged  to  relinquish  his  first  enterprise. 

About  ten  years  afterwards  the  celebrated  Garaa  was  employed 
in  a  similar  service  by  his  enterprising  Sovereign  Emanuel  II., 
when  he  succeeded  in  doubling  the  Cape ;  and  on  his  return 
reported  the  result  to  the  King,  who  immediately  dispatched 
other  ships,  for  the  purpose  of  examining  more  minutely  a  place 
which  appeared  of  such  great  importance  in  its  relation  to  India. 
On  their  arrival,  they  came  to  anchor  in  Table  Bay,  near  to 


CHA.P.    II. — NATIVE    TRIBES    AND    COLONISTS.  445 

Robin  Island  ;  and  the  sailors  lowered  their  boats,  and  went  on 
shore,  where  they  found  a  barren  country,  inhabited  by  wander- 
ing tribes  of  Hottentots,  who  were  living  in  a  state  of  extreme 
barbarism. 

Although  these  early  voyages  of  the  Portuguese  were  generally 
undertaken  with  a  professed  regard  for  God  and  religion,  the 
holy  sacrament  being  frequently  administered  to  the  sailors,  and 
wooden  crosses  erected  with  great  pomp  where  they  landed,  it 
is  lamentable  to  find  that  in  their  general  proceedings  and  treat- 
ment of  the  natives  their  conduct  was  anything  but  Christian. 
On  one  occasion,  wlien  the  Portuguese  were  on  shore  at  the 
Cape  with  the  natives,  a  pair  of  buckles,  worn  by  one  of  the 
sailors,  attracted  the  attention  of  the  savages.  A  dispute 
ensued,  which  ended  in  a  serious  quarrel,  and  a  massacre  of 
seventy-five  persons,  among  whom  were  Franciscus  de  Alrayda, 
deputy  King  of  Portugal,  and  two  of  his  Captains,  who  were 
shot  with  poisoned  arrows.  Some  time  afterwards  a  party  of 
Portuguese  landed  at  the  same  place,  and  knowing  that  the 
Hottentots  were  fond  of  shining  ornaments,  they  took  on  shore 
with  them  a  beautiful  brass  cannon,  professedly  as  a  present  for 
the  Chief.  To  the  cannon,  which  was  loaded  with  musket  balls, 
were  attached  a  couple  of  ropes,  that  the  natives  might  drag  it 
away  to  their  "great  place."  Not  aware  that  this  beautiful 
shining  object  was  an  instrument  of  destruction,  they  readily 
took  hold  of  the  ropes,  and  when  they  were  all  in  a  line  with 
the  mouth  of  the  gun,  a  person  previously  appointed  for  the 
purpose  fired  it  off,  when  a  number  of  poor  hapless  people  were 
hurried  into  eternity,  whilst  the  few  who  escaped  fled  to  the 
mountains  in  astonishment  and  dismay. 

Although  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  was  first  discovered  by  the 
Portuguese,  it  does  not  appear  that  they  formed  any  permanent 
settlement  there ;  but  merely  used  it  as  a  convenient  place  of 
call  and  refreshment  for  their  vessels  when  on  their  way  to  and 
from  India.  It  seems  also  to  have  been  occasionally  used  by 
the  English  for  the  same  purpose,  inscriptions  having  been  found 
cut  in  the  trees  and  rocks  with  the  respective  dates  of  1604, 
1620,  and  1622. 

In  the  year  1652,  the  Dutch  East  India  Company  took  formal 


446       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

possession  of  this  part  of  South  Africa.  The  first  Governor 
was  Jan  Van  Eiebeek,  a  man  of  singular  ability  and  genuine 
pietv.  As  might  be  expected,  under  such  a  leader,  every  public 
proceeding  in  connexion  with  the  establishment  of  the  colony- 
was  sanctified  by  the  word  of  God  and  prayer.  The  memory  of 
this  good  man  is  still  held  in  high  esteem  by  the  inhabitants ; 
and  his  portrait  adorns  the  Stad-huis,  or  Town  Hall,  in  Cape 
Town.  At  an  early  period  of  the  settlement  the  celebrated 
castle  was  erected,  as  well  as  several  houses  on  the  margin  of 
Table  Bay.  The  number  of  colonists  was  increased  from  time 
to  time  by  the  arrival  of  emigrants  from  Holland  ;  and  although 
quite  circumscribed  in  its  limits,  the  colony  enjoyed  a  consider- 
able measure  of  prosperity  for  several  years. 

In  1795,  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  was  captured  by  the 
British,  under  Sir  James  Craig ;  and,  in  the  month  of  May, 
1797,  Lord  Macartney  arrived  from  England  to  take  charge  of 
the  government.  In  1802,  the  colony  was  restored  to  the 
Dutch,  at  the  peace  of  Amiens ;  but,  on  the  breaking  out  of 
war  again,  in  1806,  it  was  re-taken  by  the  English,  under  Sir 
David  Baird.  Since  this  period  it  has  continued  in  our  possession, 
and  has  gradually  advanced  to  its  present  state  of  prosperity. 

The  boundaries  of  the  Cape  Colony  have  varied  considerably 
at  difierent  periods.  At  first  they  embraced  only  a  very  small 
quantity  of  land  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  capital,  as 
far  as  Salt  Kiver ;  but  now  the  territory  claimed  by  the  British 
Government  extends  from  the  extreme  point  of  the  peninsula 
to  the  Orange  River,  as  stated  in  a  former  chapter,  a  distance 
of  six  hundred  miles  on  the  Western  Coast,  and  to  the 
Keiskamma  river,  an  equal  distance  on  the  Eastern  Coast.  Be- 
yond these  limits  lie  British  KaftVaria,  recently  annexed  to  the 
€ape  Colony,  the  Colony  of  Natal,  the  Orange  Eree  State,  the 
Transvaal  Bepublic,  Kaffirland,  Basutuland,  Griqualand,  Na- 
maqualand,  and  Damaraland,  as  briefly  described  in  the  last 
chapter.  We  now  proceed  to  give  some  account  of  the  people 
inhabiting  these  countries,  as  preparatory  to  a  narrative  of  the 
means  Avhich  have  been  adopted  to  promote  their  spiritual 
interests,  and  to  raise  them  to  a  higher  state  of  civilization,  as 
^vell  as  of  social  and  moral  excellency. 


CnAP.    II.— NATIVE    TRIBES    AND    COLOKISTS.  44^7 

Diversified  as  are  the  inhabitants  of  Southern  Africa,  they 
may  all  with  propriety  be  classified  under  the  following  general 
heads,  namely : — Hottentots,  Kaffirs,  Kegroes,  jMalays,  and 
European  settlers. 

HOTTENTOTS. 

The  real  aborigines  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  are  undoubt- 
edly the  deeply  degraded  race  called  Hottentots,  whose  origin 
and  early  history  are  involved  in  much  obscurity.  Some  African 
travellers  and  ethnologists  have  expressed  the  opinion  that, 
from  the  resemblance  of  this  singular  section  of  the  human  race, 
in  complexion  and  features,  to  the  Chinese  and  the  ancient 
Egyptians,  they  must  all  have  had  one  common  origin  and 
home ;  and  that  the  progenitors  of  the  Hottentot  race  must,  at 
a  remote  period,  have  come  from  the  valley  of  the  Nile,  and,  by 
degrees,  have  travelled  the  whole  length  of  the  continent.  Be 
Ihis  as  it  may,  there  is  no  doubt  but  this  tribe  of  Africans,  like 
many  others,  has  undergone  considerable  change  since  the  coun- 
try was  first  visited  by  Europeans. 

The  Hottentots  of  the  Cape  are  generally  short  and  slender 
in  their  persons,  of  yellowish  complexion,  high  cheek-bones, 
short  forehead,  and  woolly  hair,  thinly  growing  in  short  knobs, 
and  scarcely  covering  the  head.  In  disposition  they  are  mild 
and  timid  ;  and,  although  deeply  degraded,  they  are  not  by 
any  means  so  stupid  as  some  have  represented  them  to  be. 
They  possess  a  tolerable  share  of  native  talent,  but  they  lack 
energy  to  call  it  into  action.  They  are  proverbially  indolent ; 
and,  in  their  natural  state,  eating  and  sleeping  appear  to  be  the 
objects  of  their  highest  ambition.  They  are,  nevertheless,  easily 
trained  to  any  kind  of  light  labour  and  domestic  duties.  They 
make  excellent  shepherds  and  house  servants,  and  are  very 
useful  to  the  farmers,  amongst  whom  they  chiefly  reside.  When 
brought  under  the  influence  of  religion,  they  are  readily  im- 
pressed with  the  truth  ;  and  we  have  known  many  of  them  who 
have  not  only  spoken  the  English  or  Dutch  language  with 
fluency,  but  have  learned  to  read  the  Scriptures  for  themselves, 
"to  pray  to  God,  and  to  worship  in  His  sanctuary  with  a  solemnity 
and  decorum  which  might  put  to  shame  many  professing  Chris- 


443        PART  III. THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

tians  of  other  lands,  who  live  in  the  habitual  neglect  of  these 
sacred  duties.  A  few  also  from  among  these  poor  outcasts 
have  been  raised  to  the  higher  work  of  preaching  the  Gospel  to 
their  fellow-countrymen. 

There  are  now  very  few  real  Hottentots  remaining  at  the  Cape. 
They  have,  to  a  considerable  extent,  become  amalgamated  with 
other  native  hordes,  or  with  the  descendants  of  the  original  Dutch 
settlers,  and  form  distinct  classes  of  people  yet  to  be  described. 
The  few  who  still  continue  unmixed  with  other  tribes  are  to  be- 
found  in  small  detached  settlements,  far  from  the  abodes  of 
civilized  men,  at  the  respective  jMission  Stations,  or  in  the  ser- 
vice of  the  Dutch  Boers.  Perhaps,  properly  speaking,  the  wan^ 
dering  tribes  of  Bushmen  found  in  the  interior  are  almost  the 
only  remaining  representatives  of  the  original  unmixed  Hot- 
tentot race.  These  are  certainly  the  most  abject  and  miserable 
specimens  of  humanity  that  we  ever  beheld,  in  any  country. 
They  are  extremely  diminutive  of  stature, — some  of  them  stand- 
ing not  more  than  three  or  four  feet  high, — and  remarkably  thin 
and  haggard  in  their  appearance.  They  wander  about  in  the 
desert,  destitute  of  clothing,  save  a  piece  of  sheepskin  thrown 
round  the  waist,  with  their  bows  and  poisoned  arrows  stuck  in 
the  hair  of  their  heads ;  and  obtain  a  miserable  subsistence  from 
the  uncertain  produce  of  the  chase,  roots  which  they  dig  up, 
and  the  larvae  of  ants,  with  an  occasional  treat  of  locusts  and 
wild  honey.  Bushmen  never  cultivate  the  ground ;  neither  do- 
they  possess  cattle,  unless  we  make  an  exception  in  some  cases 
where  a  few  goats  may  be  kept. 

The  Hottentot  language  is  a  strange  gibberish,  and  very 
difficult  for  an  European  to  learn,  unless  he  is  accustomed  to- 
hear  it  from  his  childhood.  Almost  all  the  monosyllables,  and 
the  leading  syllables  in  compound  words,  are  thrown  out  of  the 
mouth  with  a  sudden  retraction  of  the  tongue  from  the  teeth  icy 
the  palate,  and  sound  not  unlike  the  clacking  of  a  hen  with  her 
chickens.  These  strange  clicks  are,  nevertheless,  arranged 
according  to  inile,  and  must  occur  at  the  proper  place,  or  the 
sense  of  the  word  is  entirely  spoiled.  Difficult  as  this  language 
is,  it  has,  notwithstanding,  been  reduced  to  a  grammatical  form' 
by  the  Missionaries.  •  Some  portions  of  Scripture  have  been 


CHAP.    II. — NATIVE    TRIBES    AND    COLONISTS.  449 

translated  into  it,  and  the   Gospel  has  been  preached  to  this 
degraded  people,  in  some  places,  in  their  o^Yn  tongue. 

The  Namaquas,  who  occupy  a  large  tract  of  country  already- 
described,  are  evidently  a  branch  of  the  Hottentot  family. 
Having  for  generations  past  come  in  contact  and,  to  some 
extent,  intermixed  with  other  tribes  of  men,  they  now  appear 
much  superior  to  the  parent  race  from  which  they  have  descended. 
They  possess  the  same  general  complexion,  cast  of  countenance, 
and  outline  of  feature  ;  but  are  taller,  and  more  independent  in 
their  bearing.  The  Namaquas  resident  within  the  Cape  Colony 
have  generally  become  civilized.  They  cultivate  the  ground, 
possess  herds  of  cattle,  waggons,  and  horses ;  and,  in  the  know- 
ledge of  letters,  and  other  branches  of  general'  information, 
they  have,  in  some  instances,  got  in  advance  of  their  neighbours, 
the  Dutch  Boers,  as  will  be  seen  when  we  come  to  speak  of 
Mission  stations  established  among  them.  In  Great  Namaqua- 
land,  beyond  the  colonial  boundary,  the  people  are  less  advanced, 
inasmuch  as  they  have  not  been  favoured  with  the  same  privi- 
leges, and  occupy  a  country  where  agriculture  is  almost  out  of 
the  question.  They,  nevertheless,  own  extensive  herds  of  cattle, 
and  waggons,  with  whicli  they  move  about  from  place  to  place, 
as  the  state  of  the  pastures  and  the  seasons  require.  This 
interesting  people  are  divided  into  numerous  petty  tribes,  under 
the  leadership  of  separate  Chiefs  or  Captains,  and  will  come 
under  our  notice  again  in  the  course  of  our  narrative. 

The  Korannas,  another  branch  of  the  Hottentot  family, 
resemble  the  Namaquas  in  the  leading  features  of  their  cha- 
racter and  condition,  and  therefore  do  not  call  for  a  separate 
description  to  any  great  extent.  They  live  in  small  detached 
tribes,  under  separate  petty  Chiefs,  in  the  same  manner  as  their 
neighbours ;  and  wander  about  with  flocks  and  herds  over  an 
extensive  tract  of  country,  lying  between  Griqualand  on  the 
east,  and  Namaqualand  on  the  west.  It  is  a  very  easy  matter 
with  these  people  to  remove  a  town  or  a  village  ;  for  they  can 
take  to  pieces  their  spiral-shaped  huts,  made  of  sticks  and  mats, 
in  a  few  minutes,  pack  them  on  the  backs  of  their  oxen,  with 
their  other  goods  and  chattels,  and  march  off  to  their  next 
encampment.     Their  cultivation  is  limited  almost  entirely  to 

G    G 


450       PAUT  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

the  native  tobacco  plant,  with  sometimes  a  little  maize,  pump- 
kins, or  melons ;  and  they  subsist  chiefly  upon  the  milk  of  their 
flocks,  with  an  occasional  feast  of  animal  food  taken  from  the 
fold  or  procured  by  the  chase.  My  friend,  George  Thompson, 
Esq.,  who  travelled  among  the  Korannas  many  years  ago,  thus 
describes  a  party  of  them  whom  he  saw  : — "  They  were  mise- 
rable-looking beings,  emaciated  and  lank,  with  the  withered 
skin  hanging  in  folds  on  their  sides  ;  while  a  belt  bound  tight 
round  their  bodies  indicated  that  they  were  suffering,  like 
myself,  from  long  privation  of  food.  I  attempted  to  make 
them  understand  by  signs  that  I  was  in  want  of  provisions,  and 
ivould  gladly  purchase  some ;  but  they  replied  in  a  language 
wdiicli  could  not  be  misunderstood  by  shaking  their  heads,  and 
pointing  to  the  girdle  of  famine  tied  round  their  stomachs." 

The  Griquas  are  a  mixed  race  of  Hottentot  descent  on  the 
mother's  side,  whilst  they  claim  paternal  relationship  originally 
to  the  Dutch  Boers.  They  are  a  numerous  and  respectable 
tribe  of  natives,  and  occupy  an  extensive  tract  of  country  along 
the  northern  bank  of  the  Orange  River,  under  their  own  inde- 
pendent Chiefs.  Under  the  instructions  of  the  Missionaries, 
the  Griquas  have  risen  to  a  pleasing  state  of  civilization ;  and 
some  of  the  most  intelligent  and  wealthy  among  them  own 
good  farms  and  extensive  herds  and  flocks.  A  similar  class  of 
people  are  found  in  various  parts  of  the  colony,  dispersed 
among  the  farmers,  known  by  the  uncouth  name  of  "  Bastards," 
a  separate  description  of  whom  is  unnecessary. 
.  In  addition  to  the  difterent  tribes  of  people  already  men- 
tioned as  being  in  some  measure  of  Hottentot  descent,  we  have 
in  the  colonial  towns  and  villages  a  number  of  coloured  persons, 
many  of  whom  are  intelligent  and  truly  respectable.  They 
follow  various  branches  of  trade,  and  are  useful  members  of 
civil  society.  Those  who  are  brought  under  the  influence  of 
religion,  are  generally  very  active  in  the  cause  of  the  Redeemer, 
and  are  useful  members  of  difi'erent  branches  of  the  Christian 
Church. 

KAFFIRS. 
The  name  Kaffir  is  somewhat  vague  and  indefinite  in  its  sig- 


CHAP.    II. — NATIVE    TEIBES    AND    COLONISTS.  451 

nificatiou.  It  simply  means  "  infidel,"  or  "  unbeliever ; "  and  in 
]\lohammedau  countries  is  applied  exclusively  to  all  who  are 
not  Mussulmans.  In  relation  to  Africa,  however,  the  term  has 
become  applicable  of  late  years  to  a  numerous  and  powerful  race 
of  people  inhabiting  the  south-eastern  coast.  Very  little  is 
known  of  the  origin  and  early  history  of  this  people.  It  is 
generally  admitted,  however,  that  the  country  which  they  now 
occupy  has  not  been  their  home  for  many  generations,  and  that 
they  must  have  originally  come  from  the  northward.  They  are 
much  superior  in  their  personal  appearance,  and  in  their  mental 
qualities,  to  most  of  the  other  African  tribes.  They  are  thus 
described  by  the  traveller  Barrow,  "  There  is  perhaps  not  any 
nation  under  heaven  that  can  produce  so  fine  a  race  of  men  as 
the  Kaffirs.  They  are  tall,  stout,  muscular,  well-made,  elegant 
figures.  Their  countenance  is  ever  indicative  of  cheerfulness 
and  contentment.  Their  skin,  which  verges  towards  black,  and 
their  short  curly  hair,  are  rubbed  over  with  a  solution  of  red 
ochre,  which  produces  an  appearance  far  from  disagreeable." 
The  persons  of  the  women  are  not  so  handsome.  Accustomed 
to  field  labour,  as  well  as  to  domestic  drudgery,  the  ladies  are 
masculine  and  robust  in  their  appearance,  and  generally  of 
short  stature,  as  compared  with  their  lords.  The  colour  of 
their  eyes  is  sparkling  jet,  whilst  their  teeth  are  pearly  white 
and  remarkably  regular.  Although  the  Kaffir  is  of  similar 
complexion  to  the  Negro,  he  has  neither  the  thick  lips  nor  the 
fiat  nose  which  distinguish  the  inhabitants  of  the  higher  regions 
of  the  continent. 

The  carosse,  or  mantle  of  tanned  skins,  is  the  chief  article  of 
dress  used  by  both  sexes  among  the  Kaffirs.  That  of  the 
females  is  distinguished  by  a  thong  of  leather  suspended  from 
the  shoulder,  and  loaded  with  ornaments  of  various  kinds.  In 
addition  to  the  carosse,  the  females  wear  a  kind  of  petticoat 
made  of  leather,  and  a  small  apron  fringed  with  beads.  Indeed, 
they  are  passionately  fond  of  ornaments  of  all  kinds ;  and  we 
have  seen  them  literally  loaded  with  beads  of  various  sizes  and 
colour.  They  also  use  buttons,  buckles,  iron  and  copper  rings, 
for  the  same  purpose.  The  Kaffir  Chief  wears  a  carosse  of 
tiger,  or  more  properly  speaking,  leopard  skin,  a  kind  of 
2  G  2 


452       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

garb  which  no  person  of  inferior  rank  is  allowed  to  assurae. 
In  addition  to  this  mark  of  royalty,  he  carries,  or  has  carried 
before  him,  an  elephant's  tail,  which  is  eqnivalent  to  the  royal 
sceptre  in  more  civilized  countries.  Like  most  of  the  other 
native  tribes  of  South  Africa,  the  Kaffirs  live  in  huts  formed  of 
sticks,  and  made  water-tight  with  rush  matting,  in  shape  resem- 
bling beehives,  and  easily  moved  from  place  to  place. 

As  they  occupy  a  country  which  is  better  adapted  for  agri- 
cultural purposes  than  many  other  parts  of  Southern  Africa, 
the  Kaffirs  pay  more  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  the  soil 
than  most  other  native  tribes.  Whilst  the  men  and  boys  are 
engaged  in  attending  to  the  cattle,  the  women  and  girls  build 
the  huts,  cultivate  the  ground,  manufacture  earthen  pots,  and  con- 
struct baskets  of  the  Cyprus  grass.  They  plant  most  extensively 
the  Kaffir  corn,  which  is  a  species  of  millet,  also  maize,  kidney 
beans,  pumpkins,  Indian  corn,  and  water  melons.  The  native 
mode  of  preparing  the  ground  for  seed,  by  the  use  of  a  wooden 
hoe,  is  very  rude  and  simple  ;  but  of  late  years  many  improve- 
ments have  been  introduced  by  the  Missionaries.  When  they 
first  beheld  the  plough  in  operation,  they  gazed  at  each  other 
with  blank  astonishment.  At  length  an  old  Chief,  recovering 
irom  his  amazement,  broke  the  silence  by  exclaiming  with 
delight,  "  See  how  the  thing  tears  up  the  ground  wdth  its 
mouth  :  it  is  of  more  value  than  five  wives  !  " 

The  food  of  the  Kaffirs,  and  their  mode  of  living,  is  very 
simple.  They  seldom  take  more  than  two  meals  a  day.  These 
consist  chiefly  of  boiled  corn  and  milk,  with  slight  modifications 
according  to  circumstances.  They  seldom  eat  animal  food, 
except  on  the  occasions  of  great  festivals :  then  they  consume 
an  enormous  quantity,  and  abandon  themselves  to  a  life  of 
dissipation  for  several  days  together.  Kaffir  beer  is  made 
with  an  infusion  of  millet  which  has  undergone  a  regular 
process  of  drying,  grinding,  boiling,  and  fermenting,  some- 
what after  the  plan  of  preparing  malt  in  civilized  countries, 
and  is  very  intoxicating.  Tobacco  and  snuff  are  in  high 
estimation;  the  former  they  smoke  out  of  a  highly  finished 
wooden  pipe,  and  the  latter  they  convey  to  their  distended 
nostrils,  not  with  the  finger  and  thumb,   which  they  would 


CHAP.   II. — NATIVE    TRIBES    AND    COLONISTS.  453 

consider  vulgar,  but  with  a  small  iron  or  ivory  spoon,  which  they 
carry  stuck  in  their  hair  for  the  purpose. 

Those  who  have  been  most  intimately  acquainted  with  the 
various  Kaffir  tribes,  have  not  discovered  among  them  any 
traces  of  a  religious  system,  properly  so  called,  either  idolatrous 
or  otherwise,  or  anything  deserving  the  name  of  religious  rites 
or  ceremonies.  The  nearest  approach  to  it  is  the  practice  of 
throwing,  each  person,  a  stone  to  certain  heaps  which  they  pass 
when  on  a  journey;  but  this  appears  to  be  done  either  in 
memory  of  the  dead,  or  with  a  superstitious  notion  of  securing 
safety  while  travelling.  Circumcision  is  universally  practised  ; 
but  no  religious  idea  is  associated  with  the  ceremony.  They 
Lave  a  vague  notion  of  a  Supreme  Being,  whom  they  call 
Uhlanga  or  Utixo,  and  of  a  future  state  of  being,  but  no  notion 
of  rewards  or  punishments.  They  believe  in  witchcraft ;  and  the 
rain-makers  and  witch-doctors  drive  a  very  profitable  trade 
among  their  deluded  fellow-countrymen. 

This  brief  description  of  the  appearance,  and  manners,  and 
customs  of  the  Kaffirs  will  generally  apply  to  the  bold  and  war- 
like people  which  bear  that  name.  But  it  must  be  remembered 
that  they  exist  in  a  great  variety  of  tribes,  under  their  para- 
mount and  petty  Chiefs,  scattered  over  a  vast  extent  of  countiy, 
although  they  speak  the  same  language,  in  dialects  with  shades 
of  difference  one  from  the  other.  We  already  have  some  know- 
ledge of  the  following  tribes  :  namely,  the  Amakosa  *  Kaffirs, 
including  the  minor  tribes  of  Gaika,  Slambie,  Gonubi,  and 
some  others  living  in  British  Kaffraria ;  Amagaleka,  beyond  the 
Great  Kei ;  Amatembu,  or  Tambookies,  in  Kaffirland  proper ; 
Amaponda,  between  the  Bashee  and  the  Umzimculu;  Ama- 
baxa,  north  and  east  of  the  latter ;  Amalunga,  in  Natal,  and  on 
the  northern  border  ;  Amazulu,  east  of  Natal ;  Amazwasi,  near 
Delagoa  Bay ;  Amatabile,  south  of  the  Zambezi,  under  Moseli- 
katse ;  Amafengu,  or  Pingoes,  once  living  in  a  state  of  slavery 
among  the  other  Kaffir  tribes,  but  freed  by  the  British,  and 
now  living  in  locations  provided  for  them  in  the  Cape  Colony. 
In  addition  to  these  there  are  other  tribes  of  natives  in  South 
Africa  of  kindred  character,  and  which  might  come  under  the 


* 


The  prefix  Ama  signifies  "  people  "  or  "  tribe." 


454       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

general  head  of  Kaffirs,  but  which,  nevertheless,  have  some 
shades  of  difference,  and  seem  to  require  a  brief  separate  notice. 

We  refer  to  the  tribes  which  speak  the  Sechuana  language, 
which  differs  considerably  frera  the  Kaffir  proper,  although  it 
may  perhaps  be  traced  to  the  same  origin.  This  class  includes 
theBasutus,  north-west  of  the  Maluti  mountains  ;  the  Bechuanas, 
north  of  the  Orange  Eiver ;  and  the  Batclaps,  Bamungwatas, 
Bakweins,  Makolola,  &c.,  north  and  west  of  the  Boer  Eepublic, 
and  the  Vaal  and  Orange  Elvers.  The  most  powerful  of  these 
tribes  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Cape  Colony,  is  the  Basutus, 
under  the  paramount  Chief  Moshesh.  These  people  have  made 
considerable  progress  in  the  arts  of  civilized  life,  under  the 
direction  of  their  Missionaries  ;  and  the  old  Chief  himself  is  a 
remarkable  instance  of  native  talent,  shrewdness,  and  sagacity. 
The  Basutus  will  give  to  the  w^orld  an  interesting  specimen  of 
the  ability  of  the  African  for  self-government  and  advancement 
in  civilization,  if  they  be  protected,  and  not  crushed  by  their 
neighbours  of  fairer  complexion. 

The  Damaras  and  Ovampos,  to  the  north  of  Great  Naraaqua- 
land,  form  another  branch  of  this  extensive  family  of  South 
African  tribes.  These  people  speak  a  language  somewhat  different 
to  those  already  mentioned ;  and  yet  it  is  no  doubt  traceable  to 
the  same  fountain. 

NEGROES. 

Many  of  the  native  tribes  of  South  Africa  already  mentioned 
are  of  jet  black  complexion;  and  some  of  them,  as  the  Damaras, 
for  instance,  whose  home  is  in  the  far  north,  possess  other 
features  which  distinguish  the  Negro  character.  A  few  indi- 
viduals from  these  remote  regions  find  their  way  to  the  Cape 
Colony  in  the  service  of  African  traders,  and  never  return. 
But  in  addition  to  these  there  are  a  considerable  number  of  real 
Negroes  and  their  descendants  resident  at  the  Cape,  who  have 
been  rescued  from  slavers  by  British  men-of-war,  whilst  cruising 
chiefly  off  the  eastern  coast,  in  the  Mozambique  Channel.  These 
liberated  Africans  have  been  brought  to  the  Cape  at  different 
times,  and  have  found  employment  as  domestic  servants,  fisher- 
men, and  field  labourers,  in  which  capacities  they  have  been. 


CHAP.    II; — NATIVE    TRIBES    AND    COLONISTS.  45  5 

very  useful  to  the  community.  They  are  now  found  dispersed 
over  various  parts  of  the  colony,  and  many  of  them  have  been, 
broug'lit  under  religious  influences,  and  have  become  sober  and 
industrious  citizens. 

MALAYS. 

In  addition  to  the  various  tribes  of  natives  and  other  coloured 
inhabitants  of  the  Cape  Colony  already  mentioned,  there  is  a  nu- 
merous class  of  people  called  Malays.  Their  origin  is  to  be  traced 
to  an  early  period  of  the  possession  of  the  colony  by  the  Dutch. 
The  Cape  being  a  convenient  place  of  call  in  voyages  between 
Europe  and  India,  a  few  Dutch  settlers  arrived  there  from 
Batavia  as  early  as  1653,  bringing  their  Malay  servants  with 
them.  Slavery  had  existed  for  some  time  previously  at  Java  ; 
but  it  is  said  that  most  of  the  natives  of  the  east  who  were  first 
brought  to  South  Africa  came  as  free  servants,  and  v/ere  regis- 
tered as  slaves  on  their  arrival  at  the  Cape.  Be  this  as  it  may, 
there  is  no  doubt  but  the  number  of  Malays  was  subsequently 
increased  by  additional  importations  at  various  times,  and  under 
various  circumstances.  Government  documents  of  1710  record 
the  introduction  of  convicts  from  Java  and  Ceylon,  and  the 
names  of  a  number  of  persons  are  given  who  were  employed  on 
the  pubJic  works,  under  sentence  of  banishment,  some  of  whom 
were  afterwards  pardoned,  and  intermixed  with  this  class  of 
the  inhabitants.  In  1725,  several  Chiefs  of  Java  were  banished 
to  the  Cape,  as  a  punishment  for  the  part  they  had  taken  in  a 
grand  conspiracy  for  destroying  Dutch  dominion  by  the  slaughter 
of  every  Christian  in  the  island.  Again,  in  1737,  and  in  1749, 
a  number  of  Malays  of  distinction  were  sentenced  to  exile,  and 
brought  to  the  colony  as  state  prisoners.*     In  the  year  1831,  a 

*  One  of  these  was  regarded  as  an  eminent  saint,  and  to  him  some  "won- 
derful miracles  were  attributed.  Amongst  other  supernatural  feats,  he  is  said 
to  have  saved  from  destruction  the  crew  and  passengers  of  the  ship  which, 
conveyed  him  to  Africa,  by  converting  the  sea  water  into  pure  water,  when 
the  ship's  supply  of  the  latter  was  exhausted.  This  distinguished  personage 
was  buried  on  his  own  estate  near  Stellenbosch,  now  the  property  of  Mr. 
Cloete  of  Sandfleet ;  and  his  mausoleum,  which  is  regarded  with  veneration, 
and  kept  in  good  repair,  is  visited  as  a  shrine  by  multitudes  of  Malay 
pilgrims  from  various  parts  of  the  country.  , 


456      PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

number  of  distinguished  Arabs  from  the  island  of  Joanna,  in 
the  Mozambique  Channel,  visited  the  colony,  some  of  whom 
adopted  the  country  as  their  future  home,  being  kindly  received 
by  their  brethren  of  the  same  religious  faith,  and  ultimately 
amalgamated  with  them. 

From  all  these  sources,  with  the  occasional  arrival  of  Malay 
slaves  with  their  masters  from  the  east,  the  present  race  of 
Malays  has  sprung ;  and  being  all  rigid  Mohammedans,  they 
have  readily  amalgamated,  and  form  a  distinct  class  of  people, 
notwithstanding  the  shades  of  difference  in  their  national  origin. 
A  large  proportion  of  them  were  in  a  state  of  bondage,  .in 
common  with  many  other  black  and  coloured  inhabitants  of  the 
Cape  Colony,  till  the  general  emancipation  throughout  the 
British  empire,  in  1834,  when  they  were  all  made  free.  A  very 
few  of  the  modern  Malays  are  the  children  of  Java-born  parents, 
the  greater  proportion  of  them  having  descended  from  parents 
born  in  the  colony.  There  are  a  few  families  who  pride  them- 
selves in  being  Malay-Arabian  in  their  descent,  whilst  several 
more  of  the  present  generation  are  the  immediate  offspring  of 
female  slaves  and  Dutch  masters. 

In  personal  appearance  the  Cape  Malays  differ  from  any 
other  class  of  inhabitants.  They  are  generally  of  middle 
stature,  and  of  slight  but  sinewy  frame ;  their  eyes  are  small 
and  sparkling ;  their  hair  black  and  silky ;  their  features  are 
slightly  compressed,  but  expressive,  whilst  the  face  is  some- 
what elongated,  and  oval-shaped.  The  complexion  varies  from 
a  yellow  or  light  brown,  to  a  deep  olive.  The  men  cut  close 
the  hair  of  the  head,  but  allow  the  moustache  and  beard  to 
grow,  trimming  the  latter  into  a  peculiar  peaked  form.  The 
head-dress  of  the  Malay  man  is  a  small,  closely-tied  turban  of 
crimson  cloth  ;  his  other  covering,  a  neck-scarf,  a  vest  of  gay 
colours,  a  long  jacket,  and  wide  trousers.  Out  of  doors  he 
wears  a  hat  of  pyramidal  shape,  made  of  the  palm-leafed  grass, 
over  his  cap  of  crimson.  Some  of  the  Priests,  and  all  who 
have  achieved  a  pilgrimage  to  Mecca,  affect  an  oriental  dress, 
— cashmere  shawls,  massy  turbans,  and  long  flowing  robes  of 
printed  cotton  or  silk.  The  women  wear  their  hair  in  tresses, 
which  are  long,   black,  and  glossy;    brushed   back  from  the 


CHAP.    II. — NATIVE    TRIBES    AND    COLONISTS.  457 

temples,  and  fastened  behind  the  head  by  a  large  gold  or 
silver  bodkin.  Their  dress,  which  on  gala  days  is  of  silk  or 
other  expensive  material,  (but  ordinarily  of  cotton,)  differs 
from  that  of  European  females,  in  having  a  short  body  or 
spencer  of  a  different  colour  from  the  wide  skirt,  to  which  it 
is  attached.  They  never  wear  bonnets,  hats,  or  other  covering 
for  their  heads,  nor  does  a  vestige  of  the  eastern  custom  of 
veiling  remain  with  them.  In  choice  of  colours  and  arrange- 
ment they  often  display  considerable  taste,  and  appreciation  of 
effect ;  their  well  chosen  and  somewhat  showy  attire  adding 
a"  charm  to  their  personal  graces.  Their  figures  are  generally 
good,  and  their  features  not  devoid  of  comeliness. 

The  food  of  the  Malays  consists  chiefly  of  fish  and  rice,  and 
occasionally  of  flesh,  meat,  and  different  kinds  of  vegetables. 
Of  pork,  however,  they  dare  not  partake,  nor  yet  of  any 
animal  which  has  not  been  killed  by  a  Priest,  who,  in  slaughter- 
ing, performs  a  certain  ceremony,  which  is  considered  of  great 
importance  by  the  people.  Every  butcher  in  Cape  Town  is 
obliged  to  keep  a  Malay  Priest  in  his  pay,  who  comes  daily  to 
the  shambles  to  attend  to  this  duty,  or  he  would  not  be  able  to 
sell  any  meat  to  this  class  of  the  community. 

As  no  distinction  is  made  between  this  and  other  classes  of 
coloured  persons,  when  the  census  is  taken,  we  cannot  state  the 
certain  number  of  Malays  which  there  are  in  the  Cape  Colony ; 
but  from  a  careful  calculation  we  think  they  cannot  be 
fewer  than  ten  thousand  ;  seven  thousand  of  whom  may  reside 
in  Cape  Town,  whilst  the  remainder  are  scattered  abroad,  in 
different  towns  and  villages,  chiefly  of  the  Western  Province. 
The  Malays  are  industrious  and  thrifty  in  their  habits ;  and 
many  of  them  have  acquired  considerable  property  by  dint  of 
persevering  efforts.  They  make  good  mechanics,  coachmen, 
gardeners,  and  fishermen;  and  we  have  generally  found  them 
civil  and  respectful  when  in  our  employ. 

Although  strict  Mohammedans,  polygamy  is  not  generally 
practised  by  them.  They  abstain  Irom  the  use  of  wine  and 
spirituous  liquors,  but  are  fond  of  trips  of  pleasure  into  the 
country ;  and  it  is  a  pleasant  sight  on  a  Monday  to  see  waggon 
loads  of  men,  women,  and  children  driving  oft"  for  a  holiday. 


4o8       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

In  Cape  Town,  Clareraont,  and  some  other  places,  mosques  or 
places  of  worship  have  been  erected,  where  the  Malays  attend 
for  service  in  considerable  numbers,  on  Fridays,  and  on  their 
festivals.  The  Priests  who  officiate  on  these  occasions  are 
generally  more  or  less  acquainted  with  Arabic,  and  chant  their 
prayers  and  portions  of  the  Alkoran  with  considerable  fluency. 
They  are  very  far  from  being  united  in  their  views  and  efforts, 
however,  being  divided  into  five  different  sects,  which  regard 
each  other  with  feelings  of  bitter  jealousy.  With  a  view  to 
unite  and  further  instruct  the  Mohammedans  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope  in  the  doctrines  of  Islamism,  the  Ottoman  Govern- 
ment sent  out,  a  few  years  ago,  a  distinguished  Effendi  from 
Constantinople,  named  Abou  Beker ;  but  his  mission  has 
hitherto  been  apparently  fruitless,  several  of  the  Priests 
resisting  his  authority  w^ith  the  utmost  pertinacity,  even  to 
the  extent  of  actions  at  law. 

It  has  often  been  matter  of  regret  to  strangers  visiting  the 
Cape,  to  see  so  little  direct  effort  put  forth  by  Christian 
Ministers  and  people  for  the  conversion  of  tlie  Malays  of  Cape 
Town ;  but  the  fact  is,  that  far  more  has  been  done,  and  is  now 
being  done,  than  mere  visitors  are  aware  of.  Distinct  and 
separate  Missions  have  repeatedly  been  organized  for  their 
special  benefit ;  but  they  have  invariably  been  met  with  the 
most  determined  resistance  and  opposition,  by  both  Priests  and 
people,  till  they  have  been  necessarily  relinquished.  Several  of 
the  Missionaries  and  philanthropists  of  the  Cape  have  come  to 
the  conclusion,  after  many  years'  experience,  that  the  best  means 
of  benefitting  the  IMalays,  and  winning  them  over  to  the  faith 
and  practice  of  Christianity,  are  those  which  are  most  private, 
silent,  and  quiet  in  their  operation,  as  Mission  schools. 
Christian  kindness,  incidental  conversation,  and  holy  living. 
These  means  we  have  known  to  be  very  beneficial,  and  have 
witnessed  some  interesting  instances  of  conversion  from  the 
ranks  of  the  false  prophet  to  the  faith  of  the  Gospel.* 

*  For  further  information  in  reference  to  tbis  interesting;  people,  see  an 
able  pamphlet  by  Jobn  S.  Mayson,  Esq.,  of  Manchester,  on  "  The  iNIalays  of 
Cape  Town,  South  Africa,"  being  the  result  of  inquiries  made  by  him  when 
on  a  visit  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  in  the  year  1834,  when  the  ^^'titer 
had  the  pleasure  of  his  personal  acquaintance. 


CHAP.    II. — NATIVE    TRIBES    AND    COLONISTS.  459 

EUROPEAN  COLONISTS. 
We  now  come  to  notice  that  portion  of  the  population 
of  the  Cape  Colony  which  is  of  fairer  complexion,  and 
whose  origin  is  to  be  traced  to  the  north ;  they  or 
their  ancestors  having  at  different  periods  emigrated 
from  the  various  countries  of  Europe,  and  made  this  their 
adopted  country.  The  tirst  class  of  "pale-faced  strangers'* 
who  visited  the  country  for  the  purpose  of  forming  a  perma- 
nent settlement  were  the  Dutch.  The  Portuguese  had  been 
there  before,  but  they  soon  took  their  departure.  About  the 
middle  of  the  sixteenth  century  the  Dutch  took  formal 
possession  of  the  country,  from  which  period,  notwithstanding 
the  changes  which  have  taken  place  in  the  form  of  govern- 
ment, they  have  been  the  most  numerous  class  of  European 
colonists.  They  are  to  be  found  in  every  part  of  Southern 
Africa  ;  but  more  especially  in  the  Trans-Yaal  Eepublic,  in  the 
Orange  Free  State,  and  in  the  Western  Province  of  the  Cape 
Colony,  where  their  language  prevails  to  a  considerable  extent 
among  all  classes  of  the  community.  The  favourite  occupation 
of  the  Dutch  is  farming :  many  of  them,  having  obtained  grants 
of  extensive  tracts  of  land  at  an  early  period,  when  it  was  con- 
sidered of  little  value,  have  become  quite  wealthy,  and  live  in 
the  midst  of  plenty,  after  their  rude  fashion.  The  Dutch. 
*'  Boers,"  as  the  farmers  are  invariably  called,  are  remarkable 
for  their  hospitality  to  strangers,  if  favourably  impressed  with 
their  character,  and  the  object  of  their  visit.  In  order  to 
arrive  at  a  right  conclusion  on  these  points,  they  scan  the 
traveller  with  a  keen  eye  as  he  approaches  their  dwellings ; 
and,  before  he  has  time  to  alight  from  his  horse  or  vehicle,  the 
patriarch  of  the  family  generally  proposes  to  bim  three  import- 
ant questions  at  one  breath,  which  he  is  expected  to  answer 
without  equivocation;  namely,  '' Wie  ben  u?^^  '^  Waar  kom 
u  van  daan  ?  "  "  Waar  cja  u  ?  "  That  is,  in  plain  English, 
"  Who  are  you  ?"  "  Where  do  you  come  from  ?  "  "  Where  are  you 
going  ?  "  If  the  answer  to  these  queries  is  satisfactory,  the 
farmer  says,  ''Kom  hinnen^''  that  is,  "Come  in,"  and  from 
henceforth  the  traveller  is  heartily  welcome.  Beside  the  Boers 
who  reside  in  the  interior,  and  in  the  rural  districts,  there  are 


460       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

a  number  of  Dutch  gentlemen  to  be  found  in  the  towns  and 
villages  of  the  Cape  Colony  who  occupy  prominent  positions  as 
Ministers,  physicians,  lawyers,  government  officers,  and  mer- 
chants; and  our  intercourse  with  many  of  them  is  remembered 
with  pleasure. 

Since  the  Cape  Colony  became  a  permanent  appendage  to  the 
British  crown  at  an  early  period  of  the  present  century,  the 
number  of  English  settlers  has  been  every  year  increasing ;  but 
the  largest  accession  to  this  class  of  colonists  was  made  in  the 
year  1820,  when  several  thousands  arrived  in  the  course  of  a 
few  months,  and  were  located  in  Albany  and  other  parts  of  the 
Eastern  Province.  That  large  importation  of  the  British  element, 
with  subsequent  emigration  on  a  smaller  and  more  gradual  scale, 
has  rendered  South-Eastern  Africa  more  English  in  its  character 
than  any  other  portion  of  the  great  continent.  In  the  stores 
of  Port  Elizabeth  and  Graham's  Town,  and  on  many  of  the  farms 
in  the  rural  districts  of  the  eastern  frontier,  the  English  traveller 
might  almost  imagine  himself  back  again  in  his  own  country. 
And  of  late  years  the  English  element  in  Cape  Town  and  its 
vicinity  has  rapidly  increased  ;  so  that  everywhere  the  English 
language  is  daily  spoken,  and  our  countrymen  are  found  occupy- 
ing every  possible  position  in  the  social  scale,  from  the  Governor 
of  the  colony  to  the  meanest  artisan. 

There  are  also  at  the  Cape,  as  in  most  of  the  colonies  of  the 
British  empire,  a  considerable  number  of  Scotch  and  Irish 
settlers,  located  in  different  parts  of  the  country,  who  are  noted 
for  their  industrious  and  thrifty  habits.  The  largest  number  of 
either  of  these  classes  of  colonists  which  has  ever  arrived  at  one 
time  was  the  Scottish  party  of  British  settlers,  who  came  out  in 
1820  under  Mr.  Pringle,  the  celebrated  poet  of  South  Africa. 
These  settled  at  a  place  called  Glen  Lyden,  and,  although  their 
descendants  became  scattered  in  after  years,  they  and  their 
enterprising  countrymen  who  have  emigrated  at  difl'erent  times 
form  an  important  part  of  the  European  community  of  the  Cape 
Colony. 

In  addition  to  the  various  classes  of  inhabitants  already  men- 
tioned, we  have  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  French,  Germans,  and  other  persons  belonging  to  different 


CHAP.    II. — KATIYE    TEIBES   AND    COLONISTS.  461 

continental  nations,  a  particular  description  of  whom  is  not 
necessary.  At  an  early  period  of  the  history  of  the  Cape  Colony, 
on  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Nantes,  a  number  of  French 
Protestant  refugees  emigrated  to  South  Africa,  that  they  might 
have  the  privilege  of  worshipping  God  according  to  the  dictates 
of  their  own  conscience.  These  were  located  by  the  Dutch 
Government  in  a  fertile  valley  called  Eransche  Hoek,  or  "  French 
Corner,"  a  spot  which  we  remember  well,  and  which  has  been 
rendered  additionally  interesting  by  one  of  the  beautiful  sonnets 
of  the  poet  Pringle.  These  early  French  settlers  addicted  them- 
selves to  the  cultivation  of  the  vine,  for  which  the  climate  and 
the  soil  were  found  congenial.  Their  descendants  have  become, 
to  a  considerable  extent,  amalgamated  with  the  Dutch  portion 
of  the  community ;  but  the  French  element  of  society  has 
been  replenished  by  more  recent  arrivals  from  Europe  at  differ- 
ent times. 

At  the  close  of  the  Crimean  war,  when  the  German  legions 
were  disbanded,  a  large  number  of  the  soldiers  accepted  an  offer 
which  was  made  to  them  of  a  free  passage  to  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  and  grants  of  land  on  the  eastern  frontier,  to  be  held  on 
condition  of  military  service  rendered  for  the  defence  of  the 
colony.  Although  the  settlement  of  these  Germans  does  not 
appear  to  have  answered  its  intended  purpose,  the  people  having 
become  much  scattered,  it  added  largely  to  this  particular  portion 
of  the  European  population,  and  furnished  a  number  of  indus- 
trious artisans  at  a  time  when  they  were  much  required. 

Thus  diversified  in  national  origin,  complexion,  language,  and 
circumstances,  is  the  population  of  Southern  Africa,  both  native 
and  European,  upon  whose  temporal  and  eternal  interests  the 
labours  of  the  Missionary  and  philanthropist  are  brought  to 
bear.  Surely  a  more  important  and  interesting  field  of  enter- 
prise cannot  be  found  in  any  other  part  of  the  world. 

From  the  perusal  of  the  following  chapters  the  reader  will  be 
able  to  form  some  idea  of  what  has  already  been  done  to  supply 
the  spiritual  necessities  of  the  inhabitants  of  Southern  Africa, 
and  of  what  still  remains  to  be  done  in  order  to  make  adequate 
provision  for  their  religious  instruction. 


463       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

CHAPTER  III. 

WESLEYAN  MISSIONS. 

British  Settlers — Rev.  William  Shaw — Stations  iu  Albany — Kaffir  Mission 
— Bechuana  Mission — Cape  of  Good  Hope  District — Rev.  Barnabas 
Shaw — Little  Namaqualand  Mission — Rev.  E.  Edwards — Missionary 
Journeys — Progress  of  the  work  at  Khamiesberg — Great  Namaqualand 
Mission — Rev.  W.  ThrelfaU — Jacob  Links — Johannes  Jager — Mis- 
sionary Martyrs — Execution  of  the  Murderer — Damara  Mission — Cape 
Town  and  neighbouring  Stations — Rev.  R.  Snowdall — Rev.  T.  L. 
Hodgson. 

At  an  early  period  of  the  colonial  history  of  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope,  the  wretched  condition  of  the  native  tribes,  and 
the  spiritual  destitution  of  the  European  settlers,  attracted  the 
•attention  of  the  friends  of  Missions ;  and  it  is  a  pleasing  fact 
that,  at  the  present  time,  a  larger  number  of  Missionary  agents 
are  employed  in  Southern  Africa  than  in  any  other  portion  of 
the  globe  of  the  same  extent.  As  in  many  other  instances,  so  in 
this,  the  Moravians  had  the  honour  of  being  first  in  the  field, 
the  llev.  George  Schmidt  having  gone  out  as  early  as  1737; 
and,  notwithstanding  many  interruptions  at  first,  their  humble 
and  unassuming  labours  have  been  made  a  great  blessing  to  the 
Hottentots  and  other  native  tribes  among  whom  their  Missions 
have  been  planted.  Their  first  station  was  Genadendal,  (the 
Vale  of  Grace,)  about  one  hundred  miles  from  Cape  Town,  where 
a  large  pear  tree  is  still  shown,  said  to  have  been  planted  by  the 
Missionary  just  named.  In  1799,  the  eccentric  but  zealous  Dr. 
Yanderkemp  commenced  his  labours  in  Kaffirland,  in  the  service 
of  the  London  Missionary  Society ;  and,  in  after  years,  he  was 
followed  by  a  host  of  Missionaries  from  the  same  nistitution, 
who  laid  the  foundation  of  a  great  and  good  work  in  various 
parts  of  the  country,  which  has  continued  to  prosper  to  the  pre- 
sent time.  It  was  not  until  the  year  1814  that  the  Wesleyan 
Missionary  Society  was  in  a  position  to  take  its  share  in  the 


CHAP.    III. — TVESLEYAN    I\IISSIONS.  463 

evangelization  of  Southern  Africa  ;  but  since  that  period  it  has 
heen  second  to  none  in  the  zealous  and  successful  prosecution 
of  the  great  and  glorious  work.  More  recently  the  great  field 
has  been  entered  by  the  agents  of  the  Scottish,  Khenish,  Berlin, 
Paris,  and  Hamburg  Missionary  Societies,  all  of  whom  have 
laboured  with  more  or  less  success,  whilst  the  English  and  Dutch 
Eeformed  Churches  have  awaked  up  and  manifested  a  degree  of 
earnestness  in  the  diffusion  of  the  Gospel  unknown  in  former 
times.  But,  notwithstanding  the  exertions  of  these  multiplied 
agencies,  there  is  a  loud  call  for  much  more  being  done  before 
the  claims  of  this  vast  continent  can  be  fully  met. 

In  giving  a  brief  historical  sketch  of  the  labours  of  the  AYes- 
•leyan  Missionary  Society  in  Southern  Africa,  it  may  be  con- 
venient to  begin  with  the  Eastern  Province  of  the  Cape  Colony, 
and  the  efforts  which  have  been  made  to  civilize  the  Kaffir  hordes 
inhabiting  the  south-eastern  coast,  although  these  were  not  the 
portions  of  the  field  first  occupied  by  its  agents. 

In  the  year  1820,  a  plan  having  been  formed  by  the  British 
Government  to  send  out  about  four  thousand  English  emigrants, 
to  occupy  an  extensive  country  north  of  Algoa  Bay,  the  Rev. 
William  Shaw,  with  Mrs.  Shaw,  embarked  with  a  party  of  Wes- 
leyans,  Mr.  Shaw  having  been  appointed  as  their  Chaplain  or 
Minister,  according  to  a  previous  arrangement.  The  settlers 
had  many  difficulties  to  contend  with  at  an  early  period  of  their 
African  experience,  from  unpropitious  seasons,  the  failure  of  their 
crops,  and  other  disappointments,  in  all  of  which  their  faithful 
Pastor  shared  with  them  without  complaint,  being  in  labours  more 
abundant  to  supply  them  with  the  bread  of  life.  The  first  two 
or  three  years  of  Mr.  Shaw's  ministerial  life  in  Southern  Africa 
were  spent  chiefly  in  itinerating,  visiting,  and  preaching  among 
the  British  settlers  at  their  respective  locations  in  Upper  and 
Lower  Albany ;  and  he  was  favoured  to  realize  a  pleasing  mea- 
sure of  success.  These  unwearied  eflbrts  resulted  in  the  forma- 
tion of  stations,  societies,  and  Sunday  schools,  and  the  erection 
of  substantial  chapels  in  Graham's  Town,  Port  Elizabeth,  Salem, 
Bathurst,  and  other  places ;  and  thus  the  foundation  was  laid, 
broad  and  deep,  of  a  work  in  the  Eastern  Province  of  the  Cape 
Colony,  which  has  been  growing  and  expanding  ever  since. 


464       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

In  after  years,  interesting  and  prosperous  Mission  Stations 
were  established  at  TJitenhage,  Fort  Beaufort,  Heald  Town, 
Peddie,  Somerset  (East),  Newton  Dale,  Annshaw,  King  Wil- 
liam's Town,  and  other  places,  into  the  history  of  which  we 
cannot  here  enter.  On  the  return  to  England  of  the  Rev.  W. 
Shaw,  for  the  second  time,  in  1858,  he  was  succeeded  in  his 
ofRce  as  Chairman  and  General  Superintendent  by  the  Eev.  W. 
Impey,  who  still  worthily  fills  that  honourable  position.  The 
Graham's  Town  District  now  numbers  tioenty-one  Missionaries^ 
sixty  chapels,  one  Jmndred  and  twenty -eight  other  preaching -places  ^ 
and  nearly  four  thousand  church  members,  two  thousand  scholars^ 
and  nineteen  thousand  attendants  on  public  wo7'ship. 

Considering  the  character  of  Methodism,  and  the  noble  nature 
of  her  pioneer  Missionary  to  South-Eastern  Africa,  we  are  not 
surprised  to  learn  that,  from  his  first  landing  on  the  shores  of 
that  far-off  country,  Mr.  Shaw's  heart  yearned  over  the  degraded 
natives  with  whom  he  came  in  contact ;  and  he  neglected  no 
opportunity  which  presented  itself  of  instructing  the  Hottentots, 
half-castes,  and  other  coloured  persons  who  resided  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  the  respective  stations  which  he  occupied.     But 
this  could  not  satisfy  a  heart   so  large,  and  a  zeg.!  so  ardent, 
whilst  tens  of  thousands  of  dark  benighted  Kaffirs  were  dwelling 
in  the  regions  of  the  shadow  of  death,  without  any  adequate  pro- 
vision being  made  for  their  spiritual  necessities.     At  length  the 
favourable  time  came  when  all  was  quiet  and  peace  on  the  frontier, 
and  when,  with  the  sanction  of  the  Missionary  Committee  and  the 
Colonial  Government,  the  Missionary  made  his  first  tour  of  obser- 
vation into  Kaffirland,  preparatory  to  the  formation  of  the  "  first 
link  in  a  chain  of  stations"  along  the  extensive  coast  on  which  he 
had  set  his  heart  from  the  beginning.     In  these  early  efforts  to 
benefit  Kaffraria,  Mr.  Shaw  was  nobly  aided  by  Mr.  William 
Shepstone,  who  was  raised  up  from  among  the  British  settlers, 
and  called  not  only  to  preach  the  Gospel  to  his  own  countrymen 
in  the  land  of  their  adoption,  but  also  to  proclaim  the  glad  tid- 
ings of  salvation  to  the  untutored  Kaffirs  in  the  region  beyond. 
The  Mission  in  Albany  having  been  reinforced  by  the  arrival 
of  the  Eev.  S.  Kay  from  England,  Mr.  Shaw  left  that  station 
in  charge  of  his  colleague,  and  removed  to  Kaffraria  with  his 


CHAP.    III. — WESLEYAN    MISSIONS.  465 

family  in  November,  1823.  Having  fixed  upon  a  suitable 
locality  for  a  Mission  village  in  the  territory  of  tlie  paramount 
Chief  Gaika,  and  near  to  the  residence  of  Pato,  he  proceeded 
to  establish  the  first  station,  which  was  called  Wesleyville,  in 
lionour  of  the  founder  of  Methodism.  Many  changes  have 
taken  place  in  Kaffirland  since  this  humble  commencement  of 
the  good  work  ;  but  Wesleyville  still  continues  to  be  an  impor- 
tant station ;  and  it  has,  no  doubt,  been  the  spiritual  birthplace 
of  many  precious  souls. 

In  the  year  1825,  the  second  station  in  Kaffirland  Avas  com- 
menced by  Mr.  Kay,  the  Eev.  Samuel  Young  and  the  Eev.  W. 
J.  Davis  having  arrived  from  England  to  occupy  the  colonial 
Circuit.  This  new  establishment  received  the  appropriate  name 
of  Mount  Coke.  This  station  has  also  had  to  pass  through 
various  vicissitudes,  and  to  be  removed  to  a  better  site,  the  first 
locality  having  been  found  unsuitable  for  the  purposes  of  the 
Mission.  At  an  early  period  this  Mission  rose  to  a  pleasing 
state  of  prosperity  under  the  judicious  management  of  the  Eev. 
S.  Young  ;  and  after  it  had  been  desolated  by  the  Kaffir  war, 
it  was  recommenced  by  the  Eev.  "VY.  Impey.  Eor  many  years 
past  Mount  Coke  has  been  honoured  by  being  the  site  of  the 
Mission  printing  establishment,  under  the  able  superintendence 
of  the  Eev.  J.  W.  Appleyard. 

The  tJdrd  Wesley  an  Mission  station  in  Kaffirland  was  com- 
menced in  1827,  with  the  Chief  Hintza,  by  the  Eev.  W.  J. 
Shrewsbury,  who  went  out  to  Southern  Africa  after  his  return 
from  the  West  Indies.  This  establishment  was  called  Butter- 
worth,  in  memory  of  the  honoured  Treasurer  of  the  Society. 
It  has  been  repeatedly  destroyed  in  the  Kaffir  wars ;  but  it  has 
always  been  rebuilt  afterwards,  and  has  proved  a  great  blessing 
to  the  people. 

In  1829,  another  step  in  advance  was  taken  by  the  com- 
mencement, by  the  Eev.  W.  Shepstone,  of  the  fourth  Kaffir 
Mission,  called  Morley.  This  Mission  was  to  a  peculiar  tribe 
of  people  under  a  Chief  called  Dapa.  !From  their  compara- 
tively light  complexion  and  shai-p  features,  as  well  as  from  the 
traditions  preserved  among  them,  they  appear  to  have  descended 
from  some  survivors    of    the    sbip   "  Grosvenor,"  which  was 

H   H 


466        TAUT  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

wrecked  on  this  pr.rt  of  tlie  coast  of  Kaffirland,  about  the  year 
1745.  Dapa's  mother  was  said  to  have  been  a  white  woman 
of  this  party  ;  but  no  very  satisfactory  account  couhl  ever  be  col- 
lected on  the  spot  concerning  this  singular  incident.  In  the 
establishment  of  this  station,  Mr.  Shepstone  was  assisted  by 
Mr.  Eobinson,  a  pious  young  Englishman,  who  was  killed  by 
the  sudden  fall  of  a  tree  which  he  was  felling  for  timber  for  the 
Mission  buildings.  In  1865,  it  was  found  necessary  to  remove 
this  station  to  another  site,  the  former  place  having  proved  very 
unhealthy.  New  Morley  is  situated  on  a  ridge  in  the  centre 
of  a  fertile  valley,  with  a  splendid  prospect  in  every  direction. 

T\\Q,ffth  station  in  Kaffirland  was  commenced  by  the  Eev. 
R.  Haddy,  in  1830,  and  was  called  Clarkebury,  in  honour  of 
the  learned  Divine  and  Commentator.  It  is  a  remarkable  cir- 
cumstance that  the  only  two  Europeans  employed  on  our  Mis- 
sions in  Kaffirland  who  have  fallen  l)y  the  hands  of  native 
marauders,  were  both  of  them  connected  with  this  station.  The 
first  was  Mr.  Eawlins,  an  assistant,  who  was  killed  by  a  horde 
of  Eitcani  near  to  Clarkebury ;  and  the  other  was  the  Kev.  J. 
S.  Thomas,  who  was  stabbed  with  assagais  by  a  party  of  Kaffirs 
who  were  making  an  attack  upon  the  cattle  kraal. 

The  sixth  Kaffir  station  was  established  about  the  same  time 
as  Clarkebury,  in  the  country  of  the  Amampondos,  under  the  great 
Chief  Faku,  by  the  Rev.  W.  B.  Boyce,  who  had  just  arrived 
from  England,  and  who  gave  it  the  name  of  Buntingville. 
Although  this  station  is  the  most  remote  and  isolated,  it  is  the 
only  one  which  has  never  been  destroyed  by  war ;  all  the  rest 
which  we  have  named  having  been  laid  waste,  and  some  of  them 
repeatedly.  The  site  of  Buntingville  has  been  changed,  to  secure 
agricultural  advantages ;  but  it  continues  to  the  present  time  a 
centre  of  light  steadily  shining  on  the  surrounding  darkness. 

Two  other  stations  have  gro\vn  out  of  Buntingville,  one  of 
which  is  called  Shawbury,  in  honour  of  the  highly-esteemed 
General  Superintendent  for  the  time  being ;  and  the  other  has 
received  the  name  of  Palmerton,  in  memory  of  a  beloved  Mis- 
sionary now  deceased.  These  are  situated  on  the  borders  of  the 
colony  of  Natal;  and  thus  complete  the  "chain  of  stations"  on 
which  the  pioneer  Missionary  set  his  heart  when  he  first  penetrated 


CHAP.    III. — WESLETAN    MISSIOIfS.  467 

the  wilds  of  Kaffirland.  The  Christian  traveller  may  now  pur- 
sue his  journey  from  Graham's  Town  to  Natal  in  safet}^  receiv- 
ing a  welcome  greeting  at  many  a  smiling  Mission  station  on 
the  way,  which  was  not  the  case  in  former  times. 

On  returning  from  our  extensive  Missionary  tour,  along  the 
line  of  stations  which  were  first  formed  in  Kaffirland,  it  would  be 
very  pleasant,  did  our  space  permit,  to  look  in  upon  the  dear 
brethren  who  occupy  other  stations  which  have  in  the  course 
of  time  grown  out  of  those  already  named, — as  Osborne  and 
Mount  Arthur,  so  called  in  honour  of  two  highly  esteemed 
General  Secretaries  of  the  Society  ;  and  Lesseyton,  and  Queen's 
Town  and  Kamastone.  At  the  one  last  named  we  should  find 
the  venerable  W.  Shepstone,  once  the  pioneer,  but  now  the 
respected  Chairman  and  General  Superintendent  of  the  District, 
still  labouring  with  a  degree  of  energy  and  zeal  truly  surprising, 
It  must  be  very  gratifying  to  Messrs.  Shaw  and  Shepstone,  and 
to  the  iriends  of  Missions  generally,  to  know  that  the  Queen's 
Town  or  Kaffirland  District  now  numbers  ten  Mission ai'ies^ 
eifjUteen  chajjeh^  forty-Jive  other  preaching-places,  eleven  hun- 
dred church  members,  two  thousand  scholars,  and  tioelve  thou~ 
mnd  attendants  on  public  worship. 

At  the  same  time  that  the  good  work  was  thus  progressing 
in  Albany  and  in  Kaffirland,  it  was  making  its  way  in  the 
Bechuana  Country,  another  important  section  of  Southern 
Africa,  to  which  we  beg  to  call  the  attention  of  the  reader  for 
a  few  moments. 

In  the  year  1822,  the  first  attempt  was  made  to  carry  the 
Gospel  into  Bechuanaland ;  and  it  partially  iailed  in  conse. 
quence  of  the  sickness  of  the  Missionaries,  and  the  unsettled 
state  of  the  country.  As  soon,  however,  as  the  health  of  the 
Eev.  S.  Broadbent  was  in  a  measure  re-established,  he  nobly 
olfered  to  return  to  the  scene  of  his  former  efforts,  and  the 
late  Kev.  T.  L.  Hodgson  proceeded  from  Cape  Town  to  accom- 
pany him.  They  were  afterwards  joined  by  the  Rev.  J.  Arch- 
bell,  and  for  a  time  by  the  Eev.  E.  Edwards  also.  These 
devoted  servants  of  the  Lord  explored  the  country  in  various 
directions,  but  especially  to  the  eastward,  with  a  view  to  find  a 
suitable  locality  for  a  permanent  Mission,  without  approaching 
3  H  2 


468       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

too  far  to  the  west,  where  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Moffat  and  Hamil- 
ton were  engaged  in  a  similar  enterprise  in  the  service  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society.  At  length  Messrs.  Hodgson  and 
Broadbent,  after  having  been  repeatedly  thwarted  by  the  pre- 
vailing wars  among  the  natives,  were  enabled  to  commence  an 
important  Station,  at  a  place  called  "  Makwasse,"  far  up  the 
Vaal  Eiver,  with  the  Baralong  tribe  of  the  Bechuanas.  It  was 
not  long,  however,  before  the  Missionaries  and  their  people 
were  driven  away  and  scattered  by  powerful  and  hostile  native 
tribes  from  the  north.  But,  as  soon  as  an  opportunity  was 
afforded,  they  rallied  again,  and  for  more  than  twenty-five  years 
this  tribe  has  chiefly  resided  at  an  important  Mission  station 
which  has  been  established  at  a  place  called  Thaba  'Nchu,  where 
there  is  now  a  large  native  town,  with  a  population  of  nearly 
10,000, — probably  the  largest  assemblage  of  natives  in  one  spot 
in  any  part  of  Southern  Africa. 

In  addition  to  this  large  and  prosperous  station,  which  was 
the  result  of  early  struggles  and  sufferings  of  the  pioneer  Mis- 
sionaries in  Bechuanaland,  other  similar  establishments  were 
formed  on  a  smaller  scale  in  different  parts  of  the  country.  In 
their  wanderings  in  the  desert,  the  Missionaries  had  preached 
to  a  tribe  of  Hottentots  called  Korannas,  and  to  a  body  of  half- 
castes,  known  by  the  name  of  Newlanders.  As  soon  as  the  state 
of  the  country  would  admit  of  it,  these  were  collected  together, 
for  the  purpose  of  religious  instruction,  the  former  at  a  Station 
called  Plaatberg,  and  the  latter  at  Urapukani.  These  Stations, 
being  five  hundred  miles  from  Graham's  Town,  and  still  more 
distant  from  Cape  Town,  were  ultimately  formed  into  a  separate 
District, — in  connexion  with  Colesberg,  Burgher's-Dorp,  AVitte- 
bergen,  Bensonvale,  Bloem-Eontein,  Smithfield,  Fauresraith, 
and  some  other  places, — which  was  placed  under  the  care  of  the 
Hev.  E.  Giddy,  as  Chairman  and  General  Superintendent.  The 
Bechuana  District  now  numbers  7iine  Missionaries,  kvelve  cJiapels, 
ffty-nine  other  preacJdiig-places,  eiglit  hundred  and  sixty  clmrcU 
members,  fourteen  hundred  scholars,  and  Jive  thousand  seven 
hundred  attendants  on  public  tvorship. 

The  next  step  in  advance  in  the  establishment  of  Wesleyan 
Missions  in  South-Eastern  Africa  was  to  the  territory  of  Natal, 


CHAP.    III. — WESLEYAN    MISSIONS.  469 

which  has  now  become  an  important  British  Colony.  The  Eev. 
J.  Archbell  was  the  first  Missionary  to  this  country.  He  com- 
menced his  labours  in  that  distant  region  in  1841,  just  as  the 
British  Government  were  asserting  their  rights  to  the  country, 
and  sending  a  detachment  of  troops  to  preserve  order.  For 
several  years  after  this  small  beginning  the  land  was  kept  in  a 
state  of  constant  commotion  by  war,  or  the  rumours  of  war ; 
but  when  a  measure  of  peace  and  order  was  restored,  and  good 
•government  firmly  established,  the  Mission  was  reinforced  by 
the  appointment  of  the  Rev.  W.  C.  Holden,  the  Eev.  C. 
Sjjcnseley,  and  other  men  of  experience  from  England  as  well 
as  from  other  parts  of  South  Africa,  and  the  work  was  extended 
and  consolidated.  The  Eev.  Joseph  Jackson,  the  Eev.  J. 
Cameron,  and  otlier  zealous  young  Missionaries,  were  also 
raised  up  in  the  Colony  subsequently.  In  after  years  the 
colonial  department  of  the  work  was  strengthened  by  the  arrival 
from  England  of  a  number  of  Wesleyan  emigrants.  Eventually, 
important  stations  for  the  English  and  native  departments  of 
the  ]\Iission  were  established  at  Maritzberg,  the  capital,  at 
D'Urban,  the  port,  and  at  Verulam,  Indaleni,  Kwangubeni, 
Edendale,  and  some  other  places. 

In  the  year  1850,  Natal  was  formed  into  a  regular  Wesleyan 
District,  and  placed  under  the  care  of  the  Eev.  H.  Pearse ;  who, 
.after  labouring  for  several  years  as  the  respected  Chairman  and 
General  Superintendent,  was  on  the  eve  of  returning  to  his 
native  land,  when  he  was  suddenly  called  to  a  better  country. 
He  died  on  the  18th  of  February,  1862,  from  severe  injuries 
sustained  by  the  upsetting  of  a  conveyance  in  which  he  was 
travelling  to  the  port  for  the  purpose  of  embarkation  a  few 
-days  before.  On  the  return  to  England  of  the  Eev.  J.  Pilcher, 
the  immediate  successor  of  Mr.  Pearse,  the  Eev.  James  Cameron 
was  appointed  as  Chairman  and  General  Superintendent  of  the 
Natal  District,  which  now  numbers  tJdrteen  Missionaries,  twenty- 
one  chapels,  one  hundred  and  eleven  other  preaching -places,  nine 
.hundred  and  twenty  church  members,  o?ie  thousand  scholars^  and 
ten  thousand  attendants  on  puhlic  worship. 

In  our  brief  and  hasty  sketch  of  the  rise  and  progress  of 
Wesleyan  Missions  in  the  respective  Districts  of  South  Africa, 


470       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

we  must  now  return  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  properly  so 
called,  and  trace  the  circumstances  under  which  Methodism  was 
planted  there  at  a  period  anterior  to  that  at  which  the  Missions 
were  established  which  have  already  passed  \mder  review. 

Soon  after  the  Cape  Colony  passed  into  the  possession  of  the 
British  Government,  at  an  early  period  of  the  present  century, 
a  number  of  soldiers  were  sent  out  from  England  to  strengthen 
the  garrison,  among  whom  were  a  few  pious  young  men,  who 
were  deeply  aifected  with  the  moral  degradation  of  all  with 
whom,  they  came  in  contact  in  Southern  Africa.  The  most  active 
and  zealous  of  these  was  Sergeant  Kendrick,  of  the  31st  Light 
Dragoons,  who  Avas  instrumental  in  promoting  a  good  work, 
not  only  in  the  army,  but  also  among  the  civilians  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  barracks.  A  religious  society  of  seriously- 
disposed  soldiers,  and  a  few  others,  was  formed,  which  at  one 
time  numbered  one  hundred  and  twenty-nine  members.  After 
labouring  for  some  time  with  acceptance  and  usefulness  as  a 
Leader  and  Preacher,  and  fearing  that  the  work  would  decline 
on  the  anticipated  removal  of  his  regiment.  Sergeant  Kendrick, 
in  the  month  of  December,  1812,  wrote  to  England,  earnestly 
requesting  that  a  Missionary  might  be  appointed  to  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.  This  request  was  duly  considered,  and  ultimately 
complied  with ;  but  before  the  auspicious  day  arrived  the  pious 
Sergeant  had  "fought  the  good  fight"  and  "finished  his 
course,"  and  was  called  to  his  reward  in  heaven.  He  died 
happy  in  God,  on  the  18th  of  November,  1813. 

The  first  Wesleyan  Missionary  appointed  to  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope  was  the  Eev,  John  M'Kenny,  who  arrived  in  Cape 
Town  on  the  7th  of  August,  1814.  But  such  was  the  jealousy 
of  the  Government  authorities  at  that  early  period,  that  the 
Missionary  was  not  allowed  to  preach  in  the  Colony,  although 
he  produced  credentials  of  the  most  satisfactory  character.  All 
that  he  could  do  under  the  circumstances  was  to  hold  private 
meetings  for  conversation  and  prayer  with  the  pious  soldiers 
and  others,  who  had  hailed  his  arrival  with  unspeakable  joy, 
and  patiently  to  await  the  result  of  his  representations  to  the 
Missionary  Committee  in  London.  Before  the  difficulties  could 
be  removed,  Mr.  M'Kenny  was  instructed  to  proceed  to  Ceylon,, 


CHAP.    III. — WESLEYAN    MISSIO^^S.  471 

where  he  was  afterwards  made  very  useful  in  the  service  of  his 
Divine  Master. 

The  Society,  being  unwilling  to  relinquish  their  efforts  for  the 
benefit  of  Southern  Africa,  next  appointed  the  Eev.  Earnabas 
Shaw  to  attempt  the  commencement  of  a  Wesleyan  Mission  in 
the  Cape  Colony.  He  landed  in  Cape  Town,  with  Mrs.  Shaw, 
on  the  14th  of  April,  1815  ;  but,  on  presenting  his  credentials 
to  the  Governor,  he  met  with  no  better  success,  in  the  first 
instance,  than  his  predecessor.  His  Excellency  declined  to  give 
the  Missionary  permission  to  preach,  on  the  ground  that  the 
English  and  Dutch  colonists  were  provided  with  Ministers, 
whilst  the  owners  of  slaves  were  unwilling  to  have  them  reli- 
giously instructed.  But  Mr.  B„  Shaw  was  of  too  ardent  a 
nature  to  brook  delay,  and  he  ventured  to  take  the  matter  into 
his  own  hands.  He  naively  says,  "  Having  been  refused  the 
sanction  of  the  Governor,  1  was  resolved  what  to  do ;  and  com- 
menced loitJiout  it  on  the  following  Sabbath.  My  congregations, 
at  first,  y»^ere  chiefly  composed  of  pious  soldiers ;  and  it  was  in 
a  room  [hired  by  them  that  1  first  preached  Christ,  and  Him 
crucified,  in  South  Africa."  * 

The  prospect  of  usefulness  among  the  native  population,  and 
others,  of  Cape  Town  being  very  unpromising,  and  the  Mis- 
sionary's heart  being  set  upon  preaching  tlie  Gospel  to  the 
heathen,  he  resolved  to  attempt  the  establishment  of  a  Mission 
in  the  interior.  This  measure  was  hastened  by  the  representa- 
tions of  the  Eev.  Mr.  Schmelen,  who  was  on  a  visit  to  the  Cape 
from  Namaqualand,  and  who  invited  Mr.  Shaw  to  accompany 
him  on  his  return,  promising  to  aid  him  to  the  utmost  in  select- 
ing a  suitable  place  for  missionary  operations.     A  waggon  and 

*  This  is  only  one  of  many  instances  which  might  be  given  of  the  Gospel 
having  been  introduced  into  heathen  lands  mainly  by  the  instrumentality  of 
pious  British  soldiers.  AVho  can  calculate  the  importance  of  our  Army 
work  in  its  bearing  upon  the  interests  of  Foreign  Missions  ?  Since  the 
writer  has  been  engaged  in  ministering  to  the  Wesleyan  soldiers  of  Parkhurst 
Garrison,  the  truth  and  reality  of  this  connexion  has  been  impressed  upou 
liis  mind  more  and  more ;  and,  on  the  occasion  of  every  instance  of  saving 
conversion  to  God  which  he  has  been  favoured  to  witness,  he  has  cherished 
the  hope  that  something  has  been  done  thereby  towards  the  salvation  of  the 
whole  world. 


472       PAUT  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

twelve  oxen,  with  all  other  requisites,  were  accordingly  pur- 
chased ;  and,  on  the  6th  of  September,  the  Missionaries,  their 
families,  and  attendants  took  their  departure,  being  accompanied 
for  some  distance  by  a  few  friends  from  Cape  Town. 

When  the  missionary  party  had  pursued  their  toilsome  jour- 
ney for  nearly  a  month,  and  had  just  crossed  the  Elephant  river, 
on  the  4th  of  October,  by  a  remarkable  providence  Mr.  Shaw 
found  an  opening  to  a  suitable  sphere  of  labour.  He  actually 
met  with  the  Chief  of  the  Little  Namaquas,  accompanied  by 
four  men,  on  his  way  to  Cape  Town  to  seek  for  a  Christian 
teacher,  being  aware  of  the  advantages  which  other  tribes  had 
realized  by  the  reception  of  the  Gospel.  Having  heard  his 
affecting  story,  and  being  deeply  impressed  with  the  fact  that 
the  finger  of  God  was  pointing  him  in  the  right  way,  the  Mission- 
ary agreed  to  return  with  the  Chief  to  his  mountain  home,  and 
to  take  up  his  abode  with  him  and  his  people,  whilst  Mr.  Schraeleii 
pursued  his  way  to  his  own  station  in  Great  Namaquaiand. 

About  three  weeks  afterwards,  on  the  23rd,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Shaw,  with  the  Chief  and  his  party,  reached  Lily  Fountain,  on 
Khamiesberg ;  and  the  foundation  of  that  interesting  Mission 
station  was  laid,  which  from  that  day  to  this  has  continued  to 
exercise  a  most  beneficial  influence  on  all  around.  The  Mis- 
sionary first  proclaimed  to  the  wondering  natives  the  good  news 
of  salvation,  and  then  directed  his  attention  to  the  erection  of 
a  humble  dwelling,  and  a  place  of  worship ;  at  the  same  time 
instructing  the  natives  in  improved  methods  of  cultivating  the 
ground,  and  raising  themselves  in  the  scale  of  civilization. 
These  early  efforts  of  the  lonely  Missionary  were  successful, 
not  only  in  promoting  the  temporal  improvement  of  the  people, 
but  a  goodly  number  of  natives  were  ultimately  brought  to  a 
saving  knowledge  of  the  truth,  and  a  Christian  Church  was 
formed  on  a  solid  foundation.  The  accounts  wlr'ch  reached 
England,  from  time  to  time,  of  the  labours  and  adventures  of 
the  pioneer  Missionary  at  a  period  long  before  the  Triendly 
Islands,  Fiji,  and  other  interesting  scenes  of  labour  had  been 
heard  of,  produced  a  wonderful  effect ;  and  the  name  of  Barna- 
bas Shaw,  and  his  Namaqua  Mission,  became  household  words 
in  many  a  Methodist  family. 


CJTAP.    HI. — WESLEYAN    MISSIONS.  473 

In  the  early  part  of  the  year  1818,  the  Eev.  E.  Edwards 
-arrived  at  the  Cape  to  assist  Mr.  Shaw  in  his  interesting  work; 
and,  as  there  was  no  waggon  ready  to  convey  him  and  his 
baggage  to  the  scene  of  his  labours,  he  performed  the  journey 
to  Khamiesberg,  a  distance  of  nearly  four  hundred  miles,  on 
horseback, — a  feat  which  gave  good  promise  that  he  was  made 
of  the  true  missionary  metal,  which  was  amply  proved  in  after 
years.  Arrangements  were  now^  made  for  the  extension  of  the 
work  to  various  out-stations  in  the  Underveld  and  in  Bush- 
manland,  as  well  as  for  repeated  visits  to  Cape  Town  for  sup- 
plies, which  appears  to  have  been  unavoidable  at  this  early 
period. 

Tn  the  month  of  July,  181 9,  the  Mission  in  Namaqualand 
was  further  reinforced  by  the  arrival  at  Khamiesberg  of  the 
Eev.  J.  and  Mrs.  Archbell,  who  soon  afterwards  went  to  a 
place  called  Keed  Eountain,  to  commence  a  new  station.  This 
enterprise  not  answering  the  expectations  of  the  Missionaries, 
some  time  afterwards  Mr.  Archbell  made  an  experimental 
journey  of  several  hundred  miles  to  the  northward,  travelling 
through  Great  Namaqualand  and  part  of  Damaraland  to  Wal- 
vich  Bay.  Mr.  Shaw  also  paid  a  visit  to  his  friend  Mr. 
Schmelen,  at  Bethany,  in  Great  Namaqualand ;  and,  although 
the  way  did  not  open  at  that  time  for  the  establishment  of  per- 
manent stations  in  those  remote  regions,  much  valuable  inform- 
ation was  collected  in  reference  to  a  part  of  the  continent  com- 
paratively unexplored  by  Europeans. 

As  the  interesting  station  of  Khamiesberg  will  be  noticed 
again  in  the  course  of  our  narrative,  it  may  suffice  here  to 
observe  that  the  work  of  civilization  and  Christian  progress 
continued  to  advance  in  after  years,  under  the  zealous  and 
judicious  labours  of  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Edwards,  Jackson,  Bailie, 
Parsonson,  and  Godman,  and  that  it  has  exercised  a  most  bene- 
ficial influence  not  only  upon  the  residents  at  the  institution 
themselves,  but  also  upon  the  surrounding  population. 

We  must  now  direct  the  attention  of  the  reader  to  the  efforts 
made  by  the  agents  of  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society  to 
carry  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  to  the  regions  beyond  the 
Orange  Eiver,  on  the  South- Western  Coast  of  Africa,  known  as 


474       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

Great  Naraaqiialand  and  Damaraland.  When  the  p:ood  work 
had  become  firmly  established  at  Khamiesberg,  in  Little  Na- 
maqualand,  within  the  boundaries  of  the  Cape  colon}'-, .  the 
Missionaries  naturally  felt  anxious  to  advance  farther  into  the 
interior,  and  occasional  experimental  journeys  were  taken  ta 
collect  information,  as  already  stated  ;  but  nothing  more  was 
done  till  the  year  1825,  when  the  lamented  Eev.  W.  Threlfall 
and  his  companions  took  their  ill-fated  journey. 

Tt  is  not  necessary  for  our  purpose  here  to  enter  minutely 
into  the  antecedent  history  of  Mr.  Threlfall.  We  may  briefly 
remark,  however,  that  he  was  originally  designated  for  Mada- 
gascar ;  but  the  way  not  being  open  to  commence  a  Mission, 
there,  he  was  appointed  to  the  Albany  and  Kaffaria  District,  in 
Southern  Africa,  where  he  arrived  in  the  month  of  June,  1823. 
After  labouring  there  for  about  twelve  months,  he  removed 
to  the  Cape.  Just  at  that  time  the  Hon.  Captain  Owen,  E.N., 
was  about  to  proceed  with  his  expedition  to  Delagoa  Bay ;  and, 
as  he  offered  to  give  a  passage  to  a  Wesleyan  Missionary,  to  try 
an  experimental  Mission,  Mr.  Threlfall  was  allowed  to  go. 
All  the  circumstances  of  the  case  considered,  it  is  not  surprising 
that  this  feeble  attempt  of  a  lonely,  inexperienced  Missionary 
to  plant  the  Gospel  on  this  remote  part  of  the  Eastern  Coast  of 
Africa  proved  a  failure.  Mr.  Threlfall  was  taken  ill  almost 
immediately  after  his  arrival  at  Delagoa  Bay  ;  and  after  endur- 
ing discomforts  and  privations  appalling  to  contemplate,  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  a  miserable  Portuguese  settlement  for  aboufc 
ten  months,  he  returned  to  the  Cape  in  a  state  of  great  weak- 
ness and  emaciation.  The  "Nereid,"  a  South  Sea  whaler,  by 
which  he  had  obtained  a  passage,  was,  on  her  arrival  in  Table 
Bay,  immediately  put  in  quarantine,  having  had  several  deaths 
on  board  during  the  voyage ;  and  the  Missionary  might  have 
perished  in  the  "  plague  ship,"  had  not  his  friend,  the  Kev. 
J.  Whitworth,  nobly  gone  on  board,  fearless  of  danger,  to 
minister  to  his  necessities.  Soon  after  this,  Mr.  Threlfall  went 
to  Khamiesberg  to  join  Mr.  B.  Shaw,  with  the  hope  that  a 
residence  in  that  elevated  and  salubrious  situation  might  prove 
beneficial  to  his  health  . 

The  anticipations  which  were  entertained  with  reference  to 


CHAP.    III. — WESLEYAN    MISSIONS.  475 

the  young  Missionary's  health  on  his  removal  to  Little  Na- 
maqualand,  were  realized  in  a  jDleasing  measure ;  and  he  might 
have  continued  to  labour  usefully  there,  but  his  ardent  nature 
could  not  allow  him  to  rest.  He  was  anxious  to  extend  his 
labom's  beyond  other  men's  line  of  things.  In  the  following- 
year,  his  Superintendent  allowed  him  to  undertake  a  journey  to 
Great  JSTamaqualand,  in  company  with  two  Native  Teachers ; 
which  proved  to  be  his  last  effort  in  a  cause  which  he  dearly 
loved. 

It  was  about  the  end  of  June,  1825,  that  Mr.  Threlfall  left 
Kharaiesberg,  accompanied  by  Jacob  Links  and  Johannes 
Jager,  two  Native  Teachers,  who  had  volunteered  to  accom- 
pany him  on  his  hazardous  enterprise.  They  travelled,  not  in 
a  comfortable  ox-waggon,  according  to  the  plan  generally 
adopted,  but  mounted  on  the  backs  of  three  oxen  trained  for 
the  purpose,  and  had  a  few  packages  of  provisions  and  goods 
for  barter.  From  two  brief  notes  which  were  received  from 
Mr.  Threlfall,  it  appeared  that  after  crossing  the  Orange  Eiver, 
and  penetrating  some  distance  into  Great  Namaqualand,  they 
made  but  slow  progress,  six  or  seven  weeks  having  elapsed 
before  they  reached  the  Warm  Bath ;  and  that  they  met  with 
difficulties  from  want  of  water  and  the  unkindness  of  the 
natives.  After  this  nothing  was  heard  but  uncertain  rumours, 
till  it  was  proved  on  evidence  that  all  three  had  been  murdered 
by  a  party  of  natives,  for  the  sake  of  the  few  goods  they  had 
with  them. 

From  the  confession  of  the  principal  murderer,  it  appeared 
that  when  Mr.  Threlfall  and  his  companions  had  travelled  about 
ten  days  beyond  the  Warm  Bath  to  a  place  called  Kamanoup, 
where  they  obtained  some  provisions  and  a  guide,  they  were 
proceeding  on  their  journey,  when  a  plot  was  formed  for  tlieir 
destruction.  The  treacherous  guide,  named  Naugaap,  concerted 
with  two  other  Bushmen  to  murder  the  Missionary  and  his 
companions  during  the  night.  They  watched  their  opportunit}--, 
and  when  they  were  all  asleep,  fell  upon  them.  Jacob  Links 
and  Johannes  Jager  were  first  dispatched  by  the  discharge  of 
arrows,  followed  by  a  shower  of  stones.  Mr.  Threlfall  was 
awoke  from  his  slumber  by  the  noise,  and,  seeing  the  danger  to 


476        PART  III. THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

which  he  was  exposed,  fled  to  a  bush  close  by,  and  fell  upon  his 
knees.  Whilst  thus  in  the  attitude  of  prayer,  the  Missionary 
received  his  death-blow  from  a  large  stone,  which  the  principal 
culprit  threw  at  hiin,  and  which  struck  him  on  the  head.  The 
murderers  then  divided  the  pack-oxen,  the  remaining  goods,  and 
the  Missionary's  watch  and  clothes,  which  they  stripped  from 
him,  and  fled  to  their  village. 

As  scon  as  the  fact  of  the  murder  became  known,  the  murderers 
were  pursued,  apprehended,  taken  before  the  Landrost  at  Clan- 
william,  tried,  found  guilty,  and  Kamanoup,  the  principal  actor 
in  this  horrid  tragedy,  was  condemned  to  death,  and  ultimately 
executed  at  a  place  called  Silver  Fountain.  In  order  to  make  a 
deep  impression  upon  the  minds  of  the  natives,  it  was  thought 
desirable  by  the  Government  authorities  that  the  sentence  of  the 
law  should  be  carried  out  at  the  place  above  named,  near  to  the 
colonial  frontier,  and  not  far  from  the  place  where  the  murder 
was  committed,  that  the  Chief  of  the  tribe  to  which  the  culprit 
belonged,  with  his  head  people,  might  be  present  on  the  solemn 
occasion. 

As  the  Landrost  and  military  escort,  with  the  criminal,  tra- 
velled from  Clanwilliam  to  Namaqualand,  they  necessarily  went 
by  the  way  of  Khamiesberg,  the  Mission  station  from  which  Mr. 
Threlfall  and  his  companions  set  out  on  their  ill-fated  journey. 
They  arrived  at  the  institution  on  the  Saturday  night,  and 
rested  there  over  the  Sabbath. 

The  arrival  of  the  murderer  of  the  Missionaries  at  Khamies- 
berg was  an  event  of  painful  interest,  and  excited  something 
more  than  a  feeling  of  curiosity.  Having  been  securely  lodged 
during  the  night  in  the  smith's  shop, — the  only  building  which 
could  be  used  as  a  prison  on  the  occasion,  imprisonment  on  the 
institution  being  a  punishment  unknown, — the  next  morning  he 
was  brought  out  into  the  fresh  air.  As  he  sat  in  the  sun,  the 
natives  gathered  around  him.  At  first  it  was  feared  that  there 
might  be  a  display  of  revengeful  feeling  among  a  people  who 
had  so  recently  emerged  from  the  darkness  of  heathenism  ;  but 
it  was  not  so.  There  was  a  glorious  manifestation  of  Christian 
principle.  Peter,  the  brother  of  Jacob  Links,  had  previously- 
said  to  the  Missionary,  "  O,  Sir,  what  would  I  not  give  to 


CHAP.    III. — WESLEYAN    MISSIONS.  477 

find  the  man  that  murdered  my  brother !  I  would  not  shrink 
from  any  cost  or  trouble,  could  I  but  meet  him."  But  when  his 
Minister  inquired  why  he  was  so  anxious  to  see  him,  he  meekly 
replied,  "  0,  Sir,  I  would  brinj^  him  to  this  Mission  station, 
that  he  might  hear  the  word  of  God,  and  learn  the  way  of  sal- 
vation !"  And  now  when  he  saw  him,  he  spoke  to  him  words 
of  earnest  exhortation  to  seek  the  mercy  of  God  through 
Christ  Jesus.  When  old  Kedo  Links,  the  father  of  Jacob,  came 
up,  he  was  much  excited ;  but  he  only  said  to  the  murderer  of 
his  son,  "  Didst  thou  think  I  should  not  find  thee  ?  "  Among 
others  who  drew  near  was  a  sister  of  Jacob,  named  Martha, 
a  young  woman  of  sincere  and  consistent  piety.  She  sat  on  the 
ground  near  the  criminal,  and  wept  sorely.  When  able  to  con- 
trol her  emotion,  she  said,  "  Why  did  you  kill  the  Missionary  ? 
and  why  did  you  kill  my  brother?"  After  a  pause,  she  added, 
"  But  I  am  not  come  to  upbraid  you.  It  was  in  truth  a  very 
cruel  and  wicked  deed.  I  am  sorry  for  you.  I  am  come  to 
entreat  you,  as  your  time  is  short,  to  implore  God's  mercy." 
And  with  other  words  of  kind  and  earnest  exhortation,  she  urged 
him  to  improve  the  little  space  that  was  left  him  for  repentance. 
The  criminal  was  then  conducted  to  the  chapel,  where  Divine 
service  was  performed,  and  special  prayer  offered  up  to  God 
that  He  would  have  mercy  upon  his  soul ;  and  although  the  un- 
happy man  who  w^as  most  immediately  concerned  in  the  solemn 
spectacle  seemed  hardened  and  unmoved,  no  one  could  have 
looked  upon  it  without  being  deeply  affected  by  the  evidence 
which  it  afforded  of  the  transforming  power  of  Divine  grace  on 
the  native  converts,  who  showed  such  sympathy  and  pity  for  the 
man  who  had  murdered  their  relatives  and  friends. 

On  being  conducted  to  the  place  of  execution,  and  on  looking 
at  the  grave  already  dug  to  receive  his  remains,  previous  to  the 
fatal  shot  being  fired  by  the  military  escort,  the  apparent  in- 
difference of  the  murderer  gave  v/ay,  and  he  passed  from  time 
to  eternity  calling  upon  God  to  have  mercy  upon  his  soul. 

It  is  a  pleasing  fact  that,  notwithstanding  the  melancholy 
failure  of  the  first  attempt  to  plant  the  standard  of  the  cross  in 
Great  Naraaqualand,  the  noble  object  was  not  lost  sight  of  by  the 
Missionaries  ;  and  that  a  pleasing  measure  of  success  ultimately 


478        PART  III. THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

crowned  their  efforts.  On  the  11th  of  August,  1826,  the  Chief 
of  the  Bundlezwaarts,  with  ten  of  his  people  from  the  Warm 
Bath,  arrived  at  the  Mission  station  at  Khamiesberg,  having 
come  to  entreat  that  another  Missionary  would  return  with  him 
to  his  country ;  but  the  Eev.  K.  Haddy,  being  alone  on  the 
institution,  was  unable  at  that  time  to  comply  with  his  request. 
The  Chief  afterwards  visited  Cape  Town  with  the  same  object 
in  view ;  but  the  Missionaries  being  few  in  number,  he  was 
required  to  wait  a  little  longer  without  a  teacher. 

In  the  year  1832  a  Missionary  Meeting  was  held  at  Simon's 
Town,  at  which  Josiah  Nisbett,  Esq.,  of  the  Madras  Civil  Service, 
occupied  the  chair.      At  this  meeting  affecting  reference  was 
made  to  the  three  Missionary  Martyrs  of  Namaqualand,  and  to 
the  morally  degraded  and  destitute  condition  of  the  inhabitants 
of  the  interior,  when  the  Chairman  generously  offered  to  give 
the  sum  of  £200  towards  the  commencement  of  a  Wesleyan 
Mission  at  the  Warm  Bath  among  the  Bundlezwaarts,  who  were 
so  anxious  to  have  a  teacher.     At  the  same  meeting  a  zealous 
young  Missionary,   the  llev.  E.  Cook,  recently  arrived   from 
England,  nobly  offered  himself  for  this  service,  and  exclaimed, 
in  the  language  of  the  prophet,  "Here  am  I,  send  me."     The 
spontaneous  offers  of  the  money  and  of  the  man  were  both 
accepted,  and  in  a  short  time  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Cook  were  wending 
their  way  to  Great  Namaqualand.     This  attempt  to  establish  a 
Wesleyan  Mission  at  the  Warm  Bath  was  successful,  and  the 
place  received  a  new  name  in  honour  of  the  generous  patron  of 
the  enterprise.     From  that  day  to  this  it  has  appeared  on  the 
list  of  Mission  stations  as  "  Nisbett  Bath,  Great  Namaqualand." 
It  would  be  very  pleasant  for  the  writer  to  trace  in  minute 
detail  the  early  and  subsequent  history  of  this  interesting  Mis- 
sion ;  but  as  it  will  call  for  further  notice  in  the  course  of  his 
personal  narrative,  it  must  suffice  here  to  make  a  few  brief 
observations.      Mr.    Cook   continued   his   zealous   and   useful 
labours  in  connexion  with  Great  Namaqualand  for  nearly  leu 
years,  ably  assisted  during  some  part  of  the  time  by  the  Rev. 
Joseph  Tindall.     His  health  now  began  to  fail,  and  he  set  out 
on  a  journey  to  Cape  Town,  from  which  he  hoped  to  receive 
some  benefit;  but,  on  reaching  the  binks  of  the  Grange  Eiver 


CHAP.    III. WESLEYAN    3IISSI0;N'S.  479 

he  became  worse,  and  resigned  his  happy  spirit  into  the  hands 
of  God,  on  the  7th  of  March,  1843.  His  remains  were  carried 
back  to  the  Nisbett  Bath  station,  a  distance  of  about  seventy 
miles ;  and  having  attended  to  the  funeral  ceremonies  as  best 
she  could,  the  bereaved  widow,  witli  her  fatherless  children, 
proceeded  on  their  mournful  journey  to  the  Cape,  and  ultimately 
to  England. 

The  early  and  successful  labours  of  the  dear  departed  Mis- 
sionary to  spread  the  Gospel  in  Great  Namaqualand,  were  nobly 
followed  up  by  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Ridsaale,  Eailie,  Tindall,  and 
others,  who  subsequently  occupied  the  Held.  And  although 
the  work  has  been  somewhat  fluctuating  at  different  periods, 
owing  to  the  peculiar  circumstances  of  the  country  and  the 
people,  we  have  no  doubt  but  a  large  amount  of  real  spiritual 
good  has  been  effected  by  the  labours  of  the  Missionaries,  as 
many  as  five  hundred  converted  natives  having  been  sometimes 
reported  as  united  in  church  fellowship  in  connexion  with  that 
station. 

No  sooner  was  the  work  firmly  established  in  Great  Nama- 
qualand,  than  the  Missionaries,  true  to  their  great  commission, 
began  to  think  of  the  regions  beyond,  and  to  prepare  for  extend- 
ing their  labours  to  Damaraland.  This  important  measure  was 
rendered  the  more  necessary  by  the  removal  to  that  distant 
region  of  Jonker  Africaner,  and  a  part  of  his  tribe,  from 
Bleijdeverwacht, — an  out  station  of  the  Nisbett  Bath  Circuit, 
now  called  Hoole's  Fountain,  in  honour  of  the  senior  Secretary 
of  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society, — where  preaching  had  been 
commenced  some  time  before.  This  petty  Chief,  or  Captain, 
was  a  very  remarkable  character.  He  was  one  of  the  seven  sons 
of  the  notorious  freebooter,  Titus  Africaner,  U'hose  very  name 
struck  terror  through  this  part  of  the  continent  in  fontier 
times.  In  early  life  Jonker  became  the  subject  of  gracious 
influences ;  and  had  he  remained  at  the  Mission  station,  he 
might  have  been  as  pious  and  useful  as  his  brother  David  and 
some  other  members  of  his  family.  But  he  must  needs  travel 
northward,  professedly  in  quest  of  a  better  country,  although 
it  is  to  be  feared  that  he  had  an  eye  to  llie  cattle  of  the 
Damaras,  and   to  that  maurading  liic  to  which   he  afterwards 


480       PAUT  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

abandoned  himself.  His  example  was  soon  followed  by 
Ameral,  Francman,  Whitboy,  and  other  petty  Chiefs,  with 
their  small  tribes  of  people,  who  had  all  been  previously 
under  the  influence  of  the  Gospel,  from  their  occasional  con- 
tact with  the  Missionaries  and  their  people.  This  emigration 
of  several  small  tribes  of  semi-civilized  Namaquas  to  the 
borders  of  the  Damara  country  seemed  to  favour  the  idea 
that  the  Gospel  might  probably  be  introduced  through  them  to 
the  populous  regions  beyond;  for  the  hostile  attitude  which 
they  too  frequently  assumed  towards  the  aborigines  was  not 
generally  known.  The  hope  of  extending  the  work  to  Damara- 
land  was  further  encouraged  by  a  message  brought  by  Sir 
James  Alexander  to  the  Missionary  at  Nisbett  Bath,  on  his 
return  from  that  country,  to  the  effect  that  Jonker  Africaner 
was  anxious  to  have  a  Wesleyan  Missionary  stationed  with  his 
people. 

Under  these  circumstances  Mr.  Cook  set  out  on  a  journey  of 
observation  to  Damaraland  in  the  early  part  of  the  year  1842 ; 
and  on  reaching  that  distant  region,  he  found,  as  he  expected, 
that  both  Jonker  and  Ameral  were  desirous  to  have  Missionaries. 
Being  favourably  impressed  with  the  prospect  of  good,  Mr.  Cook 
promised  to  use  his  utmost  exertions  to  obtain  Missionaries  for 
Damaraland,  and  wrote  to  the  Committee  accordingly.  In  the 
mean  time  the  Kev.  Joseph  Tindall  proceeded  to  the  Damara 
Country,  and  laboured  with  a  cheering  measure  of  success  among 
Jonker's  and  Ameral's  people.  Societies  were  now  formed,  and 
out  stations  regularly  organized.  Jonker  was  seriously  impressed 
with  the  truth,  and  once  more  gave  up  his  honey-beer,  and 
became  a  total  abstainer.  Happy  would  it  have  been  for  him 
if  he  had  continued  in  this  course ;  for  it  is  to  be  feared  that 
drinking  proved  his  ruin.  In  the  following  year  Mr.  Cook 
again  visited  Damaraland  ;  but  in  the  mean  time  a  German 
Missionary  had  been  there,  and  a  feeling  of  jealousy  arose 
between  the  agents  of  the  Ehenish  and  AYesleyan  Missionary 
Societies,  the  remembrance  of  which  we  would  fain  bury  in 
oblivion ;  but  in  view  of  certain  statements  recently  published 
at  the  Cape  with  reference  to  the  commencement  of  the  Damara 
Mission,  a  passing  notice  seems  to  be  necessary.     On  reaching 


CHAP.    III. — WESLEYAN   MISSIONS.  481 

Amernl's  place  Mr.  Cook  received  a  letter  purporting  to  be  from 
Jonker  Africaner,  stating  that  lie  had  now  received  Missionaries 
from  the  Khenish  Society,  and  that  consequently  he  need  not 
trouble  himself  to  go  there.  Mr.  Cook  was  a  man  of  ardent 
temperament,  and  truly  zealous  for  the  Lord  of  Hosts  ;  and  it  is 
not  surprising  that  he  should  feel  grieved  at  being  thus  fore- 
stalled in  so  unexpected  a  manner,  after  the  toil  he  had  gone 
through,  and  the  representations  he  had  made  to  the  Committee 
in  London  on  the  subject  of  a  Mission  to  Damaraland.  Not- 
withstanding the  communication  which  he  received,  he  would 
no  doubt  have  gone  on  to  Jonker's  place  and  sifted  the  matter 
to  the  bottom,  but  he  was  taken  ill,  and  obliged  to  return  to 
Nisbett  Bath.  This  illness  terminated  in  death  shortly  after- 
wards, as  already  stated. 

A  few  months  after  this,  whilst  Mr.  Tindall  was  on  a  visit  to 
the  out  stations  of  the  Nisbett  Bath  Circuit,  accompanied  by 
Mr.  James  Morris,  he  received  a  letter  from  Jonker,  written  by 
his  own  hand,  stating  that  he  was  still  waiting  for  his  otDn 
Missionary,  and  reiterating  his  undeviating  desire  for  a  Mission- 
ary from  the  same  Society  as  those  who  were  labouring  among 
his  relatives  atBleijdeverwacht.  We  do  not  attempt  to  account 
for  the  discrepancy  between  the  two  communications  alluded 
to,  but  merely  state  the  fact,  as  it  seems  to  afford  sufficient 
ground  for  the  action  which  our  Missionaries  afterwards  took  in 
supplying  Jonker  with  the  means  of  religious  instruction. 

The  representations  made  by  the  Missionaries  in  reference  to 
the  opening  for  the  introduction  of  the  Gospel  into  Damaraland, 
produced  a  powerful  impression  in  England.  One  benevolent 
gentleman  generously  contributed  seven  hundred  pounds  to- 
wards the  enterprise ;  whilst  the  venerable  Barnabas  Shaw,  who 
had  been  some  time  in  England,  offered  to  return  to  Southern 
Africa,  to  take  a  part  in  the  good  work.  Mr.  Shaw  was  re- 
appointed to  the  Cape  accordingly,  and  arrived  in  Table  Bay  in 
November,  1843,  accompanied  by  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Eidsdale, 
J.  B.  Shaw,  and  T.  B.  Catterick.  By  the  Conference  Mr. 
Bidsdale  and  Mr.  Tindall  were  appointed  to  to  Damaraland ;  but 
ultimately  it  was  considered  best  for  Mr.  Bidsdale  to  take  the 
Nisbett  Bath  station  -,  and  that  Mr.  Haddy,  who  had  more  experi- 

I  I 


483        PART  III, — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

ence  in  the  work,  should  proceed  to  the  Damara  Country,  espe- 
cially as  he  had  generously  offered  to  do  so. 

On  the  arrival  of  Mr.  Haddy  at  Jonker's  kraal,  accompanied 
by  Mr.  Tindall,  the  whole  matter  was  explained ;  and  the  Chief 
was  left  to  decide  who  should  labour  among  his  people,  when  he 
unhesitatingly  expressed  his  preference  for  a  Wesley  an  Missionary; 
and  the  Khenish  Missionaries  were  left  to  enter  other  openings, 
of  which  there  were  many  in  the  country.  For  several  years 
afterwards  Mr.  Haddy  and  Mr.  Tindall  laboured  in  connexion 
with  the  stations  which  were  now  formed  with  Jonker's  and 
Ameral's  people,  and  with  other  wandering  tribes  on  the 
borders  of  Damaraland  ;  and  the  stations  named  Concordia, 
Wesleyvale,  and  Elephant's  Fountain,  appeared  on  the  list  of 
stations  for  some  time.  Some  lasting  good  was  no  doubt  done 
by  the  zealous  labours  of  these  men  of  God ;  but  the  work  was 
very  fluctuating,  and  the  difficulties  numerous,  arising  partly 
from  the  frequent  and  long-continued  absence  of  the  Missionaries 
from  their  stations,  and  the  time  spent  upon  the  roads  visiting 
Cape  Town  for  supplies ;  and  partly  from  the  relapse  of  the 
Chiefs  into  their  former  drinking  habits,  and  their  frequent 
attacks  upon  the  poor  Damaras,  to  steal  their  cattle,  cutting  off 
all  hope  of  extending  the  Gospel  into  the  heart  of  the  Damara 
country  by  their  aid. 

By  the  Conference  of  1850,  the  Rev.  Messrs.  Godman  and 
Thomas  were  appointed  to  stations  in  Damaraland  ;  but  on  the 
arrival  of  the  writer  in  Southern  Africa,  to  take  charge  of  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  District,  he  found  both  Mr.  Haddy  and  Mr.  Tindall 
at  the  Ciipe,  the  Damara  Mission  having  been  without  a  Mis- 
sionary for  some  time.  In  view  of  all  the  circumstances  of  the 
case,  it  appeared  absolutely  necessary  either  to  strengthen  the 
Damara  Mission,  by  the  appointment  of  several  more  men,  and 
to  carry  it  on  with  vigour,  or  to  relinquish  it  in  favour  of  the 
Bhenisli  Missionaries,  who,  it  was  understood,  were  desirous  to 
have  the  whole  country  to  themselves.  A  carefully  prepared 
estimate  of  the  expenses  necessary  for  the  undertaking  was 
accordingly  forwarded  to  the  Committee  in  London,  and  the 
case  placed  before  them  in  all  its  particulars.  We  anxiously 
awaited  the  reply  of  the  General  Secretaries.     When  it  came,  it 


CHAP.    III. WESLEYAN    MISSIONS. 

was  to  the  effect  that  the  depressed  state  of  the  Society's  funds 
would  not  admit  of  the  required  grant  for  the  recommencement 
^nd  extension  of  the  Damara  Mission ;  and  that  the  stations 
which  had  been  organized  might  be  handed  over  to  the  German 
Missionaries,  the  whole  of  our  means  being  required  for  the  support 
and  consolidation  of  our  work  in  other  parts  of  the  District.  This 
was  done  accordingly ;  but  we  entertain  the  hope  that  the  labours 
of  the  Wesley  an  Missionaries  were  not  in  vain  in  Damaraland. 

We  must  now  request  the  attention  of  the  reader  to  a  few 
particulars  connected  with  the  commencement  and  early  history 
of  our  Mission  work  in  Cape  Town  and  on  the  neighbouring 
stations.  On  the  departure  of  Mr.  B.  Shaw  for  Namaqualand, 
in  1815,  the  few  pious  soldiers  and  others  who  had  been  brought 
to  a  knowledge  of  the  truth,  met  together  for  prayer  and  mutual 
edification,  as  they  had  opportunity ;  and  whenever  a  Missionary 
arrived  from  England,  or  visited  the  colony  from  the  interior, 
he  ministered  to  them  the  word  of  life  during  his  stay,  in  a 
private,  quiet  way ;  and  no  notice  was  taken  of  it  by  the  Govern- 
ment authorities.  At  length,  prejudice  gave  way,  every  legal 
hindrance  was  removed;  and,  in  1820,  the  Eev.  T.  L.  Hodgson 
was  sent  from  England  to  establish  a  regular  Mission  in  Cape 
Town.  On  his  arrival,  he  found  the  work  already  commenced. 
Whilst  on  a  visit  from  the  interior,  Mr.  Edwards  had  commenced 
preaching,  and  opened  a  Sunday  school  for  the  children  of  slaves, 
and  such  of  the  ignorant  adults  of  the  same  class  as  could  be 
induced  to  attend,  in  a  large  store-room  which  he  had  hired  for 
the  purpose.  On  the  return  of  Mr.  Edwards  to  Namaqualand, 
Mr.  B.  Shaw  was  instructed  to  aid  Mr.  Hodgson  for  a  time,  till 
the  Mission  should  be  permanently  established.  Having  pur- 
chased suitable  premises,  and  fitted  them  up  as  a  place  of  wor- 
ship and  school-house,  at  an  expense  of  upwards  of  six  hundred 
pounds,  most  of  which  was  raised  by  subscription  on  the  spot, 
the  building  was  duly  opened  for  Divine  service  on  the  16th  of 
June,  1821,  when  the  Eev.  Dr.  Philip,  of  the  London  Missionary 
Society,  preached  in  the  afternoon,  from  John  xvii.  31 ;  and  the 
Eev.  Mr.  Smith,  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church,  in  the  evening, 
from  Haggai  ii.  9.  The  collections  at  the  opening  services 
amounted  to  thirty  pounds. 

2  I  2 


484       PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

For  several  years  the  Cape  Town  station  was  occupied  chiefly 
by  the  Eev.  Messrs.  B.  Shaw  and  T.  L.  Hodgson,  with  the 
■exception  of  the  intervals  during  which  the  one  visited  Nama- 
qualand,  and  the  other  the  Bechuana  Country.  On  different 
•occasions,  however,  the  congregations  were  favoured  with  the 
valuable  services  of  the  Kev.  Messrs.  Edwards,  A.rchbell,  Whit- 
worth,  Cameron,  Shrewsbury,  Cook,  and  others,  as  they 
sojourned  for  a  time  at  the  Cape,  in  passing  to  and  from  their 
more  distant  stations.  The  work  having  been  extended  to 
Wynberg  and  Simon's  Town,  where  substantial  chapels  were 
built,  in  1826  the  Eev.  E.  Snowdall  was  sent  out  from  England 
to  labour  at  the  Cape.  He  was  a  young  man  of  much  promise,  and 
for  two  or  three  years  w^as  made  very  useful ;  but  his  course  was 
soon  run.  He  died  at  Graham's  Town  on  the  •24th  of  March,  1831. 

In  the  year  1827,  the  Eev.  B.  Shaw  and  his  family  paid  a 
visit  to  England ;  and  a  new  and  larger  chapel  in  Cape  Town, 
having  become  necessary,  Mr.  Shaw  received  many  contributions 
towards  its  erection,  during  his  absence  from  the  colony.  Mr. 
Shaw  returned  to  the  Cape  again  in  1829  ;  and  the  new  chapel 
in  Burg  Street,  having  been  completed,  was  opened  for  Divine 
service  on  the  13th  of  April,  1831,  when  the  Eev.  S.  Kay,  who 
•was  about  to  embark  for  England,  preached  in  the  morning,  and 
Mr.  Shaw  in  tbe  evening.  The  Mission  having  been  strength- 
ened by  the  arrival  of  the  Eev.  James  Cameron,  from  England, 
the  work  was  extended  to  Stellenbosch,  Somerset  (West),  Klip 
Eontein,  and  other  places,  some  of  which  have  since  become 
important  central  stations ;  and,  although  the  progress  of  the 
Mission  was  not  rapid,  every  year  witnessed  accessions  to  the 
church,  and  the  Missionaries  were  encouraged  to  persevere  in 
their  labours. 

The  Eev.  T.  L.  Hodgson,  having  spent  nearly  five  years  in 
England,  returned  to  the  Cape  in  the  month  of  January,  1836  ^ 
and  entered  upon  his  duties  Avith  his  wonted  zeal  and  earnest- 
ness. A  second  place  of  worship  being  required  in  Cape  Town 
for  the  special  use  of  the  native  congregation,  as  well  as  for 
school  purposes,  Mr.  Hodgson  immediately  set  about  the  work, 
and  the  Sydney  Street  chapel  was  erected  accordingly.  It  was 
opened  for   Divine  service  in   1837,  when  the  Eev.  William 


CHAP.    III. — WESLEYAN    MISSIONS.  485 

Shaw,  who  had  just  arrived  from  England,  and  was  on  his  way 
to  Graham's  Town,  and  the  Rev.  Barnabas  Shaw,  both  preached 
on  the  occasion.*  Almost  immediately  after  this,  Mr.  B,  Shaw 
embarked  for  England  for  the  second  time.  After  six  years 
spent  in  his  native  country,  in  1843  the  veteran  Missionary 
again  returned  to  the  scene  of  his  former  labours,  to  spend  the 
remainder  of  his  days  in  doing  good  among  a  people  who  were 
still  dear  to  him. 

On  the  departure  of  Mr.  B.  Shaw  for  England,  in  1837,  Mr. 
Hodgson  was  appointed  as  his  successor  in  the  important  office 
•of  Chairman  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  District.  This  office 
he  worthily  fulfilled  as  long  as  he  lived,  notwithstanding  the 
return  of  Mr.  Shaw,  as  already  stated ;  and  he  was  in  labours 
more  abundant.  Mr.  Hodgson  was  a  man  of  robust  frame  of 
body,  as  well  as  of  a  large  and  benevolent  heart ;  but  his  long 
and  arduous  course  of  missionary  labour  in  Africa,  together  with 
some  peculiar  trials  which  he  was  called  to  pass  through,  preyed 
upon  his  constitution,  and,  in  the  year  1849,  his  health  began 
seriously  to  fail.  Instead  of  seeking  for  relief  by  a  return  to 
his  native  country,  as  strongly  advised  to  do,  he  lingered  at  his 
post  of  duty,  and  gradually  sank  to  rise  no  more  in  this  world. 
He  died  very  happy  in  God,  at  Cape  Town,  on  the  21st  of  June, 
1850,  in  the  sixty -third  year  of  his  age,  and  thirty-fifth  of  his 
ministry. 

*  These  two  devoted  men  were  not  brothers,  as  erroneously  stated  by  Dr. 
Stevens,  in  his  "  History  of  Methodism,"  and  by  some  other  American 
-writers.  Neither  were  they  related  to  each  other  in  any  way  by  the  ties  of 
nature.  They  were  simply  honoured  Missionaries  of  the  Cross,  engaged  at 
the  same  time  on  different  parts  of  the  great  continent  of  Africa.  Barnabas 
Shaw  was  the  pioneer  Wesleyan  Missionary  at  the  Cape  and  in  Namaqua- 
land,  and  ^Yillianl  Shaw  was  the  Apostle  of  Albany  and  Kaffraria.  Their 
praise  is  in  all  the  churches,  at  home  and  abroad,  and  their  names  will  long 
be  held  in  grateful  and  affectionate  remembrance.  The  one  first  named  was 
■called  to  liis  reward  several  years  ago,  whilst  the  other,  after  labouring  with 
-acceptance  in  several  Circuits  at  home,  has  been  deservedly  promoted  to  the 
honourable  position  of  President  of  the  British  Wesleyan  Conference. 


486       PAET  III.— THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 


CHAPTER  lY. 

ENTRANCE  ON  PERSONAL   MISSION. 

Third  Embarkation — Driven  back  by  a  Storm— The  Isle  of  Wijjht — 
The  Voyage — Arrival  at  the  Cape — Fellow  Labourers — Kaffir  War — 
Missionary  Meeting — District  Meeting — Ministers'  Breakfast  Meeting — 
Missionary  Visitors — Progress  of  the  Work — Enlargement  of  Burg  Street 
Chapel — Mission  Stations  visited — English  Work  at  Burg  Street — 
Dutch  Work  at  Syuuey  Street — Hope  Street— Sunday  School  Unioa 
— Rondebosch — Newlands —  Clareraont — Wynberg  — Diep  Eiver — 
Simon's  Town — Elsey's  River — Somerset  (West) — Terrington  Grove — 
Strand — Stellenbosch — Raithby. 

It  was  at  a  somewhat  eventful  period  of  the  history  of  our 
South  African  Missions  that  I  and  my  dear  wife  were  requested 
to  go  abroad  for  the  third  time;  and  at  the  Conference  of  1850' 
I  received  an  appointment  as  the  Chairman  and  General  Super- 
intendent of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  District,  in  the  place  of 
the  Eev.  T.  L.  Hodgson,  who  at  the  last  advices  was  said  to  be 
dangerously  ill,  and  who  soon  afterwards  finished  his  course,  as 
stated  at  the  close  of  the  last  chapter.  I  had  laboured  for  two 
years,  with  much  comfort,  among  a  loving  people  as  the  Superin- 
tendent of  the  Newport  Circuit,  Isle  of  Wight,  and  had  con- 
sented to  remain  for  a  third  year,  when  the  call  to  foreign 
service  so  unexpectedly  came  to  hand.  On  looking  at  it  from 
every  point  of  view,  it  appeared  to  be  providential ;  and  we  had, 
therefore,  nothing  to  do  but  meekly  submit  to  the  will  of  God, 
especially  as  I  remembered  that  ever  since  the  Lord  redeemed 
my  life  from  destruction  in  such  a  remarkable  manner,  His 
vows  were  upon  me  to  live,  and  labour,  and  suffer,  and  die, 
where,  and  when,  and  how.  He  in  His  infinite  wasdom  might 
appoint.  We,  therefore,  cheerfully  acquiesced  in  the  arrange- 
ment, and  began  to  prepare  for  our  new  scene  of  labour. 

On  Tuesday,  the  19th  of  November,  Mrs.  Moister  and  I  met 
the  Eev.  John  and  Mrs.  Thomas,  who  were  to  be  our  fellow- 


CHAP.  IV. — ENTRANCE  ON  PERSONAL  MISSION.   487 

voyagers,  at  the  Mission-House  ;  and  having  been  commended  to 
God  in  prayer,  by  our  friend  the  Eev.  Dr.  Hoole,  we  left 
London,  by  the  Black  wall  Eailway,  to  join  a  Thames  steamer, 
accompanied  by  Messrs.  Adams,  Hebb,  Eotherham,  and  other 
friends.  On  arriving  at  Gravesend,  we  immediately  went  on 
board  the  ship  "Emperor,"  by  which  our  passage  was  taken 
to  the  Cape,  and  which  we  found  lying  at  anchor  in  the  river. 
After  uniting  in  prayer  and  conversation  for  a  short  time  in  our 
cabin,  our  friends  took  leave  of  us ;  and  having  watched  them 
with  peculiar  feelings  till  they  reached  the  shore,  and  exchanged 
the  last  signals  of  friendly  recognition  as  long  as  they  were  in 
sight,  we  went  below  to  put  little  matters  right  in  our  berths, 
preparatory  to  our  voyage.  In  the  evening  Mr.  Thomas  and  I 
went  on  shore  to  a  Missionary  Meeting,  which  we  heard  was 
being  held  in  the  Wesleyan  chapel  at  Gravesend.  We  were 
received  with  a  hearty  welcome  by  the  Ministers  and  friends 
who  were  assembled  together.  The  Eev.  Messrs.  B.  Gregory 
and  M.  Gillings  were  present  as  the  deputation  from  the  Parent 
Society ;  and,  as  they  very  kindly  made  way  for  us,  we  had  an 
opportunity  of  once  more  pleading  the  cause  of  Missions  before 
we  again  bade  adieu  to  our  native  land.  The  interest  of  the 
occasion  was  enhanced,  not  only  by  the  presence  of  two  Mis- 
sionaries, who  had  spent  many  years  in  foreign  lands,  and  were 
embarking  again  in  the  glorious  enterprise,  but  also  by  the 
reference  which  I  was  led  to  make  to  the  circumstances  con- 
nected with  my  first  going  out,  and  to  the  happy  Sabbath  which 
I  spent  in  the  same  chapel  nineteen  years  before,  as  noticed  at 
page  122  of  these  Memorials.  Many  changes  had  taken  place 
in  the  interim;  but  there  remained  a  few  old  disciples  who  remem- 
bered my  former  visits,  and  who,  I  believe,  united  fervently  in 
supplication,  when  we  were  commended  to  God  in  prayer  at  the 
close  of  the  meeting  by  the  Eev.  Mr.  Tippett,  previous  to  return- 
ing to  our  ship  in  the  river. 

About  ten  o'clock  the  next  morning.  Captain  Day  and  the 
remaining  passengers  having  come  on  board,  Ave  weighed  anchor, 
and  proceeded  down  the  river  with  the  ebbing  tide  and  a  fair 
wind.  On  Thursday,  we  passed  the  Downs,  where  our  pilot  left 
us,  by  whom  we  sent  letters  to  our  friends.     The  motion  of  the 


488       PAUT  Iir. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

vessel  was  now  considerable,  and  most  of  the  passengers  were 
prostrated  by  sea  sickness.  Through  mercy,  I  was  as  usual 
unaffected  with  this  painful  malady,  and  my  dear  wife  suffered 
less  than  on  former  occasions.  On  Priday  we  were  off  Beachy 
Head ;  and  on  Saturday  we  passed  the  Isle  of  Wight,  of  which 
•we  had  a  fine  view,  and  were  led  to  think  and  speak  of  dear 
friends  on  shore  with  whom  we  had  often  held  sweet  counsel, 
and  walked  to  the  house  of  God  in  company ;  but  whom  we 
could  scarcely  hope  to  meet  again  in  this  world. 

Hitherto  the  wind  had  been  favourable,  and  sailing  as  pleasant 
as  could  be  expected,  in  the  month  of  November,  in  the  English 
Channel;  but  on  Saturday  evening  the  wind  changed  to  the 
north-west.  In  the  course  of  the  night  it  increased  in  violence, 
and  before  morning  we  were  overtaken  by  one  of  the  most 
terrific  gales  I  ever  witnessed.  During  the  whole  day,  on  Sun- 
day, the  storm  continued  with  awful  fury,  the  sea  constantly 
breaking  over  the  ship  in  the  most  appalling  manner.  Three  sails 
were  torn  to  ribbons  before  they  could  be  taken  in,  the  wheel  by 
which  the  vessel  was  steered  was  broken  to  pieces,  and  several 
trusses  of  hay  for  the  sheep  were  washed  overboard.  On  going 
up  on  deck,  I  looked  upon  a  scene  of  awful  grandeur :  the  sea 
was  literally  running  iuountains  high ;  our  noble  ship  was  com- 
pletely at  the  mercy  of  the  waves,  whilst  the  Avind  whistled 
through  the  rigging  in  pensive  moans,  which  were  suggestive  of 
feelings  of  despondency.  Everything  on  deck  was  in  a  state  of 
wild  confusion.  Our  noble  Captain  and  brave  seamen  were 
doing  everything  that  well  directed  skill  and  persevering  effort 
could  achieve,  for  the  safety  of  the  vessel  and  the  passengers.  As 
the  waves  broke  over  the  ship,  the  water  flowed  into  the  cabin ; 
and  as  the  vessel  was  sometimes  almost  on  her  beam  ends,  boxes 
and  other  fixtures  were  breaking  loose  from  their  fastenings,  and 
the  noise  and  commotion  were  frightful.  All  that  we  could  do 
was  to  endeavour  to  hold  on,  and  to  be  earnest  in  prayer  and 
supplication  to  Him  who 

"  Rides  upon  the  stormy  sky, 
And  calms  the  roaring  sea." 

In  these  religious  exercises  the  passengers,  about  a  dozen  in 
number,  readily  joined  us ;  for  fear  and  dismay  sat  upon  every 


CHAP.   IV — ENTRANCE    ON    PERSONAL    MISSION.        489 

-coiiiitenance.  Having-  placed  ourselves  round  tlie  cuddy  table, 
which  was  well  secured,  and  to  which  we  could  cling  with  con- 
:fidence  as  tlie  vessel  pitched  and  rolled,  we  spent  many  hours  in. 
reading  suitable  portions  of  Scripture  and  select  hymns,  and  in 
prayer  and  exhortation.  In  these  exercises  Mr.  Thomas  and 
I  relieved  each  other,  as  in  turns  we  became  exhausted ;  for  the 
passengers,  both  ladies  and  gentlemen,  were  incessant  in  their 
requests  that  we  would  continue  to  call  upon  God,  that  He  might 
save  us.  As  the  gale  continued  with  unabated  fury  during  the 
night,  we  got  but  little  rest ;  and  altogether  our  first  Sabbath 
^t  sea  on  this  occasion  was  a  day  long  to  be  remembered. 

On  Monday,  the  25th,  the  storm  still  continued  with  scarcely 
•any  abatement ;  but  a  temporary  tiller  having  been  rigged  to  steer 
the  ship,  her  motion  was  less  violent.  As  we  had  six  sailors  dis- 
^abled  from  severe  bruises  and  exposure,  one  having  fallen  from 
aloft,  and  as  we  found,  also,  that  a  considerably  quantity  of  ouv 
live  stock  had  perished  in  the  cold  and  wet,  the  Captain 
deemed  it  necessary  to  run  into  port  the  first  favourable  oppor- 
tunity, to  repair  damages,  and  prepare  for  sea  again.  Towards 
•evening  the  gale  moderated  a  little,  for  which  we  felt  truly 
thankful;  and,  as  we  had  been  driven  back  directly  up  the 
Channel,  all  the  time  that  the  storm  had  continued,  we  looked 
out  anxiously  for  the  sight  of  land  on  the  English  or  French 
'Coast,  but  were  disappointed. 

On  the  following  day  the  wind  became  still  more  moderate  ; 
^nd  when  we  got  a  sight  of  land,  we  found  that  we  were  off 
Beachy  Head.  Tuesday  was  spent  in  beating  up  for  the  Isle  of 
Wight ;  and  at  night  we  were  able  to  come  to  anchor  off  Bem- 
bridge  Point.  We  got  under  weigh  early  on  the  following 
morning,  and  about  noon  we  came  to  anchor  off"  Cowes.  We 
•went  on  shore  immediately,  and  met  with  a  hearty  reception 
from  my  former  esteemed  colleague,  the  Eev.  John  Parry,  his 
^amiable  family,  and  other  friends.  Finding  that  a  day  or  two 
-at  least  would  be  required  for  repairing  the  vessel,  we  hired  a 
conveyance  and  drove  over  to  Newport  in  the  afternoon ;  and 
thus  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  my  old  friend  and  successor^ 
the  Eev.  John  Wood,  who,  with  Mrs.  Wood,  and  many  other 
vdear  friends,  was  truly  glad  to  see  us,  after  our  providential 


490       PART  Til. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

deliverance  from  the  clangers  of  the  deep.  We  gratefully- 
accepted  the  kind  invitation  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Charles  Dore  to  a 
lodging  for  the  night  at  their  hospitable  mansion  ;  and  the  next 
day,  after  calling  upon  as  many  friends  as  our  limited  time 
would  permit,  we  returned  to  Cowes  in  Mr.  W.  B.  Groves's 
carriage,  which  he  kindly  placed  at  our  disposal,  accompanied 
by  the  Eev.  Mr.  Wood  and  Mrs.  Wood,  Mrs.  W.  B.  Groves, 
Mrs.  Joseph  Groves,  and  Miss  Wavell.  These  dear  friends, 
together  with  the  Eev.  J.  Parry  and  Mrs.  J.  Pinhorn,  kindly 
went  with  us  on  board  the  "Emperor;"  and,  after  having 
viewed  the  ship,  and  taken  some  refreshment,  they  united  with 
us  in  singing  a  hymn  and  in  prayer  to  God,  then  took  an 
affectionate  leave  of  us,  and  returned  to  the  shore,  whilst  we 
prepared  to  put  to  sea  once  more. 

Early  on  the  morning  of  Saturday,  the  30th,  we  weighed 
anchor  again,  and  passed  through  the  Needles  with  a  gentle- 
breeze  in  our  favour.  When  we  were  off  Yarmouth,  my  friend. 
Captain  Webb,  came  on  board  to  say  farewell ;  and  when  we 
were  fairly  outside,  the  pilot,  Mr.  Davis  of  Sea  View,  left  us, 
by  whom  we  again  sent  letters  to  our  friends,  and  by  whom  I 
also  acknowledged  the  receipt  of  a  box  of  valuable  pre- 
sents for  our  schools  from  the  friends  at  Sea  View  and  St. 
Helen's,  which  had  come  to  hand  whilst  the  ship  was  in  harbour. 

When  we  got  out  to  sea  this  time,  we  met  with  nothing  more 
to  impede  our  progress ;  although  the  first  part  of  our  voyage 
was  somewhat  stormy  and  boisterous,  especially  while  crossing 
the  Bay  of  Biscay.  On  Monday,  the  16th  of  December,  we 
spoke  the  barque  "Orient,"  twenty-one  days  from  England, 
bound  for  Goree.  The  Captain  told  us  that  he  was  in  the  Mar- 
gate Roads  during  the  fearful  gale  of  Sunday,  the  24th  of 
November,  and  that  before  his  departure  one  vessel  came  in 
water-logged,  and  another  dismasted,  whilst  numerous  wrecks 
had  occurred  along  the  coast ;  so  that  we  had  additional  cause 
for  gratitude  to  God  for  our  preservation.  "V\'hilst  we  were 
sitting  at  dinner  in  the  cuddy  the  same  day,  a  heavy  block  fell 
from  aloft  on  the  skylight  above  our  heads,  and  shivered  the 
thick  plate-glass  of  the  sky-light  to  pieces,  one  of  which  fell  on 
the  table  close  to  the  Captain  and  Mrs.  Moister,  breaking  their 


CHAP.  IV. — ENTKANCE  ON  PERSONAL  MISSION.    491 

plates  before  them,  and  yet,  througli  mere}'',  no  one  received 
any  injury. 

On  entering:  the  tropics,  and  coming  within  the  influence  of 
the  trade-winds,  sailing  became  very  pleasant ;  and  we  were 
able  to  hold  our  religious  services  with  regularity  and  comfort. 
Mr.  Thomas  and  I  preached  and  read  prayers  alternately  on  the 
Sabbath  and  on  Christmas  Day ;  and  we  were  pleased  to  see 
the  passengers  and  seamen  attending  with  devout  solemnity. 
We  had  also  in  our  own  cabin,  for  our  own  edification,  weekly 
class-meetings  and  prayer-meetings,  which  were  very  profit- 
able ;  and,  with  solemn  prayer  and  praise,  we  held  our  own 
watch-night  at  the  close  of  the  year,  whilst  our  gallant  ship  was 
ploughing  her  way  through  the  mighty  deep. 

On  Monday,  the  6th  of  January,  1851,  having  crossed  the 
Equator  during  the  night,  we  had  a  visit  from  old  Neptune  and 
his  wife.  The  foolish  ceremony  of  shaving  all  who  had  never 
before  crossed  the  Line  was  duly  observed ;  while  the  god  of  the 
deep  and  his  consort  sat  in  state  in  a  car,  in  which  they  had 
been  previously  dragged  round  the  deck  of  the  ship.  The  pas- 
sengers who  wished  to  be  exempt  of  course  paid  the  fine ;  and 
the  affair  passed  off  without  any  unpleasant  consequences. 

Nothing  further  w^orthy  of  notice  occurred  during  the 
remainder  of  the  passage,  our  time  being  pleasantly  spent  in 
reading  and  conversation,  and  in  occasionally  exchanging  sig- 
nals with  a  passing  vessel,  till  Monday,  the  3rd  of  February, 
when  we  once  more  heard  the  cheering  sound  of  "  Land  a- 
head  !  "  It  proved  to  be  the  grand  promontory  of  Southern 
Africa,  with  Table  Mountain  in  dim  outline,  only  to  be  dis- 
cerned by  the  practised  eye.  We  arose  early  on  the  following 
morning,  and  on  going  upon  deck,  we  had  a  fine  view  of  Table 
Mountain,  and  the  minor  elevations  called  the  Devil's  Peak,  the 
Lion's  Head,  the  Lion's  Eump,  and  Green  Point,  with  nume- 
rous farms  and  dwelling-houses  stretching  along  the  shore. 
The  prospect  was  of  a  most  inteersting  and  romantic  character, 
and  fully  met  our  preconceived  ideas  of  the  boldness  and  grandeur 
of  African  scenery.  About  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we 
entered  Table  Bay,  and  came  to  anchor,  with  Cape  Town  full 
in  our  view.     A  strong  south-east  wind  was  blowing,  and  the 


492        PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

admonitory  white  cloud,  called  the  "  table  cloth,"  was  spread 
over  Table  Mountain,  indicating  the  probability  of  its  increas- 
ing in  violence;  the  Rev.  B.  Ridsdale  had  therefore,  with  his 
usual  forethought,  sent  olf  a  boat  with  a  note  advising  us  to 
land  without  delay,  if  possible.  We  did  so  at  considerable 
risk,  and  with  some  discomfort ;  the  waves  frequently  dashing 
over  the  boat  as  we  sailed  along.  Through  a  kind  and  gra- 
cious Providence,  we  reached  the  shore  in  safety,  and  found 
Mr.  Eidsdale  and  Mr.  Duffett  waiting  for  us  on  the  wharf. 
We  immediately  accompanied  them  to  the  Mission-House,  in 
Burg  Street,  where  we  met  with  a  cordial  reception  from  Mrs, 
Eidsdale  and  family.  In  passing  up  the  streets  of  Cape  Town 
we  had  to  encounter  clouds  of  dust  and  sand ;  and  altogether 
our  first  impressions  of  the  "  Cape  of  Storms  "  were  not  very 
favourable  ;  but  they  improved  afterwards,  for  we  found  that  it 
was  not  always  stormy  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 

On  the  morning  of  Wednesday,  the  5th,  I  took  a  walk  before 
breakfast,  and  had  a  more  favourable  view  of  Cape  Town,  the 
south-east  wind  having  subsided ;  and  I  was  much  pleased  with 
the  appearance  of  the  place.  In  the  afternoon,  the  Eevs.  Bar- 
nabas Shaw,  Eichard  Haddy,  and  Matthew  Godman,  with  their 
wives,  came  in  from  Eondebosch  and  Wynberg  to  welcome  our 
arrival.  We  had  soon  afterwards  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the 
Eevs.  Edward  Edwards,  Eichard  Eidgill,  Joseph  Tindall, 
John  A.  Bailie,  and  Joseph  Jackson,  who,  together  with  my 
esteemed  colleague,  the  Eev.  Benjamin  Eidsdale,  and  my 
beloved  fellow  voyager,  the  Eev.  John  Thomas,  entered  with 
me  into  the  various  matters  pertaining  to  the  interests  of  the 
District,  with  a  cordiality  and  friendliness  which  at  once  claimed 
my  confidence,  and  afforded  me  much  comfort  at  a  time  when 
the  responsibility  of  my  position  in  a  new  sphere  of  duty 
heavily  weighed  upon  my  spirit.  With  most  of  these  dear 
brethren,  and  with  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Cameron,  Barber,  Parson- 
son,  and  Priestley,  who  afterwards  joined  us,  I  spent  several 
happy  years  of  missionary  labour ;  and  I  look  back  with  much 
pleasure  on  the  harmony  and  good  feeling  which  generally  pre- 
vailed in  our  counsels,  and  on  the  measure  of  success  with 
which  the  great  Head  of  the  Church  was  pleased  to  crown  our 
united  efforts. 


CHAP.  IV. — ENTRANCE  ON  PERSONAL  MISSION.   493 

We  had  scarcely  landed  on  the  shores  of  x^frica  when  we  were 
informed  that  there  had  been  a  serious  outbreak  among  the 
Kaffirs  on  Christmas  Day,  and  that  the  whole  of  the  frontier  of 
the  colony  was  involved  in  war.  This  intelligence  was  rendered 
the  more  appalling  by  the  report  that  a  large  number  of  Hotten- 
tots in  tlie  Kat  Kiver  Settlement,  and  other  natives,  had  in  this 
instance  united  with  the  Kaffirs  against  the  English.  Although 
the  metropolis  was  so  far  distant  from  the  scene  of  contest, 
much  anxiety  and  commotion  existed  at  the  time  of  our  arrival. 
All  the  troops  had  been  dispatched  to  Kaffirland,  and  levies 
were  being  made  to  raise  a  strong  m.ilitia  force  to  aid  in  the 
defence  of  the  Colony.  Those  who  had  faith  in  the  Providence 
of  God  betook  themselves  to  prayer;  and  such  indeed  was  the 
general  opinion  that  prevailed  on  this  subject,  that  a  day  had 
been  appointed  by  the  Governor  as  a  day  of  public  humiliation 
and  prayer  for  the  termination  of  the  Kaffir  war.  This  was 
Friday,  the  7tli  of  February,  two  days  after  our  arrival.  "We 
had  a  prayer-meeting  in  the  forenoon  in  Wesley  Chapel,  and 
]\Ir.  Ridsdale  preached  an  impressive  sermon  in  the  evening. 

On  Sunday,  the  8th,  I  preached  for  the  first  time  in  Wesley 
Chapel  to  a  respectable  and  intelligent  congregation,  whilst  Mr. 
Eidsdale  officiated  at  the  native  chapel  in  Sydney  Street,  in 
Dutch.  In  the  afternoon  I  drove  out  to  Rondebosch,  where  I 
preached  a  missionary  sermon  in  the  evening.  On  the  follow- 
ing day  the  public  Annual  Missionary  Meeting  was  held  at  the 
same  place,  when  I  had  the  pleasure  of  uniting  with  the  Eev. 
Messrs.  Shaw,  Edwards,  Haddy,  Ridgill,  Eidsdale,  Godman, 
and  Thomas,  in  pleading  the  cause  of  Missions  ;  and  the  spirit 
of  missionary  zeal  and  liberality  which  I  witnessed,  both  on  the 
part  of  the  Ministers  and  the  people  assembled,  was  truly  cheer- 
ing, and  beautifully  exemplified  the  fact  that  Methodism  is  the 
same  all  the  world  over. 

On  Tuesday,  the  10th,  we  held  a  District  Meeting,  which  had 
been  adjourned  from  the  regular  annual  assembling  of  the  breth- 
ren some  time  before,  for  the  consideration  of  some  important 
matters  which  awaited  my  arrival.  The  principal  of  these  was 
the  somewhat  perplexing  question  of  the  Damara  Mission, 
which  was  dealt  with  in  the  manner  already  stated.     All  the 


494       PAUT  III. THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

brethren  iu  the  District  were  present  at  this  meeting,  except 
three,  who  had  not  yet  arrived  from  the  interior;  and  they  were 
perfectly  unanimous  in  their  views  of  the  respective  matters 
brouglit  before  them.  The  prospective  stations  were  arranged 
apparently  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  parties  concerned,  most  of 
the  brethren  continuing  in  the  spheres  of  labour  which  they  had 
previously  occupied,  Mr.  Thomas  going  to  Simon's  Town,  where 
a  resident  Minister  was  much  required ;  whilst  the  requests  of 
Mr.  Jackson  to  remove  to  Natal  as  a  Supernumerary,  and  Mr. 
Haddy  to  return  to  England,  after  a  long  and  honourable  period 
of  service  in  South  Africa,  w^ere  duly  commended  to  the  kind 
consideration  of  the  Committee. 

Although  much  fatigued  with  the  exercise  involved  in  the 
various  matters  of  business  which  had  required  my  attention 
every  day  and  every  hour  since  our  arrival,  to  say  nothing  of 
the  labour  connected  with  the  landing  and  unpacking  of  our 
luggage,  I  preached  on  Wednesday  evening,  the  11th,  at  Burg 
Street  chapel,  to  an  interesting  congregation ;  and  on  tiie  fol- 
lowing Sabbath  I  preached  at  Wynberg,  in  the  morning,  on 
behalf  of  the  Sunday  School,  and  at  Eondebosch  in  the  evening. 
On  Monday  evening  I  attended  an  interesting  meeting  of  the 
London  Missionary  Society  in  Union  Chapel,  and,  according  to 
request,  gave  some  account  of  my  labours  in  the  West  Indies, 
which  appeared  to  interest  the  audience. 

On  Tuesday,  the  18th,  I  attended  for  the  first  time  the 
Ministers'  Breakfast  Meeting,  at  w^hich  I  met  with  the  Eev. 
George  Morgan,  the  Minister  of  the  Scotch  Church ;  the  Eev. 
William  Thompson,  Agent  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  ; 
the  Eev.  Abraham  Fauer,  Senior  Minister  of  the  Dutch  Eeformed 
Church;  the  Eev.  E.  Lamb,  Episcopalian  Minister  of  Trinity 
Church ;  and  other  dear  brethren  in  Christ,  with  whom  I  had 
frequently  the  happiness  of  being  afterwards  associated  in  similar 
gatherings  and  in  various  benevolent  and  philanthropic  efforts, 
and  with  whom  I  lived  and  laboured  during  the  entire  period  of 
my  residence  at  the  Cape  in  perfect  harmony  and  love.  This 
Ministers'  Meeting  is  an  institution  of  long  standing  at  the  Cape. 
It  is  held  every  alternate  week  at  the  residence  of  each  Minister 
in  rotation,  who  can  conveniently  enter  into  the  arrangement. 


CHAP.  IV. — ENTRANCE  ON  PEESONAL  MISSION.   495 

After  taking  breakfast  together,  an  hour  is  spent  in  prayer  and 
religious  conversation,  the  Minister  presiding  at  whose  house  the 
meeting  is  held  for  the  time  being.  Any  Minister  is  at  liberty 
to  take  with  him  and  introduce  a  ministerial  friend  who  may  be 
on  a  visit  to  the  Cape  ;  and  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting 
with  Dr.  Livingstone,  the  Eev.  Eobert Moffat,  and  other  honoured 
fathers  and  brethren  from  the  interior  of  Africa,  and  from  India 
and  Australia.  In  subsequent  years,  a  South  African  Branch 
of  the  Evangelical  Alliance  was  formed  at  the  Cape ;  but  long 
before  the  organization  of  such  an  institution  the  thing  itself  was 
in  existence  in  Cape  Town,  being  fostered  by  these  Ministers' 
Meetings  ;  and  I  can  testify  with  pleasure  that  I  never  resided  in 
any  place  where  I  witnessed  more  of  harmony  and  good  feeling 
among  Ministers  and  people  of  different  religious  denominations. 

On  Wednesday,  the  26th,  the  Eev.  John  E.  S.  Williams,  with 
Mrs.  Williams,  Miss  Cryer,  and  Miss  Batchelor,  afrived  from 
India,  on  their  way  to  England,  Mrs.  Williams  being  in  a  feeble 
state  of  health.  Soon  afterwards,  Mr.  Williams  was  appointed 
to  minister  to  the  Coolies  in  the  Colony  of  Demerara,  where  he 
fell  a  sacrifice  to  yellow  fever,  on  the  27  th  of  August,  185.3.  This 
was  the  first  Indian  Missionary  party  that  we  entertained  after 
our  arrival  at  the  Cape  ;  but  we  had  frequently  the  opportunity 
afterwards  of  welcoming  to  the  shores  of  South  Africa  dear 
brethren  and  their  families  passing  and  repassing  to  and  from 
their  respective  scenes  of  labour  in  Natal,  India,  and  Australia ; 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  being  a  convenient  place  of  call,  where 
they  seemed  to  enjoy  a  few  days  on  shore  to  break  the  mono- 
tony of  a  long  sea  voyage.  We  have  a  pleasant  recollection  of 
agreeable  visits  from  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Edward  Hardy  with  Mrs. 
Hardy,  Samuel  Hardy  with  Mrs.  Hardy  and  family,  Joseph 
Morris  with  Mrs.  Morris  and  family,  Isaac  Harding  with  Mrs. 
Harding,  Thomas  Hodgson  with  Mrs.  Hodgson  and  son,  John 
Pinkney  with  Mrs.  Pinkney  and  family,  Eobert  Young,  William 
Shaw,  Daniel  Sanderson,  David  Griffiths,  Eobert  Stephenson, 
John  Scott,  Eobert  W.  Pordige,  H.  W.  Dean,  and  some  others. 

When  we  had  become  in  some  measure  settled  in  our  new 
station  at  Cape  Town,  we  found  it  to  be  a  very  interesting  and 
important  sphere  of  labour.    In  addition  to  my  numerous  official 


496       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

duties,  I  had  the  charge  of  the  English  work  in  connexion  with 
Wesley  Chapel,  Burg  Street,  whilst  my  worthy  colleague^ 
Mr.  Eidsdale,  attended  to  the  native  department  in  Sydney 
Street.  The  congregations  at  both  places  of  worship  were 
increasingly  large  and  attentive;  and  the  Leaders,  Local 
Preachers,  and  Sabbath  School  Teachers,  were  zealous  and  active 
in  their  respective  departments  of  duty.  We  immediately  saw 
here,  as  we  had  often  done  in  other  places,  the  great  importance 
of  attending  to  the  religious  instmction  of  the  rising  generation^ 
Mrs.  Moister  cheerfully  took  charge  of  a  select  Bible  Class  which 
had  been  for  some  time  met  on  the  Sabbath  morning  by  the 
Minister's  wife  ;  and  I  organized  one  of  a  more  general  character, 
to  which  I  attended  on  the  Monday  afternoon,  which  soon  num- 
bered upwards  of  fifty  interesting  boys  and  girls,  of  different 
shades  of  complexion. 

Before  the  close  of  our  first  year's  residence  in  Cape  Town, 
the  enlargement   of   our  Burg  Street  chapel  appearing  to  be 
absolutely  necessary,  I  therefore  called  the  Trustees  together, 
consulted  with  my  brethren  and  friends,  and  we  set  about  the 
work  in  good  earnest.     It  was  a  great  undertaking,  considering 
the  heavy  debt  upon  the  premises,  and  the  slender  character  of 
our  resources,  in  a  mixed  community,  where  Methodism  had  not 
as  yet  obtained  a  very  substantial  footing.     But  our  leading 
friends  were  full  of  heart  and  hope ;  and  we  commenced  the  work 
in  the  spirit  of  faith  and  prayer.    Having  obtained  a  respectable 
list  of  subscriptions,  and  prepared  plans  and  specifications  of 
the  enlargements  and  alterations  to  be  made,  we  advertised  for 
tenders,  and  accepted  the  one  which  was  approved.     The  west 
end  of  the  chapel  was  taken   down,  and  the  building  enlarged 
by  an  addition  of  twenty-five  feet  to  its  length,  whilst  the  ceiling 
was  raised  about  eight  feet  higher  at  the  sides,  making  the  place 
more  lofty  and  airy,  whilst  at  the  same  time  its  appearance  wa& 
very  much  improved.     A  gallery  was  also  erected  at  the  east 
end  of  the  chapel  with  a  view  to  afford  accommodation  to  the 
school  children,  as  well  as  to  alford  additional  sittings  for  the 
increasing  congregation.     These  additions   and  improvements 
were  satisfactorily  completed  at  an  expenditure  of  about  £600  j 
and  such  was  the  liberality  with  which  the  people  came  forward  in 


CHAP.    IV. — E^' TRANCE    ON    PEllSONAL   MISSION".         497 

aid  of  the  undertaking,  that  the  whole  was  completed  without 
any  assistance  from  the  Parent  Society,  and  without  any  increase 
to  the  debt  upon  the  premises. 

Having  attended  to  various  matters  of  business  connected 
with  the  District,  which  had  been  accumulating  during  the 
period  Avhich  had  elapsed  since  the  death  of  my  lamented  pre- 
decessor, and  attended  to  the  claims  of  my  own  Circuit,  by 
renewing  the  quarterly  tickets  of  the  church  members,  adminis- 
tering the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper,  and  holding  busi- 
ness meetings  with  the  Trustees,  Leaders,  Local  Preachers,  and 
Sunday  School  Teachers,  I  embraced  the  first  opportunity  which 
presented  itself  of  paying  a  friendly  visit  to  the  respective 
stations  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Cape.  A  few  particulars 
as  to  the  character  and  extent  of  our  work  in  this  important 
section  of  the  Mission  field,  at  the  period  to  which  I  refer,  may 
be  interesting  to  the  reader,  as  they  will  clearly  show  that  the 
labours  of  the  early  Missionaries  had  not  been  in  vain  in  the 
Lord. 

Cape  Town  has  already  been  sufficiently  described,  as  to  its 
situation,  general  appearance,  and  population,  to  give  the 
reader  a  definite  idea  of  its  position  and  importance  as  the 
capital  of  the  Colony  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope.  It  only 
remains  for  me  to  make  a  few  further  observations  upon  it  as  a 
Wesley  an  Mission  station.  As  already  stated,  we  have  here 
two  distinct  and  important  departments  of  labour,  one  for  the 
English,  and  another  for  the  natives,  or  Dutch-speaking  por- 
tion of  the  inhabitants.  Our  place  of  worship  in  Burg  Street, 
called  Wesley  Chapel,  adjoining  which  is  the  Minister's  resi- 
dence, with  a  private  communication  through  the  vestry  door, 
is  a  neat,  respectable,  and  commodious  sanctuary.  Since  its 
enlargement,  it  will  accommodate  about  six  hundred  people. 
Por  intelligence  and  respectability,  the  congregation  would  bear 
a  comparison  with  that  of  any  provincial  town  in  England. 
On  entering  Burg  Street  chapel  on  a  Sabbath  day,  all  the  ser- 
vices being  conducted  in  English,  and  in  every  respect  after  the 
good  old  Methodist  style,  the  visitor  might  easily  imagine  him- 
self back  again  in  his  native  land.  On  my  arrival  at  the  Cape, 
I  found,  in  connexion  with  this  station,  about  one  hundred  and 

K    K 


498       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

twenty  church  members ;  and  the  Classes  were  in  a  very  fair 
state  of  discipline.  By  the  blessing  of  God  upon  the  labours 
of  His  servants,  these  have  now  increased  to  one  hundred  and 
eighty-six,  after  supplying  the  vacancies  which  have  been  occa- 
sioned, from  time  to  time,  by  death  and  removals,  S:c.  We 
have  at  Burg  Street  an  excellent  Sunday  school,  of  upwards  of 
three  hundred  scholars.  Formerly,  the  lessons  were  given 
and  the  addresses  were  delivered  more  frequently  in  Dutch 
than  in  English ;  but  of  late  years  English  has  prevailed  more 
and  more. 

Our  establishment  in  Sydney  Street,  for  the  native  depart- 
ment of  the  work,  is  situated  about  a  mile  from  the  English 
station,  at  the  eastern  end  of  the  city.  The  chapel  is  a  neat 
and  substantial  building ;  but  as  a  place  of  worship  it  has  to 
submit  to  the  inconvenience  of  being  used  as  a  school-room 
during  the  week.  The  services  are  generally  conducted  in  the 
Dutch  language,  and  are  well  attended  by  the  coloured  people 
of  the  neighbourhood  ;  which  is  every  year  becoming  more  and 
more  populous.  I  found  in  connexion  with  this  station  about 
a  hundred  and  fifty  church  members,  which  have  since  increased 
to  two  hundred  and  four.  The  Sydney  Street  Sunday  school 
is  conducted  entirely  in  English,  and  numbers  nearly  three  hun- 
dred children.  Here  we  have  also  an  excellent  day  school,  which 
I  found  in  a  languishing  state,  but  which  was  soon  re-organized, 
and  which  prospered  for  many  years  under  the  able  and  zealous 
management  of  Mr.  John  Eilmer,  the  teacher.  Since  the  erec- 
tion of  an  additional  school-room,  the  infants  have  been  drafted 
oiF,  and  taught  in  a  separate  department,  an  arrangement 
which  renders  the  establishment  still  more  complete  and 
efficient. 

With  a  view  to  render  this  brief  account  of  our  work  in  Cape 
Town  as  complete  as  possible,  I  may  here  add  that,  in  the  year 
1857,  a  third  chapel  was  erected,  in  Hope  Street,  on  the  north 
side  of  the  city,  nearly  a  mile  from  either  of  the  stations  already 
mentioned.  This  enterprise  was  largely  indebted  to  the  zeal 
and  benevolence  of  Mr.  James  Smithers,  and  other  active 
friends,  like-minded,  who  came  forward  nobly  on  the  occasion, 
so  that  the  undertaking  was  completed  without  any  aid  from 


CHAP.  IV. — ENTRANCE  ON  PERSONAL  MISSION.    499 

the  parent  Society.  Hope  Street  chapel  is  a  neat  little  struc- 
cture,  and  answers  the  double  purpose  of  a  place  of  worship  and 
a  school-room,  Divine  service  being  conducted,  and  schools 
carried  on,  botii  on  Sabbaths  and  week  days,  for  the  benefit  of  a 
lapidly-increasing  and  long-neglected  population.  The  day 
school  has  for  some  time  past  been  under  the  care  of  Mrs.  H. 
Berning,  a  lady  of  eminent  piety  and  zeal, — a  "  mother  in 
Israel."  In  addition  to  these  three  establishments  in  Cape 
Town,  there  is  also  a  flourishing  little  Sunday  school  taught  in 
Loop  Street,  which  has  been  a  blessing  to  the  neighbourhood. 

These  four  Sabbath  schools,  which  have  been  established  in 
different  parts  of  the  city,  are  united  in  what  is  denominated 
the  "Wesleyan  Cape  Town  Sunday  School  Union ;"  and  the 
institution  is  worked  with  a  zeal  and  earnestness  which  I  have 
never  seen  surpassed  in  any  country.  Tne  Rules  and  Kegula- 
tions  of  this  Union  have  been  improved  from  time  to  time,  till 
they  have  approached  very  near  to  perfection;  and  they  are 
attended  to  by  Superintendents,  secretaries,  treasurers, 
librarians,  visitors,  and  teachers,  in  a  manner  which  reflects 
much  credit  on  all  concerned.  The  anniversary  services  are 
held  at  Easter,  when  sermons  are  preached,  and  a  day  is  set 
apart  for  miscellaneous  exercises,  and  a  treat  for  the  children. 
The  scliolars,  and  teachers,  and  oflicers,  assemble  in  Wesley 
chapel  or  on  the  Parade,  to  the  number  of  nearly  a  thousand ; 
and,  having  been  addressed  by  the  Ministers,  and  sung  a  few 
hymns,  they  march  in  order  through  the  streets  of  the  city,  with 
their  banners  flying,  to  Sydney  Street  chapel  and  neighbour- 
hood, where  they  are  accommodated  in  large  booths  or  tents 
erected  for  the  occasion,  and  are  treated  with  tea  and  cake,  &c. 
Por  ten  years  in  succession,  with  only  one  exception,  occasioned 
by  indisposition,  I  had  the  pleasure  of  attending  and  taking 
part  in  this  delightful  gathering,  and  a  more  interesting  scene 
I  never  beheld.  It  is  pleasing  to  be  able  to  add,  that  our 
Mission  schools  in  Cape  Town  have  to  a  considerable  extent 
been  nurseries  to  the  church  ;  a  blessed  work  having  at  diflerent 
times  been  experienced  among  the  children  and  young- people, 
a  large  proportion  of  whom  have  been  gathered  into  the  fold  of 
Christ. 

2  K  2 


500       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

Eondebosdi,  being  only  four  miles  from  Cape  Town,  came  under 
my  notice  soon  after  my  arrival  in  South  Africa  ;  and,  after  a 
residence  of  about  two  years  in  the  city,  I  made  it  the  principal 
place  of  my  abode.  I  was  induced  to  adopt  this  arrangement, 
from  the  circumstance  qf  my  predecessors  having  frequently  had 
to  remove  to  different  places  in  the  country  for  the  benefit  of 
their  health,  as  well  as  from  my  experience  and  conviction  that 
Cape  Town  is  not  the  most  desirable  place  of  residence  for  any 
one  who  occupies  a  public  position,  which  taxes  his  mental  and 
physical  powers  to  the  utmost  of  their  capacity.  I  found  the 
work  in  a  very  weak  and  languishing  state  at  Eondebosch,  both 
in  the  native  and  English  departments.  It  appeared  to  have- 
been  gradually  declining  since  the  removal  of  the  Eev.  E. 
Eiclgill  some  time  before  to  another  sphere  of  labour.  By  the 
blessing  of  God  on  the  means  employed,  we  were  favoured  to 
witness  some  improvement.  We  have  a  neat  little  chapel  at 
this  place,  which  was  erected  by  the  late  Eev.  T.  L.  Hodgson, 
in  the  year  1845  ;  but  the  English  congregation  which  assem- 
bles in  it  is  composed  in  a  great  measure  of  persons  who  belong 
to  other  branches  of  the  Christian  church,  and  who  worship 
with  us  not  merely  because  they  are  friendly  to  us,  and  approve- 
of  our  ministry,  but  also  because  they  have  no  place  of  worship 
of  their  own  denomination  in  the  neighbourhood.  This  being 
the  case,  we  had  frequently  large  and  attentive  congregations, 
and  pleasing  indications  of  spiritual  good  resulting  from  our 
labours,  whilst  the  addition  to  the  number  of  our  church  mem- 
bers was  very  small  indeed.  It  was  otherwise,  however,  in  the 
native  department.  Although  we  laboured  under  the  disadvan- 
tage of  having  no  regular  place  of  worship  for  our  services,  and 
were  obliged  to  put  up  with  a  contracted  room,  which  we  hired 
for  the  purpose,  the  people  flocked  to  hear  the  word  of  God ; 
and  a  goodly  number  were  gathered  into  the  fold  of  Christ.  At 
the  close  of  the  year  1859,  an  interesting  service  was  held,  at 
which  twenty-two  native  adults  were  received  into  the  church 
by  baptism.  Eondebosch  and  the  neighbourhood  affords  a 
fine  field  of  labour  among  the  coloured  classes ;  but,  as  they 
generally  speak  the  Dutch  language,  and  prefer  their  religious 
services  in  that  tongue,  a  suitable  place  of  worship  should  be 


CHAP.    IV. — ENTRA5>^CE    ON    PERSOKAL   MISSION.  501 

■erected  for  them.  The  want  of  a  suitable  site  and  other 
difficulties  have  hitherto  prevented  the  accomplishment  of  this 
desirable  object. 

Soon  after  our  removal  to  Eondebosch,  my  attention  was 
directed  to  a  scattered  and  neglected  village  or  liamlet  called 
N  ewlands,  which  I  began  to  visit  on  Sabbath  afternoons, 
between  our  principal  services,  which  were  held  in  the  fore- 
noons and  evenings.  ¥or  three  years  I  preached,  when  the 
weather  would  permit,  under  some  large  oak  trees  ;  and,  amid 
many  difficulties,  arising  from  Pagan  darkness,  Mohammedan 
superstition,  and  determined  wickedness,  we  persevered  till 
some  religious  impression  was  made.  With  the  aid  of  our 
kind  friends  in  Cape  Town  and  other  places,  we  ultimately  suc- 
ceeded in  our  efforts  to  erect  a  neat  little  chapel,  which  was 
opened  for  Divine  service  on  the  4th  of  April,  1858.  Our 
rejoicing  at  the  accomplishment  of  this  desirable  object  had 
scarcely  subsided,  when  there  came  a  fearful  storm  of  wind  and 
rain,  which  laid  waste  many  buildings  in  the  neighbourhood, 
and,  among  the  rest,  the  front  end  of  our  beautiful  little  sanc- 
tuary was  completely  demolished,  the  folding  panelled  doors 
and  stained  glass  windows  being  smashed  to  pieces.  Nothing 
daunted,  we  appealed  to  our  friends  for  help ;  they  came  for- 
ward again  most  liberally,  and  the  waste  places  on  this  little 
hill  of  Zion  were  soon  repaired,  and  we  proceeded  with  our 
work  as  before.  A  class  of  ten  members  was  ultimately  formed. 
Sabbath  and  day  schools  were  established,  and  this  little  out- 
station  was  made  a  blessing  to  the  community  at  a  time 
when  there  were  no  other  means  employed  for  their  religious 
instruction. 

Another  out -station  which  1  succeeded  in  organizing  in  con- 
nexion with  the  Eondebosch  Circuit,  was  at  the  village  of 
Claremont.  Here  we  found  a  large  number  of  Negroes, 
Malays,  and  other  coloured  persons,  as  ignorant  and  demoral- 
ized as  the  heathen  population  of  the  interior.  They  could  not 
be  induced  to  enter  any  place  of  worship,  in  consequence  of 
their  ragged,  degraded  condition;  and  I  doubt  w^hether  any 
impression  for  good  would  have  been  made  upon  their  minds, 
•if  we  had  not  commenced  with  open-air  services.     For  a  length 


502       PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

of  time  we  had  preaching  and  Sunday  school  in  a  grove  of  lir- 
trees  ;  and,  from  the  beginning,  the  Divine  blessing  appeared 
to  accompany  our  efforts.  Encouraged  by  the  liberality  of  our 
friends  in  Cape  Town  and  other  places,  we  ultimately  erected 
a  neat  little  chapel  liere  also,  on  a  piece  of  land  generously  pre- 
sented to  the  Society  by  J.  A.  Stegman,  Esq.  This  beautiful 
little  sanctuary  was  formally  opened  for  public  worship  on  the 
1st  of  January,  ISfiO  ;  on  which  occasion  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
baptizing  seven  adults,  who,  from  their  deep  seriousness  and' 
previous  training,  appeared  eligible  for  admission  into  the 
church  of  Christ.  These  were  the  first  fruits  of  our  labours  at 
this  place  ;  but  many  more  were  afterwards  gathered  into  the- 
fold  of  the  Eedeemer ;  and  the  Gospel  has  been  faithfully 
preached  there  from  that  time  to  the  present. 

Wynberg  is  an  interesting  station,  eight  miles  from  the 
metropolis,  and  it  claimed  my  attention  immediately  after  our 
arrival  at  the  Cape.  I  found  the  work  in  a  state  far  from 
prosperous,  several  obstacles  appearing  to  stand  in  the  way  of 
spiritual  progress.  The  principal  of  these  was  the  want  of  a 
more  commodious  and  respectable  chapel  for  the  English  con- 
gregation. The  old  thatched  chapel  adjoining  the  Mission- 
House,  erected  in  182S  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  Shaw  and 
Mr.  Snowdall,  had  become  very  dilapidated  and  uncomfortable; 
but  for  several  years  there  appeared  to  be  no  prospect  of  obtain- 
ing a  more  suitable  place,  our  cause  being  weak,  and  our  peo- 
ple generally  far  from  wealthy.  At  length.  Divine  Providence- 
raised  up  a  friend  in  the  person  of  J.  M.  Maynard,  Esq.  This 
noble-minded  Christian  gentleman,  himself  a  member  of  the 
congregation,  and  largely  indebted  to  the  religious  influence  of 
Wesleyan  Missions,  seeing  the  necessity  of  the  case,  gene- 
rously came  forward  and  built  a  beautiful  chapel  himself,  at  a 
cost  of  about  a  thousand  pounds.  When  the  building  was 
completed,  and  ready  to  be  opened  for  Divine  service,  it  was 
formally  and  freely  presented  to  the  Wesleyan  Missionary 
Society,  transfer  being  given  on  the  plan  of  the  Model  Deed  of 
our  Connexion.  Neither  must  I  omit  to  mention  that  the  lot  of 
land  on  which  the  chapel  stands,  at  the  cost  of  a  hundred  pounds, 
was  the  gift  of  Joseph  Maynard,  Esq.,  the  brother  of  the  gentle- 


CHAP.    IV. — ENTRANCE    ON    PERSONAL   MISSION.         503 

man  already  named.  These  were  not  the  first  nor  the  last 
offerings  of  those  friends  of  Missions  in  aid  of  our  work.  Being 
deeply  impressed  with  what  they  had  witnessed  of  the  blessed 
results  of  the  Gospel,  as  preached  by  our  Missionaries  in  South 
Africa,  they  were  always  ready  to  come  to  our  help  in  cases  of 
necessity,  notwithstanding  their  regular  contributions  to  the 
Mission  Fund.  The  VVynberg  new  chapel  was  formally  opened 
for  public  worship  on  Tuesday,  the  4th  of  November,  1851, 
when,  by  request,  I  preached  in  the  morning  from  Haggai  ii. 
9  :  "  The  glory  of  this  latter  house  shall  be  greater  than  the 
glory  of  the  former,  saith  the  Lord  of  hosts :  and  in  this  place 
will  I  give  peace,  saith  the  Lord  of  hosts."  In  the  afternoon, 
Mr.  Haddy  preached  in  Dutch,  after  which  there  was  a  tea 
meeting  at  Plumpstead  estate,  and  Mr.  Eidgill  preached  in  the 
evening.  The  old  chapel  was  now  set  apart  for  native  service 
and  as  a  school-room,  and  for  some  time  the  English  depart- 
ment of  the  work  wore  a  more  encouraging  aspect.  But 
although  the  congregations  have  frequently  been  large  and 
respectable,  the  number  of  church  members  has  not  increased, 
as  was  anticipated,  owing  chiefly  to  the  circumstance  that  many 
who  worship  with  us  are  members  of  other  churches,  as  at 
Eondebosch,  and  continue  their  nominal  relationship  to  the 
religious  bodies  to  which  they  belong. 

The  most  prosperous  and  encouraging  department  of  the 
work  in  connexion  with  the  Wynberg  Circuit,  in  a  missionary 
point  of  view,  is  that  which  is  carried  on  in  the  Dutch  lan- 
guage for  the  benefit  of  the  natives.  Some  of  the  services  are 
conducted  in  the  old  chapel  at  Wynberg,  as  already  stated,  and 
are  attended  by  a  number  of  coloured  persons  residing  on  the 
Cape  Mats  ;  but  the  chief  locality  of  the  native  work  is  an  outr 
station  called  Diep  Eiver,  about  two  miles  from  Wynberg,  on 
the  Simon's  Town  road.  Here  we  have  a  substantial  chapel, 
erected  by  Mr.  Haddy  in  the  year  1840,  in  which  an  interest- 
ing congregation  assembles  together  from  Sabbath  to  Sabbath, 
and  occasionally  on  week  nights.  About  sixty  persons  are 
united  together  in  church  fellowship,  who  give  evidence  of  their 
sincerity  by  a  consistent  walk  and  conversation.  An  excellent 
day-school  is    also    in    active  operation,  under  the  judicious 


504       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

management  of  Mr.  E.  M'Leod,  who  has  long  laboured  usefully 
and  acceptably  at  this  place  in  the  capacity  of  Teacher  and 
Local  Preacher,  as  he  did  previously  for  some  time  in  Great 
Namaqualand. 

Simon's  Town  is  an  important  station,  twenty-two  miles 
from  the  city,  in  the  same  direction  as  the  places  already 
named,  and  was  first  visited  by  me  on  the  15th  of  March, 
1851.  I  had  been  detained  in  Cape  Town  till  a  later  hour 
than  I  intended,  by  a  trustee  meeting  which  I  found  it  neces- 
sary to  hold  before  I  left  home ;  and  I  had  to  ride  hard,  though 
the  day  was  wet,  to  prevent  my  being  benighted  on  the  road. 
After  passing  through  the  pleasant  villages  of  Eondebosch, 
Claremont,  and  Wynberg,  the  road  becomes  rather  dreaiy. 
On  the  right  hand,  an  extensive  range  of  barren,  rocky  moun- 
tains rear  their  almost  perpendicular  fronts  to  a  considerable 
height ;  and  on  the  left  the  Cape  Flats,  a  vast  sandy  plain,  pre- 
sents itself  to  the  view,  beyond  which  may  be  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance the  lofty  blue  mountains  of  Hottentots'  Holland.  Then 
appears  the  ocean,  as  it  breaks  on  the  strand  at  the  head  of 
False  Bay,  along  the  sandy  margin  of  which  the  road  con- 
tinues for  many  miles,  affording  a  beautiful  view  of  Simon's 
Town  in  the  distance.  On  arriving  at  the  end  of  my  journey, 
I  met  with  a  hearty  reception  from  the  Kev.  John  Thomas  and 
his  excellent  wife,  who  had  accompanied  us  from  England,  and 
had  been  recently  appointed  to  this  station.  Here  we  have  a 
neat  and  commodious  chapel,  in  which  I  preached  to  good  con- 
gregations, both  morning  and  evening,  on  the  Sabbath.  I  also 
visited  the  Sunday  school,  which  I  found  in  a  very  fair  state  of 
efficiency,  considering  the  difficulties  with  which  it  has  had  to 
contend.  I  spent  the  following  day  in  attending  to  various 
matters  of  business  connected  with  the  station,  and  in  visiting 
a  few  of  our  people,  who,  on  this,  as  on  many  subsequent  occa- 
sions, received  me  in  the  most  kind  and  cordial  manner.  When 
it  was  fully  arranged  that  Simon's  Town  ^'as  again  to  be 
favoured  with  a  resident  Minister,  we  purchased  a  cottage  resi- 
dence, in  a  quiet  retired  situation  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
town  ;  and  he  extended  his  labours  to  an  interesting  out-station, 
called  Elsey's  Eiver,  at  a  distance  of  about  two  miles  over  the 


CHAP.    IV. — ENTflA>'CE    ON    PERSONAL   MISSION.         505 

hills.  At  this  place  a  small  chapel  was  erected  in  the  year 
1857,  and  a  day  school  established  by  the  persevering  exertions 
of  the  Kev.  John  Priestley ;  and  thus  the  means  of  religious 
instruction  were  afforded  to  a  scattered  and  neglected  popula- 
tion. I  returned  home  from  my  first  visit  to  Simon's  Town  on 
the  Monday  afternoon,  calling  to  see  the  Diep  Eiver  school  on 
my  way,  and  reached  Cape  Town  about  five  o'clock,  just  in 
time  to  meet  my  Bible  Class ;  and,  on  entering  the  chapel,  I  was 
delighted  to  find  fifty  interesting  young  people  waiting  for  me. 

Somerset  (West)  was  the  next  station  that  I  had  an  oppor- 
tunity of  visiting  for  the  purpose  of  making  myself  acquainted 
■with  the  work  in  all  its  departments.  Having  made  arrange- 
ments with  the  resident  Minister,  the  Kev.  R.  Ridgill,  who  had 
kindly  come  to  Cape  Town  to  accompany  me,  we  set  out 
together  on  horseback,  on  Saturday,  the  5  th  of  April.  As  the 
day  was  far  spent  before  we  had  fairly  commenced  our  journey, 
we  took  the  nearest  road  across  the  Cape  Flats,  and  rode  at  a 
rapid  rate,  sometimes  among  hills  of  sand  resembling  drifts  of 
driven  snow,  and  then  over  extensive  tracts  of  waste  barren  land. 
After  riding  about  eleven  miles,  we  came  to  Klip-Fountain,  a 
small  settlement  in  the  centre  df  this  desert,  originally  a  Wesleyan 
out-station,  then  relinquished  for  several  years  for  want  of  the 
means  of  supplying  it  with  missionary  labour,  and  afterwards 
taken  up  again  under  more  favourable  circumstances.  The  day 
being  very  hot,  both  we  and  our  horses  were  fatigued ;  we 
therefore  "  off-saddled  "  and  "  knee-haltered,"  and  allowed  our 
horses  to  graze  for  half  an  hour.  In  the  mean  time,  we  entered 
a  humble  cottage,  and  were  kindly  received  by  the  inmates, 
who  were  once  Wesleyans,  and  who  still  delighted  to  hear  and 
speak  of  the  love  of  Christ.  These  good  people  soon  made  us 
a  comfortable  cup  of  tea,  and  furnished  us  with  an  ample 
supply  of  bread  and  butter,  which  was  very  acceptable.  They 
were  somewhat  amused  at  my  first  attempt  to  speak  Dutch ; 
but  confidently  pronounced  that  I  should  soon  become  a  good 
Dutchman !  On  remounting  our  horses  we  pushed  on  sixteen 
miles  further,  partly  over  soft  sand,  and  partly  over  the  main 
road  which  leads  from  Cape  Town  to  the  colonial  frontier;  and 
we  came  in  sight  of  Somerset  just  as  the  sun  was  setting.     The 


BOG       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

appearance  of  the  village  from  a  distance  is  very  beautiful, 
especially  that  part  of  it  which  consists  of  the  Missionary 
Institution,  with  the  neat,  stone-built,  whitewashed  cottages 
and  well-arranged  gardens  of  the  people,  and  the  Mission- 
House  and  chapel  standing  in  the  centre.  Mrs.  Ridgill  hailed 
our  arrival  with  joy ;  and  I  soon  found  myself  at  home  with 
this  interesting  Mission  family. 

After  a  comfortable  night's  rest,  I  was  awoke  on  Sunday 
morning  by  the  delightful  sound  of  praise  to  God,  as  it  ascended 
from  the  native  congregation  assembled  in  their  prayer-meeting* 
in  the  chapel  adjoining  the  Mission-House.  This  circumstance 
awakened  in  my  mind  the  most  pleasing  emotions,  and  forcibly 
reminded  me  of  our  early  morning  prayer-meetings  in  the  West 
Indies.  On  walking  through  the  village  before  breakfast,  I  was 
greeted  with  the  cheerful  smiles  and  friendly  salutations  of  the 
people,  as  they  sat  at  the  doors  of  their  dwellings  ;  and,  as  I 
contemplated  the  scene  before  me,  I  was  deeply  impressed  with 
the  great  advantages,  temporal  as  well  as  spiritual,  which  they 
now  enjoyed  by  the  introduction  of  the  Gospel  into  their  coun- 
try. At  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  first  public  service 
was  held.  The  chapel  was  filled  with  attentive  hearers,  nearly 
all  persons  of  colour,  and  a  few  years  ago  in  a  state  of  slavery  ; 
but  now  free,  and  appearing  in  the  house  of  God  neatly  attired, 
and  truly  solemn  and  devout  in  their  demeanour.  The  singing 
was  delightful;  and,  although  but  imperfectly  acquainted  with  the 
language  in  which  they  worshipped,  I  felt  that  God  was  present 
in  the  midst  of  His  people.  Mr.  Eidgill  preached  in  Dutch  with 
great  fluency  and  power ;  after  which  I  baptized  two  children, 
and  addressed  the  congregation,  Mr.  Eidgill  kindly  interpret- 
ing. At  eleven  o'clock,  I  preached  in  English  to  a  good  con- 
gregation, considering  the  circumstances  of  the  place ;  and, 
altogether,  I  felt  much  delighted  with  the  public  services  of  the 
first  Sabbath  I  spent  at  Somerset. 

I  had  also  occasion  to  be  equally  well  pleased  with  the  Mis- 
sion school,  which  I  examined  on  the  following  day.  One 
hundred  and  thirty  native  children  were  present.  They  sang 
several  pieces,  both  in  Dutch  and  English,  most  sweetly ;  and 
answered  the  questions  proposed  to  them  with    considerable 


CHAP.    IV. — ENTRANCE    ON    PERSONAL   MISSION.         590 

facility.  The  reading,  writing,  and  arithmetic  were  very  fair, 
and  would  bear  a  comparison  with  those  of  our  common  schools 
in  England.  The  progress  made  by  these  children  reflected  great 
credit  upon  Mr.  Gray,  their  former  Teacher,  as  well  as  upon 
Mr.  H.  Geyer,  wbo  was  then  in  charge  of  the  school,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  vigilant  oversight  of  the  devoted  resident 
Minister. 

On  the  Sabbatli  afternoon  I  visited  an  interesting  out-station 
called  Terrington  Grove,  in  compai^y  with  Mr.  Eidgill.  At 
this  place,  which  is  four  miles  from  Somerset,  we  have  a  neat 
little  chapel.  It  stands  at  the  foot  of  the  new  road  which  leads 
through  Sir  Lowry's  Pass,  surrounded  by  a  number  of  cottages, 
which  form  a  scattered  village.  The  inhabitants  of  this  neigh- 
bourhood have  no  other  means  of  religious  instruction  than 
those  supplied  by  the  visits  of  our  Missionaries,  and  the  little 
day  school  which  we  have  established  for  the  education  of  the 
children.  The  chapel  was  built  a  few  years  ago  at  the  sole 
expense  of  Captain  Terrington,  and  was  presented  by  him  to 
the  Society  free  of  debt.  Mr.  Eidgill  preached  an  energetic 
sermon  in  Dutch  to  a  crowded  congregation  of  attentive  hearers. 
The  venerable  Captain  himself  was  present  at  the  service  ;  and 
I  had  an  opportunity  of  assuring  him  of  the  estimation  in 
which  his  valuable  aid  was  held  by  the  Committee  at  home. 
He  was  a  worthy  member  of  our  church ;  and,  notwithstanding 
his  advanced  age,  he  still  took  an  active  part  in  the  Sunday 
school.  The  population  of  this  place  has  increased  consider- 
ably since  we  purchased  and  rented  to  people  several  lots  of 
land  on  the  plan  of  a  regular  Missionary  Institution. 

Another  out-station,  in  connexion  with  the  Somerset  (West) 
Circuit  is  at  the  Strand,  at  the  head  of  Palse  Bay,  about  four 
miles  from  the  village  in  another  direction.  This  place  has 
risen  to  some  importance  in  consequence  of  its  being  frequently 
resorted  to  as  a  watering-place  in  the  hot  season,  by  parties 
who  find  it  convenient  to  spend  a  few  weeks  at  the  sea-side. 
The  Dutch  farmers  from  a  distance  who  are  able  to  indulge  in 
this  fashionable  luxury,  generally  manage  to  turn  their  annual 
visit  to  good  account  by  returning  home  with  a  waggon  load  of 
fish,  which  are  caught  and  cured  here  in  large  quantities  by  native 


508       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

fishermen.  Several  neat  little  cottages  have  been  built  here, 
and  are  rented  for  short  periods  to  visitors.  By  the  persever- 
ing exertions  of  Mr.  Ridgill,  and  the  liberality  of  the  friends  of 
Missions  in  the  neighbourhood,  a  neat  little  chapel  has  been 
erected  ;  and,  although  the  congregations  are  necessarily  fluctu- 
ating, we  cannot  doubt  but  good  will  result  from  the  efforts 
which  are  being  made  to  diffuse  the  saving  light  of  the  Gospel. 
On  the  occasion  of  my  first  visit  to  this  place,  I  found  a  little 
day  school  in  active  operation,  under  the  care  of  Captain  Ward, 
a  visitor  from  India.  This  noble-minded  Christian  gentleman, 
having  been  made  a  partaker  of  the  saving  grace  of  God,  and 
having  come  to  the  Cape  for  the  benefit  of  his  health,  could  not 
calmly  look  on  and  see  a  number  of  children  in  heathen  dark- 
ness, without  doing  something  towards  their  religious  instruc- 
tion. He  therefore  collected  them  together  in  the  Wesleyan 
chapel,  with  the  ready  concurrence  of  the  Missionary,  and 
taught  them  daily  during  the  time  that  he  sojourned  in  the 
place.  I  found  the  gallant  Captain  busy  at  his  humble  task, 
and  viewed  the  striking  spectacle  with  gratitude  and  joy, 
sincerely  wishing  the  aristocrats  of  other  lands  knew  like  him 
the  real  luxury  of  doing  good. 

I  often  visited  the  Somerset  (West)  station  in  after  years,  and 
always  with  pleasure.  The  good  work  has  gradually  advanced, 
under  the  judicious  and  zealous  efforts  of  the  Rev.  E.  Eidgill, 
who  has  for  many  years  been  the  resident  Minister,  and  he  has 
at  length  succeeded  in  the  erection  of  a  beautiful  new  chapel, 
which  is  a  credit  to  him  and  to  all  who  have  taken  a  part  in  the 
noble  enterprise.  It  was  formally  opened  for  public  worship  on 
the  29th  of  August,  1861,  when  appropriate  sermons  were 
preached  by  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Cameron,  Edwards,  Tindall,  and 
Godman,  Mr.  Eidgill  himself  preaching  in  the  open  air  to  hun- 
dreds who  could  not  gain  admittance. 

Stellenbosch  was  the  next  station  which  I  arranged  to  visit, 
for  the  purpose  of  spending  a  Sabbath,  and  inspecting  the 
school.  I  left  Cape  Town  by  the  omnibus,  on  the  afternoon  of 
Saturday,  the  10th  of  May.  The  wind  being  high,  we  encoun- 
tered such  a  storm  of  sand  as  I  had  never  seen  before,  but 
afterwards  experienced  many  such.     I  reached  the   end  of  my 


CHAP.  IV. — ENTRANCE  ON  PERSONAL  MISSION.    509 

journey  soon  after  sunset,  and  re'^eived  a  kind  and  hearty- 
welcome  from  the  Eev.  Edward  Edwards,  his  excellent  wife, 
and  interesting  family.  Here  we  have  a  good  chapel,  which 
was  erected  in  the  year  1840,  and  a  commodious  residence  for 
the  Minister.  A  large  congregation  assembled  on  the  Sabbath, 
chiefly  of  coloured  persons  resident  in  the  town  and  from  the 
neighbouring  farms.  The  singing  was  lively  and  hearty,  and 
the  conduct  and  demeanour  of  the  people  during  worship  was 
strikingly  solemn  and  becoming.  Mr.  Edwards  preached 
morning  and  afternoon,  in  Dutch,  with  an  earnestness  and  zeal 
remarkable  for  his  advanced  age ;  and  in  the  evening,  according 
to  request,  I  preached  to  a  large  and  attentive  audience  in 
English. 

On  Monday  morning  I  examined  the  day  school,  which  I 
found  in  a  fair  state  of  advancement  and  efiiciency,  under  the 
care  of  Mr.  Hendrickse,  the  zealous  Teacher.  The  children  mani- 
fested an  intimate  acquaintance  with  our  excellent  Conference 
Catechisms,  which  have  been  translated  into  the  Dutch  language. 

Mr.  Edwards  kindly  drove  me  over  to  Eaithby,  an  interest- 
ing out-station,  about  five  miles  from  Stellenbosch,  and  so 
called  in  honour  of  the  late  Mrs.  Brackenbury,  of  Eaithby  Hall, 
Lincolnshire,  a  liberal  patroness  of  the  Mission.  We  have  a 
^mall  chapel  here,  which  is  well  attended  by  the  coloured  people, 
who  occupy  cottages  that  they  have  built  on  lots  of  land  which 
they  hire  from  the  Missionary  Institution.  A  small  day  school 
is  taught  in  the  chapel,  which  I  examined  with  great  pleasure, 
the  children  being  weU  advanced,  especially  in  religious  know- 
ledge. The  Stellenbosch  Missionary  also  visits  a  place  called 
Sandfleet,  where  a  small  society  has  been  formed,  but  no  chapel 
has  as  yet  been  erected. 

I  frequently  visited  the  Stellenbosch  station  afterwards,  and 
marked  with  delight  the  gradual  advancement  of  the  work 
under  the  judicious  superintendence  of  the  venerable  Mr. 
Edwards,  who  had  charge  of  it  for  fifteen  years  in  succession ; 
and  who  has  just  retired  as  a  Supernumerary  Minister,  after 
labouring  faithfully  in  South  Africa  for  nearly  half  a  century. 
May  his  declining  years  be  peaceful  and  happy,  and  his  long 
life  of  honourable  toil  be  foUoAved  by  a  rich  reward  in  heaven ! 


510       PABT  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 


CHAPTER  V. 

FIEST  JOUKNEY  10  THE  KTEFJOR. 

The  Overberg  Country — Bosclgesveld — J.  D.  Lindsay,  Esq. — Commence- 
ment of  Journey — African  Ox-Waggon — Inspanniug — Sir  Lovvry's  Pass 
—  Outspanning — Encampment  for  the  Night — Newmanville — Happy 
Sabbath — Return  Homeward — Fransch  Hoek — Arrival  in  Cape  Town — 
Second  Visit — Journey  to  Robertson — Interesting  Services — Visit  to 
Swellendam — Return  Journey — Arrival  at  Rondebosch — Extension  of 
the  ^York — The  Robertson  Circuit — The  Swellendam  Station. 

Havi]S'G  made  myself  acquainted  with  the  state  of  the  work 
in  Cape  Town,  and  on  the  neighhbouring  stations,  and  being 
deeply  convinced  that  in  the  regions  beyond  there  were  ample 
lields  of  missionary  labour  unoccupied  by  the  agents  of  other 
Societies,  I  made  arrangements  in  the  early  part  of  the  second 
year  of  ray  residence  at  the  Cape,  for  a  journey  of  observation 
to  Boschjesveld,  in  the  district  of  Worcester,  and  in  a  section  of 
what  is  generally  called  the  Overberg  Country.  I  was  led  to 
turn  my  attention  to  this  locality,  in  the  first  instance,  in  conse- 
quence of  some  interesting  communications  which  I  had  received 
from  J.  D.  Lindsay,  Esq.,  J,P.,  who  had  some  time  before 
settled  there  in  business,  and  who  manifested  a  laudable  zeal 
for  the  spiritual  interests  of  the  people  around  him.  This 
Christian  gentleman  was  himself  the  fruit  of  missionary  labour, 
having  been  brought  to  a  saving  knovi'ledge  of  the  truth  soon 
after  his  arrival  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope ;  and,  being  of  an 
ardent  temperament,  he  exerted  himself  nobly  on  behalf  of 
his  dark,  benighted  fellow-men  from  the  first  day  that  he  made 
an  open  profession  of  religion.  With  a  view  to  qualify  himself 
for  usefulness  among  the  natives  of  the  country  in  which  his 
lot  was  cast,  as  well  as  to  prosecute  his  business  with  success, 
he  learned  the  language  of  the  people,    and   was   ever  ready 


CHAP.   V. — FIRST   JOURNEY   TO   THE    IKTEEIOB.  511 

to  speak  a  word  in  season  to  those  with  whom  he  came  in 
contact. 

When  Mr.  Lindsay  removed  to  Newmanville,  in  Boschjesveld, 
he  foimd  himself  and  family  far  from  any  place  of  worship,  and 
in  the  vicinity  of  a  considerable  popnlation,  for  whose  religious 
instruction  no  provision  was  made  by  any  Christian  denomina- 
tion. He  therefore  resolved  at  once  to  do  all  in  his  power  to 
supply  this  lack  of  ministerial  labour.  He  fitted  up  a  large 
room  as  a  chapel  and  school-house  on  his  own  premises ;  and 
being  well  acquainted  with  the  Dutch  language,  and  having 
previously  officiated  as  a  Wesley  an  Local  Preacher,  he  began  to 
jproclaim  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  to  all  who  were  willing  to 
hear.  He  soon  collected  a  good  congregation,  and  established 
an  interesting  little  Sunday  school ;  and  he  had  reason  to 
believe  that  several  of  the  coloured  people  who  attended  were 
earnestly  seeking  the  salvation  of  their  souls.  Having  thus 
been  enabled,  by  the  blessing  of  God,  to  lay  the  foundation  of 
a  good  work,  Mr.  Lindsay  was  anxious  to  secure  the  services  of 
a  Missionary.  Our  nearest  station  was  Somerset  (West),  at  a 
distance  of  about  fifty  miles ;  but  on  being  made  acquainted 
with  the  necessity  of  the  case,  the  Kev.  K.  iCidgiil  nobly 
responded  to  the  call,  and  arranged  to  visit  Newmanville  once 
a  quarter.  A  few  visits  had  been  paid  by  the  Missionary,  and 
some  arrangements  to  make  more  ample  provision  for  the  place 
were  considered  extremely  desirable  when  I  was  requested  to 
undertake  a  tour  of  inspection. 

On  Monday,  the  24th  of  February,  1853,  I  left  Cape  Town 
by  the  Stellenbosch  omnibus,  and  at  the  Half-way  House  a  con- 
veyance was  waiting  to  take  m.e  to  Somerset  (West),  where  I 
arrived  in  the  evening.  I  found  Mr.  liidgill  had  every  thing 
connected  with  the  travelling  department  in  a  state  of  readiness 
for  our  journey,  whilst  his  excellent  wife  had  been  busy  making 
ample  provision  for  the  supply  of  our  wants  on  the  road.  We 
retired  to  rest  at  an  early  hour,  that  we  might  be  the  better 
jprepared  for  the  exercises  of  the  morrow. 

Soon  after  midnight,  the  oxen  were  collected,  the  waggon 
"  in-packed,"  and  every  thing  put  in  train  for  an  early  start,  it 
heing  desirable  to  get  as  far  on  our  journey  as  possible  in  the 


512        PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

cool  of  tlie  morning,  that  we  might  have  time  to  rest  the  cattle 
in  the  heat  of  the  day.  About  half-past  two  o'clock  on  Tuesday 
morning,  the  oxen  were  "inspanned,"  and  we  commenced  our 
journey.  I  was  accompanied,  on  this  occasion,  by  the  Eevs. 
Messrs.  Eidgill  and  Jackson,  Mr.  T.  Jackson,  the  man  from 
whom  we  hired  the  oxen,  and  a  Hottentot  boy  named 
September. 

This  being  the  first  time  that  I  had  travelled  in  the  lumberly 
African  ox-waggon,  every  thing  connected  with  it  attracted  my 
attention;  and  a  brief  description  of  this  primitive  mode  of 
locomotion,  once  for  all,  may  be  interesting  to  the  English 
reader.  The  common  travelling  waggon  of  South  Africa  differs- 
in  many  respects  from  any  vehicle  of  the  kind  used  for  a  similar 
purpose  in  Europe.  The  body  is  long  and  narrow,  with  deep 
sides,  rising  with  a  gentle  curve  to  a  considerable  height  at  the- 
hinder  part,  and  mounted  on  two  pairs  of  wheels  of  the  ordinary 
size,  but  of  great  strength.  The  whole  is  constructed  and  put 
together  in  the  strongest  possible  manner,  at  the  same  time 
that  provision  is  made  for  considerable  play  and  motion  in  ali 
the  joints,  with  a  view  to  adaptation  to  the  rough  roads  over 
which  it  has  to  travel.  The  body  of  the  waggon  is  covered 
over  with  a  spacious  canvas  or  sail-cloth  tent,  supported  by 
a  semicircular  roof,  and  affords  protection  from  the  rain  or 
sun.  Such  is  the  shell  of  the  moveable  dwelling  of  the- 
African  Missionary  or  traveller,  in  which  he  lives  and  lodges- 
for  weeks  and  months  together  whilst  traversing  the  wilderness. 

But  in  order  to  form  a  correct  idea  of  this  strange  mode  of 
life,  we  must  look  not  only  at  the  house,  but  at  the  furniture. 
The  waggon  is  furnished  with  two  spacious  chests, — one  in 
front,  which  serves  as  a  seat  for  the  driver,  and  the  other 
behind.  In  these  the  wearing  apparel,  provisions,  and  various 
articles  for  domestic  use,  are  carefully  stowed  away ;  and  the 
old  adage  is  faithfully  observed  :  "  A  place  for  every  thing,  and 
every  thing  in  its  place."  Below  the  achter-Jcist  is  sus- 
pended, near  to  the  ground,  a  frame  called  the  trap,  on  which, 
are  packed  pots,  pans,  kettles,  and  other  cooking  utensils,  to  be 
close  at  hand  when  required ;  and  on  the  outside  of  the  waggon 
there  are  two  small  boxes  for  saws,  hatchets,  hammers,  uails^ 


CHAP.    V. — FIRST   JOURNEY   TO    THE    INTERIOR.  513 

and  screws,  &c.,  to  be  easily  accessible  in  case  of  accidents  on  the 
road.  The  interior  of  the  waggon  is  generally  divided  into  two 
compartments,  in  one  of  which  the  Missionary  or  traveller  sits 
during  the  day,  and  in  the  other  he  sleeps  at  night,  his  mattress 
being  placed  on  a  frame  called  a  cartel,  suspended  over  his 
boxes  and  trunks,  wdiich  are  securely  packed  in  the  body  of  the 
vehicle.  When  a  careful,  experienced  Missionary's  wife  presides 
over  the  domestic  arrangements,  the  interior  of  the  waggon 
presents  to  the  view  a  scene  of  comfort  which  might  surprise 
those  who  stay  at  home  and  know  nothing  about  "necessity" 
being  "  the  mother  of  invention."  In  such  a  case  the  lady 
may  be  seen  comfortably  sitting  at  her  needle,  with  her  work- 
bag  and  other  conveniences  suspended  on  the  inside  of  the 
waggon,  whilst  her  husband  is  looking  after  the  men  and  the 
cattle,  or,  if  all  be  right,  quietly  reading  a  book. 

When  intended  only  for  short  journeys,  the  African  travelling 
waggon  is  constructed  on  a  somewhat  different  principle,  and  is 
made  as  light  as  is  consistent  with  a  due  regard  to  strength. 
It  is  then  sometimes  drawn  by  six  or  eight  horses,  harnessed  in 
the  simplest  possible  manner ;  one  man  holding  the  reins  while 
another  wields  a  tremendous  whip,  which  urges  on  the  fiery 
steeds  at  a  rapid  rate.  But  the  heavy  lumberly  ox-waggon 
described  above  is  generally  used  for  heavy  loads  and  long 
journeys.  It  is  drawn  by  a  span  of  oxen  varying  in  number 
from  twelve  to  eighteen,  according  to  circumstances.  These 
are  frequently  all  of  one  colour,  or  otherwise  resembling  each 
other,  and  look  very  pretty  wdien  in  good  condition.  The  two 
w^heelers  are  yoked  to  a  pole  projecting  from  the  front  of  the 
waggon  called  the  "  dizelohoom,'"  and  the  rest  to  a  long  rope  or 
cable  secured  to  that,  called  the  "  trek-tow.''''  Three  men  are 
required  to  each  waggon, — the  driver,  the  leader,  and  a  man  to 
take  care  of  the  spare  cattle,  or  slaughter  "  vee"  and  to  assist 
at  the  "  outspannings."  The  average  rate  of  travelling  is  about 
three  miles  an  hour. 

Such  was  the  character  of  our  equipment,  on  the  occasion  of 
my  first  journey  into  the  interior,  to  which  I  must  now  return 
after  this  descriptive  digression.  Everything  being  ready,  we 
took  our  places  in  the  waggon ;  the  driver  mounted  the  fore 

L   L 


514       PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

kist,  cracked  his  tremendous  whip,  and  off  we  went  at  a  lively 
pace,  the  oxen  being  fresh  and  in  good  condition.  Before  the 
break  of  day  we  passed  through  Tenington  Grove  ;  and  began 
to  ascend  the  steep  winding  road  which  has  been  formed  at 
great  expense  through  a  kloof  now  generally  known  by  the 
dignified  name  of  Sir  Lowry's  Pass,  in  honour  of  Sir  Lowry 
Cole,  under  whose  auspices,  as  Governor  of  the  Colony,  this 
improvement  was  made,  chiefly  by  convict  labour.  We 
observed  the  course  of  the  old  road,  which  was  steep  and 
rugged  in  the  extreme ;  and  it  appeared  almost  incredible  that  a 
loaded  waggon  could  ever  have  been  dragged  up  the  almost 
perpendicular  rocky  track  on  which  we  gazed  with  surprise ; 
but  we  were  assured  that  this  was  the  only  path  through  the 
IQoof  before  the  formation  of  the  new  road.  On  reaching  the 
summit  of  the  first  rocky  ridge,  the  sun  was  just  rising  above 
the  still  more  distant  mountains ;  and  on  looking  down  upon 
the  country  we  had  traversed,  we  had  one  of  the  most  splendid 
prospects  that  I  ever  beheld.  Beyond  the  vast  expanse  of 
water  formed  by  an  inlet  of  the  ocean  terminating  in  False  Bay, 
which  was  now  glittering  in  the  rays  of  the  rising  sun,  we  could 
distinguish  Simon's  Town,  Kalk  Bay,  and  Muzenberg,  with  the 
rocky  heights  behind  terminating  in  Table  Mountain  in  the 
far  distance,  whilst  the  beautiful  village  of  Somerset  (West)  lay 
slumbering  in  the  valley  below.  As  we  proceeded  onward  in 
our  journey,  an  extensive  country  was  opened  to  our  view  to 
the  eastward,  embracing  the  valley  of  the  Palmete  River,  and 
the  roads  leading  to  Caledon  and  Swellendam.  On  coming  to 
a  stream  of  water  which  crossed  our  path,  and  finding  that  our 
oxen  were  somewhat  fatigued,  we  outspanned  for  breakfast. 

The  outspanning  is  an  interesting  incident  in  a  journey  by 
ox-waggon  in  Southern  Africa.  It  is  necessary  for  the  refresh- 
ment both  of  man  and  beast,  and  takes  place  in  the  following 
manner.  When  the  patient  animals  have  toiled  at  their  weary 
task  of  dragging  along  the  ponderous  vehicle  for  three  or  four 
hours,  they  give  unmistakeable  intimations  of  a  desire  for  a 
respite ;  but  a  judicious  traveller  will  carefully  look  out  for  a 
green  spot  in  the  wilderness,  where  there  is  water  and  grass, 
before  he  gives  the  word  to  his  men  to  outspan.     This  being 


CHAP.    V. — FIRST    JOURNEY   TO   THE    INTERIOR.         515 

done,  the  oxen  are  separated  from  the  yoke,  and  soon  find  their 
way  first  to  the  water,  and  then  to  the  best  grazing  ground  that 
the  country  aff'ords.  In  the  mean  time  a  few  sticks  are  col- 
lected, a  fire  kindled,  and  the  ever- welcome  tea-kettle  is 
suspended  over  it.  The  table-cloth  is  spread  on  the  green  grass, 
or  on  the  top  of  a  smooth  rock,  as  the  case  may  be ;  and,  when 
everything  is  ready,  all  concerned  stand  around  with  hat  in 
hand,  while  the  blessing  of  God  is  asked  on  the  homely  meal. 
To  the  uninitiated,  this  seems  a  strange  pic-nic  mode  of  life ; 
but  we  soon  get  accustomed  to  it,  and  take  it  as  a  matter  of 
course.  When  the  Missionary  and  his  attendants  have  finished 
their  repast,  the  circle  is  formed  for  family  worship,  when  the 
Word  of  God  is  read,  and  prayer  and  praise  offered,  generally 
in  the  native  language  of  the  people.  I  can  call  to  mind  many 
very  happy  seasons  of  this  kind  whilst  travelling  in  the  wilds  of 
Africa  ;  but  those  which  occurred  in  my  first  journey  made  an 
impression  never  to  be  forgotten. 

After  a  halt  of  about  two  hours  the  word  of  command  was 
given,  the  oxen  collected  and  inspanned,  and  we  proceeded  on 
our  journey.  Our  course  was  through  a  country  of  diversified 
aspect,  where  vineyards,  cornfields,  pasture-lands,  and  barren 
heaths  were  strangely  intermingled.  In  the  afternoon  we 
ascended  with  some  difficulty  a  rugged  mountain  path  to  the 
top  of  Newberg,  when  another  extensive  prospect  burst  upon 
our  view  in  the  direction  of  Worcester.  After  outspanning 
repeatedly  during  the  day,  and  descending  by  a  tolerable  road 
into  a  fruitful  and  well-watered  valley,  we  halted  for  the  night 
near  to  the  river  Zondereind  (the  "  endless  "  river). 

Having  attended  to  all  the  duties  connected  with  outspan- 
ning, made  arrangements  to  prevent  the  oxen  from  going  astray 
during  the  night,  and  partaken  of  a  frugal  meal,  we  spent  a  plea- 
sant evening  around  our  camp-fire,  in  singing,  conversation,  and 
prayer.  In  these  exercises  we  were  joined  by  two  Dutch  boers, 
who  were  outspanned  not  far  from  us,  with  their  loads  of 
produce  for  the  Cape  Town  market.  We  retired  to  rest  at  an 
early  hour ;  and  being  fatigued  with  a  long  day's  journey,  I  slept 
much  better  on  this  the  first  occasion  of  my  lodging  in  an 
African  waggon  than  I  expected.  In  fact  we  were  very  com- 
2  L  2 


516       PAET  III. — THE  CAFE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

fortable.  A  little  incident  occurred  during  the  former  part  of 
the  day,  which  may  serve  to  illustrate  the  rude  state  of  society, 
and  the  infrequency  with  which  some  people  attend  a  place  of 
worship  even  at  this  short  distance  from  the  Cape.  On 
approaching  a  farmhouse  where  the  road  had  been  recently 
repaired  with  more  than  usual  care,  and  on  meeting  a  Hottentot 
boy,  we  inquired  the  occasion  of  this  recent  improvement.  In 
answer  to  our  inquiries,  the  boy  related,  in  all  simplicity,  how  a 
child  had  been  born  to  his  master ;  and  that  when  it  became 
necessary  to  have  it  baptized,  his  master  had  the  road  thus 
i^epaired,  that  his  mistress  might  go  to  church  in  the  waggon 
with  her  attendants  on  this  necessary  business. 

Whilst  the  oxen  were  being  collected  and  inspanned,  early  oa 
the  morning  of  Wednesday,  the  25th,  we  lighted  a  fire,  had  each 
a  cup  of  coffee,  and  proceeded  on  our  journey.  After  crossing 
the  river  Zondereind  at  a  rugged  stony  ford,  we  proceeded 
through  a  gently  undulating  country,  with  occasional  farm- 
houses at  a  short  distance  from  the  road.  About  noon  we 
came  to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Brett,  a  gentleman  well  known  tO' 
some  of  our  party ;  and  as  the  day  was  beginning  to  be  very 
warm,  and  as  we  declined  to  make  any  stay,  he  kindly  pre- 
sented us  with  some  ripe  figs,  and  a  basket  of  grapes  from  his 
vineyard,  which  were  very  acceptable.  We  outspanned  for  rest 
and  refreshment  two  or  three  times  during  the  day,  as  usual ; 
and  in  the  afternoon,  on  ascending  an  elevated  ridge,  we  had  a 
fine  view  of  the  valley  of  Boschjesveld,  with  Newmanville  in  the 
distance,  which  we  reached  about  five  o'clock  in  the  evening. 
We  received  a  hearty  Hibernian  welcome  from  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Lindsay,  who  had  been  anticipating  our  visit  with  feelings  of 
real  pleasure ;  and  they  rejoiced  over  our  safe  arrival  at  their 
hospitable  mansion.  The  presence  of  three  Christian  Ministers 
at  this  secluded  spot  was  an  event  so  unusual  that  it  excited 
considerable  interest  among  the  people,  who,  together  with  our 
excellent  host  and  hostess,  did  everything  in  their  power  to 
promote  our  comfort  during  our  brief  sojourn  with  them. 

The  two  following  days  were  spent  in  viewing  the  country, 
conversing  with  the  people,  and  in  looking  over  Mr.  Lindsay^s 
agricultural,  mechanical,  and   mercantile  establishment.     Our 


CHAP.    V. — FIRST    JOURNEY    TO  THE    INTERIOR.        517 

enterprising  friend  ought  to  do  well  for  both  worlds ;  for  I  have 
seldom  met  with  any  one  who  more  fully  exemplified  the 
apostolical  precept,  "  diligent  in  business,  fervent  in  spirit, 
serving  the  Lord."  He  gives  employment  to  a  number  of  poor 
coloured  men  and  their  families,  and,  at  the  same  time,  carefully 
attends  to  their  moral  and  spiritual  welfare. 

Sunday,  the  28th,  was  a  high  day  at  Newmanville.  Early  in 
the  morning  the  native  prayer-meeting  was  held.  In  the  fore- 
noon Mr.  Eidgill  preached  an  impressive  sermon  in  Dutch,  and 
the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper  was  administered.  In  the 
afternoon  I  preached  in  English,  and  baptized  Mr.  Lindsay's 
infant,  after  which  I  attended  the  native  Class  Meeting,  with 
which  I  was  both  pleased  and  profited.  Mr.  Jackson  being  an 
invalid,  and  wishing  to  be  exempt  from  ministerial  duty,  Mr. 
Eidgill  preached  again  in  the  evening.  The  whole  of  the 
•services  were  well  attended,  and  a  gracious  influence  rested 
upon  the  people.  From  what  I  witnessed  this  day,  and  from 
the  observations  which  I  made  during  my  visit,  I  was  much 
impressed  in  favour  of  Mr.  Lindsay's  unwearied  labours  for 
the  good  of  the  people,  and  with  the  necessity  of  something 
being  done  to  secure  a  more  adequate  supply  of  ministerial 
labour  for  this  interesting  station. 

Having  accomplished  the  object  of  our  visit,  and  collected 
such  information  as  might  be  of  service  in  the  future,  early 
on  the  morning  of  Monday,  the  1st  of  March,  we  set  out 
on  our  return  to  Cape  Town.  The  oxen  being  fresh  and 
lively,  we  proceeded  at  a  more  rapid  pace  than  usual  during 
the  forenoon.  As  the  day  began  to  wax  hot,  we  outspanned 
for  an  hour  or  two  at  the  foot  of  a  stupendous  mountain,  and 
whilst  the  oxen  were  grazing  in  the  valley  we  did  ample  justice 
to  the  provisions  with  which  Mrs.  Lindsay  had  so  liberally 
■supplied  us  for  the  journey.  On  proceeding  onward,  in  a  route 
different  to  that  by  which  we  had  come,  the  scenery  became 
grand  and  majestic  beyond  anything  I  had  before  witnessed. 
As  we  ascended  the  mountain  along  a  steep  and  rugged  road, 
we  had  on  our  right  hand  a  deep  kloof  or  ravine,  thickly  studded 
with  gigantic  trees,  and  on  our  left  almost  perpendicular  cliiFs 
towering  above   our  heads.      On   reaching   the   summit,    and 


518       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

commencing  our  descent  on  the  western  side  of  the  rocky 
height,  a  prospect  burst  upon  our  view  of  a  most  charming 
character.  At  the  foot  of  the  mountain  lay  slumbering  in  a 
fertile  valley  the  rural  village  of  I'ransche-Hoek,  and  the  district 
and  hamlet  of  Paarl  stretched  away  into  the  dim  distance  on 
the  one  hand,  and  the  town  and  neighbourhood  of  Stellenbosch 
on  the  other,  whilst  Table  Mountain  reared  its  lofty  head  in  the 
regions  still  beyond. 

We  outspanned  for  the  night  at  Fransche-Hoek,  and  held  a 
profitable  little  meeting  with  a  few  people,  who  soon  collected 
together  on  hearing  that  a  party  of  Missionaries  had  arrived. 
Having  slept  comfortably  in  the  waggon,  we  inspanned  early 
on  Tuesday  morning,  the  2nd,  and  travelled  two  or  three  hours 
before  we  halted  for  breakfast.  Being  anxious  to  get  home  with 
as  little  delay  as  possible,  I  here  left  my  friends  and  the  waggon 
behind,  took  horse  and  rode  to  Stellenbosch,  a  distance  of  eight 
miles,  arriving  just  in  time  to  mount  the  omnibus  for  Cape 
Town,  which  I  reached  in  safety  about  noon,  having  travelled 
upwards  of  forty  miles  since  early  morning.  I  was  much  gratified 
with  this  tour  of  observation,  and  returned  home  thankful  to 
God  for  His  preserving  mercies,  and  glad  to  find  that  all  had 
gone  on  well  at  the  station  during  my  absence. 

Although  favourably  impressed  with  the  character  of  Bosch- 
jesveld  and  other  districts  of  the  Overberg  Country,  as  pro- 
mising fields  of  missionary  labour,  it  was  not  till  several  years 
afterward  that  we  were  able  to  make  more  adequate  arrange- 
ments for  the  religious  instruction  of  the  long-neglected  coloured 
population.  In  the  mean  time  Mr.  Lindsay  was  indefatigable 
in  his  efforts  to  diffuse  the  light  of  the  Gospel,  and  the  resident 
Minister  of  Somerset  (West)  visited  the  place  as  often  as  pos- 
sible. In  the  course  of  his  business  journeys  Mr.  Lindsay 
preached  at  the  villages  of  Lady  Gray,  Eobertson,  and  Mon- 
tique ;  and  from  the  village  of  Swellendam  I  received  a  memo- 
rial signed  by  a  considerable  number  of  intelligent  persons, 
earnestly  pleading  for  a  Wesleyan  Missionary.  These  circum- 
stances, with  other  important  considerations,  led  to  a  second 
journey  to  that  part  of  the  colony,  and  ultimately  to  the  estab- 
lishment of  two  principal  or  central  stations,  some  particulars- 


CHAP.   V. — FIRST    JOURNEY   TO    THE    INTERIOR.         519 

concerning  wliich  may  perhaps  be  most  conveniently  given  here, 
regard  being  had,  in  this  instance,  to  geographical  rather  than 
chronological  arrangement. 

Having  made  arrangements  with  the  Rev.  Joseph  Tindall, 
the  Missionary  for  the  time  being  at  Somerset  (West),  to  pay 
another  visit  to  the  Overberg  Country,  I  left  home  on  Wednes- 
day, the  iSth  of  February,  185  7,  and  travelled  to  Somerset  by 
the  omnibus.  On  my  arrival  in  the  evening  I  found  that  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Tindall,  with  their  usual  kindness  and  forethought, 
had  every  thing  ready  for  our  journey.  After  an  hour  or  two 
spent  in  agreeable  conversation  and  prayer,  we  retired  to  rest 
early,  to  be  ready  for  the  duties  of  the  morrow. 

At  half-past  two  o'clock  on  the  following  morning  we  were 
up,  inspanned,  and  commencing  our  journey  ;  for  this  time  we 
travelled  with  a  covered  spring  cart  and  two  horses,  and  only 
a  Hottentot  boy  to  assist  us.  This  I  found  to  be  a  more  expedi- 
tious and  less  troublesome  mode  of  travelling  for  short  journeys 
than  with  the  lumbering  ox-waggon,  but  not  by  any  means  so 
comfortable  when  a  lodging  is  required  in  the  desert.  On  this 
occasion,  however,  we  travelled  through  from  Somerset  to 
Boschjesveld  in  one  day,  halting  for  a  short  time  every  two  or 
three  hours  to  rest  the  horses,  and  occasionally  to  take  refresh- 
ment. We  took  the  same  road  as  on  the  occasion  of  my 
former  visit,  so  that  a  description  of  the  country  is  unnecessary. 
On  reaching  Newmanville  we  were  again  cordially  welcomed  by 
Mr.  and  ^Irs.  Lindsay,  who  hailed  our  visit  to  their  interesting 
little  station  with  evident  tokens  of  joy. 

On  Sunday,  the  22nd,  Mr.  Tindall  preached,  in  the  morning, 
in  Dutch,  to  a  crowded  and  attentive  congregation.  In  the  after- 
noon I  attended  the  Sabbath  school  and  native  Class  Meeting, 
and  baptized  an  adult ;  and  in  the  evening  I  preached  in  Eng- 
lish, and  administered  the  Sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper. 
This  was  indeed  a  day  of  spiritual  blessing ;  ^nd  I  had  abundant 
cause  to  rejoice  over  the  advancement  and  improvement  of  the 
people  in  general  intelligence  and  Christian  knowledge  since  my 
former  visit  five  years  before. 

Having  made  arrangements  for  a  journey  to  Robertson  and 
Swellendam,  with  a  view  to  collect  information  as  to  the  prac- 


520       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

ticability  of  extending  our  missionary  labours  to  those  places,  I 
left  Nevvraanville  early  on  Monday  morning,  the  23rd  instant, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  Tindall  and  Mr.  Lindsay.  On  this  occa- 
sion we  travelled  by  ox-waggon,  through  the  kindness  of  Mr. 
Lindsay,  who  furnished  the  entire  equipage,  that  our  horses  might 
rest  till  our  return.  During  the  day  we  travelled  through  a 
country  wild  and  rugged  in  the  extreme,  with  signs  of  cultiva- 
tion "  few  and  far  between ; "  and,  having  repeatedly  outspanned 
for  rest  and  refreshment  as  usual,  at  eight  o'clock  p.m.  we 
halted  for  the  night  about  two  miles  from  Kobertson,  after  a 
weary  day's  journey  of  eighteen  hours. 

We  entered  the  village  of  Robertson  at  an  early  hour  the 
following  morning,  and  were  pleased  with  the  situation  and 
appearance  of  the  place.  It  lies  in  a  gentle  hollow,  surrounded 
by  hills  of  moderate  elevation,  and  extensive  farms  in  a  tolerable 
state  of  cultivation.  At  ten  o'clock  a.m.  we  commenced  a 
religious  service  in  the  open  air,  in  connexion  with  laying  the 
foundation-stone  of  a  little  chapel  to  be  built  upon  a  lot  of  land 
secured  for  the  purpose  some  time  before.  Mr.  Lindsay  per- 
formed the  ceremony  of  laying  the  stone,  after  which  he  delivered 
a  very  earnest  address.  Mr.  Tindall  and  I  followed,  and  the 
meeting,  which  was  well  attended,  considering  the  shortness  of 
the  notice,  was  concluded  with  prayer  to  God  for  His  blessing 
on  the  enterprise. 

Having  closed  the  service  connected  with  laying  the  first 
stone  of  our  new  chapel  at  Eobertson,  and  partaken  of  a  hasty 
dinner  by  the  side  of  our  waggon,  we  collected  the  oxen,  in- 
spanned,  and  set  out  for  Swellendam.  Our  cattle  being  fresh 
and  in  good  condition,  we  travelled  at  a  quick  pace  for  six 
hours,  and  then  halted  for  the  night  by  the  side  of  a  brook,  where 
we  found  grass  for  the  oxen  and  wood  for  our  evening  fire.  We 
started  again  early  on  the  morning  of  Wednesday,  the  25th,  and 
travelled  all  day  through  a  wilderness  country,  along  the  base  of 
a  ridge  of  lofty  mountains,  outspanning  occasionally  for  rest  and 
refreshment  for  man  and  beast.  In  the  forenoon  we  saw  a  flock 
of  ostriches,  running  and  flapping  their  wings  at  a  rapid  rate* 
Soon  afterwards  one  of  our  men  shot  a  dukier  deer  which  crossed 
our  path ;  and  thus  we  were  provided  with  a  supply  of  game 


CHAP.    V. — FIKST   JOURNEY    TO    THE    INTERIOR.         521 

which  lasted  for  two  or  three  days.  The  horns  of  the  animal 
were  presented  to  me  as  a  curiosity.  After  a  comfortable  lodging 
in  the  desert,  we  proceeded  forward  at  an  early  hour  on  Thurs- 
day morning,  and  a  scoff  of  three  hours  brought  us  close  to  the 
village  of  Swellendara,  where  we  outspanned  for  breakfast. 

After  attending  to  our  toilet  as  best  we  could  in  the  bush,  we 
took  a  walk  into  the  village,  where  we  spent  the  day  in  visiting 
the  public  schools,  conversing  with  a  Wesleyan  family  or  two,  and 
other  persons  who  had  united  in  a  memorial  for  a  Wesleyan 
Missionary,  and  in  interviews  with  Dr.  Eobertson,  the  Dutch 
Minister,  and  the  Eev.  Mr.  Baker,  the  English  Clergyman,  whom 
wx  found  very  friendly  and  affable.  We  dined  at  the  village 
hotel,  where  we  met  with  some  interesting  company,  which  made 
us  feel  as  if  we  had  returned  once  more  to  the  abodes  of  civiliza- 
tion. Having  obtained  the  information  we  required,  especially 
with  reference  to  a  Mr.  Witstein,  who  had  left  the  service  of  the 
Dutch  Reformed  Church,  and  collected  a  congregation  of  coloured 
persons,  several  of  whom  were  included  among  those  who  had 
asked  for  a  Wesleyan  Missionary,  we  returned  to  our  Avaggon  in 
the  afternoon,  and  immediately  commenced  our  journey  home- 
wards. We  travelled  till  a  late  hour  at  night,  before  we  en- 
camped once  more  in  the  desert.  On  Friday,  the  27th,  we 
travelled  all  day,  occasionally  halting  as  before  for  refreshment ; 
and  in  the  evening  we  reached  the  vicinity  of  Robertson,  where 
we  outspanned  for  the  night.  On  Saturday  morning  we  entered 
the  village,  and  proceeded  to  our  former  place  of  encampment, 
near  the  site  of  the  new  chapel,  where  we  spent  the  day  in  pre- 
paring for  the  Sabbath.  In  the  evening  I  preached  in  English, 
at  the  house  of  Mr.  Greathead,  whilst  Mr.  Tindall  and  iMr. 
Lindsay  were  engaged  in  holding  a  meeting  in  Dutch  in  another 
part  of  the  village. 

Sunday,  the  1st  of  March,  was  a  high  day  at  Eobertson.  In 
the  forenoon  the  congregation  which  assembled  was  larger  than 
any  house  would  accommodate  :  we  therefore  arranged  to  hold 
the  service  in  the  open  air,  by  our  waggon ;  and  at  ten  o'clock 
Mr.  Tindall  preached  an  excellent  sermon  in  Dutch  ;•  after  which 
I  baptized  two  adults,  father  and  daughter,  who  had  been  for 
some  time  under  religious  instruction,  and  who  made  a  good 


522       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

confession  before  many  witnesses.  In  the  afternoon  I  preached 
again  in  English,  and  Mr.  Lindsay  in  Dutch  in  the  evening.  A 
gracious  influence  attended  all  these  services,  and  we  felt  en- 
couraged to  hope  that  much  good  would  result  from  the  faithful 
preaching  of  the  Gospel  in  this  interesting  part  of  the  Lord's 
vineyard. 

At  two  o'clock  on  Monday  morning  the  oxen  were  inspanned, 
and  we  renewed  our  homeward  journey.  We  started  thus  early 
with  the  hope  of  pushing  through  to  Newmanville  in  one  day ; 
but,  although  our  halts  for  rest  and  refreshment  were  as  few  and 
as  short  as  possible,  we  should  have  been  disappointed,'  had  not 
Mrs.  Lindsay,  with  her  usual  forethought,  sent  a  cart  and  horses 
to  meet  us.  Availing  ourselves  of  this  quicker  mode  of  tra- 
velling, we  reached  the  residence  of  our  kind  host  soon  after 
dark,  and  left  the  waggon  to  follow^  the  next  morning. 

On  the  morning  of  Tuesday,  the  3rd,  about  half-past  one 
o'clock,  we  commenced  our  journey  over  the  mountains  with  the 
cart  and  horses  with  which  we  came  to  Boschjesveld.  After  toil- 
ing hard  all  day,  we  reached  Somerset  in  the  evening.  Oa 
Wednesday  morning  I  arose  again  at  an  early  hour,  and  left  by 
the  omnibus  at  half-past  four.  AVe  reached  Cape  Town  about 
ten;  and  after  attending  to  the  business  which  awaited  me,  I 
went  out  to  Kondebosch,  where  I  was  thankful  to  find  my  dear 
wife  had  been  preserved  in  health  and  comfort  during  my 
absence. 

These  repeated  tours  of  observations  to  the  places  which  have 
been  named,  situated  in  the  districts  of  Worcester  and  Swellen- 
dam,  beyond  the  range  of  mountains  which  separates  them  from 
the  Cape,  and  known  as  the  Overberg  Country,  were  not  without 
fruit.  From  the  very  first  I  was  deeply  impressed  with  the  good 
which  had  attended  the  labours  of  Mr.  Lindsay  and  the  occa- 
sional visits  of  the  Missionary  from  Somerset,  and  with  the  fact 
that  a  wide  and  promising  field  of  missionary  labour  was  pre- 
sented to  the  view  among  a  large  population  of  coloured  peo- 
ple, for  whose  religious  instruction  no  provision  was  made  by 
any  other  society.  Por  some  time  w-e  were  prevented  from 
occupying  this  interesting  sphere  of  usefulness  by  the  want  of 
adequate  means,  and  other  circumstances  over  which  we  had  no 


CHAP.   V. — FIRST   JOUfiNEY   TO   THE   INTERIOR.         523 

control.  At  length,  however,  the  way  seemed  to  open  up  before 
us,  and,  with  the  aid  and  sanction  of  the  Parent  Society,  two 
important  principal  stations  or  Circuits  were  organized  and 
entered  upon,  an  account  of  which  may  appropriately  close  the 
present  chapter. 

Robertson,  a  new  village  so  called  in  honour  of  a  venerable 
Doctor  of  Divinity  and  Minister  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church 
of  that  name,  has  already  been  mentioned  in  the  preceding 
account  of  my  missionary  travels.  Although  it  had  only  been 
formed  a  short  time  previous  to  my  visit,  I  counted  one  hun- 
dred houses  already  finished  and  occupied,  whilst  several  others 
were  in  progress  of  erection.  A  good  Dutch  church  had  just 
been  completed,  but  no  Minister  had  been  appointed  to  occupy 
it,  and  no  provision  had  been  made  for  the  religious  wants  of 
the  coloured  inhabitants.  Being  central  to  a  large  native 
population,  employed  on  the  surrounding  farms,  and  a  place 
rapidly  rising  into  importance,  this  appeared  to  be  the  most 
suitable  locality  for  the  residence  of  a  Missionary,  and  the  head 
of  our  first  new  Circuit  in  the  Overberg  Country ;  and  it  was 
accordingly  entered  upon  in  the  year  1859. 

The  first  Missionary  appointed  to  occupy  this  interesting 
sphere  of  labour  was  the  Rev.  Henry  Tindall,  a  man  well 
adapted  for  the  important  position,  so  remote  from  the  super- 
vision and  counsel  of  senior  brethren,  by  his  previous  mission- 
ary training,  and  thorough  knowledge  of  the  Dutch  language, 
in  addition  to  his  other  good  qualities  as  a  zealous  young 
Minister  of  the  Gospel.  Mr.  Tindall  entered  upon  his  work  at 
Robertson  and  the  neighbouring  places  in  the  true  missionary 
spirit ;  and  he  has  continued  to  the  present  time  to  occupy  the 
station  with  credit  to  himself  and  advantage  to  the  people 
among  whom  he  has  laboured.  In  common  with  all  new  enter- 
prises, the  prosecution  of  the  missionary  work  at  this  place  has 
been  attended  with  difiiculties  ;  but  they  have  been  successfully 
encountered,  and  the  Circuit  has  now  attained  to  a  state  of 
order  and  stability  pleasing  to  contemplate.  At  Robertson  a 
commodious  Mission-House  has  been  erected ;  and  the  little 
sanctuary,  the  foundation-stone  of  which  was  laid  on  the  occa- 
sion of  my  first  visit,  is  now  being  superseded  by  an  elegant 


524       PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

and  substantial  chapel  better  suited  to  the  increasing  congrega- 
tion. An  excellent  daj''  school  is  conducted  in  the  old  chapel, 
which  is  henceforth  to  be  used  as  a  school-house;  and  the 
zealous  Native  Teacher,  himself  the  fruit  of  missionary  labour, 
officiates  on  the  Sabbath  as  a  Local  Preacher.  During  the  first 
year  after  the  Mission  was  organized,  fifteen  adults  were  received 
into  the  church  by  baptism,  having  given  satisfactory  evidence 
of  a  sincere  desire  to  tlee  from  the  wrath  to  come,  and  been 
carefully  instructed  in  the  principles  of  the  Christian  religion. 
Each  succeeding  year  has  witnessed  additional  accessions  to  the 
number  of  the  faithful,  and  now  the  congregation  and  church 
would  compare  ftivourably  with  those  of  any  country. 

At  Newmanville  the  good  work  has  been  impeded  by  unfore- 
seen difficulties  ;  and  the  place  being  so  remote  from  the  centre 
of  the  Circuit,  it  has  not  had  that  advantage  from  the  appoint- 
ment of  a  Missionary  which  was  at  first  anticipated.  There 
are,  however,  still  a  few  faithful  followers  of  Christ  united  in 
church  fellowship,  who  are  themselves  remarkable  instances  of 
His  saving  power,  and  who  hail  the  visits  of  the  Missionary 
with  feelings  of  unspeakable  joy.  It  is  hoped  that  brighter 
days  are  in  store  for  this  interesting  out-station.  At  the  rising 
village  of  Lady  Grey,  notwithstanding  the  poverty  of  the  peo- 
ple and  other  difficulties,  a  little  chapel  has  been  erected,  and 
a  blessed  work  of  grace  experienced.  During  the  first  year  of 
the  Missionary's  labour,  seventeen  adults  were  baptized  at  this 
place,  many  of  whom  were  savingly  converted  to  God ;  and, 
since  that  period,  many  more  have  been  added  to  the  church, 
such  as,  we  trust,  will  be  finally  saved.  The  Missionarj*-  has 
also  extended  his  labours  to  the  village  of  Montagu,  where  the 
consistory  of  the  Dutch  Reformed  Church  generously  granted  a 
site  for  a  Wesleyan  chapel,  and  where  an  encouraging  measure 
of  success  has  already  been  realized. 

Adequately  to  supply  so  many  places  remote  from  each  other, 
and  separated  in  some  instances  by  mountain  ranges  and  broad 
rivers,  imposes  a  heavy  tax  on  the  time  and  strength  of  the  Mis- 
sionary ;  but  Mr.  Tindall  has  hitherto  been  wonderfully  sus- 
tained and  blessed  in  his  work.  He  can  now  look  with  pleasure 
upon  a  well  organized  Circuit,  with  good  congregations,  pros- 


CHAP.    V. — FIRST   JOURNEY   TO    THE    INTERIOR.         525 

perous  schools,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty-six  members 
united  together  in  church  fellowship. 

Swellendam  was  the  next  place  occupied  by  the  Wesleyan 
Missionaiy  Society  in  the  Overberg  Country.  Our  entrance 
upon  this  sphere  of  labour  was  under  circumstances  somewhat 
peculiar.  Mention  has  already  been  made  of  a  memorial  w^hich 
I  received  at  an  early  period  from  a  large  number  of  the 
coloured  portion  of  the  population,  earnestly  requesting  a  Mis- 
sionary, to  which  we  were  at  that  time  unable  to  respond  ;  and 
of  the  fact  that  several  of  these  same  people  had  afterwards 
placed  themselves  under  the  care  of  a  Mr.  Witstein,  who  had 
formerly  been  a  Catechist  in  connexion  with  the  Dutch  Ee- 
formed  Church.  In  the  early  part  of  the  year  1862,  this 
gentleman,  wishing  to  withdraw  from  the  position  which  he  had 
taken,  and  remove  from  the  countiy,  made  an  offer  of  his  con- 
gregation, school,  and  premises  to  our  Society,  which  was 
ultimately  accepted,  with  the  concun*ence  of  the  people.  To 
meet  the  emergency,  in  the  month  of  April,  Mr.  John  Thorne,  a 
candidate  for  our  ministry,  was  sent  to  Swellendam,  to  take 
charge  of  the  new  station,  under  the  supervision  of  the  Mission- 
ary at  Robertson. 

Considering  the  novel  and  somewhat  difficult  circumstances 
in  which  he  was  placed,  Mr.  Thorne  gave  evidence  of  a  mea- 
sure of  judgment,  prudence,  and  zeal,  truly  remarkable  for  one 
so  young  and  comparatively  inexperienced.  He  had  succeeded 
in  gaining  the  attachment  and  confidence  of  the  people,  and 
was  in  every  respect  doing  well,  when  he  was  called  to  remove 
to  a  new  sphere  of  labour  in  the  Eastern  Province,  and  the 
Eev.  William  Barber  was  appointed  to  succeed  him  at  Swellen- 
dam. Although  not  in  robust  health,  having  previously 
laboured  in  India,  Mr.  Barber  possessed  some  amiable  qualities 
which  recommended  and  fitted  him  for  his  new  position. 
Naturally  of  a  kind  and  genial  disposition,  and  endowed  with, 
ministerial  gifts  of  a  somewhat  popular  character,  he  won  the 
esteem  and  confidence  of  all  with  whom  he  came  in  contact. 
The  Missionary  was  ably  assisted  by  Mr.  Henry  Geyer,  whose 
services  were  engaged  as  Teacher  and  Local  Preacher;  and 
their  united  labours  were  successful  in  gathering  many  into 


526       PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

the    fold    of    Christ,    fifty-nine    being    reported    as    church 
members. 

More  eligible  premises  had  been  purchased  and  fitted  up  as  a 
chapel,  and  the  hope  was  entertained  that  the  Missionary  and 
his  assistant  would  be  able  to  visit  several  neighbouring  places, 
and  organize  an  extensive  and  important  Circuit,  after  the  plan 
of  Eobertson,  when,  on  the  17th  of  May,  1865,  a  great  part  of 
the  village  of  Swellendam  was  destroyed  by  fire,  and  the  Wes- 
leyan  Mission  premises  were  laid  in  ruins.  This  calamity  has 
put  a  temporary  check  to  the  progress  of  the  work  ;  but  recent 
communications  from  the  Cape  afford  ground  for  hope  that  the 
Mission  premises  will  soon  be  rebuilt,  and  that  this  station  will 
yet  answer  its  original  design  as  a  centre  of  light  and  influence 
to  all  around,  and  ultimately  to  the  regions  beyond. 


CHAPTER  YI. 

SECOND  JOURNEY  TO  THE  INTERIOR. 

Commencement  of  Journey — Malmsbury — Crossing  Berg  River — Heere 
Lodgment — Remarkable  Cavern — Sabbath  at  a  Farm  House — Travelling 
in  the  Wilderness — Ebenezer  Station — Crossing  Elephant  River — The 
Caroo  Desert — Bethel's  Klip — Happy  Sabbath — Namaqua  Messenger 
— Crossing  the  Great  Orange  River — Sand  Fountain — Nisbett  Bath 
— Sabbath  Services — Native  Encampment — Jerusalem — Hoole's  Foun- 
tain— Meeting  around  the  Camp  Fire — Journey  homeward — Poor 
Bushwoman — Norap — Khamiesberg — Snow  Storm — Return  to  the 
Cape. 

At  an  early  period  of  my  residence  in  Southern  Africa,  I 
received  interesting  communications  from  the  Missionaries 
labouring  in  Little  and  Great  Namaqualand,  the  most  distant 
stations  in  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  District.  In  these  com- 
munications they  frequently  sought  my  counsel  and  advice  on 
subjects  connected  with  their  labours,  concerning  which  I  could 
form  but  a  very  imperfect  judgment,  from  want  of  a  personal 


CHAP.    VI. — SECOND    JOURNEY    TO    TUE    INTERIOE.      527 

acquaintance  with  the  country  in  which  they  lived,  and  the 
peculiar  character  of  the  work  in  which  they  Avere  engaged. 
There  were,  moreover,  some  important  matters  pending,  which 
seemed  to  require  my  personal  attention,  and  which  rendered  a 
visit  to  our  most  remote  interior  stations  very  desirable. 

For  some  time  my  numerous  official  and  ministerial  duties  at 
the  Cape  rendered  it  impracticable  for  me  to  leave  home  for  the 
length  of  time  which  would  be  required  for  such  a  journey.  At 
length  the  way  seemed  to  open ;  and  the  necessary  preparations 
having  been  made  on  Monday  morning,  the  4th  of  July,  1853, 1 
left  my  home  at  Eondebosch,  near  Cape  Town,  accompanied  by 
my  friend  Mr.  James  Morris,  who  had  kindly  undertaken  to  be 
my  guide  and  travelling  companion,  A  journey  of  many  hundreds 
of  miles  in  the  interior  of  South  Africa  is  sometimes  attended 
with  considerable  difficulty,  privation,  and  danger ;  and  it  was  not 
without  feelings  of  deep  emotion  that  I  took  leave  of  my  dear 
wife  and  Christian  friends  ;  not  knowing  what  might  befall  me 
in  the  course  of  my  travels  ;  but  I  felt  that  I  could  still  confide 
in  the  God  of  Missions,  who  had  so  wonderfully  preserved  me 
in  other  lands,  and  who  is  unchangeable  in  His  nature, — "  the 
same  yesterday,  to-day,  and  for  ever." 

It  would  have  been  very  pleasant  and  agreeable  to  me,  if  we 
could  have  performed  this  long  journey  by  ox-waggon,  which  is 
certainly  the  most  comfortable  mode  of  travelling  through  the 
wilds  of  Africa,  as  it  affords  ample  accommodation  for  the  con- 
veyance of  stores  and  for  lodging  in  the  wilderness,  as  already 
<lescribed.  But  this  kind  of  arrangement  would  have  occupied 
more  time  than  I  could  conveniently  spare  on  this  occasion.  I, 
therefore,  gladly  availed  myself  of  the  use  of  a  light  covered 
spring  cart,  and  four  horses,  offered  for  the  journey  by  Mr. 
Morris,  with  a  spare  horse,  and  a  native  servant,  to  assist  us  at 
our  encampments. 

The  first  day  we  travelled  about  forty-five  miles  over  the  Cape 
Flats,  leaving  the  little  village  of  D 'Urban  on  the  right,  and 
proceeding  to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Basson,  near  Malmsbury, 
where  we  arrived  just  after  sunset,  apd  where  we  were  enter- 
tained with  the  kindness  and  hospitality  for  which  the  Dutch 
boers,  or  farmers,  are  so  justly  famed  at  the  Cape.    The  foUowiug 


528       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

morning  we  passed  through  the  neat  little  village  of  Malmsbury^ 
at  an  early  hour,  and  ascended  a  considerable  hill,  beyond  which 
we  lost  sight  of  Table  Mountain,  and  proceeded  through  th& 
district  of  Swartland.  The  scenery  now  became  very  interesting, 
assuming  all  at  once  the  majestic  proportions  and  rugged  wild- 
ness  of  the  interior.  On  the  right  hand  and  on  the  left  were 
mountains  of  considerable  altitude,  the  summits  of  which  were 
covered  with  snow ;  whilst  the  low  lands  and  valleys  were  spotted 
with  numerous  farms,  separated  from  each  other  by  extensive 
heaths  of  pasture  land,  covered  in  many  places  with  stunted 
bushes,  but  totally  destitute  of  forest  trees.  Having  outspanned 
several  times  during  the  day,  to  prepare  our  food,  and  allow  the 
horses  time  to  graze,  in  the  evening  we  came  to  Berg  Eiver, 
which  we  crossed  without  difficulty  by  means  of  a  punt  suffi- 
ciently large  to  convey  both  horses  and  cart  over  at  once.  We 
obtained  accommodation  for  the  night  at  the  house  of  Mr. 
Turone,  on  the  northern  bank  of  the  river. 

On  the  morning  of  Wednesday,  the  6th,  we  inspanned  early, 
and,  the  road  being  tolerably  good,  proceeded  on  our  journey  at 
a  rapid  rate.  Our  path  now  led  through  a  long  valley,  skirting 
the  foot  of  an  elevated  mountain  called  Picquet  Berg ;  and  we 
had  a  distant  view  of  a  neat  little  village,  which  bears  the  same 
name,  and  the  last  in  the  colony  in  this  direction.  In  the 
evening  we  reached  the  farm  of  Mr.  Bosman,  where  we  were 
kindly  furnished  with  lodgings,  and  every  thing  we  required  for 
ourselves  and  our  horses.  The  next  morning,  the  good  people 
having  supplied  us  with  a  cup  of  coffee  at  an  early  hour,  and 
presented  us  with  a  loaf  of  bread,  and  a  few  oranges,  we  pro- 
ceeded on  our  journey  through  heavy  sandy  roads,  which, 
together  with  the  dry  state  of  the  country,  and  the  scarcity  of 
grass,  made  travelling  very  difficult.  We  walked  many  miles 
this  day  to  relieve  the  horses  ;  and  about  an  hour  after  sunset  we 
came  to  the  residence  of  Mr.  P.  Van  Zeyl,  where  we  met  with 
a  cordial  reception  and  hospitable  entertainment  for  the  night. 

On  Priday  morning  we  ascended  a  steep  rocky  hill  with  con- 
siderable difficulty ;  and  about  noon  we  outspanned  in  a  fertile 
little  valley,  with  a  beautiful  stream  of  water  running  through 
the  centre.     Here  we  lighted  a  fire,  as  usual,  and  prepared  our 


CHAP.    -VI. — SECOND    JOURNEY    TO    THE    INTEllIOE.      529 

midday  meal,  and  afterwards  read  a  portion  of  Scripture  and 
sang  a  hymn  in  Dutch,  and  offered  up  prayer  and  praise  to  our 
•God,  according  to  usual  custom,  when  time  will  admit.  This  was 
one  of  those  lovely  spots  in  the  wilderness  which  are  occasionally 
met  with,  and  where  we  would  gladly  have  stayed  a  little  longer, 
for  both  men  and  horses  were  weaiy ;  but  the  advancing  day 
admonished  us  to  inspan  and  move  forward.  During  the  afternoon 
we  toiled  on  at  a  slow  pace  through  heavy  sandy  roads  ;  and  in  the 
evening  we  reached  Uitkomts,  the  residence  of  Mr.  H.  Vaa 
Zeyl,  and  a  place  well  known  as  the  Missionaries'  resting  place. 
We  were  received  and  entertained  with  the  kindness  and  hos- 
pitality for  which  this  family  have  always  been  so  famed  ;  and 
on  leaving  the  next  morning  our  stock  of  provisions  was 
replenished,  with  the  addition  of  a  jar  of  butter  and  a  loaf  of 
bread,  of  which  our  hostess  begged  our  acceptance. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  on  Saturday  we  were  overtaken  with 
heavy  rain,  which,  together  with  the  deep  sandy  nature  of  the 
roads  over  which  w^e  had  to  pass,  rendered  travelling  very  un- 
comfortable. The  wind  and  rain  were  so  violent  that  it  was 
with  considerable  difficulty  that  we  lighted  a  fire  and  boiled  the 
kettle,  when  we  outspanned  at  noon.  Having  at  length  pre- 
pared a  comfortable  cup  of  coffee, — our  usual  beverage, — we 
proceeded  on  our  journey  with  renewed  courage,  notwithstand- 
ing the  storm  which  still  beat  in  our  faces.  In  the  evening, 
wet  and  weary,  we  reached  the  farm-house  called  Heere  Lodg- 
ment, *'  Gentleman's  lodgings ;  "  but,  alas  for  us  and  our  poor 
horses  !  Mr.  Foster,  the  owner,  was  from  home  with  his  family, 
and  the  house  was  locked  up.  Near  this  place  is  a  remarkable 
cave,  described  by  the  traveller  Vaillant,  in  which  we  gladly 
took  shelter,  remembering  that  our  Lord  and  Master  had  not 
where  to  lay  His  head.  From  the  numerous  inscriptions  cut  in 
the  rocky  walls  of  this  noted  cavern,  I  observed  that  it  must 
have  been  visited  at  an  early  period.  Besides  the  names  of 
several  esteemed  Missionaries  of  comparatively  modern  date,  I 
noted  the  following:  "Casper  Hem,  1712;"  "  F.  Vaillant, 
1785."  From  a  fissure  in  the  rock  in  the  centre  of  the  cavern 
a  remarkable  tree  projects  its  stunted  branches,  w^hich  hang 
pendent   over    head,    and  in  which    I  counted  seven  birds' 

M   M 


530       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

nests,  the  inmates  of  whicli  kept  up  a  constant  chatter.  We- 
had  just  lighted  a  fire,  and  cooked  part  of  a  wild  buck  which  we 
had  purchased  from  a  native  hunter  returning  from  the  chase, 
when  Mr.  Poster,  having  heard  of  our  arrival,  sent  us  the  key 
of  his  dwelling  house,  to  which  we  gladly  adjourned  after  dark, 
and  where  we  found  accommodation  for  the  night  more  in 
accordance  with  the  name  of  the  place,  than  we  should  have  had 
in  the  dark  damp  cavern  in  which  we  had  taken  shelter  in  the 
mean  time. 

Having  the  use  of  the  farm-house  atHeereLodgment  entirely  to 
ourselves,  Mr.  Morris  and  I,  with  our  Hottentot  servant,  spent  a 
quiet  comfortable  Sabbath  in  religious  conversation,  reading,  and 
prayer.  Neither  were  we  entirely  without  a  congregation  and  op- 
portunities of  doing  good.  Observing  that  a  number  of  labourers 
and  domestics  had  come  in  from  the  field,  and  from  the  out 
place  where  the  farmer  and  his  family  were  staying,  we  collected 
them  together,  to  the  number  of  about  a  dozen  coloured  men 
and  women,  with  whom  we  sang,  prayed,  and  read  the  Scrip- 
tures in  their  native  language,  giving  them  also  such  exhorta- 
tions and  instructions  as  their  circumstances  seemed  to  require. 
I  also  distributed  a  few'  Dutch  tracts,  hoping  that  the  seed 
thus  sown  might  spring  up  and  bear  fruit  after  many  days.  As 
there  was  no  prospect  of  communicating  with  the  Cape  again 
for  several  weeks  to  come,  we  embraced  the  opportunity  of  send- 
ing letters  to  our  friends  from  this  place,  via  Clanwilliam,  a 
village  about  twenty  miles  distant. 

On  Monday  morning,  the  11th,  we  proceeded  on  our  journe}'', 
and  soon  entered  upon  a  tract  of  country  very  thinly  inhabited, 
and  where  a  farm-house  was  scarcely  to  be  seen.  We  occasion- 
ally met  with  a  mat  hut,  however ;  at  one  of  whicli  we  purchased 
a  loaf  of  brown  bread,  which  we  regarded  as  a  valuable  acquisi- 
tion. At  night  we  encamped  among  some  bushes  far  from  any 
human  habitation,  and  where  nothing  was  to  be  heard  but  the 
loud  screaming  of  the  jackal  prowling  about  in  search  of  his 
nightly  prey.  The  air  was  cold ;  but  we  soon  lighted  a  fire, 
with  which  we  cooked  our  evening  meal,  and  around  which  we 
sat  for  several  hours  with  some  degree  of  comfort,  engaged  in 
conversation,  reading,  and  prayer.     At  length  we  wrapped  our 


CHAP.    VI. SECOND    JOURNEY    TO    THE    INTEllIOR.       531 

blankets  around  us,  and  retired  to  rest  in  the  cart,  in  prefer- 
ence to  sleeping  on  the  cold  damp  ground,  which  had  been 
drenched  with  the  recent  storm. 

The  next  morning  we  found  the  surrounding  country  enveloped 
in  a  dense  fog,  so  that  we  were  unable  to  find  our  liorses  for  a 
length  of  time.     After  travelling  about  four  hours  through  deep 
heavy  sand,  w^e  came  to  Ebenezer,  a  station  of  the  Rhenish 
Missionary  Society,  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Elephant's 
River.     Our  German  brethren  have  here  a  good  church,  and  a 
commodious  dwelling-house  for  the  Missionary  and  his  Teacher; 
but  the  huts  of  the  natives  are  very  poor,  and  the  station  has 
had  to  contend  with  many  difficulties,  arising  from  the  unfavour- 
able situation  of  the  place,  and  tlie  sterility  of  the  soil.  SpVe 
were  kindly  received  by  the  Eev.  E.  Juffernbruch,  the  resident 
Missionary,  and  Mr.   Clare,  the  Teacher ;  and  our  own  wants 
and  those  of  our  horses  were  supplied  in  a  spirit  of  true  Chris- 
tian hospitality.     Having  refreshed   and  rested  ourselves,  and 
very  much  enjoyed  an  hour's  conversation  with  these  Christian 
brethren,  we  proceeded  forward  to  the  Elephant's  River,  which 
is  here  about  a  hundred  yards  wide,  and  very  deep ;  but  which 
we  crossed  without  much  difficulty  by  means  of  a  large  boat,  in 
which  we  placed  ourselves  and  the  cart,  our  horses  nobly  swim- 
ming in  our  wake.    After  resting  for  a  short  time  on  the  northern 
bank  of  the  river,  we  inspanned  and  proceeded  on  our  journey. 
We  now  entered    upon  a  wdld  and  dreary  desert  country, 
known  as  the   Karoo  or   Ardevelt,   where  a  human   being  is 
seldom  seen,  and  where  travelling  is  rendered  very  difficult  by 
the  scarcity  of  water  and  grass.     Hitherto  we  had  been  able 
to  obtain  forage  for  the  horses  occasionally  at  the  farm-houses 
which  we  met  with  on  the  road  ;  but  now  we  had  to  trust  to  the 
scanty  herbage  of  the  desert.     Eor  three  days  in  succession  we 
travelled  over  these  desolate  rocky  regions,  halting  occasionally 
during  the  day  to  graze  the  horses,  and  to  prepare  our  food, 
and   at  night  encamping    in   the  bush  in  the   most  sheltered 
situations  we  could    find.     Sometimes  we  had    to  dig  in  the 
bed  of  a  periodical  river  before  we  could  obtain  a  supply  of 
water ;  and  when  procured  it  was  frequently  so  brackish  and 
nauseous,  that  it  was  difficult  to  use  it.     Often  did  I  think,  in 
3  lii  2 


532  PAllT   III. — THE    CAPE    OF    GOOD    HOPE. 

the  course  of  this  journey,  *'  How  little  the  people  of  England 
know  of  the  labours,  privations,  and  sufferings  of  their  Mission- 
aries in  foreign  lands  !  " 

At  length,  having  entered  Little  Namaqualand,  we  beheld 
with  delight,  although  at  a  great  distance,  the  elevated  moun- 
tain range,  the  higliest  of  which  is  Khamiesberg ;  and  about 
sunset  on  the  evening  of  Eriday,  the  15th,  we  reached  Bethel, 
an  out-post  of  the  Lily  Fountain  Mission  station,  where 
the  J\Iissionary  and  most  of  the  people  reside  during  the 
winter  season.  We  were  received  and  entertained  with  true 
Christian  hospitality  by  the  Uev.  John  A.  Bailie  and  his  amiable 
wife  and  family,  who  did  every  thing  in  their  power  to  render 
our  visit  pleasant  and  agreeable. 

This  out-station  takes  its  name  from  a  huge  stone,  about  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  forty  feet  broad,  and  sixty  feet  high, 
which  lies  in  the  centre  of  a  narrow  valley,  and  near  which  the 
Missionaries'  residence  and  chapel  have  been  erected.  By  the 
mouldering  hand  of  time,  or  by  some  convulsive  shake  of  the  earth, 
this  stupendous  boulder  has  been  broken  into  three  nearly  equal 
pieces,  which  are  separated  from  each  other  by  narrow  chasms ; 
but  it  is  still  a  most  striking  and  picturesque  object.  It  was 
beneath  a  projecting  portion  of  this  rock  that  the  venerable 
Barnabas  Shaw,  the  founder  of  the  Mission,  used  to  hold  religious 
services  in  the  year  1819,  previous  to  the  erection  of  the  present 
chapel.  On  one  occasion  an  old  Naraaqua  Chief,  having  heard 
an  explanation  of  the  word  "  Bethel,"  declared  that  from  hence- 
forth this  remarkable  stone  should  bear  that  name,  as  it  had 
often  proved  the  house  of  God  and  the  gate  of  heaven  to  those 
who  had  worshipped  under  its  shadow. 

I  spent  most  of  the  day  on  Saturday  in  conversation  with  Mr. 
Bailie  on  various  matters  relating  to  the  spiritual  and  temporal 
interests  of  this  important  station,  and  especially  in  examining 
a  diagram  of  the  institution  lands,  which  I  had  brought  with 
me  from  the  Surveyor- General's  office  in  Cape  Town,  to  test  the 
respective  boundaries  on  the  spot,  with  a  view  to  a  final  settle- 
ment with  the  Government  of  the  long-pending  question  of  the 
rights  of  the  people.  In  the  afternoon  a  number  of  natives 
arrived  at  the  station  from  a  distance,  some  in  waggons  and 


CHAP.    VI. — SECOND    JOURNEY    TO    THE    TNTERIOE.       533 

some  on  horseback,  to  pay  their  respects  to  "  oud  Mynheer,'* 
and  be  ready  for  the  services  of  the  Sabbath. 

At  an  early  hour  on  Sunday  morning  I  v/as  awoke  by  the 
singing  of  the  natives,  who  had  ah-eady  assembled  in  the 
adjoining  chapel  to  hold  their  prayer-meeting.  I  immediately 
arose  and  joined  them  in  their  devotions.  The  chapel  was  half- 
full  of  people.  The  prayers  were  offered  partly  in  Dutch  and 
partly  in  Namaqua  ;  and,  although  I  could  not  understand  much 
that  was  said,  their  supplications  were  apparently  so  sincere  and 
so  fervent  that  I  felt  it  good  to  be  there.  At  ten  o'clock  I 
preached  to  an  attentive  congregation  of  about  two  hundred 
Namaquas,  Mr.  Bailie  kindly  interpreting.  There  was  an  evident 
manifestation  of  Divine  influence,  and  it  was  a  season  long  to 
be  remembered.  At  the  close  of  the  service  I  read  a  beautiful, 
simple,  and  affectionate  letter,  of  which  I  was  the  bearer,  from 
their  old  friend  and  Minister,  the  venerable  Barnabas  Shaw. 
This  letter  was  written  in  Dutch,  and  addressed  to  the  congre- 
gation ;  and  it  adverted  to  some  incidents  connected  with  his 
first  comiil|^  amongst  them,  when  they  were  sitting  in  heathen 
darkness,  and  to  the  great  change  which  the  Gospel  had  produced, 
with  suitable  exhortations  and  admonitions  as  to  their  future 
conduct.  When  I  presented  the  letter,  after  reading  it  to  old 
Gert  Links,  in  the  name  and  on  behalf  of  the  rest  of  the  people, 
and  charged  him  to  read  it  again  and  again,  tears  stood  in 
many  eyes ;  and,  with  a  heart  evidently  full,  the  old  man  said, 
"  /a.  Mynheer,  imj  vergeten  onze  oude  Leeraars  niet,  maar  icy 
hebben  ze  nog  lief.  Toen  MynJteer  Shaw  is  eerst  onder  ons  geJwmen, 
heeft  hy  ons  eenen  hostelyhen  schat,  meer  kostelyk  dan  goud 
gebragtr  "  Yes,  Sir,  we  do  not  forget  our  old  teachers,  but  we 
love  them  still.  "When  Mr.  Shaw  first  came  among  us,  he  brought 
us  a  treasure  more  precious  than  gold."  In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Bailie 
preached  an  energetic  sermon  in  Dutch,  after  which  ]\Ir.  Morris 
gave  an  exhortation.  In  the  evening  I  preached  again  in  English, 
chiefly  for  the  benefit  of  the  Mission  family  ;  but  I  was  glad 
to  see  most  of  the  natives  on  the  station  present.  This,  also, 
was  a  season  of  blessing,  for  which  we  felt  thankful. 

On  Monday  morning,  the  18th,  we  obtained  a  span  of  fresh 
horses ;  and,  having  been  abundantly  supplied  by  Mrs.  Bailie 


534  PAIIT    III. — THE    CAPE    OF    GOOD    nOPE. 

with  the  necessary  additions  to  onr  store  of  provisions,  we  took 
a  temporary  leave  of  our  kind  friends  at  Bethel,  and  proceeded 
on  our  journey  towards  Great  Namaqualand.  A¥e  had  a  little 
trouble  with  our  new  horses  at  first,  as  some  of  them  had  evi- 
dently not  been  accustomed  to  draw  in  harness ;  but  after  a  while 
we  travelled  along  very  comfortably.  Mr.  Bailie  accompanied 
us  for  a  few  miles,  and  showed  us  the  Society's  flock  of  sheep 
and  goats,  which  were  browsing  on  the  plain  under  the  care  of  a 
native  shepherd.  In  the  evening  we  outspanned  in  a  nice 
sheltered  spot,  called  Hass  Eevier,  where  we  found  both  grass 
and  water,  as  well  as  plenty  of  fuel  for  our  fire. 

The  next  two  dr.ys  were  spent  in  travelling  through  a  dreary 
desolate  country,  called  Bushraanland,  in  which — after  leaving 
Springbok  Fontein,  where  we  rested  for  an  hour — we  scarcely 
saw  a  human  being,  save  a  wandering  Bushman  or  two,  who 
timidly  approached  our  encampment  to  beg  for  tobacco. 
Having  passed  a  rocky  hill  called  Gezelscaap,  where  we  obtained 
a  supply  of  water  from  a  hollow  in  the  rock,  and  crossed  an 
extensive  plain,  where  a  large  flock  of  deer  were  browsing,  we 
began  to  ascend  the  mountain  range  which  marks  the  track  of 
the  Great  Orange  Eiver. 

After  a  long  and  weary  day's  journey,  we  had  encamped  for 
the  night,  and  were  comfortably  seated  around  our  evening  fire* 
on  Thursday,  the  26th,  when  a  Namaqua  messenger  presented 
himself,  and  handed  me  a  letter  from  the  Eev.  Joseph  Tindall, 
which  I  read  by  the  flickering  light  of  the  fire  as  follows  : — 

^'NiSBETT  Bath,  July  \Wi,  1853. 
"  Dear  Brother, — Your  letter  of  the  1st  of  June  was 
safely  delivered  at  this  place  a  fortnight  ago  ;  and  we  were  all 
glad  to  hear  that  you  were  making  arrangements  to  visit  these 
distant  stations.  We  remember  you  in  our  prayers  to  our  hea- 
venly Father  from  day  to  day,  that  lie  may  bring  you  to  us  in 
health  and  safety.  I  ascertained  a  few  days  ago  that  the  Great 
Orange  Eiver  was  fordable ;  nevertheless,  I  send  a  man  to-day 
to  watch  the  motions  of  the  stream.  Should  it  rise,  he  is 
instructed  to  leave  this  note  in  charge  of  some  one  to  be 
delivered  to  you,  and  return  with  speed  to  let  us  know,  that  the 


CHAP.    VI. — SECOND    JOURNEY    TO    THE    INTERIOR.       535 

boat  may  be  sent  by  waggon  to  be  at  the  river  on  Friday 
morning ;  but,  if  the  river  remains  fordable,  he  is  to  await  your 
arrival,  and  assist  you  in  crossing.  With  considerable  emotion 
we  await  your  approach  to  this  station,  and  we  shall  hail  your 
arrival  with  grateful  hearts.  Sincerely  praying  that  every 
blessing  may  attend  you,  and  with  kind  regards  for  Mr.  Morris, 
"  I  remain,  yours  afiectionately, 
" Rev.  W.  Mo'ider.  "  Joseph  Tindall." 

The  messenger  had  walked  about  eighty  miles ;  and,  he  having 
thus  faithfully  executed  his  commission,  we  felt  in  some  measure 
relieved  from  our  anxiety  as  to  the  state  of  the  Great  Eiver. 
We  arose  early  next  morning,  and  travelled  for  several  hours 
among  the  most  wild  and  rugged  mountain  scenery  that  I  ever 
beheld ;  su^o-esting  to  the  mind  the  idea  of  these  desolate 
regions  being  the  very  outskirts  of  creation.  After  gradually 
descending  into  the  valley  for  several  hours  more,  about  noon 
we  came  in  sight  of  the  long-expected  Great  Orange  Eiver, 
which  we  found  quite  low  and  fordable,  agreeable  to  the  report 
of  Mr.  Tindall's  messenger.  After  outspanning  for  refreshment 
and  rest  fbr  an  hour  or  two,  on  the  southern  bank  of  the  river, 
and  collecting  a  few  pebbles  as  curiosities,  we  crossed  over 
without  any  difficulty,  and  pursued  our  journey  up  the  gentle 
ascent  on  the  other  side. 

On  a  careful  measurement  I  found  the  bed  of  the  Orange 
Eiver  at  this  "  drift,"  or  ford,  to  be  five  hundred  yards  wide, 
and  the  banks  are  lined  with  beautiful  green  trees,  chiefly  ebony 
and  willow,  the  hardest  and  the  softest  of  woods  growing  in 
close  proximity  to  each  other.  This  perpetual  verdure  gives  a 
freshness  to  the  scene  truly  delightful  after  passing  through  the 
barren  wilderness  previously  traversed.  The  mighty  stream  must 
be  a  noble  object,  when  it  fills  its  spacious  bed  from  side  to  side, 
as  is  the  case  for  several  months  in  the  year ;  and  the  process  of 
crossing  must  be  attended  with  considerable  danger  and  diffi- 
culty when  rafts  have  to  be  constructed,  and  native  swimmers 
employed  to  float  the  traveller  and  his  baggage  over.  This  was 
the  only  method  by  which  the  Missionary,  with  his  wife  and 
family  and  waggon  and  stores,  could  formerly  cross  this  great 


536       PAUT  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

river  in  former  years,  till  a  small  boat  was  procured  througli 
the  exertions  of  the  Bev.  B.  Eidsdale  and  the  liberality  of  our 
Cape-Town  friends.  It  has  been  of  essential  service  to  the 
Mission  ;  but,  having  to  be  kept  at  the  Nisbett  Bath  Station,  it 
has  to  be  conveyed  on  a  waggon  a  distance  of  seventy  miles, 
before  it  can  be  used.  Such  are  frequently  the  difficulties  and 
inconveniences  of  travelling  in  South  Africa.  In  our  case,  on 
this  occasion,  Ave  were  providentially  saved  from  the  danger  and 
delay  so  frequently  experienced. 

Having  now  passed  beyond  the  boundary  of  the  Cape  Colony, 
and  entered  Great  Namaqualand,  we  pursued  our  course  for 
several  hours  up  a  gTadual  ascent  of  deep  sandy  road,  till  we 
again  reached  a  considerable  altitude.  Erom  the  scarcity  of 
water  in  these  parts  we  were  obliged  to  keep  travelling  on 
through  most  of  the  night,  with  occasional  short  outspannings, 
to  allow  our  poor  jaded  horses  to  crop  a  little  of  the  scanty  her- 
bage which  these  dreary  regions  afford.  Soon  after  midnight 
we  came  to  a  place  called  Sand  Fontein,  to  which  we  had  long 
looked  forward  with  the  pleasing  hope  of  obtaining  an  ample 
supply  of  the  precious  liquid,  which  is  more  valuable  than  gold 
in  the  African  desert.  But  on  leading  our  five  horses  down  to  the 
fountain,  I  was  bitterly  disappointed  to  find  that  it  only  con- 
tained about  a  bucket  of  dirty  water.  We  used  the  precaution 
of  first  filling  our  teakettle,  after  which  the  thirsty  animals 
plunged  their  mouths  in  all  at  once,  and  soon  drained  the  foun- 
tain dry.  We  took  a  spade  and  cleared  out  the  well  in  the 
hope  that  a  little  more  water  might  filter  into  it,  while  we  were 
lighting  a  fire  and  preparing  a  cup  of  coffee,  which  was  actually 
the  case ;  but  the  quantity  was  so  small  that,  after  allowing  the 
horses  to  drink  as  much  as  they  could  get,  we  inspanned  again 
and  travelled  forward  as  best  we  could. 

When  the  day  dawned,  on  Saturday,  the  23rd,  we  found  our- 
selves in  a  more  favourable  position,  and  we  outspanned  for 
breakfast.  On  resuming  our  journey  I  rode  forward  on  horse- 
back in  advance  of  the  cart  for  several  hours  ;  and  on  reaching*, 
a  place  called  Luries  Fontein,  on  the  margin  of  an  extensive 
plain  where  the  scenery  assumes  quite  a  different  aspect,  I  un- 
expectedly met  the  Bev.  Henry  Tindall  coming  to  meet  us,  with 


CHAP.   VI. — SECOND    JOURNEY   TO    THE    INTEEIOR.       537 

a  native  servant,  and  a  bag  of  grass  for  our  horses.  Mr.  Tindall 
kindly  returned  with  me  to  the  station,  whilst  the  men  went  for- 
ward with  the  grass  to  meet  Mr.  Morris,  who  was  following  Avith 
the  cart  and  horses.  After  travelling  about  ten  miles  further,  we 
reached  Nisbett  Bath,  where  we  were  joined  in  the  evening  by 
Mr.  Morris,  and  where  we  met  with  a  most  affectionate  and  hearty- 
reception  from  the  Eev.  Joseph  Tindall  and  his  excellent  wife, 
who  did  everything  in  their  power  to  make  us  comfortable 
during  our  sojourn  with  them. 

The  Missionaries  who  have  at  different  periods  occupied  this 
station  have  laboured  under  many  difficulties,  arising  from  the 
sterility  of  the  soil,  the  scattering  of  the  people  in  seasons  of 
drought,  the  peculiarities  of  the  Namaqua  language,  and  other 
hinderances  to  the  progress  of  the  work ;  but  it  is  a  pleasing  fact 
that  they  have  not  laboured  in  vain,  or  spent  their  strength  for 
nought.  The  word  preached  has  often  come  with  power  to  the 
hearts  of  the  people ;  and  gracious  outpourings  of  the  Holy 
Spirit  and  genuine  revivals  of  religion  have  sometimes  been  ex- 
perienced which  would  compare  favourably  with  those  of  any 
other  country.  It  is  true  that  from  the  causes  already  stated 
the  work  is  liable  to  fluctuate;  but  a  mere  casual  observer 
traversing  the  country  cannot  fail  to  mark  the  great  change 
which  has  passed  upon  the  people  since  they  received  the 
Gospel. 

On  the  occasion  of  my  visit  to  the  Nisbett  Bath  station,  I 
found  upwards  of  two  hundred  members  united  in  church  fellow- 
ship, and  about  the  same  number  of  children  attending  the 
Mission  school  during  the  most  favourable  seasons  of  the  year. 
Having  anticipated  my  visit,  the  natives  had  come  in  consider- 
able numbers  from  the  out-places  where  they  had  been  staying 
with  their  cattle  on  account  of  the  drought.  I  counted  as  many 
as  thirteen  waggons,  all  belonging  to  the  natives.  Some  of 
these  had  come  fifty,  and  others  a  hundred  miles,  to  participate 
in  the  services  of  the  Sabbath,  and  to  pay  their  respects  to 
"  oud  Mynheer,"  as  they  are  pleased  to  call  the  General  Super- 
intendent. The  interest  which  the  people  manifest  in  their 
Ministers  istmly  pleasing,  and  forcibly  reminded  me  of  the  affec- 
tion of  the  converted  Negroes  of  Western  Africa  and  the  West 


538       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

Indies  for  those  who  have  brought  to  them  the  glad  tidings  of  sal- 
vation. I  had  scarcely  alighted  from  my  horse  on  Saturday  after- 
noon, when  I  was  surrounded  by  the  people  of  the  station,  who 
were  all  anxious  to  shake  hands  and  to  welcome  my  arrival. 

The  services  of  the  Sabbath  were  also  of  a  most  interesting 
character.  At  the  dawn  of  day  the  native  prayer-meeting  was 
held,  and  was  well  attended.  In  the  forenoon  I  preached  to  a 
large  and  attentive  congregation,  Mr.  Henry  Tindall,  a  young 
Missionary  just  entering  our  ranks,  interpreting  into  Namaqua. 
In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Joseph  Tindall,  his  honoured  father,  con- 
ducted the  service  and  preached  in  Dutch,  the  lessons  and  sermon 
being  rendered  into  Namaqua  by  native  interpreters,  with  whose 
performance  I  was  much  pleased  ;  and  in  the  evening  I  preached 
in  English,  chiefly  for  the  benefit  of  the  Mission  family,  most  of 
the  natives  attending  as  before.  I  was  much  delighted  by  the 
evident  devotion  and  the  sweet  harmonious  singing  of  this  dear 
people ;  and  when  I  considered  their  poverty,  and  saw  such  a 
large  proportion  of  them  very  imperfectly  clothed  with  sheep- 
skins, I  thought  of  the  comfort  and  affluence  of  thousands  of 
British  Christians  who,  I  felt  sure,  would  be  glad  to  assist  these 
poor  Namaquas,  if  they  could  but  witness  their  destitution. 

Having  made  arrangements  to  visit  Hoole's  Fountain,  which 
liad  been  recently  formed  into  a  regular  Circuit  about  seventy- 
five  miles  from  Nisbett  Batli,  I  set  out  about  noon  on  Monday, 
>the  25th,  with  a  waggon  and  oxen  belonging  to  the  station, 
accompanied  by  Mr.  H.  Tindall,  !Mr.  Morris,  and  three  Nama- 
quas. The  road  led  over  an  extensive  plain  till  we  came  to 
Amx  Eiver,  a  periodical  stream,  now  nearly  destitute  of  water. 
Here  we  encamped  for  the  night,  and  proceeded  forward  at  an 
early  hour  next  morning.  Having  heard  that  a  considerable 
number  of  the  people  had  removed  from  the  station  in  conse- 
quence of  the  drought,  we  directed  our  course  to  the  place  of 
their  encampment.  We  found  the  distance  greater  than  we 
expected,  and  did  not  reach  the  icerf,  or  temporary  village,  till 
a  late  hour  on  Tuesday  evening.  Indeed  we  had  some  difficulty 
in  finding  the  place  from  the  darkness  by  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded, till  at  length  we  discovered  the  locality  by  the  barking 
of  dogs,  the  lowing  of  oxen,  and  the  glimmering  light  of  the 


CHAP.    VI. — SECOND    JOUENEY    TO    THE    INTERIOR.        539 

Eight  fires.  When  tlie  people  were  apprised  of  our  arrival,  they 
came  out  of  their  huts,  and  manifested  their  joy  in  every  possible 
way.  Having  conducted  us  with  lighted  torches  to  a  place 
where  the  waggons  might  conveniently  stand,  near  their  tem- 
porary place  of  worship,  they  threw  their  torches  on  a  heap,  and 
lighted  a  cheerful  fire.  V\'e  were  soon  presented  with  an  abundant 
supply  of  new  milk ;  and  having  partaken  of  our  evening  meal, 
the  people  assembled  around  the  fire,  and  we  held  a  delightful 
religious  service.  The  hymns  and  the  prayers  were  in  Dutch ; 
but,  from  the  mixed  character  of  the  congregation,  it  was  thought 
desirable  to  put  the  discourse  before  them  in  English,  Dutch, 
and  Namaqua,  especially  as  it  contained  matters  of  great  im- 
portance both  to  their  temporal  and  eternal  interests.  The 
attendance  was  good,  especially  of  women  and  children ;  and  it 
would  have  been  still  larger,  but,  in  order  to  obtain  a  supply  of 
food,  one  hundred  men  and  ten  waggons  belonging  to  this  party 
had  gone  on  a  great  hunting  expedition  to  a  considertible  dis- 
tance, and  were  expected  to  be  absent  several  weeks. 

After  a  comfortable  night's  rest  in  the  waggon,  we  started 
early  on  Wednesday  morning  on  a  hasty  visit  to  the  respective 
stations  in  this  neighbourhood,  travelling  on  horseback.  A 
rapid  ride  of  two  and  a  half  hours  brought  us  to  Jerusalem,  a 
lovely  little  village,  with  two  good  fountains ;  which  not  only 
afi^ord  an  ample  supply  of  drinking  water  for  man  and  beast, 
but  which  are  also  used  for  the  irrigation  of  several  small 
gardens,  surrounded  by  camel-thorn  trees,  giving  quite  a 
charming  appearance  to  the  place.  Many  years  ago  this  was  a 
station  of  the  London  Missionary  Society  for  a  short  time,  but 
was  relinquished  on  account  of  various  adverse  circumstances. 
It  is  now  an  important  outpost  connected  with  the  Hoole's 
[Fountain  station.  I  examined  the  remains  of  a  dwelling- 
house  built  by  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Albrecht  and  Mofiatt,  and 
advised  the  people  to  repair  the  walls,  construct  a  roof,  and  fit 
it  up  as  a  native  chapel,  that  a  spot  endeared  by  so  many  pleas- 
ing associations  might  still  be  held  sacred  for  Christ  and  His 
Gospel.  We  held  an  interesting  little  service  with  the  people 
in  the  open  air;  and  having  partaken  of  a  cup  of  tea,  which  the 
people  kindly  prepared  for  us  in  an  old  iron  pot, — for  they  had 


540       PART  Til. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

no  kettle, — we  rode  forward  to   Hoole's  Pountain,  wliicli  we 
reached  about  noon. 

Much  as  I  had  been  pleased  with  Jerusalem,  I  was  still  more 
delighted  with  this  place.  The  fountain  is  stronger,  the  garden 
ground  more  extensive,  and  the  surrounding  scenery  grand 
beyond  description.  The  village  is  situated  near  the  bed  of  a 
periodical  river,  in  which  grow  a  number  of  camel-thorn,  ebony, 
and  other  trees ;  and,  at  a  short  distance  beyond,  a  range  of 
table  mountains  rise  to  a  considerable  elevation,  the  horizontal 
summits  of  which  are  fringed  with  the  graceful  Koker-boom. 
The  mud-built  chapel  was  in  a  very  dilapidated  state ;  but  was 
to  be  thatched  anew  and  otherwise  repaired,  when  the  men 
returned  from  their  hunting  expedition.  Arrangements  were  also 
in  progress  for  the  erection  of  a  dwelling-house  for  the  Mission- 
ary, that  he  might  live  among  the  people,  instead  of  having  to 
visit  them  from  Nisbett  Bath.  Having  fixed  upon  the  site  of  the 
proposed  new  buildings,  and  arranged  other  important  matters, 
about  sunset  we  returned  to  our  waggon,  at  the  place  where 
most  of  the  Hoole's  Fountain  people  were  staying  with  their 
cattle ;   having  ridden  about  forty  miles  during  the  day. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  encampment,  we  found  the  people  had 
been  preparing  for  the  evening  service.  The  school  children 
had  collected  a  large  pile  of  faggots  for  the  evening  fire,  and 
their  parents  had  brought  to  the  waggon  more  milk  than  we 
could  use.  By  the  time  we  had  taken  some  refreshment,  the 
fire  was  lighted,  the  people  had  assembled  around  it,  and  we 
proceeded  at  once  to  engage  in  the  solemn  worship  of  Almighty 
God.  This  was,  without  exception,  one  of  the  most  interesting 
religious  services  which  I  ever  attended  in  any  country.  The 
mode  of  proceeding  was  the  same  as  the  night  before,  with  the 
addition  of  a  fellowship-meeting,  at  which  several  of  the  natives- 
gave  a  very  pleasing  account  of  their  religious  experience. 
Never  shall  I  forget  the  emotions  of  my  own  heart,  whilst  gazing, 
upon  this  motley  group  of  natives,  listening  to  the  word  of  life, 
as  the  flickering  glare  of  the  fire  revealed  their  sable  faces  to 
view  in  the  more  distant  parts  of  the  crowed.  When  I  adverted 
to  their  former  state  of  heathen  darkness,  when  the  Afrikaaners, 
under  the  notorious  warrior  Chief  Titus,  before  his  conversion. 


CHAP.   VI. — SECOND    JOURNEY    TO    THE    INTEEIOU.       541 

to  God,  and  the  Bundle-Zwarts,  under  the  Chief  Abram,  met 
in  deadly  conflict  near  the  place  where  we  were  now  assembled ; 
and  when  I  pointed  to  the  contrast  now,  when  Afrikaaners  and 
Bundle-Zwarts,  with  their  wives  and  children,  could  meet  together 
in  peace  and  harmony,  and  mingle  their  voices  in  the  worship 
of  God  without  fear  ;  a  thrill  of  deepest  feeling  seemed  to  vibrate 
in  every  heart,  and  tears  started  in  many  eyes.  It  was  a  scene  on 
which  an  angel  might  have  gazed  with  sacred  joy.  Yea,  I  believe 
the  Lord  of  angels  looked  upon  us  with  Divine  complacency. 

The  next  morning  the  people  w^ere  at  our  encampment  before 
daylight,  as  we  had  promised  to  hold  one  more  service  with 
them  before  our  departure.     We  assembled  in  the  native  chapel, 
as  they  are  pleased  to  call  it,  w^hich  is  nothing  more  than  a 
smooth  spot  of  ground  enclosed  with  a  high  fence  of  bushes, 
to  preserve  it  from  being  polluted  by  the  cattle,  without  any 
covering  overhead,  but  furnished  with  a  pulpit  or  stand  at  one 
side  under  a  shady  tree.     I  counted  about  one  hundred,  men, 
women,  and  children,  assembled  at  this  early  hour,  to  whom 
Mr.  H.  Tindall  preached  in  Namaqua,  and  to  whom  I  gave 
a   parting   exhortation.      I   was    happy   to  learn  that   about 
sixty  of  the  people  on  this   station  were  united  in  church  fel- 
lowship, giving  satisfactory  proof  of  a  sincere  desire  to  flee  from 
the  wrath  to  come.     At  the  close  of  this  early  morning  meet- 
ing we  took  an  affectionate  leave  of  this  dear  people,  who  all 
crowded  around  us  to  shake  hands ;  and,  as  the  waggon  moved 
off,  many  seemed  affected  at  the  thought  that  they  might  see 
our  faces  no  more  in  the  flesh.     Having  travelled  all  that  day 
and  all  the  next  night,  we  mounted  our  horses,  and  rode  for- 
ward to  the  Bath,  which  we  reached  about  noon  on  Friday,  the 
waggon  following  on  afterwards. 

Saturday,  the  30th,  was  spent  in  general  business  engage- 
ments, and  consultation  with  the  Missionaries,  as  to  the  best 
mode  of  carrying  on  the  work  of  God  on  these  remote  and 
peculiar  stations.  On  inspecting  the  Mission  premises,  I  was 
pleased  to  observe  the  improvements  recently  made  by  Mr.  J. 
Tindall,  both  in  the  house  and  chapel,  reflecting  as  they  do 
great  credit  on  the  exertions  of  the  Missionary  and  the  efforts  of 
the  people,  little  expense  having  devolved  upon  the  Society's 


542        PAET  III. THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

funds  thereby.  In  the  afternoon  I  visited  the  burial-ground, 
for  the  purpose  of  viewing  the  graves  of  the  Rev.  E.  Cook  and 
several  children  of  Missionaries.  I  also  inspected  the  warm 
bath,  or  hot  spring,  for  which  this  place  is  so  famous.  I  found 
the  water  almost  as  hot  as  the  hand  can  bear,  at  the  place 
where  it  bubbles  up,  among  the  rocks  at  the  principal  fountain. 
I  returned  by  the  gardens  of  the  Missionary,  and  a  few  of  the 
people,  who  at  the  favourable  season  of  the  year  cultivate  small 
patches  of  ground,  which  present  a  pleasing  object  to  the  view, 
surrounded  as  it  is  by  the  bare  rocks  and  sandy  plain.  In  the 
evening  I  held  a  meeting  with  the  head  men  of  the  tribe,  to  talk 
over  various  matters  relating  to  their  temporal  circumstances, 
and  with  a  view  to  incite  them  to  build  substantial  cottages  in 
the  place  of  their  miserable  mat  huts.  I  promised  to  each 
person  who  should  so  build  within  two  years  a  present  of  a 
small  chest  of  tea,  trusting  to  my  friends  in  England  to  assist 
me  in  this  effort  to  promote  the  temporal  improvement  and 
real  civilization  of  this  interesting  but  long  degraded  tribe  of 
natives. 

My  second  Sabbath  at  Nisbett  Bath  was  spent  in  the  same- 
manner  as  the  first,  the  people  from  a  distance  having  deter- 
mined to  remain  on  the  station  till  our  departure,  although  they 
keenly  felt  the  want  of  food.  In  the  morning  I  preached  by 
interpreter,  after  which  the  sacrament  of  the  Lord's  Supper 
was  administered.  In  the  afternoon  Mr.  Morris  addressed  the 
people  in  Dutch,  one  of  the  natives  interpreting  into  Namaqua ; 
and  in  the  evening  I  preached  again  in  English. 

On  Monday  morning,  the  1st  of  August,  we  had  singing  and 
prayer  in  the  open  air,  in  front  of  the  Mission-Hoi^ise,  where  the 
people  were  assembled  together  to  witness  our  departure ;  and 
about  noon  Mr.  Morris  and  I  took  an  affectionate  leave  of  the 
Mission  family,  and  of  the  dear  people  among  whom  they 
laboured.  Mrs.  Tindall  kindly  replenished  our  store-chest, 
and,  having  been  furnished  with  four  oxen  to  relieve  our 
horses  in  passing  over  the  sandy  roads  of  the  first  stage,  we  once 
more  turned  our  faces  homewards,  being  accompanied  a  few 
miles  by  the  Missionaries  and  a  number  of  the  people.  I  left 
the   stations   in   Great   Namaqualand   with   my  mind   deeply 


CHAP,   VI. — SECOND    JOURNEY   TO    THE    INTERIOR.      543 

impressed  with  their  importance  to  this  part  of  Southern  Africa, 
and  with  the  adaptation  of  the  Missionaries  to  their  peculiar 
sphere  of  labour ;  Mr.  H.  Tindall  having  acquired  a  knowledge 
of  the  difficult  Namaqua  language  to  an  extent  never  before 
realized,  I  believe,  by  an  European  ;  and  Mr.  J.  Tindall,  his 
honoured  father,  having  had  extensive  experience  in  Mission 
work  among  the  natives. 

On  reaching   Luries  Pontein  we  returned  the  oxen  to  the 
station  and  inspanned  our  horses  ;  and,  having  been  supplied 
with  a  small  sheep  from  the  Mission  flock  which  was  grazing 
here,    according   to   the   instructions   of   Mr.    Tindall   to   the 
shepherd,  we  pushed  forward  through  the  whole  night  in  con- 
sequence of  the  scarcity  of  water.     We  halted  for  a  short  time 
on  Tuesday  afternoon  to  slaughter  our  sheep,  and  to  cook  some 
food  for  immediate  use,  which  we  much  required.     Whilst  we 
were  thus  engaged,  there  came  crawling  out  from  the  rocks  a 
poor  Bush-woman,  the  most  miserable  specimen  of  humanity 
that  I  ever  beheld.     She  was  of  dwarfish  stature,  with  arms  and 
legs  attenuated,  and  shrivelled  in  the  extreme.    She  approached 
our  camp  fire  in  a  fearful  timid  manner,  and,  on  seeing  a  few 
pieces  of  oflPal  lying  about  where  the  sheep  had  been  killed,  she 
picked  them  up  and  threw  them  on  the  embers  of  the  fire ;  but 
before  they  could  have  been  well  warmed  she  picked  them  up 
again,  and  ate  them  as  sweet  morsels.     On  seeing  the  state  of 
starvation  to   which  this  poor  creature  was  reduced,  we  gave 
her  some  bread  and  meat,  which  she  devoured  with  a  most 
voracious  appetite.     She  then,  by  signs,  begged  for  the  skin  of 
the  slaughtered  animal,  which  was  hanging  on  a  bush ;  and  on 
its  being  given  to  her,  she  wrapped  it  round  her  almost  naked 
person,  and  walked  off  as  well  satisfied  and  as  proud  as  if  she 
had  been  robed  in  the  most  splendid  mantle.     How  true  is  the 
proverb  which  says,  "  One  half  the  world  scarcely  knows  how 
the  other  half  lives!"  and  how  thankftd  ought  we  to  be  even 
for  the  temporal  blessings  which  the  Gospel  confers  ! 

We  proceeded  on  our  journey  with  as  little  delay  as  possible, 
and  in  the  evening  reached  the  Orange  Eiver,  which  we  crossed 
without  difficulty,  only  breaking  two  spokes  in  one  of  our  cart 
wheels  in  attempting  to  lock  them,  while  going  down  the  steep 


544       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

bank  into  the  stream.  After  repairing  the  damage  we  encamped 
for  the  night  on  the  southern  side  of  the  river. 

After  two  days  of  hard  travelling  through  the  Bushman  Flats, 
by  way  of  Quick  Fontein  and  Reed  Fontein,  during  most  of 
which  I  rode  the  spare  horse  to  lighten  the  cart,  we  came  to 
Norap,  an  out-station  belonging  to  the  Kharaiesberg  Circuit, 
on  the  afternoon  of  Friday,  the  5th.  Here  we  had  appointed  to 
meet  Mr.  Bailie,  and  a  few  of  the  head  men.  A  number  of  the 
school  children  were  assembled  on  the  top  of  a  hill ;  and,  as 
soon  as  we  came  in  sight,  they  communicated  the  intelligence 
to  the  rest,  and  Mr.  Bailie,  and  a  number  of  the  people,  soon 
came  out  to  meet  us. 

We  found  a  large  concourse  of  natives  assembled  together, 
many,  of  whom  had  come  from  a  considerable  distance,  and 
were  anxiously  awaiting  our  arrival.  The  waggons  and  tents 
were  tastefully  arranged  around  the  old  temporary  chapel ;  and, 
although  I  was  somewhat  fatigued,  having  ridden  on  horseback 
about  fifty  miles  a  day  for  the  last  three  days,  there  was  a  con- 
gregation, and  I  must  preach.  So  I  commenced  immediately, 
and  we  had  a  blessed  season.  I  afterwards  examined  the  school 
children,  and  was  well  pleased  with  their  progress  in  learning. 
We  assembled  again  in  the  evening,  when  Mr.  Bailie  and  Mr. 
Morris  also  took  part  in  the  service.  The  native  Teacher,  F. 
Kardennal,  and  good  old  Eva,  his  mother-in-law,  did  every- 
thing in  their  power  to  make  us  comfortable  during  our  stay. 
We  slept  in  a  native  mat  hut  in  preference  to  our  cart,  for  we 
longed  for  an  opportunity  to  stretch  our  weary  limbs  on  the 
ground.  During  the  night  the  pattering  rain  fell  heavily  on 
the  spherical  roof  of  our  frail  shelter ;  but  very  little  found  its 
way  through,  although  constructed  only  of  rushes ;  and  we 
enjoyed  a  good  night's  rest. 

On  Saturday  morning  we  fixed  the  sight  of  the  proposed  new 
chapel  and  other  buildings  to  be  erected,  and,  after  singing  and 
prayer,  attended  to  some  other  matters  of  business  pertaining  to 
the  temporal  welfare  of  the  natives  located  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  this  interesting  out-station,  and  afterwards  sang  a  hymn,  and 
commended  each  other  to  God  in  prayer.  We  then  took  leave 
of  the  people,   and  set  out  for  Khamiesberg,  passing  over  a 


CHAP.  VI. — SECOND    JOURNEY    TO    THE    INTERIOE.       545 

new  road  cut  tliroiigh  the  mountains,  which  displayed  a  piece 
of  engineering  that  reflected  great  credit  upon  the  people,  and 
upon  the  Missionary  under  whose  direction  it  had  been  recently 
accomplished.  It  is  appropriately  called  Bailie's  Pass,  in  honour 
of  the  enterprising  Missionary  who  is  so  earnestly  engaged  in 
seeking  to  promote  the  temporal  and  spiritual  interest  of  this 
people.  In  the  evening  we  arrived  at  the  Lily  fountain  station, 
on  the  top  of  Khamiesberg,  in  the  midst  of  a  snow-storm,  which 
made  the  latter  part  of  our  journey  both  difficult  and  unpleasant. 
In  ascending  the  mountain  our  horses  were  much  fatigued,  and 
one  of  them  fell,  down  and  perished  in  the  snow.  We  pressed 
on,  and  waded  through  it  as  best  we  could,  and  through  the 
kind  providence  of  God  we  reached  the  station  in  safety. 

We  held  the  usual  religious  services  on  the  Sabbath;  but, 
most  of  the  people  having  removed  to  the  Underveld  for  the 
winter  months,  the  attendance  was  small.  After  inspecting  the 
beautiful  new  chapel  now  in  course  of  erection ;  and  attending  to 
other  matters  of  business,  on  Monday  morning  we  descended  the 
mountain  to  Bethel's  Klip,  where  we  found  a  different  climate  to 
that  which  we  had  left  behind.  We  spent  a  pleasant  evening 
in  company  with  Mr.  Dixon  and  other  friends  who  had  come 
from  a  distance  to  meet  us. 

Having  accomplished  the  object  o{  my  visit  to  these  distant 
and  interesting  stations,  on  Wednesday,  the  10th,  we  took  an 
affectionate  leave  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bailie  and  family,  and  the  few 
people  wbiO  were  present,  and  set  out  for  the  Cape.  We  were 
now  blessed  with  favourable  weather;  and  having  travelled  day 
after  day  for  nearly  two  weeks  in  the  manner  already  described, 
I  reached  home  in  peace  and  safety  on  Saturday  evening,  the 
20th  of  August,  truly  thankful  to  God  for  His  preserving  good- 
ness extended  not  only  to  me  in  my  travels,  but  also  to  my  dear 
wife  during  my  absence.  In  this  journey  I  travelled  about 
fourteen  hundred  miles,  and  visited  all  our  stations  in  Little  and 
Great  Namaqualand,  in  seven  weeks, — a  rate  of  travelling  seldom 
surpassed  in  this  country.  I  cannot  close  this  chapter  without 
recording  my  obligation  and  gratitude  to  my  friend,  Mr.  James 
Morris,  who  at  considerable  inconvenience  to  himself  accom- 
panied me  on  this  occasion,  and  who  was  unwearied  in  his  efforta 

N   N 


546       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  01'  GOOD  HOPE. 

to  promote  my  personal  comfort,  and  to  facilitate  tlie  object 
which  I  had  in  view.  The  happy  hours  which  we  spent  together 
in  Christian  fellowship,  prayer,  and  praise,  whilst  travelling  the 
wilds  of  Africa,  far  from  the  abodes  of  civilization,  left  an  im- 
pression upon  my  own  mind  never  to  be  effaced,  and  on  which  I 
have  often  reflected  since  with  pleasure. 


CHAPTER  YII. 

THIRD  JOURNEY  TO  THE  IXTERIOR. 

Voyage  up  the  South-west  Coast — Hondeklip  Bay — Journey  ou  Horseback 
— English  Trader — Bethel — Life  in  the  Wilderness — Lily  Fountain — 
Visit  to  Out-Stations — Silver  Fontein — Springbok  Fontein — Copper 
Mines — Laying  Foundation  Stone  of  new  Chapel  at  Norap — Return  ta 
Khamiesberg — Accident  to  Waggons — Opening  of  new  Chapel  at  Lily 
Fountain — Return  to  the  Cape — Importance  of  interior  Stations — Little 
Namaqualand — Great  Namaqualand — Fruits  of  Missionary  Labour — 
Native  Missionary  INIeeting — The  dying  Namaqua. 

About  two  years  after  my  first  journey  to  Namaqualand, 
several  circumstances  seemed  to  render  it  necessary  for  me  once 
more  to  visit  some  of  our  stations  in  that  remote  part  of 
Southern  Africa.  The  Kev.  Messrs.  Eidgill  and  Thomas  had 
just  received  appointments  to  interior  stations  for  the  first  time, 
and  had  left  the  Cape  with  their  families ;  the  new  chapel  at 
Lily  Fountain  was  nearly  finished,  and  ready  to  be  dedicated, 
and  Mr.  Bailie,  the  resident  Missionary,  was  very  urgent  in  his 
request  that  I  should  try  to  go  and  take  a  part  in  the  opening 
services.  Although  my  ministerial  and  official  duties  at  home 
were  numerous  and  pressing,  and  rendered  it  difficult  for  me  to 
be  absent,  even  for  a  short  time,  I  felt  a  strong  desire,  if  pos- 
sible, to  comply  with  the  wishes  of  my  brethren  and  the  people 
in  the  interior. 

Whilst  I  was  anxiously  considering  what  coui'se  I  ought  to 


CHAP.    VI]. — THIRD    JOUENEY    TO    THE    TNTERIOll.        54-7 

pursue  as  a  matter  of  duty,  I  lieard  of  an  opportunity  of  pro- 
ceeding up  the  South-western  coast  of  Africa  by  water,  a  vessel 
being-  about  to  sail  for  Hondeklip  Eay,  to  take  in  a  cargo  of 
copper  ore.  As  this  mode  of  conveyance  afforded  a  prospect  of 
reaching  Namaqualand  much  more  speedily  than  by  the  slow 
process  of  travelling  by  land,  I  resolved  at  once  to  avail  myself 
of  it;  and  on  the  afternoon  of  Saturday,  the  22nd  of  October, 
1855,  I  went  on  board  the  barque  "Dido,"  accompanied  by 
Charles  Pillans,  Esq.,  who  was  proceeding  to  the  inteiior  on 
business.  The  vessel  worked  out  of  Table  Bay  in  the  course  of 
the  evening,  and  having  a  strong  south-east  wind  directly  in 
our  favour,  by  the  good  providence  of  God  we  reached  our 
destined  port  on  Monday  afternoon,  making  a  passage  which 
was  perhaps  never  surpassed  for  speed  by  any  sailing  vessel. 
In  order  to  cross  the  bar,  and  enter  the  little  bay,  the  navigation 
of  which  is  somewhat  intricate,  owing  to  a  dangerous  reef,  we 
were  obliged  to  leave  the  "Dido"  at  anchor  outside,  and  go  on 
board  the  cutter  "  Eosebud,"  which  conveyed  us  in  safety  into 
the  harbour,  although  she  was  completely  wrecked  in  attempting 
to  perform  a  similar  service  to  another  party  two  days  after- 
wards. I  was  thus  called  upon  once  more  to  acknowledge 
with  heartfelt  gratitude  the  ever  watchful  care  of  my  heavenly 
Father. 

Having  obtained  lodgings  for  the  night  at  the  house  of  the 
storekeeper,  at  an  early  hour  the  following  morning  we  pro- 
cured horses,  and  a  little  Hottentot  boy  as  a  guide,  and  set  out 
for  Bethel's  Klip,  an  out-station  of  our  Khamiesberg  missionary 
institution,  and  distant  from  Hondiklip  Bay  about  forty-five 
miles.  The  day  was  extremely  hot,  and,  having  to  ride  hard 
over  a  heavy  sandy  road,  encumbered  with  some  luggage  and 
our  blankets  strapped  behind  us,  it  was  very  fatiguing  both  for 
man  and  beast.  We  found  it  necessary  to  "off-saddle"  and 
"knee-halter"  more  frequently  than  usual  during  the  day, 
although  the  Avater  was  very  indifferent  at  the  respective  places 
generally  used  for  outspanning.  At  one  of  the  places  where  we 
halted  for  an  hour  or  two  to  graze  our  horses,  I  observed  a  tra- 
veller's waggon,  and,  on  approaching  it  for  the  purpose  of  an 
interchange  of  friendly  greetings  according  to  the  etiquette  of 

2  N  2 


54S       PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

the  African  desert,  I  was  surprised  to  receive  a  hearty  welcome 
pronounced  in  my  own  native  tongue.  The  owner  of  the  waggon 
proved  to  be  an  Englisli  settler  from  Clanwilliam  on  a  trading 
expedition,  and  he  was  evidently  glad  to  meet  with  a  fellow 
countryman  in  the  wilderness.  In  the  course  of  a  brief  conver- 
sation, in  which  I  contrived  to  put  in  a  word  for  my  Master,  the 
English  trader  acknowledged,  with  evident  emotion,  tliat  he 
had  once  known  the  Lord,  and  been  a  member  of  the  Wesleyan 
Society  in  Birmingham ;  but  that  for  many  years  past  he  had 
been  an  unhappy  wanderer  from  the  paths  of  peace  and  righte- 
ousness. I  thought  of  Philip  meeting  with  the  Eunuch  in  the 
wilderness  of  Judea,  and  gladly  would  I  have  acted  the  part  of 
the  evangelist  to  my  countryman  ;  but,  alas  !  I  found  him  not  in 
the  mood  of  an  inquirer  after  truth.  He  invited  me  up  into  his 
waggon,  it  is  true,  but  it  was  not  to  explain  to  him  the  meaning 
of  the  sacred  book,  but  to  taste  of  certain  fiery  fluids  which 
w^ere  suspended  around  him  in  bottles  as  samples,  and  of  which 
he  appeared  to  be  the  vendor.  He  pronounced  his  commodities 
"very  good,"  and  repeatedly  urged  me  to  try  them.  This 
honour -I  respectfully  declined,  and,  notwithstanding  the  vile 
character  of  the  water  and  the  heat  of  the  climate,  I  hesitated 
not  to  hoist  my  colours,  and  declare  myself  a  total  abstainer 
from  all  intoxicating  liquor.  Having  faithfully  exhorted  the 
trader  to  return  with  penitence  and  prayer  to  his  offended 
Father,  we  pursued  our  journey  towards  Bethel,  where  we 
arrived  just  as  the  last  rays  of  the  setting  sun  were  gilding  the 
tops  of  the  surrounding  mountains. 

Bethel  is  situated  on  the  lowlands  of  the  institution,  and 
affords  a  convenient  place  of  residence  for  the  Missionary  and 
the  people,  with  their  herds  and  flocks,  during  four  months  of 
the  year,  when  the  cold  of  winter  prevents  their  remaining  at 
the  principal  station  on  the  top  of  the  mountain,  as  already 
explained.  This  was  the  period  of  the  general  "trek,"  or 
removal  homeward  ;  and  Mr.  Bailie  and  his  family,  not  knowing 
of  my  coming  by  this  route,  had  left  the  place  about  two  hours 
before  we  arrived.  Apprehending  that  this  might  be  the  case, 
we  had  brought  our  blankets  with  us,  strapped  to  our  saddles, 
and  as  we  found  the  school-room  open,  the  natives  prepared 


CHAP.  VII. — THIRD  JOURNEY  TO  THE  INTERIOR.   549 

US  a  cup  of  coffee,  and  we  were  soon  made  quite  comfortable. 
In  the  mean  time  a  messenger  was  dispatciied  on  horseback  to 
inform  Mr.  Bailie  of  our  arrival.  My  esteemed  brother  soon 
returned  to  welcome  me  to  his  station.  We  conversed  on  various 
subjects  connected  witli  the  interests  of  the  Mission  till  a  late  hour; 
and  after  a  short  rest  we  rode  forward  early  the  next  morning  to 
the  waggons  at  the  Missionary's  encampment,  at  a  place  called 
"  Lang  Klip,'*  where  we  found  Mrs.  Bailie  and  family  well, 
and  with  breakfast  prepared  in  anticipation  of  our  coming. 

Having  thus  joined  Mr.  Bailie  and  his  family  with  their 
waggon  on  their  way  to  Lily  Fountain,  I  felt  quite  at  home, 
and  much  enjoyed  the  gipsy  kind  of  life  which  is  necessarily 
connected  with  these  periodical  migrations.  Ths  little  chil- 
dren and  the  domestic  animals  of  the  establishment  seemed 
to  understand  all  about  it ;  and  I  observed  a  hen  with  a 
brood  of  chickens  quite  enjoying  their  liberty  on  being  let 
out  from  their  cage  for  an  hour  or  two  at  the  outspanning, 
taking  good  care,  however,  not  to  wander  far  from  the  waggons, 
to  expose  themselves  to  the  serpents  or  birds  of  prey.  During 
the  following  two  days  we  continued  ascending  the  mountain 
at  an  easy  rate  of  travelling,  the  ladies  and  children  lodging 
in  the  waggons  at  night,  and  the  gentlemen  and  servants 
sleeping  on  the  ground.  We  held  religious  services  with  the 
people  morning  and  evening,  at  our  encampments,  and  fre- 
quently felt  it  good  to  wait  upon  the  Lord ;  and  often,  when 
watching  the  little  twinkling  stars,  or  the  pale  moon  walking 
in  brightness,  as  I  lay  upon  my  sandy  couch,  have  I  thought 
of  absent  friends,  and  home,  and  of  the  prayers  offered  up  to 
God  by  His  people  for  the  poor  Missionary  in  the  wilderness. 

yVe  reached  the  Lily  Fountain  station  on  the  top  of  Kha- 
miesberg,  on  the  evening  of  Thursday,  the  25th;  and  after 
resting  for  a  day  or  two,  and  attending  to  the  services  of  the 
Sabbath,  which  were  truly  refreshing,  the  resident  Missionary 
preaching  in  the  morning,  and  I  in  the  evening,  Mr.  Bailie  and 
I  set  out  on  Monday  morning  on  a  journey  of  four  days,  to 
visit  the  out-stations  and  the  copper  mines.  We  travelled  on 
this  occasion  on  horseback,  accompanied  by  B.  S.  Links,  the 
native  teacher,  with  a  pack-horse  to  carry  our  blankets,  pro- 


550       PART  HI. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

visions,  and  cooking  utensils.  During  the  first  day  we  travelled 
through  rugged  mountain  scenery,  where  the  baboons  were 
gambolling  among  the  rocks,  and  where  no  signs  of  cultivation 
appeared.  Occasionally  we  halted  for  an  hour  or  two,  to  allow 
our  horses  time  to  graze,  when  we  lighted  a  fire  and  boiled  our 
never- failing  camp  kettle,  and,  after  taking  refreshment,  read  the 
Scriptures,  and  united  in  prayer  and  praise.  In  the  evening  we 
came  to  an  experimental  copper  mine  of  the  "  South  African 
Mining  Company,"  on  the  missionary  institution  land  near 
Norap,  which  j\Ir.  Pillans,  my  travelling  companion  from  the 
Cape,  had  come  to  inspect.  The  night  was  bleak  and  cold;  and 
the  superintendent  of  the  works  having  kindly  offered  us  the 
best  shelter  he  had,  we  gladly  availed  ourselves  of  it,  in  prefer- 
ence to  lodging  in  the  open  air,  and  slept  on  the  clay  floor  of 
his  humble  native  hut,  wrapped  in  the  skin  blankets  we  had  taken 
with  us  on  the  back  of  the  pack-horse. 

On  Tuesday  morning  we  continued  our  journey  through  the 
Bushman  Flats,  and  about  noon  we  came  to  a  farm  called 
Silver  Tontein,  where  we  rested  for  a  while,  and  obtained  a 
supply  of  bread,  milk,  and  oranges.  This  place  is  associated 
in  my  mind  with  some  very  melancholy  reflections.  It  is  the 
place  where  the  murderer  of  the  three  missionary  martyrs  of 
Namaqualand,  Threlfall,  Links,  and  Jagger,  was  executed,  as 
stated  in  a  former  chapter.  I  looked  upon  the  grave  of  the 
murderer  with  feelings  of  painful  interest,  and  listened  to  the 
statements  of  the  natives  respecting  that  sad  event  with  deep 
emotion.  Here  also  is  the  grave  of  Mrs.  Sass,  the  pious  wife 
of  a  devoted  Missionary  of  the  London  Society,  who  sank  be- 
neath her  weight  of  sickness  and  sorrow,  and  found  a  resting 
place  in  this  wilderness,  ere  she  had  reached  the  scene  of  her 
intended  labours.  It  was  good  that  it  was  in  the  heart  of  this 
dear  saint  of  God  to  work  for  Him ;  but  He  saw  fit  to  call 
her  thus  early  to  a  better  country.  How  mysterious  are  the 
ways  of  Divine  Providence  !  But  what  we  know  not  now,  we 
shall  know  hereafter. 

In  the  afternoon  we  called  at  Mr.  Kennedy's  farm,  and  had 
a  view  of  the  Enterprise  Company's  experimental  copper  mines, 
which  appeared  to  us  no  more  promising  than  those  we  had 


CHAP.    VII. — TniED    JOUENEY    TO    THE    INTERIOR.       551 

inspected  at  Norap.  In  the  evening  we  reached  Springbok 
Pontein,  where  we  were  kindly  provided  with  lodgings  for  the 
night.  We  found  the  copper  mines  at  this  place,  belonging  to 
?the  company  of  Philip  and  King,  producing  a  large  quantity  of 
excellent  ore,  and  yielding  an  ample  return  for  the  labour  be- 
stowed upon  them,  as  they  have  continued  to  do  for  many  years. 
We  received  the  kindest  attention  and  hospitality  from  Mr. 
Steel,  the  superintendent  of  the  mines,  as  well  as  from  J.  C. 
Eivers,  Esq.,  Acting  Civil  Commissioner  and  Resident  Magis- 
trate. 

Having  finished  our  business  at  Springbok,  on  Wednesday 
morning  we  set  out  on  our  homeward  journey,  travelling  byway 
of  Mr.  Kennedy's  farm  and  Silver  Fontein,  by  which  route  we 
reached  Norap  in  six  hours'  hard  riding.  On  arriving  at  the 
placed  just  named,  we  found  that  the  mat  hut  which  we  had 
formerly  occupied  was  taken  down ;  but  we  contrived  to  erect  a 
temporary  shelter,  under  which  we  slept  with  tolerable  comfort. 

On  Thursday,  the  1st  of  November,  a  large  number  of  people 
'Carae  together  to  attend  the  religious  services  connected  with 
laying  the  foundation  stone  of  our  new  chapel  at  Norap.  Not 
deeming  it  advisable  to  enter  the  old  shed  formerly  used  as  a 
place  of  worship,  and  in  which  I  had  preached  when  I  was  here 
before,  in  consequence  of  its  being  now  infested  with  snakes 
and  other  venomous  reptiles,  we  assembled  outside  in  the  open 
air.  Here  we  sang  a  hymn,  offered  prayer  to  God  for  His 
blessing  on  the  undertaking,  explained  the  object  of  our  meet- 
ing, and  then  walked  in  procession  to  the  site  of  the  new 
chapel  and  Mission  premises,  on  a  gentle  elevation  in  the 
centre  of  a  pleasant  valley.  I  then  read  a  portion  of  Scripture 
in  Dutch,  addressed  a  few  words  to  the  people,  and  at  Mr. 
bailie's  request  laid  the  foundation  stone  in  the  name  of  the  ever 
blessed  Trinity.  The  service  was  concluded  by  fervent  prayer 
and  earnest  exhortation  on  the  subject  of  personal  religion,  and 
on  the  best  means  to  be  adopted  for  the  completion  of  the  new 
chapel,  in  which  Mr.  Bailie  and  Kardanal,  the  native  teacher, 
took  a  part.  Thus  was  this  interesting  ceremony  performed  in 
true  orthodox  form ;  only  we  had  no  silver  trowel  with  appro- 
priate inscription  to  commemorate  the  event,   as  in  England, 


552  TART    III. — TUK    CAIMO    Ol'    GOOD    HOPE. 

but  were  obliged  to  use  a  wooden  one  made  tliat  morning  by 
one  of  the  natives,  and  which  would  no  doubt  have  been  ad- 
mired as  a  curiosity  of  art,  had  it  been  preserved  for  exhibition 
in  a  missionary  museum.  In  the  afternoon  we  set  out  for 
Khamlesbcrg,  where  we  arrived  in  the  evening,  after  a  smart 
ride  of  twenty-five  miles. 

On  returning  to  Lily  fountain,  we  were  glad  to  hear  of  the 
approach  of  our  brethren,  the  Rev.  Messrs.  lUdgill  and  Thomas, 
who  had  left  Cape  Town  with  their  families,  in  ox-waggons, 
two  weeks  before  I  started,  on  their  way  to  their  respective  sta- 
tions in  Great  Namaqualand.  On  Saturday  evening,  Mr.  Rid- 
gill  arrived  at  the  institution,  but  Mr.  Thomas  was  detained  at 
the  foot  of  the  moinitain  by  the  breaking  of  an  axle  of  one  of 
his  waggons.  Having  dispatched  a  number  of  men  with  the 
necessary  assistance  to  repair  the  damage,  and  to  bring  Mr. 
Thomas  and  his  family  up  the  mountain  with  as  little  delay  as 
possible;,  we  prepared  for  the  sacred  services  of  the  Sabbath. 
In  the  morning,  Mr.  Kidgill  preached  an  excellent  sermon  iu 
Dutch  ;  and  we  were  expecting  the  blessing  of  God  on  the 
renuiining  services  of  the  day,  when  a  circumstance  occurred 
which  materially  interfered  with  our  arrangements.  Immedi- 
ately after  wc  had  come  from  the  cha})el,  a  messenger  arrived  to 
inform  us  that  Mr.  Thomas's  other  waggon  had  been  upset  on 
the  previous  evening,  coming  down  a  steep  hill,  and  was  com- 
pletely broken  to  pieces. 

Mr.  Bailie  and  I  immediately  put  on  our  travelling  dresses, 
mounted  our  horses,  and  rode  off  to  the  scene  of  this  sad  dis- 
aster, leaving  instructions  for  a  number  of  men  to  follow  after 
lis  with  a  waggon  and  tools,  &c.,  as  soon  as  possible.  After 
riding  about  fourteen  miles,  we  came  to  the  place  where  the 
accident  had  occurred  ;  and  the  scene  which  presented  itself  to 
our  view  was  calculated  to  move  the  sympathies  of  any  one  who 
has  ever  thought  of  the  poor  Missionary,  in  "perils  in  the 
wilderness."  The  body  of  the  waggon  was  upset  and  sepa- 
rated from  the  wheels,  and  the  road  for  a  considerable  distance 
•was  strewed  with  boxes  and  packages  of  various  kinds,  whilst 
the  Missionary  and  his  family  were  sitting  in  sadness  and  sor- 
row under  a  bush,  where  they  had  taken  shelter  for  the  night, 


CHAP.    VII. — THIRD    JOUKNET    TO    THE    INTERIOR.       553 

when  their  travelling  waggon  was  demolished.  But  whilst  we 
looked  with  sincere  regret  upon  the  wreck  which  was  spread 
before  us,  we  felt  that  it  was  matter  of  gratitude  that  our 
esteemed  brother  and  his  family  were  mercifully  preserved  from 
injury,  being  all  out  of  the  waggon  at  the  time  of  the  accident. 

We  liad  now  to  consider  the  best  means  to  be  adopted  for 
temporary  repairing  the  damage,  so  as  to  get  every  thing  up  to 
the  station  with  as  little  delay  as  possible.  On  examining 
more  minutely  into  the  state  of  things,  we  found  that  the  most 
important  parts  of  the  waggon  were  not  so  much  injured  as  we 
at  first  appreliended.  Having  got  the  different  portions  of  the 
vehicle  together,  and  found  out  what  was  required,  we  sent 
men  into  the  neighbouring  ravine  to  cut  the  necessary  pieces  of 
wood,  and,  after  about  four  hours'  hard  labour,  we  had  the  wag- 
gon repaired,  re-loaded,  and  everything  ready  for  moving  forward. 
35ut  as  the  shades  of  evening  had  now  gathered  around  us,  it 
was  considered  best  to  wait  till  tiie  morning  before  we  began  to 
ascend  the  mountain.  We  therefore  lighted  our  camp  fire,  and 
after  partaking  of  a  little  food,  we  collected  the  people  together, 
and  held  an  interesting  religious  service,  partly  in  Dutch  and 
partly  in  English,  carefully  explaining  under  what  circumstances 
it  is  lawful  in  our  opinion  to  work  as  we  had  been  doing  on 
the  Sabbath  day.  On  the  following  morning  we  moved  for- 
ward at  an  early  hour,  and  about  noon  the  whole  party  reached 
Lily  Fountain  in  safety. 

In  the  afternoon  I  inspected  the  ^Mission  school.  Nearly  two 
hundred  scholars  were  present;  and,  after  they  had  gone 
through  their  various  exercises  satisfactorily,  I  distributed 
among  them  a  number  of  little  presents,  chiefly  useful  articles 
of  wearing  apparel,  with  which  I  had  been  furnished  by  my 
kind  friends  in  Cape  Town  and  in  England.  Not  anticipating 
such  a  large  gathering  of  children  and  young  people,  I  was 
sorry  to  find  that  I  was  not  supplied  with  a  sufficient  number 
of  articles  to  enable  me  to  give  one  to  each  scholar.  When  I 
had  distributed  all  the  preser.ts  I  had  on  this  principle,  there 
remained  seventeen  little  Namaqua  children  for  whom  I  had 
nothing;  and  such  were  their  expressions  of  disappointment 
and  distress,  that  I  would  have  given  twice  their  value  for  the 


554       PAUT  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

required  number  of  articles  ;  but  they  were  not  to  be  had  for 
love  or  money  in  the  interior  of  Africa.  All  that  I  could  do 
•under  the  circumstances,  was  to  write  down  the  names  of  the 
seventeen  disappointed  children,  and  to  promise  to  send  tliem 
each  a  present  when  I  returned  to  the  Cape, — a  promise  which 
I  ultimately  redeemed  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  concerned. 

Tuesday,  the  6th,  was  the  day  appointed  for  the  opening  of 
the  new  chapel ;  and  it  was  a  day  long  to  be  remembered  both 
by  Ministers  and  people.  At  an  early  hour,  the  beautiful  sanc- 
tuary was  filled  with  people,  chiefly  the  native  inhabitants  of 
the  institution,  with  a  few  neighbouring  farmers  and  visitors 
from  a  distance.  At  the  request  of  my  brethen,  I  commenced 
the  morning  service  by  giving  out  the  beautiful  Dutch  hymn 
beginning, — 

"  Halelujah  1  lof  zij  den,  Heer  ! 
Aanbidt  den  Vader,  geeft  Hem  eery 

Den  Schepper  aller  dingen  ! 
Den  roem  van  zijrC  harmhartigheid,  ^ 

Zyn'  wijsheidy  magt,  en  majesteity 
Moet  al  het  sckepsel  zingen  ;  " 

and  after  I  had  read  an  appropriate  portion  of  Scripture  in  the 
same  language,  the  Eev.  J.  A.  Bailie  offered  the  dedication 
prayer,  and  the  Eev.  E.  Eidgill  preached  a  most  impressive  ser- 
mon. In  the  evening  the  Eev.  F.  Welch  preached,  and  the 
Eev.  J.  Thomas  and  Mr.  J.  Mackay  took  part  in  the  service. 
Although  money  is  but  little  known  in  the  interior  of  South 
Africa,  the  people  presented  liberal  and  willing  offerings  on  the 
joyous  occasion  ;  the  collection  at  the  close  of  the  morning  ser- 
vice amounting  to  £16.  4s.  In  the  afternoon,  a  tea-meeting  was 
held  in  the  school-room,  when  several  aged  converted  Nama- 
quas  delivered  interesting  addresses,  in  which  they  adverted,  in 
the  most  affecting  manner,  to  the  great  change,  both  temporal 
and  spiritual,  which  had  taken  place  in  their  circumstances 
since  the  Missionaries  first  came  among  them.  The  new  chapel 
is  in  the  Gothic  style  of  architecture,  and  reflects  great  credit 
upon  the  native  builders,  and  upon  the  Eev.  J.  A.  Bailie,  the 
zealous  Missionary  under  whose  superintendence  it  was  erected. 
It  is  a  solid   stone  structure,  with  massive  buttresses  outside. 


CPIAP.    VII. — THiriD    JOURNEY   TO   THE    INTERIOE.       555 

^nd  neatly  finished  inside  with  plank  floor  ceiling  and  pews 
complete.  It  is  calculated  to  seat  about  six  hundred  persons, 
and  has  been  erected  at  an  expense  of  about  £1,000,  the  whole 
of  which  was  contributed  by  the  natives  themselves,  with  the 
exception  of  about  M20  given  by  a  few  friends  at  the  Cape  for 
the  purchase  of  a  pulpit ;  so  that  there  is  no  remahiing  debt 
upon  the  premises.  It  is  believed  that  no  financial  effort  has 
been  made  on  any  station  by  the  Hottentots  of  South  Africa 
to  surpass  this  ;  and  yet  it  may  be  regarded  as  a  specimen  of 
what  we  may  hope  to  see  on  a  more  extensive  scale  in  many 
other  parts  of  this  interesting  country,  as  the  fruits  of  a  faithful 
Gospel  ministry. 

On  Wednesday  evening  I  met  the  Missionary  and  the  people 
of  the  station  by  appointment  in  the  new  chapel,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  speaking  with  them  on  various  matters  pertaining  to  their 
temporal  and  spiritual  welfare,  and  to  propose  to  them  some 
new  measures  by  means  of  which  it  was  thought  they  might 
render  more  systematic  and  substantial  aid  towards  the  support 
of  the  work  of  God  after  the  completion  of  their  new  sanctuary. 
The  people  appeared  to  enter  into  our  views  in  the  best  possible 
spirit ;  and  I  was  encouraged  to  hope  that  this  our  oldest  Mis- 
sion in  South  Africa,  by  its  continued  prosperity  and  increased 
efforts  towards  self-support,  would  meet  the  anticipations  of  the 
friends  who  had  so  long  taken  an  interest  in  its  welfare.  I  saw 
much  to  gratify  me  in  connexion  with  the  Lily  Fountain  station 
during  my  visit,  as  I  had  done  on  a  former  occasion,  wdien  pass- 
ing through  the  country ;  and  I  observed  with  gratitude  the 
marked  improvement  which  had  taken  place  in  every  department 
•of  the  work  in  the  interim. 

When  preparing  for  my  return  to  Cape  Town,  my  attention 
was  attracted  by  the  ringing  of  the  institution  bell,  to  call 
together  the  head  men  or  native  council,  whom  I  soon  observed 
seated  on  a  grassy  slope  above  the  Mission-House.  On  inquiring 
as  to  the  object  of  their  meeting,  I  was  pleasingly  surprised  to 
learn  that  they  were  making  arrangements  for  my  journey  home, 
so  that  no  expense  might  devolve  on  the  Society.  They  soon 
placed  a  beautiful  span  of  oxen  at  my  disposal,  belonging  to 
various  parties,  which  were  kindly  lent  for  the  occasion,  free  of 


556       PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

cost.  These  were  yoked  to  a  light  waggon  belonging  to  the 
station ;  and  having  commended  the  people  to  God  in  prayer, 
and  fairly  tired  my  right  arm  with  shaking  hands  witli  such  a 
multitude  of  natives,  I  took  an  affectionate  leave  of  them,  as 
well  as  of  Mr.  Bailie  and  his  amiable  wife  and  family,  from 
whom  I  had  received  much  kindness  during  my  sojourn  on  their 
interesting  station. 

I  was  accompanied  on  my  journey  homeward  by  Mr.  John 
Mackay,  with  whom  I  had  much  pleasant  Christian  intercourse- 
both  in  conversation  and  in  worship,  as  we  travelled  along.  We 
had  also  with  us  two  Hottentot  attendants,  to  assist  us  at  our 
encampments.  The  day  was  somewhat  advanced  before  we 
began  to  descend  the  mountain ;  and,  wishing  to  redeem  the  time, 
we  continued  travelling  on  some  time  after  the  shades  of  evening 
had  closed  around  us,  our  men  assuring  us  that  they  knew  the 
road  quite  well.  We  were  proceeding  at  a  rapid  rate  down  a 
gentle  declivity,  when  we  met  with  one  of  those  mishaps  which 
are  not  by  any  means  uncommon  in  the  wilds  of  Africa.  The 
late  rains  and  mountain  torrents  had  completely  washed  away 
the  lower  side  of  the  road,  and  left  a  deep  ravine,  which  we  could 
not  see  in  the  darkness  of  the  night.  On  coming  to  this  the 
waggon  was  completely  upset,  and  we  were  thrown  out  with  con- 
siderable violence.  Providentially  we  were  neither  of  us  much 
hurt,  and  we  set  to  work  immediately  to  try  to  put  things  right. 
On  lighting  the  lantern  we  found  that  no  serious  breakage  had  taken 
place;  but  one  wheel  of  the  waggon  was  off,  and  the  linch-pin 
was  lost.  This  was  our  greatest  difficulty,  as  we  had  nothing 
by  us  with  which  we  could  replace  it.  We  commenced  a  dili- 
gent search  along  the  road,  and  about  a  hundred  yards  up  the 
hill  we  found  it,  to  our  great  joy.  Having  by  our  united  strength 
put  on  the  wheel,  and  replaced  the  body  of  the  waggon,  we 
drew  it  out  of  its  perilous  position,  and  outspanned  for  the  night. 

After  this  we  proceeded  without  any  further  accident,  still 
travelling  a  good  deal  by  night  when  the  moonlight  improved, 
as  we  wished  to  make  haste,  as  well  as  to  avoid  the  heat  of  the 
day.  Having  travelled  assiduously  in  this  way  for  two  weeks, 
I  reached  home  in  peace  and  safety  on  Thursday  evening,  the 
22nd  of  November,  where  I  found  my  dear  wife  in  the  enjoy- 


CHAP.    VII. — THIRD    JOURNEY   TO    THE    INTERIOR.       557 

merit  of  tolerable  health  and  comfort;  and  we  had  once  more 
occasion  to  praise  the  Lord  for  His  preserving  goodness  mani- 
fested towards  us,  wliilst  engaged  in  the  discharge  of  our  respec- 
tive duties. 

Before  we  take  our  leave  of  the  interesting  interior  stations 
which  have  just  passed  under  review,  it  seems  desirable  to  ad- 
vert to  a  few  particulars  concerning  them,  which  could  not  be 
conveniently  brought  out  in  the  brief  narrative  of  my  respective 
visits,  that  the  reader  may  have  a  complete  view  of  the  import- 
ance and  peculiar  character  of  our  work  in  those  distant  regions. 

Little  Namaqualand.  The  Lily  Fountain  institution  on 
Khamiesberg,  in  Little  Namaqualand,  about  four  hundred  miles 
from  Cape  Town,  is  the  oldest  station  of  the  Wesleyan  Mission- 
<iry  Society  in  South  Africa.  It  was  commenced  about  half  a 
century  ago,  as  already  stated,  by  the  Eev.  Barnabas  Shaw; 
and  notwithstanding  many  difficulties,  the  people  have  advanced 
to  a  pleasing  state  of  civilization  and  temporal  prosperity,  as 
well  as  of  religious  knowledge  and  Christian  experience.  The 
station  is  beautifully  situate  in  a  gentle  hollow,  near  the  summit 
of  a  high  mountain.  The  number  of  inhabitants  connected  with 
the  institution  amounts  to  about  one  thousand,  two  hundred  of 
whom  are  consistent  church  members,  with  about  the  same 
number  of  scholars  attending  the  Mission  school.  These  occupy 
lands  set  apart  for  their  use  as  a  distinct  Christian  community, 
and  live  as  one  large  family  under  the  pastoral  care  of  the 
Missionary,  to  whom  they  look  up  as  to  their  father  and  friend. 
All  their  temporal  affairs  are  governed  by  rules  and  regulations 
which  they  themselves  have  adopted,  under  the  judicious  guid- 
ance of  their  Missionaries.  On  the  1st  of  January,  every  year, 
the  people  elect  or  re-elect  six  councillors  and  two  overseers. 
These  form  a  board,  of  which  the  resident  Missionary  is  chair- 
man ;  and  at  their  monthly  meetings  they  arrange  every  thing 
connected  with  public  works,  ploughing,  sowing,  reaping,  and 
watching  the  flocks  and  herds  of  the  community.  They  also 
decide  when  the  people  shall  remove  from  their  mountain  home 
to  the  low  lands,  where  they  are  obliged  to  reside  during  the 
winter  months.  Every  matter  of  dispute  which  may  arise  among 
the  people,  as  the  trespass  of  cattle  on  each  other's  garden 


558       PAUT  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

grounds,  &c.,  is  required  to  be  brought  before  the  council  board 
for  settlement ;  and  it  is  a  pleasing  fact  that,  although  they  have 
the  right  of  appealing  to  the  resident  Magistrate  at  Springbok 
Fontein,  the  station  being  within  the  colonial  boundary,  such  a 
case  scarcely  ever  occurs,  the  people  preferring  to  be  governed 
by  their  own  rules  and  regulations. 

Besides  the  beautiful  new  chapel  already  mentioned,  and  a 
commodious  residence  for  the  Missionary  with  a  school-house, 
workshops,  and  a  few  cottages  belonging  to  the  head  people, 
there  are  not  many  stone  buildings  on  the  stations,  the  people 
generally  preferring  to  live  in  the  native  mat  huts,  which  are 
easily  removed  when  they  have  to  change  the  place  of  their  resi- 
dence. This  has  often  been  matter  of  regret  to  the  Missionaries, 
who  would  like  to  see  the  natives  advanced  to  a  still  higher 
state  of  civilization;  but  there  are  local  circumstances  which 
have  hitherto  prevented  the  erection  of  a  larger  number  of  per- 
manent cottages.  The  natives  make  good  farmers  ;  and,  accord- 
ing to  the  last  returns,  which  I  received  before  leaving  the  Cape, 
there  were  on  the  institution  about  seven  hundred  acres  of 
land  under  cultivation,  and  the  people  possessed  one  hundred 
ploughs,  thirty  waggons,  two  thousand  five  hundred  horned 
cattle,  four  hundred  horses,  and  seven  thousand  sheep  and  goats. 

The  out-station  at  Bethel,  about  thirty  miles  from  Lily 
Fountain,  in  the  low  lands,  where  the  Missionary  and  his  people 
spend  the  winter  months,  has  already  been  described ;  and  a 
placed  called  Kaauwgoed  Vlakte,  about  twenty  miles  in  another 
direction,  is  also  visited  at  stated  periods.  The  most  important 
out-post  connected  with  Khamiesberg  is  Eooi  Fontein,  or 
Norap,  which  has  also  been  repeatedly  mentioned  in  this  nar- 
rative. When  the  new  chapel  was  erected  at  this  place,  and 
certain  lands  secured  for  the  people  in  the  neighbourhood,  a 
hope  was  entertained  that  it  would  become  not  only  the  per- 
manent place  of  residence  for  a  Missionary,  but  the  head  of  a 
missionary  institution  like  Lily  Fountain,  on  a  somewhat 
smaller  scale.  Then  there  would  have  been  two  Missionaries 
and  their  families  in  Little  Namaqualand,  within  twenty-five 
miles  of  each  other,  who  would  have  been  mutual  helps  for 
ministerial  interchange,  and  for  comfort  in  times  of  affliction. 


CHAP.   YII. — ^THIRD    JOURNEY    TO    THE    INTERIOR.       559 

This  view  of  carrying  on  the  work  in  these  remote  regions  was 
fully  sanctioned,  at  one  time,  by  the  Missionary  Committee ; 
but  before  it  could  be  fully  and  permanently  adopted,  some 
untoward  circumstances,  with  the  want  of  an  ample  supply  of 
men  and  means  for  the  District,  prevented  its  accomplishment, 
and  this  extensive  country  is  still  left  to  one  Missionary. 

For  many  years  the  boundaries  of  the  Lily  Fountain  lands 
were  but  indifferently  defined,  and  the  surrounding  Boers  were 
constantly  encroaching,  and  taking  from  the  natives  their  best 
fountains  and  corn  lands.  A  remedy  for  this  evil  had  often 
been  sought,  but  never  obtained ;  and  the  matter  had  assumed 
such  a  serious  aspect,  threatening  the  very  existence  of  our 
station,  that  I  resolved  to  make  one  more  strenuous  effort.  I 
memoralized  the  Government,  got  the  disputed  boundary  line 
surveyed  at  considerable  expense,  which  the  people  willingly 
defrayed  ;  and  finally,  through  the  kindness  of  Lieutenant  Gover- 
nor Darling  and  Charles  Bell,  Esq.,  the  Surveyor  General,  a 
diagram,  and  the  necessary  documents  securing  the  lands  per- 
manently to  the  use  of  the  natives,  were  executed,  and  received 
the  official  signature  of  Sir  George  Cathcart,  the  Governor 
General,  just  before  he  left  the  colony,  and  not  long  before  he 
fell  in  battle  in  the  Crimean  war.  Thus  was  an  important 
question  settled  at  last  in  favour  of  the  natives,  and  the  way- 
prepared,  it  is  hoped,  for  still  greater  progress  in  the  temporal 
and  spiritual  improvement  of  an  interesting  people. 

Great  Namaqualand.  Our  principal  station  in  Great  Na- 
maqualand  is  at  Nisbett  Bath,  about  six  hundred  miles  from 
Cape  Town,  as  already  noticed.  The  work  is  prosecuted  here, 
among  the  tribe  called  Bundle  Zwarts,  under  many  difficulties, 
arising  from  the  sterile  character  of  the  country  and  the  con- 
sequent wandering  habits  of  the  people.  The  only  cultivation 
here  is  confined  to  a  few  small  garden  plots  near  the  warm  bath, 
the  produce  of  which  is  very  scanty,  precarious,  and  uncertain. 
The  Missionary  has  to  send  his  waggons  once  or  twice  a  year 
to  Khamiesberg,  to  procure  corn  to  make  bread  for  his  family. 
In  times  of  drought  the  people  become  scattered  to  a  distance 
cf  thirty,  forty,  or  a  hundred  miles,  in  search  of  pasture  for  tlieiir 
flocks  and  herds.     Before  they  take  their  departure,  the  Mis^ 


560       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

sionary  and  the  native  council  make  the  best  arrangement  they 
can  to  meet  the  spiritual  wants  of  the  people,  by  sending  a 
native  teacher  with  each  company.  These  wandering  hordes 
may  often  be  seen  in  the  wilderness  at  their  encampments  with 
all  the  appliances  necessary  for  the  service  of  the  sanctuary  and 
the  exercises  of  the  school.  The  books  are  brought  out,  the 
children  ply  their  lessons,  the  Scriptures  are  read,  the  word  of 
exhortation  given,  the  hymn  of  praise  is  sung,  and  the  desert 
wilds  frequently  resound  with  the  songs  of  Zion.  When  the 
people  continue  for  several  months  at  their  respective  out-posts, 
and  the  Missionary  and  his  family  are  left  almost  alone  at  the 
Bath,  he  generally  arranges  to  visit  them  at  their  encampments, 
for  the  purpose  of  preaching,  administering  the  sacraments,  and 
renewing  the  quarterly  tickets,  &c.  The  man  of  God  has  now 
to  itinerate  on  horseback,  or  with  his  waggon,  if  his  wife  accom- 
pany him,  a  circuit  of  two  hundred  miles  in  extent ;  and  no  one 
acquainted  with  the  trials  and  temptations  of  the  Christian  life 
will  be  surprised  to  hear  that,  on  the  occasion  of  these  periodical 
visits  of  the  Missionary,  he  is  frequently  called  upon  to  admi- 
nister church  discipline.  Perhaps  the  young  people  have  been 
indulging  in  dancing,  of  which  they  are  very  fond ;  or  other 
serious  faults  have  been  committed,  which  require  admonition, 
reproof,  or  expulsion :  hence  the  liability  to  fluctuation  in  our 
statistical  returns  from  these  interior  stations.  We  have  known 
instances,  however,  where  large  hunting  parties  have  been  absent 
from  the  station  for  several  months,  and  during  their  journeys 
of  hundreds  of  miles  they  have  kept  up  their  worship,  their 
schools,  their  prayer-meetings,  and  class-meetings,  with  such 
good  effect,  that  on  their  return  they  have  reported  an  increase 
of  church  members,  having  experienced  blessed  revivals  of 
religion  during  their  wanderings. 

Hoole's  Fountain,  about  seventy-five  miles  from  Nisbett  Bath, 
is  the  station  next  in  importance  in  Great  Namaqualand.  In- 
deed, with  respect  to  scenery  and  some  local  advantages,  it  is  a 
place  superior  to  the  Bath.  It  is  the  principal  home  of  a  small 
tribe  of  Africans,  with  whom  are  associated  a  number  of  half- 
castes,  vulgarly  called  "  Bastards,"  from  the  other  side  of  the 
Orange  Eiver.     On  the  removal  of  the  Chief  Jonker,  with  a 


CHAP.    VII. — THIRD    JOURNEY    TO    THE    INTERIOR.       561 

number  of  bis  people,  several  years  ago,  to  tbe  borders  of 
Damaraland,  tbe  field  of  missionary  labour  in  this  locality  be- 
came somewhat  circumscribed.  We  have  notwithstanding  had 
a  good  work  going  on  at  different  periods  among  these  people, 
some  of  whom  are  noted  for  their  piety,  intelligence,  and  Chris- 
tian consistency. 

When  the  erection  of  a  substantial  and  commodious  residence 
for  a  Missionary  at  Hoole's  fountain  was  commenced  some 
time  ago,  it  was  hoped  that  this  place  would  become  the  head 
of  an  important  Circuit,  the  Minister  of  which  would  be 
favoured  with  Christian  intercourse  and  occasional  ministe- 
rial interchanges  with  his  brother  at  the  Bath,  and  that  thus 
Great  Namaqualand  would  have  two  Missionaries  for  mutual 
help  and  encouragement,  on  the  same  plan  as  that  already 
indicated  for  Little  Namaqualand.  Had  this  principle  of  con- 
solidation been  adopted  and  carried  out  on  this  and  some 
other  stations,  which  have  been  unfortunately  crippled  for  want 
of  support,  there  is  no  doubt  but  many  evils  would  have 
been  avoided,  and  the  fruit  would  have  appeared  in  time  to 
come. 

Eor  several  years  past  the  work  in  Namaqualand  has  not 
been  so  prosperous  as  formerly.  The  country  has  not  only 
been  afflicted  with  successive  seasons  of  drought,  which  have 
kept  the  people  in  a  scattered  state,  where  they  are  exposed 
to  many  temptations,  but  the  "lung  sickness,"  or  cattle 
plague,  has  been  very  prevalent.  And  that  which  made  the 
case  worse  was,  the  first  appearance  of  the  fatal  malady 
simultaneously  with  the  return  of  the  Missionary  from  the  Cape 
Colony,  conveying  the  idea,  right  or  wrong,  that  he  had 
brought  it  into  the  country  with  his  draught  oxen.  This  cir- 
cumstance unhappily  led  to  a  feeling  of  estrangement  between 
the  people  and  their  Pastor  for  some  time;  but  it  is  to  be 
hoped  that  the  cloud  which  has  for  so  long  hovered  over  these 
interesting  stations  will  be  dissipated,  and  that  the  sun 
of  prosperity  will  again  shine  upon  them.  It  has  been 
sometimes  feared  that  the  repeated  and  accumulated  trials  and 
difficulties  to  which  reference  has  been  made,  might  ultimately 
induce   the   Wesleyan   Missionary    Society   to  withdraw   from 

o  o 


563        PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

Great  Namaqualaiid,  as  the  London  Missionary  Society  did 
several  years  ago.  If  this  should  ever  be  the  case,  it  will  be  a 
dark  day  for  that  country.  Let  us  rather  cherish  the  hope  that 
the  friends  of  Missions  will  come  forward  to  enable  the  Com- 
mittee to  strengthen  these  important  stations,  and  carry  on  the 
work  on  a  scale  more  commensurate  with  the  demands  for  religious- 
instruction  ;  and  then  we  shall  have  reason  to  anticipate  that  for 
prosperity  and  blessing  the  future  will  not  only  be  as  the  past, 
but  much  more  abundant. 

Whatever  may  be  the  course  of  events  in  future,  it  is  matter 
of  gratitude  that,  notAvithstanding  the  difficulties  and  privations 
with  which  they  have  had  to  contend,  the  Missionaries  who  have 
been  successively  appointed  to  Naraaqualand  have  not  laboured  in 
vain,  nor  spent  their  strength  for  nought.  Multitudes  of  sinners 
have  been  savingly  converted  to  God,  an  enlarged  spirit  of 
Christian  liberality  has  been  excited  among  the  people,  and 
many  have  lived  and  died  in  the  faith  and  hope  of  the  Gospel. 

In  connexion  with  every  station  annual  Missionary  Meetings 
are  held,  and  the  people  are  trained,  from  the  beginning,  to  do 
their  utmost  towards  the  support  of  the  Gospel  among  them- 
selves, and  to  help  to  send  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  to  the 
ends  of  the  earth.  On  these  occasions  there  are  sometimes 
remarkable  displays  of  native  eloquence  and  real  enthusiasm  in 
the  good  cause ;  and  although  coined  money  is  almost  unknown 
among  the  people  in  the  interior,  they  give  freely  of  such  things 
as  they  have.  From  the  list  of  offerings  presented  at  the  first 
Missionary  Meeting  ever  held  at  Nisbett  Bath,  the  following  is 
an  extract : — 10  oxen,  3  cows,  1  bull,  2  heifers,  4  calves,  147 
sheep,  59  goats,  and  sundry  skins  and  ostrich  feathers,  the 
proceeds  of  which  amounted  to  the  sum  of  J67  145.  6d.,  in 
favour  of  the  Mission  fund. 

On  the  16th  of  May,  1855,  another  interesting  Missionaiy 
Meeting  was  held  at  Nisbett  Bath,  when  several  of  the  Native 
Teacliers  and  others  took  a  part  in  the  proceedings,  and  spoke 
with  good  effect  to  the  hearts  and  consciences  of  their  fellow- 
countrymen.  The  following  are  a  few  specimens  of  the 
observations  made  on  the  occasion,  as  translated  by  the  Kev.  H. 
Tindall :— 


CHAP.    VII. THIRD    JOUENEY    TO    THE    INTERIOR.       5&3 

Tiraotheus  Sneeuve,  holding;  in  his  hand  a  Eeport  of  the 
"  Cape  of  Good  Hope  District  Auxiliary  Missionary  Society," 
said, — "  I  am  ashamed  of  myself.  I  stand  here  with  sorrow  ; 
for  I  know  that  I  come  very  far  short  of  what  I  once  was.  I 
was  left  in  Damaraland  when  the  Missionaries  were  recalled, 
and  I  became  entangled  with  the  things  of  this  world.  I  fell 
into  the  snares  of  the  wicked  ;  and  I  now  feel  that  my  only  hope 
is  in  the  mercy  of  God.  I  know  this,  that  there  is  salvation 
for  me,  for  the  blood  of  Christ  was  shed  for  me  on  the  cross  j 
and  that  although  I  am  a  sinner,  God  is  willing  to  accept  me 
unto  eternal  life.  This  encourages  me  to  begin  afresh,  and 
leads  me  to  devote  myself  from  this  day  to  the  work  of  God, 
and  to  resolve  that  as  long  as  I  live  I  will  be  His.  This  is 
God's  work.  It  is  His  will  that  all  people  should  know  His 
word.  We  should  be  willing  to  assist  in  this  work.  In  other 
lands  many  people  assist,  and  the  poor  are  the  great  supporters 
of  the  work  of  God.  I  have  seen  what  poor  people  have  done 
in  Cape  Town.  One  will  catch  a  fish,  another  will  sell  some  fire- 
wood, and  another  will  do  a  piece  of  work,  to  get  some  money 
for  sending  the  Gospel  to  the  heathen.  There  you  may  see 
little  boys  and  girls  going  about  with  their  boxes  and  books, 
collecting  money  for  the  Missionary  Society ;  and  this  Eeport 
tells  how  much  each  of  them  gets  in  a  year.  Here  are  their 
names.  Let  us  copy  their  example ;  let  us  labour  to  get 
something  to  give.  This  is  a  work  of  faith  and  a  work  of 
love.  We  know  what  the  Bible  says  :  '  The  Lord  loveth  a 
cheerful  giver.'  We  must  give  in  love.  We  know  what  we 
give  for.  We  give  to  Christ,  and  for  the  support  of  His  ser- 
vants ;  to  buy  their  waggons,  oxen,  and  food,  and  to  send  out 
more.  This  is  not  a  tax,  it  is  a  free-will  offering.  We  give 
not  from  compulsion,  but  from  love." 

Cupido  Kaffir  said,  "  Nobody  drives  me  to  speak.  I  found 
the  desire  from  the  Lord  behind  a  bush.  I  give  every  year, 
but  lose  nothing  by  it.  I  give  to  the  work  of  God.  I  will 
give  with  all  my  heart.  I  want  to  give  something  for 
each  of  my  children,  but  I  fear  I  shall  come  short.  There  is 
that  infant  that  was  baptized  yesterday.  I  should  like  to  give 
something  for  him,  but  I  am  afraid  I  shall  not  be  able.  Since 
2  o  2 


564       PART  Iir. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

I  left  the  world  I  have  been  blessed.  I  have  been  living  with 
the  Missionary.  I  did  not  come  to  live  with  him  through  want, 
but  because  I  felt  it  ray  duty  to  assist  him.  What  was  I  before 
I  came  here  ?  I  was  a  poor,  ignorant  sinner.  I  never  prayed, 
iny  children  were  not  taught,  and  I  lived  without  God.  Now 
I  know  God,  T  pray,  and  my  children  are  taught.  0  that  we 
were  all  praying  people  !  " 

Hendrick  Windstand, — "  I  have  not  much  to  say,  for  I  have 
not  more  knowledge  than  the  elders.  We  have  heard  how  many 
stations,  Missionaries,  members,  teachers,  and  school  children 
there  are  in  our  Society.  We  are  also  numbered.  Our  Mis- 
sionaries are  included.  We  are  all  one.  All  the  stations  have 
one  God,  one  worship,  one  faith,  one  baptism,  and  the  same 
experience.  We  praj^  '  Lord,  appear  in  every  land  ;  send  Thy 
word  to  all  the  people,  to  all  the  heathen.'  For  this  purpose 
we  give,  so  I  understand  it.  Missionaries  have  been  at  great 
labour  and  expense  to  teach  us,  so  that  we  might  know  God, 
and  pray,  and  believe,  and  work  righteousness.  We  cannot 
say  anything  against  giving.  We  are  changed.  Our  former 
feelings,  customs,  and  works  are  changed.  We  have  heard, 
received,  and  believed  the  word  of  truth.  The  Lord  has  given 
lis  understanding.  The  work  is  of  God.  He  first  calls  the 
Missionaries,  gives  them  understanding,  zeal,  and  a  desire  to 
teach  sinners.  They  came  and  taught  us ;  but  at  first  we 
turned  our  backs  ;  then  the  Lord  drew  us,  and  we  became  His 
people.  We  shall  have  no  loss  by  giving  to  God.  All  we 
have  is  given  to  us  by  Him.  It  is  better  to  give  to  God  than 
to  have  Him  take  from  us.  If  we  are  greedy  towards  God,  He 
will  take.  We  must  give  with  willingness  and  consistently 
with  our  prayers." 

Frederick  Matros, — "  I  will  say  my  feelings.  I  will  speak 
according  to  God's  word.  I  do  not  speak  from  learning  or 
much  understanding,  but  fi'om  what  I  feel  in  my  heart.  We 
have  heard  the  numbers  of  all  the  Society,  and  what  these  meet- 
ings are  for.  We  used  to  say,  '  Why  should  I  give  my  cattle  to 
go  away  to  other  people,  when  we  get  nothing  back  for  them  ?* 
We  thought  so,  because  we  did  not  feel  the  truth.  Afterwards 
we  felt  that  Christ  died  for  us ;  then  we  felt  that  we  could 


CUAP.  VII. — THIBD  JOURNEY  TO  THE  INTERIOR.   563 

give  our  oxen,  our  sheep,  and  other  things  ;  and  if  we  give  two 
oxen  and  many  sheep,  yet  we  suffer  no  loss.  We  get  for  them 
what  we  most  need  and  desire,  and  we  want  others  to  get  the 
same, — Bushmen,  and  Kaffirs,  and  Daraaras,  and  all  the  people 
of  the  earth.  I  often  think  I  should  like  to  go  myself,  and  give 
them  the  word  of  God." 

Jan  Ortman, — "  We  have  the  word  of  God  ;  but  it  is  not 
enough  for  us  to  have  it.  If  we  are  praying  people,  we  must 
do  as  we  have  been  done  to.  We  must  give  as  we  have  received. 
Other  people  have  souls  as  well  as  we ;  if  they  do  not  get  the 
word  of  God,  their  souls  will  perish.  Our  possessions  are  all 
God's.  Do  not  think  we  get  anything  from  ourselves.  We  are 
born  naked,  and  so  have  nothing  from  ourselves.  We  must 
help  one  another.  If  we  do  not  give,  we  shall  suffer  loss  our- 
selves, and  be  of  no  use  to  others.  We  must  not  think  we  have 
nothing  to  do  with  others.  We  are  all  God's  work.  Formerly 
our  fathers  were  like  wild  beasts  ;  they  lived  in  the  bush,  wore 
no  clothes,  had  no  waggons,  nor  horses,  nor  guns,  were  ignorant, 
and  were  always  fighting  with  each  other.  What  a  change  do 
•we  see  now!  God  has  done  it.  We  bury  our  dead.  Our 
fathers  used  to  leave  them  for  the  lions  and  jackals.  If  none  of 
you  ever  saw  anything  of  that  kind,  I  have.  I  saw  an  old  woman 
once  left  unburied,  and  the  wolves  came  in  the  night  and  ate 
the  body ;  but  we  did  not  think  anything  about  it.  I  have 
seen  much  poverty  in  the  Cape ;  but  none  of  you  are  so  poor. 
You  can  all  give,  but  you  do  not  want  to  give.  Shame  !  I  know 
you  Bundle  Zwaarts  ;  you  hold  yourselves  as  if  you  were  poor ; 
but  you  are  not  so  poor  as  many  of  the  people  of  other  lands 
who  send  you  the  Gospel.  And  many  of  you  give  poor  and 
little  things.  They  that  might  give  oxen  give  calves  and  sheep, 
and  they  that  might  give  sheep  give  bamboos  and  skins,  and 
they  that  might  give  skins  give  nothing  at  all." 

Job  Witboy, — "  God's  word  is  all.  It  is  only  from  God's  word 
that  I  see.  I  see  nothing  good,  or  great,  or  true  in  the  world. 
All  truth  and  beauty  is  in  the  word.  I  have  tasted  the  good- 
ness of  God  and  the  happiness  of  salvation.  I  got  my  experi- 
ence with  tears.  I  first  felt  for  myself,  and  then  I  began  to  feel 
for  others.    I  desired  that  they  might  feel  what  I  felt.    I  prayed 


366  PART    III. — THE    CAPE    OF    GOOD    HOPE. 

for  them  with  tears,  and  when  I  could  not  send  anything  else  I 
sent  my  prayers.  Think  of  the  state  of  the  heathen.  They 
m-e  blind,  and  though  they  stand  at  the  mouth  of  the  pit,  they 
cannot  see  the  clanger  that  lies  before  them.  Let  us  give  them 
eyes.  We  say  that  we  have  a  willing  heart.  Let  us  tlien  give 
a  proof  of  it,  a  proof  of  our  love,  and  of  the  sincerity  of  our 
prayers." 

At  this  meeting  eighteen  head  of  cattle,  thirty-five  sheep  and 
goats,  ten  shillings  in  cash,  and  eight  wooden  bowls  were 
contributed.  The  spirit  wdiich  characterized  the  entire  proceed- 
ings would  have  done  honour  to  Yorkshire  or  Cornwall. 

But  tlie  best  kind  of  fruit  resulting  from  missionary  labour 
is  seen  in  the  holy  lives  and  happy  deaths  of  converted  natives. 
Many  affecting  instances  might  be  given  did  space  permit.  A. 
few  remarks  in  reference  to  the  last  days  of  one  of  the  oldest 
Namaqua  converts,  with  whom  I  was  well  acquainted,  may 
appropriately  close  the  present  chapter. 

Gert  Links  has  been  already  mentioned  as  one  of  the  elders 
of  the  native  church  at  Lily  Fountain  station ;  and  I  shall  never 
forget  his  earnest,  glowing  address  at  a  public  meeting,  in  which 
lie  contrasted  the  past  and  the  present  state  of  the  tribe  to 
which  he  belonged,  and  the  wonderful  change  which  had  been 
produced  by  the  Gospel.  He  had  long  walked  in  the  way  to 
heaven  as  a  consistent  Christian  ;  and  soon  after  my  last  visit  to 
INamaqualand,  he  sickened  and  died.  He  was  divinely  sustained 
and  comforted  during  a  long  and  painful  illness,  and  he  always 
received  the  visits  of  his  Minister  with  gratitude  and  joy.  When 
old  Gert  felt  that  his  end  was  drawing  near,  he  sent  a  messenger 
to  call  the  Missionary,  as  he  had  something  particular  to  com- 
municate to  him  before  he  died.  Mr.  Bailie  immediately  went 
to  his  hut,  which  was  about  four  miles  from  Bethel ;  on  entering 
which  he  found  the  dying  Christian  happy  in  God,  but  very 
weak.  He  faintly  whispered  that  his  Teacher  was  almost  too 
late,  as  his  speech  had  nearly  left  him.  His  friends  then  raised 
him  up  to  a  sitting  posture,  and  he  proceeded  to  relate  his 
views  and  feelings  respecting  a  future  state  of  being,  and  the 
truth  of  the  Gospel.  I  shall  not  trouble  the  reader  with  the 
strange  jargon  in  which  he  spoke,  but  the  testimony  of  the 


CHAP.    VIII. — CONCLUDING    OBSERVATIONS.  567 

dying  Namaqua,  as  rendered  into  plain  English  by  the  Mis- 
sionary who  visited  him,  was  as  follows : — "  I  have  at  this 
moment  a  particular  impression  of  the  immortality  of  the  soul. 
My  body  is  half  dead ;  I  have  lost  the  use  of  both  legs  and  of  one 
arm  j  and  if  my  soul  were  not  immortal,  it  would  be  half  dead 
also ;  but,  instead  of  that,  I  am  constantly  thinking  of  God  and 
His  service,  and  of  the  love  of  Christ ;  and  I  can  think  with 
great  freedom  and  ease.  I  have  a  special  conviction,  also,  that 
the  Bible  is  God's  book,  and  its  precious  truths  are  constantly- 
running  through  my  mind,  and  afford  me  great  comfort.  I  see 
now  more  clearly  than  ever  that  the  Missionaries  are  not  com- 
mon men,  but  they  are  the  servants  of  God  sent  to  us  by  Him 
to  declare  His  word."  And  then  looking  round  upon  the 
people  who  had  assembled  to  hear  his  last  words,  the  good  old 
man  said  to  them  wath  all  the  energy  of  which  he  was  capable  : 
"  Pay  great  attention  to  the  word  of  your  teachers,  and  remem- 
ber that  they  speak  in  the  name  of  the  Saviour."  Being  quite 
exhausted,  he  had  only  power  to  add,  "  I  have  done."  He  was 
now  gently  laid  down  again,  and  about  an  hour  afterwards  his 
spirit  departed  in  the  full  assurance  of  hope.  "  Blessed  are  the 
xlead  that  die  in  the  Lord." 


CHAPTER  YIII. 

COXCLUDING  INCIDENTS  AND  OBSEIIVATIONS. 

Progress  of  the  "Work  at  the  Cape — Educational  Department — Scliool 
Examinations — Languages  and  Translations — Progress  of  Civilization 
— Spiritual  Results  of  the  Gospel — Missionaries  raised  up — Arrivals  and 
Departures — Deaths — Failure  of  Health — Rkturn  to  England — 
Embarkation — St.  Helena — Ascension — Arrival  at  Southampton — 
CoiNCLUDiNG  Observations — lietrospect — Appeal. 

The  invervals  between  my  respective  visits  to  the  interior 
-cif  Southern  Africa,  and  several  years  afterwards,  were  spent  ia 


568       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

earnest  efforts  to  consolidate  and  extend  our  missionary  opera- 
tions in  Cape  Town  and  neighbourhood.  In  these  evangelical 
labours  I  was  nobly  supported  and  aided  by  my  beloved  bre- 
thren in  the  ministry,  and  also  by  the  Mission  school  teachers. 
Local  Preachers,  and  Leaders ;  and  it  is  pleasing  to  know  that 
our  united  labours  were  not  in  vain  in  the  Lord.  On  almost 
every  station  in  the  District  we  were  favoured  to  see  the  congre- 
gations improve ;  and,  although  the  progress  of  the  work  was 
not  rapid,  it  was  steady,  and  each  successive  year  witnessed  an 
accession  of  promising  members  to  the  church. 

But  the  most  encournging  and  hopeful  department  of  our 
work  was  that  which  pertained  to  the  training  up  of  the  rising 
generation.  Reference  has  already  been  made  to  our  interesting 
and  prosperous  Sabbath  schools  in  Cape  Town.  These  useful 
institutions  were  not  only  extended  to  the  rural  districts,  but 
the  number  of  day  schools  was  increased,  and  we  had  ultimately 
one  in  connexion  with  every  principal  station.  At  an  early 
period  the  Colonial  Government  extended  its  fostering  care  to 
district  schools,  for  the  education  of  the  children  of  the  higher 
classes  of  society ;  and  Avhen  it  awoke  to  the  importance  and 
necessity  of  doing  something  more  for  the  instruction  of  the  poor, 
we  put  in  onr  claim,  in  common  with  other  religious  bodies,  and 
obtained  grants  in  aid  for  sixteen  day  schools.  This  was  a  great 
help  to  us,  and  considerably  relieved  the  funds  of  the  parent  Mis- 
sionary Society,  as  in  many  instances  the  Government  grant  and 
the  children's  school  pence  entirely  supported  the  institutions. 
In  the  absence  of  a  normal  school  for  the  training  of  native 
teachers,  we  did  our  best  by  private  instruction,  and  by  fre- 
quently visiting  the  schools  to  improve  our  agents,  and  more 
fully  to  prepare  them  for  their  important  work.  On  our  countiy 
stations  we  were  obliged  to  commence  by  giving  elementary  in- 
struction in  the  native  language  of  the  people  ;  but  in  accordance 
with  the  requirements  of  Government  and  our  own  convictions 
of  duty,  we  invariably  strove  to  lead  our  pupils  on  to  a  know- 
ledge of  the  English  tongue.  Notwithstanding  the  difficulties- 
with  which  we  had  to  contend,  we  succeeded  in  the  educational- 
department  of  our  work  far  beyond  what  many  would  suppose ; 
for  whilst  some  of  our  schools,  especially  in  the  rural  districts. 


CHAP.   VIII. — CONCLUDING    OBSERVATIONS.  569 

were  much  below  what  we  could  have   desired,  others  in  the 
towns  and  villages  were  of  a  very  respectable  character. 

With  a  view  to  render  our  Mission  schools  as  efficient  as 
possible,  the  resident  Ministers  on  the  respective  stations 
generally  visited  them  once  a  week;  and  I  made  it  a  part  of  my 
duty  to  examine  them  at  stated  periods.  On  the  occasion  of 
the  annual  examinations  I  generally  arranged  to  have  a  few 
rewards  to  distribute,  according  to  the  respective  merits  of  the 
scholars.  On  entering  the  school  I  have  often  been  amused  to 
observe  the  earnestness  with  which  the  children  would  cast  their 
little  sparkling  eyes  on  the  carpet  bag  which  I  carried  in  my 
hand,  as  if  they  were  already  calculating  on  the  quantity  or 
quality  of  its  contents.  When  the  various  exercises  in  reading, 
writing,  arithmetic,  geography,  history,  &c.,  were  finished,  the 
presents  were  spread  out  on  a  form,  and  the  scholars  were  called 
up  two  and  two,  boys  and  girls  alternately,  and  allowed  to  have 
their  choice  of  articles,  according  to  the  order  in  which  the 
teacher  could  recommend  them  as  to  diligence,  punctuality,  good 
behaviour,  and  progress,  during  the  year.  While  this  process 
was  going  on  in  some  of  our  schools,  a  physiognomist  or  philo- 
sopher might  have  contemplated  the  scene  with  interest,  and 
speculated  upon  human  nature  as  there  exhibited  to  view,  in  a 
rising  generation  just  emerging  from  heathen  darkness.  Some 
would  take  considerable  time  to  examine  the  intrinsic  value 
of  a  book  or  other  article  before  they  made  their  choice,  whilst 
others  were  carried  away  by  outward  appearances,  and  at  once- 
fixed  upon  that  which  was  most  gay  and  showy  in  form  or 
colour.  The  school  presents  generally  consisted  of  articles  of 
wearing  apparel,  remnants  of  printed  calico,  little  books, 
thimbles,  needles,  pens,  pencils,  &c.,  which  were  kindly  supplied 
by  the  friends  of  Missions  in  England.  On  behalf  of  these  dear 
African  children  I  desire  to  express  our  obligation  to  Mrs. 
Hoole  of  London,  Mrs.  Simon  of  Jersey,  Miss  Beard  and  Miss 
Mitchell  of  Freshwater,  Mrs.  C.  Dore  of  Newport,  Isle  of 
Wight,  and  to  many  unknown  friends,  for  valuable  packages  of 
presents  forwarded  from  time  to  time  for  our  Mission  schools  in 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  District.  The  most  valuable  parcel  of 
school  presents  that  ever  came  to  hand,  was  one  which  con- 


■570       PAET  III. — THE  CAFE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

taiued  a  number  of  useful  little  garments,  the  result  of  a  noble 
sacrifice  ipade  by  a  few  boys  and  girls,  who,  with  the  consent 
of  their  parents,  denied  themselves  the  gratification  of  sugar  in 
their  tea,  and  butter  on  their  bread,  for  a  stated  period,  that  the 
amount  thus  saved  might  be  spent  in  procuring  clothing  for 
little  destitute  African  children.  When  the  letter  was  read  in 
the  school,  previous  to  the  distribution  of  the  articles,  stating  the 
means  by  which  they  had  been  procured,  and  the  motives  with 
which  they  were  sent,  tears  streamed  down  many  a  sable  cheek, 
at  the  thought  that  they  were  thus  remembered  and  loved 
by  their  little  white  brothers  and  sisters  in  England  ;  and  they 
requested  at  once  that  a  message  of  gratitude  and  love  might 
be  sent  to  their  benefactors,  which  was  done  accordingly. 

Intimately  connected  with  the  educational  department  of 
missionary  labour  is  that  which  relates  to  the  study  of  lan- 
guages, and  the  providing  of  a  native  literature  for  the  people 
of  our  charge  in  foreign  lands.  In  Southern  Africa  the  Mis- 
sionaries preach  to  the  people  in  four  or  five  difierent  languages; 
^nd  although  they  are  alive  to  the  importance  of  diffusing  as 
much  as  possible  a  knowledge  of  the  English  tongue,  they  find 
it  absolutely  necessary  in  the  mean  time  to  provide  books  for 
the  people  in  the  vernacular  dialects  of  the  respective  countries 
where  they  labour.  "Whilst  our  esteemed  brethren  beyond  the 
eastern  frontier  were  engaged  in  translating  the  Scriptures,  and 
preparing  hymns  and  school  books  in  Kaffir  and  Sechuana,  some 
of  the  Missionaries  at  the  Cape  were  zealously  performing 
similar  services  for  the  Hottentots  and  Dutch-speaking  portion 
of  then*  people.  Something  considerable  had  been  done  in  this 
way  previous  to  my  arrival  in  South  Africa ;  and  duiing  the 
period  of  my  connexion  with  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  District, 
&  new  Hymn  Book,  the  Conference  Catechisms,  several  school 
books,  and  a  number  of  tracts,  were  printed  in  Dutch,  as  well 
^s  a  Grammar  and  some  portions  of  Scripture  in  Naraaqua 
Hottentot.  The  last  named  works  were  from  the  pen  of  the 
Eev.  Henry  Tindall,  who,  together  with  the  Eev.  Messrs. 
Haddy,  Cameron,  Eidgill,  and  Ridsdale,  took  an  active  part  in 
translating  and  putting  through  the  press  the  Dutch  publica- 


CHAP.    VIII. —  CONCLUDING    OBSERVATIONS.  571 

tions  required  for  the  use  of  our  people  in  the  public  worship  of 
•God,  in  their  families,  and  in  the  schools.* 

The  advancement  of  the  people  in  civilization,  and  in  the 
knowledge  of  Christianity,  as  well  as  in  the  higher  walks  of 
experimental  religion,  being  an  object  which  is  constantly  kept 
in  view  by  our  Missionaries,  it  commended  itself  to  the  approval 
of  all  classes  of  the  community ;  and  I  am  happy  to  say  that  in 
the  prosecution  of  our  work  we  never  met  with  the  slightest 
interruption  from  tlie  Government  authorities  or  others.  Dur- 
ing my  residence  in  the  Cape  Colony,  the  Governors  who  ruled 
in  succession  were  Sir  Harry  Smith,  Charles  H.  Darling,  Esq., 
Sir  George  Cathcart,  and  Sir  George  Grey,  all  of  whom  mani- 
fested a  friendly  interest  in  the  object  of  our  Mission.  Indeed, 
his  Excellency  Sir  George  Grey  was  more  than  friendly.  He 
was  the  zealous  promoter  and  benevolent  patron  of  religious 
instruction,  general  education,  and  social  progress  among  the 
natives.  The  first  cheque  that  he  drew  upon  the  bank  after 
his  arrival  in  South  Africa  was  for  five  pounds,  as  a  present  to 
treat  the  children  of  our  Mission  school  at  Somerset  (West); 
who  went  out  in  a  body  to  show  their  respect  for  him  as  the 
representative  of  Queen  Victoria,  on  his  entering  the  village, 
and  to  sing  the  national  anthem.  This  was  only  one  of  many 
acts  of  kindness  and  benevolence  to  our  Mission  which  I  could 
enumerate,  to  say  nothing  of  the  personal  friendly  intercourse 
which  I  frequently  had  with  him,  and  of  which  I  shall  ever 
cherish  a  pleasing  remembrance. 

*  A  few  years  before  I  left  the  Cape,  my  friend  Mr.  Nichols,  of  46,  Hoxton 
"Square,  London,  sent  me  out  a  small  Albion  press ;  and  I  fitted  up,  at  my 
own  expense,  a  little  printing  oflB.ce  in  connexion  with  my  o\^ti  station  at 
RoHdebosch.  Tbis  was  of  great  service  to  the  Mission.  Having  taught 
myself  the  art  of  printing  in  a  humble  degree,  I  spent  all  the  hours  of  re- 
laxation which  I  could  command  from  close  mental  application,  in  attention 
to  this  exercise.  I  brought  out,  in  a  short  time.  Rules  and  Regulations  for 
the  Management  of  the  Lily  Fountain  Missionary  Institution,  in  Dutch  and 
English,  sixteen  pages ;  Rules  of  the  Wesleyan  Methodist  Society,  in  Dutch; 
■a  number  of  hymns,  schedules,  tracts,  and  handbills,  in  both  languages,  in 
^addition  to  the  Circuit  Plans,  and  a  variety  of  other  papers,  from  year  to 
year,  free  of  cost,  which  was  a  considerable  saving  of  expense  to  the 
Society,  and  a  useful  auxiliary  to  om*  work. 


572  PAirr  iii. — the  cape  of  good  hope. 

Neither  were  the  subordinate  functionaries  backward  in  ten- 
dering us  their  hearty  good-will  and  their  generous  support,  as 
a  reference  to  the  Annual  Missionary  Eeport  will  abundantly 
testify.  "When  the  intelligence  reached  the  Cape  that  the  Con- 
stitution securing  a  representative  Government  was  at  length 
granted  to  the  Colony  by  the  Imperial  Parliament,  the  Queen*& 
birthday,  June  24th,  1833,  was  set  apart  for  general  rejoicings 
and  the  scholars  of  all  the  schools  in  the  city,  numbering  three 
thousand  five  hundred,  were  invited  to  a  treat  prepared  for 
them  by  the  municipality  of  Cape  Town.  It  was  a  grand  sight- 
to  behold  ten  thousand  people  congregated  on  the  parade,  in 
front  of  the  stand  from  which  his  Honour  Lieutenant-Governor 
Darling  and  other  gentlemen  delivered  interesting  addresses ; 
and  the  Wesleyan  Mission  schools  occupied  a  prominent  posi- 
tion, with  their  respective  banners  floating  in  the  breeze.  And 
when  the  first  Colonial  Parliament  was  inaugurated  on  the  1st 
of  July,  1854,  Mrs.  Moister  and  I  received  invitations  and 
cards  of  admission,  to  witness  the  interesting  ceremony,  in 
common  with  the  heads  of  other  sections  of  the  church  and 
their  families.  As  there  is  no  Established  or  State  Church  at 
the  Cape,  so  there  is  no  distinction  made  by  the  Government 
between  the  different  religious  bodies,  so  far  as  honourable 
recognition  is  concerned ;  and  it  is  hoped  that  the  time  will 
soon  come  when  all  orthodox  Protestant  Christian  churches- 
will  be  treated  alike  in  the  distribution  of  financial  aid  from  the- 
colonial  chest. 

It  is  pleasing  to  contemplate  the  tangible  results  of  mission- 
ary labour  in  heathen  lands,  as  they  appear  in  the  evident 
improvement  of  the  temporal  condition  of  a  people  who  receive 
the  Gospel  and  realize  its  ameliorating  influences;  but  it  is- 
still  more  delightful  to  witness  saving  conversions  to  God,  and 
the  ingathering  of  precious  souls  to  the  church  of  Christy 
And  when  the  converts  to  the  faith  of  the  Gospel  are  themselves 
called  to  be  standard-bearers  in  the  army  of  the  Lord  of 
hosts,  it  is  cause  of  yet  higher  exultation  and  joy.  In  all 
these  respects  we  had  cause  to  rejoice  that  our  labour  was  not 
in  vain  in  the  Lord,  on  our  respective  stations  at  the  Cape  of 
Good  Hope.     Christian  villages  have  been  settled    in   many 


CHAP.    VIII. — CONCLUDING    OBSERVATIONS.  573 

places  where  a  few  years  ago  tlie  darkness  of  heathenism  pre- 
vailed. The  arts  of  civilized  life  have  been  taught  to  native 
tribes  once  barbarous  and  savage  in  the  extreme.  Churches 
have  been  organized,  and  schools  established  for  the  training  of 
ihe  rising  generation,  to  an  extent  which  cannot  fail  to  be  pro- 
ductive of  the  best  results  in  time  to  come.  And,  best  of  all, 
precious  souls  have  been  won  for  Christ  from  almost  every 
native  tribe  in  Southern  Africa  ;  many  of  whom  have  been  found 
worthy  to  be  emploj^ed  as  Teachers  and  Preachers  for  the  bene- 
fit of  their  fellow  countrymen.  In  our  colonial  towns  several 
intelligent  and  talented  young  men,  themselves  the  fruit  of  mis- 
sionary labour,  have  been  called  to  the  work  of  the  rainistiy, 
and  are  discharging  the  duties  of  their  sacred  calling  with  credit 
to  themselves  and  advantage  to  the  people  among  whom  they 
labour.  A  few  brief  notices  concerning  those  who  have  been 
thus  raised  up  in  the  District  of  which  I  had  charge,  may  be 
interesting  to  the  reader. 

The  Eev.  Henry  Tindall  accompanied  his  parents  to  South 
Africa  whilst  he  was  yet  a  little  boy  ;  and  his  revered  father,  the 
Hev.  Joseph  Tindall,  being  for  many  years  honourably  engaged 
in  our  Mission  work,  the  son  enjoyed  advantages  superior  to 
many,  and  was  in  early  life  brought  to  a  saving  knowledge  of 
the  truth.  On  my  arrival  at  the  Cape,  Mr.  H.  Tindall  had 
already  begun  to  preach,  and  his  early  pulpit  efforts  not  only 
met  with  general  acceptance,  but  they  were  regarded  by  his 
■friends  as  indicative  of  future  usefulness  in  the  church  of 
■Christ.  The  anticipations  thus  raised  have  been  realized  in  a 
pleasing  manner.  At  the  District  Meeting  of  1852,  I  had  the 
pleasure  of  proposing  him  as  a  candidate  for  our  Ministry  ;  and 
having  passed  his  examination  with  acceptance,  and  been  cor- 
dially received  by  the  British  Conference,  he  entered  upon  his 
work  in  Great  Namaqualand  with  commendable  zeal  and  per- 
severance. Having  fulfilled  the  period  of  his  probation  in  a  man- 
ner satisfactory  to  his  brethren  and  to  our  people  generally,  he 
was  solemnly  ordained  to  the  full  work  of  the  Ministry  in  Burg 
Street  chapel,  before  a  large  congregation,  on  the  3rd  of  June, 
1857  ;  and  he  has  ever  since  been  usefully  and  honourably 
•engaged  in   missionary  labour,  chiefly  on    colonial   stations. 


57-i        PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

Prom  Mr.  Tindall's  superior  educational  advantages,  his  accu- 
rate knowledge  of  the  English,  Dutch,  and  Naraaqua  languages, 
and  his  mental  and  physical  adaptation  for  missionary  work,  we 
anticipate  for  him  a  long  and  successful  career  of  usefulness  in 
that  part  of  the  Lord's  vineyard  where  his  lot  is  cast  in  the 
order  of  Divine  Providence. 

The  Eev.  John  Thome  was  born  in  the  colony,  of  Methodist 
parents  originally  from  England.  When  he  first  attracted  my 
notice,  he  was  a  little  boy  in  the  Sabbath  school,  and  I  was 
much  impressed  with  the  manner  in  which  he  recited  his  piece 
at  the  anniversary.  He  and  his  interesting  little  sisters  were 
among  the  first  who  joined  the  Bible  Class  which  I  formed 
immediately  after  our  arrival  at  the  Cape.  As  young  Thorne 
gTCw  up,  I  was  pleased  to  observe  his  serious  deportment ;  and 
he  soon  became  a  decidedly  religious  character,  although  it  was 
not  till  some  time  afterwards  that  he  obtained  a  clear  sense  of  the 
favour  of  God.  When  I  organized  the  "  Cape  Town  Wesleyan 
Youths'  Mental  Improvement  Society,"  he  was  one  of  the  first 
who  joined  the  Association ;  and  for  several  years  he  held  the 
office  of  Secretary,  exhibiting  considerable  skill  in  the  composi- 
tion of  his  essays,  the  drawing  up  of  the  annual  reports,  and 
the  general  discharge  of  his  duties.  Being  deeply  impressed 
with  the  conviction  that  the  Lord  had  a  work  for  John  Thorne 
to  do  in  His  vineyard,  I  obtained  the  consent  of  his  parents  for 
his  being  placed  more  fully  under  my  care,  that  I  might  direct 
him  in  his  studies,  and  aid  him  in  preparing  for  future  useful- 
ness. I  gave  him  the  charge  of  a  Mission  school,  which  he 
conducted  with  efficiency,  notwithstanding  his  youth ;  and  he 
soon  began  to  preach  with  acceptance.  He  was  received  by  the 
District  Meeting  and  Conference  of  1862  as  a  candidate  for  our 
Ministry ;  and  has  since  been  usefully  employed  in  missionary 
work,  first  at  Eobertson,  and  afterwards  at  Burghersdorp. 
Erom  his  genuine  piety,  Christian  simplicity,  industrious  and 
studious  habits,  and  respectable  mental  endowments,  I  anti- 
cipate for  him  a  useful  and  honourable  missionary  career. 

The  Eevs.  Erederick  D.  Edwards  and  William  Edwards  (b) 
are  sons  of  the  venerable  E.  Edwards,  who,  after  long  bearing 
the  burden  and  heat  of  the  day  in  the  high  places  of  the  Mis- 


CHAP.    VIII. — CONCLUDIITG    OBSERVATIONS.  575 

sion  field,  hns  recently  retired  as  a  Superniiraerary,  full  of  years 
and  full  of  honours.  Both  of  these  promisini^  young  men  were 
brought  to  God  in  early  life  ;  and  Frederick  was  for  some  time 
a  niemher  of  the  "  Cape  Town  Wesleyan  Youths'  Mutual 
Improvement  Society,"  before  which  he  read  some  essays  of 
considerable  merit.  The  two  brothers  were  accepted  as  candi- 
dates for  our  Ministry  by  the  Conference  of  1865  ;  and  Fred- 
erick has  gone  to  labour  at  Swellendam,  and  William  has  been 
sent  to  Peddie,  in  the  Graham's  Town  District.  From  their 
educational  advantages  and  efficiency  in  the  Dutch  language, 
it  is  hoped  that  they  will  be  useful  especially  in  the  native  depart- 
ment of  the  work. 

At  different  periods  we  received  into  the  Cape  District,  dur- 
ing my  connexion  with  it,  esteemed  brethren  from  other  parts 
of  the  great  field,  who  came  to  our  aid  with  all  the  advantages 
of  practical  missionary  experience.  The  Eev.  William  Barber 
arrived  from  Ceylon,  on  the  3rd  of  November,  1858,  in  a  feeble 
state  of  health.  The  change  of  climate  proved  beneficial  to 
Lira;  and  he  has  ever  since  continued  to  labour  with  acceptance 
first  at  Wynberg,  and  afterwards  at  Swellendam  and  Stellen- 
bosch.  The  Eev.  Messrs.  Cameron  and  Parsonson  came  from 
the  Eastern  Province,  to  supply  the  places  of  the  Eev.  Messrs. 
Haddy  and  Eidsdale  on  their  return  home ;  and,  after  rendering 
valuable  services  in  the  Cape  District  for  several  years,  one 
removed  to  England  and  the  other  to  Natal.  Since  my  depar- 
ture from  the  Cape,  the  Eev.  P.  Batchelor  has  arrived  from 
India ;  and  my  friend,  the  Eev.  Samuel  Hardey,  has  come  from 
Australia,  as  ray  successor  as  General  Superintendent  of  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  District. 

The  only  Missionary  sent  out  direct  from  England  to  reinforce 
the  Cape  District  during  the  past  fifteen  years,  was  the  Eev.  John 
Priestley,  who  has  laboured  faithfully,  and  been  made  a  bless- 
ing to  many;  but  whose  experience  is  strikingly  illustrative  of 
the  vicissitudes  of  the  foreign  work,  whilst  at  the  same  time  it 
calls  for  the  sympathy  and  prayers  of  the  friends  of  Missions. 
He  arrived  at  the  Cape  on  the  12th  of  December,  1855,  in 
company  with  the  Eev.  Messrs.  Stephenson,  Scott,  Dean,  and 
Pordige,  four  zealous  young  Missionaries,  who  were  on  their 


"576       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

way  to  India.  When  his  fellow-voyagers,  after  a  few  days  on 
shore,  had  proceeded  to  the  place  of  their  destination,  Mr. 
Priestley  commenced  his  labours  at  Eondebosch  in  the  true 
missionary  spirit ;  and  by  his  Christian  simplicity,  genuine 
^iety,  and  genial  spirit,  he  soon  won  the  affections  of  our  peo- 
ple. He  was  afterwards  appointed  to  the  charge  of  our  Simon's 
'Town  station,  where  he  laboured  with  equal  acceptance  and 
success.  On  completing  the  term  of  his  probation,  he  was 
solemnly  ordained  to  the  full  work  of  the  Ministry  in  Wesley 
•Chapel,  Burg  Street,  on  the  14th  of  September,  1859  ;  and, 
having  been  united  in  marriage  to  a  young  lady  like-minded 
with  himself,  they  were  appointed  to  a  station  in  Great  Nama- 
qualand.  The  oxen  and  waggons  being  ready,  and  every  neces- 
sary preparation  having  been  made,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Priestley 
left  Cape  Town  on  Monday,  the  19l.h  of  September,  1859,  for 
their  distant  interior  station.  On  the  following  morning  I  rode 
out  to  their  first  encampment,  and  after  breakfast  we  united 
in  prayer  and  praise,  and  took  an  affectionate  leave  of  each 
other,  little  thinking  that  some  of  us  would  never  be  per- 
mitted to  meet  together  again  in  this  world ;  but  so  it  was. 

I'or  five  years  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Priestley  pursued  their  arduous 
work  under  many  difficulties,  arising  from  peculiar  circumstances 
already  alluded  to  ;  and  on  their  return  to  the  colony,  towards 
the  close  of  1864,  they  were  appointed  to  Stellenbosch,  where 
it  was  hoped  that  they  would  be  favoured  to  enjoy  for  some 
years  the  advantages  of  civilized  society,  and  a  sphere  of  labour 
of  a  more  encouraging  character.  But  this  hope  was  not 
realized.  They  had  scarcely  become  settled  on  their  new  station 
when  Mrs.  Priestley  was  seized  with  a  severe  illness,  which  ter- 
minated fatally  in  the  course  of  a  few  days.  She  died  happy 
in  God,  on  the  23rd  of  February,  1865.  The  shock  was 
severely  felt  by  her  bereaved  husband ;  and  being  liiraself  in  a 
debilitated  state,  and  left  with  two  motherless  children,  he  was 
allowed  to  proceed  with  them  to  England  towards  the  close  of 
the  year.  They  arrived  at  Southampton  on  Friday,  the  19  th  of 
January,  1866 ;  and  on  receiving  a  telegraphic  message  I  imme- 
diately went  over  to  welcome  my  afflicted  brother  with  his 
infant  charge  to  his  native  shores  ;  and  we  were  favoured  once 


CHAP.    Vlir. — CONCLUDING    OBSERVATIONS.  577 

more  to  mingle  our  prayers  and  praises  at  the  throne  of  the 
heavenly  grace. 

This  affecting  instance  of  affliction  and  bereavement  recalls 
to  my  memory  many  others  which  I  have  witnessed  in 
the  course  of  a  long  life  of  missionary  labour.  I  have  now 
before  me  a  list  of  seventeen  esteemed  and  beloved  colleagues  and 
fellow-labom*ers  who  have  fallen  in  the  Mission  field,  or  who  have 
been  called  to  rest  from  their  labours  soon  after  returning  to 
their  native  land,  viz.,  the  Eevs.  William  Eitchie,  Thomas  Dove, 
Thomas  Crosthwaite,  Abraham  Cooper,  John  CuUingford,  Eobert 
€rane,  John  Lee,  William  Bannister,  Samuel  Durrie,  John  Mortier, 
James  Eathbone,  Joseph  Biggs,  Edward  Branston,  William  Hud- 
son, John  Blackwell,  Barnabas  Shaw,  and  Joseph  Tindall,  besides 
many  other  members  of  Mission  families.  If  space  permitted, 
it  would  be  very  pleasant  to  linger  for  a  few  moments  on  the 
memory  of  such  of  these  dear  departed  ones  as  have  not  been 
already  mentioned  in  these  records  of  missionary  labour.  The 
two  revered  brethren  last  named  finished  their  course  a  few  years 
ago  in  Southern  Africa ;  and  having  been  associated  with  them 
in  the  work  of  the  Lord  more  intimately  and  for  a  longer 
period  than  usual,  I  cannot  pass  on  without  a  few  words,  as  a 
liumble  tribute  to  their  memory. 

The  Eev.  Barnabas  Shaw,  the  zealous  and  devoted  pioneer 
Wesleyan  Missionary  to  Southern  Africa,  was  for  many 
jears  well  known,  by  his  earnest  pleadings  or  pathetic  com- 
munications, to  British  Methodists.  When  I  arrived  at  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope  in  the  beginning  of  1851,  he  had  recently  returned 
to  the  colony  for  the  third  time,  and  was  plodding  along  in  his 
Master's  work  as  best  he  could,  with  his  health  considerably- 
impaired.  In  1854,  his  increasing  infirmities  obliged  him  ta 
retire  as  a  Supernumerary.  During  the  remainder  of  his  life  he 
was  my  near  neighbour  at  Eondebosch;  and  I  had  frequent 
opportunities  of  witnessing  his  Christian  simplicity,  patience 
'  under  suffering,  calm  resignation  to  the  will  of  God,  and 
his  firm  reliance  on  the  merits  of  Christ  in  prospect  of  dis- 
solution. He  finished  his  course  in  the  faith  and  hope  of  the 
Gospel,  on  the  31st  of  June,  1857;  and  his  beloved  wife  followed 
him  to  the  better  country  about  four  years  afterwards. 

p  P 


578         PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

The  Eev.  Joseph  Ttndall  was  for  many  years  a  most 
laborious  and  useful  Missionary  in  Great  Naraaqualand,  and  in 
the  Damara  Country;  and  when  failing  health  obliged  him 
to  relinquish  the  more  arduous  duties  of  an  interior  station,  he 
was  appointed  to  a  colonial  Circuit.  In  this  position  he  wa& 
highly  respected  and  esteemed  by  his  brethren  in  the  Ministry, 
and  by  the  people  among  whom  he  laboured.  Although  he 
was  made  useful  by  such  services  as  he  was  able  to  render, 
which  were  always  free,  cheerful,  and  hearty,  his  constitution 
never  fully  recovered  from  the  injuries  which  it  had  received 
from  his  travels  and  exposure  in  the  interior,  and  in  1858  he 
was  obliged  to  retire  as  a  Supernumerary.  He  came  to  reside 
at  Eondebosch,  near  Cape  Town,  where  he  still  rendered  valu- 
able aid  in  carrying  on  the  good  work,  as  his  health  would  per- 
mit. I  had  now  an  opportunity  of  seeing  him  almost  every 
day,  and  can  testify  to  his  Christian  deportment  and  general 
excellencies  of  character.  In  1860  he  was  bereaved  of  his 
beloved  wife,  who  had  so  long  been  the  companion  of  his  joys 
and  sorrows ;  and  in  the  course  of  the  ensuing  year  he  was 
called  to  follow  her  to  the  heavenly  world.  He  died  somewhat 
suddenly,  but  happy  in  God,  when  on  a  visit  to  his  son  at 
Eobertson,  on  the  25th  of  November,  1861. 

During  my  residence  at  the  Cape  I  had  also  to  follow  to  the 
gi'ave  many  useful  members  of  our  church,  some  of  whom  in 
life  and  in  death  gave  pleasing  evidence  of  the  regenerating 
and  sanctifying  power  of  Divine  grace.  Concerning  one  family, 
connected  with  the  native  department  of  our  work,  with  which  I 
was  well  acquainted,  I  may  now  make  a  few  brief  remarks. 

John  Lutgens  was  a  pious,  devoted,  and  consistent  church' 
member  and  Local  Preacher  in  connexion  with  our  native  work 
at  Eondebosch.  When  he  had  pursued  his  useful  course  fo» 
several  years,  and  commended  himself  to  the  respect  and 
esteem  of  all  who  knew  him,  a  lady  came  to  me  one  day,, 
and  proposed  that  he  should  be  entirely  devoted  to  religious 
work  as  a  Scripture  Eeader,  believing  that  in  this  capacity  he 
might  be  made  still  more  useful.  I  regarded  the  proposal 
with  favour,  and  said  I  should  be  glad  to  promote  it,  if  the 
means  could    be    provided   for   his    support.      Although   the- 


CHAP.    YIII. — CONCLUDING   OBSERVATIONS.  579 

lady  was  not  a  member  of  our  churcli,  she  generously  offered 
to  contiibute  the  sum  necessary  for  this  purpose,  £1  per  week, 
herself,  if  I  would  superintend  and  direct  his  labours.  John 
immediately  entered  upon  his  delightful  work,  visiting  from 
house  to  house,  conversing,  reading,  and  praying  with  all 
to  whom  he  could  gain  access,  and  using  his  utmost  efforts  to 
induce  them  to  attend  the  house  of  God,  and  to  send  their 
children  to  school.  The  result  was  soon  seen  in  the  increase 
of  our  congregations,  and  in  the  general  improvement  of  the 
people. 

This  useful  native  labourer  had  pursued  his  delightful  work 
only  about  a  year,  when  he  sickened  and  died ;  but  I  am  thank- 
ful to  say  that  he  died,  as  he  had  lived,  in  the  faith  and  hope  of 
the  Gospel.  He  was  held  in  such  high  esteem  that  his  funeral 
was  attended  by  a  large  concourse  of  people  of  all  classes  of  the 
community.  Among  the  rest  came  the  neighbouring  Clergyman 
of  the  Church  of  England,  offering,  as  an  apology  for  the  liberty 
which  he  had  taken,  the  high  esteem  in  which  he  held  the  departed. 
I  was  so  pleased  with  this  act  of  liberality  on  the  part  of  the 
the  reverend  gentleman,  thai  I  asked  him  to  give  a  short  address 
in  our  chapel  to  the  assembled  multitude,  in  English,  after  the 
service  had  been  read  in  the  native  language ;  which  he  did 
with  good  effect.  He  then  walked  with  me  in  the  funeral  pro- 
cession, and  stood  by  my  side  whilst  I  read  the  remainder  of 
the  service  at  the  grave,  in  the  Eondebosch  churchyard ;  and 
on  our  return  home  the  Clergyman  took  a  part  in  the  Union 
prayer-meeting  held  in  the  Wesleyan  chapel  in  the  evening. 
Such  is  our  happy  freedom  from  sectarian  or  party  feeling  on 
some  of  our  foreign  stations. 

Shortly  before  the  death  of  John  Lutgens,  two  of  his  children 
died ;  and,  within  a  short  space,  death  came  a  third  time 
to  that  humble  cottage,  near  to  my  own  residence.  The  victim 
this  time  was  the  afflicted  and  son-owing  mother,  whose  double 
bereavement  had  enfeebled  her  body  and  crushed  her  spirits. 
But  Sophia  was  eminently  pious,  and  fully  prepared  for  her 
final  change.  This  was  the  last  death-bed  scene  that  I  wit- 
nessed in  Africa,  and  I  shall  never  forget  the  calm  resignation 
and  the  unwavering  confidence  of  the  dear  sufferer.  On  one 
2  P  2 


580       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

occasion,  when  I  had  been  commending  her  to  God  in  prayer, 
on  rising  from  my  knees  I  endeavoured  to  speak  to  her  a.  few 
words  of  comfort  and  encouragement,  reminding  her  th^t  it 
woidd  not  be  long  before  she  would  meet  with  her  dear  de- 
parted friends  and  her  little  ones  in  heaven.  When  I  ceased 
to  .speak,  she  looked  up,  and,  with  a  radiant  smile  upon  her  ema- 
ciated bronzy  countenance,  she  replied,  in  her  own  plaintive 
language.  "  Ja,  Mijnhee7\  gij  spreekt  de  icaarJieid :  ik  ben  nu 
in  Jiet  dal  dtr  scJiaduwe  des  doods ;  maar,  God  zij  dank,  liet  is  niet 
donker.  Aan  het  elude  daarvan  schijnt  hemelscJie  licJit ;  en 
linnen  kort  zal  ik  met  den  Heer  voor  eemoig  z'ljny  Which  may 
be  thus  rendered  :  "  Yes,  Sir,  you  speak  the  truth  :  I  am  now 
in  the  valley  of  the  shadow  of  death  ;  but,  thank  God,  it  is  not 
dark.  I  see  heavenly  light  shining  in  at  the  other  end,  and  I 
shall  soon  be  for  ever  with  the  Lord."  Soon  after  this  she 
resigned  her  happy  spirit  into  the  hands  of  her  Eedeemer. 
This  is  but  one  of  many  genuine  converts  to  the  faith  of  the 
Gospel  on  our  Mission  stations,  wlio  have  been  found  faithful 
unto  death,  and  who,  I  trust,  will  be  our  joy  and  the  crown  of 
our  rejoicing  in  the  day  of  the  Lord  Jesus. 

On  several  of  our  South  African  Mission  stations  we  have 
been  favoured  with  a  cheering  measure  of  success.  After  many 
changes  we  have  now  in  connexion  with  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope  District,  ten  Missionaries,  twenty-seven  chapels,  sixteeti 
ether  preacJiing-places,  sixteeti  hundred  church  members,  nearly 
three  thousand  scholars  in  the  Mission  schools,  and  six  thousand 
eight  hundred  attendants  on  'public  worship. 

RETURN  TO  ENGLAND. 

It  will  not  be  .surprising  to  any  one  acquainted  with  the 
nature  of  our  foreign  work,  and  the  effect  of  a  lengthened  resi- 
dence previously  within  the  tropics,  that,  after  nearly  thirty  years 
of  such  continuous  labour  as  devolved  upon  us,  our  health  and 
constitutions  began  to  give  way.  In  my  own  case,  as  well  as 
in  that  of  my  dear  wife,  the  failure  of  health  might  be  traced  to 
over  exertion  as  much  as  to  the  influence  of  foreign  climates.  In 
everj-^  sphere  of  labour  which  we  had  occupied,  our  strength 
and  been  taxed  to  the  utmost  to  meet  the  demands  of  the 


CHAP.    VIIT. — CONCLUDING    0BSEEVATI0N3.  58  L 

work  ;  and  during  our  residence  in  Soufhern  Africa,  I  had  not 
only  the  charge  of  an  important  Circuit  for  ten  years  in  succes- 
sion, requiring  a  full  supply  of  ministerial  labour  to  sustain 
its  various  interests  in  the  English  and  native  departments  ; 
but  my  official  duties  in  the  general  superintendency  of  the 
District  involved  considerable  care  and  responsibility.  I  had 
to  visit  the  respective  stations  and  schools  at  stated  periods,  to 
correspond  largely  with  the  Missionaries,  Government  officials, 
and  the  General  Secretaries  of  the  Society  in  London,  as  well  as 
to  attend  to  the  financial  affairs  of  the  District,  together  with 
occasional  services  for  my  brethren  on  the  frontier  and  in  Natal, 
involving  an  amount  of  writing  and  book-keeping  known  only 
to  those  who  have  had  practical  experience  in  such  matters, 
economy  and  accuracy  being  of  the  utmost  importance.  These 
accumulated  labours,  with  the  exposure  consequent  on  travel- 
ling in  the  interior,  where  it  is  often  necessary  to  sleep  upon 
the  cold  ground  and  otherwise  to  endure  hardness,  resulted  in 
an  attack  of  illness,  accompanied  by  such  a  complete  prostra- 
tion of  strength  and  wearing  down  of  the  system,  as  rendered  it 
necessary  to  take  medical  advice.  Dr.  Abercrombie  *  candidly 
gave  his  opinion  that  no  considerable  improvement  could  be 
expected  without  relaxation  from  my  arduous  labours,  and  a 
change  to  a  more  bracing  climate,  and  advised  our  return  to 
England  at  our  earliest  convenience.  This  announcement  took 
us  somewhat  by  surprise,  as  we  had  relinquished  all  thoughts 
of  ever  leaving  Africa.  After  due  consideration,  however,  Ave 
felt  it  to  be  our  duty  to  act  upon  this  advice,  the  health  of  my 

*  This  liberal-minded  and  philanthropic  gentleman  has  won  the  esteem 
and  love  of  all  who  know  him,  by  his  kindness  to  the  poor,  and  by  the 
readiness  with  which  he  comes  forsvard  on  all  occasions  on  behalf  of  reli- 
gious and  charitable  institutions.  For  many  years  past  Dr.  Abercrombie 
has  generously  attended  the  "Wesleyan  Missionaries  and  theu-  families  ia 
Cape  Town  free  of  charge,  besides  contributing  annually  to  the  funds  of  the 
Society,  and  frequently  presiding  at  our  public  meetings.  I  have  often  felt 
under  deep  obligation  to  him  for  his  kindness  in  promptly  and  freely  afford- 
ing medical  aid  to  my  brethren  in  the  District,  as  well  as  to  missionary 
visitors  who  have  been  on  their  way  to  or  from  India  and  Australia  ;  and 
I  have  not  failed  to  report  the  same  to  the  Missionary  Committee  in  Lou- 
don, who  are  gratefnlly  sensible  of  his  kindness. 


582       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OP  GOOD  HOPE. 

dear  wife  being  considerably  impaired  also  ;  and,  in  the  opinion 
of  our  medical  adviser,  requiring  a  change  as  much  as  my 
own. 

When  the  Missionary  Committee  in  London  were  made 
acquainted  with  the  state  of  the  case,  permission  was  granted 
for  our  return  to  England,  in  the  kindest  possible  manner.  The 
General  Secretaries  wrote,  "  We  are  sorry  to  hear  of  the  serious 
failure  of  your  health ;  and  considering  your  long  and  faithful 
services  abroad,  we  cannot  urge  you  to  remain  longer  to  the 
injury  of  your  health.  You  are  at  liberty  to  return  to  England 
after  the  District  Meeting,  if  you  still  find  it  necessary  to  do 
so."  I  may  here  state  that  in  my  communications  with  the 
honoured  directors  of  the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society,  I  have 
always  found  them  ready  to  meet  the  reasonable  wishes  of  their 
agents,  so  far  as  they  felt  they  could  do  so  without  damage  to 
the  work  in  which  they  were  engaged.  Having  given  a  speci- 
men or  two,  in  the  early  part  of  this  volume,  of  the  kind  letters 
w^hich  I  received,  when  labouring  in  Western  Africa,  from  the 
General  Secretaries  of  the  Society  for  the  time  being,  I  have 
pleasure  in  placing  upon  record  the  last  official  communication 
addressed  to  me  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  evincing  as  it  does 
the  same  care  for  the  comfort  and  welfare  of  the  Missionaries. 

"London,  May  Ul,  1860. 

"  My  dear  Brother, — Yours  of  the  21st  of  March  came 
duly  to  hand,  and  gives  us  additional  reason  to  praise  your 
forethought  and  care  for  the  work.  Amidst  the  distractions  of 
the  anniversary  week  you  will  hardly  look  for  a  long  letter ;  but 
I  am  unwilling  to  let  the  mail  leave  without  a  line  expressive  of 
our  hope  that  your  health  is  not  worse,  and  that  you  may  find 
the  voyage  home  serviceable  to  you  and  Mrs.  Moister,  should 
you  still  find  it  necessary  to  take  it.  I  am  sorry  to  say  that 
we  are  not  yet  provided  with  a  successor  for  you,  nor  have  we 
any  reasonable  prospect  of  one  at  the  Conference.  May  a  kind 
Providence  undertake  for  us  ! 

"  Should  Mr.  W.  R.  Longden  have  arrived  from  Port  Eliza- 
beth in  search  of  medical  advice,  I  am  sure  you  will  be  happy 
to  render  him  any  aid  in  your   power,  and  so  will  all  the 


CHAP.  VIII.— CONCLUDING  OBSERVATIONS.      583 

brethren.     Please  remember  me  affectionately  to  him,  and  say 
we  hope  it  may  please  God  to  bless  the  means  used  for  his 
recovery,  and  shall  be  glad  to  hear  how  he  goes  on.     Meantime 
wishing  him  and  you  and  all  the  brethren  every  needful  good, 
"  1  remain  yours  affectionately, 
"  Rev.  W,  Moister:*  '*  G.  Osborn." 

The  Kev.  Samuel  Hardey,  who  had  previously  rendered  good 
service  to  the  Society  as  General  Superintendent  of  Missions  in 
India  and  in  Australia,  was  ultimately  appointed  as  my  suc- 
cessor at  the  Cape.  The  Eev.  W.  E.  Longden,  so  kindly 
referred  to  in  the  above  letter,  and  who  received  every  attention 
we  could  give  him  on  his  repeated  visits  to  the  Cape,  finally 
sank  under  the  influence  of  the  disease  from  which  he  was 
suffering.  He  died  in  great  peace,  and  with  a  full  hope  of 
everlasting  life,  at  Uitenhage,  on  the  1st  of  May,  1864. 

At  the  last  annual  District  Meeting  at  which  I  presided 
before  leaving  South  Africa,  which  was  held  in  Cape  Town  in 
the  month  of  January,  1860, 1  was  so  graciously  sustained,  both 
in  body  and  mind,  in  the  discharge  of  my  duties,  that  hopes 
were  cherished  and  warmly  expressed  by  the  brethren,  that  my 
health  might  be  so  far  restored  as  to  admit  of  my  remaining  at 
my  post  a  little  longer.  These  hopes  I  entertained  myself  for 
R  short  time ;  but  after  the  excitement  of  the  meeting  was  over, 
I  experienced  such  a  serious  relapse,  with  such  entu'c  prostra- 
tion of  strength,  that  I  was  induced  to  decide  at  once  to  avail 
myself  of  the  kind  permission  of  the  Committee  to  return  to 
England,  feeling  strongly  averse  to  the  idea  of  nominally  filling 
a  responsible  office,  the  duties  of  which  I  was  unable  efficiently 
to  fulfil.  We  therefore  made  our  arrangements  accordingly, 
-settled  our  affairs,  and  prepared  for  our  departure. 

On  Sunday,  the  10th  of  May,  I  preached  for  the  last  time  at 
Wesley  Chapel,  Burg  Street,  and  on  the  following  Sabbath  at 
Eondebosch,  to  crowded  and  attentive  congregations.  These 
duties  were  performed  under  much  bodily  weakness ;  but  I  was 
thankful  to  be  able  to  lift  my  warning  voice  once  more  in  the 
;  sanctuaries  where  I  had  been  endeavouring  faithfully  to  preach 
i,he   Gospel  for  nearly  ten  years,  and  thus  publicly  to  take 


584       PART  HI. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

leave  of   a  people    in  whose    spiritual  welfare    I  felt  deeply 
interested. 

The  following  days  were  spent  in  receiving  the  farewell  visits- 
of  dear  friends,  and  in  completing  our  arrangements  for  our 
homeward  voyage.  On  Tuesday  morning,  the  32nd,  our  friend, 
Mr.  James  Morris,  having  kindly  offered  to  drive  us  in  his- 
covered  conveyance  to  Cape  Town,  we  united  in  prayer  and 
praise  with  a  large  number  of  our  dear  people  who  had  assem- 
bled together  at  our  residence  at  Kondebosch,  and  then  took 
our  departure.  As  we  drove  off,  the  Mission  school  children,, 
with  their  teacher,  Mr.  John  Thorne,  at  their  head,  lined  the 
path,  and  strack  up  a  beautiful  parting  hymn  ;  and  the  last 
sound  we  heard  was  that  of  sweet  infant  voices  chanting  the 
praises  of  God.  On  reaching  the  city,  it  was  already  time  to  go 
on  board  the  mail  steamer.  We  therefore  drove  to  the  wharf  at 
once,wherewe  found  the  Eev. Messrs.  Edwards,  Cameron,  Tindall,- 
Godman,  and  Barber,  with  Messrs.  Smithers,  Davison,  Tonkin, 
Marsh,  and  a  large  number  of  other  friends,  assembled  together 
to  take  an  affectionate  leave  of  us.  A  few  of  these  accompanied 
us  on  board  the  "  Dane,"  and  remained  with  us  till  nearly 
noon,  when  they  also  were  obliged  to  say  "  Good  bye,"  and 
the  anchor  was  weighed,  and  we  steamed  away  from  the  coast 
of  Africa.* 

*  On  our  departiire  from  vSouth  Africa,  as  on  former  occasions,  ■we 
received  much  kindness  from  a  people  who  had  become  endeared  to  us  by 
the  strongest  ties  of  Christian  affection.  A  kind  and  respectful  address  was- 
presented  to  me  previous  to  our  embarkation,  signed  by  about  two  hundred 
of  our  members,  including  all  the  Stewards,  Local  Preachers,  and  Leaders, 
overflowing  vnth  love  and  good  wishes  for  myself  and  Mrs.  Moister,  and 
expressing  earnest  hopes  for  the  recovery  of  our  health,  and  speedy  return 
to  the  Cape.  A  similar  address  was  presented  by  the  Missionaries,  bearing 
the  signature  of  every  brother  in  the  District  who  had  the  opportunity  of 
Joining  in  this  expression  of  esteem  ;  whilst  numerous  communications  came 
from  individual  friends,  teachers,  and  scholars,  both  in  town  and  country. 
Although  I  had  no  doubt  of  the  confidence  and  esteem  of  my  brethren  and 
the  people,  it  was  very  pleasant  to  receive  these  assurances  of  attachment ; 
and  it  would  have  been  in  harmony  with  my  feelings  to  have  placed  upon 
record,  in  these  pages,  some  of  the  documents  alluded  to,  had  space  per- 
mitted, and  had  I  not  wished  to  avoid  the  appearance  of  self- adulation.  Our 
friends  at  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  as  at  other  places,  may,  nevertheless,, 
rest  assured  of  our  undying  affectionate  remembrance. 


CHAP    VIII. — CONCLUDING    OBSERVATIONS.  585 

When  we  had  in  a  measure  recovered  from  the  excitement 
and  fatigue  connected  with  our  embarkation,  and  got  accustomed 
once  more  to  life  on  board  a  ship,  we  experienced  a  sensible 
improvement  in  our  health ;  and  although  the  vessel  was 
crowded  with  passengers  of  diversified  nationalities  and  creeds, 
we  found  them  generally  civil  and  agreeable.  Captain  Hoffman 
and  his  officers  did  every  thing  in  their  power  to  make  all  on 
board  as  comfortable  as  possible,  and  altogether  the  passage 
was  as  pleasant  as  any  one  which  we  had  previously  made.  I 
was  cordially  invited  to  share  in  the  services  of  the  Sabbath 
with  an  Episcopalian  Minister  who  was  on  board ;  and  we  had 
some  profitable  services,  the  fruits  of  which  I  trust  will  appear 
after  many  days.  I  also  collected  together  a  number  of  intelli- 
gent boys,  who  were  passengers,  and,  with  the  consent  of  their 
parents  and  friends,  formed  them  into  a  Bible  Class,  which  I 
met  every  afternoon,  when  the  weather  and  other  circumstances 
would  permit. 

On  the  morning  of  Friday,  the  1st  of  June,  we  made  the 
Island  of  St.  Helena,  the  bold,  rocky,  barren  appearance  of 
which  quite  harmonized  with  the  ideas  which  I  had  formed  of 
it  from  my  boyhood.  After  skirting  the  south-eastern  shore 
for  a  short  distance,  we  rounded  the  point,  and  James  Town, 
the  capital  of  the  island,  burst  suddenly  upon  our  view.  It  is 
situated  in  a  narrow  valley,  with  elevated  rocky  hills  on  either 
side,  the  summits  of  which  are  crowned  with  barracks  and 
fortifications.  After  a  hasty  cup  of  coffee  most  of  the  passengers 
went  on  shore,  and  a  few  of  us  united  and  hired  a  conveyance 
for  a  trip  to  Longwood,  the  place  of  Napoleon's  exile,  about 
four  miles  distant  from  James  Town.  "We  found  a  number  of 
French  artisans  busily  at  work  repairing  the  mansion,  in  accord- 
ance with  an  arrangement  which  had  been  made  with  the 
British  Government.  On  our  return  we  visited  Buonaparte's 
tomb,  which  is  situated  in  a  gentle  hollow  at  some  distance 
below  Longwood.  We  found  the  grave  empty,  the  body  of  the 
Emperor  having  been  removed  to  France  some  time  before. 
On  returning  to  James  Town  we  made  a  few  purchases,  and 
hastened  on  board.  The  mails  having  been  received,  we 
weighed  anchor  about  two  o'clock  p.m.,  and  resumed  our 
homeward  voyage. 


586       PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OP  GOOD  HOPE. 

On  Monday,  the  4th,  we  came  to  the  Island  of  Ascension, 
another  bleak,  barren,  rocky  islet  in  the  Atlantic,  where  the 
steamer  has  to  call  for  the  mail  bags.  It  is  occupied  chiefly  as 
a  naval  depot  and  Government  rendezvous  for  the  Western 
Coast  of  Africa.  We  went  on  shore  for  a  few  hours,  and  in  the 
course  of  our  ramble  inspected  the  public  buildings  and  naval 
hospital,  which  contained  a  number  of  patients.  We  did  not 
find  much  besides  to  interest  us,  and  on  returning  to  the  ship 
we  proceeded  on  our  voyage  soon  after  noon. 

Nothing  worthy  of  special  notice  occurred  during  the  re- 
mainder of  the  passage  till,  on  Wednesday,  the  27th,  all  was 
bustle  and  excitement  among  the  passengers,  as  it  was  expected 
from  the  ship's  reckoning  that  we  should  see  land  during  the 
day.  The  weather  was  somewhat  hazy,  and  we  entered  the 
chops  of  the  Channel  without  sighting  the  Lizard,  or  any  other 
part  of  the  English  coast,  till,  about  three  o'clock  p.m.,  Eddy- 
stone  Lighthouse  burst  upon  our  view  all  at  once  like  magic, 
when  no  one  imagined  we  were  so  near  to  port.  We  soon 
afterwards  received  a  pilot  on  board,  and  entered  the  harbour 
of  Plymouth,  where  we  had  to  land  the  English  mails.  The 
evening  was  stormy,  and  intelligence  was  received  of  many 
ships  having  lately  been  wrecked  in  the  Channel.  This,  to- 
gether with  the  remarks  of  the  pilot  as  to  the  state  and  pro- 
spects of  the  weather,  induced  many  of  the  passengers  to  leave 
the  ship  here,  contrary  to  their  first  intention ;  but  as  to  our- 
selves, we  felt  that  we  could  trust  in  Providence  for  protection 
during  the  remainder  of  the  passage ;  and  about  eight  o'clock 
P.M.  the  steamer  weighed  anchor  and  put  to  sea  again. 

On  the  following  morning,  the  storm  having  subsided,  and 
the  weather  having  become  fine,  we  had  a  beautiful  view  of  the 
coast,  as  we  steamed  through  the  Needles  and  up  the  Solent  and 
Southampton  Waters.  Soon  after  noon  we  entered  Southampton 
dock,  and  once  more  set  our  feet  upon  our  native  shores.  After 
passing  our  luggage  through  the  Custom  House,  and  dining  at 
Davis's  hotel,  I  walked  out  to  Bittern,  and  took  a  part  in  an 
interesting  public  meeting,  along  with  the  Rev.  Messrs.  H.  W. 
Williams  and  J.  Little,  the  respected  Ministers  of  the  South- 
ampton  Circuit.      The  next    day  we  proceeded   to   London; 


CHAP.   VIII. — CONCLUDING    OBSERVATIONS.  587 

and  on  calling  upon  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Hoole,  they  gave  us  a 
cordial  welcome,  on  behalf  of  the  Society,  on  returning  once 
more  to  our  native  land,  and  warmly  congratulated  us  on 
having  been  so  mercifully  preserved  during  so  many  years  of 
arduous  labour  in  the  Mission  field  ;  and  the  inward  response 
of  each  of  our  hearts,  I  believe,  was,  *'  Bless  the  Lord,  0  ray 
soul,  and  forget  not  all  His  benefits." 

CONCLUDING  OBSERVATIONS. 

Although  these  Memorials  of  Missionary  Labour  have  already 
exceeded  the  limits  originally  intended,  I  cannot  bring  them  to 
a  close  without  a  retrospective  glance  at  the  way  which  has 
been  traversed,  and  an  earnest  and  affectionate  appeal  on  the 
important  subject  to  which  they  relate. 

With  regard  to  that  portion  of  the  Mission  field  whicli  has 
last  passed  under  review,  let  me  for  a  moment  call  attention  to 
the  aggregate  results  of  the  labours  of  the  Wesleyan  Missionary 
Society,  so  far  as  they  are  capable  of  being  embraced  in  a 
statistical  estimate.  I  do  most  sincerely  and  very  highly 
appreciate  the  efforts  of  kindred  institutions,  which  keep  the 
same  object  in  view,  and  whose  labours  tend  to  humble  the 
sinner,  exalt  the  Saviour,  and  promote  the  glory  of  God  in  the 
salvation  of  men  ;  but  I  am  best  acquainted  with  the  missionary 
operations  of  that  section  of  the  Christian  church  to  which  I 
belong,  and  it  is  of  those  which  T  now  speak,  whilst  I  wish  God 
speed  to  all  others  who  are  engaged  in  the  same  blessed  work. 

It  is  now  about  fifty  years  since  the  first  Wesleyan  Missionary 
arrived  in  Southern  Africa  under  the  circumstances  already 
(mentioned ;  and  let  any  one  trace  the  history  of  the  respective 
stations  which  have  been  formed,  and  mark  the  gradual  ad- 
vancement of  the  work,  as  here  briefly  sketched,  and  say 
whether  it  has  not  been  a  successful  enterprise.  In  many  a 
once  dark  and  desolate  region  missionary  villages  have  been 
formed.  Christian  schools  established,  congregations  gathered, 
churches  organized,  lands  cultivated,  and  the  people  decently 
clothed,  and  raised  to  the  enjoyment  of  all  the  blessings  of 
civilized  life.     Languages  which  had  been  previously  unwritten 


588       PAET  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

have  been  reduced  to  grammatical  form  ;  and  the  Holy  Scrip- 
tures, as  well  as  school  books  of  various  kinds,  have  been 
translated  into  the  native  dialects  of  the  people.  And,  what  is^ 
better  still,  the  glorious  Gospel  of  the  blessed  God  has  been 
freely  and  faithfully  preached,  in  many  instances  with  soul- 
saving  power,  to  various  tribes  of  natives  inhabiting  the  vast 
continent.  During  the  past  half  century  we  have  reason  to 
believe  that  hundreds  and  thousands  have  passed  away  to  a 
brighter  and  better  world  above,  from  our  respective  stations 
in  South  Africa ;  and  we  have  still  a  great  and  glorious  work  in 
progress.  In  the  five  Districts  into  which  the  country  is 
divided,  we  have  sixty-tUree  Missionaries,  one  hundred  and' 
tliirty-eight  chapels,  three  hundred  and  ffty -nine  other  preaching- 
places,  eight  thousand  three  hundred  and  thirty-seven  church  metn- 
hers,  eleven  thousand  four  hundred  and  fifty -six  scholars  in  the 
Mission  schools,  and  fifty-four  thousand  seven  hundred  and  ninety 
attendants  on  public  worship. 

Missions  so  numerous  and  extensive,  and  carried  on,  in  many 
instances,  in  regions  so  remote  from  the  centres  of  commerce  and 
civilization,  are  necessarily  attended  with  considerable  expense,, 
especially  at  their  commencement,  and  they  have  a  strong  claim 
upon  the  kind  consideration  and  benevolence  of  our  friends  at 
home.  The  Missionary  and  his  family  must  be  furnished  with 
waggons  and  oxen  to  convey  them  and  their  baggage  and  stores 
to  the  scene  of  their  future  labours.  Natives  must  be  hired  to 
assist,  and  supplied  with  food  for  the  journey,  which  frequently 
extends  to  a  distance  of  hundreds  of  miles,  over  roads  which  are 
almost  impassable.  The  ground  selected  for  the  site  of  the  new^ 
station  must  be  cleared,  buildings  erected,  and  land  cultivated 
for  a  future  supply  of  provisions,  and  the  work  sustained  in  all 
its  departments,  for  years  before  much  local  aid  can  be  expected 
towards  its  support.  But  when  the  work  is  fairly  organized,, 
and  the  truths  of  Christianity  are  brought  to  bear  upon  the 
hearts  and  consciences  of  the  people,  they  are  invariably  taught 
the  scriptural  duty  of  contributing  towards  the  support  of  the 
Gospel  according  to  their  ability ;  and  in  proportion  to  the  depth 
and  genuineness  of  the  work  of  grace  upon  their  hearts,  they 
manifest  a  cheerful  readiness  to  discharge  this  obligation.     In. 


CHAP.   VIII. — CONCLUDING    OBSERVATIONS.  589 

addition  to  the  Methodistic  plan  of  weekly,  monthly,  and 
qnarterly  contributions  for  the  general  support  of  the  work  upon 
the  station,  wherever  it  is  practicable  annual  Missionary  Meetings 
are  held,  as  already  stated,  when  the  people,  notwithstanding 
their  general  poverty,  frequently  manifest  a  commendable  spirit 
of  Christian  liberality  in  aid  of  the  funds  of  the  Society  for  the 
spread  of  the  Gospel  throughout  the  world. 

It  is,  moreover,  a  pleasing  fact  that  our  foreign  Auxiliary 
Missionary  Societies  are  in  many  instances  liberally  supported 
not  only  by  converted  natives,  but  also  by  European  colonists, 
who  have  themselves  received  spiritual  benefit  from  our  Missions, 
or  who  desire  thus  to  express  their  views  of  the  value  and 
importance  of  our  labours  to  the  country  in  which  their  lot  is 
cast  in  the  order  of  Divine  Providence.  I  remember,  on  one 
occasion,  a  noble-minded  Christian  gentleman  built  an  elegant 
chapel  at  his  own  expense  at  a  cost  of  nearly  £1,000,  and  pre- 
sented it  to  the  Connexion.  Soon  after  its  completion,  we  held 
our  first  Missionary  Meeting  in  this  beautiful  sanctuary,  when  I 
called  upon  the  donor,  to  invite  him  to  take  the  chair.  This 
honour  he  respectfully  declined,  alleging  that  he  was  "  not  much 
of  a  speaker;"  at  the  same  time  he  kindly  placed  in  my  hand  a 
J5  bank  note  to  drop  in  the  plate,  anonymously,  to  help  the 
collection.  This  he  gave  in  addition  to  his  annual  contribution 
of  £10,  which  appeared  on  the  list.  The  following  year  I 
waited  on  him  again,  when,  on  my  way  to  the  Missionary 
Meeting,  and  he  again  handed  me  something  to  drop  in  the 
plate  for  the  collection.  This  time  it  proved  to  be  a  bank-note 
for  £10.  Time  passed  rapidly  away,  and  on  the  approach  of 
the  third  Missionary  Meeting  in  the  new  chapel  I  called  upon 
my  friend  again,  for  I  desire  never  to  neglect  the  real  friends  of 
Missions,  and  "  he  that  hath  friends  must  show  himself  friendly.'* 
On  this  occasion  my  friend,  in  his  usual  pleasant  way,  handed 
me  a  slip  of  paper  for  the  collection,  which,  on  opening,  I  found 
to  my  surprise,  was  a  cheque  for  £20.  At  the  next  Missionary 
Meeting  the  anonymous  contribution  of  my  friend  to  the  collec- 
tion was  the  noble  sum  of  £50,  which  amount  he  has  given 
repeatedly  since,  in  the  same  quiet  unostentatious  way,  in  testi- 
mony of  his  admiration  of  the  labours  of  the  Wesleyan  Mission- 


590        PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  HOPE. 

ary  Society.  On  aiiotlier  occasion  I  received  from  a  distant 
place  a  contribution  to  the  Mission  fund  enclosed  in  a  package 
which  was  sewed  np  with  special  care.  When  I  had  cut  away 
the  stitches,  and  unfolded  the  various  coverings  of  leather^ 
canvas,  and  paper,  I  found  that  it  contained  the  liberal  sura  of 
JB21,  as  the  offering  of  a  poor  widow.  Prom  various  sources 
the  proceeds  of  the  "  Cape  of  Good  Hope  Auxiliary  Wesleyaa 
Missionary  Society"  for  the  past  year  amounted  to  £665; 
whilst  the  sum  remitted  from  the  South  African  Auxiliaries- 
unitedly  was  £2,470. 

Every  true  friend  of  Christian  Missions  must  rejoice  to  observe- 
the  interest  which  has  been  manifested  of  late  years  by  the 
people  of  this  country  in  Italy,  India,  and  China,  with  their  vast 
populations ;  but  I  have  no  doubt  but  many  will  share  with  me 
in  a  feeling  of  holy  jealousy  lest  by  any  means  our  old  established 
Missions  should  be  neglected.  Our  fears  on  this  subject  are 
enhanced  by  observing  from  the  "Missionary  Notices"  for 
March,  1866,  that  the  Committee  have  been  led,  by  the 
depressed  state  of  the  Society's  funds,  seriously  to  entertain  the 
thought,  not  merely  of  retrenchment,  but  of  actually  abandoning, 
some  portions  of  the  Mission  field,  or  of  handing  them  over  to 
other  Societies.*  Surely  the  friends  of  Missions  at  home  will 
not  allow  these  extreme  measures  to  be  adopted,  but  "  haste  to 
the  rescue  "  with  a  liberality  and  zeal  which  will  warrant  the 
Committee  not  only  to  continue,  but  strengthen,  the  existing- 
Missions,  and  thus  support  the  hands  of  the  noble  band  of  men 
who  are  toiling  in  distant  lands  under  so  many  discouragements. 

Of  all    the  Missions  of   the  Wesleyan  Missionary  Society^ 

*  It  is  satisfactory  to  observe  that  reference  is  now  made  to  the  Missioa- 
aries  on  the  spot,  and  to  tlie  people,  for  their  opinion  before  any  steps  are- 
taken  towards  abandoning  stations  already  occupied,  or  handing  tbem  over 
to  other  Societies ;  and  it  is  hoped  that  the  admonitory  histories  of  our 
Missions  at  Berbice  and  Samoa  will  be  a  sufficient  guard  against  any  com- 
pact being  entered  into  between  the  directors  of  different  Missionary  institu- 
tions in  England  for  the  appropriation  of  distinct  sections  of  the  Mission 
field,  without  reference  to  the  pastors  or  people  most  deeply  interested  in. 
such  arrangements.  The  people  of  Great  Namaqualand  refuse  to  be  trans- 
ferred to  another  Society,  and  nobly  engage  to  do  their  best  to  support  a- ' 
Wesleyan  Missionary. 


CHAP.   VIII. — CONCLUDING   OBSERVATIONS.  591 

throughout  the  widely  extended  sphere  of  its  operations,  none 
have  been  more  successful  than  those  which  have  been  estab- 
lished in  Africa  and  in  the  West  Indies, — countries  ^hich  have 
been  so  remarkably  linked  together  in  the  order  of  Divine 
Providence,  and  to  which  these  Memorials  have  a  special  refer- 
ence. Notwithstanding  the  numerous  difficulties  with  which 
the  Missionaries  have  had  to  contend,  arising  from  Moham- 
medan superstitions  and  pagan  darkness, — from  unhealthy 
climates,  slavery,  human  sacrifices,  and  barbarous  languages,  in 
addition  to  the  desperate  wickedness  and  depravity  of  the  human 
heart, — a  great  and  glorious  work  has  been  accomplished. 
Multitudes  of  the  sable  sons  and  daughters  of  Ham  have  been 
brought  to  a  saving  knowledge  of  the  truth.  Many  have 
finished  their  course  with  joy,  and  have  passed  away  to  a 
brighter  and  a  better  world  above,  and  many  more  are  still 
travelling  in  the  way  to  Zion.  On  the  various  stations  in 
Africa  and  in  the  West  Indies  we  have  now  one  hundred  and 
fifty -two  Missmiaries,  fo2ir  Imndred  and  tJdrty -three  chapels,  five 
hundred  and  forty-eight  other  jpreachmg -places,  sixty  thousand 
church  memlers,  forty  thousand  scholars  in  the  Mission  schools^ 
and  one  hundred  and  ninety  tioo  thousand  attendants  on  public 


Whilst  we  cherish  in  our  hearts  feelings  of  the  liveliest  grati- 
tude to  God  for  this  glorious  extension  of  the  work,  and  bless 
His  holy  name  for  every  sinner  saved  by  grace,  we  must  not 
forget  that  very  much  yet  remains  to  he  done.  Only  the  out- 
posts of  the  enemy's  works  have  been  taken.  The  citadel  of 
Satan  has  yet  to  be  assailed.  Hundreds  and  thousands  and 
millions  of  our  fellow  men  are  still  in  rebellion  against  the 
King  of  kings  and  Lord  of  lords.  Let  all  who  bear  the 
Christian  name  buckle  on  their  armour  afresh,  and  come  up  to 
the  help  of  the  Lord  against  the  mighty.  Let  the  young  men 
and  maidens  of  this  highly  favoured  land  consecrate  themselves 
to  the  glorious  missionary  enterprise,  to  labour  at  home  or 
abroad,  as  the  Lord  may  call  them,  in  pulling  down  the  strong 
holds  of  sin  and  Satan.  Let  Christian  parents  freely  give  up 
their  children  for  this  blessed  work.  Let  all  be  more  earnest  in 
prayer,  sympathy,  and  benevolence,  opening  their  hearts  and 


592       PART  III. — THE  CAPE  OF  GOOD  MOPE. 

their  hands  freely  to  sustain  the  enterprise  in  a  manner  com- 
mensurate with  its  unspeakable  importance,  and  it  will  prosper. 
Africa  and  the  West  Indies  will  be  fully  evangelized,  and 
*'  Ethiopia  shall  stretch  out  her  hands  unto  God."  Italy,  India, 
and  China,  with  their  teeming  millions  of  people,  will  be 
gathered  into  the  fold  of  Christ.  The  distant  isles  of  the  sea 
which  still  wait  for  God's  law  will  receive  the  truth ;  and  "  all 
shall  know  the  Lord,  from  the  least  unto  the  greatest ;"  for  the 
mouth  of  the  Lord  hath  spoken  it. 

If  you  and  I,  dear  reader,  on  thus  parting  company,  should 
never  meet  again  in  this  world,  may  we  meet  in  the  "  better 
country,"  and  form  a  part  of  that  "  great  multitude  which  no 
man  can  number,  of  all  nations,  and  kindreds,  and  people,  and 
tongues;  "  and  may  it  then  appear  that  we  have  done  some- 
thing towards  hastening  the  grand  consummation  of  the 
missionary  enterprise,  when  genuine  converts  to  the  faith  of  the 
Gospel  shall  "  come  from  the  east,,  and  from  the  west,  and 
from  the  north,  and  from  the  south,  and  sit  down  with  Abra- 
ham, Isaac,  and  Jacob,  in  the  kingdom  of  God." 

"  0  for  a  trumpet  voice, 

Ou  all  the  world  to  call ! 
To  Lid  their  hearts  rejoice 

In  Him  who  died  for  all ! 
For  all  my  Lord  was  crucified. 
For  all,  for  all,  my  Saviour  died.** 


LONDON 

PKINTED   BY   WILLIAM   NICHOLS, 

46,    HOXTON   SQUARE. 


Prmceion  Theologic.il  ^,'i'J'rM7|uii'Vil||| 


"1012  01059  8110 


Date  Due 

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